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catchy_fishy
23-04-2006, 06:45 AM
I'm trying to get to the bottom of a problem I have on my boat - she starts but won't idle.

I have two 40HP Merc's Yammie Style 1990's - the problem relates only to one of them.

I've checked
* there are no kinks in the fuel line,
* Fuel filter has fuel, dirt is being trapped properly by the filter - cleaned out thr small amount I found
* Not sure how to check if the needle is jammed but I did open up the seat and closed it again, then reprimed - much fuel poured out into the "bowl" of the cowl when I loosened the seat's screws -so I've assumed all is Ok there.
* Next onto a jammed choke - this could have been the cause, but my motors were running well, then cut after about 30 minutes of running

In this regard I have two questions I need some help on:

1. Flooding
Not knowing what the choke looked like in the engine, today, while investigating problems, I played with the little sprung "pole" for quite some time, (5 minutes or so), wondering what it did. #Then discovered I had been playing with the choke.

How do I know if I have flooded the motor, do I need to bleed it if I have flooded it, or will it bounce back after a while

2. What is this ? - I followed the fuel line past the fuel filter. #And know I get lost. #At the same place the choke terminates, so does the fuel - #sounds obvious I know, but in this field I'm wet behind the ears, so please #go with me.

i found a plate at the top of the 'block" - at least that's what I think it is, and unscrewed the plate. #See pic attached. #I don't know what I am looking at here and likewise do not know what I should be looking for here ?

Stumped.

Can anyone offer any advice ?

Mike

Spaniard_King
23-04-2006, 08:00 AM
Thats a carby,

In particular the arrow is pointing to the cover plug which underneath lies the idle passages.

The screw you can see in the picture is the idle mixture adjusting screw

Garry

Blackened
23-04-2006, 05:36 PM
G'day
agreed, definatly one of the carbs. If that's the mixture screw.... this adjusts the fuel/air ratio entering the engine. To tune you screw it in till seated and then unscrew 1/4 to 1/2 a turn at a time untill the engine is running smooth at all revs.
Dave

akman1
23-04-2006, 07:03 PM
No offence but a little bit of knowledge is often more dangerous than none at all.Looking at the pic I think it is a fuel idle mixture screw not air idle mixture screw(both do the same thing)the small spring at the bottom right is connected to the choke butterfly and the other big spring you can see is connected to the throttle one.Non comprehenday about the opening the seat and bowl stuff.
Does the engine run above idle?if not I would look at the vacuum lift pump and vac. line first,if in doubt take to someone who knows as by playing around could make matters worse,seen too many people do their own work and ends up costing them twice as much.And no I doe'nt work on motors for a living nowadays...

catchy_fishy
23-04-2006, 08:41 PM
Thanks for the responses.

Should it start with the screw fastened up tight (seated), or must it be a 1.4 or so turned out first. Presumin all else is working.

What do I do If I have flooded the engine ?

Mike

blaze
23-04-2006, 09:02 PM
Hi Mike
One of the easiest fixes I have found for a flooded engine is to pull the plugs out, leave over night and then put a new set of plugs in and start as per normal for a cold start.
Doesnt help if you are in a hurry so try this
If you have a cold start lever (not throttle or choke control), put that to max revvs and try to start or get a mate to hold the throttle at wide open on the carb and try to strart. What this does is allow the motor to draw in max air and learns the air/fuel ratio to somewhere near normal.
You may well have a blocked idle transistion circuit in your carbie. To fix this would require the removal of the carbies, dismantle, clean and reasssemble.
cheers
blaze

impulse492f
23-04-2006, 10:59 PM
Hi catchy,

Yes it sounds like a carbie, my 85 Suzuki had the same problem of starting but wouldn't run and in the end just wouldn't start. I rebuilt the 3 carbies and she was as good as new.

I have attached a guided that i think came from this site that might help now if not in the future (this is why i kept it).

I have spelt out some items in case you may not know what they are and sorry if you already know.


It might start with the screw completely turn in, caution don't turn the screw and lock it down tight as this will damage the end of the screw (it should be shaped like a needle). If you do you chance putting a groove around the end, this will effect the mixture settings and may staff it up completely. As stated earlier a ¼ turn is good to start and keep turning it out until you hear or feel the motor running poorly. (It took me a whole day to tune my 3 carbies) and its best to tune your carbie in the water. My Suzuki air mixtures work the more they are turned clockwise (in) the richer the mixture is (less air). If you hear your motor “sneeze” then that’s a sign of a lean mixture (not enough fuel or to much air) and this might burn a hole in your pistons. I run a little rich (more fuel).


To start a flooded engine you need more air like blaze said. The best thing is to remove your spark plugs and crank the motor over a couple of times which will push out any "extra" fuel/oil mix (not that you should see any) then install new spark plugs. (You can clean your old plugs but new is better)

Start the motor with no choke (my Suzuki has a push and turn ignition key for the choke i.e. don't push the key no choke) this will allow more air into the carbies (the choke reduces the air flow by closing the butterflies). If you hear it start but die straight away try it again, if it continues to fire ever key turn try a little choke as it may now need it (the motor is no longer flooded and needs less air to start when cold).

If it is still flooded break out your extended battery as the only other way is keep it cranking until it dries out inside and fires and when she does you should see a shit load of smoke from the oil in the cylinders.

You can also try that stuff you can buy from auto shops call Air-O-Start (there are other names as well) which are basically high octane “boosters” but I don’t like these are there is normally no lubricants in them. If used sparingly they should be OK for a once off.

Hopefully it has started and all is well, if not time to pull the carbie off and give her a clean in some carbie cleaner and/or Metho

catchy_fishy
24-04-2006, 04:19 AM
I have attached a guided that i think came from this site that might help now if not in the future (this is why i kept it).



Thanks again for the detailed response. #I will conquer this animal. #Already I know more today than yesterday. The attachment you sent in all likelihood came from Scott.

I sent him a PM on this subject a few days ago, subject line : "Mike is in Sh1t again !!!!", and he sent the same attachment.

Your detail answers will help a lot. #

I fiddled a bit today. #On cold start she fired and ran for about 2-3 minutes, no problems, accepted throttle, up and down, idled nicely for a while and then simply cut. #I did manage to restart her with pull start, but in the end I gave up - it's bloody ahrd work pulling all the time.

WHY pull start - looks like my key start has died too - you know that horrible trrrrrrrrrrr sound that happens if your battery in your car has died. - I got the same sound and no repsonse from the key.

I have two motors so thought I would check out more basics, since I knew what to do there:

1. I swopped the sparkplugs around from the working motors (port side), and put the problem motor's spark plugs (the starboard motor) in the port side motor. #No problem -should've guessed though, since it did fire.

The bad motor's spark plugs were very dry - should they be dry or full of petrol ??

2. I also swopped the fuel supply lines around just to make sure there wasn't a problem getting to fuel to the carb - the good motor works fine on the bad motor's fule line, so that's ruled out.

3. I fiddled with the idle mixture adjusting screw, but didn't get too mucjh joy there, as that's when the motor started cutting again.

4. I have invited a good mate over for a braai (BBQ) next weekend - he's a lot more technical than I am, and used to service his own motorbike. #Between us, and input along the way from Ausfish, I'm sure we'll get it right.

Keep the ideas coming - I want to learn how to do this myself, instead of keeping sending her in, every time there's something small. I appreciate all the help along the way.

Mike

catchy_fishy
24-04-2006, 04:44 AM
Another thought to ponder:

I noticed a particular nut that is "leaking" fuel. #Any correlation d'ya think ? Also labelled that which I know now what it is - getting somewhere. ;)

See pic

Mike

Spaniard_King
24-04-2006, 05:07 AM
Its the carby drain bung usually has a fiber or nylon washer type gasket

Garry

catchy_fishy
24-04-2006, 06:23 AM
Gary
Thanks - does this suggest that it could / should be drained, and if so when ?

If it is leaking, as it is, does this suggest a new washer is a must have ?

Mike

2rods
24-04-2006, 07:13 AM
Mike you would normaly drain them if you had water in your fuel or stale fuel from sitting to long. I would drain them and replace the washer if it was me doing the job.

as for the electrical problem get it checked out by an auto elec... it might be the course of your idle fault as well

2rods

impulse492f
24-04-2006, 08:19 AM
Mike,

Yes it’s the fuel bowl drain which you drain if needed, I would drain them both now look for any water and start with fresh bowls of fuel.

As I'm sure you know you have 2 carbies which means you will have 2 mixture screws. If you only tune one then this will in itself cause problems. You should also have 1 idle screw that when turned will cause the link (the one in your picture that has the white clips) to move the main throttle on both carbies (via the linkage). This will increase the idle without adjusting the mixture.

Your tests are exactly what i would have done, try and transfer the problem over to your "working" motor. It’s telling me that there is a fuel problem and it’s starving for fuel and is carbie related.

When you took the plugs out and noticed they were dry was that after she stalled? If so then I'd say the fuel level in the carb(s) are wrong or and more likely, your cardie is dirty and blocked.

After she starts for 2-3min and starts to die you could try the following,

1. As she’s dieing try pumping the priming bulb (This will push more fuel into the carbies and if its a float level problem it should start to pick the rev's up and run. This test also tests the fuel pump (this should be a mounted on the motor block somewhere after the inline fuel filter). If this test works then its one of those items at fault

2. Close the choke a small amount (as from the pictures it’s a manual pull level). If the idle picks up them it is probably a block jet in the carbie or possibly an ain leak in one of the gaskets in the carbie.

Now going right back to when this happened originally after you stored the motor for 5 weeks, then it seems to me to be a dirty gummed up carbie and the only fix is removal and clean. I had never done this until i pulled my off and the hardest thing was unbolting them. Once off they are a very simple carbie and I don't think you would have any hassles at all. Make sure you buy new gaskets and clean all the gasket services well, if you cant' get all the old gasket off try a little wet-n-dry paper (1200 grit) to remove (always rube the wet-n-dry in a figure 8 pattern as this lessens the possibility of uneven wear).

I've probably gone to far but i think this is where you'll end up.

Let us know how you go.

blaze
24-04-2006, 11:18 AM
NEVER turn your motor over with the plugs out without first earthing the plug leads. Have you ever seen fuel pump out of a motor with the plugs out, I have.
Was sitting on a flooded motor bike, plugs out, hit the starter to pump out excess fuel. Next think I new was I was sitting in the middle of a petrol fire. I was very lucky I was wearing full leathers at the time, motor bike wasnt so lucky. At the time I was a hairy a*sed young mechanical apprentice and new best, also luck it was my own bike.
cheers
blaze

Spaniard_King
24-04-2006, 07:25 PM
If you need to turn the motor over with the plugs out PULL the cord from the kill switch. This will earth the ignition and allow you still to crank it

Garry

catchy_fishy
25-04-2006, 06:58 AM
Mike,

As I'm sure you know you have 2 carbies

I had been wondering if there was another one - thanks for the confirmation.

And you definately had not gone too far - for some maybe, for me definately not.

Also useful info about removing the gaskets - I would probably have tried to scrape it off with a screw driver. ::) :-[

Cheers

Thursday's a holiday here so I'll be trying a few of the recommendations then.

Mike

Mike

catchy_fishy
25-04-2006, 07:05 AM
you would normaly drain them if you had water in your fuel or stale fuel from sitting to long. I would drain them and replace the washer if it was me doing the job.

Stale fuel is a definate possibility, prior to the "storage" the fule was in her for about 2-3 months (Dec-March).

So I'll drain and replace the washer.

Just to confirm, after I've drained, by undoiing the nut, I presume that I just put the new washer on and tighten up the nut. When I re-prime, the fuel will fill up again ?? - in other words I don't have to put fuel in / oil in to this drain hole, as one does when changing the oil ??

Mike

catchy_fishy
25-04-2006, 07:12 AM
NEVER turn your motor over with the plugs out without first earthing the plug leads.


How did you know I'd try that ? :-?

Seems I need to add to Cheech's post on things not to do. Yep, I did that this weekend just gone, fortunately there was a horrible noise before any disaster anhd I switched the key off very quickly.

All the way through this I take the apporoach of - "I wonder what this does"'

Just in case, throughout this entire ordeal, I have had the fire extinguisher at the ready. I was lucky I guess

Mike

catchy_fishy
25-04-2006, 07:15 AM
If you need to turn the motor over with the plugs out PULL the cord from the kill switch. This will earth the ignition and allow you still to crank it. Garry

Very good to know - There I was having read and re-read Blaze's post thinking now how the hell do I earth the ignition - everything around me is fibreglass.

Thanks agains for all the responses I feel like I'm getting somewhere - even though I have got nowhere.

Mike

impulse492f
25-04-2006, 08:43 AM
Just to confirm, after I've drained, by undoiing the nut, I presume that I just put the new washer on and tighten up the nut. When I re-prime, the fuel will fill up again ?? - in other words I don't have to put fuel in / oil in to this drain hole, as one does when changing the oil ??

Mike



Yes thats correct,they will re-fill as you prime with the bulb. You should here the fuel trickling in.

blaze
25-04-2006, 09:35 AM
or you can leave the drain plugs in the carbies out and pump a bit of fuel through them, tends to flush any sh*t out of them. Then screw the plugs in with new washers and try your normal cold start method. If doing this place a nice handful of good absorbing rag around carbies to soak any fuel that you pump through (remove this before trying to start)
cheers
blaze

Angla
25-04-2006, 10:23 AM
Have you checked for bad electrical connections. Just pull on the connections a little. Not enough to snap stuff or tear the inner strands of wire.

Look for the ground wire of the coil. It should connect from the coil (where the spark plug leads come from) to the motor. Check the connections are tight under a bolt or screw.

The best way to work out electrical bits and pieces is with a circuit diagram, and use the coloured wires to identify stuff and then follow the wires where possible.

Circuit diagrams can be found on some websites with some searching. Try searching "mercury wiring diagrams" first

Chris

snasman
25-04-2006, 04:57 PM
Hi catchy_fishy in reguards to turning your mixture screws ,2 stroke motors react differently to 4 strokes they are much slower to respond ie turn the screw 1/4 of a turn then wait about 15 to 20 seconds min, this allows the fuel to come into the crank and mix properly apart from that most of the info u have been given is mostly correct,the fibre washer on your drain plug u should be able to pick up from repco for a few cents and replace both of them.If the motor is flooded ,as it has been said, hold it at full throttle and try starting it if it was flooded thick black smoke will be evident and clear after about 15 to 20 seconds .hope u get to the bottom of your problem. Cheers Snas

catchy_fishy
26-04-2006, 07:02 AM
Have you checked for bad electrical connections. #
Circuit diagrams can be found on some websites with some searching.

I found this site - Google is amazing sometimes

http://www.maxrules.com/fixoldmercindex.html. Quite a bit of reading to do now.

Still hoping for a reference guide from a friend who's trying to hunt one down for me. You know who you are!!!!!

Cheers again - maybe one of these day's I'll be able to contribute to technical Questions instead of just take, take, take.

Mike

DaveSue_Fishos_Two
26-04-2006, 08:57 PM
Catchy

I'm no mechanic but I have learned that sometimes problems are caused by the simplest of things which we often overlook. Do you run different fuel tanks for each of the motors? If so, it may be something as simple as a blocked breather on the offending side. It may not be, but it would sure be worth a look.

Cheers
Dave

catchy_fishy
27-04-2006, 05:00 AM
Catchy

I'm no mechanic but I have learned that sometimes problems are caused by the simplest of things which we often overlook. Do you run different fuel tanks for each of the motors? If so, it may be something as simple as a blocked breather on the offending side. It may not be, but it would sure be worth a look.

Cheers
Dave

[smiley=thumbsup.gif] Yeah Dave I tried that too.

First I swopped the pipes in each tank, to rule out the breather. Then I even went further and changed the fuel pipes - first back to the original tanks, then I changed which motors each fuel line connected to.

No answers there unfortunately.

Good suggestion though - thanks

Mike

catchy_fishy
27-04-2006, 07:15 PM
Thought I'd put this on this thread for those following that might be kind of where I am knowledge wise - some additional useful info here.

Check the attachment

Angla
27-04-2006, 11:35 PM
Persistence usually pays off, but at all times keep your mind open to what the problem is.

So if you think you have proven it is not something, Just say that you have not proven what it is yet and keep all other options open.

Chris

Hope I didn't twist that too much.

catchy_fishy
28-04-2006, 06:35 AM
No twisting at all.

Basically what you've said is that even if 've checked it, I can't exclude it.

hmmmmm. [smiley=hanged.gif] feeling like stopping already.

"just keep swimming,just keep swimming, just keep swimming" catchy humms to himself

Mike

Burley_Boy
28-04-2006, 10:41 AM
Kudos to you for having a go and learning as you go.
Its one of lifes little joys to learn new things and sometimes it costs a bit to learn at other times you save a packet.

Sounds like if it ran ok for three minutes before dying then its either something electrical when the engine heats up (check for decent spark after it dies) but having said that if the engine runs well at throttle and just won't idle then that is probably ruled out.
The other issue is fuel. I mean the principle is simple, fuel+air+spark=boom. So with a leaking fuel bowl you may not be getting enough fuel into the carbies and the engine dies. (I think a quick check would be to remove the bowl drain plug once it dies and if its not full of fuel then there is an issue)
Sucking air into a fuel line prior to the fuel pump and the fuel pump itself not pumping sufficient at low revs, could be a problem but normally I'd expect this symptom to be for it to run well at idle and then die after you run it for a while. So I'm not really helping here am I... But having said that testing on the water is another issue so if it runs with the trottle up but has no grunt then we're back to air in the fuel line or not enough fuel getting through to the cylinder.

IF you have had water in the fuel, (empty fuel tank and have a look and check your fuel filter you'll find grotty muddy water if so) then chances are that you would need to strip the carbies all the way down and rinse and blow out all orifices (I used metho). Same thing goes for old premix I hear, it gummies up and if you block an air hole or something you can have lots of issues. Certainly test with fresh fuel in any case.

I once had an engine in with a shop repeatedly and eventually after talking to others I figured it had to be a carby issue and water in the fuel. I stripped down the 3 carbies once and tested, no good, did it again but more thoroughly (you only need one small hole blocked so blow them out) then the engine ran like a baby and never missed again. #

Good luck and if I've said something that doesn't apply on your engine then someone will hopefully put me straight. ;)

I've tinkered for the last 30odd years but am not a pro like Gary so listen to them. You'll sort it eventually.

mally
29-04-2006, 07:01 AM
mate sounds like u need to seal the drain plug on the carby bowl because when the bowl is full it will start and as it runs it sucks air through the leakand probably sucks rubbish as well. also if u want pull the bowl off and see if there is moisture in there if there is ,either drain your fuel or pour about 200ml of metho in your tank,also get your timing checked on your motor.there r only three things u should check if motor plays up (FUEL,AIR,SPARK)if these three things r good it should run good. good luck mate. 8-)

catchy_fishy
29-04-2006, 07:12 AM
Mike,

As I'm sure you know you have 2 carbies

I had been wondering if there was another one - thanks for the confirmation.

Guess what Impulse - there is only one carb

Seems my engines are a lot older than I thought - I had them as 1990. #The prop fastens on with a shear pin, and apparently Merc / Mariner stopped that design in early 70's ?

It has delayed getting the parts a bit, as now I want 100% confirmation before ordering the parts, but she will be opened up on Monday, and at least cleaned waiting re-assembly when I get the right parts.

finga64
29-04-2006, 07:53 AM
Hey Mike, the yammi/mariner had them (shear pins) a lot later then early 70's
That exploded view of the gearbox I sent you don't use shear pins and If I remember right when you had the prop trouble it wasn't a shear pin type. Do you still have the pictures to post again??
Scanning the gearbox stuff for you now. You'll have it soon.
Cheers and good luck this week-end
Scott

DALEPRICE
29-04-2006, 07:50 PM
by the looks of that first picture i see
2 carbies or have i had a few to many ::)
cheers dale
p.s #i am no mechanic so i am prob wrong

it could be the hyperdrive playing up ;D
all the best getting it going

catchy_fishy
30-04-2006, 04:24 AM
by the looks of that first picture i see
2 carbies or have i had a few to many ::)
cheers dale


You tell me - I have re-looked and most likely I am wrong. Have marked them on the drawing - I expect you are right.

Mike

catchy_fishy
30-04-2006, 04:34 AM
And here are the motors.

Mike

impulse492f
30-04-2006, 08:39 AM
Catchy,

You definitely have 2 carbies and you have circled the 2 mixture screws, no doubts in my mind at all.

finga64
30-04-2006, 08:50 AM
And definitely not shear pin props.
You haven't got a picture of the motors down do you Mike??
Did you get the email??
Cheers Scott

catchy_fishy
01-05-2006, 03:15 AM
Catchy,

You definitely have 2 carbies and you have circled the 2 mixture screws, no doubts in my mind at all.


OK :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[

Feel a bit like this guy for listening to other's advice [smiley=dunce.gif] or this guy [smiley=clown.gif],

Thanks again for the coinfirmations - the work starts in a few hours time. Getting rather excited - silly, but this is a big step forward for me.

Mike

catchy_fishy
01-05-2006, 03:22 AM
And definitely not shear pin props.
You haven't got a picture of the motors down do you Mike??
Did you get the email??
Cheers Scott


Hi Scott

Check you e-mail as well - I sent you some stuff from TMD.

I got the mail, thanks busy downloading.

If my props are not shear pin props, what are shear pin props ? My nut holding my prop on is held on by what I would call a split / shear pin - hence why i thought they were shear pin props.

Have you got a pic of a shear pin prop ? I'm interested in understanding the difference suddenly (if not i can google it i'm sure)

I'll go outside and get a pic of the motors down - give us a few minutes.


Mike

catchy_fishy
01-05-2006, 04:06 AM
If my props are not shear pin props, what are shear pin props ? #Have you got a pic of a shear pin prop ?

Started reading the info you sent - I see it's covered there - thanks.

Very useful docs, thanks - must have taken you an age to shrink it and scan it then upload it. I really appreciate the help.

Mike

catchy_fishy
01-05-2006, 06:30 AM
here are the motors, legs down

catchy_fishy
01-05-2006, 06:34 AM
and here is a close up of the prop trying to show the nut, and split pin / ??shear pin??

Mike

finga64
01-05-2006, 09:01 AM
Gidday catchy #:)
Do you have a picture of the boat side on showing the motors. I have a nagging thought that they're too low in the water.
Is that a skeg protector I see on the bottom of one??
Unusual that there's no wooden or plastic or alloy protector plate/pad between the motor and hull. :-?
Cheers Scott #:)

catchy_fishy
02-05-2006, 02:00 AM
Gidday catchy #:)
Do you have a picture of the boat side on showing the motors. I have a nagging thought that they're too low in the water. #:)

I'll e-mail you a pic to pick this up off this thread.

Mike

catchy_fishy
02-05-2006, 02:27 AM
To everyone that posted, read and maybe even got bored through this post here is the outcome:

A trip down memory lane first.

It all started while I was trying to store my motors, unwrapped her to check a few things and took the boat to the water, after 20 miutes of good going one engine just failed. No petrol smell, no spluttering, nothing.

Brought her home and fiddled a bit with some screws and knobs, and did the basic checks I could think of - posted a few pictures and learned a lot in the process. Thanks to all.

Checked out www.themarinedoctor.com and other useful merc sites and got to understand my outboard a bit better.

Impulse - I definately have two carbs. ;)

So what was wrong ?

DO NOT LAUGH :o :o

The engine originally cut out due to a loose battery terminal. After I fiddled with the idle screws I messsed up the carb adjustments and she kept cutting out from fuel starvation. #:-?

Without opening the carbs we fixed the problem - my good mate Wim suggested, after reading this entire post that we do all the basic checks again, after this (given that the key start was faltering anyway) he said let's just check the battery and so we did.

I checked the voltage across the battery and it was fine, then by chance I checked the terminal connectors - and found one was loose.

I could kick myself. >:(

Glad though I didn't take her in and pay someone to tell me that. #Had a few beers and whiskeys instead, ended up putting some meat on a fire and playing with the kids in the garden.

Lovely day it was

Fishin_Dan
02-05-2006, 02:35 AM
Good to hear boet!!! :D

There's a story about monkeys that eat a fruit from a tree, and they get a little light headed & giddy... I believe they even have the picture on the front of Amarillo... Hope that had nothing to do with it!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D

Good to hear you've got it all sorted mate.

finga64
02-05-2006, 08:14 AM
beauty :)
Bet Mike has a smile on his dial. ;)
It's a great day when you wake up and you know/think that you going to have a s-itty day and in the end you end up have a few drinks and a good feed.
Gees matey, If/when you ever come to Australia you gunna owe a couple of beers to us. [smiley=beer.gif]
Next story:- How's the gearbox??
Cheers Scott

catchy_fishy
03-05-2006, 04:22 AM
The gearbox for now was declared phase 2.

The controls have no lock on them to stop one selecting reverse inadvertently, as you are well aware I thought I may have seriously damaged them, as I was (only once) able to start the engine in forward gear.

I would love to strip the gearbox ASAP to check for metal filings, but I have to also keep the missus at bay regarding how much time I spend working on the boat and going fishing (all of these activities, even working on the landy) have now been grouped into "you and the time you spend fishing". For now though I can select forward and reverse and neutral and my original problem seems to have vanished (starting in forward). I will use the time to properly research the topic, read and try understand all the info you sent me, then begin with that job.

Instead of winterising Catchy Fishy I will be working on her little by little, thus running the motors at least every second weekend with the flush muffs through winter.

When I tackle the gearbox I will start a new thread though. Hopefully invite a few guys back to reading and posting.

Mike

Angla
03-05-2006, 09:53 PM
Catchy_fishy,

Good to see you found the problem and probably got some good experience along the way.

Angla

impulse492f
04-05-2006, 09:21 PM
Great news, some time spent but spent no money :)

At least you have the details if the day comes to play further.

Happy boating.

catchy_fishy
05-05-2006, 06:31 AM
Great news, some time spent but spent no money #:)

At least you have the details if the day comes to play further.

Happy boating.

You're right about the time spent but i learned a lot along the way - basic stuff but such relevant stuff that one day it might help me get home from out at sea.

Right down to how to clean an oiled up / dirty spark plug in an emergency.

More and more I am of the opinion that there should be more time and focus spent on the basics of engine trouble when taking one's skipper's ticket.

Thanks again to all

Cheers

Catchy Fishy