2 Stroke Oil, Quality, the Benefits or Negatives

[impulse492f]

Hi all,

Background

I have completed a search on this topic and have read mixed reports on the different types of 2 stroke oil used and there denefits.

Question

My question for discussion is what benefits do the higher priced oils have over the supermarkets brands (K-mart, Big-W, Super Cheap Auto etc). Do they burn better, less pollution, better for the motor, bring the fish closer to the boat? ;D

Reasoning?

I have recently purchased a Signature 492F in almost perfect condition with 234 hours on the clock and would like to keep the Suzuki 85 (Oil injected) in the same perfect condition.

The Manual

My Suzuki manual states that I (as the owner) should only use SUZUKI CCI Oil or a NMMA (??) certified TC-W III oil.

Confusion

I would have expected that any of today’s oils (Valvoline, Pennrite, Shell etc) if certified to the above standard are OK for use as it meets these standards and given the hype surrounding Quality Assurance Standards these days, the major oil companies would not produce anything but a conforming quality product.

Having said that it would seem users here rely on the more expensive unique outboard oils and I would like to know why.

Replies

If you could back up your reply with a real life experience or from expert advice, it would be appreciated.

Thanks

[winston]

I have yet to see any quantitative data with respect to two stroke oils (with the exception of the tcw3 certification). Any forum that I have researched this same question has never yielded any quantitative data either. All responses have been subjective and it seems that the placebo effect still holds true, i.e. boaties appear to sing the praises of outboard manufacters oils to justify the higher price they have paid. Outboard manufacturers do not make their own oils but simply licence oil companies to make and label it fot them. Does anybody really believe that oil companies such as valvoline,castrol, shell or caltex produce an oil of inferior quality compared to yamaha or evinrude? (that should be sufficient fuel to get the fire going). Cheers Winston.

[falcon01]

All I can say is If you going to spend between approx $2000 and who knows for and engine between 4hp and 300hp why would you put cheap oil in it lawn mower engines cost $600 dollars to replace and outboard at least $2000 grand it not that much dearer brought 7.74 litres of quicksilver for $55 that is $7.10 for a litre and that is not that dear

[QldKev]

Ref http://www.nmma.org/certification/programs/oils/ #Any oils that meet the TC-W3 requirement will do for my boat engines; and have done for many years. #I use the standard Valvoline. #But I guess this is like the fuel octane debate; there will be a lot of responses that say you must use the best (highest octane); without any factual evidence to back it up. #I don’t pretend to know as much as the oil certification board, nor have the large budget to test theories; I will leave in their hands. #I’m sorry if this sounds a bit hard, but I see these boards with pages of opinions that are often put forward as factual. #If it makes you feel more confident to spend big $$ on synthetic oil, go ahead; sometimes the self-reassurance can be worthwhile. Some people go to the synth oils cause they find the smell less irritating. #Just don’t be one of those that pay extra for synthetics, then start your engine for 5secs and take off at 4,000rpm. #Also it doesn’t matter which oil you use, if you do much low / medium speed engine running remember to decarb at least once a year.

[winston]

Great post Kev,I notice that Yamalube and Caltex are registered by the same company. I knew Caltex was as good as Yamalube but at $19 for four litres which includes a free cap , guess which one I will buy?

[mark221263]

This one always stirs up a hornets nest. From experience I've found that the manufactures oils seem to burn cleaner than most of the cheaper oils. In my previous Yamaha, yamalube ran muck cleaner and idled longer without fouled plugs when compared to Castrol’s oil.
In my current merc I run merc's premium plus which runs nice and clean. With so much $$$$ in your outboard and the significance of reliability I'm not going to cut back on a few dollars.
My advice is try one of the better brands preferably from the same manufacturer as the ouboard.

Note idle performance and smoke levels, especially when cold as this will only magnify the ability to produce carbon deposits. Check the plugs as well if you have time. Then do a similar check over a few hours running with the cheaper oil and see if you notice any difference.

I’m confident the proof will be in the pudding. Also ask some long term outboard mechanics what are their experiances with cheap oil, carbon build up and outboard life.

At the end of the day, good oil is cheap insurance and although they all may pass tcw III some will exceed it further than others.

Cheers Mark

[bignick]

Use the good stuff. Motors are just too expensive to scrimp on something like oil. If the go FUTT, it will be at the worst possible time in the worst possible place, and there ain't no RACQ on the water and you can't just sit there and wait until help arrives. Seriously though, some of the cheaper oils will "glug up" in your oil injector lines, which will block the lines and restrict oil flow to the engine, the consequences of which are obvious. I've only used Yamalube in all the oil injected 2 stroke outboards that I have owned and i haven't had a problem. I even run it through the 90 Merc I've got now. The good stuff can get a little bit pricey, but what price do you put on your investment or, maybe, your safety?

Cheers,
NICK.

[impulse492f]

Thanks again for the great replies, and yes it would seem people want to trust the exclusive outboard brands.

I will do some testing on my rig and post the findings (if any).

[Argle]

Since changing from the basic Valvoline tcw-3 to the Quicksilver oil Ive noticed a lot less smoke at start up and at idle. As for smell I can really tell too much but definately less smoke so Ill stick with the Quicksilver for that reason alone.

Cheers and Beers

[mark221263]

I also find that the mercury premium plus oil burns cleaner than the merc premium oil.

Have a look at the USA "screem and fly" web site. Although these guys are very performance orientated they know what oils hold engines together. By far most prefer the merc premium plus oil if running a straight mineral based oil.

BCF have the merc premium plus at a good price of around $80 for 10 litres which I've found is cheaper than most mercury outlets.

Another recommendation is the "mercury high performance" leg oil for the the gear box. Designed for the high hp stern drives this is recommended for outboards doing sking etc and can hold significant amounts of water while still retaining good lubrication properties. This is only $5 more than the standard oil and over 12 months the price differance is zip!

Cheers Mark