Recommendations for Boat Trailers Please

[Smelly]

I would like some recommendations on two things:

1) What to consider when buying a trailer
2) Brand name and model of trailer to suit a 4.5m Ally Craft Tank (320kgs) and 50 HP Yamaha (88kgs) and equipment (about 50kgs)
3) Whether or not I require brakes

Much appreciated

[toymod]

you need brakes 750kg and over, but remember all your gear fuel etc that you put into it etc. Where abouts are you? I just went through the same process of buying a new trailer mine fell apart when i was getting new bearings done at the mechanic :'( (which was bloody lucky). pm me and I will be happy to send you some info on were I got mine at a very good price (saved me over a $800), and I am more than happy with it.

Hope I was some help. ;D

[Smelly]

Many thanks Mate (from PM)..

What does your bro. think of the Ally hulls anyway?

SO, what I should be lookign for is a trailer with skids?

How do skids differ from multi-rollers?

To confirm - is it always better to get a trailer bigger than the hull (if so, by what minimum length)?

You mentioned 4.8m for the 4.5m hull (Ally Craft) in this case...

I do have a 4WD and maybe take it off-road sometimes - if so, what considerations should I take on-board for off-road trailer bits?

Also, should I be considering tilt trailer as well? Is it worht the extra expense for the tilt?

And, what size wheels and suspension type should I consider?

Whre is the ideal place for trailer lights to sit?

What is the best type of sealed trailer light set to consider (bearing in mind water ingress and visibility for tailing drivers)?



Smelly!

[toymod]

My brother thinks they are good (almost as smooth as my haines) now that he has fitted the bennet trim tabs. These changed the boat hugely we were disapointed in her before but now ;D. This boat was a custom 1 off from the factory as one of a mates works there it is a litle different from standard.

Basicly you want keel rollers and skids that suport your boat (when you phone around they will ask you what the trailer is for). Normally the manufators make the basic frame and have them sitting there ready for fit out. So for instance if you want one for fibreglass they will add rollers instead of skids.

Skids differ from the rmulti rollerd due o the fact they "distribute" the weight of the boat more evenly over the hull than rollers do. This is done because the aluminium will bend where the roller meets the boats causing damage to the hull and eventualy failer. Fibreglass is a "stronger" material that can handle point loads better, but you can have a combination of both of you want this will make it even easier to launch and retreive you boat (but i doubt if you will need it).

Well there is no minium length to it, people buy the same size trailer as there boats everyday. My boat is 4.75m long but i opted for the 5.1 as this was the same size as my old one (and my mechanic recomender it as well) When I was getting quotes everyone quoted me on the 4.8 so it will fit but as I said your boat sits closer to your car which can be a problem off raod. I also find it is easier to reverse with the longer draw bar, plus you dont have to put your car in the water at boat ramps and when beach launching is a bit safer. So there is alot of good points to this and its normaly only a couple of bucks dearer.

If you go "extreme" of raod you can by a hitch that goes in better angles, I have never required this and I have taken my old trailer through a bit with no fuss. You wont need any thing else just wash it down.

I wouldnt bother never had one (tilt), your boat is light enough to winch on easily enough, my mates boat had one and he never used it either.

Standard size suspension will be fine 13 inch wheels as well, but spend a few extra bucks and get the alloys they cost me an extra 30 each and that was for the painted ones ;D Make sure the suspension and brake(if the trailer has it) system are all galvanized I think nearly everyones is these days (with the amount you invest in a trailer you want it to last as long as possible)

I had on my ld tinka just run of the mill lights and they worked fine but I opted for led lights on this one $100 extra and wow these babies work great very bright and no worries about blown lights so this would be your best bet.

You will find that the lights are built on the trailer.

Any more help dont hesitate to contact me

[Smelly]

Many thanks.

Some really subtle and important hints there..

Re: Lights - did you have these LED lights fitted on a brace above the boat trailer or at wheel level?

What is a hitch? Where does it fit?

What is a top winch brand you would recommend?

What are bennet trim tabs and where are fitted to hull?

Why was your brother disappointed with it's performance prior to fitment of tabs?

Is your brother's 6.1 hull design of bottom similar tothe 4.5 Tank?

Do skids lie on the outer (either side of keel) on the hull?

How many keel rollers hould I ask for (Tank length = 4.5m)?

Smelly

[toymod]

My lights are fittede at wheel level (standard place) havent had an issue with this spot in the last trailer or this one (owned a boat now for 4 years).

In regards to the hitch they go inplace of your normal hitch on the trailer, trailer supliers will know where to get them from.

I have a standard winch but I changed it to the seat belt material rope instead of the wire rope ($10) but from reading through here people recomend I think its called super rope its wire rope with plastic coting. The winch brand is alko they seem to be big they made the hitch as well on the trailer and also my brothers redco has an alko as well (sounds a bit like me ;D)

The hull was porpasing and from that loved to dig the nose in on the 3-4th "bounce" resulting in a bit of a crappy ride (he paid over $50000) for it so you can understand why he was a bit pissed. But that said the bennets have made a huge difference. Not to sure I would not think thay where the same hull his is the 6.1 may be similar in design?

The keel rollers are down the centre of the trailer these suport your keel of your boat and take most of the wieght the skids suport your sides of your boat but they still take weight.

I will atach some photos for you this may help a bit

[toymod]

Hope this helps

Anymore help dont hesitate to contact me ;)

[toymod]

trailer

[toymod]

trailer

[toymod]

trailer

[Smelly]

Cheers.

Many thanks..

[Smelly]

What are bennet trim tabs and where are fitted to hull?

50k alot of money for a boat!

[toymod]

Have a look at this pare its the bennets page there are plenty of other brands but these are supose to be the best http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/tabsdo.htm

[Smelly]

Way Cool!

Which model did your brother choose - just to give me some perspective?

Thanks

Smelly

[fishingrod]

I would like some recommendations on two things:

1) What to consider when buying a trailer
2) Brand name and model of trailer to suit a 4.5m Ally Craft Tank (320kgs) and 50 HP Yamaha (88kgs) and equipment (about 50kgs)
3) Whether or not I require brakes

Much appreciated




If you choose to go one length bigger in trailer you "may" find tha the suspension is too stiff for your rig and it gets bone jarred on the bumps. So if you spec a longer trailer, #ask them what the spring capacity is as they might be able to put the springs in from the next model down (but they may have to de-rate the max load capacity)

Go for brakes if you can afford it. Most states have a 750kg rule (unless the car manufacturer states a lower figure). Even if you are under 750kg it will stop better in emergencies. Its not just your boat that gets damaged in a accident, its your family too.

Alloy boats normally use the skid type trailers as already stated. You could consider upgrading to double keel rollers too. Some people say they are a over kill. On a boat your size it will probably have 2 or 3 keel rolers (or 4/6 if you get the doubles) and the skids near the back of the boat.

The LED lights mentioned are good, but add to the price.

Things like double safety chains could be optioned up too. I know its only a light rig, but if your car as 2 chain points why not use them #;D

On my rig ive got a safety chain from the boats bow eye running backwards at a 45 deg angle to the trailer. You could fit a turn buckle to this to tension it slightly. The idea is if you have to hit the brakes very hard the U-bolts on the winch post are taking all the load. This is a extra back up and would not cost much (but they would have to build a trailer for you rather than use stock frames.

Ive liked the looks of the sea bears "liquid" bearing lublication systems. The bearings (hub) is actually filled with oil so the bearings get 100% lubrication all the time and there is less chance of water ingress. I think they have a see thru bit so you can check the colour of the oil. If you are doing serious long distance stuff these may be a good option too.

Paying a bit extra for the white wheels can change the whole visual profile of your rig too, Its gotta look good in your front yard #:P

[Smelly]

More excellent tips. Thanks FishingRod!


Fishingrod -- what length of trailer would you recommend I use for a 4.55m boat?

All -- what are some reputable trailer suppliers/manufacturers in Melbourne?

[fishingrod]

I slightly beg to differ with the last post, 750 and under use the same springs to my knowledge 4 leaf spring the difference is in the draw bar size (in most cases) have a look here at the site below. WSith the increase of steel sizes it will be heavier so in fact this is the opposite theory of the last past it will smooth it out!


Fair call...... Im not sure what variations the springs come in.
Ive got 6 leafs at the moment. I used to have 5 but after they sagged one one side after 7 years the trailer shop suggested i go to 6 leaf.

Ive noticed that some brands of new trailers (EG Boeing) have a single heavy duty leaf rated at 1400kg. Im not that familiar with the smaller trailers.

Back to SMELLYS QUESTION.
Buying a trailer is not that hard, as long as you have some idea (which you should now ::)) Talk to the manufacturers direct. Some sell direct to the public or just phone them for advice once you have picked the trailer you want from a dealer. They know their stuff, its what they do. Take their advice. If they spin you some bullsh*t then go somewhere else.

It wouldnt hurt to measure the centreline legth of your hull from bow to stern. Dont included any bow rollers or steps or pods. Just the part that needs to touch the trailer. Also take a measurement from the bow eye (where the winch cable hooks to the hull) to the stern.

If you have a stationwagon or 4wd with a opening tailgate it may hit against the winch post if you have a trailer that is only just long enough for your boat. IE the winch will be as far forward as possible. In this case you might want to opt for a longer trailer ? In my previous 4x4 the height of the trailer coupling limited far far i could open the tailgate with the trailer on, so the winch post did not matter.

Also if the trailer is too short it can be a squash (or impossible) to fit a wind up jockey wheel as their is no space to put it and turn the handle without hitting the hull. This is extreme but i have seen it once.

Considering your boat is pretty short, make sure the trailer you get isnt really high. Or you will have to reverse too deep at the ramp. Occasionally you see some trailers that have flat frame and horizontal cross beams (left to right) and the boat sits on top of the trailer. Most other trailers have V shaped beams running L to R so the boat sits lower "in" the trailer and not on top it (if that makes sense)

[Smelly]

Indeed...

All this important info. is really handy and will go a long way to help me decide on what I want for my new rig. Hopefully, it will assist others..as well


Thanks for the tips! ;D ;D

PS. Any more tips are highly valued as well.

[toymod]

I slightly beg to differ with the last post, 750 and under use the same springs to my knowledge 4 leaf spring the difference is in the draw bar size (in most cases) have a look here at the site below. WSith the increase of steel sizes it will be heavier so in fact this is the opposite theory of the last past it will smooth it out!

http://www.oceanictrailers.com/tables/aluminium_specs.php

This should help you out and give you a guide to go by when shopping around (framing sizes skids etc). I havent found any other manufater that putz there details up not even redco or tinka! which as I found out is a big bugger, when trying to compare.

I to would recomend bearing buddies of some sort all trailers that I looked at has the tie down points the bigger the trailer the more they will have normaly for a trailer your size will have one at the front and one on each side down the back.

Once again hope this helps a bit

[Hoges]

Melb based Dunbier trailers...
Melbourne Office
136-164 Boundary Road,
Braeside,
VICTORIA 3195
Ph: (03) 9580 2455
Fax: (03) 9587 3374
Email:
dunbier@dunbier.com
http://www.dunbier.com/trailers.htm

[Eagle]

I have a Blue Fin 4.75 Weekender with a 60hp EFI 4st. This sits on an Oceanic trailer that is all gavanized and is only 17 months old. #I have a problem with the trailer that I am about to fix myself. The trailer (and many others) has galvanized slipper springs. The spring on the right has snapped into three pieces. I am an engineering technician (retired) and I am fully conversant with springs and spring manufacture. The only comment I can make about galvanized springs is - "Get rid of them!" If you do a search thru other boating forums you will find my comments described in full detail. I have even lesser thoughts about slipper springs, I hate them!
The problem is that a "propper spring" is / should be fitted with a shackle same as found on a good quality box trailer. #This unfortunately creates two problems. The trailer is raised a few inches more to accommodate the height of the shackle and a non-galvanised spring needs constant care and attention.
Actually, it may not need any extra TLC at all. The springs on a boat trailer need very constant TLC all the time, galvanized or not. How many of you dismantle your springs and check them over and lubricate them as often as they should be? Galvanized springs are prone to failure because they are galvanized. The extra heat of galvanizing can / will alter the temper and grain structure of the steel. (As I said, check the other forums). OK. I know that many of you will contradict me and tell me your galvanized springs have been going for years with no problems. This is great but I know many of you have come to grief also.
A major problem with my trailer (and yours too I bet) are the U Bolts that hold the springs and axle together. These bolts are only electro-plated and the zinc quickly dissapears. The threads and nuts rust up so much that it is difficult to impossible to undue them. The cheap bolts that lock the rollers and skids at their respective heights are very soft steel and again are only electroplated. They rust quickly and snap off when they need to be replaced or adjusted
I am pulling the boat off the trailer next week and repairing / replacing all the cheap junk on it. #The square steel upright bars that hold the rollers and skids are going to have a short length of steel welded to them so that these parts cant slip down from the jarring of the road in transporting the boat. Everything will then be coated with two coats of cold-gal paint for protection. How many of you guys have had the rollers or skids slip down from their initial setting? How many of you tightened the locking bolts and had them snap off?
If I were to get another trailer for my boat, I would design it and build it myself. All the RHS would be sealed at the ends and it would have two coats of cold gal paint and two coats of a good top coat. There would be no galvanized springs or slipper springs.
A final note, I fitted a length of galvanized angle to the rear of my trailer to enable the hold down straps to be fitted. The original location for the holding straps were in a position that alowed the winch to rub on the chine. This cut a hole in it. The angle was bolted to the mudguard assembley and the angle bracket at the rear. The assembley is very rigid and it also stops the axle/spring assembley from moving out of alignment. If I can get a photo to transfer to the forum I can show you exactly how it works. To have the axle located and locked was a great blessing. You may or may not agree with my thoughts and or ideas but they work for me.
Eagle

[Smelly]

Can I ask how much you paid for htis trailer Eagle?

SOunds deep - excellent tips - Many thanks!