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davez104
08-08-2006, 02:09 PM
Hi guys,

Well, seems I have found a V17L to go have a look at in Brisbane this weekend. Just after a few pointers on things to look for when I go to inspect it. I think I know most of the things to look for but you guys would have more experience with boats than me so why not ask the guys in the know. Obviously check floors and transom for rot, but the best way to do this? Tilt motor up and put some weight on her to check for flexing?? Jump up and down on the floor? Will also check for any damage inside and out to see if she has been looked after. She has had the same owner for the last 20yrs, repowered with a new 135hp V6 merc in 1990, any comments on these motors, things to look for etc.
Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.
Dave.

Noelm
08-08-2006, 02:30 PM
a 1990 motor is now 16 years old, and rust/corrosion could be a drama now, and unless you are a mechanic of some sort, I would get a knowledgable person/mechanic to check it for you ,compression etc, and just check anything that gets suggested here, and do a GOOD test run, not just a 2 minute in the driveway on muffs affair

aussiefool
08-08-2006, 04:10 PM
M8 jump up into the boat and check that there will be enough room to move about with a couple of other blokes with rods ect. whatis the head room like e.g. can up stan up with the canopy up, can you see through the windscreen while driving that soret of thing

Argle
08-08-2006, 04:53 PM
Take it for a test drive!! Amazing how many people dont do this!! Check the steering while driving around make sure its all free and smooth. Check the tilt and trim operation, make sure all the gauges lights switches sounders etc etc actually work! Be aware of how the hull behaves ie will it do what you want will it carry the loads you are looking at, see how well it goes on and off the trailer and while its off the trailer give it a real good going over - much easier with no boat in the way!!
When you take it out see if ant water comes out of the bung-this could indicate leaks or maybe you shipped some in while on test.
Get behind the dash and inspect the wireing looking for loose wires/corrosion and general untidyness. Lift hatches open doors cabinets or whatever and dont be in too much of a hurry.
Check the gear linkage operation and if you can find out the max rpm for that model engine and make sure it can reach max rpm.
Other than that youre on the right track for checking the transom/floors etc.

Good luck with it

Cheers and beers
Scott

marlinqld
08-08-2006, 05:27 PM
When i bought my Ally Craft, i first checked there was a hull. Funny how alot of people dont check for that. ::) ;D :P

Secondly, check theres a trailer under the hull.... might make it hard to tow if there isnt one. ::) :o ;D :P

Thirdly, make sure theres a motor, long way home without one ::) :P

As a wise old man once told me.... buy the best you can afford
Mike

davez104
09-08-2006, 02:51 PM
Thanks guys,
Will take her for a good run for sure. Will also be sure to check ALL electricals, probably woudn't have thought of looking behind the dash, thanks. And, yeah, I'll make sure it has a hull :)
Thanks.
Dave.

Cheech
09-08-2006, 08:05 PM
Dave, price is always a big factor in the state of the boat. What I mean is that you cannot expect a rolls royce if you are paying commodore prices. But if you pay for a commodore you should get a commodore, not a lemmon.

You can get very good motors of that vintage. I have a simmilar vintage 1988 merc on my 18fter and it is a great motor. Old shape and noisy, but that is the way they are. I think it is getting better with age. Never miss a beat and is extremely reliable. I think it is because it gets used very regularly and outboards seem to be better with more rather than less use. But is a gamble because it could have been stuffed when I bought the boat for all I knew.

I broke the rules and bought it without a water test. Though I probably would not do that again. I did buy it off another regular Ausfisher so had a fair idea that I was not getting screwed, but could have gone the other way. Heard too many horror storys since then so will be a lot more careful next time.

I would suggest with an old merc, get a compression test. If they are all within tollerance and similar, then you are at least on the right track as they are a pretty basic motor. I was lucky and all 4 cylinders are exactly the same at 125psi.

Apart from that, I think there is a bit of luck involved in getting a good one.

Cheech

fleagle
09-08-2006, 08:55 PM
Dave

Having been through this myself recently some things that might help apologies if some of these have already been mentioned.

1. Make yourself a checklist and work through logically eg outside front to back - inside front to back. You might feel like a dill but you won't then go home and remember 5 things you forgot to look at.

2. Motor of that age needs to be checked by mechanic - compression, gearbox oil and seals, and plug visual inspection minimum. Still not 100% guarantee but what else can you do than get an expert opinion. Old electrics ie stator and powerpack may be a concern - be guided by your mechanic who should be able to identify dramas inherent with a particular model. (I had a 94 Merc 90 a while ago - this model was notorious for failing stators - if I had known this I would have replaced it before having to get towed home...)

Also hear the motor started from dead cold if you can - if the owner of 20yrs has dramas getting it going.........

3. Trim/tilt all the way up and all the way down - can be expensive to rebuild/repair. Beware strange noises and anything not how you think it should be.

4. Don't be too scared off by minor blemishes in a glass hull of that age. If floor and transom are sound and no other signs of structural issues should be pretty good. Remember that you can also pay for this sort of inspection if desired. Be guided by your gut feeling - anything you feel might be dodgy may well be. You will get a feel from the seller as to whether they are fair dinkum or not.

5. Don't forget trailer and ensure seller knows thay have to give you a safety certificate.

6. Account for any extras that you will need to get soon in considering price.

7. Without exaggerating then add a grand to your cost for the other stuff - regos, insurance, new battery etc etc. With any luck there'll be change for some new fishing gear.

Good luck and let us know how you go.

F

ps don't rush in if it doesn't feel right

phewy
10-08-2006, 08:33 AM
This is a checklist I came across from another member on a different site. He's also a member here. Thanks Bayside! ;)

"Such a long answer required for such a little question......

Floor transom and engine are your main things to check.

Use a hammer on the floor or the heel of your foot to check for soft spots.

Trim the engine out to 45 degrees and push down hard on the prop. There should be no movement of the transom. Then tap around the transom with a big ring/open ended spanner (or similar) listening for sound differences. Dull noise=rot.

Check underneath for any cracks. Small gelcoat cracks running lengthwise are usually ok. Cracks running across the boat usually indicate a break in the hull.

Buy a compression guage from Supercheap or K-Mart (often cheaper than Supercheap) and check the comps. Crank the engine the same number of times for each cylinder and note the results. Below 100 psi is not desired generally. But more importantly, the readings should be within 10% of each other. If they are not, walk away.

Unscrew the gearbox drain (in bottom of leg) and let a little oil out. If only water comes out you have problems. If milky oil comes out you have problems. Old oil will usually be black. New oil is often blue or honey coloured or green.

Operate the power trim up and down repeatedly making sure it moves smoothly and freely. Power trim is incredibly expensive.

Turn the wheel back and forth. It should move freely and easily. If its tight the steering may need replacing.

Start the engine and have a good listen to the block (watch your head on the flywheel). Knocks or rattles are problems. A quiet engine will only make a "choof, choof" noise which is air induction into the carbies.

Shift in and out of forward and reverse gear. Should shift easily and without crunching. Make sure you shift quickly, really "snap" the controls into gear. Going slowly will chew the teeth and the shift dog. Whilst its in gear have a look at the prop shaft and see that its running true. Dont look at the prop coz they often look out of true. Look at the shaft in the centre.

Switch on anything electrical in the boat and then toss your multimeter across the battery. If your getting 13.5volts plus then your charge circuit is ok (if the engine has one).

Preferably you next want to run the engine in the water or in a test tank to truly assess it.

If you are looking at (in particular) a 4 cylinder 80hp or 85hp blueband Merc or a 75hp brownband Merc (same engine) or in fact any older Merc blueband and brownband then you MUST TEST IT in water or a test tank.

These engines, particularly the aforementioned 80, 85 and 75 suffer from a situation that occurs at a certain stage of engine wear. They can have excellent compression, sound ok running, but shift into gear when in the water (or test tank) and they will die. There is essentially no fix for this.... Except for a total rebuild and then some including new reed blocks, pistons and quite possibly crankshaft and block. NOT VIABLE.

So beware any older Merc that seems to have a really high idle setting. It's usually an indicator of the dreaded disease....

Have a good look at the trailer. People often think trailers are cheap but for the average 17ft boat a new trailer (say Dunbier or Mackay) is around $3000. Axles and springs aren't a huge concern, but the frame is. Springs are about $30 each to buy and the axle although rusty will normally be fine. A rusted out frame is going to cost you bucks...

Other things to check include all your electrical items. Switch on the fishfinder Gps etc to make sure they arent missing pixels from their displays (quite common). 27 Mhz radios lose their display segments too. Nav lights, anchor light, general 12v wiring etc. Check canopy and cover fabrics and frames."

seafarer3
10-08-2006, 11:17 AM
Hello,

Yes i do strongly agree with the above....
I missed a couple of small things,nothing to serious..
Mostly the trailer,"looking to fast" ......SLOW DOWN....
Also ASSUMED the trailer Road Worthy would find something...
I of all people should know better, being a diesel fitter..
I put it down being to excitted & just wanted to be out there...

Cheers
Scott

Fishin_Dan
10-08-2006, 02:06 PM
Make extra sure the floor is not soft....

Goto the link at the bottom of this post to see why! :'(


Even when mates that you'd trust completely tell you it's in good nick, make sure yourself. They won't be the ones having to pay for the repairs when needed ;)