Water in fuel tank

[Dirtyfuzz]

So for the last 12months I have been treating a starboard fuel tank that has most likely been sitting not completely empty for 20 years and I have inherited the boat and also the problems, originally the first few tanks cleans the petrol came out resembling an espresso but with a lot of fuel doctor treatments, lacquer thinners and acetone it is getting better but not perfect, when I first take a sample the fuel mix is cloudy but clears leaves a brown deposit with varnish grit more noticeable in the straight acetone sample shot.
All hoses and fuel fillers and caps have been replaced and the port tank is perfect
Before I decide on the last resort option of having the tank cut out, I’m open to any other suggestions others may have
Thankshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180720/8fbc3449e326038bd2b0495c15c31ef4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180720/c37fbcefad43b83f44d81a38371286af.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180720/b0862d893265627a8fbec2ada311b812.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180720/d0a12e9ca41ab00600e444dd39683cca.jpg

[Noelm]

Try to get a siphon hose right to the bottom of the tank, either through the filler, or the gauge sender hole if it has one, I used a garden hose with a Snapper lead taped on, move the boat to get the hose to the lowest point and siphon fuel out, no amount of miracle cures will get all the crap out, regardless of what you are told, or what the label says, siphon from the bottom is a must, drain it into plastic tanks on the ground.

[Dirtyfuzz]

Try to get a siphon hose right to the bottom of the tank, either through the filler, or the gauge sender hole if it has one, I used a garden hose with a Snapper lead taped on, move the boat to get the hose to the lowest point and siphon fuel out, no amount of miracle cures will get all the crap out, regardless of what you are told, or what the label says, siphon from the bottom is a must, drain it into plastic tanks on the ground.

Thanks noelm I have drained tank with a drum pump and a length of pvc to get to bottom via filler, as it was parked with the nose up in the shed for so long I would suspect most of the crap will be at the rear of the tank, thing that has me puzzled is does the varnish/sludge when broken down go into a liquid form and sit on the bottom of sample like dirty brown water or I have two problems of the varnish/sludge and water also entering


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Noelm]

Most solid kinds of stuff will just break up and float around getting picked up as you go, and hopefully caught in the filter, nothing in the known world will just make it go away, people say metho, acetone and every proprietary product you can buy, all might work with small amounts of water, but dirt and rubbish is another thing altogether. Even though it's a big job, I would just cut it out, fix it properly once and be done with it, rather than hope everything is OK.

[gazza2006au]

Surely in this day and age you'd think someone has come up with an idea like the Creepy Crawly Swimming Pool Cleaner remember those old tv adds if they made one for fuel and a miniature model itwould work brilliant with a small camera and a small spray hose to dislodge varnish

from what i have seen over the years of varnish in carburetors is it floats around usually the varnish is left behind when a carburetor is left full and it dries out over time

the idea's are endless on how to clean it but i actually think u will never clean it all if u look at jetski fuel tanks that have been around 20-25 years u will see the varnish inside the tanks there is no access to clean it out

i would if i were u siphon the tank completely dry to the bone using a fuel safe vacuum thru the sender unit than your only hope is to keep replacing filters cutting the open if u use the non viewable ones and keep doing it untill you'r in the clear

i most definatly would not be ripping a welded in or glassed over tank just to clean the fuel tank

you could work out what the pro's use possibly a degreaser,carby cleaner, acid or something fill up the tank and suck it dry with the vacuum (fuel safe) keep repeating untill its clean

bigger worry is how the heck is it getting in there in the first place

[Noelm]

Cut it out, fit a plastic underfloor tank, job done.

[Dirtyfuzz]

Ok next question anyone know a decent boat repairer/builder on the sunshine coast,Al at seatrek is too busy building boats for the next few years!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[shakey55]

Can you get a camera in there to have a good look around before cutting out


Sent from my iPhone using Ausfish forums

[gazza2006au]

Those last two pictures look like rust from the petrol stations tanks unavoidable

[Dirtyfuzz]

Those last two pictures look like rust from the petrol stations tanks unavoidable

It feels like old varnish off the bottom of tank, it dissolves as soon as you touch it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dirtyfuzz]

Can you get a camera in there to have a good look around before cutting out


Sent from my iPhone using Ausfish forums

Yeah mate did that but couldn’t see a lot and didn’t want to push camera in too far Incase it got stuck in a baffle,there is a clean spot below the fuel filler where I have most likely loosened the varnish checking levels with a dip stick, all around that is brown


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Chimo]

If the adverts on TV are correct two fills with BP will clean your tank and the rest of the fuel system at the same time. Its got to be true cause its on TV!!!

[Dirtyfuzz]

If the adverts on TV are correct two fills with BP will clean your tank and the rest of the fuel system at the same time. Its got to be true cause its on TV!!!

It must be special stuff as they charge an extra 10c per L up here!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Fed]

I'm with gazza, you need to stop the water getting in before you even think about doing anything else.

[Dirtyfuzz]

Took a sample with the boat dropped all the way down in the front and the sample is perfect, has anyone seen the design of a kevlacat tank, I’m assuming it is in two or 3 compartments separated by baffleshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180721/f0d425b3958fb92370f66822b243a7be.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[gazza2006au]

The larger the tank the more baffles the idea behind having baffles is to stop all the fuel from sloshing side to side and making the boat very unstable especially if your talking 500 litres thats got to be half a ton of movement inside the fuel tanks i can only imagine that would feel like 6-7 blokes walking around on the deck to one side of the boat

u can get a endoscope at a lot of places now i picked one up that attaches to my Samsung phone i just inspected a potential bomb a rusty air compressor tank without the endoscope i wouldn't have known, endoscopes can be picked up cheap i bought mine with a 2 meter cable from Mitre 10 for $2 on special

some more expensive endoscopes like for operations can move and hold bends as it keeps going forward this could be handy for u just tape a rag on the end soak it with metho and go into the tank and rub off the varnish could be time consuming tho but only other other is to cut open your beautiful boat

[Dirtyfuzz]

Bit of an update! With a bit of luck it looks like I might be making a bit of headway, sample I took todayhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/3378b8029848a1054d8d32a0a63683c8.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dignity]

Been away a while and thought you would have had it sorted by now, saw Al the other day and he is flat out. Hopefully the fuel will keep getting better, certainly keep an eye on that fuel filter. Good luck.
Cheers, Sam.

[Dirtyfuzz]

Hope the holiday was relaxing! Good to see Al and Tim are getting a lot of boat orders.
I have a Mr funnel and the other day I did a test on some fresh fuel straight from the servo, clean jerry can and I was shocked at how much dissolved water was in the fresh fuel probably about a tablespoon for 20l I only use the funnel when I can be bothered but I’m definitely going to use it every time now!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dirtyfuzz]

Well I’m still pulling up crap from the bottom of the starboard fuel tank and is doing my head in so both tanks are coming out, the original are stainless but am going to go aluminium with an epoxy coating should save a few dollars and a bit of weight, was thinking of getting a hole drilled from fuel tank bulkhead compartment to the next compartment which is approx 1m towards the transom so any water that gets in under tank area can at least be removed!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181109/3ad8d6c97d2f11f196cf08865a32f219.jpg

[gazza2006au]

Named Dirty Fuzz for a reason? LOL Bummer your still having problems mate u can cut a inspection hole in the tank suck all the shit out than place a cap on the tank one of those that screw on and look like the fuel sender round circles

[Dirtyfuzz]

Named Dirty Fuzz for a reason? LOL Bummer your still having problems mate u can cut a inspection hole in the tank suck all the shit out than place a cap on the tank one of those that screw on and look like the fuel sender round circles

Actually the boat builder I deal with did mention that could cut a hole in the top of the tank and have a look, a relatively simple task as it has two inspection plates at the front an back above the tankhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181109/db5e73172a2a10a7da4c2dcc247ac7d8.jpg
Edit! I won’t have anything to do with cutting a petrol tank, some things should be left to the pros!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[gazza2006au]

Fuzz aluminum doesn't create sparks that i have seen not from a hole saw but maybe the friction of cutting could cause the tank to explode who knows best to get it done and pay the bill, with a port hole they can use a special vacuum to suck all the crap out one that is able to suck up flammable liquid or fumes without igniting it

if you used the wife's vacuum you'd be kicked out of the house lol

[Dirtyfuzz]

Fuzz aluminum doesn't create sparks that i have seen not from a hole saw but maybe the friction of cutting could cause the tank to explode who knows best to get it done and pay the bill, with a port hole they can use a special vacuum to suck all the crap out one that is able to suck up flammable liquid or fumes without igniting it

if you used the wife's vacuum you'd be kicked out of the house lol

It’s stainless


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BigE]

Hope the holiday was relaxing! Good to see Al and Tim are getting a lot of boat orders.
I have a Mr funnel and the other day I did a test on some fresh fuel straight from the servo, clean jerry can and I was shocked at how much dissolved water was in the fresh fuel probably about a tablespoon for 20l I only use the funnel when I can be bothered but I’m definitely going to use it every time now!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a Mr Funnel as well good bit of kit , i am always amazed at the crap and water in servo fuel that it picks up.
best $50 i have spent

BigE

[Dirtyfuzz]

Bit of an update! Fuel tank is getting removed this week and hopefully Ark marine can give me a quick turn around, they believe they may have a 180l tank in stock that will fit but i’ll need to take the old tank down to them to measure up and check, only issue is it may be aluminium and the tank coming out is stainless which doesn’t worry me as long as they weigh the same!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Noelm]

What about a "plastic" tank, there is lots of sizes to choose from for under floor applications, never worry about rust or corrosion again.

[ranmar850]

Try this before you cut the tank out. I've found it to be the easiest way to drain a tank, and it tends to force the crap out as well.

There are two ways to transfer liquid from any vessel. Well, three, if you count siphoning. You can suck it out via a pump, or force it out via pressure. I find the pressure transfer idea works well. I'm assuming the fuel pickup will be at the rear of the tank, only logical place to put it on a boat. Have the front jacked well up to get all the stuff in the bottom of the tank down the back. Disconnect the fuel line from the motor, and put it into a container, size dependant on how much fuel you want to pump through. Find your breathers for the tank. If there is only one, easy, use that. More than one you need to block the extra off, jam a bolt in it or kink it with a cable tie. Put a tapered air nozzle into the unblocked breather and introduce a little pressure. Don't overdo it, you only need enough to get the fuel flowing. Keep an eye on your filler hose, if it's starting to look like a balloon, too much pressure ;) I find the common tapered type you use for general blowing duties works fine. I assume you have water separator type filters with a clear glass already fitted. You will be blowing the fuel through these, so you should see the water and crap building up in the bottom. If the pickup is right up the back, you should be able to competely clear the tank this way, and get an idea just how much rubbish you are actually passing. Keep adding pressure as the flow slows down. If you run dry, let the tank sit for a bit after you add more fuel, to allow the water to settle before you restart.

You should get to the point of having the separator glass clear as you run fuel through it. Now, this is obviously a static test--fill it up and take it to sea, and any crust on the walls of the tank might start to be shaken loose. The filter should be able to deal with this, just check it after every trip for a while, before you go to the drastic length of cutting up the deck and replacing the tank.

I used to do this twice a year with a boat that had a lot of use--150 litre underfloor tank, with no fuel gauge, and an old motor with no ECM for checking fuel flow. I fitted a Lowrance fuel flow setup ( LMF-200?), but I could not get it any better than 90% accurate, regardless of calibration. It did over-estimate fuel flow, so I always had more than I thought, so I used to completely drain and zero twice a year using this method.

[Dirtyfuzz]

What about a "plastic" tank, there is lots of sizes to choose from for under floor applications, never worry about rust or corrosion again.

Did think of a plastic tank but as I’m only replacing the starboard side I had concerns of the weight difference on each side and changing the ride and stability!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dirtyfuzz]

Try this before you cut the tank out. I've found it to be the easiest way to drain a tank, and it tends to force the crap out as well.

There are two ways to transfer liquid from any vessel. Well, three, if you count siphoning. You can suck it out via a pump, or force it out via pressure. I find the pressure transfer idea works well. I'm assuming the fuel pickup will be at the rear of the tank, only logical place to put it on a boat. Have the front jacked well up to get all the stuff in the bottom of the tank down the back. Disconnect the fuel line from the motor, and put it into a container, size dependant on how much fuel you want to pump through. Find your breathers for the tank. If there is only one, easy, use that. More than one you need to block the extra off, jam a bolt in it or kink it with a cable tie. Put a tapered air nozzle into the unblocked breather and introduce a little pressure. Don't overdo it, you only need enough to get the fuel flowing. Keep an eye on your filler hose, if it's starting to look like a balloon, too much pressure ;) I find the common tapered type you use for general blowing duties works fine. I assume you have water separator type filters with a clear glass already fitted. You will be blowing the fuel through these, so you should see the water and crap building up in the bottom. If the pickup is right up the back, you should be able to competely clear the tank this way, and get an idea just how much rubbish you are actually passing. Keep adding pressure as the flow slows down. If you run dry, let the tank sit for a bit after you add more fuel, to allow the water to settle before you restart.

You should get to the point of having the separator glass clear as you run fuel through it. Now, this is obviously a static test--fill it up and take it to sea, and any crust on the walls of the tank might start to be shaken loose. The filter should be able to deal with this, just check it after every trip for a while, before you go to the drastic length of cutting up the deck and replacing the tank.

I used to do this twice a year with a boat that had a lot of use--150 litre underfloor tank, with no fuel gauge, and an old motor with no ECM for checking fuel flow. I fitted a Lowrance fuel flow setup ( LMF-200?), but I could not get it any better than 90% accurate, regardless of calibration. It did over-estimate fuel flow, so I always had more than I thought, so I used to completely drain and zero twice a year using this method.

Thanks ranmar! There is a lot of water getting into the tank aswell, all fittings and connections have been replaced so I’m stuffed if I know where it’s coming from, the port tank is perfect so there is an issue regardlesshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190130/5d482deee3d0b26936ce77b1eed05e4b.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Noelm]

Did think of a plastic tank but as I’m only replacing the starboard side I had concerns of the weight difference on each side and changing the ride and stability!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As long as it's the same capacity (or close) it will be fine.

[ranmar850]

Thanks ranmar! There is a lot of water getting into the tank aswell, all fittings and connections have been replaced so I’m stuffed if I know where it’s coming from, the port tank is perfect so there is an issue regardlesshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190130/5d482deee3d0b26936ce77b1eed05e4b.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yuk. If your pickups aren't right on the very bottom, at lowest point, it can be hard to drain water. You'll run into the school of thought that says you shouldn't have your pickups at the lowest point because you will pick up crap, but IMO, that just doesn't work with boats. Contents are always getting mixed up by motion, so you are better off having the pickup at the lowest point, at the back, so you can get every last bit out, and not have any water settle when you have it on the trailer.

[Dirtyfuzz]

I’ve been pumping it out with a manual vane drum pump with a Flexi hose connected to it, I’ve been doing this for two years now hence I’ve given up the though it will miraculously come clean!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Fed]

Deck filler skin fittings are often overlooked, rain/wash water sneaks under the fitting then lays in the top of the clamped on filler hose then straight to the tank.
Don't know if it applies to you though dirtyfuzz.

[Dirtyfuzz]

Deck filler skin fittings are often overlooked, rain/wash water sneaks under the fitting then lays in the top of the clamped on filler hose then straight to the tank.
Don't know if it applies to you though dirtyfuzz.

All the bits have been replaced( fuel fillers,pipes etc) And double clamped everything with no difference, not sure if all the old fuel as it breaks down into a liquid form can suck the water in, its just interesting that the port tank I have no issue with dirty fuel and has never had any water accumulate in the sight glass, will be keen to see what the tank looks like when it comes out!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Noelm]

It won't be pretty I can tell you, been there and done that.

[Fed]

You must have overlooked something dirtyfuzz, there's no way I'd pull or replace the tank without first finding where the water was coming from.

Water leaks are sneaky, I've seen them defying gravity and run along the underside of a gunnel from an unsealed rod holder to the underside of a fuel filler.

Water on the top of the tank, floor sealed? Breather fitting? It has to come from somewhere mate.

[Dirtyfuzz]

It won't be pretty I can tell you, been there and done that.

Yeah I can imagine, if all the flushing I have done and still coming out like the posted photo I’m sure I will be thinking why did I just waste 2 years and countless litres of fuel not to mention the space 4x45l reserve tanks take up on the deck,but like panning for gold, the next flush will hopefully be the one! Ah well “bring out another thousand” I got the boat at a good price and will still be a mile in front with the refurb!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dirtyfuzz]

You must have overlooked something dirtyfuzz, there's no way I'd pull or replace the tank without first finding where the water was coming from.

Water leaks are sneaky, I've seen them defying gravity and run along the underside of a gunnel from an unsealed rod holder to the underside of a fuel filler.

Water on the top of the tank, floor sealed? Breather fitting? It has to come from somewhere mate.

The only way I can see it getting in is via a crack in the stainless filler tube or suction line above the deck or where it’s welded on below the deck Either way the tank and floor still has to come up, even if water is getting in by sitting on top of the tank, it must mean that there are holes or cracks and again the deck and tanks will need to be removed to access, I have gone over everything a hundred times still to no avail! Oh and the tank has two spin outs above for inspection and appears very dry! I have poked a cable tie with cloth down all sides of the tank through the spin out and it’s dry also!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Fed]

Top of the tank being dry is great and in my mind all the more reason to keep looking.
Having said that, you have eyes on it & you know exactly what you've done & checked whereas I'm only typing on a computer.

Both the filler & breather skin fittings bedding in with goop?

Love to see you kick a goal without pulling the tank, not even sure if pulling the tank will solve the mystery.

[Noelm]

It's pretty common for old stainless tanks to crack around welded fittings, the filler is a prime suspect, as is the breather, I guess the breather has a loop up at the top?, the problem is not just the water, but all the rusty rubbish that forms from having water in the tank.

[stevej]

also condensation can build up over time as well
you have a half empty tank which sucks in 100l of warm air it cools forms condensation that is trapped by the same loop that prevents water entering the breather , add 20 years of this and litres of water can form

also add in spray which i ssucked in as your using the boat, loop or not as a emptying tank acts like a vacum cleaner

if the tanks are every left empty the remaining fuel crystalises all over the insides of the tank and will slowly redissolve with fuel making it look brown for years to come

dealing with historic car fuel tanks i now know you cant clean a fuel tank in place and is a labour intensive process needing chemical and mechanical cleaners
i epoxy line all my old car fuel tanks now

[Dirtyfuzz]

Top of the tank being dry is great and in my mind all the more reason to keep looking.
Having said that, you have eyes on it & you know exactly what you've done & checked whereas I'm only typing on a computer.

Both the filler & breather skin fittings bedding in with goop?

Love to see you kick a goal without pulling the tank, not even sure if pulling the tank will solve the mystery.
Nah it’s coming out, I’ve wasted too much time on it, If it was only a water issue I could deal with but I don’t think the tank will ever be cleaned properly as there is too much crap in it and if these motors decide to snuff it then I’m left with a boat that I can’t use anyway until the tank issue is rectified before a Repower, the guy I have doing it is the same guy who modified the 6.2 mould to be the 2400 and worked st kevlacat for 20 years and also powercat so I’m pretty confident he will do a good job for me and with the Info he has given me is the main reason I’m cutting my losses!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Fed]

I hope it all goes smoothly for you, let us know eh?

[Dirtyfuzz]

So do I and hope there are no surprises, the family has owned this boat since new and has been sitting in the shed in Mackay used as a storage container for the last 20 odd years but anything could happen!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[blacklab]

Hi Dirtyfuzz, Sorry for your issues.
Many years ago I had a stainless tank that basically gave up, I pulled it out and couldn't believe the deterioration, A mate of mine made me another as he worked in the industry,,,, anyways, he actually cut it open somehow, I was mortified at the crud and shear "corrosion- slurry- come crap that was in that tank. He reconned that it had crackes in it for some time, it was the smell that finally alerted to me I had an issue.
Anyway, currently on my build, I've put a Sant marine plastic tank in, goodluck, I know how frustrating these issues are

Col

[Dirtyfuzz]

Well the Stainless Fuel tank is out and has holes in the bottom, apparently it looks like it’s been eaten by a corrosive substance from the inside maybe a reaction to the old fuel and condensation, Good News i guess is that everything was so over engineered that everything else structurally is fine with no signs of rotting etc, The Tank was such a tight fit to get out that Ark Marine will have to make it 10mm shorter to get it back in, going to go down the epoxy coated aluminium tank and the extra money saved can go towards cutting in a walkthrough transom!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[stevej]

stainless isnt something that lasts forever

salt sand detergents oils will all eat it out eventually silcons used to mount them even water is corrosive.

[billfisher]

Did they tell you what thickness of alloy they are using? You want at least 4mm to avoid problems.

[Dirtyfuzz]

Did they tell you what thickness of alloy they are using? You want at least 4mm to avoid problems.

Good question mate I’ll ask tomorrow! Website states “Commercial Quality 5052 or 5083, 3 and 4mm Marine Grade Alloy Built To Survey Requirements if Necessary” I’ll insist on 4mm


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dirtyfuzz]

Got the price back to make tanks, epoxy coated 5083 4mm alloy $1500 or stainless $2150 so might go the alloy, thinking of adding a filler cap to the top of the tank below the inspection port but not sure!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[blacklab]

Sounds exactly like what happened to my S/S tank, as mentioned previously.
I looked at aluminium, got all the correct ways to fit etc, but, I thought why !!!
as mentioned, I have one of those sant marine tanks in now, never have to worry about degradation again !
worth considering ?

Col

[Dirtyfuzz]

Sounds exactly like what happened to my S/S tank, as mentioned previously.
I looked at aluminium, got all the correct ways to fit etc, but, I thought why !!!
as mentioned, I have one of those sant marine tanks in now, never have to worry about degradation again !
worth considering ?

Col

It would take a lot of reconfiguring to fit a tank that is different to what has come out due to the room constraints between the bulk heads


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[billfisher]

I got a Sant Marine tank to replace my aluminium underfloor tank. I had to modify the compartment and lost a fair bit of capacity but i did the work myself and it only cost $300 for the tank. I just use a carry tanks for reserve and the last leg home and am happy not to worry about corrosion and welds cracking.

[EdBerg]

If you are going to get a ally tank built,see if it is possible to get a drainage tap with a hose in the bottom of it, just in case you have to empty the tank you can just open the tap and let the fuel drain out taking any crud with it. Maybe push the hose out through a transom bung hole through to a container.

Just an idea.

[Dirtyfuzz]

If you are going to get a ally tank built,see if it is possible to get a drainage tap with a hose in the bottom of it, just in case you have to empty the tank you can just open the tap and let the fuel drain out taking any crud with it. Maybe push the hose out through a transom bung hole through to a container.

Just an idea.

Cheers mate, as it’s a sealed deck with separate sealed bulkheads it would be a massive job involving drilling through the bulkheads and then would have to drill through the hull for it to drain!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dirtyfuzz]

I got a Sant Marine tank to replace my aluminium underfloor tank. I had to modify the compartment and lost a fair bit of capacity but i did the work myself and it only cost $300 for the tank. I just use a carry tanks for reserve and the last leg home and am happy not to worry about corrosion and welds cracking.

Thanks mate yeah that was the issue I faced going a plastic tank, i Need as much capacity as I can get with the main tanks, was even contemplating going bigger but weight is a factor!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Fed]

Did you figure out where the water came from?

[Noelm]

I think the issue is if you get water in there, it's there forever, unless you find a way to get it all out, using the pick up won't work because it's not on the bottom, and most tanks don't have access, so, unless you remove the water, and it comes back, you probably don't have an external leak, but, it's always good practice to eliminate any possible water entry points. You need to remember if you are getting water in your separating filter, you have probably 50mm of water in the bottom of your tank, and depending on the bottom area of the tank, that's a lot of water, over time, it just starts to rust the tank and your problems are getting bigger by the day.

[Fed]

Why didn't the fuel leak out of the holes in the bottom of the tank?

Not trying to be pedantic it's just that I spent most of my working life grilling employees to avoid free call-backs.

[Dirtyfuzz]

Why didn't the fuel leak out of the holes in the bottom of the tank?

Not trying to be pedantic it's just that I spent most of my working life grilling employees to avoid free call-backs.

Sorry I was a bit vague saying it was on the bottom, the corroded cracks/holes are along a weld near the bottom, I’m at work so havn’t seen it myself, but the holes apparently are very noticeable, how is water getting in? Don’t know maybe some getting in from the inspection ports above the tank and running down the side of the tank and going into cracks/holes! Anyone’s guess! I’m getting a hole drilled from the tank bulkheads and Into the second last compartment and fit a bung, so if any water gets in under the tank at least I can remove it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dirtyfuzz]

Finally got around to taking a few photos of the fuel tank and it’s definitely cracking and also some pitting, I’d say all the orange gunk coming out of fuel is actually rust, new tank goes in tomorrow https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190214/7f5bd1e74ad0034955d26e5de84ecb8e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190214/33afe157a3c0d73317d422bf18bfd94d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190214/49704bc7ea001c58935d796c57f19a23.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190214/164bbebeff5fba5401b51a857cb98672.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[blacklab]

Hi Dirtyfuzz, That sure does look familiar.
It really looks like toast, with the new tank in, your problems should be over.

Col

[Dirtyfuzz]

New tank ready to go in! Epoxy coated 5083 4mm alloyhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190214/d65d2afae31adb6ad8911aa0e88837a2.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Fed]

The old tank looks like it has a tide mark was there any water in the coffin?

[Dirtyfuzz]

Ole mate reckons it was dry when he pulled the tank out but does look like a water line, was foam filled around the tank which could have possibly been holding water against it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dirtyfuzz]

Tanks back in, and found something odd, an extra bulkhead with no spin out above it, removed the two spin out above the fuel tank as were useless anyway and drilled a hole from tank bulkheads into the new found bulkhead and fitted the old spin outs above it, did the same to the other side aswell,price came in $1500 cheaper due to no nasty surprises so quickly used that cash up with a walk through transomhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190227/de1d271073428993573bf049b369a48d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190227/3375feec6ed22382f3face9e742c7d54.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190227/91ef553e76ed9e552ca29987b332e1e4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190227/f3abb461a841b37d9a131c28db43562f.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dirtyfuzz]

Thought I’d just post up the finished walk through transom, Lenny Greaves in Yandina did all the tank and fibreglass work and Tim from Seatrek did all the stainlesshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190425/fd4ff00bbe93f04d83587620d3aca7d0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190425/d16d9f2bb2f0e28fb2faa1600cfa3ac2.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Steve villani]

Looks mint [emoji106][emoji106]

Smile, it confuses people [emoji2]