Seafarer Victory - Hardtop conversion.

[scottar]

And so it begins. Got the screen off today. Down to Alfab one day this week with any luck to confirm suitability of the new screen. Not sure at this stage whether I will glass up a trim to take the hook out of the coaming or not for the sliders - it will also make for a better match to the screen curve as it's slightly different to the original.

117864

[chocolatemoose]

Awesome project man! looking forward to seeing how it all turns out D:

[Chimo]

Me too. Interesting to see which way it goes.

[MyWay]

Awesome project

[Dirtyfuzz]

And so it begins. Got the screen off today. Down to Alfab one day this week with any luck to confirm suitability of the new screen. Not sure at this stage whether I will glass up a trim to take the hook out of the coaming or not for the sliders - it will also make for a better match to the screen curve as it's slightly different to the original.

117864

Alfab are pretty good, takes awhile as they are the main guys for cruise craft etc and not cheap but they did a good job on my kevlacat 4 piece that I destroyed trying to get off because of seized screws and would imagine they can fab anything you ask of them!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[scottar]

Alfab are pretty good, takes awhile as they are the main guys for cruise craft etc and not cheap but they did a good job on my kevlacat 4 piece that I destroyed trying to get off because of seized screws and would imagine they can fab anything you ask of them!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep - have already been out there twice to annoy Owen. More than helpful. They aren't cheap as you say but the product is top notch. The hard part is the glass - there are only a couple of curve formats to work with. The sliders are easy and are all custom - about 6 weeks from measure.

[Chimo]

What are you doing for a roof?

[scottar]

What are you doing for a roof?

Fibreglass Chimo. Was initially thinking about glass over foam strip plank to save requiring a mold but an old industry contact has offered the use of one if it suits, which at a quick glance it might. I need to get the screen on as a start and get the targa cut and plated so I have some firm measurements before I get too far into it. The main concern with the screen is that the full height one that best fits is too wide to allow a centre window. It looks like it can go in as a two piece provided the angles play the game - should know more tomorrow with any luck. The more I look at it the more I think I am going to level out the side coamings with a 50mm trim as well but all revolves around the screen. I have specific storage height requirements and had hoped to avoid the extra cost of fabricating a totally new targa.

[Chimo]

As you can see in my pic I went with the original screen and kept the clears above that can be opened for breeze of closed to keep moisture at bay. Seems to work well enough.
The weakness in my set up is the side to side stability especially with big chop or boat wakes even in the Broadwater when traveling at speed. The guy who did my stainless steel originally and then did this upgrade did not build in adequate side way stability and unfortunately he has since passed. The targa was cut and plated and the original rocket launcher sits on top of the FRP in connection with the original. The front SS is were we didnt go far enough re side stability at speed and in rough water.

My frp top has good forward reach for a good eyebrow and similar side cover as well but not so much as to limit passage to the bow via the sides. We extended the frp top to the rear over the top of the rear sunbrella and we have no leaks between the intersection of "new" frp and old sunbrella.

Side to side stability is worth being careful about IMHO..

Cheers
Chimo

[scottar]

As you can see in my pic I went with the original screen and kept the clears above that can be opened for breeze of closed to keep moisture at bay. Seems to work well enough.
The weakness in my set up is the side to side stability especially with big chop or boat wakes even in the Broadwater when traveling at speed. The guy who did my stainless steel originally and then did this upgrade did not build in adequate side way stability and unfortunately he has since passed. The targa was cut and plated and the original rocket launcher sits on top of the FRP in connection with the original. The front SS is were we didnt go far enough re side stability at speed and in rough water.

My frp top has good forward reach for a good eyebrow and similar side cover as well but not so much as to limit passage to the bow via the sides. We extended the frp top to the rear over the top of the rear sunbrella and we have no leaks between the intersection of "new" frp and old sunbrella.

Side to side stability is worth being careful about IMHO..

Cheers
Chimo

I hear you Chimo. When I originally broached this project - 2 plus years ago I was going to do the same thing - keep the clears. I have since decided I really f*&^%%g hate zippers and press studs and the corrosion issues and leaks they provide. The stainless guys I approached initially basically said -"just don't - the stainless will crack because of side to side motion. Not a case of if so much as when." This was primarily caused by my not wanting 45 degree cross bracing across the helm's vision like you see so often. With that in mind coupled with a big downturn in income, the project got shelved until now where further discussion more or less lead to the full wrap around screen. If that doesn't work it will be the full fibreglass wheelhouse but I'm a lot less partial to that than wrap around glass - the big curves in the corners cause a bit of a visibility issue IMO.

[Chimo]

There is a lot of forward overhang and as a result almost no spray etc gets past the clears and vis is good when needed and the breeze is also appreciated in summer etc

[scottar]

Ive had the nose dip a couple of times while trolling.....once with the clears down. Full height screen it is. Hopefully the ventilation from the sliders is sufficient. If not a roof hatch should sort it. The last hardtop I spent time in was alloy with just a carpet underlining and I found it ok so with glass being a better insulator it should be all good.

[Chimo]

If you think a trolling nose dip is exciting you haven't lived until you experience the Broadwater junction with the Coomera with a fleet of big mothers to add to the short chop.
After experiencing that once and watching the water run up to 4/5th the height of the screen one learns about trimming for slow speed mixed with accompanying Rivs and similar./
I don't think my front stainless support is at any risk of fatigue cracking, for the most part the clears do add almost enough side stability except when the driver is almost hooning.

[Noelm]

If you have a close look at the hardtops on the US boats, you can see how they angle the struts to add side to side stability, I have a similar issue with the stainless T top on my boat, because it is fixed to the floor, there is about 2m of metal to wobble around, I temporarily put a stainless hose clamp on both sides to the grab rail, that was 2 years ago! I must get around to getting some "bits" made to weld to the console grab rail, but you know how these things go, the crap hose clamp fix up works, so I just keep forgetting about it.

[ranmar850]

Mine is rock solid, sandwich construction , rated for walking on, and attached to the screen at the front and a stainless brace at the back. this will be stronger and more stable than having the whole thing potentially wobble about on stainless tubing. I reckon a zipped section at the front is always going to leak. It "can" have the advantage of giving you clear view over the screen at night , when looking through glass is always fraught and reduces your vision--usually the first thing blokes complain about when they upgrade to the long awaited hardtop and find there are drawbacks. My ventilation is taken care of by overhead 300mm Bomar hatches, good wind scoops. I don't have side glass, just clears over the triangular window. can you fit wipers with the curved glass? wouldn't be without mine.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-qnWBLMv/0/7edede12/XL/20180509_122727-1525924285624-XL.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-g6DQ4xh/0/09ef8dd9/XL/20180509_131323-XL.jpg

After I had fitted the Rupp Revolution uotrigger bases--expensive but so incredibly easy to work with and don't interfere with walking around the side.




https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-96PqNMn/0/2e2cbf40/XL/20180620_152152-XL.jpg

[scottar]

Thanks for the interest lads. Well, there are two shiny new curved glass screens on the spare bed in the back room - let the games begin. First step is the fabrication of the trim to allow for the difference in the window footprint and to eliminate the hook in the side coaming. As it's not likely to have water issues, at this stage at least we are going glass over ply - it needs good screw retention and good compression capabilities so while ply will be a bit heavier, I can't see what is required being an issue. Talking to my glassing contact this arvo, the decision has been made to simply go with poly resin - above the water line so any resin was suitable and the finish will be two pack. I'll laminate the ply with epoxy glue/filler as it will only be between the layers and not where the poly is trying to stick to the timber. What could go wrong ::)

[scottar]

If you think a trolling nose dip is exciting you haven't lived until you experience the Broadwater junction with the Coomera with a fleet of big mothers to add to the short chop.
After experiencing that once and watching the water run up to 4/5th the height of the screen one learns about trimming for slow speed mixed with accompanying Rivs and similar./
I don't think my front stainless support is at any risk of fatigue cracking, for the most part the clears do add almost enough side stability except when the driver is almost hooning.

LOL. I've lived more than enough. Many moons ago we did a midnight crossing of the SPB...…….and had a rather large f&^%up - two big green ones up the bow and thru clears in the middle of winter. Without a doubt the single most scary event of my time on the water and a very, very uncomfortable evening - Never trust a GPS for bar crossing LOL. This was in the old Trymax 5.9 Victory. Nose dips on big pressure waves were reasonably common on the old northern channel. I've also punched one in my own Vic on the Pin bar - it's hard to hang on, control the throttle, steer and zip the clears up all at once ::) - I do a pretty fair octopus impression. Bet it was funny to watch.

[scottar]

If you have a close look at the hardtops on the US boats, you can see how they angle the struts to add side to side stability, I have a similar issue with the stainless T top on my boat, because it is fixed to the floor, there is about 2m of metal to wobble around, I temporarily put a stainless hose clamp on both sides to the grab rail, that was 2 years ago! I must get around to getting some "bits" made to weld to the console grab rail, but you know how these things go, the crap hose clamp fix up works, so I just keep forgetting about it.

Yep - that's the bit I hate Noel. It would literally do my head in looking around a 45 degree brace across the drivers field of view all day.

[scottar]

She has come up nice Ranmar. They do fit wipers mate - from underneath so the motor is in the cabin. I use a couple of rod holder inserts in the targa for my rigger bases and would only belt my already bashed up noggin on those - they do look the goods though. Courtesy of storage height restriction I am absolutely zero chance of getting anything like that high enough to avoid the expletives.

[catshark]

very tidy and functional hardtop i ever saw, neat work.

[ranmar850]

Storage height is certainly the issue. I can't get it under the verandah, so all the makings for an 8.2m long carport, extending off the verandah front, are sitting in the other driveway awaiting attention. It goes under until the rear of the hardtop reaches the verandah, and the small car goes in front of it. So the whole boat project just cost me another 3 grand .

[scottar]

Storage height is certainly the issue. I can't get it under the verandah, so all the makings for an 8.2m long carport, extending off the verandah front, are sitting in the other driveway awaiting attention. It goes under until the rear of the hardtop reaches the verandah, and the small car goes in front of it. So the whole boat project just cost me another 3 grand .

Funny how that happens. My kids first car just did the same to me LOL. I'm not finished yet either - still 50 odd metres of pavers to put down (I'm in no rush ;D).

[scottar]

Well, got the dreaded short term unemployment phone call last night - no work till next week.............How convenient I thought. Off to bunnings this morning after spending an hour argueing with some 3mm MDF attempting to make templates>:( - no dice. Ended up using the thinnest furniture protection plastic they had - bit like industrial strength cling wrap as a starter template. Worked a heap better than builders film would have as it clung to the glass and didn't move about. Due to all the curves, I still had to put it down in 4 pieces. The critical part was accurately marking all the old bolt holes accurately. Next was transferring the shape to 3mm MDF - which is where the bolt holes became really important. After half an hour teaching the neighbours a new dialect, I ended up using the old screen - which courtesy of the grabrail held it's shape perfectly, to mark onto the MDF all the old bolt holes as accurately as I could. The bolt holes marked on the plastic film were then aligned with the ones on the MDF and the plastic traced around. The MDF was cut, trimmed and sanded until I was happy with it and then using some pine moulding and hot glue braced so it wouldn't break or move.

117879

Next step was transferring this to marine ply. When I got to Bunnings this morning, I grabbed a sheet and thought " wholy sheet - that's heavy" and have to admit was briefly concerned. I needn't have worried. The ply I ended up with is 9mm and each cut out would be lucky to weigh 2kg - most of the sheet is wastage. At a guess the finished product will be well less than 20kg once glassed and painted. I got two cut outs from each sheet - they don't go all the way to where the coaming finishes but with 5 thicknesses and staggered joins they will be fine. I got 4 done by close of business - one more tomorrow and sort out the hooks at the end and then I'll glue them together. At this stage I am considering some hardwood dowels as alignment aids for the gluing process just to make life easy. I'm pretty happy with how it's all looking - I don't find the addition obtrusive to look at even in a raw unshaped form - once it's been shaped and sanded it should be better again.

117880117881 sorry about the pic orientation.

[TheRealAndy]

Pro tip, if you want to make patterns, use lots of small strips of thin ply (3mm) or cardboard and a hot melt glue gun. Have a bunch of cloths pegs handy to hold the bits together whilst the glue sets.

If you need to hold a shape, then ply is better and you can glue in bits of cross bracing to hold it together.

[scottar]

Pro tip, if you want to make patterns, use lots of small strips of thin ply (3mm) or cardboard and a hot melt glue gun. Have a bunch of cloths pegs handy to hold the bits together whilst the glue sets.

If you need to hold a shape, then ply is better and you can glue in bits of cross bracing to hold it together.

Yeah I sort of tried that Andy - there isn't a straight line on that coaming - even the sides that at first glance look straight - aren't. Lost my shit, threw the toys out of the cot and went looking for some heavy film like the trimmers use for templating. The stuff I got wasn't it but actually ended up better with it's tendancy to cling. The only real issue with it was when I tried to transfer the image to the MDF, I was half in the sun and it lost any sort of stiffness and went anywhere it wanted . Ten minutes in the shade sorted that though.

[gazza2006au]

Hey Scottar u could use plywood of any thickness u like to make the template lets say u pick 9mm grab a circular saw and set the blade to cut 6mm and run a series of cuts close to each other you'll find the plywood will bend around curves very easily than just fill all those line cuts with a glue mixture let it cure and the template will be rock hard

also forgot to mention plywood comes in a different density weights u can get like 450kilo a square meter up to the marine stuff is i think 850kilo a square meter but i wouldn't worry to much about the weight once u cut out there windscreen and side windows you'll only have a fraction of the plywood left and it will take only a small amount of resin and cloth to cover, also if u run radius in your corners of the windscreen and side windows of the plywood it will make the structure so much more stronger even if those radius's are only the size of a cup but extend the length horizontally and vertically 300-350mm u probably only need 30-35mm it would barely impact your vision but it would be a ton stronger than just running a thin outline around the windows as structure

at the back top of the hard top add some gussets i think they are called just small triangles this should stop the whole lot shaking side to side when u go over swell or chop

[TheRealAndy]

Yeah I sort of tried that Andy - there isn't a straight line on that coaming - even the sides that at first glance look straight - aren't. Lost my shit, threw the toys out of the cot and went looking for some heavy film like the trimmers use for templating. The stuff I got wasn't it but actually ended up better with it's tendancy to cling. The only real issue with it was when I tried to transfer the image to the MDF, I was half in the sun and it lost any sort of stiffness and went anywhere it wanted . Ten minutes in the shade sorted that though.

Even if there are no straight edges, its easier to shape a small section then stitch them together.

[scottar]

Hey Scottar u could use plywood of any thickness u like to make the template lets say u pick 9mm grab a circular saw and set the blade to cut 6mm and run a series of cuts close to each other you'll find the plywood will bend around curves very easily than just fill all those line cuts with a glue mixture let it cure and the template will be rock hard

also forgot to mention plywood comes in a different density weights u can get like 450kilo a square meter up to the marine stuff is i think 850kilo a square meter but i wouldn't worry to much about the weight once u cut out there windscreen and side windows you'll only have a fraction of the plywood left and it will take only a small amount of resin and cloth to cover, also if u run radius in your corners of the windscreen and side windows of the plywood it will make the structure so much more stronger even if those radius's are only the size of a cup but extend the length horizontally and vertically 300-350mm u probably only need 30-35mm it would barely impact your vision but it would be a ton stronger than just running a thin outline around the windows as structure

at the back top of the hard top add some gussets i think they are called just small triangles this should stop the whole lot shaking side to side when u go over swell or chop

It's not a full wheelhouse set up Gazza - think more Cruisecraft, Signature or Tournament. Nothing in the walls besides glass and window frames. The ply is simply to get rid of the hook in the side coaming so the sliders have a flat surface to mount into - it also raises the screen high enough so I don't have the bottom edge of the window frame in my vision when standing up.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=GWOIVM29&id=D78D4C4BA2016E1663EBD5778AEA6F8BBCB1E69C&thid=OIP.GWOIVM29FzCmuADSdzR0nwHaE8&mediaurl=https%3a%2f%2feditorial.pxcrush.net%2fboa tsales%2fgeneral%2feditorial%2fge54234640240301109 27.jpg%3fwidth%3d1024%26height%3d683&exph=683&expw=1024&q=Tournament+hard+top+boats+Australia&simid=608016506757579028&selectedIndex=1&cbir=sbi&ajaxhist=0

Similar to this but with a short clear behind the slider

[scottar]

Even if there are no straight edges, its easier to shape a small section then stitch them together.

Probably where I was going wrong - trying to do too big of an area all at once. We live and learn …...and throw the odd wobbly in the middle::)

[Dignity]

I also found that the difference between Bunnings marine ply and that from local timber suppliers is like chalk and cheese, B uses the lightest, coarsest sheeting.

[scottar]

I also found that the difference between Bunnings marine ply and that from local timber suppliers is like chalk and cheese, B uses the lightest, coarsest sheeting.

Yeah possibly Sam. Part of it was convenience - it's 2 minutes down the road and thus I am game to just slot the sheet in the back of the cruiser and leave the tail gate up. Anywhere else meant a whole lot more stuffing around getting the old man's trailer - half a day versus 15 minutes. They had Gunnersons labels on the racking - who knows. I wasn't too worried - if I was actually doing work down in the hull I would have looked harder. At any rate she's all epoxied together and sitting under anything I could find in the garage to put weight on it...……..Tomorrow we sand.....and sand......and sand. You get the drift.::)

[scottar]

117885

All glued up. Windscreen test fit to get a line to work to and sanding tomorrow with any luck.

[tenzing]

wow, totally fascinated by this process.
Theres less hook in that than I would have imagined.
One of the bugbears has always been that tiny dribble through the screen that would flow to the low point just above the throttle.!
Not any more hey!

Keep the pics coming
Cheers
Brendan

[scottar]

wow, totally fascinated by this process.
Theres less hook in that than I would have imagined.
One of the bugbears has always been that tiny dribble through the screen that would flow to the low point just above the throttle.!
Not any more hey!

Keep the pics coming
Cheers
Brendan

You have no idea Brendan 😂. Drove me to distraction and ultimately this. I had pretty much fixed the dribble by filling the side screens with silicone. The other way would be to drill some drain holes in the outer side making a new lowest point for the water to exit the frame. It still didn't fix leaky clears or zips that corrode if not used regularly though. The hook ended up at about 60mm. There are 6 layers of 9mm ply laminated together in that assembly. The new dash top will be perfectly flat so even if the new windows did leak a bit, I can fit a drip rail and force the water right to the corner.

[tenzing]

You have no idea Brendan 😂. Drove me to distraction and ultimately this. I had pretty much fixed the dribble by filling the side screens with silicone. The other way would be to drill some drain holes in the outer side making a new lowest point for the water to exit the frame. It still didn't fix leaky clears or zips that corrode if not used regularly though. The hook ended up at about 60mm. There are 6 layers of 9mm ply laminated together in that assembly. The new dash top will be perfectly flat so even if the new windows did leak a bit, I can fit a drip rail and force the water right to the corner.

I actually had the screen re-sealed by australian marine windows some years ago.
That fixed about 90%
the clears are sail trak on so dont leak at bottom and have a vybak flap over the zip (never used) which cuts that to nearly zero.
I have a low (for my height) roof height and fair brow. I can open the whole clears from drivers side at its junction with the roof which gives plenty ventilation and for tallies like me a good view at night.
Clears are still perfect after 8 years or so, so most days not a problem.
Still just that little bit on rough days, just down next to the right hand.

Ive always intended to put a little drain in there. doesnt really matter where to. Always,always get the hose up behind binnacle after use . Have a plate behind throttle which is only sealed on top half so rinse water can drain.
cheers
Brendan

[scottar]

Bit more progress today. First test fit to get a sanding line and then into action with the sanding gear - my new best friend - the belt sander. Got a fair bit of sanding done - bit tricky trying to integrate two different curves. Bit to go yet.

117888 117889

I got NFI what is going on with picture orientation round these parts. Enjoy the handstands fellas

[soulfish]

Taking shape mate..cant wait to see it finished.

[Noelm]

I always have trouble with picture orientation on this site, my iPad always puts them upside down, even if I change the source orientation, I think it's a " feature"

[Chimo]

117892
Looks good

[Chimo]

117893 This is easier to appreciate too
copy
pasted into infranview
rotated
enlarged
copied
pasted back into AF.

[scottar]

117929Finished shaping today. Bogged with q-cell mix and sanded and two layers of 350CSM applied to the underside and sides. Hopefully the weekend will see the glass work complete. Learned a few things

I hate fibreglass
I hate fibreglass
Don't reuse a mixing pot
I hate fibreglass
My one good idea of the day was a plastic drop sheet
I hate fibreglass
Rain is a real PITA when trying to do these sorts of projects
and - I hate fibreglass. Give me electricity any day.
.

[Chimo]

2 3 or 4 lt ice cream containers are more better IMHO

looks good, no more bottom leaks.................

[Noelm]

Definitely need a drop sheet on the floor, cheap slip on shoes that get taken off when you move away from the drop sheet, ice cream containers for mixing, let the left over go hard over night, then twist to pop it out for today's use, buy cheap disposable brushes and tools, waste of time trying to clean them, acetone dissolves your finger nails with constant use, sanded fibreglass is itchy shit, resin drips all the time and that's just what I could think of right now....

[Dignity]

I hate fibreglassing. If sanding fibreglass rub talcum powder into every pore on your body, it will reduce the itchyness. For really sharp corners I have ironed creases into the chopped strand, turn off any steam though, and it seems to keep its shape just long enough to finish the job. I hate fibreglassing. And I agree with the icecream container being best, although I do use an 11mm microfiber roller, standard 20mm wide, cut in half, a bit messier at times, you will need to hold your bucket under the narrow work your doing but so much quicker than a brush and if you hAve pice lifting or nother sticking your not pushing mat around. I know of some professionals that do it this way and I found it easier.

[gazza2006au]

I sometimes reuse the same pot if i am only mixing 150mls and i use it quickly but yeah the one's i buy are only like 25c 27c so i use them once than stack them up for the bin once cured i buy mine from a car auto spray paint place i buy in bulk so they are often cheaper i go thru them like crazy

sanding cloth is a piece of cake sanding chopped mat is a itchy nightmare that stuff is crazy and itchy like all hell i have read of people smearing vasoline on there skin before sanding so the chopped mat sticks to the vaso than just washes off at the end of the day

[scottar]

Bit more done today. Cut away the raw edge of the glass work and sanded the bottom half of the coaming adaptor. Quick fair using a polyester/micro ballons mix, another sand and then glass the top. Hopefully tomorrow will see sanding , fairing and flowcoat. Was going to two pac but I will try flowcoat first and see what transpires.

Really don't have too much of an issue with the sanding Gazza but I do hook the orbital up to the shop vac which takes care of most of it. Any fine detail work I usually use the multi tool which doesn't tend to throw dust too badly. Even working in the anchor well doing the bow block, by having the vacuum running beside where I was working, dust was not an issue using the multitool. After 20 odd years of working in various boat factories, you sort of learn to live with it too I suppose.

[gazza2006au]

How does the shop vac work? I have a back pack vacuum that has a wool/cotton bag that clogs up quiet easily wish i could find a vacuum that would continue to run untill the whole bin is filled

[scottar]

How does the shop vac work? I have a back pack vacuum that has a wool/cotton bag that clogs up quiet easily wish i could find a vacuum that would continue to run untill the whole bin is filled

Seems to go ok Gazza. It's just a bunning's Ozito special. Main reason I bought it was the automatic start / shut off when you run an accessory through it - great for the multi tool. I run a pneumatic random orbital though - not electric. The vac uses paper bags - not the cheapest but worth it not having to deal with the dust

[brett62]

Glad you are giving the flowcoat ago. Will give you a better result, it is just a little more sanding and sanding and sanding which you seem to like. ;D

[scottar]

Glad you are giving the flowcoat ago. Will give you a better result, it is just a little more sanding and sanding and sanding which you seem to like. ;D

There is something vaguely therapeutic about it.......or I am losing my mind. Not sure which at this point

[brett62]

There is something vaguely therapeutic about it.......or I am losing my mind. Not sure which at this point

When I am sanding I can't hear the wife ;)

[scottar]

When I am sanding I can't here the wife ;)

I've managed to chase mine out of the house with the noise.... ;D. Sanded this morning, fairing applied - just waiting for it to harden. Might get to flowcoat this afternoon.

[brett62]

Scott to save yourself a great amount of sanding can you get some plastic about the thickness of the old overhead projector film and mold it over your flowcoat so you end up with a nice smooth surface ?

I can't tell you just how much sanding it will save you. If not just sand and sand and then some more.

[gazza2006au]

I'm a picture whore where are all the pic's Scottar? lol ;D

[Chimo]

Melinex is the stuff Brett62 is alluding too Scottar

(
Melinex A plastic polyester film which does not adhere to resin, and therefore, can be used for self-releasing formers, etc.)

[scottar]

No pics today Gazza - it's pissing down rain again so it's out under a plastic sheet in the carport waiting for the fairing to fully set so it can be sanded. I'm starting to think I can create rain simply by mentioning an activity that starts with the letter "F". Fishing or fibreglassing - doesn't seem to matter.

Cheers Brett and Chimo. Not sure how this gear would go - it's all variable compound curves around the edges and front. At this stage I'm thinking sander - just for something different. It's a different colour at least so it feel like a totally different job...…..right?;)

[gazza2006au]

Ohh tell me about it... i have seen that much rain i wish it would just go away my lawns are almost 2 foot tall just cant get the grass to dry out to bloody mow it its shocking rain i think every day for weeks now, hopefully some of the farmers are getting wet tho

[scottar]

118043Sliders measured up today and threw a coat of flowcoat (as well as a healty spattering of bugs - WTF is their fascination with white wet surface coatings>:() on the coaming adapter. More sanding tomorrow as the flowcoat was less than friendly about going on smooth - which I knew it would - but we all live in denial right...…...or is that just me:freak:

[brett62]

118043Sliders measured up today and threw a coat of flowcoat (as well as a healty spattering of bugs - WTF is their fascination with white wet surface coatings>:() on the coaming adapter. More sanding tomorrow as the flowcoat was less than friendly about going on smooth - which I knew it would - but we all live in denial right...…...or is that just me:freak:

Sanding,sanding and sanding and then polish, polish and polish.and then realise you need another coat and the cycle starts all over.

I do it with a couple of rums as it all make sense then,

,

[scottar]

Yeah..... I suspect I haven't seen the last of it.

[scottar]

Sanding,sanding and sanding and then polish, polish and polish.and then realise you need another coat and the cycle starts all over.

I do it with a couple of rums as it all make sense then,

,

Ah the f*%k up coat...….I mean flow coat - nope right the first time. Brushed it on yesterday, sanded it off today - it does do a nice job as a fairing compound - just a tad expensive. I have now rolled on two coats of gelcoat with a coat of flowcoat to come later. While not as smooth as the brushed surface it's a lot more consistent so hopefully I won't sand through it...………...as much. That's the way it works in my poor little demented brain at least. Ask me again tomorrow

[brett62]

Scott what has worked for me is a reasonable heavy coat of gelcoat and let harden then I wet sand down with 240 to bring the surface even and if it has covered well I then lay a coat of flow coat. If not another gelcoat goes on. I do the last coat using the plastic sheet over the top wherever I can because it saves sanding. You would be surprised how easy it will go around the curves.

Are you colour matching ?

[scottar]

Scott what has worked for me is a reasonable heavy coat of gelcoat and let harden then I wet sand down with 240 to bring the surface even and if it has covered well I then lay a coat of flow coat. If not another gelcoat goes on. I do the last coat using the plastic sheet over the top wherever I can because it saves sanding. You would be surprised how easy it will go around the curves.

Are you colour matching ?

As best as white straight out of the tin does Brett. It sanded back flat pretty easy this morning - if anything too easy...……..or I went too hard. I have intention of being a lot more gentle tomorrow. I've already hit it with the flow coat so we will see what happens tomorrow.

[gazza2006au]

118043Sliders measured up today and threw a coat of flowcoat (as well as a healty spattering of bugs - WTF is their fascination with white wet surface coatings>:() on the coaming adapter. More sanding tomorrow as the flowcoat was less than friendly about going on smooth - which I knew it would - but we all live in denial right...…...or is that just me:freak:

Bugs love anything bright mate because i think it resembles the bright colours of flowers in nature so they are attracted to it like a magnet, with my water based paint the bugs loved the undercoat but went no where near the two top coat layers

[scottar]

Are you colour matching ?

You knew something didn't you Brett. I'll bet you were sitting there chuckling away to yourself when I typed my initial reply to this question...………;). At any rate, I did a much better job this morning of sanding - only went through in about a dozen spots this time - most likely courtesy of using the wrong roller sleeves and still ending up with a finish that required a fair bit of work. At any rate, once it was done it was still predominantly a white colour so I put it on the dash...…..and now I'm colour matching - or more specifically, I'm handing it over to someone else to colour match it. I typically only bang my head into a wall so many times before admitting I am not the best man for the job - well mostly anyway :P

[brett62]

You knew something didn't you Brett. I'll bet you were sitting there chuckling away to yourself when I typed my initial reply to this question...………;). At any rate, I did a much better job this morning of sanding - only went through in about a dozen spots this time - most likely courtesy of using the wrong roller sleeves and still ending up with a finish that required a fair bit of work. At any rate, once it was done it was still predominantly a white colour so I put it on the dash...…..and now I'm colour matching - or more specifically, I'm handing it over to someone else to colour match it. I typically only bang my head into a wall so many times before admitting I am not the best man for the job - well mostly anyway :P

Yes its very white out of the can. Go down to Whitworths and get some pigments. I picked up a bottle of black,yellow and cream. It is not that hard to tint and you will get very close to what you have and you don't need much of it to change colour so be careful. Very important you pick a spot close to where you are adding the new gelcoat. Make sure you give the area a good buff so your back to the original colour with no oxidation.

The next important step is to make sure that you are out in the daylight to start the tinting. Try and work out how much flowcoat/gelcoat you will be using to complete the job and just take your time and add the smallest amount of tint as it will change very quickly. If you want, just start off with a small amount of flowcoat/gelcoat so you get the idea. Of course you don't add any catalyst and just put small dobs on the area you just cleaned until you can't tell the difference. When you think you have it right the next very important step is to get the wife to check to see if she can see a difference. The female eyes are so much better for colours then ours.

Stick at it Scott as IMO the gelcoat is much better then 2 pack paint just a lot of sanding. Also makes repairs much easier, just a lot of sanding.

If you want some tint you are welcome to use what I have but a bit of a drive for you. I think Whitworths are just around the corner from you and it's about $12 a jar. Without seeing your boat you may just want the Cream. Once you have it you will use it for repairs down the road and looks much better when you blend them in. You often see glass boats with patches of different colors and looks like shit. Just make sure you colour match to the area you are working as you will find on different parts of the boat it would be more or less faded. Anyway continue.

[Dignity]

Scott, whichever place you bought your gelcoat from, providing it's not a plain retailer like Whitworths, will give you half a teaspoon of tint free of charge, this will tint a couple of litres of gelcoat, place I get mine from up the coast also repairs surf boats and were happy to just give it to me. You need so little tint as Brett says that you can easily put too much in, just a bit on the end of a paddle pop stick will be more than enough. Some of your local boat repair places would be happy to give you some.
Interestingly tinted gelcoat/flowcoat doesn't change depth of colour once set unlike paints. If using paints the best way to check the finished colour is to put a dab on a piece of clear glass and when viewed from the other side will give you the finished colour. Old painters trick.

[TREVELLY]

Seeing this thread Scott makes me glad mine came with a hard top.
But good on you - well worth it

[scottar]

Still arguing with the gelcoat / flowcoat but the colour is better this time at least118082118083118084

[gazza2006au]

Scott will the HT conversion still fit in your garage mate? be cautious of whatu make the roof of the hard top from because that shed roof might get really hot in middle of summer on those 50c+ days and it may warp or catch fire

[scottar]

It's tight Gazza but I should be right. Lid will be vinylester and foam predominantly. Insulation in the shed might be a good idea too. We rarely get past 35 - 36 where we are - just humidity makes it uncomfortable

[Chimo]

Or you could just put an AC in the shed..........

the rocket launchers will hit first. Guess your going to sandwich the hard top between plates at the base of the rocket launcher and the topof the soon to be support SS upright.

C
C
118085

[fishtragic]

What stage are you up to Scott, I've been lurking on this post to steal ideas. I'm starting the process myself shortly. Wavebreaker, hardtop and clears. Too much grief doing glass windows with the amount of wraparound on the Vermont. Have you or any other member seen or done similar on a Vermont?

[honda900]

Ah the f*%k up coat...….I mean flow coat - nope right the first time. Brushed it on yesterday, sanded it off today - it does do a nice job as a fairing compound - just a tad expensive. I have now rolled on two coats of gelcoat with a coat of flowcoat to come later. While not as smooth as the brushed surface it's a lot more consistent so hopefully I won't sand through it...………...as much. That's the way it works in my poor little demented brain at least. Ask me again tomorrow


use a spray gun... not too hard to do, much better finish..

Regards
HOnda.

[scottar]

Or you could just put an AC in the shed..........

the rocket launchers will hit first. Guess your going to sandwich the hard top between plates at the base of the rocket launcher and the topof the soon to be support SS upright.

C
C
118085

Sorry Chimo, missed this one mate. Yes, The top is being cut off the original rocket launcher and plated to keep costs down. New supports from gunwale to roof in 32mm with a bit of bracing thrown in. Glass sandwiched in between. Should get away with overall height increase of about 25mm.

[scottar]

What stage are you up to Scott, I've been lurking on this post to steal ideas. I'm starting the process myself shortly. Wavebreaker, hardtop and clears. Too much grief doing glass windows with the amount of wraparound on the Vermont. Have you or any other member seen or done similar on a Vermont?

Picked up the sliders today and the stainless guy has the existing targa for templating and modification as we speak. Initially I was going down the same track but due to personal design constraints and the fact I am over leaky zips and corroded press studs, I ended up going full screen. I have never seen a Vermont done - no reason it cant be. Main thing is to ensure the stainless work will handle the movement and keep the weight of the glass to a minimum. I didn't want any lateral bracing in my field of vision - just a personal thing - and every stainless bloke I spoke to said without it, it will eventually crack.


use a spray gun... not too hard to do, much better finish..

Regards
HOnda.

Cheers Honda. I have "come to terms" with the finish - basically over it for the minute. I think I was getting air bubbles in the gelcoat and as I sanded back to fix one, it would expose another. There are a couple of bigger air bubble holes I will spot repair later but for the minute at least I am done. If you don't look too close you can't see them. If the boat was new or in absolutely immaculate condition it may be different - but it's not.


On a different note, I have heard on the grapevine that if I had waited till next year, I could have traded it on a factory one::). If it looks any good they should sell like hot cakes.

[gazza2006au]

Probably experiencing off gassing Scottar

[tenzing]

Mate why would you ever trade yours on a new one?????
Air bubbles are a fact of life in my business - Don't Ask
Sucks, but thats life!
Your boat will always be better than a new one , and you will have what you wanted. Designed and made by you.
Hang in there!
Cheers
Brendan

[scottar]

Mate why would you ever trade yours on a new one?????
Air bubbles are a fact of life in my business - Don't Ask
Sucks, but thats life!
Your boat will always be better than a new one , and you will have what you wanted. Designed and made by you.
Hang in there!
Cheers
Brendan

No fear of it actually happening Brendan. Justin from Cruisecraft tried to convince the financial controller I should have just traded it this morning. Poor bloke never saw it coming 😂

[Dignity]

Scott, lots of things cause gassing. Too much MEKP, humidity or laying it on too thick or depressions to deep. Are you using a waxed product, unwaxed is better as you can put more on later wit out sanding back. To set it off all you need to do is deprive it of air, for example with gladwrap, then you can sand and polish it easily otherwise it's a real PIA if it's got wax in it to put more on.

[scottar]

Scott, lots of things cause gassing. Too much MEKP, humidity or laying it on too thick or depressions to deep. Are you using a waxed product, unwaxed is better as you can put more on later wit out sanding back. To set it off all you need to do is deprive it of air, for example with gladwrap, then you can sand and polish it easily otherwise it's a real PIA if it's got wax in it to put more on.

First time flow coat, second time two layers of gelcoat then flowcoat, third time 4 layers of gelcoat and then add wax for the 5th. Sanded well with 80 grit between attempts. Whether it was gassing or simply that the roller was putting bubbles in it I couldn't say. Mekp was kept at a maximum of 2% - could have been humidity and temp - who knows.

[scottar]

118369118368118367

Bit of progress this week. Windows sorted - dry fit on the coaming adapter today - only one set of holes to fill :oops:. Also got the heavier targa base and modified original rod rack back - top jobs on all accounts by the suppliers. Sorry bout the crook neck......

[Chimo]

The rod rack base set up looks familiar.
Are you doing top hand rail above the hardtop? I find mine really handy. post 72 pic.

C
C.

[Dignity]

And most certainly one inside the windscreen with bracing to the screen, strengthens the whole lot.

[Lovey80]

Do you mind telling us how much the glass cost?

[scottar]

The rod rack base set up looks familiar.
Are you doing top hand rail above the hardtop? I find mine really handy. post 72 pic.

C
C.

Definitely on the list. Was another reason I started the project - near went in the drink climbing around the front. Haven't thought about design as yet - independent or tied back to the targa. Rod rack is the old factory one. The guy that did the work is the son of the guy that did Seafarer's work originally. He did his time working for his dad doing a heap of them. He was telling me the biggest month they ever had they did over 50 boats for Lindsay.


And most certainly one inside the windscreen with bracing to the screen, strengthens the whole lot.

For sure - at this stage looking at a dual post setup to stop racking from the coaming adaptor following the rake of the screen to the top. Thinking dual 32mm posts with maybe some small bracing in the corners between the mounting plates and the pipework. Bottom one will bolt through the coaming adaptor for load dispersion right through the dash.


Do you mind telling us how much the glass cost?

Just shy of 5k all up. The sliders were exy due to their dimensions and shape - very narrow and thus required anti fall and anti lift fittings to stop the pane tipping.

[Chimo]

Definitely on the list. Was another reason I started the project - near went in the drink climbing around the front. Haven't thought about design as yet - independent or tied back to the targa. Rod rack is the old factory one. The guy that did the work is the son of the guy that did Seafarer's work originally. He did his time working for his dad doing a heap of them. He was telling me the biggest month they ever had they did over 50 boats for Lindsay.

His Dad did mine and sadly he passed away some time later.
Good that his son is carrying on the business, still at the same place ?

Chimo

[scottar]

He works from home now Chimo.

[Dignity]

Scott, have you worked out how much extra weight your putting in the boat. You might have to go on a diet to make up for it.

[Chimo]

Seafarers like a little extra weight in the cab area, just not too keen having big AusFishers hanging around near the anchor especially at very low speed and particularly in choppy sloppy waves or wakes.
You don't really need to ask me how I know, do you?

[chocolatemoose]

Edit - Forgot to type anything

So here is Dions boat down here in melbourne after having a custom hardtop made for his seafarer in S.A

https://scontent.fmel7-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/48382160_10213250993977878_2623194968734302208_o.j pg?_nc_cat=101&_nc_ht=scontent.fmel7-1.fna&oh=31c350d4ca292ad1774a666906d17c29&oe=5C8E9420https://scontent.fmel7-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/48364108_10213250995257910_2784034737985945600_o.j pg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_ht=scontent.fmel7-1.fna&oh=cc9946b6c5fdb0e18ce49d21df26c397&oe=5C92F2CA

[Chimo]

Looks like its getting married!

[scottar]

He did a bit more than a wheelhouse 😂😂. 300 ponies. She's gunna be a rocket. Big effort but he has got a top job.

[scottar]

Scott, have you worked out how much extra weight your putting in the boat. You might have to go on a diet to make up for it.

At a rough estimate by the time its finished 70 - 80 kg. It will be interesting to see what effect it has on stability. Might have to store all the sinkers in the bilge 😂😂

[scottar]

118422

Well, 3 tubes if Fixtech 15, about a dozen large self tappers and a considerable amount of swearing and rapid movement later, we are very much past the point of no return. If this ever has to come off there will be a big effort involved. In hindsight, starting it yesterday in the shed in weather that was hot enough to send the goop off, more or less as it exited the gun was probably dumb to say the least - made for an exciting session on the driver drill though and a tooling off session that made a one armed brickie in Baghdad look positively lethargic. In the end I tooled it right back and then today in a much more relaxed fashion applied a finishing bead.

[Chimo]

Scott

You may have done the wrong thing securing it so well.

Be tricky / hard for the Haines crew to get it off to copy it for their Seafarers............

Looking good though.

You have a good compressor in the shed to be able to pump the tyres up as you pull the the boat out of the shed I guess?
Not much clearance it seems above the stainless and the hard top and rocket launchers are still to go on too.

[scottar]

Scott

You may have done the wrong thing securing it so well.

Be tricky / hard for the Haines crew to get it off to copy it for their Seafarers............

Looking good though.

You have a good compressor in the shed to be able to pump the tyres up as you pull the the boat out of the shed I guess?
Not much clearance it seems above the stainless and the hard top and rocket launchers are still to go on too.


:LMAO:. I'm a thinker Chimo, I've still got the template......Just in case Johnny and crew come knocking or maybe even Seppo ;). It will be interesting next year to see what the Haines crew com up with - they may have been following closer than anticipated but I doubt it. The shed is deceptive (I hope). I had clearance of about 60mm or so to the rocket launcher prior to starting to play. If my design concept works out, I will just get in an out - half inch or so - provided I get her in the middle. Worse case I can drop it onto 13's if the brakes will fit but it's not the preferred option. The neighbours don't appreciate the compressor starting at 3am....bloody sooks.

[Chimo]

Let me know if you need some 13" tyres. I have a set of new Bridgestone 185 /70 R 13 s (4) I could perhaps do a deal on.

[stue2]

Looks mint tho.


Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Chimo]

How are you coping with the 40 + temps Stue?

[stue2]

At the beach mate.
Cool and windy.
Heading home to harvest soon

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[Chimo]

Good to hear you are getting a harvest!
Happy New Year to you and the family.

[stue2]

Been very lucky here with the rain mate.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[scottar]

So I haven't posted in a few days - chances are I f I had it may not of made for family friendly reading at a couple of points but as of right here, right now, this is where I am at

118452118453

Everything is glued, screwed and bolted in place. Now for the lid

[Dirtyfuzz]

Looks good mate, who you have lined up to do the top, or are you going to make one?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[blacklab]

Very impressed Scott, looking great.

Col

[scottar]

Looks good mate, who you have lined up to do the top, or are you going to make one?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers Dirtyfuzz. Arnolds Fibreglass has a skin from a mould that he has so plan "A" is to see how that sits then make the necessary verticals to adapt it and get it painted (no gelcoat this time). Plan "B" is a full custom glass over strip foam gig that to be perfectly honest isn't something I am looking forward too if plan A doesn't come off.


Very impressed Scott, looking great.

Col

Thanks Col. Few little finish related issues that the perfectionist with OCD in me isn't entirely happy with but nothing major. The metallic colour matched silicone is a difficult product to get exactly right.

[Chimo]

Scott

This may be a 3rd option or maybe an extension of the 2nd option you have
Have you seen what these guys are doing from the build on THT? Quepos.


https://www.thehulltruth.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1093298&d=1546268006
(https://www.thehulltruth.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1093298&d=1546268006)

Specifically this https://www.thehulltruth.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1093299&d=1546268006

Chimo

[scottar]

Scott

This may be a 3rd option or maybe an extension of the 2nd option you have
Have you seen what these guys are doing from the build on THT? Quepos.


https://www.thehulltruth.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1093298&d=1546268006
(https://www.thehulltruth.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1093298&d=1546268006)

Specifically this https://www.thehulltruth.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1093299&d=1546268006

Chimo

Looks like glass over foam. Main reason for strip planking is to get the wanted compound curves in the front corners. The only other way would be to thermo form the foam sheet but I don't have the gear to do that. Do you have a link to the actual thread - I couldn't find it. Cheers.

[Chimo]

Scott

I think he formed it up around pre bent tube or SS
If you pre drilled the pipe it would be useful to attach the top after it was built.

The link to the thread https://www.thehulltruth.com/showthread.php?t=839890&goto=newpost

The guy runs a fishing charter business and build and renovates his fleet. Interesting stuff.

Chimo

If you have some time check out the boat building as well as the fishing
http://www.queposfishadventure.com/MF2build6.html

[ozscott]

Nice job mate. It will be very sweet being able to hang stuff of the roof over and under and walk on it.

Cheers

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

[scottar]

Nice job mate. It will be very sweet being able to hang stuff of the roof over and under and walk on it.

Cheers

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Probably no walking but it will get used to store empty jerry cans when I finally get around to dragging it to 1770 or DI. I am certainly looking forward to having some handrails on the roof so I can clamber up the gunwale without falling in the drink.

[Dignity]

Looks like glass over foam. Main reason for strip planking is to get the wanted compound curves in the front corners. The only other way would be to thermo form the foam sheet but I don't have the gear to do that. Do you have a link to the actual thread - I couldn't find it. Cheers.
Scott the way your going your boat will look morph into the one Chimo posted

[scottar]

Scott the way your going your boat will look morph into the one Chimo posted

😂😂 I hope not Sam. The boys certainly are not afraid to pull a boat apart.😨

[scottar]

118468118469118470First look at the lid today. Had something different in mind initially but having sat this on the roof for about two hours, looking at it, going away, coming back, climbing all over it, going away, coming back - you get the drift, I have decided less is more …...so this is roughly what she will look like. I've got to fit a foam layer and underside skin and the vertical mating surfaces yet but it gives a pretty good idea.

[Chimo]

Scott

Could get very hot under the screen
I did this to reduce the sun impact.

118479

[scottar]

Attachment doesn't work Chimo.

[MyWay]

scottar , that looks awesome :2thumbsup:

[Chimo]

Sorry Scott, I took a shortcut that didn't work

Hope this is better, ie more overhang less screen open to the sun and less heat on electronics. Still gets very hot but.

118481

[scottar]

I hear you Chimo. It's actually deceptive but the top of the screen is further forward than the original clears were - the screen is more vertical. I did have a little bit of wiggle room as there is a bit of overhang at the back so it's certainly something I will look at but probably cant go too far or it will look weird given it's full height glass. Might have to enclose it and get aircon ;D.

[Chimo]

Now your talking.
Issues to be addressed; where to mount the genset?
I guess that will be sorted when you decide how much extra hull to add when you cut the existing one just forward of the existing transom.
The joys of modifying boats eh?

Sam was probably closer to the truth than he thought!

[Dignity]

Now your talking.
Issues to be addressed; where to mount the genset?
I guess that will be sorted when you decide how much extra hull to add when you cut the existing one just forward of the existing transom.
The joys of modifying boats eh?

Sam was probably closer to the truth than he thought!
Been there, still doing g that.

[Chimo]

https://handytechgadgets.com/aircooler/air-conditioner-in-a-tiny-box.html?c1=Australia&cep=420yCCC1gDk-dKowCqJd2GQ2muW8usWXMydh0k-B5iYq3lTGwT64ua05RqU-Jve2H1aggZMPyLAppPxKLvK2QkUqhjQaaCLDjHGEpIXZrLoQtt j4skRzOyzg7FPjST6hE2BTizhtfDR_hCkvLAqpFuriHgb3z6VM tQlCdkq0TT3j69yZxN-xEG1JmeNRrdWCH6YRuq9MyGZ18a3m18qG8EgEat5z0Q7seIWjg kN2RStAFDpE69X4ouSZRuv0nlXvEwtqRdEFButKKDTgpYG1dnO GVNT3D0RwFVkpNCMBnCj4p8S_eflNVgTUpNaNKs0Ita23q9dps sCRatc3WpFts6vlgFHcf0LPV9_Hj-hika5rGjuWCEczJVi1OVF6m1BUkwWl8b6HsGAUepwawqEgF7Fc RCyE1FOp7ZXZu3j1PtH2pBNd6oM48NU5UF950X3MbMqOx8EOAm uF2ZVQ8J-TPP_lCCm7__xACgIkyxlk1-lzMMcK9g_t16qwwQkieZoK_fILQgLxsINQd2-fsckcuGmQSu-SeT-SXMAnxIWLVnSz4eo1ozZWdviZGV7VRuT0SrZHruXBAsLxFPW91 GedT8l55k2toPkpkpJQzkeCwZE&campid=009ab0a62d81e75c482c940c51bf9aeb8d&creaid=006bd84c6ac001ebc1e8b7d24faba7ccc6&atitle=Magic%20Air%20Conditioner%20Takes%20$%7Bcou ntry%7D$%20By%20Storm.%20The%20Idea%20Is%20Genius&sectionid=00574be39ed87558814d0e91af779c19fe&pubidx=0003903862849cd31d116ddc63290cf45b&sectionname=On%20TV%20Tonight&outclickid=v1-b9bc7b5515f54c184a37d50ba482d5ab-0087045a2e684f74b5cb36697d1b5296eb-ge4tqojrme4dkllbgmzdsljugnstcljzg4ydmljrgm2dcy3fmy 4dczrumi

[scottar]

https://handytechgadgets.com/aircooler/air-conditioner-in-a-tiny-box.html?
:LMAO:

I'll take two. Already got a computer on board so we are sorted for power.

[gazza2006au]

Scott seen your pics un rotated on FB, that hard top would have added atlease 10k to 15k to your boats value that looks well suited to the boat, mint ride now mate

[scottar]

Scott seen your pics un rotated on FB, that hard top would have added atlease 10k to 15k to your boats value that looks well suited to the boat, mint ride now mate

LOL. I hope so Gazza - it's cost close to ten so far. Sitting down talking to Arnold the fibreglasser about projects like this and adding up the hours etc - if you were to simply walk into a boat builder and say "do this", there is every chance you won't get change from 20K once the labour gets added.

[Chimo]

They do look good when finished though, and lots cooler under frp compared to sunbrella even without air con.
Just don't mention what they cost.............

[scottar]

They do look good when finished though, and lots cooler under frp compared to sunbrella even without air con.
Just don't mention what they cost.............

Especially when the chief accountant from the financial control department is within earshot ::)

[gazza2006au]

10K Wow i never thought that kind of money would be in something so simple, they look easy to build other than the rounded glass, if i were to try to do a hard top for my big boat i think it would be either aluminum and perspex or ply/glass and perspex just to keep it light and cheap

I was going to say in that earlier post it would have added 15k+ but when u look at it what's your boat worth $35,000? $15,000 hard top $50,000 a hard top boat probably wouldn't be much more brand new

[scottar]

Most 6 metre hard top boats are north of 100k optioned up ready to go these days Gazza. It was something I looked at but to re-option a new boat with what is in this one would have cost a lot more - well more than the financial control department would allow.

[chocolatemoose]

looks sensational scott!

[blacklab]

Most 6 metre hard top boats are north of 100k optioned up ready to go these days Gazza. It was something I looked at but to re-option a new boat with what is in this one would have cost a lot more - well more than the financial control department would allow.

Looks absolutely sensational Scott, you'd be right happy with the end result !

It's the old scenario here, as far as what you've put into it to improve it and make it more comfortable, The question always is,
How much do I have to spend for a new one, and end up with the same result.
Exactly why alot of people re-build. When I found out mine had a stuffed transom, floor, stringers and I really needed a 4 stroke,
I did 180 hours the last year it was on the water, with a 4 cylinder 2 stroke, I needed shares in a servo.
SO, a new boat, cabable of doing what I wanted to do, would set me back 80K, hence, all up for me on this rebuild, including motor should come in at
around 35-40k. Of course, they all have to be done with the view that it will be a keeper, otherwise you may be hard pressed to re coup.

But, as mentioned Scott, beautiful job, it will be a great improvement in comfort for you I'm sure........

Col

[scottar]

Looks absolutely sensational Scott, you'd be right happy with the end result !

It's the old scenario here, as far as what you've put into it to improve it and make it more comfortable, The question always is,
How much do I have to spend for a new one, and end up with the same result.
Exactly why alot of people re-build. When I found out mine had a stuffed transom, floor, stringers and I really needed a 4 stroke,
I did 180 hours the last year it was on the water, with a 4 cylinder 2 stroke, I needed shares in a servo.
SO, a new boat, cabable of doing what I wanted to do, would set me back 80K, hence, all up for me on this rebuild, including motor should come in at
around 35-40k. Of course, they all have to be done with the view that it will be a keeper, otherwise you may be hard pressed to re coup.

But, as mentioned Scott, beautiful job, it will be a great improvement in comfort for you I'm sure........

Col

Absolutely Col. Sometimes it simply comes down to "I have this much money available" - which was pretty much the case. I had a rough idea but as always with these things, stuff pops up once you get going. Overall, I'm not too far outside my anticipated expenditure. There is also the personal satisfaction from having done it yourself. Short of a lotto win or other significant windfall, this is pretty much a "forever" rig so a bit of coin every so often is par for the course - got to spend it somewhere right ;D.

[scottar]

118588118589

In keeping with the sideways theme...…...roof mating roughed in. Glue it to the roof one night this week with any luck and glass nest weekend.

[Chimo]

Is there to be stainless pipework forward of the glass?
Maybe its happening at the same time the grabrails on top are to be fitted?

[brett62]

118588118589

In keeping with the sideways theme...…...roof mating roughed in. Glue it to the roof one night this week with any luck and glass nest weekend.

I for one is getting use to the sideways photos and just turn the laptop sideways.

Certainly coming along well and I am sure you will miss the salt spray in your face and going all over the electronics. Was never a big fan of hardtops until I got older.

Great on the early morning starts in winter and I don't miss getting to the fishing spot looking like a drowned rat. Have a sunroof in the hardtop and its great for letting cool air in and the helm is raised so you can stick your head out through the top for yelling abuse to the poor bastard pulling the anchor. Also found it good when traveling at night in a crowded seaway.

Something to think about Scott you will feel like a tank commander. ;D

[scottar]

Is there to be stainless pipework forward of the glass?
Maybe its happening at the same time the grabrails on top are to be fitted?

Preferably not. There will a dual brace up the inside - at this stage 32mm 3mm wall with a 50mm x 5 or so (maybe 8mm) plate top and bottom about 40cm apart - welded into a rectangular arrangement - not individual posts. You cant see it in the pic but there is a 6mm alloy plate incorporated in the coaming under the foam to tap into and I have bolt holes pre drilled in the lower coaming that go right through the original dash as well. I am also considering coming sideways off the internal uprights close to the top - sort of an overhead grab rail and then tying that in through the roof to the front end of the two side rails on top - the other end getting welded to the rocket launcher with a 3rd leg in the middle. Just ideas at this stage. I'll know more once I have talked to Josh again.

[scottar]

I for one is getting use to the sideways photos and just turn the laptop sideways.

Certainly coming along well and I am sure you will miss the salt spray in your face and going all over the electronics. Was never a big fan of hardtops until I got older.

Great on the early morning starts in winter and I don't miss getting to the fishing spot looking like a drowned rat. Have a sunroof in the hardtop and its great for letting cool air in and the helm is raised so you can stick your head out through the top for yelling abuse to the poor bastard pulling the anchor. Also found it good when traveling at night in a crowded seaway.

Something to think about Scott you will feel like a tank commander. ;D

After having unlimited use of the Trymax Senator 6.8, It was only a matter of time before I ended up with a hardtop. The last couple of trips I had prior to starting this exercise either involved rain or a lot of spray or both...…….and leaking zips SUUUUUUUUUUCK. I am so looking forward to the first big spray of salt across the screen or first big down pour offshore.

[scottar]

119458119459119460

Some new shiny bits courtesy of Josh at Jpschips Stainless. Absolutely love having the roof rails to scarper up the bow. Decided against the dual post front support and just upgraded the post to sched 40 polished stainless with bracing top and bottom. All bolted up it's rock solid - swing off it and the only movement is in the trailer suspension. Now to dismantle it all for paint.

[gazza2006au]

Shit! Wow thats a transformation she looks hot with the hard top def suits it

[Chimo]

Great job, got to be pleased with it.
Snr did a great job on mine before he passed and good to see Jnr is carrying on in the same tradition.

[scottar]

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All siliconed up and starting to refit all the gear. Might even get it wet next weekend if I get the dash reassembled ;D.

[gazza2006au]

How did u attach the windscreen to the roof?

[scottar]

How did u attach the windscreen to the roof?

Self tappers through the frame. Inside the glass is a single layer of 9mm ply with aluminium plates glassed in above it for the screws to bite into and plenty of silicone.

[scottar]

Never really did wrap this up. Finished now - or at least finished for now. New rear awning, side curtains behind the glass for a bit more spray protection, new bowsprit and radar fitted. Very happy with it - specially when the loose nut behind the wheel might have been pushing a bit hard running downhill in some reasonable swell / chop and went through the back of one........and stayed bone dry ;D

123905

[Chimo]

Hey scottar

Looks great, well done.
Roof rails are a boon to forward travel!

Cheers
Chimo

PS Looks like they used the same template as on post 141.

[brett62]

Scott you will certainly have noticed heading out this time of year for those early fishes being able to hind from the cold somewhat. Certainly has turned out great.

How does the radar perform ?

[wahoofishingcrew]

Looks awesome, great job mate!

Sent from my VOG-L09 using Tapatalk

[scottar]

Scott you will certainly have noticed heading out this time of year for those early fishes being able to hind from the cold somewhat. Certainly has turned out great.

How does the radar perform ?

Not having to run with the clears down and the resulting change in temperature has been beauuuuutiful.

Very happy with the radar. It's the low radiation solid state Fantum 18 mated with a GPSMAP 952XS. It was never about long distance performance - just clarity at the sort of ranges that are useful for collision avoidance.

[Dignity]

Love your work Scott, enjoy the fruits of your labour trust me as you get older you will enjoy these moments with your family greatly.

[Lovey80]

That is a sensational outcome.