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Jeff_In_Crestmead
11-12-2005, 11:03 PM
Hi Folks

I need to replace my bearings and I'm unsure of the correct placement in the hub. I have been through two bearings and I want to make I'm not stuffing it up.

This is the axle type

Jeff_In_Crestmead
11-12-2005, 11:06 PM
This is the wheel type - the bearings fit on the ends

Jeff_In_Crestmead
11-12-2005, 11:11 PM
Should the big goe this way - Ring - Bearing- End cap...

Jeff_In_Crestmead
11-12-2005, 11:12 PM
Or this this way - Bearing - Ring - End Cap

Jeff_In_Crestmead
11-12-2005, 11:15 PM
As to the other side (where the nut screws on) Ring - Bearing Washer Nut

Jeff_In_Crestmead
11-12-2005, 11:18 PM
Or this way - Bearing - Ring Washer - Nut

Any help would be great :)

phewy
11-12-2005, 11:23 PM
First and third pics (of bearings). That is one weird wheel/hub setup there :o

Jeff_In_Crestmead
11-12-2005, 11:29 PM
Thanks Phewy - it is a homemade boat trailer I bought for my flat bottom boat that the guy couldn't sell, light truck setup I was told, but built like a brick s***house!

Sportfish_5
11-12-2005, 11:35 PM
Only cross section I could find -



Cheers

Greg

Mr__Bean
12-12-2005, 05:01 AM
I have been through two bearings and I want to make I'm not stuffing it up.



G'Day Rybka,

The rear seal shown in your picture is the typical automotive seal and is a general purpose dust seal that holds in the grease, they are not as good as the marine seals that are available.

I would only ever use marine seals which have much better sealing to prevent water being drawn into the bearings when you dunk the trailer.

The marine seals differ in that they have a large rubber ring that fits directly (snug) on the axle. The rubber ring has multiple sealing surfaces on the outside that run inside a pressed stainless steel cup that is tapped into place inside the wheel hub (Piccy below). If you do use the marine seals just remember to grease the outer surface of the rubber before installing the hub.

- Darren

http://www.whitworths.com.au/products/91066_lg.jpg

HarryO
12-12-2005, 01:04 PM
G'day Rybka,

Phewy right, 1st & 3rd pickys.

Darrens right too, using the PBR 2 pce waterproof seal will
make the bearings last a lot longer...

Main concern, tho, is to make sure the cup (tapered ring)
is pressed firmly and evenly all the way in.

The cones, (tapered roller bearings) is FULLY PACKED with
hi-temp hi-pressure grease suitable for wheel bearings..

The hub cavity should also be cleaned & well greased,
and don't load (overtighten) the nut too much.

SLIGHTLY loose is better than too tight..

When I replace the hub (large) nut, I turn it finger tight until
firm, then with a spanner load it 1/2 to 3/4 turn,
then back it off, and I test it with a flat bladed screw driver,
using a twisting motion try to slide the large washer thats
under the nut side to side, if you can't move this washer
with this method, then the nuts too tight...

Harry..

Cruiser
12-12-2005, 05:21 PM
Rybka, the above responses are correct... just remember the cups will (or should be) a tight fit in the hub. You will need either a press or a big hammer with a suitable drift to install them. Install the cups on both sides before doing anything else.

Phewy, those wheels look like the original alloy wheels fitted to Tinka trailers. They had the hub and wheel as one piece and the hub cap was bolted on with the five wheel nuts.

Chris.

Jeff_In_Crestmead
12-12-2005, 08:00 PM
Hey everyone

Thanks for all the help!! I'm most appreciative - even a diagram :o

You folks are the best - I'm gonna have to get a couple of Ausfish stickers now, and keep an eye out on the forum to see if I can help someone.

Thanks again

Jeff

phewy
12-12-2005, 08:09 PM
Phewy, those wheels look like the original alloy wheels fitted to Tinka trailers. #They had the hub and wheel as one piece and the hub cap was bolted on with the five wheel nuts.

Chris.
Thanks chris...makes it an awful job just to change a flat :'(

Mr__Bean
12-12-2005, 08:15 PM
Hey everyone

Thanks for all the help!! I'm most appreciative



Jeff,

You made it easy for us to assist as you asked clear and concise questions and added photo's to clarify the detail.

Sometimes the hardest part on a forum is understanding peoples concerns.

- Darren

P.S. #I wonder if the split pin should be cad plated mild steel, or whether it should be stainless?????? # # # #
# # # #Oh stop it!!!!!!!!!

blaze
12-12-2005, 08:45 PM
the answer to your queston Bean is








stayed tuned

ol_bob
13-12-2005, 11:58 AM
set the end float of ya bearings with a dial indicator to .001" to .000" dont preload them or leave them any looser or premature failure will result...the configuration of these bearings is called "THRUST" im still perplexed why trailer manufacturers run THRUST bearings and not RADIAL/AXIAL type my understanding that 99,9% of the load is radial/axial and not end thrust......
all other info supplied to you is true make sure ya pack em correctly with a clay/marine grease lubricate ya lip seals with grease before ya fit them std split pins are fine there is that much grease in there if they start rusting ya gunna have contaminated bearings anyway leading to you seeing ya boat on the deck or ya trailer tyre overtaking ya.

gawby
13-12-2005, 06:30 PM
Let me tell you that you have received some of the best advise for fixing your wheels. You couldnt get better out of a manual.
Graeme

HarryO
13-12-2005, 07:41 PM
G'day All


Ol Bob... Not sure what you mean, tapered rollers are
designed to handle radial loads very well on wheels up to
a set rolling diameter.

The Tinka hub has the inner and outer races set well apart,
if you set the tapered rollers at their fitted distance, and drew a
line up from the angled faces they would intersect at approx
the outside rolling diameter of the 13' wheel that these
originally came fitted with.
(and they also handle thrust very well)

Gotta agree with your set adjustment, but remember that not
everyone has a dial gauge in their garage, let alone knows
how to use one properly.

I've serviced hundreds (not kidding) of car/trailer bearings in my time,
have ALWAYS given each set a slight preload, and have
NEVER had a set prematurely fail.....

Fitting procedure from FORD recommends front wheel bearings
on the EA thru to ED Falcons be preloaded a whopping 3/4
of a turn to AVOID premature failure..

I didn't say to set the bearings loose, rather SLIGHTLY LOOSE
is BETTER than TOO TIGHT...

Must add too, that I"ve never used bearings made in China
and the like, we were stockists of Timken, Nachi, Koyo, SKF,
and NTN...

Clay based grease is also not up to specs these days,
Most car manufacturers ceased using clay based product
in the mid-late 90's...

They use hi-temp lithium based translucent type product when
servicing late model vehicles now.

Don't mean to disrespect your post, but I thought I'd clarify
my position..

Regards, Harry.

Jeff_In_Crestmead
13-12-2005, 08:46 PM
Wow - thanks Bob and Harry for the advice. Harry's right - I have NO idea on what the dial thingy is, I was just going to set the bearings to the ridges in the wheel hub then pack it with marine grease, screw the nut back on and go fishing ;D

Should I be worried with this plan? I'm palnning on getting the bearings from Bias - are these good enough?

HarryO
13-12-2005, 10:40 PM
G'day Jeff...


Make sure that the bearings are made in Australia, or
Japan, Germany, NewZealand, USA, etc... U get my drift?

The cheap ones have a very high failure rate...

All four bearings have to be TOTALLY, FULLY packed with grease,
if doing this by hand, should take you 10-15 minutes each.
That is, every cavity around the little rollers should be chock
full of grease... its a messy job but its gotta be done..

alternatively, you can buy a bearing packer from repco, etc,
for 'round $20-$30, but you'll still need a grease gun.

Good Luck... Harry.

rajawolf
14-12-2005, 12:10 PM
I had the same setup on my tinka trailer ...I changed to 13 inch wheels with Galv hubs. Put the old ones away in the garage.

ol_bob
14-12-2005, 02:18 PM
Harry,
probably didnt explain myself to well there, hope this is clearer what i meant was I would of thought that perhaps single deep groove ball bearings would of been better for trailers that tapered roller bearing as 99.9% of the load on a trailer is rotating load (radial) and 5/8 off @#$% all sideways load, must be some reason for it...
I work for a large mining company and i work on a lot of rotating machinery and have had a fair exposure to bearings of all types so it was really just an idea dont know if ya have any theory to why they use tapered roller bearings.

p.s. no disrespect taken always hungry for knowledge so any input is good input

brooker
14-12-2005, 04:07 PM
Make sure the surface on the axle where the seal will be running is free of any rust or score marks (may need to clean around the axle with some emery cloth).Dont forget to put a little grease around the seal lip when you instal the wheel.
Recently fitted Dura Hubs (oil filled) to the trailer, I haven't clocked up enough K's yet to make a comparison to the grease filled hubs.I like the idea of the clear window in the hub for checking oil level.


Cheers
Gav

Whats_a_fish
14-12-2005, 05:03 PM
What ever you get from the shop for the split pin as it will be in grease.
You can get a marine grease for trailer hubs.
when reversing into the water get some one to tell you BEFORE the centre of you wheels are under water and pause for a min to cool the hubs. This will mean tha your hubs are not cooling whilst under water and sucking in water because the pressure has dropped. This also applies to diff on 4wd's as they have a breather on top.

HarryO
14-12-2005, 05:46 PM
Hi ol-bob,

no worries at all, mate...

I can tend to predicate a bit at at times, I'm glad you
didn't take me the wrong way...

The sideways load on car/trailer bearings is significant,
and taper rollers do a great job on smaller/lighter set-ups,
and should only be used on trailers with wheel diameters
up to 14'' only.

Any larger and its recommended to go to parallel ball bearing
type bearings as you said.. (landcruiser/patrol wheels)

The common set-up uses holden LM67048 for the inners,
and LM11949 for the outers, rated to axle weights of approx
1000kgs, by up grading the outer to a ford LM11749 (I think)
increases the capacity to 1200kgs. #(single axle trailer)

For heavier capacities while retaining the single axle,
upgrading to landcruiser bearings (parallel ball bearings)
MUST be used....

Obviously, when tandem axles are fitted, capacities are doubled
as the load is halved.

See, the medication hasn't affected me too badly, yet. # #;D # ;D # # :o

Harry..