Aluminium Trailer Build Tandem Axle (On a budget)

[gazza2006au]

Few weeks from now guys i will start my aluminium trailer build the only salvageable parts off my current tandem trailer are the drive train so here goes on a DIY home build on a limited budget of around $1500

Parts list
used parts i have
1x used mechanical braked axle (Will likely be converted to hydraulic) (front)
1x used rolling axle (rear)
4x used wheels which are 6.00-9 rated 510kg per tyre
2x twin mudguards

new items below
2x 6-6.5m lengths of 130mm I beam (Outside rails) $600
1x 6-6.5m 80x80x6mm SHS aluminium (Cross members) $350
1x length of 90x90x3mm SHS steel (drawbar) unsure $60?
2 sets of 1000kg springs (1800kg rating) $100
2 sets of U bolts and fish plates $65
a bunch of 80mm U bolts with nuts price not sure depends on length
a bunch of regular M12 HT bolts with nuts various lengths price not sure depends on length
couple lengths of 240mm pine sleepers from Bunnings (Bunks) $30?
carpet for above bunks $25?
set of led lights with attached wiring and plug $40
trailer coupling (Hydraulic with bottle) $100
hydraulic cable $95
missing spring hangers and spring support bar i already have angle iron to make the SB, unsure on which post so not design yet or cost

all up cost of new parts comes to $1465 plus the extra's i need, nuts, bolts, steel etc..

[gazza2006au]

Anyone know if there is one standard size brake mounting plate for all disc hubs or know where i could find the dimensions for bolt hole to hole and overall disc sizing?

my old mechanical brakes are no good reason i want to go hydraulic

[Fed]

Spruce up the old ones gazza.

[brett62]

https://www.colliermiller.com.au/category/agriculture/trailer-parts/axles-and-components/trailer-brake-mounting-flanges

gazza you can buy these and just weld on. There are different size rota's so you need to work out what size you require. This is governed by the capacity of the trailer and the required braking required in the ADR for trailers. As an example the trailer I just built it needed 12in to comply with what I was doing. If you haven't downloaded a copy of the ADR which is free, do so as being the builder you are responsible that the design complies with the standard's. Important you get it right as you can be in some serious trouble if the said trailer fails and causes a accident or injury as they will go hunting for the cause.

I am not trying to give you negative feedback just a heads up. Hell lots of people build their own trailers it's just something to keep in the back of the mind.

[Dignity]

Gazza, what grade ally you using, 5052 as a minimum for a trailer.

[catshark]

dimensions of outside rails and cross members sound spot on, the 3mm drawbar is a red flag for me. new trailers are going 100X100 draw bar by 5-6mm...maybe this sizing could be the new regulation, just a guess though. also am looking forward to your progress on this project.

[gazza2006au]

Fed u seriously reckon i could revive those brakes? They were disconnected when i towed the boat home so they may be seized they just look really rusty ay but i have never owened a braked trailer

[gazza2006au]

Brett i have read the ADR before but i missed the bit about disc sizing i just assumed all disc were the same untill today i seen 10" and i think 12"

[gazza2006au]

Dig it will be 5082 T5 or T6 not meant to bend it but my bends will only be slight bends

[gazza2006au]

Cat its going to be steel drawbar mate i could go all aluminium but i dont like the idea of a bolt on safety chain and if i ever need to whinh the boat on i dont want the drawbar to kink from the weight of the boat

[Gon Fishun]

The old calipers will clean up ok. 600. 9 wheels and tyres under a 2 ton boat??? What weight will the boat go when loaded??

[gazza2006au]

Hey Gon those 6.00-9 are rated to i think 2040kg total for 4 wheels, i dont actually know what my boat weighs mate i have done a little research on the boats american built name and a chart came up i got a rough idea of 1800lb's or just under 1 ton bare hull but who really knows i was also told the hains hunter 19 foot was a knock off of my hull it was just stretched that extra foot in length

[brett62]

Brett i have read the ADR before but i missed the bit about disc sizing i just assumed all disc were the same untill today i seen 10" and i think 12"

The ADR will refer you to Australian Standards for this and many other items. For the capacity trailer you are building 10" should do the job.

[gazza2006au]

Plan will be something like this, because the boat is long i have extended the A frame so its less degree bends on the i beams

[gazza2006au]

Kind of sitting on the fence about this one looking to buy the aluminium this week not sure if to go with 100mm or 130mm as i know i can bend the 100mm material i dont want to sink $750 in to the 130mm i beams and i ..... it up, Not sure if Capral Aluminium will sell me a cut of 1 meter to test bend of the 130mm i beam

also not sure weather to reuse my old drive train or just buy a new trailer build kit with a 1400kg single axle

what would u guys do? do u think 100mm i beam would be sufficent? current trailer is 100x50x3mm and 70x50x3mm RHS steel

[stevej]

What does the engineering design tell you to use
its not a option of guesswork its up to you know what's the minimum requirement to make a safe trailer

[catshark]

id go 130 mm personally, especially for fibreglass, how much cheaper is the 100mm , l forsee flexing and twisting if you skimp on proper hardware.

[Dignity]

Hey Gon those 6.00-9 are rated to i think 2040kg total for 4 wheels, i dont actually know what my boat weighs mate i have done a little research on the boats american built name and a chart came up i got a rough idea of 1800lb's or just under 1 ton bare hull but who really knows i was also told the hains hunter 19 foot was a knock off of my hull it was just stretched that extra foot in length
Gazza, it's not just the tyres but the rims also need to have a rating for the weight you are towing.

[gazza2006au]

Yeah i will duck into the local Capral when i get a chance maybe tomorrow to place my order i'll go with the 130mm and try bend it just like i did the 100mm stuff

Dig I'm either using my old drive train or looking to get a new single axle kit with ford rims, the wheels are rated 850kg each 1700kg total is more than i need axle will be rated either my old ones 2000kg or a 1400kg - 1600kg single axle

[gazza2006au]

Today i ran some 4 meter lengths of conduit just to get a feel for what king of angles i will be working with i laid the conduit out in the A frame fashion and took some degree notes i need to bend my i beams to 15 degrees

also remeasured my boat today and made sure i measured the hull this time not just laying a tape measure on the ground, to my surprise my booat measures 5.7 meters a little bigger than the original 5.5 meters i had measured

[Noelm]

What does the engineering design tell you to use
its not a option of guesswork its up to you know what's the minimum requirement to make a safe trailer
I think things change for one off home made, I know a guy that builds one off trailers, and he just builds them to his specs and has never had any trouble with registration, the rego papers simply state "home made" now, I really don't know for sure if insurance could be declined if you have an accident, or if the trailer broke, I think this home made business becomes a fuzzy grey area, I have built a couple of trailers and never had any trouble with rego either, but that said, who knows?

[Dignity]

In Qld you have to get a certifier to go over the trailer first before issuing 2 certificates, they take into consideration the tyres, rims, axles, braking system, size of bearers and cross members and heaps of other items. They are pretty cluey on whether the trailer will do the job. My last one is registered as make - unknown, insurance could be another issue as they would probably want design specs, engineering specs, and if built by yourself probably trade qualifications. They do not like to part with their money and will find a way out. I had mine changed on my policy without hassle by supply g as much info as possible.

[Noelm]

I do agree that some sort of measures need to be in place, but, I can speak from experience here in NSW, to register something that has either never been registered, or registration has expired for some time, you need to get a "blue slip" which is usually done by some auto rego people that do your annual "pink slip" not all places do blue slips. All you do it turn up with your trailer, with a weigh bridge certificate, the tester checks for brakes, lights, tyres and the usual stuff, now, to be 100% fair, I have never tried to register a big trailer, as in something that is going to be over 3T, but I have done a couple of dual axle jobs, and it was a breeze, back in the "old days" when places actually had employees and gov authorities actually had workers and supplied a service, you had to go to one of their facilities and get it checked by their people, and that was nerve wracking to say the least, but, those days have gone, and such places are just an office, with a bunch of seat warmers sitting waiting to take your number in line, as long as you have your correct "slip" and ID, you're done.

[stevej]

https://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/documents/roads/safety-rules/standards/vsi-52-certification-new-trailers.pdf
thats the nsw rego form
https://infrastructure.gov.au/vehicles/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb1/vsb_01_b.aspx
has to comply with vsb1

amazingly mentions nothing in my brief read about fit for purpose or some engineering behind it, only mentions draw bar requirements

[Noelm]

Yep, that's about it, unless it's a big trailer, you just get a weight certificate, zip over to your pink/blue slip man and it's all done, provided everything looks OK, you're good to go, I have never had a trailer gone over as far as engineering goes, it is just inspected, indicated as home made, or make unknown and that's it.

[gazza2006au]

Guys i went out last night and bought a dirt bike Yamaha WR450F i had no funds in my bank to do a revs check so i bought the bike and done the revs check today and report came back as it was a stolen motorcycle

the most important thing for me to be doing right now is getting the boat inspected and HIN validated than registered to make sure i am the owner

[Noelm]

Jesus, what are you going to do about the bike?

[gazza2006au]

My cousins husband is a highway patrol cop my sister asked about my situation he said if they can find the original owner of the bike i can possibly pay for the bike a second time round or it will get confiscated and i lose my money

i was buying the bike because i know bikes like the back of my hand to get running than triple my investment to buy a outboard for the boat but it isnt panning out to well i am going backwards, i probably don't have a leg to stand on in small claims court as the seller only had a birth certificate to show as ID i did take a picture of it i also asked for a license but the seller didn't have one

really shit situation i only have about 2k to rego boat and build the alloy trailer

my receipt for the boat has every detail minus mine and the sellers address i called the mobile boat code guy he said i need a full receipt i said mate i bought it 7 months ago i than called RMS and they said all i need is a stat declaration and the boat guy should be able to code the boat

failing this i will scrap the entire boat and spend my 2k on another boat that is registered and start from the beginning i am in a really crap spot at the moment nothing is panning out

[Noelm]

Holy hell, scrap the whole thing? thats a bit dramatic, remember when I said don't take on too many "projects" at once? sometimes things start to spiral out of control, and the more things you have to keep track of just trip you over, I wish you the best, don't know what else I can say.

[jclay1773]

Revs checks are about $10 from memory. Look like you got sucked in thinking you could make easy cash. If it’s too good to be true it probably is. Hopefully you can get it sorted.

[stevej]

always take another set of eyes when buying something

and have a budget and plan for a build so you don't jump all over the place as it never works out

[Lovey80]

I’d be taking my cousin’s husband back to the joint you bought it from.

[gazza2006au]

Noel i have it all under control but the boat is at the mercy of the boat code guy weather he is happy with my receipt (mines addresses) along with a statutory declaration signed by a justice of the peace this is what RMS told me i need but it will depend on the guy doing the boat coding and validation weather he is happy with the paper work or not, i am tempted to put the boat on the back of a tilt tray and take it to a boat coder one that will accept the stat dec along with my receipt just so i know i own the boat and i am able to register it

the boat has a old left over faded marking of a QLD rego but it has a NSW boat code that was never registered

i only have the hull on the go at the moment and about to start the trailer, the Etec i would like to repair but i am happy to just part it out a much

i'm down close to 1k on the bike but i am counting my loses the seller has now deleted his facebook account, i called the police and they are coming out sometime tonight to see the bike

still have 2.5k but to boat code and register the boat i am putting 2k aside for the trailer on its own, i just finished working on the 50hp Mariner today installing the water pump i just need the timing done and this boat will go up for sale sometime during summer to fund a new engine for the big boat

jclay i used the genuine revs check $25

the plan was to sell my small boat and sell the Yamaha WR450F both for around five to six thousand to fund a nice engine

[Noelm]

The boat code shouldn't be a big deal, I have done a few and never had a drama, I even know people who have written their own receipt to cover the technicality.

[Noelm]

I’d be taking my cousin’s husband back to the joint you bought it from.
This sounds like the best plan to me, even if it's enough to scare him into giving you your cash back.

[gazza2006au]

The guy who sold me the bike was telling my cousin (another cousin) one that came with me to pick up the bike that he was headed back to Northern Territory, i tried calling him, i tried msg'ing him on FB i put up a post with his picture on it on FB than he deleted his account

still waiting for the police to show up to see what they are going to do about it

Noel that is an idea but i would feel uncomfortable writing out my own boat receipt i thought about putting the sellers address on the receipt but that would look even worse, one time i walked into RMS when it was RTA i than had to walk back out and head back to the local police station where i had left my license i went back to the RMS and attended the counter where the lady told me i walked off and went to write my own receipt i was furious i explained i had just went back to the police station for my license

i can't lie for the life of me

[catshark]

didnt see that coming, this thread just got a bit dramatic, honestly boat code is easy peasy.....do what you got to do, rewrite the paperwork. once i got a trailer from QLD and it didnt have a serial number, what did i do ? l just qouted the part stamp number on the tow coupling, passed......with flying colors now as for the stolen bike, you got burnt you didnt do your homework, chaa ching

[gazza2006au]

Any of u guys got an idea on how to weigh the hill without stringers and floor in the boat? Trying to figure out if i need 1 or 2 axles

[gazza2006au]

I'm going to do it the legit way guys no nonsense i will do as RMS says to get a statutory declaration to go along with my receipt, cops are still at my house picking up the bike than i will head over to Capral Aluminium to see if i can get a deal on the aluminium hopefully i can get a discount on over a $1000 order

[Noelm]

You would kind of think if the Police have the bike, you know where the guy lives, that they would have him in custody already, unless it was a deal done in a parking lot or something? it's not that hard for the Police to find someone.

[Noelm]

Any of u guys got an idea on how to weigh the hill without stringers and floor in the boat? Trying to figure out if i need 1 or 2 axles
No way I know except take it on the trailer to the weigh bridge, then take the trailer on it's own, neither options will be easy with the boat as it is.

[gazza2006au]

Hey Noel the police took a report they took pictures of mine and the sellers conversation on FB i showed them everything i had people on FB help me while the seller blocked me after the sale i had no access to his pictures other people went into the sellers account and saved all his pictures than sent them to me so the cops took pictures of all the guys photos

the detective said he will send the wollongong police around to the sellers house to follow up on the deal and he asked if i was willing to make a statement i said i will so they will likely charge the seller and i really hope they do, they have so much evidence, FB conversation, pictures of the receipt, pictures of the sellers birth certificate, the cop asked what the guys house looked like i hope they string this bastard up

[gazza2006au]

I thought about getting some 1000kg hanging scales from ebay and lifting the trailer with mine and my cousins car engine hoist than i thought about just buying the caravan trailer scales that u roll the trailer onto but those were over $500 a pair so I'm not really sure how i will go about weighing it

i just tried to place my order with capral they had sent me a email about 1 week ago saying free delivery for first purchase my total comes to $1080 with $48 being shipping if i can find the email i can place a order now however if i cannot i need to put a extra $20 in my account, i called up and asked if the lady could do the promo code over the phone but she was blunt and said no

[catshark]

i reckon you would get away with single axle at 45mm solid axle running 4-5 slipper springs on 195/R15 or 16 wheels, or just go down to boat ramp and rip of ideas, best to keep the rig stamped as under the 2000 gvm limit hence you just need mechanical brakes. my guestimate on your finished rig would be about 1500kg or stretch that to 1800kg if you do the hardtop.

[gazza2006au]

I can find 1400kg and 1600kg axle kits on ebay if i were going single axle i would probably buy it new if i was going tandem i would have to use my old axles, using my old axles means i will have to move the boat and park it for good while i take the axles from under it for the new trailer

if i bought a new single axle kit i could build the new trailer where i would have parked the boat, its over grass but should pan out, the thing with buying a new axle is i need one that already has the brake mounts welded on and has been galvanized they are hard to find on ebay

[gazza2006au]

Probably the cheapest way of weighing a car or in my case a boat and trailer haha check it out, Ebay here i come for 8 scales lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=071xPmVgE0E&t=198s

[gazza2006au]

Let the fun begin fella's aluminium ordered today i scored a $130 discount just by asking for it, all up price for 2 lengths of 130mm i beam, 1 length of 76x6mm square total cost $948.50, price was $1080 including delivery, it gets delivered tomorrow

i have a plan of bending some round tubing probably 70mm or 80mm round steel tubing for the drive on part of the rear on trailer i was going to hire a pipe bender from the internet but have noticed they are really crap at bending and end up kinking the pipe so i may have to see if kennards hire out this type of tool

[Noelm]

Might have to build a new trailer for the cat, pretty easy one to build though, might be easier to sell with an aluminium trailer.

[gazza2006au]

Be a interesting build Noel it might cost a nice penny as you have a big boat but it will be worth it I'm sure it will sell it's self, i was at the boat ramp on the weekend and only seen a couple aluminium trailers with 1/3rd the car park full there were quiet a few new steel gal trailers out there i would have thought there would have been loads of alloy trailers by now i guess the initial purchase prices may be putting people off from buying

[Noelm]

A cat trailer would be a breeze, it's just straight sections, no bends, only tricky bit would be the guide up the centre, probably 3 lengths of material would do it, you could even bolt it together because the cross bits (no V needed) simply sit on top of the side rails.

[gazza2006au]

Noel yeah u could possibly bolt all that together with U bolts and stainless steel threaded bolts

[gazza2006au]

This is what i am aiming for i think i should really make the very front cross member from steel SHS and also run a 100x100x4mm SHS steel drawbar

the green lines are the 76mm SHS alloy, i have extended the very end cross member to allow lights to be attached but I'm not sure how i can install the nuts and bolts i plan on using nuts and bolts along with 76mm U bolts for the cross members

i will need to get the drawbar, front cross member, the spring hangers all galvanised anyone got an idea what these will cost to galvanize? i have $1300 to complete the trailer thats not including rego and i am using my other trailers drive train minus springs

i think my other trailer is running 50mm axles

[catshark]

A cat trailer would be a breeze, it's just straight sections, no bends, only tricky bit would be the guide up the centre, probably 3 lengths of material would do it, you could even bolt it together because the cross bits (no V needed) simply sit on top of the side rails.
i had a local guy fab up a alloy welded tunnel guide for me, i made up a wooden tunnel guide jig , and ask him to replicate it and it came out mm perfect, cost was $2000 including materials, i was happy at that price and happier i used local experience. it just u-bolted onto the main frame.

[catshark]

chucking any gusset plates on the first cross member? for the rear i would cut the last cross member to width as per the others and just bang on as L - shape bracket that will bolt on the side of the main rail which will hold the lights, or also attach to rear of mudgaurds, as long as you prop dont extend further than 1.2 mt from your lights your sweet from getting infringement notices from the jolly local officer plod.

[catshark]

Noel yeah u could possibly bolt all that together with U bolts and stainless steel threaded bolts
i think if you use galvanised bolts then you need a plastic sleeve to seperate the gal from the alloy, as it does some reaction yes/.no ?

[Dignity]

Probably the cheapest way of weighing a car or in my case a boat and trailer haha check it out, Ebay here i come for 8 scales lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=071xPmVgE0E&t=198s

Local tip works, at least here in qld and they dont charge. Drive the rig on, get a weight, drive vehicle off so boat is still being weighed, you should still be able to see the weight, use a towball weight scale you buy from the auto shops for less than $100,I got mine on special for a bit under $50. With those 3 weights you can work it all out.

[gazza2006au]

Hey Cat, I'm not sure how far back the mudguards will be i haven't looked at mudguards yet i think i may need to get them fabbed to suit my tandem 9" wheels, i will be using all stainless steel nuts,bolts, washers and SS or Gal U bolts whatever i can find i have a toy lathe that i can spin up some plastic inserts for the U bolts sleeves but we'll see what i can find, no plans of gusset plates they dont use them on the shop bought trailers other than a plate top and bottom on the front of the Y of the trailer that will likely be 8mm aluminium plate

i think the 1.2m over hang is only for cars mate trailers are allowed a certain amount of overhang its different to cars because i will have my axles at the back of the trailer frame its sneaky i have a big space between the front axle and the bow area of the boat i am allowed that much room as overhang so i am bending the rules but well within the book

[gazza2006au]

Where it says "front load space" u have that much from the middle of the axles to the rear how i am going about it sneaky is my front load space will be very long so i should have a very long space hanging off the back without it being called overhang by the bunks lengthi'm hopping anyway

[rayken1938]

Not much room for brakes with 9inch wheels.
Cheers Ray

[Noelm]

600X9 wheels will fit brakes easy, but, you need the smaller rotors, the tyre diameter size is nearly exactly the same as a standard 13" and the sidewalks are really strong, they were the trailer standard for many years.

[gazza2006au]

Hey Ray the disc don't sit inside the rims on these smaller wheels the disc actually sit outside of the wheels

[gazza2006au]

Had to top off the leaky hydraulic presses jack with transmission fluid as it has a leak, so far i have bent the aluminium to 7.0 degrees this gives me a width of around 1.49m i need something like 1.79m to suit my axles so shit is going to get technical from here on with the bending, my 20 ton press done it but i think i was around 90 percent capacity on the hydraulic jack

where its bent to now there are absolutely no kinking not even the slightest there are no cracking on the bend or anything this is working out perfect so far

[gazza2006au]

1.49m width is just a rough measurement i don't have it all aligned but i will tomorrow

[gazza2006au]

My cousin came over and gave me a hand this afternoon making the final bends we ended up at 8.2 degrees bends which gave me a width of 1660mm my old trailer is 1730mm wide with the spring back of the i beam i didn't want to try for perfection it could be a $1000 mistake by bending to far

i need to pick up a new disc for the chop saw i will head to bunnings later tonight and cut the cross members tomorrow

[gazza2006au]

Burnt out my $90 chop saw on the very first cut bugger! just bought a new disc for it too over $20 i than got out the trusty ryobi wood saw and it cut like butter, i grabbed my stainless bolts today with nyloc nuts will be assembling shortly maybe tomorrow, this coming week i will pick up the drawbar i will go with 100x100x4mm steel i will use a 100x100x4mm cross brace at the back of the drawbar which i will TIG weld out in the shed

just remembered i don't have a saw to cut the steel hmm

my trailer is only around 150mm 155mm wide i have to check my boat will sit over the mud guards as not to have rally dicky looking mud guards hanging out of the edge of the trailer plus it allows materials to go a little further

[robothefisho]

Might be worth getting some penetrating die to double check for fine cracking.

[Dignity]

You could put a second bend halfway forward of the first bend.

[stevej]

boats going to sit bloody high with no v in the braces

[gazza2006au]

I cut my angles on the cross members at 45 degree it was too advanced of a cut i was going to run 2 bolts each side of the cross members and a U bolt on the inside but since my cuts were too aggressive i have no room to use the U bolts i now need to install 4 bolts each side of the cross members

going to call another aluminium shop tomorrow i need another short length of alloy to make 2 more cross members i was going to go with steel but the alloy looks strong, the draw bar will attach to the most two front cross members not pictured yet

last night i ordered the springs, fish plates,u bolts, coupling kit, brake kit etc... all up i am in this trailer $1400 all i need to buy is my draw bar, mud guards, spring hanger attachment plates, trailer lights and a winch post plus two steel plates for top and bottom where the V is up front and my bunks

[gazza2006au]

Rob If i put the die on it how do i clean it off? i only made the beds 8.2 degrees its nothing really

Dig Hey dig i went with only 2 bends to minimize any problems

Steve Some manufacturers run strait cross members it won't be a problem the trailer is 6.5 meters long mate that is plenty of length to dip

[gazza2006au]

These guys run strait cross members https://easytow.com.au/fish-sports-boat-trailers/alloy-trailers-ts-6-0m-8-0m-hulls/

[gazza2006au]

This is going to be painful yesterday i bought 8 bolts 8 washers 8 nyloc nuts plus acouple other smaller nuts and bolts for a hydrofoil and it came to $50 i just worked out i need 40 bolts, 40 nuts and 80 washers that is just to bolt on the cross members holly ..... stainless cost an absolute fortune!

[scottar]

Where are you buying it Gazza. There is a huge difference between buying at a Bunnings or Marine retailer compared to a specialist fastener supplier.

[gazza2006au]

I'm getting it from a nut and bolt shop Scottar i looked on the Bunnings web site but was unable to find any in SS sold individually, I'm using M12, 4 bolts per side on each cross member, do u know anywhere cheaper to buy them?

i just checked my receipt i am paying $4.51 per 1 bolt, 1 nut and 1 washer that is highway robbery :o i need 40 that's $180 in bolts holy shit!

[catshark]

correct if im wrong but wont you get white powder build up around the s/s bolts on alloy. on my alloy trailer they went with gal bolts.

[Gon Fishun]

I'm getting it from a nut and bolt shop Scottar i looked on the Bunnings web site but was unable to find any in SS sold individually, I'm using M12, 4 bolts per side on each cross member, do u know anywhere cheaper to buy them?

i just checked my receipt i am paying $4.51 per 1 bolt, 1 nut and 1 washer that is highway robbery :o i need 40 that's $180 in bolts holy shit!

I used to buy mine from Ebay but I can't find the supplier to let you know. They had good delivery and the prices were good. I'll keep looking.

Pretty sure this is the place. It was 3 years ago so no guarantee.
https://nutandboltshop.com.au/

[fishtragic]

Gazza i used a piece of 100x75 for my draw bar. Got it from a mate who owns one of the brand name trailer places, he says thats plenty. Boats 2.6t. I used mostly gal bolts after checking the galvanic scale and price. Use plenty of a quality anti corrosion compound. Put a gal subframe under the i-beams. 6mths now, no sign of electroysis and just put 7000klm on it with no probs. Solid as a rock.
Mark

[scottar]

Quick search found these guys - they have prices displayed so you should be able to gauge whether you are getting a good price or not.

http://allthingsstainless.com.au/index.html

Personally I normally buy through "The Bolt Place" in Capalaba - prices have always seemed pretty good but they don't have a website - you would have to call them. As to the reaction between the metals - factor a tube of sealant into your build to keep the water from getting into the gaps around the bolts - won't stop it entirely but it will help. The main reasons they use Gal instead of stainless are price, strength and the fact that stainless has a nasty habit of galling when you do it up if it isn't lubricated as the tension comes on - usually to the point that the grinder is required to undo them. I would also be thinking about sealant between any surface and the alloy or between any alloy surfaces.

[gazza2006au]

Gon thanks matw i will have good look when i get on the laptop

Fish i have already pre set my i beams as to take a 100x100mm draw bar i really wanted 110x100mm but they dont make that size that is the internal size of the i beam i will have to shim it

Scottar i had a quick look as im on mobile hard to see everything on tiny screen seen there prices much much cheaper than my local store

[Dignity]

The main reasons they use Gal instead of stainless are price, strength and the fact that stainless has a nasty habit of galling when you do it up if it isn't lubricated as the tension comes on - usually to the point that the grinder is required to undo them. I would also be thinking about sealant between any surface and the alloy or between any alloy surfaces.

Yep, use a power tool to do up your nuts and galling is pretty certain to occur. After using the grinder a number of times I now lubricate the bolts but still take it easy. Gal is what I've seen on most ally trailers. Thats why you'll find steel bolts are used in your mostly ally motor, its not a cost cutting exercise, SS just causes too many problems with galvanic reaction.

[gazza2006au]

So u guys reckon go with galvanized bolts instead?

[bluefin59]

Gal bolts where on my quintrex alloy trailer as well . Matt

[Dignity]

So u guys reckon go with galvanized bolts instead?

Yes.........

[Moonlighter]

I have a friend who runs a marine fabrication business that does work for many major boatbuilders.

His go-to for protecting against dissimilar metals corrosion is lanolin grease. A light smear on bolts, washers, nuts, rivets etc is all that is required.

Lanolin grease is dielectric. And natural, nothing nasty in there.

He no longer uses tef-gel, duralac (I was a advocate of that nasty yellow stuff previously, God it got everywhere!) or similar compounds.

I changed to lanolin a few years ago as he suggested and have found it works very well. Trailer bolts, stainless screws and bolts in my platey, everywhere.

I use the Ozspray lanolin.

[gazza2006au]

Thanks i will replace the bolts, What i don't get is if i am meant to use gal bolts on the aluminium why do i need to separate the gal draw bar from the cross member and main rails etc..?

[Dignity]

I have a friend who runs a marine fabrication business that does work for many major boatbuilders.

His go-to for protecting against dissimilar metals corrosion is lanolin grease. A light smear on bolts, washers, nuts, rivets etc is all that is required.

Lanolin grease is dielectric. And natural, nothing nasty in there.

He no longer uses tef-gel, duralac (I was a advocate of that nasty yellow stuff previously, God it got everywhere!) or similar compounds.

I changed to lanolin a few years ago as he suggested and have found it works very well. Trailer bolts, stainless screws and bolts in my platey, everywhere.

I use the Ozspray lanolin.

Good old sheeps wool grease, if it's good enough for breastfeeding feeding mothers it's got to be good for a trailer. If you have a fresh cut in steel or iron, rub in lanolin grease and it won't rust, amazing stuff. The pressure pack stuff is probably about 20% (I think im being generous) as good.

Gaz, because of dissimilar metals separation is still the best method.

[stevej]

you cant stop Electrolytic corrosion on aluminium trailers but it happens slower then with gal trailers
fasteners are a disposable system that wont last the life of the aluminium components

i dont see how lanolin has any durability unless your maintaining the trailer properly and re coating them

[Dignity]

you cant stop Electrolytic corrosion on aluminium trailers but it happens slowe then with gal trailers
fasteners are a disposable system that wont lats the life of the aluminium components

i dont see how lanolin has any durability unless your maintaining the trailer properly and re coating them

Get hold of some proper pure lanolin grease, not the spray, hard to find, it sticks like crazy and will last a long time. I've got some on my tinnie trailer that got put on in 2010, still there.

[Moonlighter]

you cant stop Electrolytic corrosion on aluminium trailers but it happens slowe then with gal trailers
fasteners are a disposable system that wont lats the life of the aluminium components

i dont see how lanolin has any durability unless your maintaining the trailer properly and re coating them

http://www.woolube.com.au/page17.html

sticks like .... to a blanket.

[gazza2006au]

Thanks for the heads up i will pick up a tube of the Lanolin Woolube Grease when i can, struggling to make it to the steel shop had 1 hour today and for the rest of the week i have a heap of deliveries also trying to fix my other boat and put a new impeller in to it to take out for a fish

[gazza2006au]

I wonder if a 10 year old kid is packaging my orders? :-? i have whats boxed plus my 4 springs just waiting on U bolts, fish plates and axle pads now

[Fed]

Those gold nuts & bolts will rust very quickly.

[ranmar850]

Agree, that gold cad plate is not for a boat trailer, you really need Galvanised.

[ranmar850]

I have a friend who runs a marine fabrication business that does work for many major boatbuilders.

His go-to for protecting against dissimilar metals corrosion is lanolin grease. A light smear on bolts, washers, nuts, rivets etc is all that is required.

Lanolin grease is dielectric. And natural, nothing nasty in there.

He no longer uses tef-gel, duralac (I was a advocate of that nasty yellow stuff previously, God it got everywhere!) or similar compounds.

I changed to lanolin a few years ago as he suggested and have found it works very well. Trailer bolts, stainless screws and bolts in my platey, everywhere.

I use the Ozspray lanolin.

back when I was a crayfisherman, here in WA we use steel-bottomed, wooden framed pots. To protect the steel, we had anodes. Way back, we just used the wired type, and twitched them on. No guarantee of getting a good connection. So we started welding bolts to the frame, for use as a stud, ended up with 1/2". These were never too hard to undo if they were straight out of the water, particularly if you used a stainless bolt, but, if you used black, as many did, you can imagine how hard it was if you let the pot dry out. A pneumatic rattle gun would just shear a 1/2" bolt off. Now, seeing as we were trying to catch stuff with a well-known dislike for petrochemical products, you couldn't grease the bolts , or spray penetrant. may as well chuck the pot away, it would never catch again. So I started using lanolin grease on the stud, just a smear of a basic, thick Lanolin grease. Did it for a decade, never any problems again in getting those nuts off, and didn't bother the crays one bit.

[gazza2006au]

The woolube is the stuff to go with its made by lanolin so should be top stuff, i picked up my steel this afternoon 100x100x3mm 2 meters draw bar, 90x5mm 200mm long 8 pieces for my spring hanger bases, i picked up some 50x50x5mm angle for my draw bar cross members but this wont be going on the trailer it looks to small and the steel bloke had already cut it so i will use some 90x70x10mm angle iron i already have

i may use the 50x50x5mm angle for my mudguard hangers

my axles fit a 1.75m trailer my alloy trailer is like 1.5m so i am going to either stretch my mudguards out wide or i will make the guards nice and fat to take up that extra space whats your opinions on this?

[gazza2006au]

I will be making my own mudguards out of 3mm aluminium sheet just wondering which style i should go with?

[gazza2006au]

How good does it look already its only just sitting together a mate works in a industrial factory selling all trade stuff and he is getting me the gal bolts

i need to start welding now need to weld the spring hangers to the plate than drill and bolt it all together

those two most front cross members are getting replaced with something substantial

buying that dirt bike out of my 3.5k budget f..... me over big time i would have bought two new axle assemblies specifically for this trailer

[catshark]

so do you know your axle length needed, with the first pic of the mudgaurds would suit better for clearance from the hull as its further away and the hull is raking upwards too giving you bit of room taking into acount the travel of spring flex to bump stop. those plastic bulky gaurds are crap when retrofitting, i done away with them and got some chequer sheet made up, looks more sporty.

[gazza2006au]

Cat I'm not sure how much of the guards will be sticking out (away from the frame) i will have to measure the old trailer to get an idea but its raining here and i don't feel like rolling around in the mud lol

i called a shop the other day and i was quoted a price on i think 78 or 88 inch axles

[scottar]

Not using a load sharing set up Gazza?

[gazza2006au]

I'm yet to add the bunks Scott they will extend off the back I'm pretty much running the Y of the frame up to the coupling winch post will be where the two black front cross members are

[gazza2006au]

This might be a bit easier to see what I'm trying to get Scottar the purple line is the boats hull, y boatis 5.7m long over all now from the very last cross member on therear of the frame to the first cross member in front of the front axle is 2.5m plus add on .5m overhang on the rear of the trailer this gives me 3m so i have 2.7m of boat over the front axle but in saying that i will have the engine off the back plus the fuel tank over the axles

do u see any problems or can give advice? any help is much appreciated

[scottar]

Sorry Gazza - meant your axle set up. Dual slipper springs don't load share as effectively as a proper load sharing arrangement. Means you have to have your loading and tow bar heights spot on to distribute weight across both axles.

https://trailersparesdirect.com.au/blogs/technical-info/spring-spacing-measurements

[gazza2006au]

Ahh i have no way of working around it because of the cross member between the front and rear springs

I just checked your link Scottar i went with slipper springs just easier to install and the ones i have were cheap i think $70 a set from memory

[Dignity]

Loads sharing is much, much better, with your setup one wheel or the other will often be taking almost the full load on that side due to our beautifully smooth roads in Australia and you wI'll be flexing those side walls more than you wold like. Generally you would want to build a separate frame for dual axle set up so you can easily move it for best weight distribution, things change in a boat and you will need to do it when you add gear or seats or eskies etc.

[bluefin59]

Loads sharing is much, much better, with your setup one wheel or the other will often be taking almost the full load on that side due to our beautifully smooth roads in Australia and you wI'll be flexing those side walls more than you wold like. Generally you would want to build a separate frame for dual axle set up so you can easily move it for best weight distribution, things change in a boat and you will need to do it when you add gear or seats or eskies etc.

Seems like research and development could make things a bit more costly in home trailer manufacturing, lucky in this case a wealth of knowledge is at hand because you could make a lot of expensive mistakes just flying by the seat of your pants . Matt

[gazza2006au]

The boat should end up around 60/40% 60% over the front of axles 40% behind

[ranmar850]

Ahh i have no way of working around it because of the cross member between the front and rear springs

I just checked your link Scottar i went with slipper springs just easier to install and the ones i have were cheap i think $70 a set from memory

2 axles of individual slippers will NOT give you the same load rating as a proper load sharing rocker/roller tandem setup. Yeah it's cheaper. You get what you pay for. I had a set up like that on a trailer I bought under a boat, failed with very bad results. Not a fan of single slippers either-again, cheap and nasty.
I rebuilt the carriage of that trailer with a proper load sharing setup, chalk and cheese on the same bad ( really bad) roads.

[stevej]

cheap and 2 tonnes being towed at 90kph isnt something i want on the road

none of the manufactures build the dual axle trailer the way you are currently planning

[gazza2006au]

Guys my original trailer is tandem slipper springs they even sell tandem slipper spring trailer kits on the Australian market eye to eye springs are harder to get in galvanized have a look if u don't believe me

my boat will weight 1000kg 1200kg finished its documented my hull weigh's 850kg my springs are rated 500kg each individual spring i am running 4 pieces my trailer is over kill i am only going tandem because i have the axles

[gazza2006au]

Please read this link from AL KO http://www.alko.com.au/vehicle-technology-catalogue/springs/slipper-springs/ my set up is all normal

[Dignity]

Gazza, they will happily sell you whatever you want so long as they make a sale. As Ranmar says, chalk and cheese between the two setups, I've had both and know what I'd prefer. If your only travelling short didtances to the ramp and don't plan any long trips you'll get away with your setup.

[ranmar850]

Yep, stick to bitumen, dont overload, shell be fine. My useage tends to be tougher--I do a heavily loaded 700 k bitumen trip every year that finishes with 50 odd ks of washed out, heavily corrugated track that can take 3 hours. Which is why I paid for a heavily upgraded trailer for the new boat.

[scottar]

The boat should end up around 60/40% 60% over the front of axles 40% behind

Weight wise or length wise mate?

Bare in mind that most of the weight is in the rear. Also take into account that as your car takes weight and the suspension lowers, weight is going to come off your rear axle which is going to change your towing geometry a lot. You should also be looking to achieve approximately 10 percent of your load weight in down weight on your towball as an approximate figure. You are cutting things pretty fine if she ends up balanced over the front axle with little weight being taken by the rear if you are calculating on weight. Out of interest, I ran the tape over my rig - one third or it's length is behind the centre point between the axles - two thirds in front based on length.

[gazza2006au]

I'll go measure it now Scottar to check

[gazza2006au]

Lets see if this post works again, Scotter what do u think about me moving the middle cross member between the axles? i have some worry in doing so just to move the axles more forward

i edited this picture this shows where my axles sit on the old trailer vs over the new trailer however the new trailer will have 50cm over hang past the last cross member using the bunks

[gazza2006au]

Should look like this guys, i pretty much don't have any ore cash to change to a eye to eye spring set up i went with most of the cheaper products to keep within my limited budget i did look at the eye to eye springs early on but getting the required angles on the plates was a bit off setting as i had eye to eye springs on a old trailer about 10 years ago, when i looked for springs for that old trailer i needed a specific length and all i could find at the time were painted springs and that is what was on the trailer too but they were rusty and also the plates were almost folding the springs back it was a dramatic problem waiting to happen from the spring sag

[scottar]

It will be hard to gauge exactly where the axle will end up as you are making a lot of changes - the change in the boats structure, the change in weight of the trailer itself and the likelihood that the engine will be a different weight from original are going to mean different weight distribution

[gazza2006au]

Actually the old trailer my boat is on now had the axle assemblies adjusted to balance the hull only no engine i think thats why the wheels are mid ship


I am thinking about buying two correct axle lengths for the new trailer and using my wheels off the old trailer or i'll buy a set cheaply somewhere

[catshark]

dont overthink it to much , your design is fine and will do the job you intended on your budget. i myself have moved back the whole running gear on new trailers because of motor weight or more tow ball weight needed. i can never have a trailer where the axles were in the middle.yuck.

[gazza2006au]

Cat im likely to keep the Etec because of funds i can just chip a bit away at a time, in using the engine thats 174kg hanging off the transom on a 850kg hull i think it should be ok

Weldi g starts tomorrow guys going to tig weld the spring hangers to the plate

[gazza2006au]

I'm going to buy new axles, hubs,bearings brakes and disc's my left over budget only allows me to buy a complete braked axle but it should get my trailer as a roller, if i go galvanized and need to weld the brake mount pads can i use tectyl with lanolin to stop the rust on the welds will it effect the galvanize later on? will need it for all my steel parts on the trailer too untill i can get a bit more coin to galvanized the steel parts in a few weeks if its ready to do so

the second axle assembly should come in soon as its only a basic roller axle and is cheap, i should have a complete trailer in pieces once i buy the braked axle and get that out of the way, the trailer bolts are coming in on monday as mentioned my mate is picking those up from hes work he told me 50 bolts 8.8 grade with washers and nut retails $160 got them for $18 bargain...

if my disc allow it i will reuse my old 4 wheels off the old trailer i had bought an additional 2x nine by six wheels for my other boat i had sold the tires are no good but i will chuck those wheels on the old trailer to flog it off instead of cutting it up and binning the whole trailer

pretty much have it sorted so far

[scottar]

Another option. Never used it personally but was talking to the boiley's at work about doing gal steel

https://www.weldingsupply.com.au/product/9536-galmend-zinc-stick-6-5mm-per-kg#.W-7Lj_ZuKUk

[gazza2006au]

Never seen anything like it before Scottar thanks for posting this, How do u apply it just by rubbing it on? or does it need heat or something?

[scottar]

Never used it Gazza but I assume you heat the steel and then melt the stick onto it - bit like solder

[Dignity]

Great stuff, clean the work surface so it's nice and shiny otherwise it'll not stick properly, and yes you need heat, after all it is nearly pure zinc.

[gazza2006au]

Do u guys think i would be better off going single axle 1600kg or possibly 2000kg for better balance? i can find the 1600kg stub axles to make my own axle but i can't find a suitable steel axle piece for the 2000kg stubs

Scottar got me thinking about the balance and what if i build the trailer and i am way off i am stuck with it as it sits

[Gon Fishun]

Do u guys think i would be better off going single axle 1600kg or possibly 2000kg for better balance? i can find the 1600kg stub axles to make my own axle but i can't find a suitable steel axle piece for the 2000kg stubs

Scottar got me thinking about the balance and what if i build the trailer and i am way off i am stuck with it as it sits

As the others have said ,go the load sharing rocker springs. You're going this far , don't skimp on what might prove fatal.

[Dignity]

Build a cradle, your overall height will increase but better off.

[gazza2006au]

Gon not sure how i would bridge the gap with my cross member in the middle of the springs

How would i go about that Dig?

[Dignity]

Because you are putting your cross members below the frames, normally they would be bent and welded to the insides, you will need to make it so your frame stands off the depth of your cross members, hence the increase in overall height.

[gazza2006au]

Dig this is the only way i could possibly do it mate as my cross members edge is cut at 45 degrees i can possible stick a spring hanging rocker thing in the middle but it will need some thought

i just went out and rolled around on the grass with the torch i have limited funds now because i have bought almost everything for the trailer build, my alloy frame measures 1540mm wide and my old trailer axles measure from outside of the wheel to outside of the wheel 2200mm that leaves me with 330mm between my outside alloy rails and the outside of my wheels my wheels are cheese cutters only 150mm wide do u think that big gap on the inside of my wheels or my stretched in width mud guards will look real dicky or cause some concern for the blue slip inspector mechanic?

basically there will be 180mm between the inside of each wheel to the outside of my alloy rails, maybe if i close the inside of the mud guard the mechanic wont see the gap lol

[ranmar850]

As others have said, you really are better off having the spring hangers, whether they be single or dual, welded to a heavy piece of angle, which is then u-bolted to the trailer frame. This will give you a degree of adjustablity, loosen the u-bolts and slide the frame back or forwards,and you often only have to move the axle location a little to change the balance significantly. I've seen this done with commercially produced ali trailers, IIRC.

[gazza2006au]

Trying to figure out how i can make a rocker arm holder that will sit inside my cross member and bolt down using the same bolts the cross member is held in place with this should keep the same axle height

[ranmar850]

Another thing--you are talking about maybe going 1600kg single axle, just be sure it will be big enough loaded. Remember, that includes the weight of the trailer ( which is the only real reason for going ali, particularly on the bigger rigs) I know you have quoted 850kg hull and 174kg of motor, but add batteries, rigging fuel, all your normal gear, and the trailer, and you don't have a lot to spare. Then load it up to go away, as we do. The old" nah, that doesn't weigh much" can be very misleading. I did the exercise once, weighed every single thing I packed, none of it was "heavy", no extra fuel or water, and added total came up 350 +KG! And an overloaded Swiftcraft Dominator on an 1800KG trailer. I had uprated that trailer, single axle 1400kg which came under the boat, (1550 kg on the weighbridge ::) )to 1800kg tandem with all OEM parts and a new compliance plate.

[gazza2006au]

Yeah Ran the boats overall weight has been on my mind the whole time the Americans have logged it at 850kg but who really knows what it weighs untill it sees the weigh bridge i wont know i can only go by my years of towing experience the empty hull and trailer felt around the 1200kg mark as if i were towing a car trailer with a holden barina or my cousins mitsubishi lancer on the back of my Xtrail

if anyone knows of a way to weigh the whole rig that would be appreciated i can than calculate the trailers frame weight roughly from the amount of steel on it, icould buy all those human body scales and weigh it that way but it could be a waste of money too

my cousin is coming over tomorrow we are going to move the boat to the corner of the back yard where it will be jacked up, axles removed and than once the alloy trailer is done i will cut away the old trailer frame bit by bit as we slide the new alloy trailer under the boat that is the plan

i am going to paint the alloy trailers steel parts for now untill its built and it passes rego i will than get it galvanized i just just hope the mechanic isnt picky and wants the design changed hence gal it after rego

[ranmar850]

Are you getting a compliance plate issued? There is provision in the ADR's for homebuilt trailers up to a certain size to be self-certified. You make application(instructions are actually in the ADR document, from memory) get approval, then get a plate from a trailer maunfacturer after showing them your approval. No inspection required for it, you are just stating that you have built it to conform with the relevant ADR's. After that, get it inspected for rego. The inspection place will likely be looking at compliance with requirements for security chains, functional brakes relevant to load rating, placement of lights, size/rating of tyres. Unless it somehow looks seriously deficient in some basic facet of design, they really won't be critiquing that, IMO.

[gazza2006au]

Hey Ran in nsw u just take it in for a unregistered vehicle inspection the mechanic will ask roads and maritime to allocate a VIN number they stamp this into the frame than i goto roads and maritime pay the fee and its registered

Does anyone know where i could possibly hire 2x 1000kg hanging scales i will try hang my boat from two car engine cranes to get a weight

[shakey55]

Take the boat on current trailer to weigh bridge get weight. Take home remove boat and back to weigh bridge then you will have exact weight of boat.

A little bit of running around, but gets you the exact weight and no guessing


Sent from my iPad using Ausfish forums

[Fed]

Tandem slippers on angle iron incorporating the mudguard supports, just add U bolts.
Weld the cross bars inside the I beams.

[gazza2006au]

Shakey yeah im going to call some tow trucks now

Fed i have a cross member right in the middle mate that is getting in the way no holes have been drilled yet but its where i plan on putting the cross member

[gazza2006au]

I was just calling around seems no tow truck company wants to answer there phones.. i got a hold of one lady and she said my trailer is to wide at 2.2m wheel to wheel so i am buggered i cant get a towie to tow to the weigh bridge, i did just find the VIN number but the trailer has no brakes, rusty holes in the frame and the coupling is buggered to tow it my self

EDIT: i just bought 1400kg's worth of scales on ebay they'll be here thrursday i will grab some sleepers from bunnings too to weigh the boat and trailer

[gazza2006au]

My rickety box of scales showed up today barely in the box i will get them out later to sus out, i came down with the flu yesterday so feel like crap will jack boat up and weigh it when i can

[Dignity]

Shakey yeah im going to call some tow trucks now

Fed i have a cross member right in the middle mate that is getting in the way no holes have been drilled yet but its where i plan on putting the cross member

Gazza, the framework of the cradle is of angle iron and will sit nicely under your frame and should not cause any interference, I made an beer goghle error before when I said it would increase your height, it will but only the thickness of the angle iron.

[gazza2006au]

Dig's it will be a complicated set up going with the tandem shared load spring set up based on how i have designed the frame already, when i weigh the boat and trailer in the next few days once i minus the trailer if the hull comes out to less than 800kg i will likely be going with a single 1600kg axle if i can go this route i have two locations for the axle to balance the load, if i go tandem i am stuck with my two axles in one position which cannot be moved to alter balance

[gazza2006au]

These are the scales i bought just cheapies from ebay for around $12.50 they are good for 180kg each scale my mate came thru with the bolts also so have a heap of those to

[gazza2006au]

Hull and steel trailer came in at 1040kg plus/minus a few kg's i rounded it off

[gazza2006au]

Just getting rid of the flu that bugger hit me hard hot fevers cold flushes, shivering, goose bumps, head aches, running nose, flem, mucus, coughing, sneezing bloody hell the fever was the worse could not control it with panamax or nurofen just blowing the rest out my nose now, seems this is the flu getting around Sydney at the moment

back into the trailer build this week looking to order my new axle thinking about buying this one from ebay the seller is local to me so i can pick it up https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-GALVANIZED-45MM-SQ-1400KG-HEAVY-DUTY-COMPLETE-TRAILER-AXLE-SUIT-BOAT-BOX-CAR/152255086147 so far i am i into this aluminium trailer $1500 this new axle will put me at $2100 a bit over budget i was hopping to have finished trailer for $2000 anyone know where i could get a cheaper axle assembly?

[Dignity]

Dig's it will be a complicated set up going with the tandem shared load spring set up based on how i have designed the frame already, when i weigh the boat and trailer in the next few days once i minus the trailer if the hull comes out to less than 800kg i will likely be going with a single 1600kg axle if i can go this route i have two locations for the axle to balance the load, if i go tandem i am stuck with my two axles in one position which cannot be moved to alter balance

Have another look at Fed's post, if cradle is made like that it won't matter if you use for a single or dual axle and will be adjustable and will work on your trailer. I have had to move mine 100 mms for balance reasons, probably third time due to changes in bimini/rocket launchers, ice box seats etc.

I'm pretty sure you will be unhappy at some stage with your decision to weld them directly to the trailer.

[gazza2006au]

Dig i was only welding the spring hangers to plates the plates than get bolted to the frame so the whole axle/spring assembly can move that is the plan for a single axle, if i went tandem they would have to be in one set location

[gazza2006au]

Fed i am going to go with that design as a single axle 50mm hopefully the mechanic rates the axle at 1400kg or more

Anyone know if thread lock is salt water safe? Should i use medium or perminant strength?

Had a busy few days there went fishing in the smaller boat 3 days yeah ha just wish we caught something lol

Trying to pick up some grinder cutting disc to cut some angle for the two front cross members and the spring support

Still no welding but i have everything to get started im hopping progress starts again tomorrow i still need to go work on the ford territory and bring it home

[gazza2006au]

Ripped out the welder and welded my spring hangers i am thinking about painting the spring hangers in thick 2K paint over galvanizing them whats you thought?

i think the steel guy rear ended me on the price $88 for two and a half meters of angle iron 75mm x 8mm

[scottar]

First time you bolt em on Gaz you can kiss 2 pac good bye. Gal for my money.

[Dirtyfuzz]

Do what my old man did for the trailer, hot dip gal then powder coat


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[gazza2006au]

Wgat would it cost to gal two of these minus springs, and gal the 2 meter 100x100x3mm drawbar?

[Noelm]

Probably be best to fully weld those hangers, or the gal will not get under them, but salt water will, not too sure on prices for galvanising, but they do have a minimum price, then it goes by weight.

[stevej]

dont cover gal its meant to degrade to protect the steel
it will degrade faster depending on the conditions the trailer is used and stored

[ranmar850]

heavy steel section ain't cheap, and this is reflected in the price when you buy a trailer ;D


I don't know if I've mentioned this, in this thread, Gazza, but I did build myself a complete trailer for a 6m boat not that many years ago. I was working FIFO at the time, and spent at least 4 R&R's on it, doing little else. Middle of summer up here, in a shed with the door facing the wrong way. I'd bought a 600 quintrex with a roadmaster under it--tandem, but with single leaf slippers. what was a tiny spot of rust under the drawbar tuned into a hole in the next two years, the spring hangers started ripping off, welded them, then a single leaf broke through the middle, destroying the axle, tyre, guard and random other bits, leaving me stranded on a remote road. That gave me the resolve to NEVER have anything like that happen again, so thereafter I have always been anal about trailer strength and reliability.
I basically just copied the Roadmaster, but beefed everything up--4mm SHS drawbar, going into the dual backbone of 4mm RHS. Rollered all the way, with the roller brackets welded on top. Cradle was all 6mm RHS, with the spring hangers welded on, proper load sharing tandem. Refitted the easyloader from the old trailer, and Jarret 3-speed, everything else was new.
I used it as an opportunity to buy a little inverter welder, and a big drop saw, and a few other tools I'd really needed for a long time, as I always seemed to be fabbing stuff with just an angle grinder and old stick welder. From memory, the whole job was around $4K, or maybe a little more. Galvanising, and the freight for the 1200km return trip to the galvanisers, was getting near half of that, IIRC. But it was built like a brick shithouse, and never gave me a moments problem, on the same roads.
I read up on galvanising, and welding practice for same. They say you must leave a relieving hole, as the heat of the process causes a lot of expansion of any air trapped inside, and can be risky. This includes welding flat surfaces together--a decent size relieving hole will allow the gal to penetrate and seal it up a bit, anyway. I fully welded the spring hangers, then left the pre-existing hole in them, on the mounting surface, open. One thing to be very mindful of--the tiniest bit of slag means the gal won't stick. Grind and weld, grind and weld. Or it will come back with little pinholes in the gal, and you will then have to spray cold gal on those spots every year. DAMHIK.

[gazza2006au]

Thanks guys i was planning on running a weld right around the spring hangers but i have seen just the sides done i forgot to put on some sun screen lotion so a little burnt i will give it a few days and finish welding in the spring hangers, going to be a bit tricky welding the inside of the slipper hangers because there is no where to get the tig welder into it

[gazza2006au]

Got a bit of work done today guys bolting down the cross members i also built the plate on the drawbar that joins the rails i have the bottom side done hopefully tomorrow i can finish drilling the shorter front cross member and bolt on the drawbar than i can flip it over and get a good look at how shes looking

I used 250x250x6mm steel plate on the joint top and bottom will be same plates

Once i get the above done i will just need the drive train installed, hitch and brakes set up, i have decided to buy a whinch post as its taking time to get this build done
Forgot i need bunks to but they'll come last

I'll show some pictures when i tidy up my yard, had also lifted the frame off the grass today the amazon jungle almost claimed the trailer

[fishtragic]

Gazza,
Mine ended up a composite trailer with aluminium I beam main frame and cross braces with a new original gal subframe for the running gear.
I made new 75 x 75 drawbar and cross brace, all new roller arms (for 30 rollers) and brackets, winch post, spare wheel bracket, keel roller brackets, all these bits that I fabricated were about $220 to get hot dipped gal and that was still within their minimum cost. For the spring hangers I would weld all round as Noel said, if you can be confident in sealing the join and note well the previous responses about chipping and grinding all slag spot before gal. Even if you have to drill slag spots out and reweld, you'll appreciate it later. I had a steel boat built way back and it cost the builder tens of thousands in warranty to repair slag spotsand porosity that dribbled rust stains through what was supposed to be a professional paint job, after a few months, and repaint. Same thing will happen to slag spots or porosity in welds if you're not careful. As for thread lock I used nylocs with plenty of anti electrolysis compound.
Mark

[gazza2006au]

Thanks Fish, the only steel will be the bolts, drawbar, winch post, u bolts and my front cross member the rest is alloy, i am not happy with my spring hangers so i will grind them back as i have a spare set and reweld seems the new steel was absolutely filthy even after i wire brushed it wasn't enough so i am going to grind clean all surfaces before welding

still have a few of those burn dots on my arms i was to eager to start welding the other day i should have slipped slopped and slapped on a jumper but i never learn so silly really, i will take better precautions when i fix it up

also not sure about my 100x100x3mm drawbar as choice i knew i should have gone with 4mm it's something i have been thinking about since the day i bought it

[gazza2006au]

I will have to measure the OAL i think its about 7-7.5meters i think i may need side markers etc...

[gazza2006au]

Last post was uploaded by mobile so i didn't get the better pictures this post done by laptop, there is some lengthwise flex in the frame i am worried about i am hopping the bunks stiffen it up or i may have to consider something else possibly running some lengths of alloy down along the under side whats peoples opinions on this flex?

plan was to get some adjustable bunk mounts from the USA and bolt on some 100x50mm treated pine but now i am thinking i may need to run 200x75mm treated pine sleepers as bunks and use them to double with the flex of the frame

[catshark]

should stiffen up when you bolt on the running gear. draw bar is close to minimal being 3mm . i reckon you might need to replace the angaline with box section at the front..... . Also 2 long shank 8.8 bolts thru the web and draw bar sandwiching the ends of the alloy against the draw bar.... just an idea. because the rails on both sides can flex length wise , we expect that , but it can flex up and down around the draw bar, so bracing is important and a good suspension will take the pressure off.

[gazza2006au]

Good points Cat i am trying to get some smaller pieces of the 76x76x6mm square hollow sections i know Capral Aluminium where i bought it from only sells full 6 meter lengths at nearly $400 i only need probably 1.5 meters at most, im ummin and arhhin about the steel angle on the front the angle allows me to slide my fingers into the drawbar to attach bolts for a tight fit if i use the 76x76 alloy tubing it might crush from the u bolt when i do up the nuts
I had planned on using two bolts for vertical on that front steel plate with either spacers top and bottom or washers i was also thinking about driving one or two long bolts thru the front of the i beams from side to side but unsure yet

[brett62]

Hi gazza,

You don't want flex in the trailer as this will transfer to the boat. With the design you have chosen you will certainly have some as you are going single axle with slipper springs I think. Tandem with rocker/rollers would certainly be beneficial but we won't go there.

The photos below shows the front draw bar tied into the trailer and you will also see that the keel roller frame is then also tied in so the trailer becomes one unit. You don't need what I have done due to your load being much lighter than what this was designed for but gives you a general idea. 90% of the weight on this trailer is taken on the keel rollers.
Just remember you will be strapping the boat down to the trailer and if the trailer is flexing you will be out fiberglassing again.;)

From memory I don't think you are towing the boat far and on good roads which should not stress the boat badly. If you on sell tho the new owner may have different needs and this will then become their problem if you don't get the trailer right. But that's not to bad as for many years I made money out of fixing boat trailers.

118335118334

[gazza2006au]

Thanks Brett i see your keel rollers bracing will fix my problem but i am trying to avoid rollers all together because of the cost like $10 to $20 each roller i am thinking of running two lengths length wise of aluminium right down the middle of the trailer i could possibly turn these into the bunk supports or have the bunk supports as additional bracing but i think i need that to stiffen things up in the frame so far its only cross wise other than the main outside rails and its relying on the bends in the outside frame for rigidness

[Noelm]

Most trailers are "bendy" when they have no boat on them, you might be worried about nothing?

[gazza2006au]

I think u could be right Noel its not finished yet and i may be over thinking things

found a shop online that does a 1800kg braked axle kit for $500 i am thinking about purchasing it, does anyone know where i could buy 1800kg (pair) rated galvanized springs?

[stevej]

the quintrex ally trailer with no boat on is like a wet noodle

the boat strapped down at the rear and then against the whinch post gives it some rigidity

[brett62]

Thanks Brett i see your keel rollers bracing will fix my problem but i am trying to avoid rollers all together because of the cost like $10 to $20 each roller i am thinking of running two lengths length wise of aluminium right down the middle of the trailer i could possibly turn these into the bunk supports or have the bunk supports as additional bracing but i think i need that to stiffen things up in the frame so far its only cross wise other than the main outside rails and its relying on the bends in the outside frame for rigidness

Correct. Understand you are not going rollers and just showing you how I braced. You can certainly incorporate bracing into your bunks to achieve the same.

Whatever you do, the trailer is to support the boat and not the other way round.

I assume you are building the trailer yourself first to save money and then to possibly have a better item or have I got it wrong again.

[gazza2006au]

Hey Brett the idea was to build it my self for less than a bought trailer i didnt have $4500-$5000 to splash out the plan was to build this trailer for under $2000 using the axles and wheels off my other trailer but those axles are to wide

So far its cost me about $1600, a new braked axle kit is $500 and wheels and winch post plus lights it should come in at under $2500 im hopping

[catshark]

yeah true after launching boat , i always looking how the empty trailer bounces around as i tow it .................. there was a dunbier yard in Ingleburn, they might source out some Gal springs, otherwise go the chinese gal ones......Correction i think all dunbier trailers are now chinese made.
Check out HUNTSMANS products they are into everything trailers, tyres axles bits of this, bits of that.

[gazza2006au]

Have looked around the internet cant source 1800kg springs best i can find are 1700kg they should do tho i will order them when i get more cash

[gazza2006au]

Was looking to order a axle from here https://www.swiftcotrailerparts.com.au/Complete-Axles-Galvanised-X028/50mm-GALDISC-BRAKECALIPERS-SS182/73-inch-1854mmGALVANISED-PARALLEL-Axle50mm-SqDISC-BRAKEFord-Bearings-TPSTA50P73G.html but about $600 does anyone know who can do a gal axle with the mechanical brake ears welded on? looking to piece one together with what cash i have left over after bills, will likely use ebay disc and calipers there about half the price compared to Boeing Trailers or other trailer spare parts shops in Oz

tried looking for local trailer parts i was willing to drive up to All State Trailer Parts but looks like they have gone into only supplying businesses, i tried JPS Metal parts in Sydney they don't do galvanizing one shop i called the other week mentioned i can get a axle galvanized tip to tip than ask the galvanizer to burn off the gal on the ends where the bearings roll it sounded dodgey

any idea what it would cost to gal 1 axle? 1850mm wide

[bluefin59]

http://themehergroup.com/contact-us/
Have a look here they may have what your after they supply to a few different companies ,they have a massive amount of axle options and heaps of other trailer parts . Matt

[Noelm]

Why not just get a plain axle and paint it? can't say I would be too thrilled about galvanising an axle and "burning" the ends clean, but then, it might be done all the time? I am not exactly sure that one heavy spring/axle assembly is going to be as good as a dual setup, even a dual slipper might be better, any spring place (that makes springs) will supply any sort of spring you want, but, they won't galvanise them, Illawarra Springs in Port Kembla will make them for you, they have been in business for a couple of generations and custom make springs for cars, trailer, trucks, trains and everything else you can think of.

[gazza2006au]

Thanks Blue i am in Sydney it cost about an extra $70 for sending a axle from QLD to here if i could walk in and pick one up i would save some coin

Thanks Noel i think i might still go the separate slipper setup as i still have the parts i already bought i know its not an ideal load sharing set up but i already have the trailer frame built, i may go the black axles and paint it that saves a couple hundred bucks, i just called Boeing Trailers they have really cheap gal axle's but they want $100 to weld on two caliper ears and i have to supply all the measurements

i may try call some welders from Gumtree to see if i can get those ears welded on cheaper,Boeing's axles are only about $120 each which is nothing and i can walk in to pick them up, my welders are 180amp 200amp not a chance of welding to the 45mm axle

[shaungonemad]

Thanks Blue i am in Sydney it cost about an extra $70 for sending a axle from QLD to here if i could walk in and pick one up i would save some coin

Thanks Noel i think i might still go the separate slipper setup as i still have the parts i already bought i know its not an ideal load sharing set up but i already have the trailer frame built, i may go the black axles and paint it that saves a couple hundred bucks, i just called Boeing Trailers they have really cheap gal axle's but they want $100 to weld on two caliper ears and i have to supply all the measurements

i may try call some welders from Gumtree to see if i can get those ears welded on cheaper,Boeing's axles are only about $120 each which is nothing and i can walk in to pick them up, my welders are 180amp 200amp not a chance of welding to the 45mm axle

What sort of welder do you have? It doesn’t take that big of a welder to weld them on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[gazza2006au]

Shaun i have a Unimig 180A arc welder with a 17 size tig torch, 2.4mm tungsten i do have a 200A AC/DC tig but i prefer to use the Unimig

forgot to add I'm using 3.2mm filler rod its huge but i am shit at dabbing, heres the welder i have https://unimig.com.au/product/unimig-razorweld-180-amp-mmatig/

i looked up the specs on miller calculator and it says i need 230amps my machine is 50amps short of that to weld

[gazza2006au]

Does anyone know how to calculate the axle width? having trouble here, trailer outside width is 1540mm, new wheels will be zero "0" offset but i dont know how wide the wheels are i cannot find any measurements on ebay, wheels are 195 13" possibly stands for 195mm wide?

one axle calculator is saying i need a tip to tip axle 1990mm another one is saying 1730mm confusing!!!

JP's Metal sells axles in 1727mm and 1930mm https://www.jpsmetal.com.au/home/trailers/axles-1/square-axle.html if someone can help me out with the calculations i may try to pick up both axles tomorrow

calipers, disc/hubs, wheels will have to wait a few more weeks

[gazza2006au]

I am going dual axle as originally planned in this build along i will be running 13" wheels if the tow ball/hitch is to low or to high iwill use one of these pictured to level the trailer out so hopefully both of the slipper spring sets are load sharing

[gazza2006au]

I just used these guys www.mullinstrailerparts.com.au (http://www.mullinstrailerparts.com.au) for my two axle order it was the only shop i came across that rates there 39mm round axles at 1000kg each which is a suprise and they are local to me i saved about $70 by going with these axles over square any penny i can save is much needed as the build is getting up there now, All up cost from buying the aluminium lengths right down to nuts/bolts and cutting disc for the grinder i am in this trailer build so far $1726.02 working out all my ebay purchases and and shop bought receipts its actually looking ok that price does include welding supplies too

just found another two receipts the price i quoted now bumps up forgot about the steel angle total cost $1814.02

[gunna]

Mate had an ally trailer built for his 6.5m half cab. Cost him 12k. You’re doing pretty good so far.

[gazza2006au]

Thanks Gunna, The wheels will be a killer almost $400, Brakes and disc another $220

[gazza2006au]

Going to use the 2 wheels i bought for one of my other trailers, i just went to Wollongong to pick up a 3rd wheel so now i only need 1 more and i have a set of 9 inch wheels for the new trailer, all rims are zero offset and HT stud pattern to match my axles bonus

[Noelm]

Damn, where did you find a 13" Holden HT pattern wheel in Wollongong? I need a couple myself to change my trailer over, getting rid of the 600X9 wheels, going to probably just buy a new couple.

[Dignity]

Damn, where did you find a 13" Holden HT pattern wheel in Wollongong? I need a couple myself to change my trailer over, getting rid of the 600X9 wheels, going to probably just buy a new couple.

Gazza talking about 9 inch, a little shy of the 13 inch you want, I have 3 up here but you'd need to visit the Sunshine Coast for a couple of beers to make it worthwhile.

[gazza2006au]

Yeah the 3 i have are 6.00-9 i still have another set of 4 of these on the old trailer the boat is sitting on so once i have that 4th wheel i will have 8 in total to pick the best 4 from than send the other 4 away with the old trailer after i lift the boat off it

Noel 13" wheels are only $50 plus $22 postage on Ebay i found a guy on Facebook with a set of 4, 13" but the side walls were cracked

[Dignity]

Guys, the rims are one thing, the tyres altogether different, they actually have an expiry, usually found on the tyre, generally a 5 year life. Don't discount it as usually when a tyre fails it is usually out of date even though it looks perfect.
Gazza, cracked side walls, are they paying you to take them to the tip.

[gazza2006au]

Dig i was already factoring in new tyres think they were $60 each from GeoTyres i think i will need the 9" wheels for there low height and i already had 2 wheels, not the best size tyres to find but they'll do

[Noelm]

The 600X9 tyres will support a lot of weight, much more than just about any 13" around these days, and the diameter is not much different because the 9" are very high profile, I am only changing mine over because of a problem with a couple of the rims and my hubs, there is two types of 600X9 Velox rims, the back of some suit only a specific hub because of a casting ridge, my trailer has both types and I can't interchange them, I got a flat tyre the other day and my spare only fits the rear set of hubs, so I had a root around swapping wheels so I could fit the spare on to get home.

[gazza2006au]

Yeah thats the problem i ran into Noel i think from memory the normal holden hubs are 140mm diameter and there is a rarer to find hub that is i think 120mm they are sold on ebay lucky u mentioned this Noel i totally forgot all about it

and yeah these little wheels can carry 500kgs+ per tyre so my trailer should be rated 2000kg once finished i hope the mechanic rates it for this

[stevej]

combined tyre load rating has to exceed the carrying atm of the trailer, i just cant remember by how much.

13 inch tyres are bloody hard to find i bring 13 inch tyres in from the uk from demon tweaks for the historic car
might be luckier with light truck types but unfortunately lots of cheap chinese shit about.

[Noelm]

Stay away from the rubbish cheap Chinese ones if you can, they are barely OK for a tinny towing short distances, any weight at highway speeds will see them crumble in no time.

[gazza2006au]

Think i built the trailer a little to long trying to figure out how to shorten it, the drawbar might look dicky with around 1.5 meters space between car and front of boat

[scottar]

Why shorten it. Lose the overhanging of the bunks.

[gazza2006au]

Can't move my wheels anymore forward Scott due to the way i originally designed it with the bends far back on the rails i am just hopping it does balance out or i'm not sure how i will fix it

the old trailer the wheel assembly is about 50/50 under the hull but this is with no engine and no fuel tank, the ball weight as it was was around 150kg took 4 of us to lift it on to the tow ball when i towed it home

[gazza2006au]

Noel i'll send u a link to a place with those 9 inch tyres

[RayLamp]

I think the long drawbar could have its advantages - tow car is further up a slippery ramp when launching; you might be able to beach launch; and unlike my setup, you'd easily be able to lift up a rear door on the tow car when your boat is on the trailer.

[gazza2006au]

Ray i never thought about that my new tow car is a Land Rover Freelander and the rear door swings out sideways rather than lift up so it might work too

[catshark]

fan of a longer draw bar, but are you thinking you may have more towball weight or some flexing.

[Dignity]

fan of a longer draw bar, but are you thinking you may have more towball weight or some flexing.

Totally agree, I went for a longer draw bar but found with changes in configuration and weight etc I needed to bring my winch post forward 100 mm ( already got axles about as far back as practicable) and now can't fully open the door. Stuck a traffic cone on the Mooloolaba Pick, saves the door but more importantly my head when I'm un/hitching the boat.

[gazza2006au]

fan of a longer draw bar, but are you thinking you may have more towball weight or some flexing.
Little worried about the flexing but i plan on adding two long pieces of either alloy or steel along the trailer and use U bolts to bolt them on should stiffen it up i am thinking plus when i add the bunks that will help too

[catshark]

those beach launching dudes have the swing out draw bar to get their reach, some flexing their off course , but unless your going far away, should be reasonable.

[U4REEL]

I have a short drawbar on my Kevlacat 2400, sucks not being able to lift the tailgate door on a cruiser all the way up without smashing the screen on a sarca! Leave it long if ya can

[gazza2006au]

I'll see how it looks when im about to bolt on the drawbar that will likely be the last bit of the frame i do, the boarder collie in my pics i had for 14 years poor bugger got put to sleep yesterday i am shattered

[rayken1938]

Sorry about your loss.
Cheers
Ray

[Dignity]

I have a short drawbar on my Kevlacat 2400, sucks not being able to lift the tailgate door on a cruiser all the way up without smashing the screen on a sarca! Leave it long if ya can

Bungy cord and traffic cone, some nice big ones should cover the sarca and at the very least protect your screen.

[efc]

Sorry about your lose Gazza.
Long time reader of your posts.
I had to put down my border collie x kelpie last year, she was 19.
Thoughts are with you bud, keep your chin up!

[swof63]

Sorry Gazza I know it’s a real bugger

Had to put down my 5 year old Bengal boy start of this year due to a nasty gut problem. Was my little mate followed me everywhere, still gutted.

Thoughts are with you mate. People without furkids don’t get it.


Sent from my iPad using Ausfish forums

[gazza2006au]

Im in my late 30's no children so my pets are my world, this year i lost a mate i lost my last grand parent now i lost my long time pal he use to sit right next to me each hour each day i would work on the boat while im working on the trailer he would sit in the she next to me loved him so much, feeding my other dogs last night i washed his bowl for the last time and put it in the cupboard, whole experience is so emotional, i will probably keep looking under the boat for him

First pet that has been mine from the beginning to end a long 14 years of friendship just glad he is no longer sufferring

[gunna]

It’s the end of the suffering that helps. I had to put my girl down a week ago. She was our late son’s dog so there was an extra emotional attachment for us. But seeing her end her suffering makes you realise that it’s the right thing and brings some relief from the loss.

[gazza2006au]

Gunna i took him to the vet for arthritis 3 years ago he has been on the decline since, he was still able to walk around but doesn't run and he always wants to play tug of war with the younger staffies but he struggles he just didnt have the energy to play anymore

i haven't heard anything about my axles since i bought them i am hopping the shop is just closed for the holidays if i don't hear anything by tues/wed i will call them

[gazza2006au]

Trailer is almost ready to flip i bolted on the last and most front cross member for the underside i used the 8mm thick angle i bought the other week drilled one hole in each end and bolted it on, i also slid my drawbar way back as it sits the boat will be 3/4th the length of the outside alloy rails so there is no point having a big dicky 1.5 meter extended drawbar being a short drawbar this will still allow me to open the back door on the Land Rover it actually looks like its coming together now and looks like a good trailer design i'm not 100 percent sure about the angle mentioned that is bolted on the bottom the mechanic may say its sharp corners are a no no so i will see if that's the case i will round them off with the grinder

i have one hole to drill that is at the mentioned cross member right up thru the rear of the drawbar so i need to get it spot on center with no cock up's...or the drawbar will be off center

i am really struggling of late with this weather in sydney if i walk out side and look at the trailer i am sweating like i'm working near a furnace just hard to find any motivation to work in that kind of weather need some cloudy days... charged batteries... and some free time!

really need some cool days to get the welding done i sweat that much it comes thru the gloves but it must be done

[gazza2006au]

Flipped her over today trying to work out if i want my cross member at the rear of the drawbar on top of the chassis or inside of it any thoughts? its 50x50x5mm angle iron steel trying to use what i had bought, the lower front cross member is sixty five x sixty five x 8mm and is a little bit in front of the end of the drawbar i wanted to brace the drawbar from the top and the bottom in two locations as for more strength

[catshark]

i suppose you could install lower front crossmember as planned, lined up with rear of draw bar and thru bolt this, there would be the gap the same width as the flange so pack up with nylon washers, insert bolts at the opening of the rear of draw bar downwards thru the alloy box section underneath, there would be like two holesaw holes cut out say 25 mm to insert nuts via a extension piece on a cordless, rattle away and for the top , mirrior this but weld flat bar on the draw bar and bolt into flanges. trailer is looking good and the weather is indeed putrid, its draining.

[gazza2006au]

Cat im not sure if to use washers or buy some flat plate to take up the gap between drawbar and cross member, washers would work i was planning on going that route but it will leave a big gap between the two metals

[gazza2006au]

This is where i want my wheels but it means the rear axle is directly under the cross member i remember reading something about the axle cannot be within 40cm of the frame or something to that degree it was a long time ago i read it and i may have my info wrong but does anyone know anything about this? i looked at the Vsb1 builders design and it said nothing about it

just realized my 3rd wheel has the inner diameter of the smaller wheel bugger going to be hard to find brake disc for these wheels

[Noelm]

Not too sure about the axle being close to a cross member, as long as it has room to move when the suspension works, it should be fine, you can get brake hubs for those wheels, I had them on mine, the brake disc is actually kind of outside the rim.

[gazza2006au]

Yeah i have those disc on my old trailer i am tempted to take them off for the new trailer and just install lazy hubs on the old trailer as the old trailer will likely be a free giveaway to whoever will tow it away

[gazza2006au]

Contacted the trailer place my axles are being shipped in should be here this week, just wondering do i have to weld on axle pads on round axles? i have removed both square and round axles from trailers for painting only some have axle pads others don't are they required?

[Noelm]

Most have them, just to locate the spring properly.

[gazza2006au]

Ok Thanks Noel

[scottar]

All depends on your springs. If you are using single leaf springs they are a must...…..as a mate found out the hard way. Went over a level crossing after a trailer rebuild and the axle slipped back on the spring destroying the guard but thankfully missing the hull by centimetres. Would have been an "exciting" event for sure. Personally I would weld them on.

[gazza2006au]

Yeah i will weld them on thanks

[Jason Green]

You have to weld them on as they are spacers for the centre pin bolt on your springs so the head or nut doesn’t wear off and they also keep your axles aligned in the correct position on your springs so they can’t move forward or backwards


Sent from my iPhone using Ausfish forums

[gazza2006au]

Thanks guys, This is roughly where and how the boat will sit going to use 200x50mm or 200x75mm sleepers as my bunks these will be resting on the cross members/frame

from the very last cross member to the back of the drawbar is 5.3 meters the boat is 5.7 meters long so there will be a small amount of overhang off the rear and the wheels should be roughly under the center

[scottar]

As you can't move your wheels Gazza, Maybe you can come up with some way of moving the bunks instead to get the weight distribution right - just need to be able to move the winch post as well.

[gazza2006au]

It's a bit tricky as it looks in the picture with a outboard on there i would be close to the 1.2m over hang i should have put a little more thought into where i bent the i beams but shes done now

the wheels on the old trailer sit right under the middle of the hull but without a outboard on the boat so i'm thinking it may be ok

[Noelm]

The wheels need to back further than the centre of the boat, all the weight is in the stern, motor, batteries and so on, but there is no way to test it, you will only know when the boat is on the trailer.

[scottar]

The wheels need to back further than the centre of the boat, all the weight is in the stern, motor, batteries and so on, but there is no way to test it, you will only know when the boat is on the trailer.

For sure Noel. Just looking at it, I suspect the boat will need to come forward on the trailer until it is almost in the "traditional" position with the stern just behind the last crossmember. If it was mine I would be making sure the winch post is movable or if that was going to be difficult, simply don't fit it until the boat was in full battle trim on the trailer - then work on the 10% rule of thumb using a towball scale to position it.

[RayLamp]

It could be an idea to move the boat forward a bit as you would ideally like the fuel tank to be over the wheels. If the weight was too far back, you'd think it wouldn't tow well either.

[Moejoes]

A bit like this Raylamp……

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jk9H5AB4lM




It could be an idea to move the boat forward a bit as you would ideally like the fuel tank to be over the wheels. If the weight was too far back, you'd think it wouldn't tow well either.

[catshark]

great example that video, dont want to get the wobbles up, also any protrusion more than a metre behind the rear tail lights need a reg flag to signal the over hang or constable keith will nick ya.....for a few dollars more.

[RayLamp]

A bit like this Raylamp……

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jk9H5AB4lM
Spot on :)

I reckon the same principle applies to any 70's and 80's Porsche 911...

[gazza2006au]

Thanks for the advice much appreciated, i plan on buying a winch post and U bolting it on i will be able to move it as far forward as the yellow line in the picture below

[gazza2006au]

Both axles have been picked up i ordered 1880mm and there stamped 1850mm i had ordered axles with an extra 25mm just to be safe i guess that went out the window

surprisingly my cousin had a nice 6.00-9 wheel sitting in his back yard so i grabbed that cheering

just need to pick up some new spring hangers the middle type that is where the eye of one spring sides on top of the leaf bit of the other spring i think this will be te best type to get

also need to pick up a couple 39mm round brake ear mounts and weld them on, i have a bit on my plate atm currently putting a new clutch in the land rover freelander that is priority at the moment i will be back on the trailer shortly

[ranmar850]

Great video, but unfortunately some people will then say that more weight on the ball the better, which simply isn't true. People saying a minimum of 10% are just wrong, 7% has been shown to be a good number. BUT, don't try to reduce towball weight by loading a trailer aft, or you will get the results shown. I've certainly experienced it myself, with a tonne plus of fish and ice on a tandem, not loaded quite right, had to tow it 600k to market. But the one that sticks in my mind waas a mate who was passenger in a cruiser ute, towing a tandem with a load of sand/metal mix which had been shovelled on, and not spread forward. This bloke doesn't scare easy, but he reckoned he saw his life flash before his eyes doing 110 downhill, when it started....

[gazza2006au]

I had a 18.5 foot mid 1990's model Swift Craft the huge half cabin boat, old mate i had bought it off took the tandem trailer from under neath it and replaced it with a single axle trailer i didnt know much about it nothing really at all i just knew it was an absolute bargain at $4500 itwas easy a 10k to 12k boat, anyhow towing it home i entered the Swansea (NSW) on ramp to the motor way and as soon as i went over 80kph it started to sway dangerously obviously the trailer was the wrong type single axle and the boat was huge and incorrectly weight distributed so i have some experience with a load incorrectly loaded and i most defiantly don't want to go down that road again

this is a long term keeper so the trailer and boat will be set up perfect

[Lovey80]

Wow 17 pages.

[gazza2006au]

Guys you can all laugh at me all you like...

This is the design i am going with i have my middle high spring hangers on there way these will utilize spring on top of spring i know a lot of u said to go against it but i have everything already

the steel angle i picked up on ebay about six meters for $1 its something like 110x75mm and 10mm thick its way over kill but the 10mm thickness should add to the trailers strength

the way i plan on going about it is noticing out a piece of the angle steel to slot around the cross member on the trailer its the only idea i can come up with that keeps the wheel bases close together since they are 9" wheels they are tiny

i really need this trailer as a roller ASAP so i can move it onto a flat bed truck, with cooler days coming i can start welding

[Noelm]

How far are you moving?

[gazza2006au]

Still staying in the Western Suburbs of Sydney

[gazza2006au]

Didn't want to fart ass around moving the job in all different positions so just left it in one spot and tried my hand at multiple positions it worked ok and not so ok, had the gas wondering around when welding under the bent sides of the spring hangers i don't know how to fix it i may need to ask however the flat cut sides laid down ok

thought i had all my porosity problems sorted i cleaned the steel really well both pieces to be joined

Steve no comments needed about my welding.

[brett62]

Hi gazza,

Mate is there no one around your area that could teach you a little more on welding with a TIG.

Do you have a stick welder you can fix this up with. Welding out in the open with any gas shielding process is going to be a little how you going. Won't be a good day when the hangers decide to leave the angle.

Wish you were closer to Brisbane to give you hand.

[gazza2006au]

Brett most of the welds came ok one of the welds is here, its the porosity that has me by the balls its bubbling and sparkling the weld but i cant help it as its drawing it up from under the spring hanger, some welds i couldn't control hand shake so the welds were a little wider than others

[brett62]

Brett most of the welds came ok one of the welds is here, its the porosity that has me by the balls its bubbling and sparkling the weld but i cant help it as its drawing it up from under the spring hanger, some welds i couldn't control hand shake so the welds were a little wider than others

Gazza you don't weld steel with a TIG like aluminium. Steel you leave the filler rod in the weld pool and work the torch and filler rod up and down like a weave. Aluminium you dip the filler wire in and out of the pool but always keeping in the gas envelope.

Also are you welding with DC and what tungsten are you using. Not sure what type of machine you have but what are you running the torch on DC+ or DC-.

[gazza2006au]

Brett dcen as per millers calculator, im using red tunsten 2.4mm filler rod is 3.2mm because i cant keep up with 2.4mm rods, my machine is maxed at 180amps its a Unimig razor 180amp arc/tig i have a v17 tig torch hooked up

So your saying i should be walking the cup?