Outboard Engine Rebuilds

[DaMaGe]

I have a Johnson/OMC 1996 V4 90HP 2-stroke oil injected outboard looking for a rebuild of a power head as one of the compression rings has lost it's grip and decided to be a nasty bastard. Compression is really down, I have been told around 60PSI etc on that 1 cylinder, the others are normal.

Starts and runs OK, however this thing is ready to blow so I need to get a rebuild.

I have had 1 quote of about $3k and that is without pulling the powerhead off only to reveal that perhaps they can charge me much much more. #:(

I am looking for people or company's that are in the industry of rebuilding outboard engines, I need a great job but really don't need the major expense. Anyone know of a retired mechanic or perhaps someone who works from there own garage/home to reduce some of the middleman and over rated costs of a rebuild, or does anyone know of a Johnson mechanic, as every other place is and only interested in mercurys. Doing a search for "outboard engine rebuilds" don't really show alot in the yellowpages.

Around Brisbane/Ipswich but even prepared to travel down to say the Gold Coast or whatever to get this sorted for under $3k

[Roughasguts]

Mate have you checked the comps yourself.
Borrow a gauge or buy one, and check it your self.

So if your boat runs and starts great what happened to get someone to check the comps. Just a little curious as to how you got this advice.

The comp may well be down, or the guy is looking for buisness, I would check it out a little further.

For a start you could remove the plugs, check them for colour, and water.
Then get a pen light torch and take a look see at the top of your pistons, Check for damage, or carbon build up. Then the bores for scratching.

Hell you may only have done a head gaskett, and that ain't no 3000 bucks.

Good luck.

[DaMaGe]

Good point;

This time last year, when it was due for its service was told the same thing.
Have been running the boat for 12 months with low compression on 1 piston and it's been OK, not a problem.

However I have noticed it to be more Smokey and other then changing to Shell oil couldn't figure it out, it is oil injected too.

The compression has been said to be worse then it was a year ago and have been told it's defiantly time for the rebuild.

I have noticed that the motor does not purr when at idle, however that’s why it needs a service as my leads have been playing up as well as the requirement for new plugs etc.

I think it's best to obtain some more quotes as you said, but do I take the motor/boat to any boat shop? Does anyone come recommended?

[FNQCairns]

Golden seal SA I think does swaps or I believe www.goldenseal.com.au or buy a full rebuild kit from the states (cheap and quality) then enlist a mobile guy to do the work for you.

Forget the name of the place in brisvegas that do quality machining work (if you send the stuff yourself it's heaps cheaper).
Fair few options depending on how you would like to proceed.

Dont think $3k will get you a full rebuild at a dealers more like a time bomb but ok for a while. But 3 grand will get you a very close to a full and quality rebuild if you get involved a bit yourself.

First order of business is to KNOW why it did it in the first place, these things just shouldn't happen until near 5k hours, if yours is still a pup at 1500 hours best to find what was the cause last thing a person needs is repeatabilty on a new engine.

cheers fnq

[jon80]

mate, must have a good crystal ball to quote without stripping first (how long is a piece of string) . as a outboard mechanic would recommend taking to your mechanic or dealer to get stripped then you know exactly what is req. to reco......

[DaMaGe]

Actually, have no idea how many hours it's done. There doesn't seem to be any gauges for it for hours. Is there anyway to tell?

[finga64]

It's a shame about the motor. It looks like a well cared for motor as there's not even paint worn off the skeg.
Is it mounted on a wooden boat??
I love wooden boats. Very under-estimated in my opinion :)
A quick look at Golden seal and they're out as they're about $4k.
Is would be really hard for a mechanic to do a proper quote without first inspecting. But by the sounds head work, a rebore and a new set of pistons/rings may be needed at the least if what he says is right.

Or as rough as guts said you may only need a head gasket or something silly like that and the smokyness is only an adjustment on the injection gear.

What do the plugs look like when they're removed. Are 3 nice and clean and 1 black or are they all black??
But how can you tell what needs to be done unless you do surgery??

Still can't get over the fact that the paint hasn't worn off the skeg...or prop....amasing :)
Cheers Scott :)

[DaMaGe]

The picture is 18mths old and there is now paint missing down on the skeg and prop.

The boat is a 15" Hartley half cabin, there are a few embarrassing photos here :> http://users.bigpond.net.au/pauldee/

The plugs all come out fairly oily actually, so not one of them comes out clean however there is no carbon build up on the plugs and they appear clean in that manner, there is no different between any of the plugs.

There is no water residue around the plug holes or plugs themselves, so she's just thrown a ring, but no idea why, perhaps when I brought the boat 24mths ago it was already like this and I only found out 6mths after I brought it (my first service) that compression was down and it had appeared the compression ring was scratching the side of the bore but I continued to run it as runs perfectly.

I believe a change of plugs, a tune up, and checking of the oil injections would have the engine back in the water, the same as it has been running the previous 12 mths, which was fairly reliable, maybe once or twice I had to wind it over, or change spark plugs on board when the thing oiled up or was hot but I would be motoring away again,,, but now I am concerned it may blow or throw something out through the side of the engine etc. also how could I sell it knowing there was engine damage, that kind of thing doesn't sit well with me.

My wife mentioned it would make a great cubby house in the back yard. #:(

However I really just want to go and fix the thing without having to cost me more then half what the boat and engine is worth put together.

[Roughasguts]

Any outboard tech schools around your area.

It be a good class project for a couple of days, Diagnosis, strip and repair.
Re-fit and your back on the water, for nuthen other than lose some time.

[finga64]

Mate, that's really nice boat ::)
Love the picture of the kiddies seat in the back :)
And that's one huge catfish ;D Did you eat him?? They amasingly good on the tooth :)

[finga64]

Another option would be to repower your boat. There's some 90's for sale in the for sale section that have been rebuilt and may suit. #:)

[billfisher]

First order of business is to KNOW why it did it in the first place, these things just shouldn't happen until near 5k hours, if yours is still a pup at 1500 hours best to find what was the cause last thing a person needs is repeatabilty on a new engine.

cheers fnq

I don't quite agree that 1500hrs is too early for a rebuild. Its definitely on the cards for a two stroke at those hours and can happen with lower hours (ie its on the card at any anything over 1000 hours).

[FNQCairns]

Hi Billfisher, Yes it's correct although viewed from the outboards position not from the majority of owners who on the whole actively set about killing the motor from the first day they get it.

The motor may be a little rattly by 5k but should with continued proper treatment push to 7k or so (or it might thow a rod, snap a skirt or snag a ring in the last 2k to 7) The gamble if treated correctly (CORRECTLY FROM THE ENGINES POINT OF VIEW) starts around 5k.
Anything less not counting overheats, oil starvation, poor fuel system maintenance or manufacturing faults finally rearing their heads like porosity. Manuf faults are fairly rare past the first few 10s of hours anyway.
damage's engine above for example was killed by the previous owner abuse with carbon and too high piston crown temps, the equation is solid and simple and repeatable but goes against common perception and marketing and boater culture. Corrosion can very often kill an outboard before powerhead wear and tear if it is not owner abused.

Harsh to a lot of owners I know but true and repeatable time and time again almost without exception.

cheers fnq

[DaMaGe]

The head is off, it's not just a gasket.

Piston 1 compression ring has let go and has damaged the piston and slightly scratched the bore and damaged the top of the piston as you can see by the attachment

The other 3 pistons are perfect, however would prolly need to be re-ringed etc.

So now I need the powerhead taken off to confirm any other damage not seen by just taking the head off, but one mechanics point of view is little damage has occured which sounds hopeful.

Now whom does one contact to get the bore re-shaven etc. Anyone know of a place that does this professionally?

[Spaniard_King]

Damage,

When the engine has been stripped you can take it to any engine reconditioner to have it bored. Best Idea is to get the piston you will be using (probably oversize) then take it with the block to the engine reconditioner and ask him to bore it to the size of the piston with the correct piston to bore clearance as per OMC's specifications

Garry

[ryank]

hey mate. i would try marine worx at capalaba. they will asess the situation give u a call and price and see wat u want to do from there. 3206 4460.

[Owen]

You might want to give Serco a ring. 3823 3833.
They can probably sell you a Wiseco piston and do the rebore.
That way at least you know you have the right size ;)

cheers,
Owen

[DaMaGe]

Update :- Took it to a mobile mechanic, whom I had used before with a previous boat; he quoted about $1,600.00 to fix it, which is a great saving. Has stepped me through the entire operation and happy with the works so far. Just hoping to pick up the head from the bore engineers later this week to start placing it back together etc.