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Burley_Boy
11-09-2005, 08:34 PM
The engine is a Yammie 40 2stroke.
Lower seal was gone so the lower bearing needs replacing. I'm going to replace both the top and the bottom bearings and wonder whether these are supposed to be packed full of grease or are they part of the self lubricationg system? Anyone know?

Also once I cracked the block apart I could see traces of silicone residue (there is no gasket between the halves, should I use the grey RTV high temp silicone I have or the permatex aircraft gasket goo stuff whatever its called.. ie the brown gook that does not set?

Your thoughts are appreciated.

Thud
11-09-2005, 08:46 PM
Hey BB,
I rebuilt a 60HP rude earlier in the year. Can't remember if I packed the bearings or not but don't think so.
As for the gasket, Loctite 518 was reccommended to me and has done the job so far.
Best advise I can offer is to check out your library for a manual and read up. It will give you all the torque settings etc as well.
Also found iboats.com very helpfull.

Cheers,
Tim..

Angla
11-09-2005, 10:59 PM
No experience here on marine motors but RACQ told me once to not use silicone ever in an engine bay of a car as the acetone will destroy sensors of any kind in the vacinity as it eats the surface that the sensor uses for detection.

Angla

FNQCairns
12-09-2005, 06:38 AM
Burley boy use neither of those you mentioned anywhere on the engine esp the silicon.
Use Loctite #518 on the machine matched pairs or grab an overpriced tube of the same stuff recommended by any of the marine engine manufacturers for the same job, needs to be a gel-seal, whatever you do dont scrimp or take a shortcut here, not that I think you would.

That aviation goo does go hard and brittle just needs a bit of time and heat. Use only grease on any around the carbs/inlet.
No need to pack that bearing but I guess it wouldn't hurt? If you do, do it lightly. Anywhere inside your favorite 2 stroke oil will be fine as the startup lubricant (except new needle bearings)+ 25 to 1 in the fuel for a little while, but probably not really needed in your situation.

I understand they lube themselves, a small amount of oil is designed to escape/feed through to it while running.
Been using 100/1? #::) These things just happen anyway.

Good luck with it, it's a buzz when finished and started for the first time. I have only rebuilt a few over the years, so dont take what I said as gospel. cheers fnq

Spaniard_King
12-09-2005, 07:40 AM
Burley Boy,

Lube all the bearing parts with straight outboard oil and as stated above use Loctite 518 on the matting halves of the block.

Your a Goldy dweller arn't ya?? Gimme a call on 0400008507 I could slip around 1 afternoon and run me eye over it if ya like

Garry

Burley_Boy
12-09-2005, 08:44 AM
You guys are great! Loctite 518 it is & I won't grease the bearings.
Thanks Garry appreciate the offer and yes I'll give you a call for a chat in any case, I'm on the north end and I think you're on the south.

Angla thanks for the heads up there, I think the substance that attacks the surfaces you're referring to is actually not acetone but acetic acid, its the acrid smelling stuff that you smell when you open up a tube. There are plenty of silicones that don't attack the surface but I agree if unsure don't use it (my mistake years ago was using it in the fuel system.... big mistake as it breaks down!)

Bosunsmate
12-09-2005, 09:10 AM
Send a message to the guys at Mastertech via this link

http://bbs.cartserver.com/bbs/a/1655/index.cgi

You will get the right answer......also will tel you to buy a manual but hey..

Good luck