Drive away anchor recovery

[dnej]

Any one using the drive away buoy and ring method of anchor retrieval?
What happens if the anchor gets stuck?How well does it work?
Are there any methods that work better than another? Which ring to buy & what size buy?
Thanks
David

[aido]

i almost always use the 'drive away anchor recovery' method.
my boat is a bit awkward when it come to getting at the
pointy end, and i'm pretty lazy.
i use one of those 2ft styrene balls with a one way type clip.
it lets the ball back up to the anchor but stops the anchor
dropping back down. not really necessary though, i've previously
used a ball with a plain 4 inch ring and that worked fine too.

nothing easier, tie off the anchor rope at the bollard to the required
length of rope, chuck everything in the back of the boat. when you
want to anchor up, just let it all out over the side.
when it's time to move, motor away slowly at about a 30 degree
angle to the foam ball. it should trail off out the back and catch
the anchor, then turn towards the rope so you can capture it
and pull the lot back into the back of the boat.

about the anchor snagged onto something solid, it can be a
problem, plenty of power on when the ropes tight and either
the prongs should straighten like they're supposed to or worse
case, the rope breaks.

you can always try and pull it in by hand like the old way, though
it's really little point, if your anchors snagged, you'd probably have
end up powering off in any case.

good luck with it.
aido.

[jeffo]

works well in my tinney..,. if the anchor is well and truely stuck i will pull up a bit more slack then just do slow circles around it till it works its way off. dont give it to much throttle or the nose will start to pull down.

[Lucky_Phill]

when it's time to move, motor away slowly at about a 30 degree
angle to the foam ball. it should trail off out the back and catch

I find the motor away slowly bit, not for me.

I motor forward, to get the ball to one side, and then give it heaps, usually up on the plane as soon as possible. I only use the 4 inch ring type. Have never had an anchor stuck.

I leave the rope attached / tied to the front bollard, as I am usually going to anchor in the same depth, therefore pulling all the rope etc into the rear deck area, and simply dropping it in from there once the new spot is found.

Cheers phill

[banshee]

G'day dnej,I have no experience using this method of retrieval in water under sixty feet deep,but in water from sixty to two hundred feet deep this is the only way to get your anchor up.I use a foam ball twelve inches across,this will lift any pronged reef pick,I lead fill all my anchors and this size ball floats them easy,you might even be able to down size,a boat shop may be able to advise you better on this.There are a few different ways of attaching the float,firstly you can use a purpose made clip that sort of weaves on when you are ready to go,I have been on boats that use these and I find them a pain in the arse they are also pricey.You can use a plain stainless ring three to four inches across(wide enough fo the chain and knots to slide through)and attach it to the float,if using this set up it must live on the anchor all day and you need to make sure that the rope doesn't knot up when you put the pick out.The sort I use is shaped like a key hole(imagination needed)with one side spring loaded so it can be cliped on just before I'm ready to go,it's made of stainless and I got mine at Glasscraft for about twelve dollars.To get the anchor up you simply drive of to the down wind side a bit(ten feet or so) till you spot the ball then either get your deckie to gather the rope with the gaff and hold it against the rear bollard while you drive up the line,DO NOT TIE IT OFF TO THE BOLLARD,or if you're one up in the boat drive off to the side and drive up the line making sure not to chop it with the prop,when the anchor floats up on the ball gun the boat for ten yards or so to pull the chain and anchor through the ring.If the pick is stuck hard the nose will dip a bit depending on how much stick your giving it and spin the boat a bit,nothing to dramatic.If it doesn't come off,do it a second time trying to get over the rope more.If it still won't let go do what you'd normaly do,unfortunately stuck and lost anchors are a part of reef fishing.Hope this helps.

[Snap]

I had an EZY FIT anchor clip & big foam ball for the last 2 years in my cabin never used :-[, cursed it everytime it came bouncing out >:(
Used it for the first time in April out off D.I piont. After I put it on backwards first, I then got the hang of it. Take off was just as interesting ball was too close, ran over the b#st#rd a number times but then moved it out a little and it worked fine.

Opinion; I will use it next time saves the back just takes a little practice, decky said a big SS ring would do the trick just as well & cheaper.

[NQCairns]

I am not a fan of the drive away fast method, nice and easy does it for me forever now :o. In a mates 70hp 16footer (V-sea) at the Bulwar wrecks in Moreton Bay a long time ago he tied to the rear bolard and took off almost down current.
The anchor stuck and nothing 'gave' the right rear corner took water over the side (we were sinking).
Only a fileting knife saved us, the rope was normal silver rope and it actually pulled the boat up under full throttle and started to drag us back against current as the stretch took back up. Be carefull doing high speed retrieves cause we proved nothing gives except the ability of the boat to float if it goes wrong. cheers nq

[smerl]

Never, never tie the anchor off to the rear bollard when you are trying to drive away. This is a sure fire way of getting into trouble as it will pull the back of the boat under if the anchor is stuck. Always have the anchor tied off at the front. There is a lot more boyancy in the front of the boat. At worst case, a really stuck anchor will just pull the front of the boat around. Not pleasant, but not dangerous either.

[Mudcrab]

Anybody who ties to a rear bollard should hand his licence in! Absolute madness and surprising it didn't tear the whole lot off! Hope his other boating "skills" are better than this demonstration!

[aido]

Take off was just as interesting ball was too close, ran over the b#st#rd a number times but then moved it out a little and it worked fine.


hi snap,
i think thats the best thing about the easy clip device,
you can set an amount of slack between the bollard and
the ball, i use about 5-6 metres, i find it also provides a
cusioning effect against a swell/chop.
plain ring with the rope through it lets the ball ride right
up near the bow which means it is also hard to judge where
the ball is when motoring away.

doing a bit of a search found this helpfull link.

http://www.anchorclip.com.au/HTML/fit.html

[dnej]

Does the anchor clip allow the chain to go through?
Thanks David

[banshee]

The ring types will let the anchor slide right through to the prongs.The specialy made clip type will let the rope go through one way but will not let it slide back down it will stop at the point where the rope joins the chain.

[dnej]

So it appears that the ring type is the way to go, with some sort of stopper, to keep the float away from the boat so you can see it.This could be done by splicing in an eye where you want the float to stop, and tieing on a small lead rope to eye and back to the boat .
Many thanks everone. this has been a great post.
David

[aido]

that should get you started dnej,
also a good idea would be a large container
to store the rope and chain in.
it can get messy, and it's not a good look getting
tangled in the ropes while they are going down
;D ;D ;D

[drb]

I can not stress how dangerous it is to tie off to the back off the boat using this method. If you insist on doing it this way You should have you epirb handy :D as small boats can and have been flipped by doing this.
If using the bouy method, or even the norwegian steam method it is a good idea to "trip the anchor". This means you shackle your chain to the head of the anchor and then use a small breakable link such as a cable tie or light line to attach the anchor shank to the chain. This way when excessive weight is placed on the anchor the trip breaks and the anchor gets pulled out backwards. This will prevent your expensive anchor, chain and rope being left at the bottom. If it does get caught just use a little patience and try and pull it out on a different angle. If conditions are rough tighten up on the anchor rope bit by bit and let the wave action and the bouyancy of the bow break the anchor out. Some people think that using trips causes them to drag anchor as they find the trips breaking but this is usually caused by a lack of scope in the anchor rope. Let more rope out and you will be fine. Ideal Rope length is 5 * depth.

[Jeremy]

DazB,

ideal rope length for what? Do you let out 300 m of rope in 60 m depth?

For fishing applications (as opposed to anchoring in the one spot overnight) you normally want the anchor rope as short as will hold the bottom so you can accurately anchor on your spot and the rope doesn't get in the way. I let out about 1.5 times water depth.

The solution to getting your anchor back is to use the correct size reef pick that will hold your boat in the swell and current but straighten under pressure to release. I've never had problems straightening my pick when required.

Cheers,

Jeremy

[bidkev]

DazB,

<snip>

The solution to getting your anchor back is to use the correct size reef pick that will hold your boat in the swell and current but straighten under pressure to release. I've never had problems straightening my pick when required.

Cheers,

Jeremy

Me neither. The "breakable link" method, as described by DazB is widely employed in the UK and called a "rotten bottom" (somethink like me when I've been on the grog and curry ;-)

Reef anchors are rarely used there and this method works on rough ground with sand anchors. I used to attach a strip of courlene to the anchor warp and the anchor eye, strong enough to not be broken by hand or wave action, but weak enough to snap when powered on from the bow. The anchor warp itself is attached to the head of the anchor so if the anchor is stuck, a bit of power will snap the courlene and lift the anchor up, arse about face. Slack is neeed in the anchor warp between where the courlene is attached and the warp is attached to the head of the anchor.

It can take time to get it right (the strength of the "rotten bottom") but as I say, this method manages to pull sand anchors out of rough ground, so it should work easily with reef picks.

kev

[drb]

5 * the depth is the ideal scope recommended for safely anchoring any vessel. I agree that you can get away with a lot less and we all often use as little as possible so we can get over that great bommie but I certainly wouldn't be relying on 1.5 * if I was overnighting for instance. In the long run its up to each individual to access the conditions as well as the possible conditions.

I don't use the bendable prong type anchors but they work well with bouy retreival especially if the ring is big enough to allow the anchor shaft to slide in to the ring. This way the weight of the chain keeps the anchor in the ring while you pull in the rope.

[Heath]

If you make the ring the right size, it won't go over the prongs of the anchor.

Check, HERE (http://www.users.bigpond.com/the_nest/anchorbuoy.wmv) to see it in action.

Should reshoot that footage, gets a bit bumpy there for a bit..hehe

[SeaSaw]

Like Jeremy, when fishing I anchor with as little rope as possible. If the anchor drags you just have to reposition. I have found that increasing the length of chain has stopped any problems I used to have with anchoring. I have gone from 6M of chain up to 10M and the extra chain lying on the bottom allows you to get away with less scope when fishing. If you have a good deckie on board, it is no problem pulling in the extra chain ;D ;D ;D

When anchoring overnight I go back to the recommended 5:1 to ensure safety.

Mark

[fishy_phil]

gday fellas.

i fish out of a 14ft brooker with a evinrude 30 on the back. with the anchor we always have it tripped but even still the last time we went out we had the chain get jammed with a big NE front closing fast with the wind rapidly increasing and having the rope attatched to the front when we first tried nearly tipped the bloody boat. the only thing that saved us fron tippin was the swell comin in and correcting us. and had then had to tie it to the back which eventually got the bloody thing off... with the outboard at full revs, heading into the wind so there was less risk of water comin over the back. but that being said with a bigger boat it may be better for it to be tied to the front but with this boat there is no way im tieing it to the front in that boat again. with the set up we have its a tripped anchor, about 5 meters of chain then just silver rope, and have about twice the rope out compared to depth. this way is the way that works best for me and most of the other blokes i fish with do it this way too.
but as you can see it isnt perfect but that is only about the second time in about 15 years weve had any trouble with it. and have never lost a pick yet!!!
cheers
phil

[Mr__Bean]

A couple of items from my experiences.

I use the EZY-CLIP but initially found it extremely frustrating and cursed the hell out of it.

That was until I was advised to bend the spring a bit to relieve the tension on the pivot arm. Now it is fantastic.

For those that use one you will now what I mean, once I bent the spring leg back a bit and took off some of the spring tension it is now a dream. It is easy to put the rope on and off and even with the spring relief it doesn't ever slide back down the rope.

The other thing I do is attach the anchor chain to the base of the anchor, not the arm. Yes to the base, most anchors have have an attach hole there for this.

Then, align the chain up the arm and lock it in place with a couple of plastic tie-wraps at the point you would normally put the chain onto. By doing this, if the anchor is snagged badly the strength of the boat breaks the plastic tie-wraps and the anchor pulls out backwards.

Works a treat.

But make sure you carry tie-wraps in the boat. Otherwise you can also use heavy fishing line wrapped around a few times for the same effect, I prefer to use tie-wraps.

Pulling up a snagged anchor in a big swell becomes a precarious task otherwise.

Good Luck.

[jethro6641]

I am using and always have used the ball and ring technique and generally always let out a 3:1 ratio whilst bottom fishing. Can't say i have ever had a problem with not being able to see the ball. I simply reverse back a little until I can see the ball and then turn to the port side so the rope runs down the starboard side of the boat. Once it is running beside the boat I get my deckie to lift the rope with the gaff on to the side of the boat. I then motor away at moderate revs until the ball is back on the surface. Then simply turn the boat and move towards the ball so the deckie can retrieve it into the rear starboard corner of the boat. As alot of you have already said for safety i never tie off to the bollard and I use a prong reef anchor which will straigten if need be.

I like to use the kiss principle.

Cheers,

Jamie ;)

[Sportfish_5]

If you are going to buy a ring system have a look at the Anka Yanka. You can get it from all the BLA agency boatshops for about $45. Simple and works a treat. The eazy-clip can be a pain.

Here is a picie. You just slide the keeper up and slip your float onto you silver. Slide the keeper down and away you go ;D

Cheers

Greg

[dnej]

Hey Mr Bean,
Doesnt the clip stop at the anchor chain? Isnt that a hassle?

Gees this post has been great, has it not?
David

[Mr__Bean]

G'Day David,

Yep the clip stopping before the chain is a pain in the butt, especially if it is a big anchor with a heavy chain.

If I had my time over I would buy the ring type without doubt.

If stuck with the ezi-clip, then best you can do to make it easier to operate is relieve the spring tension as mentioned earlier.

Otherwise chuck it and buy the ring type.

- Bean

[finga64]

DazB,

<snip>

The solution to getting your anchor back is to use the correct size reef pick that will hold your boat in the swell and current but straighten under pressure to release. I've never had problems straightening my pick when required.

Cheers,

Jeremy

Me neither. The "breakable link" method, as described by DazB is widely employed in the UK and called a "rotten bottom" (somethink like me when I've been on the grog and curry ;-)

Reef anchors are rarely used there and this method works on rough ground with sand anchors. I used to attach a strip of courlene to the anchor warp and the anchor eye, strong enough to not be broken by hand or wave action, but weak enough to snap when powered on from the bow. The anchor warp itself is attached to the head of the anchor so if the anchor is stuck, a bit of power will snap the courlene and lift the anchor up, arse about face. Slack is neeed in the anchor warp between where the courlene is attached and the warp is attached to the head of the anchor.

It can take time to get it right (the strength of the "rotten bottom") but as I say, this method manages to pull sand anchors out of rough ground, so it should work easily with reef picks.

kev


Sorry fellas for bringing this up again but I looked at the links that have been advised for Adamy.
I do basicall the same as Kev. Don't know what courlene is but I'll describe what I do.

The same applies for both picks, the reefy and sand. I always attach the spliced eye or thimble of the working end of the anchor or head or whatever you'd like to call it. But it has to be the end that gets stuck. Then run the rope along the side of the anchor until it gets to the other end of the anchor. I then attach the rope to this end of the anchor with a 200mm cable tie. When you can't pull the p[ick up the normal way give an allmighty heeve and the cable tie breaks and the anchor comes up head first. Never had a problem :)
If the cable tie keeps breaking or letting go just use 2 or 3 ties instead of 1.
Just remember to carry some spares though.
I'm pretty sure that's exactly what Kev does but with cable ties.
Cheers then
Scott

[gawby]

Just a few pics of the ball and ring i use.
I drive past the rope and when the ball goes behind the boat i get going a bit and let the ball do the work.
Graeme ;)

[gawby]

closer look at the ring

[gawby]

Undo the sprig clip and put ring over rope

[gawby]

Attatch the clip back to the ring and let the ball go and do its work

[gawby]

When the ball gets to the anchor the ring slides over the chain and catches the anchor at the prongs.
I only use a small soft pronged anchor and have no trouble retrieving it. I also carry a heavier anchor incase needed.
Hope these pics help
Graeme ;)

[Adamy]

Thanks Gawby and Scott after about an hour or so of reading (all the different threads), I'm starting to get the idea. I'll set it all up and see how I go.

Thanks,

Adam

[Dignity]

Gawby, did you make that ring yourself. I have a solid ring and the thing stays on when fishing all the time but have thought about a different solution and never liked the ezi clip but your solution looks the goods.

sam

[gawby]

Sam,

I bought the whole thing from Whitewater Marine at Labradore on the Gold Coast. Dave reckoned it was the ducks nuts and he was right, it is so easy to use.
You only clip it on when you need it. If i am anchored up in the broadwater i put it on so as the dummies can see where my rope is.
The ring and clip are stainless of course and it cost me about $60- i think but money well worth it.
Graeme ;)

[Getout]

I nearly sank a centre console once using the old tie off and drive off method. I also ran over the rope and cut the whole bloody lot off another time when it was really stuck and I left it tied off at the bow. I now use a a plough anchor with the zip tie system and drive off slowly until the anchor trips, then up the speed till the anchor float catches the pick. A 6m glass boat with full transom is not in danger of flipping when you tie off at the rear bollard.

[seatime]

I nearly sank a centre console once using the old tie off and drive off method. I also ran over the rope and cut the whole bloody lot off another time when it was really stuck and I left it tied off at the bow. I now use a a plough anchor with the zip tie system and drive off slowly until the anchor trips, then up the speed till the anchor float catches the pick. #A 6m glass boat with full transom is not in danger of flipping when you tie off at the rear bollard.

when tying off to the stern it's not flipping you need to worry about, it's the pulling under and swamping.
not really a safe practice when anchor retrieving, it might work 9/10 times, but that 10th time!!!!

rgds

[Chimo]

"Reposted' Same Question about rings with about a dozen starters so far, we just need someone who can handle the requests, collect money ie credit cards etc and arrange delivery of these to those who want these sent Aust wide..

Anchor Retriever "Split Ring Type" Question
« on: 15. Sep 2006 at 12:04 » Following an earlier thread about the subject of anchors a few Ausfishers have been trying to find where to obtain the "Split Ring" anchor retriever ring that can be added to or taken off the warp anywhere along its length. See picture below.

After a lot of hunting and not finding a source that sells these a search was made for a manufacturer who would build these rings out of suitable stainless steel.

The search has been succcessful and there now is a need to find out what level of interest there may be in purchasing these so an order can be given to the manufacturer

It is anticpated that they would cost approx $20 to $25 ea depending on the number to be made.

These rings will lift and float an anchor and chain so that the warp, chain and anchor can then be pulled aboard the boat either at the bow or over the side. The system is especially usefull for solo boating or to save the deckie from having to lift and haul the warp, chain and anchor off the bottom and then pull it into the boat.

The "split ring" type allows the retriever to be installed anywhere along the warp rather than having to put it on before using the anchor and then having to feed all the chain and warp through the ring. Abnother type, a spring loaded clip based retriever can also be added to the warp any where but they do not allow chain to pass the clip and they also have a habit of unwinding warp. Plus if they are fitted wrongly they lock rather than slide along warp.

If you already have a retriever float and ring the "split ring" would just clip on to that. If you are starting from scratch you can use a 20 lt acid bottle or a bouy float and make up your own. The split ring is what really makes it work.

So given all the above,
How many of you would purchase one or more of these "spring clip" retriever rings if they were available?

If yes, please indicate the number that you want.

Depending on the response, manufacture of an appropriate number can then happen.

If you have questions please ask, on the thread or PM

Thanks for your interest.

Cheers

Chimo

[Craigo]

I just use the key hole type clip -works fine you just have to put a cable tie at the small end where it attaches to the float so it doesn't spin around. The shape of the keyhole slides straight up the flat shaft of the anchor ( I use a SARCA) and holds it perfectly. Easy to get on and off.

Cheers

[dnej]

I went ahead with the Anka Yanka.You can put this one on and off as you please.Works well.
David

[Tony_N]

Hey David

I have the "keyhole" type. Just wondering about the function of the little lug on the side of the Anka Yanka ??

Tony

[dnej]

Tony,that is so you can attach a light rope,and bring it back to the cabin,if you want to recover the bouy.
Great stuff.
David

[bidkev]

<snip>

Sorry fellas for bringing this up again but I looked at the links that have been advised for Adamy.
I do basicall the same as Kev. Don't know what courlene is but I'll describe what I do.

<snip>
I'm pretty sure that's exactly what Kev does but with cable ties.
Cheers then
Scott


Scott, yeah we're the same. Courlene is simply the stuff that crab pots and nets are made out of. I used to have different breaking strains for different swells/currents as they could be pretty well assessed from tide tables in the UK and over a period of time you would get to know which bs to use at any given tide...too weak and it would snap in a rough swell and your anchor would be pulling, too strong and you would be knackering yourself trying to snap it.

Since this thread started and because I am not experienced enough to know what kind of conditions I may meet out there on any given day, I now use the cable ties......primarily because I now have 220hp to snap 'em ;D

kev

[Brissyguy]

I use the D clip without the ring as shown in Gawby's 2nd pic.

Our boat is over 2.5 tonne and we havent had a problem yet even in 100m of water.

Luckily we have an electric chain winch for shallower water in the bay and only use the drive away with reef pick in the deeper water.

Like Mark, we upgraded to 8m of 10mm chain to avoid dragging the anchor.

Cheers,
# # Rich.

[bidkev]

Gawby, did you make that ring yourself. I have a solid ring and the thing stays on when fishing all the time but have thought about a different solution and never liked the ezi clip but your solution looks the goods.

sam


One of the major problems for me was having a bloody big ball (stowage) permanently attached to the rope as previously I was using just a large ss ring. I overcame this by adding a large karabiner to the ball and its rope as I am a tight-arsed bugger and already had a number of karabiners left from my early days...I could then clip the ball on and off as I pleased. The anchor warp easily pulled through the karabiner. The anka yanka which I haven't seem before now looks the goods for me as this fulfills the same purpose as the karabiner

kev

[Dignity]

Gawby, did you make that ring yourself. #I have a solid ring and the thing stays on when fishing all the time but have thought about a different solution and never liked the ezi clip but your solution looks the goods.

sam


One of the major problems for me was having a bloody big ball (stowage) permanently attached to the rope as previously I was using just a large ss ring. I overcame this by adding a large karabiner #to the ball and its rope as I am a tight-arsed bugger and already had a number of karabiners left from my early days...I could then clip the ball on and off as I pleased. The anchor warp easily pulled through the karabiner. #The anka yanka which I haven't seem before now looks the goods for me as this fulfills the same purpose as the karabiner

kev

Gawby, many thanks, I tend to use the float permanently offshore but like Rich use the anchoe winch in shallow water. Would still like the option of disconnecting quickly and probably move to your system.

Kev, what in blazes is a Karabiner. As I can be a tight-arsed bugger (especcially when coponents cost cents and they charge $$$$$'s for a finished product) I am intensly interested.

Sam

[gawby]

Sam,

A karabiner wouldn't be much cause poms don't spend much ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Kev,

Talking about storing things, if you haven't got enough room in that launch of yours to store things well something is wrong. ;D ;D ;D ;D
Have to catch up one day for a chat 8-) 8-) :) :) [smiley=gossip.gif] [smiley=gossip.gif]
Graeme ;)

[Fat Chilli]

This is a Karabiner, I'm an Ex-Pom and have several, so they must be cheap. Stainless versions aren't expensive.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/ausjeep/images.jpg

[Angla]

I must admit that I use one of those pre twisted funny looking clips on the anchor retreival ball. I t has frustrated me on some days with the fact that it can work its way up the chain and be a real pain to get off. I have since spliced a 3 inch ring into the rope at the joint to the chain. This stops the thing from going onto the chain. The fact that it will not go in the reverse direction on the rope is good as it always ends up in this position. This also allows me to set the distance it is in front of the bow while at rest. (normally 6-7 metres).
When I drive off, I initially turn port then straighten to bring the buoy down the Starboard side of the boat and watch the rope to keep it clear of the prop. This causes an arching effect to the turn and if the anchor is stuck it forces the boat to turn harder. The boat will continue to turn until the anchor lets go., Some days this has been more than a 360 degree turn but the anchor has always popped at some point.
It has straightened prongs on the reef pick and bent the shaft on a sand pick to near 90 degrees with this method.
I use standard sized anchors for a 5.75 metre vessel.

P.S. I have several splices in the rope where the prop has cut the rope for me. Each time this happens the one way clip has retained the rope for retreival and then a second attempt.
The plain ring method may not allow for this error in judgement. I'm not perfect. Are YOU!

Chris

[bidkev]

Sam,

A karabiner wouldn't be much cause poms don't spend much ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Kev,

Talking about storing things, if you haven't got enough room in that launch of yours to store things well something is wrong. ;D ;D ;D ;D
Have to catch up one day for a chat 8-) 8-) :) :) [smiley=gossip.gif] [smiley=gossip.gif]
Graeme ;)

Yeah, that'd be good Graeme. I'm having a week down the Pin at new year. Plenty of storage space in the rig but the anchor locker is too small to store a float as Ive got big balls. ;) ;D

kev

[Dignity]

thanks for the explanations Kev, Fat_chilli. Did have one of those but loaned it to a mate when I showed himn how to anchor down sth stradddie way so he could retireve his boat regardless of tide but never got it back.

Gawby, I keep a platic garbage bin in the back and feed the rope a,chain and anchor into it as I retrieve it. Use it as a bleeding bin between uses.

[Angla]

Took a pic of the whole setup.