Snapped Wheel STUD!

[Smelly]

Can't take a trick at moment... :-/

I look down at my 2 month old axle assy (with new wheel rims, hubs etc) and see one of my wheel studs cleanly snapped off! :-[

How the hell do I repair this one? # :'( :'(

Smelly

[Roughasguts]

Get a Punch and knock it through.

Then get another wheel stud, line up the splines and hit it back in with a hammer.

[Blackened]

G'day
Take the wheel off, you should be able to tap/bash the stud out off the face of the hub no worries. Take it down to the bolt place/wheel place and they should be able to find you a replacement. Just replace so it looks like the others ;)

Dave

[Smelly]

Hi GUTS!

How do they brake?

How can I prevent others from braking?

What woudl the condtion of the other studs be like then - if this one has broken?

When u say - line up splines - what splines?

Smelly

[Roughasguts]

To tight will break them, pull up the nut to much, and a bit of load on the rim and Snap. Not very common though.

You will see the splines when you knock the old one out. Just straight grooves to stop the stud from spinning in the wheel hub, when you tighten the wheel nuts, Tis easy mate.

[finga64]

Replace as mention above but don't knock the new stud in with a whackometer.
Slide the stud in from the back of the hub and then place a socket or something over the stud (snug fit over the thread) and then a washer and put a nut (flat bit on the washer and pointy end towards end of stud) on the stud and tighten the nut a tad. Check the stud has started to draw into the hub straight and if it has start tightening. Stop tighteneing when it get real hard as this may be the end of the job. Easy as.
Cheers Scott #:)

[gone_fishing]

hey smelly
make sure you get the same thread on the new stud and the same length shank ( the non threaded section at the base of the stud with the splines) if you get one that the shank is to long nut will bottom out feel tight but not hold the wheel
its a reasonable easy job as descibed above
;D

[Smelly]

THanks Boys..

Hopefully - no overheating here... ;)

Will let u know of outcome..

Smelly

[gone_fishing]

studs usely break due to being over tightened
be firm not brutal ;D
should check regular as part of pre trip checks
all the best :)

[Dignity]

Gone_fishing - think better revise my procedures - missus bought me compressor and all the tools a while back and have been using them to tighten the nuts, only problem - no torsion wrench and going on gut feel. Oh well back to the good old days with the tosion wrench.

sam

[Eagle]

Studs will also break if Anti-sieze has been used on the threads and on the nut mating surfaces. This stuff reduces the friction so much (by a factor of 5) that the studs can be easily tightend to an extreme overload and can be stressed up to their yield point. If this happens, only a small shock load will snap the studs.
HOWEVER. ---
It is essential that a broken stud is replaced with a GENUINE factory stud or equivalent stud. Dont use a CHEAP replacement from a cheap auto parts store. These cheap studs are made in India and similar places and may not (usually never) be up to the Aussie standard for safety and strength. Even more important, DONT EVER use a stud that does not have a rolled thread. ie, dont use a stud that has been machined up from an engineering shop.

Eagle

[nicko233]

smelly when you put the stud in from behind the hub spin it and you will fell the splines line up.give a little tap then put the wheel nut on repeat process until firm finish wheel nuts by hand on everything.


nicko

[StevenM]

Smelly

I would hate to be the one to say this mate but I think it is about time you stoped playing with boats...

Some one is trying to tell you something

Thats right..think about it

The sad thing is I dont know what I can recomend that you do. Could say kniting but you would probably take out one of your eyes

Mate find that chinaman and say sorry

[Roughasguts]

I think in Smellys case, what ever can go wrong. Will go wrong.
But he ain't no quiter.

[Smelly]

Thanks Hi-Yo.

I know you're not alone in your thoughts - but I am used to it -

If I listened to all those people (work collegues, family, teachers, etc. ) in my life for the past 20 years who have stated similar things about me and the directions I take in life - I would have rotted away in a grave six feet under a long time ago....

Maybe it's because I am not afraid to ask those 'silly' questions and highlight some obvious gaps in my understanding of boating that I get feedback like this.... that's OK.. ;)

You will continue to see more 'silly' questions from me - cause I ain't quitten!
Thanks GUTS for the support!

Smelly

[Smelly]

Studs will also break if Anti-sieze has been used on the threads and on the nut mating surfaces. This stuff reduces the friction so much (by a factor of 5) that the studs can be easily tightend to an extreme overload and can be stressed up to their yield point. If this happens, only a small shock load will snap the studs.
HOWEVER. ---
It is essential that a broken stud is replaced with a GENUINE factory stud or equivalent stud. Dont use a CHEAP replacement from a cheap auto parts store. These cheap studs are made in India and similar places and may not (usually never) be up to the Aussie standard for safety and strength. Even more important, DONT EVER use a stud that does not have a rolled thread. ie, dont use a stud that has been machined up from an engineering shop.

Eagle


How can I tell genuine from non-genuine?
Where can I get the genuine studs from?

[Roughasguts]

Tyre place should have quality wheel studs, bet they break a few in the course of there work.

[Mr__Bean]

If you suspect that it is due to overtightening then I would either change them all, or buy some extra studs and keep your eye on the rest of them.

- Darren

[Smelly]

THanks.

I am about to head off and buy 10 genuine wheel studs..

Many thanks for your continuee advice...

Smelly

[Smelly]

Back from shop.

Cannot punch this sheared stud out... >:(

ANy ideas why it won't come out?

Smelly

[Smelly]

Best place to rest jack onto?

Tried on axle but becuase of it's slight slant - unable to rest straight edge on axle..

Smelly

[finga64]

Back from shop.

Cannot punch this sheared stud out... # >:(

ANy ideas why it won't come out?

Smelly



You need a bigger whacker then matey #:D

Place an axle stand either side of the spring hangers on the main chassis/frame and put a bit of weight on the axle with the jacket just to try and steady the axle a tad when you give it the good old smacko.

You are trying to whack the old stud towards the spring aren't you old mate??

I'll have to say Smelly, you must have learnt a lot in the last year. And as my old grandad taught me "you can't learn without asking questions"
Don't ever stop asking the questions as other may learn with you. #:)
Cheers Scott

[Smelly]

HI Finga.

wacking stud from outside inwards towards center of boat..

is it possibel that the stud is stuck somehow (by thread or something else)?

There has to be many proverbs around questions/knowledge, etc..

As they say - knowledge is POWER!

I want to be more powerful than all of you put together! :D

Smelly

[Smelly]

Best place to rest jack onto when raising rig?

[station-rat]

Hi Smelly
Take the hub off the axel--Don,t hammer on the bearings :-[. Place the offending stud on something solid and then hammer away :P (piece of pipe, open vice jaws)
Station-rat

[Roughasguts]

You could put the wheel back on, and let the tyre take the weight of the boat again. That ought to hold it steady to give it a nice straight hit.

More power to you Smelly.
Get your twin brother to hold the punch.

[Eagle]

Hi Smelly,
Do follow Station Rats' advice about removing the hub to then bash the old stud out of the hub. If you try hitting the stud with the hub on the axle you will absolutely DESTROY the bearings. The stud will come out if you place the hub on a very solid base to suport it. Do NOT use any heating torch to assist in removal of the stud. The heat will ruin the other studs as they will be heat treated for maximum strength. I myself would never try to pull the new stud into the hub by winding on a nut with a spacer as sugested. The pressure to pull the stud into the hub can exceed the normal pressure applied when tightening the nut as when replacing the tyre/wheel. Using the nut and spacer might work if the splines are lined up but I still wouldn't use this method. I have never had any problems driving the studs in with a knockometer.
Machined studs are identified by the absence of a short taper at the end of the thread.The diameter of the stud is smaller than the diameter of the threaded section. In a rolled thread the bottom of the "V" is squashed up to form the top part (crest) of the thread. It is this forming technique that gives the stud its strength as no metal is removed in producing the thread.
With a machined thread, the metal is removed to form the "V" of the thread. There is a constant diameter of stud along the shank and the threaded section. It's realy easy to identify which is which.
Eagle

[wayneoro]

go smelly

[SunnyCoastMark]

Smelly,
Just out of curiosty -
1) What stud pattern are your hubs?

2) Whta type of rims do you have?

Reason I ask is that if you have HQ hubs with geniune commodore wheels (ie mags) - you WILL break studs - the HQ and Commodore stud patterns are slightly different enough that they will go on, however tightening the nuts causes the studs to lean over slightly causing them to break after a few hundred/few thousand km's.

Mark

[SunnyCoastMark]

Smelly,
That stud should come out easy - especially if they are near new hubs. One possibility - and I haven't seen this for quite some time - is that they are a screw in stud.
Which is why it won't punch out.

The stud head isn't hex shaped by any chance?

I would be surprised if it was - but you never know.

Mark

[nevd]

Smelly, wheel studs can also break because they were too loose and so allowing the wheel to move on the hub.
If there is any sign of an old crack (now rusty and relatively smooth) across part of the broken surface, then the bolt has failed in fatigue from loose bolts.

[finga64]

Do a google for replacing a wheel stud and make up your own mind about driving a new stud in or drawing a new one in with a nut.
I didn't find anybody wanting to do a bash insertion of the new stud.

[gone_fishing]

hey smelly
no such thing as a silly question ;D
dont ask dont learn one simple question can save hours of heart ache
you metioned air tools dont use a rattle gun to do up wheel nuts or shouldnt im guilty :-X
make sure you do nuts up in a opposing order to even tention eg 1 ,3,5,2,4
spread the load eveenly
and if you use a rattle gun just nip them up and check with a bar
also i disagree with Eagle in one respect you should use some sort of anti sieze on threads to prevent corrsion
as a rusted stud will snap when taking off or strip theads which means new studs
a tention wrench is a good idea get a good feel
and try to get quality studs most auto trailer or marine outlets will/should have them
dont stop havein a go ;D
gone fishing

[StevenM]

Hey Smelly

Never said that your question was silly and never answered your question as others already have

my two cents worth...hammer it out from the outside (nut end) to the middle/ inside..should fall out really. re putting them in I have always pulled them in with the nut.

All I am saying is you are one unlucky bugger to have a two month old axel assembly break a stud

[Smelly]

Guys,

Too late. Already banged out stud with hub still in place.

I acted on the early advice I got from you guys - in this thread on page 1. :-[

Probably done the damage now... :'(

SMelly

[finga64]

Don't worry. If the bearings are good quality the chance of damage is next to nothing. :)
I've been doing the wacko method for years and years and so do most people and I've never heard of bearing damage because of the wacko.

[Roughasguts]

Geez mate that ain't no good, I hope you recover fully and it don't plague you any more. Bloody hell you never cease to amaze me. Thought the pic's of your mother in law where Bad.

[gunna]

Just as an aside - I've been reading caraven forums lately while I get ready to buy one.
I have been amazed by the number of people who have had studs shear off on their vans ?? Its certainly more common than you realise.

[Roughasguts]

Just as an aside - I've been reading caraven forums lately while I get ready to buy one.
I have been amazed by the number of people who have had studs shear off on their vans ?? Its certainly more common than you realise.

That be cause caravans are loaded up with more than the Kitchen sink. Way above there Max carrying capacity. You can only imagine what people put in side these things out of sight and out of mind.

[FNQCairns]

Well! guess that's the end of Smelly's mechanical adventures!

[Roughasguts]

So how long do these type of banishments, last for.

[FNQCairns]

Dunno.........

[Barnacle Billy]

Guys,

Trying to insert the new wheel stud - without luck.

Tried all things above - except removing hub - which is my last resort..

THougths?

[station-rat]

Hi Smelly
Is the new stud the same size as the old one?
Station-rat

[Barnacle Billy]

G'day Rat.
Yes. exactly same size. Even bought same studs off same guy who sold me the original hub assy..

Best way to remove damn hub?

[Barnacle Billy]

Here is what I tried:

1 - Slid stud in from back of hub
2 - Placed socket over stud with washer
3 - Put nut on stud and tightened a tad
4 - Checked stud started to draw into hub straight
5 - Started tightening and stopped when firm

Splines still have not come through fully.
I don't want to strip thread or kill the yield strength of stud.

THoughts?

How do I remove the hub?

[finga]

have a look on the back of the hub and see if the flange of the stud has stopped shy of the hub or is the flange hard up against the back of the hub.

[station-rat]

1. Tap off the grease cap
2 pull the split pin
3. undo the nut
4. remove the hub
5. rest the hub flange on something solid so that the stud can be driven through without damaging the thread
6. place the hub back on the axel
7. do up the nut until just firm , then back off the nut until the split pin will fit in a hole should be less that 1/6 of a turn
8. tap on the graese cap
9. finished
Station-rat

[Barnacle Billy]

Thansk Rat.

Finga - The splines fit half way but don't go further.

I can't remove the hub because the bottom bolt for caliper will not clear the leaf spring.

Now I have to jack/tilt up boat/trailer on one(1) side to compress that spring (alot) so that the bolt clears it so it can be taken out .. Too scary for me. How do I do this safely without it falling on me and damagaing the hull?

Thanks

[Barnacle Billy]

have a look on the back of the hub and see if the flange of the stud has stopped shy of the hub or is the flange hard up against the back of the hub.


Thae flange is about 6mm out from hub face - not flush against it. I have been re-assured by the dealer who supplied me wiht these new studs are the same as the original studs (which he also supplied)...

[station-rat]

Hey Smelly
How about a photo of the setup of the spring and caliper?????????
Station-rat

[station-rat]

Hey Smelly
Hope you don't mine me asking, but what job do you do for a living.??????
Station-rat

[Barnacle Billy]

Photo to come..

I fish for a living.

[Barnacle Billy]

DIfficult to get close in photos of the bottom bolt on caliper - so cannot supply.

[trilogy]

Barnicle
Is it a RM trailer with the caliper bolt next to the spring ?

[Barnacle Billy]

It is a dunbier trailer with original springs and new axle/hub assy.

[Barnacle Billy]

Here is a pic of the wheel studs:

Old (right), New (left).

What do u guys think - same spline detail?

[Barnacle Billy]

SOme picis of the spring/caliper bolt clearance

[finga]

What were you tightening the nut with to pull the stud through?? I hope it wasn't the shifter in the picture.
How much force were you using??
Have you got a tension wrench??
They take a bit of pulling in. A bit more force is needed to pull in then to whacking out and if my memory is correct you had a tad bit of trouble in the whacking out process.
A wheel brace should be able to pull them in no worries though.
I hope this isn't why the studs broke to start with. :(

[station-rat]

Smelly
I think your axel is a bit short and that is the source of your problem with the caliper bolts:-/
Station-rat

Diagram is from Spinny Things Catalogue

[Barnacle Billy]

THanks Station Rat.

SPinny things are the company who supplied me with the axle assy after they had sized it up for me.

THe shifter was used to undo the top/bottom caliper bolts.

When I began to feel fairly heavy resistance in tightening, I stopped - SHould I try again with brace?

Thanks

[Barnacle Billy]

Your thoughts on the spline profiles please?

[Barnacle Billy]

Just tried brace - no good.

What to do..?

[station-rat]

Splines look the same to me
If you look in the hole is it pushing a ridge of metal infront of the stud or does the hole look clean? If the hole is clean go with the wheel brace and a spacer against the front of the hub, with the wheel nut on backward , so you don't damage the taper
Station-rat

[trilogy]

Barnacle
The caliper bolt is the same as RM trailers and a pain in the @rse.
I had my hub off a while back and had to jack the axel up and loosen the u bolts to drop the springs out of the way to get at the bolt and use another jack to lift the spring back up and tighten the u bolts,Somthing I would hate to do on the side of the road.

[station-rat]

Why would they make a trailer like that. It becomes a major operation just to get the hubs off, to check bearings, replace pads.!!!!!!!!!
Just to save a few dollars on the shorter axel
Station-rat

[FNQCairns]

OOps posted in wrong topic

[Barnacle Billy]

Thanks Triology - Fkn wheel studs - Fkn Pain in BUTT on this axle assy!

Rat - I spent big money on this axle and did not want to spare any expense in this setup - but still got shafted!

Rat - hole is clean - the spline on old stud is 1mm longer - woudl this affect insertion?

[station-rat]

Hi Billy
How much short is the stud from being completely home against the back of the hub ?
Station-rat

[Barnacle Billy]

Hi Team.

Job done! - Just managed to squeeze bottom bolt out and remove hub.

Inserting wheel studs (all 5) in hub then took 3 min.

Thanks guys.

[finga]

wooohooo
well done Barnacle Billy
:laola:
Bet your a happy little camper now eh :happy:

[station-rat]

Well done Billy
Bet you hope you don't have to do that again on the side of the road.
Station-rat

[Barnacle Billy]

Thanks boys.

At least I know what to do next time - all in training I guess..

I am getting better at this boat stuff - despite what you all may be thinking...

As u know, there are many many aspects to keeping your boat/trailer in top health and condition..

Today's adventure will be to drain bad fuel out of my fuel tank, fasten the VRO unit into floor, prepare floor area for new pedestal seating and continue intermediate design of my new canopy....

Regards

[Roughasguts]

Hi Billy that's easy draining your fuel tank.

Stick a lengh of garden hose through the bung hole, then hook it up to your fuel tank out let. It's a much better flow than going up and over the transom, stick the old stuff in the car if it's only a few gallons.

Now Billy use a good sealer on those screws that go in to the wood when you mount that vro unit.
You don't wan't water getting in to the timber and causing Rot.

[Barnacle Billy]

Thanks GUTS-

Re: Tank - I can only see one(1) outlet - and that is on the floor (circular white plastic screw cap. THe hose through bung hole good idea.

[Roughasguts]

It would be easier Billy, if you took the engine fuel line off the tank.
And stuck the garden hose on that.
Raise the bow of the boat and maybe stick a jack under the trailer to slant the fuel towards the pick up point on the tank. That way you might get most of the fuel out.