It Begins..... Seafarer Ventura Stringers and floor.

[gford001]

Some may have seen my other thread getting my head around the impending rebuild of my old Seafarer.
Well, its started and i thought i would catalogue it on here for everyone's amusement, I mean benefit.
Today was my first big day of demolition, I did do a couple hours on the weekend, but this was my first chance to sink my teeth right into it.
And as luck would have it, a lot of the gear i ordered rocked up today too.
Anyway photos attached.
117497
The front section flooring cut away.
117498
And again.
117499
Getting into the main cabin.
117500
One stringer out already, quicker then i thought.

As you can see I managed to get half the floor out, and a stringer.
I had heard about the old boats like this using Masonite in the floor, but i was still amazed to find a floor made entirely of about 4mm Masonite.
A credit to Seafarer though, after 35 or so years it was still dry as under the floor.
The stringer didn't seem to be rotten, but it was fairly brittle, coming out in several pieces. Down where it joins the transom was soggy as hell though.
The floor did have a couple of soft spots, i thought this would've been rot, but it was where the Masonite had failed and cracked.
Some of the fibreglassing on the stringer was pretty ordinary, lucky it was really dry, because i don't think it was very watertight.
I have changed my original plan, and i think that i will do the stringers one at a time, instead of removing the lot and replacing them all, i think this might minimize the chance of the boat warping with no support in it. I will at least get them glued in and glassed along the bottom, then finish the lot at the end.
Gonna go get some Marine ply, i think 18mm for stringers, 12mm for the floor and 6mm in the areas where there is no weight on it (bulkheads into the cabin etc...)

[brett62]

Go for it. Looks like a great project. Just spent the last 7 days cutting glueing and glassing around the stern of my boat. My is a little more of a refurbish/modify project and not a scratch on what you about to engage in. Have you any photos of before ? I have found one thing glassing and that is you haven't lived life until your glassed upside down. I cant now cross that off the bucket list. Look forward to the progress pictures. Have you given yourself a time limit?

[Chimo]

Watching with interest how a 1983 vintage Seafarer hull is reborn.

It seems Masonite was still in use in the Seafarer Mermaid Beach shed in the late 90s as mine had the same material.

Get the best ply you can afford as a minimum seems to be the way to go. I had a repair done 5 yrs ago and it seemed they used some fairly ordinary ply that developed some soft spots after 5 yrs
.
The repairer replaced the sus ply recently and to his credit he did not want $s for the job so I guess there was a story that ie "he didn't want to talk about it"


How much extra would thermolite instead of ply actually cost for a boat such as yours? Did you cost it out?

There is a good article in a month or so ago (June 2018) Aust Boating that Peter Webster puts out about a Haines Hunter 445F If you were doing the work it may not be too bad considering some of the labour saving aspects that the new stuff seems to offer..

Good luck with as you go..

Cheers
Chimo

[gford001]

I work 4 weeks on 4 off. Got about 3 left so hoping I get it mostly done by then......
I did cost out thermalite. It's about 420ish a sheet, I can get marine ply for $75 a sheet.....
The money I save using ply I plan on using to get the outside re gelcoated.....

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[gford001]

I'll have a look for before pics. Might have some somewhere.

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[gazza2006au]

good start gford i wish i had stringers to work with makes it easier to measure old ones for proper height, when the stringers fall to bits in chunks it means u have timber stringers however ply stringers are easier to get as that old timber thickness today needs to be planed down by a shop

[gford001]

Yeah theres a lot of splinterey old hardwood in it.

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[Chimo]

Might have been some left over spars that were used to make the Masonite.

Did you check out the 445F pics and story. ?

[gazza2006au]

That 445 was a good read Chimo from what i remember

[gford001]

That 445 was a good read Chimo from what i rememberYeah was a good read. Been reading everything I can...

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[gford001]

Bit more progress.
Had trouble organising myself today, but got a bit done.
I played around with my anchor well hatch which was falling apart. So I separated the rotting timber off the top. Cut some 6mm ply and stuck it in place with thickened resin. Was more a proof of concept/ experimenting with resin exercise. In hindsight it should have been thickened more, but next time.
Once it's set I will finish off with a couple of layers of glass on the underside. Then fairing and sanding etc....
I ground out all the extra glass and timber scraps from the stringer.
Got a bit over keen and went through the hull at one point, another learning point I guess. Patched that. I'll revisit from the outside when the time comes.
Cut a stringer, seems like a decent fit.
I am going to cut the closest side of the next stringer out while this ones still out so that it's easier to reach, then I'll glass this one in.....
Photos attached.117512117513117514117515

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[gford001]

Oh. The stringers going in in 2 pieces, not ideal I guess, but the timber isn't long enough....

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[Noelm]

Just glass it in, and put a piece either side of the join and glass them to the stringer, and cover the lot.

[gford001]

Yeah good idea. Wasnt sure how to join. Maybe a piece of 6mm either side?

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[BigE]

woohooo ....love a good rebuild thread , did one myself a fair while back have a search for a thread "itchy and scratchy" some good pic's and learning from my first go at a rebuild.

turned out well , i would recommend looking for some maple to make the stringers it was easy to work with and it came in a 6m length (6mx30cmx6cm) and made a very strong structure tied together with cross supports.

BigE

[gazza2006au]

The ideal way to join the stringers is by scarfing it on a 12-1 ratio but i was taught by mark just to sand down one vainer of ply on both sides and each side join the two pieces with glue than glass the sanded sections over on both sides but do not wrap the entire stringer with glass


BigE how did u machine your wood down from 6cm? i asked a shop to do mine 10 years ago i think i was charged a extra fee for re-sharpening the planer blades plus i had to drive from the West to East just to get the timber as it was the only shop that would plane it down

[scottar]

I have found one thing glassing and that is you haven't lived life until your glassed upside down.

Haven't had the joy myself Brett, but have watched a few pro's do it by wetting out the cloth and then putting it in place - only doing sections small enough to handle in the process. Wasn't too much swearing so it can't be too hard...…...right :LMAO:

[BigE]

The ideal way to join the stringers is by scarfing it on a 12-1 ratio but i was taught by mark just to sand down one vainer of ply on both sides and each side join the two pieces with glue than glass the sanded sections over on both sides but do not wrap the entire stringer with glass


BigE how did u machine your wood down from 6cm? i asked a shop to do mine 10 years ago i think i was charged a extra fee for re-sharpening the planer blades plus i had to drive from the West to East just to get the timber as it was the only shop that would plane it down


Got a saw mill to cut it in half ... presto 2 x 30mm stringers perfectly matched.

[brett62]

Haven't had the joy myself Brett, but have watched a few pro's do it by wetting out the cloth and then putting it in place - only doing sections small enough to handle in the process. Wasn't too much swearing so it can't be too hard...…...right :LMAO:

Sounds easy hey !!!!! try with your head stuck under the stern inside and the world is different from that angle. There was much swearing when my hair became part of the lay.::)

[gford001]

Quick question.
When I pulled the old stringer out it had a hole in it to drain any water into the next compartment.
It was really shitty, not glasses well and took a lot of strength out of the stringer.
I need to do something similar, but I'm not keen on cutting into the stringer too much.
I have 3 bungs, 1 in each other area, should I just drill through the transom and add another 2 bungs? Not too keen on this.....
Should I just seal it up, confident that water will never get in? Dunno about that one.......
Make a channel through? Probably best option...
Maybe an inspection port theough the floor into that area? Possibly, but not ideal if I get a lot of water in, and a potential area that could fail and let moisture in.

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[ranmar850]

Fark me, masonite as a flooring material in a boat? Sort of puts a bad smell against these boats who some steadfastly claim as some of the best things ever built? So the great Lindsay Fry was actually a cheapskate who took shortcuts? (Putting flame suit on now.) Mind you, not the only builders guilty of it--what was the little cat so beloved of many? Markham Whaler? There was a build thread on that Victorian forum which went under, on how he found masonite, lots of it, under fibreglass. "the good old days"::)

[Fed]

I wouldn't think 4 mm of masonite would add much to the structure could it have simply been used as a formwork to lay up the fibreglass on?

[tug_tellum]

Ii was probably more common than most people realise. In the early 70s Sportsman Craft used masonite in a few of their boats for flooring.
tug tellum

[Andy56]

Use some electrical conduit, orange one is rated for under ground. 25mm/32mm. Only need maybe 1", flush plus cloth overlay length on both sides and glass around it. Easy peezie drain hole. One length will not break the bank and readily available from any electrical wholesaler.
Or you can put 10" in and remove after glassing around. 10" because it gives you something to hold on to.

[Noelm]

Lots of boats had Masonite floors, some were simply nailed down with clouts, and a thin layer of glass laid over the top, add to that, crap pine or other timber for underfloor frames, my Sharkcat has rough hardwood timbers under the floor, Masonite nailed to it, I have seen a couple of Seafarer Vikings, with those killer fold up seats with a single leg, go right through the floor, old "classic" boats are not what they seem.

[gford001]

Ii was probably more common than most people realise. In the early 70s Sportsman Craft used masonite in a few of their boats for flooring.
tug tellumYeah it had a decent amount of glass over it. Like 4 or 5mm.
Bottom of masonite wasnt sealed the though, which I found surprising

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[gford001]

Use some electrical conduit, orange one is rated for under ground. 25mm/32mm. Only need maybe 1", flush plus cloth overlay length on both sides and glass around it. Easy peezie drain hole. One length will not break the bank and readily available from any electrical wholesaler.
Or you can put 10" in and remove after glassing around. 10" because it gives you something to hold on to.Awesome idea. I'm gonna do that. Cheers

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[Andy56]

Awesome idea. I'm gonna do that. Cheers

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Dont forget to glass around the brace before putting it over the conduit. I am sure you will work outr the details. I saw a similar idea on another rebuild video.
Your a better man than me for taking it on, lol. I just want to go fishing.

[scottar]

Sounds easy hey !!!!! try with your head stuck under the stern inside and the world is different from that angle. There was much swearing when my hair became part of the lay.::)

You need a "lack of haircut" like me. Of course that just means you're head will be stuck to the boat;D

[Noelm]

It doesn't matter how careful you are, the "home handyman" glasser will end up with stuff stuck to your hands, shoes, hair, tools, seat and anything else within 10 metres of the work place, then further when you try to clean everything off away from the job site, been there and done it, walking along the verandah tiles with resin on my shoe wasn't a big hit either, neither was dripping some acetone on the vinyl seat cover outside.

[gazza2006au]

Haha funny u say that Noel when i started i had glue in my hair all over my clothes that stuff was everywhere, glad it washed out of my hair tho after 2 days i was going to go bold again

[gford001]

Well, not a heap done in the last couple days, had some shit to do yesterday so didnt get into it.
Had kids sports etc all morning, so did a couple hours this arvo.
Was gonna put the stringer in, got some conduit, but found my 32mm holesaw was ####ed and didnt want to go back to bunnings for a new one.
I got the useless seatboxes and cut a hole in them. Yep, forgot them before pic. Just picture it as you see it, but no big rectangle hole......
Anyway, hatch fits.
Ground and sanded them back as they were pretty dinged up, then tried my hand glassing one. Turns out, I'm not much of a fibreglassser, but I guess I'll see how it turned out tomorrow.
I cut a couple seat bases to go into the bottom. Just 2x18mm laminated then going to plane down to size to give a good solid anchor point.
Pics attached.


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[gford001]

Now this bit I am happy with.
Got my stringer in this morning, well 4/5th of it anyway.
I'm really happy how it looks, managed to get fillets done too.
Was gonna put the top end in too, but figured I'd get this bit in then have a solid anchor point to join it to.
The finishcoat drum was s perfect fit to hold it in place with a screwdriver to level it out.
117541117542117543

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[gazza2006au]

Think your meant to fillet and glass while the fillet is still wet this is what i have been told and read heaps about it because the wet glass over the wet fillet gets a secondary bonding but i have seen guys fillet and let cure like u have

[gford001]

Oh. Ah well, its getting glassed tomorrow.
Got a bit more done.
Stringer is finished. Got the rest cut and in. Also got seat bases on.
Didn't think I'd get a heap done today, but pretty happy so far.117544117545

Tuesday I'm busy elsewhere so if I glass that stringer on Monday, it'll have 2 days to cure, then demolition recommenses.....

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[gazza2006au]

Forgot to add u need to stagger your stringer joints as not to create one huge weak spot where they all join across a center line from side of boat to the other side, looks like a good job so far your work is tidy, will u be installing any bulkheads?

i start glassing around 2pm and found it takes 2 days or my laminate to fully cure and go rock hard so your timing sounds good

are u using talc? or something else, Im watching with interest as i will be doing my stringers soon

[gford001]

Yeah was gonna stagger them. Not sure about bulkheads. Theres none in it now, I plan on a couple when I put the fuel tank under the floor, but otherwise I dont think so.
I havent been using talc. I have some, but have been using fumed silica so far. Mostly because I've been using it as glue, and couldn't be assed mixing a batch of talc as well. Fumed silica is stronger and lighter anyway, and pricewise in the grand scheme of things not really an issue.
It's pretty user friendly.
I have some Q cells, havent use them yet either, apparently good for forming, and easy to sand. I'll give them a try when I find a spot. All trial and error at this point

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[gazza2006au]

Bonding with Epoxy Fillets

A fillet (fil’it) is a cove-shaped application of thickened epoxy that bridges an inside corner joint. It is excellent for bonding parts because it increases the surface area of the bond and serves as a structural brace. All joints that will be covered with fiberglass cloth will require a fillet to support the cloth at the inside corner of the joint.

Joint strength is the ability of a joint to adequately transfer a load from one part to another, and depend on the combined effects of three factors:

Glue Strength—Careful metering and thorough mixing will ensure the epoxy mixture cures to full strength.Adhesion—For the best adhesion and load transfer, the epoxy joint’s bonding surfaces must be#properly prepared.Joint Area—The epoxy bonding area of the joint must be adequate for the load on the joint and materials being joined. Increased overlap, scarf joints, filets and reinforcing fibers can be used to increase joint bonding area.

The procedure for bonding with epoxy fillets is the same as normal bonding except that instead of removing the squeezed-out thickened epoxy after the components are clamped in position, you shape it into a fillet. For larger epoxy fillets, add thickened mixture to the joint as soon as the bonding operation is complete, before the epoxy bonding mixture is fully cured, or any time after the final cure and sanding of exposed epoxy in the fillet area.

The procedure for bonding with epoxy fillets is the same as normal bonding except that instead of removing the squeezed-out thickened epoxy after the components are clamped in position, you shape it into a fillet. For larger fillets, add thickened mixture to the joint as soon as the bonding operation is complete, before the bonding mixture is fully cured, or any time after the final cure and sanding of exposed epoxy in the fillet area.

Bond parts as described in#Bonding.Shape and smooth the squeezed-out thick epoxy into a fillet by drawing a rounded filleting tool (mixing stick) along the joint, dragging excess material ahead of the tool and leaving a smooth cove-shaped fillet bordered on each side by a clean margin. Some excess filleting material will remain outside of the margin. Use the excess material to re-fill any voids. Smooth the fillet until you are satisfied with its appearance. A mixing stick will leave a fillet with about a 3/8″ radius. For larger fillets, an#808 Plastic Squeegee, cut to shape or bent to the desired radius, works well. Apply additional thickened epoxy to fill voids or make larger fillets. Apply the mixture along the joint line with the rounded mixing stick, using enough epoxy mixture to create the desired size of fillet. For longer or multiple fillets, empty caulking gun cartridges or disposable cake decorating bags can be used. Cut the plastic tip to lay a bead of thickened epoxy large enough for the desired fillet size. Heavy duty, sealable food storage bags with one corner cut off may also be used.Clean up#the remaining excess material outside of the margin by using a sharpened mixing stick or a putty knife. Fiberglass cloth or tape may be applied over the fillet area before the fillet has cured (or after the fillet is cured and sanded).Sand smooth with 80-grit sandpaper after the epoxy #fillet has fully cured. Wipe the surface clean of any dust and apply several coats of resin/hardener over the entire fillet area before final finishing.

I just read the above on the West System Epoxy Resin website u can lay the fillets down and either glass whike wet or let it fully cure sand than glass, i was only taught the first way of installing the stringers but as u have done is the correct way also glad i read that as i was going to try glue,fillet and glass my stringers all within a few hours before the resin starts to cure but much relief now that the second way is much user friendly

[gford001]

So. Got the stringer glassed in. Pretty happy with it. Feels solid as a rock, even before the glass. Got at least 3 layers of 400gsm, 4 or 5 in some places.
That'll get 48hrs to cure.
In hindsight, I should've rounded off the corners on top and I could've completely finished it off with some top glass.
I was going to do it before putting this glass on, but the fillers were still a little tacky in places, didnt want crap sticking all over it.
I did go over the very end of the stringer as I did round that bit off in anticipation, figured I could complete it.
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[gford001]

Was going to mess around with flowcoat this arvo.
Thought I'd put a coat on one of my seat based to try it out.....
Quick question, how much filling does the flowcoat do? Meaning does it need to be super smooth as if I was going to paint it? Or can it have some texture like from raw fiberglass?

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[brett62]

Was going to mess around with flowcoat this arvo.
Thought I'd put a coat on one of my seat based to try it out.....
Quick question, how much filling does the flowcoat do? Meaning does it need to be super smooth as if I was going to paint it? Or can it have some texture like from raw fiberglass?

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What type of finish are you after?

[gford001]

Glossy. Smooth.
I decided to mess around with q cells and try making it smooth. Kind of worked. I'll see how it looks when cured.

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[Noelm]

Near impossible to get a good finish, either sprayed, brushed or rolled without lots of hard work sanding and polishing, unless of course you are using it first in a mould.

[gazza2006au]

From what i gained on the BM forum is when fairing u only want to fill the weave in the cloth u don't want to be sanding all that excess filler for no reason also the more resin u have to q-cells the more fun your going to have sanding as the resin is harder to sand than the q-cells

i have never used or sanded q-cells i have used the West System's fairing powder tho

also don't get your glue mixed up with your fairing powder ;D;D unless u use the talc

[brett62]

Glossy. Smooth.
I decided to mess around with q cells and try making it smooth. Kind of worked. I'll see how it looks when cured.

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Ok if you are wanting that type of finish you will be doing a large amount of sanding/polishing. Try and get the surface as perfect as you can will help. How big a surface are you covering ?. If I am doing smallish areas I use a plastic film over the top once I lay the gelcoat down and then smooth it off with the edge of a dowel or ruler. Let it cure and peel the plastic off and you have a nice flat surface and just requires a light wet/dry and polish. The plastic film I use is much the same as the old overhead projectors used in schools.

[Chimo]

Melinex is the name of a good film. I have laid glass up on it on Masonite and even on a concrete floor if you want to make some flat sheets of glass.

You used to be able to buy rolls of the stuff. We joined several sheets just by applying magic tape to hold the melinex in place.

MELINEX® S

Product Description

Melinex® S is a general purpose film which combines excellent handling characteristics with a slightly hazy appearance. It is available in specific thicknesses from 48 - 500 gauge, and is used for the full range of Melinex® applications.




http://www.mylar.com/FilmEnterprise/images/dtflogo.jpg

[gford001]

Ok if you are wanting that type of finish you will be doing a large amount of sanding/polishing. Try and get the surface as perfect as you can will help. How big a surface are you covering ?. If I am doing smallish areas I use a plastic film over the top once I lay the gelcoat down and then smooth it off with the edge of a dowel or ruler. Let it cure and peel the plastic off and you have a nice flat surface and just requires a light wet/dry and polish. The plastic film I use is much the same as the old overhead projectors used in schools.Not huge. Just one of the seat bases. I put a layer of glass on it as it was pretty dinged up.
The other wasnt so bad so I didn't do that one.
Thought I'd do one and see how it looks. Glad I didn't do both.

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[brett62]

Chimo thanks for the name and I wished I had got some bigger sheets when I did the gelcoat on the stern of my boat. It certainly cuts down sanding.

[Chimo]

No worries. I guess it would be possible to make up a flat section out of masonite sheet held on a frame that one could apply and press to wet gelcoat or glass until it goes off to get a better finish. Sort of like a back to front mold. It would sure cut down the hungry board action and dust too. A part roll of suitable thickness melinex that can be used over and over would do the job I think.

Chimo

[gford001]

Got a lot done today. Next stringer cut out. This one was pretty rotted. About 3/4 of it had about an inch of soaked timber along the bottom of the stringer. The rest was dry and brittle.
I managed to grind and clean it all up too. Didnt take a photo yet though.
Managed to make a couple holes in the hull too. Pissed about that. Right where the hull changed shape towards the stern. Took me by surprise.
Oh well, a couple more patches done. Good thing i plan on getting it re gelled after I'm done......
Hopefully i can get the new stringer cut and glued in place tomorrow.
Daily stupid question for the forum.
Generally, when stringers are done do you cut out the keel too? Is this a good idea?
Do they usually rot out? Hard to tell if its rooted.117572

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[brett62]

You will be best to work that out. Is it timber?

If the rest of the timber is compromised then a good chance it will be also since it would see more water then the stringers. Can you drill a couple holes as this will tell you quick. You can always fill them if it's still solid.

You keep this up and you will have the boat back in the water in no time.

[gford001]

You will be best to work that out. Is it timber?

If the rest of the timber is compromised then a good chance it will be also since it would see more water then the stringers. Can you drill a couple holes as this will tell you quick. You can always fill them if it's still solid.

You keep this up and you will have the boat back in the water in no time.Yeah I'll check it out.
I reckon it is timber, and likely just as bad as the rest.
I just pictured cutting it out, the boat imploding and everyone here saying "idiot! never cut the keel out".

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[gford001]

Half the next stringer glued in.
Had a (hopefully) good idea and used it as a template to cut the other side one too. Left a bit of room to plane it down if needed. Hopefully a time saver.
Went in pretty easy. Will wait for it to cure then work on the front half. Might cut 2 of them too, see if that works......
My new fuel tank arrived, excited to see that going in at some stage. Wasnt meant to get here for another couple weeks. Bloke said they weren't even gonna start to mold it for 2 1/2 weeks..
Good though, now I can see how it fits and make sure it's all good, not just relying on drawings.
117574117575

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First photo it looks laid over a bit. Had to go back out and make sure it was square lol.

[gford001]

Real happy with today's progress.
Was happy with half the stringer in. So I took a bunch of stuff to the dump. Got some bits and pieces, got home and checked it was all still in one piece.
Gave it a poke and it was pretty solid. So I figured I might as well rough the front half out with the time I had before I needed to get the kids from school.
I roughed it out, gave it a bit of a plane, tried it out.
Couple more times and it fitted perfectly. Couldn't believe how easy it went in.
I had 45 mins before I needed to leave so figured screw it, might get a day up on myself.
Stringers in.
I only braced one side of the joint as the fuel tank comes to around the joint, didnt want to get in the way of that.
I'm in the dreaming up phase of a plan to put a pretty solid bulkhead in there to brace the joint too, will figure it out after....
Anyway. Lot done today and I'm a happy camper.
Also have the other stringer cut out and ready to plane into shape, using this one as a template, hopefully doesn't bite me on the ass......117576

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[Noelm]

Going back together is kind of easier than cutting old rotted rubbish out, now is the time to think about drainage, underfloor storage, bilge pumps and mounting any "things" for the future.

[gford001]

Going back together is kind of easier than cutting old rotted rubbish out, now is the time to think about drainage, underfloor storage, bilge pumps and mounting any "things" for the future.
Yeah, and its more fun.
I plan on keeping it mostly the same as it was. I am going to make the keel about 20mm higher so that it supports the base of the fuel tank, and I have extended the fueltank compartment rearward about 120mm so that there is a bigger storage area in front of it. A pair of bilge pumps will mount in the well that will be created right at the back, as they were.
The spot under the transom where the tank used to go will be for stuff like oil, tool kits etc. I plan on keeping the batteries mounted where they were and where the tank sat a bit lower down, having for storage of gear that doesn't mind weather.
I plan on building in the transom a bit, I have an idea what I want, will think about it more when i am at that stage...... I don't want to restrict access to batteries, fuel primer and storage, but I also don't want a wide open transom either, I don't really like that look. Also going to have to think about deck drainage if I do build the transom in a bit.
Future Glen will worry about that, present Glen is up to his neck in demolition/rebuilding.....
Also tossing up building the floor on the area that I have finished. Think I might, so that I have a more stable work platform for working on the other side.....

[Noelm]

I guess there is no reason why you can't do the floor in sections, it's just "normal" to do all the structure work, then the floor in one go.

[gford001]

Got a lil done
Next stringer out. I left the keel as I want to get the support for the fuel tank in place so I have a height to go off for the keel.
Didnt get a chance to grind it out as had to cut away at lunch to do some shit. Was keen to get at least half the new stringer in, but oh well.
Was pretty rotten.
Getting there.
Got a new respirator and goggles. Makes a big difference to be able to see and breathe while grinding.117583

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[Noelm]

It's amazing how boats stay together when you get to see inside one hey, let alone when it's rotted away.

[Fed]

My Viking tank sits on a complete 'floor' like a coffin.

[ozscott]

I had a Haines Hunter from the 70's that used unglassed and unpainted ply for the floor.... My mates Carribean Reef Runner has had numerous soft areas in the floor cut out. My Vagabond transom needed doing because the top SS seal had come away and for years had let water in but the floor was like concrete. All boats had flaws including the classics.

Cheers

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[gazza2006au]

Hey Gford your powering thru this like lightning man well done, i aint nit picking so just take this as a general question i see where your laminating your stringers to it looks white it should really look like bare fibreglass are u possibly laminating to a paint? just wondering cause it may have premature delaminating at some point

[gford001]

My Viking tank sits on a complete 'floor' like a coffin.Sweet. Pretty much my plan. It should take up about half the length of the boat. Going to make the other half into underfloor storage.
Going for 75l tank. I was going to go bigger, or plan B was to keep the 60l under the transom and use 2 tanks, but I'm going to roll with the 75L tank and my 2 jerries. I like this idea as I can take the jerries out and put them in the car or whatever when I go back to work for the month. Less fuel sitting around in tanks.

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[gford001]

Hey Gford your powering thru this like lightning man well done, i aint nit picking so just take this as a general question i see where your laminating your stringers to it looks white it should really look like bare fibreglass are u possibly laminating to a paint? just wondering cause it may have premature delaminating at some pointThink I'm grinding back to bare fiberglass. I'll have a look, but that was my plan.
I havent done a whole lot of glassing in the stringers yet, just gluing and moving onto the next. Think I'll glass the lot after.

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[gazza2006au]

Think I'm grinding back to bare fiberglass. I'll have a look, but that was my plan.
I havent done a whole lot of flashing in the stringers yet, just gluing and moving onto the next. Think I'll glass the lot after.

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Ah yeah all good i thought u were already glassing them in, dismiss my earlier question :)

[gford001]

Another good day finished.
Had kids sport all morning, so an after lunch start. Got it all ground out and next stringer in.
Gave it a good clean out, then put the rear half in, it was pretty warm so the resin was going off pretty quick. I gave the rear half about an hour and a half to get reasonably solid. Then got the front half in.
My tip to anyone wanting to do this, good respirator and goggles.
I had the disposable dust masks and glasses. Was shit.
Got a good respirator and some goggles. Man its amazing what a difference being able to see and breathe can make.... not having to stop for a breather.
Havent been coughing my ass off all arvo either. Still itchy as #### though......
Anyway. Photos posted.

117586117587

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[gazza2006au]

Your not wrong about the respirator that was on my list as one of the very first things i got mine from Bunnings a 3M mask for painting (gases rom the resin) and dust particales i have used the mask heaps especially yesterday cleaning up the huge pile of talc in the shed, i did however venture on without goggles but those were soon purchased lol i had shit flying everywhere today in the wind dust all over the place couldn't see a bloody thing untill i put the goggles on

be careful when u sand old glass as it has MEKP hardener i think its a carcinogen will give u lung cancer as the fibers in the fiberglass can't work there way out of your lungs unlike the stomach where it can be digested

always shower after u do sanding too wash your clothes that u are wearing to get rid of all the dust so u don't carry it around the house for other people and especially kids to breath in

the itchy side of it is part of the game this is why manufacturers and boat rebuilders wear suits but man u absolutely bake in them

[BigE]

Loving the build keep the pic's comming.

BigE

[ranmar850]

yep, full respect for anyone that wants to take on a project like this.

[gford001]

Bit more done today. Not much grinding, a fair bit of glassing.
I was going to just glass in the fuel tank supports on both sides, but while I was doing one side I kept stepping on where the other side would be. I thought if I do both, I'm just going to mess up the first one I did by standing all over it.
Plan changed, ended up glassing the stringer in up past where the fuel tank is meant to go.
I ground the floor out, but apparently didnt account for the plan changing and I think i managed to glass onto the shitty bit up the end.
I'll have to see how it looks tomorrow, will only be 10mm if that, maybe sanding/grinding back a little.
Theres a few layers of glass. 3 or 4 all over. I built up from the bottom, eventually cutting a big piece and going over the lot. Looked pretty tidy.
Still rolling out bubbles as you can see in the photos.
117594117595

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[gazza2006au]

Good thing about fiberglass over plywood is if u make a mistake just let it cure come back sand it back and lay another bit of cloth over it its very or giving, under the floor no one will see the repair anyway

looking good

[gford001]

Good thing about fiberglass over plywood is if u make a mistake just let it cure come back sand it back and lay another bit of cloth over it its very or giving, under the floor no one will see the repair anyway

looking goodYeah figured I'd wait til it cured and see how it looks. If I tried to fix it as I went I reckon it would've been worse. Likely just needs a tiny bit of grinding/sanding. Gotta cut out the keel anyway, so I'll sort it then.

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[gford001]

Another productive morning.
Got the keel out.
Gave it a good grind back too.
If I get motivation after lunch I might get started on shaping the new keel.
Pics attached.
First one is just after ripping it out, second after grinding.
Amazing how much easier and quicker it gets with experience.
Ripped out a couple of through hull fittings that were bogged up. Guessing it must've had a toilet or something at some point. Be nice to get rid of those.
117610117611

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[gford001]

Got a little bit more motivation after I picked the kids up from school. Thought I'd cut the rear half of the keel.
Once it was cut and fitted,I figured screw it, I might as well stick it in place so I can get straight into the front, tricky half in the morning. Happy I got it in.
Pics attached 117617

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[Noelm]

All coming together now, just wait until the floor goes in, it will seem like it's finished, but of course it isn't! are you just going to flow coat the floor and try to "speckle" it somehow? flow coat is another learning experience, looks easy, but it's tricky.

[gford001]

All coming together now, just wait until the floor goes in, it will seem like it's finished, but of course it isn't! are you just going to flow coat the floor and try to "speckle" it somehow? flow coat is another learning experience, looks easy, but it's tricky.I considered it. But I think I'm going to keep it simple. Solid white flowcoat, basically everywhere, then that foam adhesive flooring stuff in grey. Hopefully manage to come up with something like this.... obviously a bit more simple, but that's my current idea.117618

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[gford001]

Another decent days work done. Got the front half of the keel in. Got fillets done as well. Ran out of resin. Ordered more on Monday, so should be here this arvo or tomorrow.
Was at a bit of a loss after I got that done, so decided to cut some wood.
Cut the fuel tank base. But the 12mm ply I had was fully delaminated. It was no good. So I returned it to the guy and grabbed an additional piece, as I figured I'd need a bit....
Got the fuel tank base cut then, and decided to knock up a few bulkheads as well.
Used them as a template and roughed up some for the other side to put in, but I have to rip that last stringer out first.....
Photos attached. First is the keel in. Then fuel tank base, and bulkhead fitting.117619117620117621

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[gford001]

Big day. Heaps done.
Got the last stringer out. Ground out all the crap.
Ran the grinder around the edge of the floor and got rid of the remnants there too.
Shaped my new stringer.
Resin resup arrived so got the front half stuck in place and fillets done.
Going to measure and install the rear half later this arvo. Then a big day glassing tomorrow.
Plan is to start building up on what I've got in place. Get into the fuel tank compartment and underfloor storage. Get into the cockpit floor. And move forward.
Really only have 3 or 4 more good days work before I have to pack everything up and get back to work for a month.....117624117625

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[gford001]

Plan changed again. This time due to the weather.
Reports of 3 days of solid rain, figured I wouldn't risk getting into glassing in case it came on quicker then expected, and I'm working outside.
I cut some floor pieces. Really stoked with how they look. A bit of grinding and planing will get them in snug.
Tested out my tank fitting. Real happy it went in perfect, was worried I had cut it too fine.
Laid the floor down as I needed to store my gear in a more weatherproof location if this rain does hit, and I wanted the pieces of ply in more manageable sizes as they went into the boat to keep dry too.
Pretty happy with the progress. I'd rather have a few more days on it to get the glassing well under way, but oh well, hopefully get a day or 2 before I need to bugger off again for work.
If I dont at least its dry and secure while I'm gone.
Photos attached.117626117627117628117629

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[gazza2006au]

Coming together really quickly and nicely Gford, How big is that tank? it should add some good ballast weight for stability

[gford001]

Coming together really quickly and nicely Gford, How big is that tank? it should add some good ballast weight for stabilityYeah I'm pretty happy so far.
It's a 75L tank. Upgraded from 60L under the transom.
Was keen on one a bit bigger, 85-100, but that one was an absolute perfect fit.
I normally run with 2 jerries which I have built in little spots for them, you'll see later when I get to that..... I like this idea as I can just grab the jerries out and pour them in the car so the fuel isn't sitting. 115L including jerries should be ample for my use.

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[gazza2006au]

How will u be putting the floor down with bags of sand or screws or another method?

[gford001]

How will u be putting the floor down with bags of sand or screws or another method?I have avoided using screws so far. Was thinking it was a good idea.
Unless anyone's got better ideas I was going to use a shitload of resin thickened into glue with Fumed Silica and a bunch of heavy stuff to hold it down......
The stringers are stuck really well using it, so figured the floor would stay down well enough.
And of course glass the hell out if it after it sets....

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[Noelm]

I screwed mine down with lots of stainless countersunk screws, then sealed the heads and just glassed over them.

[gford001]

I screwed mine down with lots of stainless countersunk screws, then sealed the heads and just glassed over them.
I bought a bunch of stainless countersunk screws just for this purpose.
Might put a few in, just concerned about splitting the timber or tearing the fiberglass.
That resin glue sticks like crazy, shouldn't need a lot more to hold it.

[gazza2006au]

Yeah when i get around to it i was planning as your plan a, glue the floor to the stringers and use bags of sand to hold the floor down nice and tight untill the glue sets than once the floor is glassed down that thing is not moving at all

bags of sand are heavy and easy to vacuum if one breaks open and they are cheap to buy easy to dispose of when finished just sprinkle it around the yard will help with drainage

[gford001]

Yeah when i get around to it i was planning as your plan a, glue the floor to the stringers and use bags of sand to hold the floor down nice and tight untill the glue sets than once the floor is glassed down that thing is not moving at all

bags of sand are heavy and easy to vacuum if one breaks open and they are cheap to buy easy to dispose of when finished just sprinkle it around the yard will help with drainageYeah I'll try that. Good idea.
Went to the boat show this morning, then decided to do a little bit this arvo. Just stuff that could be packed up quick if it started raining......
Did a bit of glassing, just bits and pieces. The main piece was the fuel tank base. The underside of that.
Dumb question of the day. Would you glass the undersides of the floor etc? Or just resin? I've read many things. Watched videos and most just resin.
Glassing the underside of that tank base was a pain in the ass. Be nice to just be able to seal it with resin (floor uneersides)..... thoughts?
I imagine glass would be better, but necessary?

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[gford001]

Forgot my photo. Underside of tank base.117634

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[gazza2006au]

When u glass one side of plywood and let the resin cure it can warp the plywood my transom done this when i put the inside layer of glass on with the transom out of the boat, something to think about weather to glass both sides of your floor

[gford001]

When u glass one side of plywood and let the resin cure it can warp the plywood my transom done this when i put the inside layer of glass on with the transom out of the boat, something to think about weather to glass both sides of your floor
Yeah reckon I will glass the undersides, going to do the larger pieces in several smaller batches though, doing the tank base with 1 big piece of glass was a pain.

[gford001]

Happy with today's progress.
Started by grinding all the shit out of this side, back to glass. That was easy, not a lot left.
Got all the portside glassed, up to where the first piece of floor slots in anyway. Really happy with it.
Put a couple bulkheads in, did them as it was all still wet, so should have a really good bond.
Got my little shelf in under the transom too.
Was thinking about going hard and getting this side floor in, but with only 1 day of working on it left before I have to pack it up and go back to work for a month, I think ill leave it out. I'll glass in the keel and other side stringers tomorrow hopefully. That way I can pack everything into the boat and seal it up.117638117639

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[gford001]

Back into it. Got heaps done on the weekend, despite the rain. I got the portside floor in, the fuel tank base and front in. The underfloor storage in and a bulkhead to separate them.
Been glassing away like crazy. Had to order yet another 24L of resin. Man this shit eats resin.......
Oh, and ripped out the old rotted out shelf.....
Anyway, a couple progress shots.
Was going to take photos on the weekend, but it was a shitfight.
Plan is to start finishing that side off from the transom forward.....117866117867117868117869

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[gazza2006au]

Looks good Ford almost time to clean up and paint it all, i hear u about the resin mine transom ate 16-18litres about 2 litres waste

24 litres of resin does not last long when your motivated and in action, also a tip write the date u open your resin and hardener on the bottles so u know they only have a 12 month life span less if its been in the sun, West Systems last 3 years but the stuff from Trojan Fibreglass only last 12 months

[gford001]

Looks good Ford almost time to clean up and paint it all, i hear u about the resin mine transom ate 16-18litres about 2 litres waste

24 litres of resin does not last long when your motivated and in action, also a tip write the date u open your resin and hardener on the bottles so u know they only have a 12 month life span less if its been in the sun, West Systems last 3 years but the stuff from Trojan Fibreglass only last 12 monthsGood idea.
Although at this rate, I'm not sure how much will be left over......
Got a full roll of glass too, and chewing that up, expected a shitload left there too......

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[gford001]

Been getting a lot done despite the weather.
The tarp that I cover the boat with got raised and used as a shade shelter last week when it was ridiculously hot, worked just as well to keep the rain out this week.
Got both sides of the floor in now, and glassed the fuel tank compartment in. Put a solid bulkhead in between it and the underfloor storage. And glassed that in too. Need to get a forward bulkhead in place to finish off that compartment.
Did a heap of glassing on the floor, mostly finished that in the rear half of the boat. Feels solid as hell. I put an extra layer of glass under where the kids tend to jump into the boat off the transom. Doubt it needs it (12mm ply floor), but may as well.....
Got one brace in onto the transom. Will get the other side in after this round of glass is done.
Overall, really happy.
Just wish the rain would stop so I can get back to cutting wood, ie. The fuel tank cover and some side shelves......
Been a bit slack on photos. Been tough keeping up with the muddy footprints and crap collecting in the boat. Tends to look like a bit of a shitfight. Until the weather improves and I can spread out again.......117899117900117901117902117903

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[gazza2006au]

This rain a real pain in the ass i can't seem to get any work at all done on my boat because its outside the rain just keeps coming each day

[gford001]

Yeah. I got sick of sitting around. Figured if I'm just going to be down glassing, then I could raise the tarp and do it in the rain. Only drama is the footprints and having a ton of gear getting in the way. Cant spread it out like I want.
Also cant cut new bits, lucky I was at a stage where I was sanding and glassing

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[gazza2006au]

Did u get any off gassing or air pockets in the laminate after it cured while it was raining?

[gford001]

Nah, seemed to cure better. I had a couple of air pockets last week and before, but it has seemed to go on really well yesterday and today.
Dunno if I'm just getting better.....

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[gazza2006au]

Makes me wonder what professional fiberglassers do on rainy days play chest and drink coffee? Maybe u just cant get the laminate wet

[Dignity]

Make or repair moulds, prepare for glassing but generally they know how much MEKP to use.

[gford001]

Makes me wonder what professional fiberglassers do on rainy days play chest and drink coffee? Maybe u just cant get the laminate wetHaha yeah.

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[gford001]

Got a fair bit done again. Did some sanding and cleaning up ahead of flow coating. Was going to do a bit of flow coat. But decided to clean it up a bit more and flow coat tomorrow or after.....
Weather cleared enough to get some bits cut. I cut a shelf and a couple of (braces? Dunno what you'd call them. The shelf ends....)
Got the fuel tank top cut too. And glassed a side of it.
Had a couple bits to sand and re glass inside, just small areas that didn't seem to have enough resin.
Anyway. Pics attached.
Its coming together nicely.117908117909

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[gford001]

Another day, a bit more done.....
I keep thinking I could so more, but with glass curing. And flowcoat going off. I tend to walk all over stuff if I try to do too much....
Anyway. A bit of flowcoat done and the fuel tank top glassed. Also cut the forward bulkhead for under floor storage. I glassed the bottom of that ready to go in. Might stick it in later this arvo as the hot weather has the glass curing pretty quick.

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[gford001]

Couldn't post photos before ....117931117932117933117934

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[gazza2006au]

Steaming along Gford, i found the resin goes off to quick in the hotter months i plan on buying a small bottle of super slow cure for summer it gives a extra 10min pot life when your talking a 15min pot life that extra 10 is a lot of time

[gford001]

Steaming along Gford, i found the resin goes off to quick in the hotter months i plan on buying a small bottle of super slow cure for summer it gives a extra 10min pot life when your talking a 15min pot life that extra 10 is a lot of timeYeah. In full sun the glass was curing quick. In the shade it's not so bad.
The flow coat was going off pretty quick too, I just made small batches and got it down quick.

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[gford001]

Couple more progress pics. I was planning on doing a heap, but a shitty drizzly morning saw me with very little motivation.....
I see what you mean about glassing when it's raining. The stuff i put down yesterday on the fuel tank top was shit. Had to rip up a few patches with the grinder, then a good layer of glass in the sun after it came out. Looks good now......
A couple of small patches of flowcoat were also still tacky. Assuming itll go off eventually?
I got the fuel tank in and the aluminium angle for the tank top.
The plan is, once it has been flow coated, to put it in and seal with tape for now.
The long term plan is to stick it in and seal it with sikaflex, so that'll it is sealed and doesn't fill with dust/water etc, but can be removed without cutting, just a knife and a heap of swearing....... 117958117959

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[gazza2006au]

I think its the high humidity in the air as why we cannot glass on rainy days the resin doesn't cure because of the moisture in the air

[Crooked]

I'm using epoxy in FNQ so humidity is basically high all the time, there are rare days where it is below 70% but typically I would be doing the work above 70% and with temps of 30 degrees. I use super slow hardener for all the work due to the temp and it does go off quickly due to the heat but I don't have issues with a non-cure or a partial cure at all. I expect there are some effects the humidity has on the overall strength of the bond and the plywood probably has a higher moisture content when it is glassed than it should. But that's just the way it is in doing the work up here, I'm still comfortable with the result and expect the strength will still be more than sufficient.

Just looking at your pics, not sure whether it is the type of hardener or wood but the epoxy cure you have looks more cloudy than I am getting. Pics below, I threw these up in your thread too Gazza, all but the centre stringer done now.

117999118000

[gazza2006au]

Crooked i noticed that too but never thought much of it maybe Gford isn't allowing enough resin to soak into the cloth before it goes off? i noticed this yesterday while i was glassing using a paint brush i had to add a little more resin to get the cloth to that translucent state before i moved on

[gford001]

Havent been making as much progress lately as I'd hoped, but got a bit done today.
Cut out the shelf in the cabin. Was gonna leave it in, but found it was masonite, so out it goes.
Going to get rid of the other one too, its made of what looks like sawdust holding hands, not really strong anymore.
Got the fuel tank cover in. Pretty happy with the fit. Covered with plastic now to protect it.
Got a couple little bits in (where I plan on putting fuel jerries), just sitting in for now.
Forward cabin floor cut and sitting in for now. Not 100% happy with the fit, but I think itll work.
Gotta secure it for another month, work calls.
Shame it's not finished.118026118027118028118029118030

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[gford001]

Crooked i noticed that too but never thought much of it maybe Gford isn't allowing enough resin to soak into the cloth before it goes off? i noticed this yesterday while i was glassing using a paint brush i had to add a little more resin to get the cloth to that translucent state before i moved onI think it's where theres multiple layers. One layer is nice and clear, but when I go 2 or 3 it gets cloudy.
I've been using a shitload of resin, was worried some bits was too much.

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[gazza2006au]

I wouldn't worry about your cabin floor looks like an ok fit just make a really thick glue mix that wont sag it will bridge any gaps mix your glue so it balls up in the cup

[gford001]

I wouldn't worry about your cabin floor looks like an ok fit just make a really thick glue mix that wont sag it will bridge any gaps mix your glue so it balls up in the cupYeah it's not too bad. Just disappointed I didnt get it better.

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[gford001]

Just had an idea. The forward shelves had a piece of maybe 20mm square timber glassed to them, and nailed/glassed to the bulkhead for a bit of extra support.
My question, I have some 25x25x3mm aluminium angle left over.
If I mixed some resin glue and stuck/glassed that on would it do the job? I'm sure its strong enough, but would the resin and glass stick well enough to the aluminium?
I guess I could screw it, but would rather not.....

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[Cox76y]

gford,
are you consolidating your glass n resin after it has been laid? You need to ensure enough resin is applied so that it breaks up the binders in the matting. No need to consolidate every layer, I tend to do it with every 2nd layer using 450 matting..You do need to ensure that you have applied enough resin to the first layer before you put the 2nd layer down as it is extremely difficult to push the resin through the top layer of glass to layers underneath it. If the first layer is not wet out enough then in effect every other layer you apply on top of it is binding to something that is not sufficiently bound to the structure.. Im not 100% sure on using the aluminium but I imagine that if you ruffed it up with a very course grinding wheel then the glass should stick to it fine..
JC

[gford001]

gford,
are you consolidating your glass n resin after it has been laid? You need to ensure enough resin is applied so that it breaks up the binders in the matting. No need to consolidate every layer, I tend to do it with every 2nd layer using 450 matting..You do need to ensure that you have applied enough resin to the first layer before you put the 2nd layer down as it is extremely difficult to push the resin through the top layer of glass to layers underneath it. If the first layer is not wet out enough then in effect every other layer you apply on top of it is binding to something that is not sufficiently bound to the structure.. Im not 100% sure on using the aluminium but I imagine that if you ruffed it up with a very course grinding wheel then the glass should stick to it fine..
JCYeah I thought it was fine. Plenty of resin. Rolling it out. Seems to be sticking fine. I just thought the cloudiness was from multiple layers, as it gets more pronounced as the glass layers get thicker.
It feels solid as a rock.

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[gford001]

Back into it after a few weeks at work.
Cleaned up the last area that needed a floor.
Glassed the underside of this bit, patched the plumbing holes and stuck it in place.
Happy with how it's gone.
Tomorrow will be sanding/grinding to clean the dags, then a couple layers of glass I guess.
Then will have to figure out which bit to cut next, i think it'll be those 2 forward bulkheads.
I moved from the transom forward, now looks like ill have to work from forward back......118238

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[gford001]

Took advantage of the shade and decided to see how my seat boxes looked.
Quick polish up and threw the door on.
Pretty happy with it.
Not perfect but 100% better then they were. They never had doors, so were just dead space. All beat up, so the not quite perfect flow coat finish is still a big improvement.
Ignore the bottom, going to get stuck down and glassed in, so the bottom bit is still rough.118239

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[giddyup58]

The cloudiness comes from heat build up doing multiple layers.
Shouldn't lay more than 1100gsm in one go. Don't quite know how I remembered that.
Great build thread.
Keep up the good work!

[gford001]

The cloudiness comes from heat build up doing multiple layers.
Shouldn't lay more than 1100gsm in one go. Don't quite know how I remembered that.
Great build thread.
Keep up the good work!Cheers. Didn't know that.

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[gford001]

Got a bit done this morning.
Cut and fitted the forward bulkhead. Happy with it.
Had a bit of glue left over, didnt want to waste it, so found another bit to stick in.
Dunno what youd call it, but it's in.
Did a bit of glassing. Didn't plan it out too well, so ended up climbing all over it.
Got the small outer stringer glassed in, was gonna do the bigger one, but found some shitty glass that needs fixing first, so I'll clean that up before I glass the rest in.
One thing, not sure if I should be giving advice, but there's one idea that I had that's turned our well. When I cut the old floor and stuff out, I left the edges in place, the plan was that when i came to putting it back together I'd know where it all went. Worked a treat, now i measure up, then grind the old lip out, new piece in.
Been good.
118245118246118247

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[gford001]

Few more update pics.
Havent been getting as much done lately as I'd like. Seems everyone wants a piece of me on the lead up to Christmas, but been trudging along.
Getting the cabin rebuilt.
Was planning on flowcoating inside this storage compartment before putting the top pieces on, but ended up finding a bunch of shitty glass that needed a grind back and redo, done now and side bits on.
Still plenty of access to flowcoat inside this arvo maybe, possibly next few days......
Anyway, pics attached.118288118289118290118291118292

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[gazza2006au]

Looking good ford, no one will see the glue once shes painted she'll look pristine mate, i dont think half the people realise how many man hours go into rebuilds like this it sure does make paying a shop to do the work worth it but than again if u do it your self u know how its done and done your way

[gford001]

Looking good ford, no one will see the glue once shes painted she'll look pristine mate, i dont think half the people realise how many man hours go into rebuilds like this it sure does make paying a shop to do the work worth it but than again if u do it your self u know how its done and done your wayCheers.
Getting there. Got a fair bit done yesterday too. Hopefully more sgain today.
Got that flowcoat done, also had a bit of a tidy up of dags and stuff.
118297

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[gford001]

More progress shots. Actually looks like im making progress now.
I cut out the cabin shelves and also the little shelf near the helm. So pretty much removed the last of what needs removing.
Got the portside in and glassed, then bulkhead in. Same same starboard.
New shelves are cut and glassed, ready to be put in.
Also stuck in shelf supports.
Heap of glassing to follow.
Got a couple days of helping a mate, so boats secured against shitty weather, hopefully back into it soon.118310118311118312

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[gazza2006au]

Looking good Ford

[gford001]

Been a while since an update.
Been plugging along with it.
Got the cabin basically glassed in.
Going to grind/sand tomorrow and hopefully itll be good to go.
Got a side pocket in as well as the one higher up.
Got my jerry holder in. Made a little alcove behind it to use some more wasted space. Looks about perfect to fit a fire extinguisher or EPIRB. Think ill put one each side.
Thought about my transom. Ordered a couple of big hatches. Ill put one each side.
Made a couple more hatches......
Last piece of 12mm ply i got is a little lighter coloured..... same guy, same ply, feels the same, just a lighter colour. And looks even lighter in photos. Seems ok though.
Been chewing through resin. 84L so far. And not going to be a lot of the full roll of glass left either...... this thing is bloody solid.
Anyway photos attached.
Oh, weird question, but i found a 50c coin when i was stripping the boat, it was built into a shelf.
Now i know traditionally builders used to do stuff like building coins into window frames for luck or some such (in houses).
My question, if it was for this purpose, would it be from the year the boat was made? Its a 1971 coin, didnt think the boat was that old..... No biggie if it is, i guess just more impressed with how its held up for even more years then i thought.....
And just to maintain the luck, i have built it back into the boat. Planning to add a 2018 coin on the other shelf (yep, call me superstitious). Need all the luck i can get.....
Last drawing is what i reckon I'll do with the transom.118423118424118425118426118427118428

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[gazza2006au]

Look the coin up it could be worth a bit of money shes looking nice Ford you sure are putting a lot of work into her once shes painted it will look mint man well done on the top efforts

84L fmd that is a huge amount of resin and its all epoxy so u know this thing is going to be as tough as a Australian Army Tank

[gford001]

Look the coin up it could be worth a bit of money shes looking nice Ford you sure are putting a lot of work into her once shes painted it will look mint man well done on the top efforts

84L fmd that is a huge amount of resin and its all epoxy so u know this thing is going to be as tough as a Australian Army TankHaha I googled it, found one for 20 bucks on eBay, 30 bucks through some other site. It is actually a little bit rare but at the moment it's sitting in a pile of resin on a shelf. Think ill keep it there. Need the luck.
Dunno about looking mint, hopefully comes up okay.
It does feel solid though. 5mm Masonite floor replaced by 12mm ply.....

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[gford001]

Been busy as hell with my part time job, seems like a full time job lately, boat progress has suffered as a result.
Upside is that my budget that was suffering has had a topup. So thats a good thing.
Messed around with Q cells and making a fairing mixture, went well. Stuff went in nicely once i came up with a consistency that i liked. Only thing is I used quite a lot of q cells, so have cutback on what gets faired, to whats visible.
Sanded up nice, then got a coat of flowcoat on.
Came up reasonably well. My mate recommended these microfibre rollers. Theyre brilliant, so much better then a brush.
Theres a couple shitty patches, a few dags where it looks like the flowcoat was going off on the roller, a few thin bits and a few missed bits, so a light sand and another coat is in order.
My hatches and speakers arrived so I cut my transom bits and speaker holes.
Rough fitted them.
Made the transom out of 2 pieces of 6mm. Partly for ease of making, and partly because i didnt have a piece big enough to do it in 1 hit.
Anyway. Photos attached.
Happy new year.118435118436118437118438118439118440118441118 442

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[gazza2006au]

Not long now and you'll be smashing that bottle of campaign over the bow

[gford001]

Been a bit slack on the updates.
Been busy as hell with the part time gig. Good for the budget, bad for the progress....
Have been getting stuff done slowly.
Pretty much all construction finished.
Built the transom in, all shelves in, cabin flowcoated.....
Still a big mess, will give it a clean out and get a few progress shots.
Found a guy to paint it. Convinced me 2K was the go. Id rather re gelcoat it, but i think it might be cost prohibitive. And i just want it done.....
With 2K i can do it a colour, I'm thinking grey above the waterline, white cabin......
Oh yeah, got my outboard off too. Wasnt that fun with just a mate to help manhandle it......118545118546118547

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[gazza2006au]

This is coming a long really nicely even tho its not painted i can see all your hard work paying off that side panel and the back panel look really nice and well thought out

[gford001]

Making progress. Basically all construction now done.
Did a bit of flowcoating, the hard to reach places....
Got my seatbases glassed in.
Tried the forward hatch for size, found the latch to be a bit off centre. I know that it would bug the shit out of me everytime i looked at it, and being the middle of the floor. That's a lot..... filled and recut the hole, happy now......
Took the tank out again, was only sitting in.
Some flowcoating and its done. Construction wise anyway.
I do plan on building a new dash, but I'll do that once its mostly done....
Anyway, a few photos.
I will reassamble it for photos soon, theres more done then it looks like.....118572118573118574

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[shakey55]

Getting there. Slow and steady wins the race. Looks like our doing a great job. I’m keen to see the finished product as you are I expect.

Well done - keep up the good work.


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[gford001]

Got it all flowcoated this morning.
Pretty stoked.
Once its gone off ill have a look, will need touch up/another coat, but happy with it right now.
Got my hatches sorted. Fuel tank hatch, some idiot cut the hole too big (me)..... fixed that, and got the storage hatch hole centered, so it wont annoy me now.....
I can be a real perfectionist at times, i see these build threads on here and facebook and they look so good, then get frustrated with the small things that arent right on this..... then i look at my photos and it looks just as good, so can only imagine that all these builds have small bits that the owners not happy with.
Overall i think its coming up okay.118577118578

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[Noelm]

Just be careful putting a second coat on, I found it not so easy as the first coat (but I am no professional) especially if you are just doing a touch up, the edges don't just kind of disappear like paint does, you will have a "step" and the second coat doesn't kind of stick to the first one (maybe the wax?) it certainly can be done, but, as you mention you are a perfectionist, it might give you some grief.

[gford001]

Just be careful putting a second coat on, I found it not so easy as the first coat (but I am no professional) especially if you are just doing a touch up, the edges don't just kind of disappear like paint does, you will have a "step" and the second coat doesn't kind of stick to the first one (maybe the wax?) it certainly can be done, but, as you mention you are a perfectionist, it might give you some grief.Cheers.
Ill see how it goes.
I plan on doing eva foam floor, hopefully something like that photo. Obviously that's a professional seadeck install..... but thats the idea. Therefore i can handle a less then perfect finished floor.
I put the side panels in for a fit check. Not too bad.
2 things, i can't get the brush on flowcoat finish good enough, and too much white (maybe better with the flooring in, but dunno).
So ive decided on a solution to both. I'm going to sand them back to smooth, then get them sprayed the same grey as im going to do the boat, which should be the same as the floor. I reckon that'll look good.
2K has no dramas going over flowcoat i hope?118580118581

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[gford001]

Slow progress.
Retiling the house floor now too. And the Mrs. Conveniently decided to organise it for the week she goes back to work.....
Been doing bits and pieces.
Have stripped it out more. Windows out, new dash in etc.
Plan on towing to the painter for him to have a look tomorrow.
Then onto the upholsterer who is next door to him to see what they think.
Bunch of bits and pieces inside that i need to touch up, but too hot today......118630118631

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[gazza2006au]

Nice looking boat Ford those seat post and side panels look nicely done, are u painting the whole outside?

[gford001]

Nice looking boat Ford those seat post and side panels look nicely done, are u painting the whole outside?Whole outside getting done.
I plan on doing a charcoal top of the hull.
It will have light grey flooring, going to sand back the inside panels and paint the same charcoal.
I couldnt get the inside panels good enough with a brush, and it was very white. I thought paint to match outside would look good.
And cabin upholstery lighter grey to match flooring......
Seats are still blue/white though, will change them to match grey colors later.....
Hopefully.

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[gford001]

The top, top will be white, just charcoal from waterline to gunnels. To clarify.

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[gazza2006au]

Should look nice

[Crooked]

Looking good! I’d be interested in what the painter has to say on prep and cost of painting the outside as I will get to that stage later this year myself.

[gford001]

Looking good! I’d be interested in what the painter has to say on prep and cost of painting the outside as I will get to that stage later this year myself.Where you located? I found a guy up bribie way, nice bloke, does a good job and cheap. Low overheads.
Plus hes happy for me to help, cheaper again.

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[Crooked]

Ah yeah unfortunately i’m up in Cairns. But hopefully I can find someone up here who will do the same.

[gford001]

Ah yeah unfortunately i’m up in Cairns. But hopefully I can find someone up here who will do the same.
Should be able to get away with about 2 grand.
Going to see about building the transom up for 25in leg too, so maybe 500 more or so......
Im helping him, and he is doing it on the cheap for me, kind of a mate.....
Also got another of my mates to help, my usual fishing partner, told him he can come and earn some fishing credits......

[gford001]

Quick update.
Been away for another month for work. Boat got painted while i was away, havent seen it in the flesh yet, but looks pretty good apparently.
Getting the suzuki 140 put on when i get home, cant wait, getting close.
Some before painter and after photos (mrs emailed them to me).....118873118874118875118876118877

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[giddyup58]

Wow! What a difference a paint job makes!
I like your choice of Grey/Matterhorn.
Couldn't tell from the pics - Did you lift the transom 5"?

[gford001]

Wow! What a difference a paint job makes!
I like your choice of Grey/Matterhorn.
Couldn't tell from the pics - Did you lift the transom 5"?No. I wanted to but the fibreglasser was pushing back...... I dont think he wanted to mess with it too much.
Convinced me that a jack plate would be quicker/cheaper and just as good.
At this stage i just wanted to get it done, and the budget is stretching......

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[gazza2006au]

Looks good Ford i personally wouldn't go with a all black hull i remember posting a video of a tinny off Cronulla capsized it was all painted black under the hull the rescue helicoper was deployed and they could barely find the boat because of the black hull on a cloudy day the water was dark

[gford001]

Looks good Ford i personally wouldn't go with a all black hull i remember posting a video of a tinny off Cronulla capsized it was all painted black under the hull the rescue helicoper was deployed and they could barely find the boat because of the black hull on a cloudy day the water was darkYeah. I was thinking that, and i did want the white underneath, but thats how it turned out......
I wasnt home to do anything about it.
The painter tried it with a white hull, then grey from waterline to gunnels. He said it looked shit, so redid it all grey.
I wasnt in phone range to ask.
Looks good though, guess i will just do my best to keep it upright. :-)

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[scottar]

Few big reflective safety stripes under the hull..........she'll be right - and the pelagics will think you are a bait ball...……...provided you stay right side up :P.

[gford001]

Finally making some progress. Days away from a water run.
Been away getting the new (15 model) Suzuki 140 fitted.
Picked it up this arvo.
Figured I don't need seats, or much at all really to get it in the water, so patched a bit of flowcoat under the fuel tank so that can go in tomorrow, and a small bit of glass work where the gunnel rubber end caps attach that were missed earlier, so that they can all cure overnight and not hold me up tomorrow.
Tomorrow, around kids soccer games etc, the fuel tank will go in, windows in, windscreen on, bilge pumps in, gunnel rubber on, oh, bungs in..... dunno, that's about all I'll need to get it out.
Anyway, couple of photos attached.
Still needs a sand out and re flowcoat, but that's later. There's a lot of overspray......118989118990118991

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[gazza2006au]

Looks sweet as Ford i thought they gray was going to be a darker gray looks perfect tho

[gford001]

Looks sweet as Ford i thought they gray was going to be a darker gray looks perfect thoThe original photos were darker I think. Looks lighter in these ones, must be the lighting.......
I am pretty happy with it. Can't wait to see how it comes up with windows and everything back on it.

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[gford001]

Righto.
Some progress to be happy with.
Big day today. Got it ready to get wet.
Bungs in, hatches and windows on. Gunnel rubber on, windscreen on, fuel tank sealed in......
Really stoked with how it looks now.
Nowhere near finished, inside needs finishing, and kids are going to be sitting on life jackets for a while, but at least I can get it wet now.
Wasn't 100% on the black on white Seafarer decals, but they're growing on me.
The Ventura 17 ones I am really happy with. I think they look great and the colour is bang on. Especially when my choices were light grey, grey and dark grey (I chose dark grey).
Hopefully everything goes well tomorrow.
Photos attached.118996118997118998118999119000

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[catshark]

well done looks great , like the stickers and the rego in the circle on the tilt is a winner, where you got the stickers from ? the hull color is choice too.. looking forward to water trial test.

[gford001]

well done looks great , like the stickers and the rego in the circle on the tilt is a winner, where you got the stickers from ? the hull color is choice too.. looking forward to water trial test.The seafarer and rego labels were through ultimate marine decals. Got them off eBay.
Didn't mean to tilt so much, but I had a look and I think it's not so bad as the front of the boats jacked up pretty high......
Wasn't sure what to line it up with, the chine or the gunnel......
Hope it's all good anyway.
Can't remember where the Ventura 17 one was from, I just googled marine vinyl decals and found one I liked.

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[gford001]

Water run couldn't have gone better.
Cruises nicely on 30kts at 5000rpm.
Got to 35+kts at one point, but I think it's a little under propped as it was pushing 6500rpm, with more to go.....
Handled really well. Couldn't be happier at this stage.
And it didn't sink.119015

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[gazza2006au]

Of course it didn't sink u built it using epoxy resin thatstuff is harder than Rambo's nuts

[gford001]

Of course it didn't sink u built it using epoxy resin thatstuff is harder than Rambo's nutsHaha yeah it is pretty solid.
Was nice to take the bungs out and not a drop of water came out.......

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[gford001]

The round rego labels haven't really worked out though...... both sides got damaged, peeling off etc. Not sure why, maybe fenders rubbing on them

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[swof63]

Don’t be scared of revs, those 2l Suzuki’s need to scream, you won’t get max v if you aren’t well over 6k.


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[gford001]

Don’t be scared of revs, those 2l Suzuki’s need to scream, you won’t get max v if you aren’t well over 6k.


Sent from my iPhone using Ausfish forumsI was told that it should max out at about 6000rpm. Think this is in the manual as well.
If it goes over 6000rpm, then it needs a bigger prop.
It did like to rev though.
Felt so effortless.

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[catshark]

sounds like the water test came up with good results, hows the boat sit with the new motor , all good there, not to heavy.

[gford001]

sounds like the water test came up with good results, hows the boat sit with the new motor , all good there, not to heavy.Perfect. Sat and rode like a dream.
It is only 12kg heavier then what was on it, I moved the 60L fuel tank from under the transom to a 75L under the floor.
The rebuild likely added a fair amount of weight forward too, as it's more heavily built then it was , and result, sits well.

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[gford001]

Getting there.
Bimini on.
Bilge pumps in, not wired in though.
Floor sanded and flowcoat touched up. I laid down my EVA foam flooring. Looks pretty good I think. Not perfect, but functional.
I got portside pocket in. Starboard not yet as needs a bit of modification.
Got a little bit of wiring done. Batteries and isolator in, solar panel hooked up for my month away.
Needs a bit of flowcoat touched up, but overall pretty happy.
Another 3 or 4 days would be seen it finished, oh well, will finish it in a month when I get back from work.
Photos attached.
Those hoses are the fuel tank breathers, haven't got them sorted yet.
119022119023

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[giddyup58]

Progress? Photos?

[gford001]

Progress? Photos?Getting there.
Had another month at work, home now, done a bit more on the interior, and been for another run across the bay.
Still waiting on my damned switches to finish off the wiring........
Got a refund and ordered them off someone else, so hopefully get that finished this week.
When I get back into it, I'll grab some more photos.

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[gford001]

Got my switches a couple of days ago, so work resumed.
Spent the last couple of days wiring it all up.
Pretty happy with the outcome.
Still needs a bit more tidying and finishing up. But looks as good as I can get it.
Photos look a bit shit. Looks better then that in the flesh......
Needs a rubbish clean out and vacuum tomorrow, a few more bits and pieces attached, seats and rails.....
Will give it a clean tomorrow, fire up the lights and put a couple more pics up.
119258119259119260

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[gford001]

Didn't get it finished off as I wanted.
I was changing a zip tie in an awkward spot and managed to snip a cable, real prick of a spot, where it goes onto one of the strip lights under the pockets.
Took ages to fix it. Had to rip the strip light out. Dismantle it and re sika it back in.....
Anyway, sika is now drying.
Got a few things done, rubbish cleaning ongoing. Changed black zip ties for white (yep all the important shit getting done now.....)
Got seat mounts on. Cut some temporary seats in the cabin (Just shitty ply. Not meant to last forever) as the interior isn't getting done immediately. Gonna cost a grand and life keeps getting in the way.....
Couple photos of it powered up. None of the cockpit yet, still a shitfight......119262119263

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[gazza2006au]

1000 bucks for interior seats? holly molly i would do them my self, She is looking good Fordy cabin lights up nicely

[gford001]

1000 bucks for interior seats? holly molly i would do them my self, She is looking good Fordy cabin lights up nicelyYeah had a couple quotes.... first guy wanted upwards of 1700
Would have a go, but no sewing machine, or clue on how to sew.....
It is pretty well lit up, once I get it cleaned out and sorted I'll put some good pics up, not doing it justice right now.

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[gford001]

Fixed the light and fired it up for a test.
Got the vac out and had a bit of a clean up.
Will hopefully have a good go at it tomorrow.119264

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[gazza2006au]

Depends what kind of finish u want on the seats if u want micky mouse job i guess the $1000 would be well spent, for me i would goto spotlight buy the foam and cover with a industrial stapler and make my own

[gford001]

Finished.
Well, in a George Dubya kind of way.
Still plenty more to do if I look hard enough.......
Gave it a clean out, safety gear in. Ready to go.119280119281119282119283

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[Chimo]

Interesting motor mount, whats the story there pls?
How big is the fuel tank, or do you just top up during periods of lower prices ?
Job looks great, well done.

[gford001]

Its a jack plate 20in transom, 25in motor.
I have a 75L tank under the floor. Good for pretty much everything that I do, but I like to have a backup.
I was going to put the original 60L tank back in as backup, but decided to go with jerries again. 7That way I don't have excess fuel sitting in the boat. I can take jerries out and put the fuel in the car when I go back to work and the boat sits for a month.

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[Chimo]

So the bottom motor holes have a bolt that goes thru the plate and the transom and the top holes only thru the plate?
How thick is the (I assume) ali plate?

Something you knocked up yourself?

[gford001]

So the bottom motor holes have a bolt that goes thru the plate and the transom and the top holes only thru the plate?
How thick is the (I assume) ali plate?

Something you knocked up yourself?Just took this. Shows it pretty well.
The guy who installed the motor had it made. He does them regularly and has a guy.119289

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[Chimo]

OK i think I get it, what thicknes plate did you use?

[gford001]

If have to have a look in the morning. Maybe about 6 or 8mm

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[gazza2006au]

Just took this. Shows it pretty well.
The guy who installed the motor had it made. He does them regularly and has a guy.119289

Sent from my [device_name] using Ausfish mobile app (http://Ausfish mobile app) Glad u took her out already to test the engine on that mounting bracket, There is a guy in the USA that makes the exact same bracket but only rates it for low HP

[catshark]

the motor mount is interesting, ive looked at it for a while. i get the 8mm plate is bolted to the transom together with welded top piece. the side squirts coming in to meet the jack plate are just trims arent they ?

further more excellent job , looks great and i was suprised by how much inside freeboard there is, i mean those pedestal mounts gotta go 600 mm high yeah.

[stevej]

i had a 225 black max bolted to a haines 223 and all it was was a piece of 20mm plate ally
2 bolts through transom 2 through the plate

[ranmar850]

Did a similar thing myself. Went from short twin 2 strokes to LS single 4 stroke. Worked well, still going fine with current owner.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Purely-fishing/i-HN5D8tN/0/00149193/XL/Swiftcraft%20RH%20rear-XL.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Purely-fishing/i-MdgkLrc/0/3c9e961b/XL/Swiftcraft%20LH%20rear-XL.jpg

[Fed]

If you haven't already found out you can bend the filler spout on those jerry cans into a complete U turn and insert it into the filler hole while the jerry can is still upright, then upend it to 90 degrees, sit it on the splashwell wall and open the breather. You won't spill a drop.

[gford001]

the motor mount is interesting, ive looked at it for a while. i get the 8mm plate is bolted to the transom together with welded top piece. the side squirts coming in to meet the jack plate are just trims arent they ?

further more excellent job , looks great and i was suprised by how much inside freeboard there is, i mean those pedestal mounts gotta go 600 mm high yeah.It actually goes over the transom in a C section.
Really solid and full of sikaflex.....
He did a really tidy install.
Second hand motor and if you take the cowling off I reckon there's dirtier engines coming straight out of a crate from Japan.....

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[gazza2006au]

Gford its a nice engine u have but a bit ballsy hanging a 10k donk off that bracket when i was looking into alloy pods i called the guy off ebay i asked if he had insurance for his workmanship incase it broke and engine sunk he relied "what bloody for? I have been in the marine industry for x years" i politely said no worries mate and hung up.... walked away from it a bit risky

[gford001]

Gford its a nice engine u have but a bit ballsy hanging a 10k donk off that bracket when i was looking into alloy pods i called the guy off ebay i asked if he had insurance for his workmanship incase it broke and engine sunk he relied "what bloody for? I have been in the marine industry for x years" i politely said no worries mate and hung up.... walked away from it a bit riskyIf you saw it you wouldn't have any reservations.
Solid as a rock.

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[ranmar850]

Gford its a nice engine u have but a bit ballsy hanging a 10k donk off that bracket when i was looking into alloy pods i called the guy off ebay i asked if he had insurance for his workmanship incase it broke and engine sunk he relied "what bloody for? I have been in the marine industry for x years" i politely said no worries mate and hung up.... walked away from it a bit risky

Done properly, there are no issues with this. Of course, there is no point hanging it off a rotted transom, what you are bolting to to needs to be solid. You need to remember that the thrust is being applied at the bottom of the leg, via the prop, so the thrust is pushing , effectively against the whole transom, not acting purely as a lever against that extension. I could see absolutely no deflection on mine, with full throttle starts on the F115. My transom was proved good when they drilled, clean dry wood.

[scottar]

If that bracket goes anywhere it will only be because it has taken the transom with it.

[Fed]

If that bracket goes anywhere it will only be because it has taken the transom with it.
It's a Seafarer not a Cruisecraft. ;D

[scottar]

It's a Seafarer not a Cruisecraft. ;D

That's right......so it's not going anywhere 😉

[gford001]

Done properly, there are no issues with this. Of course, there is no point hanging it off a rotted transom, what you are bolting to to needs to be solid. You need to remember that the thrust is being applied at the bottom of the leg, via the prop, so the thrust is pushing , effectively against the whole transom, not acting purely as a lever against that extension. I could see absolutely no deflection on mine, with full throttle starts on the F115. My transom was proved good when they drilled, clean dry wood.Yeah
I was a little worried when it was being installed
I thought the transom was solid. It had been replaced previously and felt and sounded solid. But you can never be 100% sure with a second hand boat......
It's all good though, when he installed the motor he said the transom is solid as a rock, no rot at all.

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[gford001]

Decided to modify the canopy. It was the old one, which was a bad fit, made worse by me putting the rocket launcher on.
Decided to cut 10 inches out of it to make it fit inside the rocket launcher, and going to make it a foot or 2 shorter so it doesn't extend past the screen.
Found a virtually perfect fitting piece of pipe and some rivets, feels more rigid the new.....
Now to get some quotes to get it upholstered.......
Need the bunks inside the cabin done too, if anyone wants a cashy???119736119737119738

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[giddyup58]

Hey.
Did you ever get that Bimini finished?
Photos?

[giddyup58]

Bump Bump.

[gford001]

Bit slow. Been real busy. Sorry.
I went with an old T Top that i got for nothing as it was busted. Modified it and fitted it to my rocket launcher.

[gford001]

123335
Took a bit on my satellite internet.... But here's a shot of it.