Hard to re-start 140hp Yammie after anchoring

[Fast_Freddie]

Hey guys this nearly drove me crazy yesterday, can you help? [smiley=bigcry.gif]

Got a 140hp Yamaha.

Get to the boat ramp and start her up - no problems.
Drive around to likely spot (about 40mins) - no problems.
Drop the anchor, cup fo tea with Wifey - no problems and no fish.
Had trouble re-starting. Engine turns over, just would not fire.
Finally starts but, wouldn't idle forward (to retreive the anchor) and sometimes when dropped into gear, stopped.
Once underway it never missed a beat but everytime we stopped and tried to restart the same thing happened.

Any ideas?

[smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Fred

[TasFisho]

Sounds like a fuel blockage, if not in the lines it maybe in the idle circuit of the carbies if it has carbs, if its efi then still sounds like it will be in the idle circuit. Hope that helps :)

[JasonT]

Hi!
I'm no expert, but I can suggest you check:

Idle mix / Idle adjust
Plugs and plug leads.
Compression.


The fact that it's running ok at revs is good in one way, as it would indicate no catastrophic failure.
Having said that however, I have known a motor to have the same symptoms and the fault ended up being a cracked head.
Hope it's not the case here!
As I said, I'm no expert, but I hope this helps!

JT

[Cheech]

Simmilar to what I had once. Was because the mix was too rich.

[PADDLES]

g'day freddie, i have been having the same problems with a 1992 v6 merc. drives ya insane doesn't it. i've found that for me (after being suggested on a post on here) it was simply getting the "knack" of starting it.

i used to panic a little at it not starting and pump up the fuel bulb, use the choke (which is a solenoid that drips fuel directly into the next carby down in a merc) and consequently flood the krap out of the poor thing.

i now give it about 3 seconds on the choke to get some fuel in there, don't touch the primer bulb at all and give it a kick in the guts with my other hand on the hand throttle. the second it fires i give it a tiny bit of hand throttle to get it away and cleared and it purrs away nicely.

i've found my problem to be worse for the first stop after a long run. say i run from home over to the front of redcliffe, stop the motor and do a drift then go to start it again, it'll be difficult to start. i'll idle to my start point again for another drift and then after that it'll start like a champion, but i'll still give it a bit of hand throttle.

i know i don't have the same motor as you, but i hope that maybe my solution to this frikken annoying problem helps you out.

ps. i checked all the usual stuff to find a solution, ie. fuel filter, primer bulb, spark plugs first and this is the only thing that has worked for me. ;)

[harry_h01]

I had a similar problem with my 97 Johno.

It turned out to be a cracked stator.

I had it replaced, and never missed a beat since.

The problem I had, was diagnosed as similar to a broken spark plug lead. When it is cold, the stator is ok, when hot, the stator expanded and therefore didn't work.

Food for thought.

Harry

[whiteman]

When my Yammie did a similar thing it turned out to be gunk in the carbies. 3 different motor shops in TSV tried to diagnose the problem (different mix, new plugs, test compression, etc, etc) until I demanded one of them clean the carbies. And just like magic it now runs purrrfectly. There is some dirty fuel up this way.

[Spaniard_King]

Fred,

What have you tried to do to get it started the second time??

Do you pump up the fuel bulb again if so is it soft?? Your descriptions sounds as if it starts and runs fine when cold but after stopping is hard to start. If you have good a good fuel bulb (ie dosnt take to #much to get it hard again) you can most likely discard the fuel system. By priming the bulb again when the engine has been used could tell us vital information in giving a diagnosis of the problem. It is possible that the fuel is siphoning back into the tank when sitting for a while. Does the smoke a lot when you get her started?? as it could be pumping extra oil into the carbs to compensate for the lack of fuel when starting , this will also make it hard to start.

cheers

Garry

[Mr__Bean]

Agree with the post above, before any adjustments or changes you must first ascertain the true cause.

When it does start does it smell rich in fuel? Does it smoke? Or is it lean?

If rich then it could be the needle and seat allowing the residual fuel pressure to bleed off into the carby's and flood the engine on the next start.

If it is lean then it could be draining back as previously mentioned.

A lot depends on how it re-starts.

- Darren

[Juzo]

I had a similar problem recently, was the same thing, trouble starting after I stopped, turned out it was bad electrics. >:(
Had a bad connection on the battery and wasn't getting good current.
being that it was a job I had done, it seemed I suffered a bit of operator trouble :)

[Fast_Freddie]

Geez guys,
Talk about putting me on an emotional rollercoaster!
You have given me everything from crap in the carbies to cracked head . . (LOL)

Firstly thanks for the fast replys.

I suspect it is fuel difficiency. The fuel bulb never get to being hard - firm, but not hard (as the actress siad to the Bishop . .)

I get it to start the way 'Paddles' described it exactly and once it starts, with a bit of hand throttle there isn't any undue amounts of smoke.

Nothing that would make me think it is burning oil.

Fred

[Fishin_Dan]

I had similar problems due to carbies being stuffed, but Garry is the man. If anyone can help you, he can.

[troy]

Might not have anything to do with your problem but i have seen on a lot of occasions and i do not know why but it has happened to me .
If you have the motor fully trimmed down for some reason it is easier to start.
Why i would not have a clue but i have seen it happen plenty of times people trying to start there motors semi trimmed and will not start.
Trim the motor down and fires straight away.
Laugh if you wish but i have seen this many times.
Troy

[Fast_Freddie]

Might not have anything to do with your problem but i have seen on a lot of occasions and i do not know why but it has happened to me .
If you have the motor fully trimmed down for some reason it is easier to start.
Why i would not have a clue but i have seen it happen plenty of times people trying to start there motors semi trimmed and will not start.
Trim the motor down and fires straight away.
Laugh if you wish but i have seen this #many times.
Troy


Hey Troy,
After the fifth move yesterday I would have put eggs on the motor if someone told me it would help!
Drove me mad - fair dinkum.

[smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Fred

[Getout]

I had a motor that was harder to start when trimmed right down. It even idled slower when trimmed right down. I think it was caused by exhaust back pressure that increased as the motor was lowered.

[troy]

I had a motor that was harder to start when trimmed right down. It even idled slower when trimmed right down. I think it was caused by exhaust back pressure that increased as the motor was lowered.
I had a 200 hp Mariner that did the same thing.
Troy

[PADDLES]

have a quick look in the bowl of your fuel filter fred, to check out what garry is saying about the primer bulb letting mixed fuel back down into the tank. mine was full of fuel stained with oil so that's why i replaced the primer bulb (new bulb and a couple of hose clamps will be around 15 bucks) and the engine is definitely less smoky/rich to start. i'm going to live with the way mine is for now and just use the starting method i described earlier. at least i know that it will start (i used to panic that it wouldn't) :)

[Brissyguy]

Hi Freddo,

Sounds like you need an expert to have a look at it.

I had a similar problem (twice) with a 135 Johnson many years ago that turned out to be 2 completely different problems with very similar symptoms.

The first one was a broken plug lead that when cold make a perfect connection, but once the motor was warm, the lead swelled to the extent that connection was broken.

Second problem was fixed by replacing a perforated primer bulb, it had a pin hole and whilst it didnt leak or drip fuel, it allowed air into the syetem causing the fuel to drain back out of the carbies almost like a vacuum.

Good luck mate.

Cheers,
Rich.

[Fast_Freddie]

Hi Freddo,

Sounds like you need an expert to have a look at it.

I had a similar problem (twice) with a 135 Johnson many years ago that turned out to be 2 completely different problems with very similar symptoms.

The first one was a broken plug lead that when cold make a perfect connection, but once the motor was warm, the lead swelled to the extent that connection was broken.

Second problem was fixed by replacing a perforated primer bulb, it had a pin hole and whilst it didnt leak or drip fuel, it allowed air into the syetem causing the fuel to drain back out of the carbies almost like a vacuum.

Good luck mate.

Cheers,
# #Rich.


Rich,
Great to hear you mate.

I reckon between you , Paddles, and Garry you have my problem sussed.

Had a good day at the Melbourne Cup so will look at the issues tomorrow . . . . late tomorrow (know what I'm sayin' ?)

Tnhaks bo . . . . oh geez . . . Thanks boys, much appreciated.

[smiley=beer.gif] [smiley=chinese.gif]

Fred