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View Full Version : Removing Rusty Bolts From The Trailer.



madman1
08-12-2005, 03:24 PM
The knobs from where I bought my precious Stacer 16 months ago matched it up with a trailer from (who will remain nameless) with un galvanised bolts. The rollers weren't set correctly and are now rusted in place.

How do I remove these pesky bolts in the easiest way possible.

I know I have to go to the ramp and launch the boat. Question is do I smash the bolts off with a hammer or take the trailer home (while someone is taking the boat for a spin and dropping some pots) and attack the trailer with a grinder.

All suggestions appreciated.

Sunday is the day.

Cheers



Mark

bungie
08-12-2005, 03:32 PM
Try using a small gas bottle to heat them up first, not red hot just hot to touch. then try undoing them. If not then it might just be the grinder.

blaze
08-12-2005, 04:19 PM
DONT TRY AND UNDO THE BOLTS WHEN HOT. when you try to undo them hot the threads can bind up and it is then worse than a cross threaded bolt.
The way to do it is to get them as hot as you can (prefered red hot) and then quickly quench them with water, they may even free up to the point of hand tight.
The reason this works is
1 - if the bolt is heated it will expand (only slightly) and stretched the nut and when quenched the nut and bolt shrink leaving the nut slightly stretched.
2 - when heated and quenched it will crack the rust due to the above reason.
you may need to repeat the procedeure a couple of times
cheers
blaze

ShaneJ
08-12-2005, 04:34 PM
Mark, if you need a hand I might be able to help you out. Either by minding your boat, or dragging your trailer to my place(using my car) and cutting the bolts off.

gavsgonefishing
08-12-2005, 05:46 PM
grinder, replace the bolts easy

sempre
08-12-2005, 05:52 PM
They will or should break off pretty easy , just break em off.

Mantaray
08-12-2005, 06:12 PM
un galvanised bolts

un believable how some dealers will cut corners! bad mistake!

Synergy
08-12-2005, 06:31 PM
Madman
Try Yeild it is a Chmsearch product which you should be able to get from and industrial product supplier, it hasn't failed me yet.

Kiktz
08-12-2005, 06:35 PM
Drill'em out thats what I did and it made a lil hard work but just had
bolts to replace at the end of the day

Mantaray
08-12-2005, 06:36 PM
Madman
Try Yeild it is a Chmsearch product which you should be able to get from and industrial product supplier, it hasn't failed me yet.

so what's the problem with stainless bolts? stainless roller pins? you get what you pay for!

Spaniard_King
08-12-2005, 06:46 PM
If you change the bolts and you don't replace them with the equivalent of what the manufacturer has used you may find if you have an accident your insurance is void.

Stainless 304 or 316 will likely void it as well. You will find the bolts the manufacutrrer has used are High tensile.

Garry

Mantaray
08-12-2005, 07:08 PM
You will find the bolts the manufacutrrer has used are High tensile.

Garry

Would that be right?

ShaneJ
08-12-2005, 07:13 PM
You will find the bolts the manufacutrrer has used are High tensile.

Garry

Would that be right?


Probably! Stainless is weak as.

Spaniard_King
08-12-2005, 07:13 PM
Thank You Shane ;)

Garry

Mantaray
08-12-2005, 07:14 PM
lets take this a step further! are you saying trailer manufacturers are using sae grade 5/8 or class 8.8 / 10.9 bolts and pins in their trailers?

propdinger
08-12-2005, 07:20 PM
i would go the heat never fails if done right
have done a fair few trailers and never had one that wouldnt undo

Whats_a_fish
08-12-2005, 07:55 PM
Hi i work for a country shire and we do not use stainles because they tend to bind and are weaker then ordinary bolts. Use a hi tensile and paint then after you put them in, also to make them easier to remove smother the thread and where they go through with never seize. As you trailer is galvo and the rollers ar plastic you do not want heat there or a grinder as you will remove the surface protection so use a nut splitter and a rattlegun if you have one. The easiest way to remove nuts WITHOuT damge to surounding areas. At work we use oxy and sledge hammer for most stuff but that is not suitable for you. If they do not come out then use a punch or weld a nut to the head and use a slide hammer.
Pm me if you need more help or send pics and i will try to advise.

Mr__Bean
08-12-2005, 08:04 PM
G'Day Mark,

I am with propdinger and the heat.

But first, what are the bolts going into?

Are they nuts that are welded in position, or are they captive nuts behind a mounting plate?

If the nuts are captive you can afford to be fairly rough and then replace them.




Second point, drop the boat off on some tyres at home, much safer.

I always drop mine off when working on the trailer, and it is realy easy to do.

First back up towards a tree or similar and place a rope around the tree and around the engine.

Position a couple of tyres under the transom allowing a bit for forward movement to take out the slack in the rope. Then let out about 300mm on the winch cable and remove the safety chain on the winch (keep the cable connected to the boat). Hop in your car and creep forward until you have moved the boat back that 300mm.

Get out and check the tyres and if OK let out another 300mm of cable, and move forward slowly again, check again and when forward enough place a couple of tyres each side to hold her straight.

I continue this way until it is off the trailer and safely sitting on the tyres.

To put it back on you disconnect the trailer from the car and wheel it up under the bow, connect the cable and wicnh the trailer back in under the boat, simple.

I used to take my 5,65 fibreglass half cabin off this way all the time and now do the same with the 8 metre platey, quite safe just gotta watch your tranducers etc.

- Darren

ShaneJ
09-12-2005, 08:10 AM
I think Mark(the original poster) is NOT talking about the pins that go through the rollers! I do beleive that he is talking about the bolts holding the roller assembly to the trailer?
Using stainless for the pins in the center of the roller would be fine I guess, but I would highly reccomend that you dont use stainless bolts to anything loaded to the trailer.
Although this information is from a person with a Civil Engineering Degree, they probably know nothing ::)

Sportfish_5
09-12-2005, 08:12 AM
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials.aspx

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx

Mr__Bean
09-12-2005, 09:30 AM
Can I add some clarity from some of those sitting on the side of this post.......No-one gives a shit about what someone elses bolts are made of.

Mark has bolts that are rusted in...that's it......full stop.......

Also, your dicks are most likely all the same length........ and you can most probably all piss the same length.

- Darren

MIKOS
09-12-2005, 10:31 AM
Madman,

Definatly go the angle grinder.

Also check and grease you wheelnuts if you havent already because i would say if the dealer has cut a corner by putting the wrong bolts on he has also cut corners elsewhere.

Cheers

MIKOS ;)

madman1
09-12-2005, 10:56 AM
[quote author=Mr__Bean link=1134019443/15#18 date=1134036242]G'Day Mark,

I am with propdinger and the heat.

But first, what are the bolts going into?

Are they nuts that are welded in position, or are they captive nuts behind a mounting plate?

If the nuts are captive you can afford to be fairly rough and then replace them.



Good point Darren, I will have to check that out tonight.

Mantaray

I can see where you are coming from. I have no idea as to steel strenghts etc but will probably heat the buggers up, splash them with cold beer or water and replace them with what was originally there or the closest possible. To hopefully prolong the effects I will be lathering those rustable bolts on trailer grease on a regular basis.

Thanks for all of the input guys it has all been taken on board.

ShaneJ where are you located. I was thinking of dropping a few crab pots in Cabbage Tree Creek at Shorncliffe. There might be a few getting around.

Thanks again


Mark

ShaneJ
09-12-2005, 11:00 AM
I'm just down the road at Boondall :D

madman1
09-12-2005, 11:09 AM
I'll bring the beers if you are still keen!

ShaneJ
09-12-2005, 11:15 AM
Yeah mate, i'll help you out. What time are you looking at doing this?
At the moment I have plans of fishing the reef up the point of Redcliffe early Sunday morning, but i'll be home by 8:30 or there abouts.

madman1
09-12-2005, 12:08 PM
I am shipping the wife and kids off to Yepoon for a week departing 0830 @ Brisbane Airport. How's round 9.30 - 10.00 sound?

ShaneJ
09-12-2005, 12:15 PM
Sounds good to me mate.

ol_bob
09-12-2005, 12:32 PM
cold chisel works good too.. if any of you know anything about metallurgy you would know that stainless can be as strong as grade8.8 or what ever just the diameter will be bigger and the fact that stainless work hardens and leads to metal fatigue..... ever heard of never sieze goes good on mild steel

stainless is safe to use on pins,rollers etc but dont use it on bolts... also if stainless steel is in contact with mild steel it will rust/corrode as quick as mild steel would....

find ya self a welder the less bolts the better stick with mild steel 8.8 bolts and change em every couple seasons as part of your preventative maintenance program....

revs57
09-12-2005, 03:02 PM
Mark,

Drink the Beer...splash the water...rememeber drink the BEER, splash the WATER

Got it!!! ;)

All the best with the job

Cheers

Rhys

redspeckle
09-12-2005, 05:10 PM
From propdinger
I would go the heat never fails if done right
have done a fair few trailers and never had one that wouldnt undo

yep I have one that wouldn't undo :o heat up frist still wouldn't move end up getting the welder out and welded a piece of steel on it then big hammer hitting it then it to started undoing it that finally work for me [smiley=happy.gif] I didn't have a [smiley=beer.gif] after had a Bourbon instead

Work on several trailers myself there's always one you come across that going to stubborn for you

Mitch

Tracker
09-12-2005, 08:41 PM
mitch,
then you get the gas axe out 10 outo10 every time.

Mr__Bean
12-12-2005, 11:17 AM
Sniff......Sniff, Sniff...................Sniff..................... .....

Hmmm, smells like the cleaners have been in.....

- Darren

Mantaray
12-12-2005, 12:44 PM
Step 1 remove bolts, covered

Step 2 What you going to put back? more of the same? and if Stainless is considered unsuitable for this application then can we have some actual supporting figures to indicate why not!

What's the rational behind mild steel un galvanized bolts in the first place, is it cost?

madman1
12-12-2005, 12:58 PM
I think you are right Darren. Didn't get a chance to fix the trailer over the weekend. I was still recovering from the "snip - snip".

All good now. Will attack it on Thursday after the Hutchies trip.