Paint problem after 9 months

[Coontakinta]

Seems I have some issues with the paint on my Seaquest. the affected areas are around the bung and the anchor well drain. As cab be seen in the accompanying pics the paint is bubbling as though there were rust coming up from underneath.

The dealer says it 8nt warranty and so to do Seaquest, who seem to think its electrolysis or a current leak. Cant see how it can be electrolysis as there 8nt no dissimilar metal around the affected areas and as for a current leak fro the batteries, well they're isolated by a switch after every trip.

Any ideas what would be causing this? My thought is poor preparation before painting!

[Coontakinta]

here is a picture of the bung.

An email to seaquest has seen an offer of $200 to fix the problem but my initial investigations suggest at least twice that to fix the problem and then without actually knowing what caused it in the first place, who's to say it wont return?

[waykel]

Are the bungs stuck in with normal silastic or sikaflex. I have seen normal silastic react with aluminium, causing paint blistering. It attacks the raw edge that they drill, cut, out for the bungs and Lets water in under the paint ,then it blisters. Could be this

[Seahorse]

i dont know much about this electroylis thing but when i picked up new boat last week dealer told me to make sure i turn battery switch to off, as i have dual batteries. this apparently stops this. does that sound right.

greg

[dan099]

mate i had a ally craft with no battery and i got this sort of corrosion around all drilles holes as the boat was drilled after painting and this broke the seal between paint and hull i tried to get a warranty job done but was told this was normal

[Coontakinta]

Seahorse thats what Stewie said! I too ahve a dual battery system and always turn the battery switch off after all the prep work and cleaning has been done. deliberatly leave my radio receiver on for this reason as its a reminder that the batteries have not been isolated!

@waykel, as it was the dealer or manufacturer who put this bung in place I have no idea of what the gooo is unfortuneatly! How can i tell and if this is the problem, what could be causing the problem @ the pointly end? No gooo there!

When I asked Razerline about the electrolysis thing and there being no dissimilar metals around these areas I got no response!

[DaveSue_Fishos_Two]

I started to post something here and then realised the boat is glass........sorry!

Cheers
Dave

[Coontakinta]

Nope, reel nauti, its plate!

[DaveSue_Fishos_Two]

Ok..... :-[ Then there are dissimilar metals at the bungs. Aluminium transom and stainless bung screws. Therein lies the problem there, they haven't been insulated enough. That should be rectified by whoever fitted them, presumably the manufacturer.

Cheers
Dave

[Mr__Bean]

You can do what ever you want with your battery, and they can shove their piss poor response where the sun don't shine.

That corrosion is caused by them using stainless steel screws without a jointing compound to prevent galvanic corrosion.

If they had installed the bung with aluminium rivets then this would not have occured.

It absolutely pisses me off, time and time again people see their pride and joy corrode away in front of them due to poor workmanship at the boat fitout stage.

The boating Industry Association should have a minimum standard that boats are fitted out to.

I don't usually link to other sites, but if you look at a post I put up here on another site you will see how it should have been done:

http://www.fishnet.com.au/forums/viewtopic.php?t=36158 #

- Darren

[DaveSue_Fishos_Two]

Darren, after the corrosion has started and is visible, how would you suggest rectifying it. I know in Coonta's case the manufacturer should, but how about others who have older boats? Me included! Sorry Coonta, not trying to hog your thread.

Cheers
Dave

[Mr__Bean]

Nauti,

You have gotta get back to clean metal and then seal it again.

My understanding is that if there is any chance of saltwater getting between the dissimilar metals again it will cause another galvanic cell (like a battery cell) and start corroding again.

You gotta sand it right back, prime, paint, and seal in and around your fitting and its fasteners.

Sure it will look a bit shitty with an area of new paint, but nothing like it will look if you turn your back on it.

- Darren

P.S. Not sure what has happened with the anchor well, can't see from the photo. Most likely the paint has been speared by the steel anchor and a galvanic cell has started there too.

[Broome_Fisho]

Yep I'm with Reel Nauti, Stainless screws against Ali = corission, paint bubbling, mmm speaking through experience :-[


Eddy

[seatime]

Mr_Bean is spot on with the cure for the paint bubbles, remove all the crappy paint and then some, sand the edges back carefully into good paint.

Don't mix the paint types either, and don't use plain silicone, use marine grade sikaflex, and all alloy rivets.

Any drill holes should also be painted, if they have been drilled after the boat was painted.

If the builder or dealer don't want to take responsibility for the fitout, you had better check the whole boat for other stainless fastenings.

regards

[MJ]

Have the same problem. Where can I get DURALAC from? Thanks, Mike.

[stuart]

Who ever fitted the bung in the first place is responsible, period. It’s not like your paying $100 for the boat, more like 10 grand plus which makes it more annoying. The boating industry is getting more and cheaper as time goes on and it’s you and me that gets ripped. I would notify the manufacturer you will be contacting consumer affairs if this problem isn’t rectified immediately. It’s dodge workman ship and that’s all it boils down to, they seem to think we fisherman are all twats with only two brain cells to rub together. The most important issue they fail to understand is that if you piss a customer of he or she will tell every one and there goes your reputation and business.
Can you imagine spending 50k on a new car and getting rust all around the bolt holes and paint bubbling in the first few months? I think they would do a national car call back to rectify the problem.

Stu

[murf]

hi gelsec
i am jumping in here, after all the info i can get too :)
you say all alloy pop rivets? is there any special type or does the regular alloy (blind or closed end) ones wth steel pin do?

and to MJ i just bought a tube of Duralak at the local chandlery for $23.35

thanks Murf

[SeaHunt]

Tap the steel pin back through the rivet from where it breaks off with a nail or punch and and Sikaflex over. No Expert, just what I did, seems OK after a couple of years.

[blaze]

hi gelsec
i am jumping in here, after all the info i can get too :)
you say all alloy pop rivets? is there any special type or does the regular alloy (blind or closed end) ones wth steel pin do?

and to MJ i just bought a tube of Duralak at the local chandlery for $23.35

thanks Murf

use alloy rivets with alloy pin, blind if you need to but you can also put a dab of sikaflex to seal rivets
cheers
blaze

[Mr__Bean]

As mentioned earlier, aluminium rivet with an aluminium pin are the optimum.

If you are looking they are coded AA, Aluminium/Aluminium).

AS are Aluminium rivet with Steel Pin.

Etc etc.

Duralec also available at Whitworths and Bias Boating etc.

- Darren

[murf]

thanks for the good info fellas
Murf

[snakecatcher]

I also have a very small section of bubbling paint around a VHF ariel that has been installed using S/Steel screws. If I fix the cause of the problem using either sikaflex and or duralac will the small area of corrosion get bigger over time? If not then I would be tempted not to sand it back and repaint as this would be far more noticeable than the existing corrosion.

Grateful for any help on this

Thanks

Mike