Painting a tinney

[troy]

How do you go about doing this.
Like preparation and undercoat and final finishing coat.
It has never been painted so where do you start.
Thanks.
Troy

[Grand_Marlin]

Hi Troy,
Depending on the age / condition of the boat.
If it is an older boat and has a buildup of oxide, then it may need a light sandblast.
Then an acid wash,
Then aluminium etch prime
Then a high build primer if you have to take any imperfections out.
Then 2 coats topcoat (can be topcoated straight over etchprime if surface is good)
Light hand sanding with say 400grit wet n dry, used wet, after primer coat.

Ther is a bit mor eto it than this, but these are the basics.

Cheers

Pete

[rikitikitaka]

Hey Troy,

Just wondering how you have gone. I am just about to paint my boat and am in the same position, not knowing exactly what to do. So if you have done yours and have any tips let me know.

Thanks

Logan

[revs57]

Hi Troy,

Pete (Grand Marlin) has given you the good oil....I followed that process...but I'd probably be a little warey of even a light sand blast...

I washed the bare alloy with CT 18 to take of any grease and muck from the manufacturing process.

The acid etch I used was a phosphoric acid base not Hydrachloric...mixed it up at a ratio of approx 4 to 1...you'll know when you've got it right...It should go on and react (etch) quite rapidly..if it doesn't its too weak....make sure you wash it off before it dries...repeat...do not let it dry...as it will leave a powdery residue that will eventually cause the paint to flake off.

Then wipe with metho prior to ectch prime to remove any dust

Wipe etch prime with prepsol not metho (metho will pull it off)

Fill any boofs with a good quality bog...sand back 80-400...wipe with prepsol and hi build (I left these areas a little low to minimise the risk of bog shaking out...and put a few extra coats of hi build on those areas to pull them up.)

Give it a light rub...we used 400 from memory

Wipe with prepsol and

then top coat...I only put one good coat on the Riptide...should've put two..never mind....I'll pick that up next time

Seahorse (Greg) Deals in Hi-Chem...its an industrial 2 pac...he should be able to give you a sharp price - PM him

Cheers

rhys

[revs57]

PS you could use a product from Salt X called Saltbuster to clean the bare hull up initially instead of sand blast...I use it on the Riptide to keep the corrosion at bay...its designed to remove "stubborn salt deposits"...Reads up to be a great product

If you need to get onto it and can't I'll see what I can do...an aquaintence of mine is a distributor...not cheap $39.50

Just let me know

cheers

rhys

[Seahorse]

hey rhys.
thanks mate. i will always do sharp prices for all guys on here.

cheers
greg

[HarryO]

G'day fellas...

Am I being paranoid, or what?

I have to paint the outside of the little quinnie 12 footer,
currently painted, but fairly old, few scratches, etc.

Questions are:

Last time I checked, automotive paint still had lead in it.
Wouldn't that pose a problem with the alloy?

The primers were zinc based, also, does this pose
a problem as well?

Is there a specific marine primer & paint for alloy that is reasonably
priced that is not 2 pack, so I could spray it with a CIG Beaver?


Harry...

[seatime]

Hi troy,
With my new tinnie 4M, I used PROTEC 2-pac polyurethane, how I did it was;
1. pressure clean with fresh water
2. rub down with Wax and Grease Remover and scotch type pad
3. repeat 1 and 2
4. dry with clean rags and blower/vac
5. spray with EPOTEC Primer Surfacer
6. rub over with scotch pads and clean rags
7. spray with POLYTHANE topcoat, rub down as at 6. and repeat.

2 years and ok so far. This stuff stays flexible because I've drilled thru a few times and scraped it on a roller bracket. cheers

[Seahorse]

scourer or acid wash alley. etch prime with single pack etch. 2 coats. light rub then top coat wit 2 coats auto top coat. its that easy.