New boat coming- Caribbean Reef Runner 6.4

[ranmar850]

After a lot of soul searching, and looking at finances, I've bitten the bullet and put a new boat on order. I've just turned 65, have a little super, and am still working, still fishing hard. realistically, there is no point in putting this off--I want to fish hard, health allowing, for as long as I can. I like to chase billfish on my annual pilgrimage north, and, after snagging a 180kg Blue out of Exmouth late last year on someone elses's boat, realised I can just do the 9 hour run up from home and do it again. You can't take it with you.
My current boat is a 5.65m Swiftcraft Dominator. It's a great little boat--I bought it from the original owner, who was just not using it , due to age. Spent a fair bit of money and time bringing it up to date, and caught a lgood variety of fish in the less than 3 years I have owned it. Don't look for any Red Emperor, I'm not a bottom basher;) But plenty of good reef species there caught floating boats down, and I will actually do a bit of sinker bashing at home, offshore, with the new rig--no shortage of Reds out there nowadays. Certainly a more comfortable boat than the 600 Quintrex CC it replaced. Got me my first marlin, a 130kg Black, and lots besides. I did a little reminiscing on our WA forum, in a thread called "the Dominator Retrospective http://fishwrecked.com/forum/dominator-retrospective-updated-new-species Have a look at it for some good WA fish.
I can probably blame Darren253 for all thishttp://fishwrecked.com/sites/all/libraries/fckeditor/editor/images/smiley/msn/teeth_smile.gif, because it was his build thread that really got me thinking. That, and the desire to cover more sea miles than I could reasonably ask the Dominator to do in comfort. So the idea took shape, my impending 65th birthday meant I could dip into a bit of super, and here we are. The boat and trailer is on order, the outboard has been paid for. I was lucky to snag a 150 4s Mercury on the last day of the special which finished in December, at a considerable saving over the RRP. Aftergoing for a run on Darren's, the performance is much more than adequate, I can't find a single person on the net with anything but praise, and the simple low-stressed big block design should keep long-term ownership costs down. The motor will be hung by Midwest Marine, Mercury agents in Geraldton, after I have finished my instal work on everything else. The bluetooth module to enable you to record and monitor performance figures and codes on your phone was thrown in with the deal.
Currently awaiting a quote on a good electronics setup. I'm looking at Raymarine gear, consisting of a Axiom 9RVX Pro, and an Axiom 7 RV. Reason for the smaller one is that I can't quite get a 9RVX and a 9RV side by side on the dash. This will give me the ability to run a 1kw transducer with no extra modules, and the 7 will be dedicated as a chartplotter, with maybe a sidebar of engine info.
Transducer looks like being a thru-hull B175M with tilted element, as the RV-100 already has high chirp, as well as the sidescan/downscan/3D functions with the stabilisation built in. These are a transom mount, and will likely be mounted on a sliding bracket to keep it out of the wway when required. I'm also going for an autopilot, probably the Raymarine EV-100.
An electric capstan will be mounted on a removable bracket, with a stainless tipper, and, as I ended up selling my Maxwell HRC-6FF with the old boat, I'll likely go for a Lonestar GX2, as the instal on the drums on these hulls is far easier than it would have been on my old boat.
This will all be powered by a dual battery setup, with VSR and parallelling switch. A good size House electrical feed of 13.2mm2 will run to a main panel to feed all the goodies without voltage drop. The two winches will be powered separately.
As for the hull,I'm opting for the walkthrough transom, not cheap, but I've had enough of climbing over transoms. One boarding platform with underslung telescopic ladder will be fitted. The no-cost raised hardtop option is being taken up, and it will be fitted with two Bowmar hatches for ventilation. Under the passenger seat, there will be the standard storage box, but, on the helm side, I'm fitting a stainless seat support bracket to fit an icebox under. My reasoning for fitting it under the helm seat is that when you are trolling for billfish with 3 on board, the two observers will have a seat each. I'll make the box myself, fitted with a lid that can open without pulling the box out of position. The long 1440mm long underfloor space which can be opened up when you remove the little divider will do for day tripping, and the big madfish bag may become redundant. We'll see how it goes for holding ice. A large L&R Boatlatch has been scored courtesy of the Fishwrecked economy. On the subject of trailers, I have opted for a larger one than normally supplied,C-channel, as the whole weight thing would be decidedly iffy for going away, IMO--going for a 2400kg Easytow, with breakaway brakes.
All the usual hull fruit will be added, such as washdown, live bait tank, and fresh water with its own pump. LED lighting for under gunwhales has been ordered, and overhead LED worklights and an LED spotlight are being decided on. Rod holders in trolling positions will be heavy duty, with a couple of slimlines added for storage and downrigger duties. I'm sticking with the standard non-skid deck for now--my reasoning is that I'll give it a go, as retrofitting a covering won't be any harder than doing it first up. I will fit a couple of bits of Z-tread or the like on the boarding platform and walkthrough if they look slippery. But certainly no carpet. Full bunk infills for those overnighters, but no built-in toilet. After a lot of thinking, I came to the conclusion that, while they may be a winner for day tripping, they would be bloody useless for overnighting--who wants to pull the bed up to get to the dunny in the middle of the night? Our current porta-potty will continue to do duty, and at least we have a door you can close.
4.5 m outriggers are planned, still deciding on the form they will take, but a kiwi-made set by Reel Rods, hardtop mounted , has taken my fancy. I'll just need to confirm the hardtop will be strong enough.
Bennet trim tabs are being fitted by Mansfields, as is the rocket launcher ,the walk-through transom, the boat latch, and the s/sbait board. All the rest will be my work. Our place will start looking like xmas at the post office over the next month as all the orders start arriving.http://fishwrecked.com/sites/all/libraries/fckeditor/editor/images/smiley/msn/regular_smile.gif
I intend to do it once, and do it right.

[seastrength]

After a lot of soul searching, and looking at finances, I've bitten the bullet and put a new boat on order. I've just turned 65, have a little super, and am still working, still fishing hard. realistically, there is no point in putting this off--I want to fish hard, health allowing, for as long as I can. I like to chase billfish on my annual pilgrimage north, and, after snagging a 180kg Blue out of Exmouth late last year on someone elses's boat, realised I can just do the 9 hour run up from home and do it again. You can't take it with you.
My current boat is a 5.65m Swiftcraft Dominator. It's a great little boat--I bought it from the original owner, who was just not using it , due to age. Spent a fair bit of money and time bringing it up to date, and caught a lgood variety of fish in the less than 3 years I have owned it. Don't look for any Red Emperor, I'm not a bottom basher;) But plenty of good reef species there caught floating boats down, and I will actually do a bit of sinker bashing at home, offshore, with the new rig--no shortage of Reds out there nowadays. Certainly a more comfortable boat than the 600 Quintrex CC it replaced. Got me my first marlin, a 130kg Black, and lots besides. I did a little reminiscing on our WA forum, in a thread called "the Dominator Retrospective http://fishwrecked.com/forum/dominator-retrospective-updated-new-species Have a look at it for some good WA fish.
I can probably blame Darren253 for all thishttp://fishwrecked.com/sites/all/libraries/fckeditor/editor/images/smiley/msn/teeth_smile.gif, because it was his build thread that really got me thinking. That, and the desire to cover more sea miles than I could reasonably ask the Dominator to do in comfort. So the idea took shape, my impending 65th birthday meant I could dip into a bit of super, and here we are. The boat and trailer is on order, the outboard has been paid for. I was lucky to snag a 150 4s Mercury on the last day of the special which finished in December, at a considerable saving over the RRP. Aftergoing for a run on Darren's, the performance is much more than adequate, I can't find a single person on the net with anything but praise, and the simple low-stressed big block design should keep long-term ownership costs down. The motor will be hung by Midwest Marine, Mercury agents in Geraldton, after I have finished my instal work on everything else. The bluetooth module to enable you to record and monitor performance figures and codes on your phone was thrown in with the deal.
Currently awaiting a quote on a good electronics setup. I'm looking at Raymarine gear, consisting of a Axiom 9RVX Pro, and an Axiom 7 RV. Reason for the smaller one is that I can't quite get a 9RVX and a 9RV side by side on the dash. This will give me the ability to run a 1kw transducer with no extra modules, and the 7 will be dedicated as a chartplotter, with maybe a sidebar of engine info.
Transducer looks like being a thru-hull B175M with tilted element, as the RV-100 already has high chirp, as well as the sidescan/downscan/3D functions with the stabilisation built in. These are a transom mount, and will likely be mounted on a sliding bracket to keep it out of the wway when required. I'm also going for an autopilot, probably the Raymarine EV-100.
An electric capstan will be mounted on a removable bracket, with a stainless tipper, and, as I ended up selling my Maxwell HRC-6FF with the old boat, I'll likely go for a Lonestar GX2, as the instal on the drums on these hulls is far easier than it would have been on my old boat.
This will all be powered by a dual battery setup, with VSR and parallelling switch. A good size House electrical feed of 13.2mm2 will run to a main panel to feed all the goodies without voltage drop. The two winches will be powered separately.
As for the hull,I'm opting for the walkthrough transom, not cheap, but I've had enough of climbing over transoms. One boarding platform with underslung telescopic ladder will be fitted. The no-cost raised hardtop option is being taken up, and it will be fitted with two Bowmar hatches for ventilation. Under the passenger seat, there will be the standard storage box, but, on the helm side, I'm fitting a stainless seat support bracket to fit an icebox under. My reasoning for fitting it under the helm seat is that when you are trolling for billfish with 3 on board, the two observers will have a seat each. I'll make the box myself, fitted with a lid that can open without pulling the box out of position. The long 1440mm long underfloor space which can be opened up when you remove the little divider will do for day tripping, and the big madfish bag may become redundant. We'll see how it goes for holding ice. A large L&R Boatlatch has been scored courtesy of the Fishwrecked economy. On the subject of trailers, I have opted for a larger one than normally supplied,C-channel, as the whole weight thing would be decidedly iffy for going away, IMO--going for a 2400kg Easytow, with breakaway brakes.
All the usual hull fruit will be added, such as washdown, live bait tank, and fresh water with its own pump. LED lighting for under gunwhales has been ordered, and overhead LED worklights and an LED spotlight are being decided on. Rod holders in trolling positions will be heavy duty, with a couple of slimlines added for storage and downrigger duties. I'm sticking with the standard non-skid deck for now--my reasoning is that I'll give it a go, as retrofitting a covering won't be any harder than doing it first up. I will fit a couple of bits of Z-tread or the like on the boarding platform and walkthrough if they look slippery. But certainly no carpet. Full bunk infills for those overnighters, but no built-in toilet. After a lot of thinking, I came to the conclusion that, while they may be a winner for day tripping, they would be bloody useless for overnighting--who wants to pull the bed up to get to the dunny in the middle of the night? Our current porta-potty will continue to do duty, and at least we have a door you can close.
4.5 m outriggers are planned, still deciding on the form they will take, but a kiwi-made set by Reel Rods, hardtop mounted , has taken my fancy. I'll just need to confirm the hardtop will be strong enough.
Bennet trim tabs are being fitted by Mansfields, as is the rocket launcher ,the walk-through transom, the boat latch, and the s/sbait board. All the rest will be my work. Our place will start looking like xmas at the post office over the next month as all the orders start arriving.http://fishwrecked.com/sites/all/libraries/fckeditor/editor/images/smiley/msn/regular_smile.gif
I intend to do it once, and do it right.Great read ranmar850. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I am in a similar position as I turn 64 this year and wonder how I can set myself up for retirement fishing. Are you planning to launch and retrieve solo or will you have reliable crew to help? This is a game changer for me as I will be solo most of the time. Will be interested to see the final package. Hope you get many years of well deserved enjoyment from this decision. SS

Sent from my LG-H815 using Ausfish mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=91595)

[ranmar850]

Advancing age get's you thinking doesn't it-or should. I have always had boats I can launch and retrieve solo, up to 6m, and do so often. This one should actually be easier, as I have bought an L&R boatlatch, so should be able to drive on/off, with the trailer I am getting. Haven't done drive-on before, have never had a trailer designed for it. In fact, I've been a critic of it at our local ramp, as it has dug holes in the sand off the end of the concrete block matting they use. So now, if I want to do it, I'll just have to STFU:-[
The Perth agent has confirmed that the hardtop, while rated for fitting a dinghy rack and able to be walked on, will need reinforcing for T-Top outriggers, due to the localised loading. No big deal or expense to do it.

[chocolatemoose]

Sounds like it will be a sensational peice of kit mate
i Frequent the Caribbean factory "as it is 5 minuites from my house" and known the Spooner family and builders for a while. they build a very no nonesnese hardcore oldschool boat. and judging by how much is done in house, craftmanship is still something they pride.
I sponsor a charity here in victoria called Introfish who recently took ownership of a Caribbean Intruder "baby brother of yours" powered by the 150merc. cant go wrong. id suggest if you can from your dealer. grab an Active Trim module.
Bennett trim tabs are groovy and smooth. "a bit more CAN go wrong with them vs. Interceptors/lectrotab/lencos etc" but they are well priced and smooth.
that fishwreked crew are a tight bunch of people too!
Im very excited for your project :) If you need any help close to the factory. more than happy:)

Moose

[ranmar850]

Yeah, go in and tell them to pour some 2-pac insulation in around the in-floor storage;). Can't be done apparently, but I get the impression that there just isn't enough space around the glass compartment for insulation to make any difference. I'd love to get over there and have a look, but not likely.
For those who haven't picked up on it, Moose is supplying all the electronics suite as described in the first post, with the addition of an external GPS aerial.

[fishingrod]

Moose is good. He knows his gear. Purchased a Garmin and Axiom from him last year.

Sent from my Lenovo TB3-710F using Ausfish mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=91595)

[myusernam]

His the axiom side imaging in deep rough water going?

[fishingrod]

His the axiom side imaging in deep rough water going?
If the question was for me, I can't comment as I'm only using the Axiom for mapping and AIS at the moment.

[Marchy001]

I had my Axiom out in 65-75m the other day and side scan was great. 3D is good but I’m still working out what it actually tells me and I’m sure in time I’ll use 3D more.
Not 100% sure but I think I had it set on 100m or 120m either side of the boat and it was reading well enough to decipher rock and bottom changes at those ranges very clearly. 3D worked well too but a hell of a lot of data for my simple brain to pull off the screen and found side scan easier.

[ranmar850]

Wow, that's interesting. I really didn't think side scan would be much value in any depth in the ocean--more a rivers and lakes thing.

[Marchy001]

I was surprised too. Coming from Lowrance LSSHD which ran out of legs somewhere around 20m I didn’t expect it to work at that depth either.

[Marchy001]

Took some screen shots off goldy today while trolling at 7-8knots. The grainy appearance disappears at slower speeds but I was Fishing not on a photo shoot so just snapped while trolling. ;) This was wide of the goldy around the 36’s very quiet day with minimal bait to be found so just took pics of bottom changes etc.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180126/b9d0dcca3f2eea456dca101866ebe51a.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180126/4155016b05862539574dd5dbc89dae66.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180126/a761715650d53ef14109d6b40075068a.jpg

This last one was deeper but just plain old flat bottom as I came off the plane hence half the pic being crappy
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180126/24d54058089ad8d5fcb5b2f51c70fcfa.jpg

[ranmar850]

The goodies box is filling up, the bloke at the local post office probably thinks I'm a drug dealer. Custom switch panel from New Wire Marine--I'm sure we must do this in Australia, but there's nothing obvious on the net.:'( Hard wired remote control spotlight also from US, Golight G-2020. Actually found someone who will ship at a good total price. The Tuffwinch 240HC arrived today, solid-looking piece of kit. I don't have any delivery updates, but should be getting something firmer in around two weeks from now.
The outboard and ancillaries are at the dealer now.

[chocolatemoose]

Nice choice on the New Wire.. we have used them in the past. having solid nice switches is great!

[chocolatemoose]

116709 heres some more of your goodies :P

[ranmar850]

Still awaiting delivery. Should have a firm date sometime this week- likely delivery towards end of next week. Caribbean had a nice long xmas break, I'm told.:-?.. Some more decision have been made in the meantime. The trailer ended up going to 2.7tonne rating, to get load sharing suspension and 14" wheels. For outriggers, I've ordered Rupp Topgun Revolutions--these operate through the hardtop, and are deployed without leaving the cab. Not cheap, but they are rated as the best. The Taco's of similar design are a bit cheaper, but they are alloy bodied. It turned out that the kiwi ones which took my fancy were actually on Rupp bases.
An EV-100 Raymarine auto pilot was added to the electronics, and the outboard will have the Merc Eco gauge, the all-in-one digital which also had the NMEA 200 gateway built in. A bit less real estate taken up on the dash than the VV4. Shurflo has been bought for the deckwash. A s/s frame for the helm seat was purchased--I originally intended to have a self-built icebox with split lid and cushion on it, for someone sitting behind the skipper watching the trolling spread, with the option of putting a fridge in there for extended trips. Then i decided it was just cheaper and easier to build a fibreglass fridge, instead of just an icebox. and buy a fridge. So when I get the frame fitted to the boat, I can work out the dimensions and build it. There will be no need for a slide if I do the split lid right, and I'll have a least 40 litres of fridge/freezer.

[chocolatemoose]

i can testify to the awesomeness of having a good fridge on board.. whilst the oldschool in me still has a soft spot for reaching into a esky of slushy cold chunky ice for a cold can...it does feel very nice not having to worry about buying "fgor some crazy reason" ever more expensive bags of ice just for a trip out..

Summer = 2 bags of ice a day for say 3 weeks away. thats about $200 worth of ice where i head off too. fridge pays for itself pretty quick :D

Moose

[ranmar850]

She has arrived in Perth. After what seemed like forever, it is in the dealers' shipwrights shop, having some work done before I take delivery to do the rest. it is fitted with the n-cost raised hardtop option--plenty of headroom under there now.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-trHxj9L/0/7e13c648/XL/20180328_110841-XL.jpg


I am having a transom door cut in--Caribbean don't offer this as a factory option, but mansfields have a mould for them now, and cut them in themselves.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-Rv2DF2H/0/c7af874e/XL/20180328_114603-XL.jpg


It will be ready for me to tow home when I get in from work next week--just a short detour to a nearby sign shop to have the graphics applied to the side.

[ranmar850]

In the last picture you can see another one ready to go out the door. Fitted with a 150 Merc, same as mine, Bennet tabs, VV4, Axiom 9 RV with RV-100 transducer, deckwash pump, Fusion stereo, 2 radios, polished s/s rocket launcher, raised hardtop , side clears and standard trailer--the full price breakdown was stuck to the window, and it was out the door for under $90K. And remember, anything built over east and sold in WA has at least $4,400 freight on top of what you would pay in Melbourne.. Unbeatable value for a solid 6.4 m boat with impeccable sea manners.

[ranmar850]

Well, she's home. Picked it up in Perth late yesterday afternoon after a delay with my ute tailights when I hooked up, took a couple of hours to fix, so I did 200 k's then packed it in for the night. Checked everything over int he morning, upped the trailer tire pressures, towing exceptionally well. here it is 150 k's from home.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-DThMNvP/0/3349c9e3/X2/20180407_110357-X2.jpg


Quick bite of lunch when I got home, then into it. No room at all between the back of the tank and the transom, the B175M is a very neat fit. got the hole cut, epoxy seal the edge, cut in the water intake and wet bond it in, probably the worst job of the whole boat mostly done.

[chocolatemoose]

Congradulations mate, thats looking like a real swish boat there. higher windows suit well :)

[ranmar850]

Not looking pretty at the moment, at least down the stern area. Got the B175M installation finished today. Thank you Caribbean for giving me , according to the tank plate, 234 litres of fuel, but I'd gladly drop just a little to have the back of the tank another 20mm forward. The big spacer they supply with the xducer is sitting right up against the tabbed part of the hull where it tapers up into the transom, and I spent an hour shaping it so everything sat flat and sealed well ( I hope). I do appear to have it sitting between two stakes, at the theoretically best position.
I spent the first half of the day fitting all the rod and cup/sinker/jig holders, because otherwise I'd be dodging installed wiring when I drilled them-rather run the wiring around them later. Deckwash pump mounted and plumbed, finish the bilge pump plumbing first up tomorrow , then onto the battery installation.
Then, onto the Raymarine gear and the panel--that's the stuff I'm looking forward to, when I can get away from the plumbing. I have to have it seaworthy by Wednesday lunchtime so I can tow it 150 k's down to the outboard installer. It will be ready for seatrials when I get back from work Friday week.

I'll get some photos up tomorrow.

[ranmar850]

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-pWhwqFw/0/1a1a2cee/XL/20180410_172237-XL.jpg

itchy as , but most of the cutting and wallowing in the dust is done. I need a couple of battery lugs to finish off the rear end electrics, plumbing is finished, ready to start the panel wiring tomorrow. I took an extra day off to make sure it was going to be ready to give to the Merc dealer to fit the motor while I was out at work.
I've been using a fair bit of a synthetic board the shipwrights at Mansfields put me on to. it's not like starboard--it had a gloss surface and a softer interior, takes a self tapper really well, works with wood working tools, including a router, which makes it easy to put a nice bullnose finish around a cut end. I've made up a drop-down battery panel with it--nowhere to fix hinges without drilling into the well, so I stuck some to the underside. key up the back side of it with the angle grinder, and it sticks to flocoat like the proverbial with Sika.. makes it easy to mount stuff where you can't drill into the substrate. I've used it to make battery cable supports, trim tabs reservoir mount, and even a backing plate with studs for the fuel filter. You can actually tap it, so I ran a 8mm tap through it, recessed the bolt heads, then araldited it all together--voila, studs to mount the fuel filter to.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-H5zpFDW/0/454d3e46/XL/20180410_141156-XL.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-prxSKMg/0/cbc20011/XL/20180410_141206-XL.jpg

[Cape Crusader]

Very nice ranmar850 and love the name ;D
Cheers
Rod

[chocolatemoose]

is that plastic material rather light? almost areo inside?

[ranmar850]

Apparently impervious to water, very strong and light. It won't show a clean edge like starboard when you cut it, and will pick up dirt, but it's ability to stick well to flowcoat makes it very useful when you have no way of mounting stuff otherwise. I'll have to find it's proper name.
Got to the pointy end wiring today, dry fitted all the panels, mounted the NMEA 2000 bus, fuse panels, termination strip, AP head...connected up all the flywiring from my flash switch panel and started connecting up load before the sunset beat me. I've got a full morning tomorrow to get it seaworthy for delivery to the Merc dealer. Some stuff obviously won't be done, like the anchor winch, extra lighting, live bait pump, deckwash, RV-100 transducer, stereo, but the basics will be there for a going legal boat.

[Sheik]

That's a good looking boat, congratulations and hope you get lots of trips out. Good on you for taking the plunge.

[The Mad Cat]

The plastic shops up this way call that PVC board. I use it for what Ranmar is using it for, great stuff.


TMC

[chocolatemoose]

We use a HDPE board "same as king starboard... use that from time to time as well" for building baitboards or backing plates on some winch installs. cupboard doors etc
we use a material called " sea board" which is similar but about 50% less dense... interesting material. doesnt have the strength but for cupboard carcasses etc it helps keep the weight down

[ranmar850]

I used that material to make up a hinged battery switch panel that locks up under the well, switch face up. The hinges fit to more of the same stuff sika'd up under the well.

Now you see me

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-kfZKKX8/0/89c95bdb/XL/20180412_132333-XL.jpg

Now you don't

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-VzzrVVN/0/de75a53b/XL/20180412_132323-XL.jpg


You can see the fuel filter mounting bracket I made on the transom inner. I was surprised at the thickness of the hull--these things have a reputation for toughness, but check out the thickness of the hull cutout for the B175M. I showed this to an ex-builder of large commercial hulls, and he was really surprised.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-5Sx7b6k/0/a51c5308/XL/20180412_193910-XL.jpg


This picture below would be the thinnest cut I took through the coaming top while installing the rod holders

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-RCPt7m5/0/2362d019/XL/20180412_193922-XL.jpg



it's now at the merc dealers having themotor fitted, sea trials next Friday when I fly in from work.

[up the creek]

in reply to ranmars origonal post ( the post was to long to quote lol) thats what its all about old mate, no point dying with super in the bank looking at other guys from the beach while u sit and wonder, thats what id be doin gettting the boat i want and hittin it as long as i can, if thats what makes you happy then its good your going for it, i hope you have many more years or fun fishing your new rig mate.. :)

[ranmar850]

Thanks for that, that is the intention.

[ranmar850]

They were meant to be done last Friday, but they were running late due to a small matter of the wiring loom ordered being too short http://fishwrecked.com/sites/all/libraries/fckeditor/editor/images/smiley/msn/confused_smile.gif. it was running in the yard Friday afternoon, but it was getting late, so I agreed to take it home and he would come up Monday morning. Then he couldn't come, so i did it myself. School holidays aren't the best time to be doing top speed runs in the river, especially if you are restricting yourself the the short stretch above the pens, you run out of room very quickly. So this is what Vesselview Mobile showed on my phone.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-MngMvSX/0/b2f1a929/X2/Screenshot_20180423-110319-X2.jpg

I'm not sure I was getting optimum revs and trim, so I'll be doing a very early morning run before the traffic gets on the river to see if I can better it. Merc state 5000-5800. If not, they'll exchange me for a 14.5x16, currently running a 17. I had 2 POB and 150 litres of fuel, just regular safety gear, so there's a bit more weight to go on yet. Certainly no lack of grunt out of the hole, she just jumps up and goes. I can't get the motor to talk to the network, don't know what the problem is there. there has been quite a bit of swell running up here--certainly more than I would recommend that someone take a small boat through, but I went outside for a run. Certainly the worst rivermouth I've ever been through in a trailerboat, and she handled it well. Outside, while there was no wind, it was really sloppy and stirred up, obviously a good souwester blowing outside. Put that on top of the swell, and it wasn't a good day for going fast in any direction. But I could do 16-18 knots , and nothing I've previously owned would be able to sustain more than 10 knots in those conditions.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-V6SSdKd/0/0725b6d9/XL/20180423_084455-XL.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-HMQnX9d/0/de5206a8/X2/20180423_115901-X2.jpg


Plenty more work to do yet--need to fit the winch , extra lighting, stereo, outriggers, odds and ends.

[ranmar850]

I tried another run this morning at first light, which gave me more room for a top speed run in the river, but according to the VVM, I got 38.5 knots @ 5450 rpm (managed to lose the screenshot>:() So we'll be trying a 16P.

[ranmar850]

B175M is a very tight fit between the transom and the fuel tank.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-ZkXMdTW/0/ef85b58e/XL/20180424_103319-XL.jpg



https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-qNv8MRk/0/4b1b1545/XL/20180424_103049-XL.jpg



Panel is more or less complete


https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-3Z9GKs5/0/0d4ce1b4/XL/20180424_083222-XL.jpg


I had the Seastar recessed hel fiited to get a bit more room behind the wheel when standing.

[552Evo]

[/QUOTE]
I can't get the motor to talk to the network, don't know what the problem is there.[/QUOTE]

I've been going through this with a different system to yours but I hope I can offer some insight.
My own system has a vessel view 4 (Merc 150 Four Stroke) and a Simrad NSS EVO, I'm trying to get accurate fuel data - i think I'll be better off using the "fuel used" calculations along with the vessel view input to get an idea of fuel remaining on the Simrad as opposed to using a fuel level sensor in the tank. ( I may be wrong)

Short story - to get the most accurate fuel used data I've ordered a fuel flow sensor to hook into a network.
Anyway, the vessel view and and other sensors you have need to be configured in the Raymarine unit you have.
The Simrad unit has an auto search function to look for external network inputs, but you should be able to "force" a different input in the settings somewhere in the Raymarine setup/network configurations.
I'm not suggesting you get any sensors, I'm suggesting there could be a network search function required to get the VV and the Raymraine unit to talk to each other.

Your rig is looking awesome- well done.

Jamie.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[catshark]

Congratulations, simply outstanding, one of the most beautiful boats ever built. Very neat helm area.

[ranmar850]

Thanks for that. I've used the search function for engine data, tells me none is found. I've plugged into the NMEA 2000 gateway to the Mercmonitor. tried a few things, resetting/rebooting made sure the MM is on Transmit--one thing I noticed today was that my software version on the Axioms had reverted to 3.3xxx, after I had installed the update on both via SD card before installation. So I updated everything via wifi in my driveway , so easy. I haven't tried to get engine data since, will try again tomorrow. I'll try to do a manual search for the motor as a Data Source, instead of auto.

[brett62]

Coming together.

Yes that is a tight fit for the transducer. How is the 175M performing ?

[ranmar850]

Too early to say. i went outside briefly but it was very crappy and I was more concerned with the general behaviour of the boat. I did notice I was getting a good picture as I was idling along in swell and slop, that's about it.

[brett62]

LOL. yes there would be certainly to much going on in your head at present and things to play with.

[ranmar850]

I went to sea for the first time yesterday, more of an extended sea trial than a real fishing trip. The dealer had given me another prop in an effort to get the max 5800rpm, but, instead, it just lost me 2.5 knots and gave me the same revs--this time, 36 knots at 5490. :( I was slightly heavier, with a bit of fishing gear on board, but it couldn't have been more than 45 kg of fish , ice and gear all up. compared to my previous runs. So he has gone back to the drawing board--I'd be happy just to get the original one back.
Happy with everything else--the RV-100 Autopilot is awesome, trim tabs now work ( switch was faulty out of the box), I've talked about the Axioms in the Electronics thread. The day was largely windless, but there was a strong cold front going through below us, and the wind wasn't far away, so the sea was a little lumpy. But she rode very well, 24 knots at 3700, 20 knots at 3400. It was showing a L/hr, couldn't get it to read NM/L, but it looked to be 1 nm /litre, consumption followed speed.

After catching up on some work around the house this morning, then got back onto the boat this afternoon. Under-gunwhale LED's are now complete.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-nrHjrdq/0/5e302829/X2/20180507_181834-X2.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-CQTJLch/0/f2527cdb/X2/20180507_181803-X2.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-nXdwqNV/0/c8058fdc/X2/20180507_181629-X2.jpg

Tomorrow I'll be getting into the overhead lighting , GPS aerial and remote spot.

[ranmar850]

getting there--Got the remote spotlight, external GPS, extra cabin light and overhead LED's installed. I was stumped for a while with somewhere to install the control panel; the remote controlled spot has an actual hard-wired joystick and switch on a panel, as I couldn't bring myself to hand over money, however little, for a chinese wireless remote model. The dash was full, and this needs to be easily accessible and mounted in the right plane. Then I realised the answer was staring me in the face--the Reefrunner hardtop has a good void running across the front , probably for reinforcing where it mounts on the screen, but also useful for running wiring across. Getting it up there is another matter, but I'll come to that later.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-rMp8JC9/0/9559637f/XL/20180509_122446-1525924311844-XL.jpg

The existing that came on the boat going to the hardtop--wipers, anchor light, cabin light--is run up through the centre of the windscreen frame, but, to get there, it is completely sealed under the cabin lining carpet--you would have to either run it surface or pull the carpet off and re-install.Neither of those thoughts appealed. I have seen people run wiring in split flex conduit up the s/s hardtop supports, or drill holes top and bottom and run it inside them. Again didn't appeal. I had bought a few lengths of the sticky-backed oval conduit to extend the extra cabin light, which is what Darren did with his build , and is what the boatbuilders do if you want more light towards the rear if the canopy. I realised this was the width of the side window frames--voila, we have a solution. Bring the wiring up in a hole right on the end of the frame, cut some of the conduit to size, and you have a route up to the front of the hardtop, with only a little wiring showing at the top. hardly noticeable, compared to the alternatives.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-rVmjzwJ/0/f452e8fc/XL/20180509_085935-1525924375845-XL.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-rVmjzwJ/0/f452e8fc/XL/20180509_085935-1525924375845-XL.jpg (https://ranmar.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-rVmjzwJ/A)


This let me get the GPS aerial cable up one side, and the power for the remote spot up the other. But how to get wiring to the back of the canopy for an LED worklight each side, which will illuminate the gunwhales and the water? Again, it was looking at me. The side clears have their top track mounted on a sturdy piece of Starboard full length of the canopy either side, and it has a nice wide blank bit above the track, which you can see until you fold the Sunbrella down. This is the conduit installed

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-NDD4H2J/0/6b1d2296/XL/20180509_085946-1525924361971-XL.jpg


And this is the finished job. I put a short piece of the stuff off the end to keep the wiring tight against the underside.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-xkRLP9H/0/c9f2fb8b/XL/20180509_122431-XL.jpg



https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-g6DQ4xh/0/09ef8dd9/XL/20180509_131323-XL.jpg


It's back in the shed now and I'm back at work. I only have to install the waterbladder, and associated wiring pump and plumbing to have the basic stuff finished. Then, the drum winch awaits--there will be a bit in that, as the bulkhead requires reinforcing, but I have some marine ply , and all the resin etc ready. I reckon a day for the glassing, then another day for the actual install of the winch body, as I can run the cabling while the initial cure is happening.

[gazza2006au]

Them clears looks awesome u must have quiet a bit of coin to chuck around

[ranmar850]

They are nice clears, those are the standard option for clears for that boat. They have started using Sunbrella instead of vinyl for the surrounds, reckon it will last a lot longer. IIRC, they were a $920 option, which is OK because it includes the mounting for the top track, machined from Starboard--I paid $600 for a very basic set of clears for my last boat, nowhere near as good, or big, as these.
I started out on this build with the firm belief I was going to do everything right, without going gold-plated, because I have been saving money on boats all my life, and this will likely be the last one;)

[ranmar850]

Gave it the first real run/fishing trip yesterday. Forecast was for a fresh Nor'easter ( blows off the land over here:)) dropping off at lunchtime. So I did my usual of heading up the shallows staying out of worst of the wind. The 14.5x17P Enertia was back on, as the dealer ended saying it was the best after a ringaround. Quartering into a 20 gusting to 30 knot wind and low chop, fully fueled , I settled in and did an average for the 40 minute run to my starting fishing point. Below is what the VVM mobile app told me for that section of the trip. I had played with trim and tabs a bit, and settled on 3450 and just over 20 knots.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-bqGC8Nv/0/024bcb6a/XL/Screenshot_20180520-075410-XL.jpg

The wind was strong enough to have be using a tab to level it.

The wind dropped off just before midday so I headed out wide and bottom bashed for a while. Drew a big zero out there, nothing but blue-lines, so we headed in about 2.45 , with an afternoon sou'wester, just enough to raise whitecaps, low chop. I pushed the revs up a little more and let it run for a while before doing another average. Averaged over 21 at 3600.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-LhVKsmT/0/30ff25b5/XL/Screenshot_20180520-152239-XL.jpg

Also ran it for ten minutes at a higher speed, 3700. Ride was exactly the same in the chop, fuel consumption went up so I was dropping just under 1nm per litre, observed.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-3rnZRwV/0/561dc8d4/XL/Screenshot_20180520-151618-XL.jpg

tried 4000 rpm for a while, fuel dropped a little more and the speed averaged over 26knots. So this will be a good one if you are in a hurry--not enough extra fuel to break the bank.
Overall for the day, the trip log told me I had done exactly 64 nm (118.5 km)back at the ramp , for just on 67 litres of fuel. I hadn't shut down all day, even while drifting, so that could have made it look a little worse than it actually was.Can't really complain about that, for a 150 pushing a fair-sized boat. The sweet spot of fuel vs distance covered, the only true consideration for a boat like this, looks to be 3400-3600 rpm.

A bit more work has been done since my last post. Water bladder and pump mostly installed, just need some 38mm filler hose I can't get locally and a fitting to connect a 1/4bsp female shower hose to a 12mm barb. Six hole internal rod holder has been mounted on the port side, low on the kickboard , with 10mm gap below so it can be washed under, but not high enough to jam bare toes in. You can see it behind in the pic.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Purely-fishing/i-tbMpp87/0/51b13e78/X2/IMG-20180520-WA0001-X2.jpg

I find these necessary for quick stowage of rods when you are clearing the deck after a billfish hook-up, my main deckie can't reach most rocket launchers ;D And rods up to 6ft can live in there travelling, clear of everything. I've made a start on reinforcing the forward bulkhead for the anchor winch, glassing the marine ply in today. I should have the winch mounted tomorrow.

[ranmar850]

Winch mounted today. Yesterday I glassed in a piece of 12mm marine ply to reinforce the front bulkhead. The stock set up looks pretty strong to me with longitudinal fillets between the bulkhead and the forward rake of the hull. I thought someone had been careless in placing them until I realised it was off-centred to allow for the motor on a drum winch.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-3W3rpGw/0/f6df08c0/XL/20180519_092610-XL.jpg

So I cut a piece of 12mm marine ply to fit and glassed one side. After it was touch dry , I laid a full size piece of mat on the other side, then screwed it to the bulkhead , after first wetting the ground -off flocoat finish. Tabbed around the edges, and a coat of flocoat when it was firm. these are a heavy winch( Tuffwinch 240HC), virtually identical in size to a Lonestar GX3. There was no way I could hold it in place and accurately mark the mounting holes, so the backing plate came to the rescue. I only had to hold the winch at the right height, mark the top edge, then use the backing plate to mark the holes. The holes were drilled 1mm oversize and internally sealed with epoxy. While waiting for that to set, I got into re-arranging the foredeck. The bollard and chain guide had to go, obviously, and were replaced with large horn cleats and a fairlead for hanging off a mooring. A piece of starboard was shaped up and bullnosed before being screwed down. The old holes were plugged with epoxy and wooden dowel--the deck appears to be very thick glass with a foam coring, but I sealed it all anyway. My approach to fastening anything on this boat has been based on whether i think it is likely to need removing--some has been wet-bonded, ie, line the hole with epoxy then smear epoxy on the thread before tightening it down. if it is possible it will be needed to remove it, I line the hole with epoxy then smear anti-sieze on the threads--this will allow it to be undone without heat if required.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-2bP2L9P/0/16e5d60c/XL/20180522_155818-XL.jpg

I used a Lonestar convex roller to (hopefully ) get the line laying on without bunching up too much in the centre.

After the epoxy in the mounting holes had set, i put the winch into place with some sika behind it, and cut off the ecess bolt length inside. I have a nice Caribbean embroidered pad to fit over that, courtesy of one Mansfield had left over from a previous build.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-w2f8g4T/0/a5c5ec97/XL/20180522_155857-XL.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-Zp53X49/0/f8c0325f/XL/20180522_155926-XL.jpg



Tomorrow I'll get it wired up and get 150 metres of rope on it ;D

[552Evo]

looking great, and good work.
Are you going to modify the hatch to allow the rope lay (side to side) as it winds onto the winch ?


Saltwater fishing, boat mad but has a job that gets in the way.

[ranmar850]

Yes, that'll have to happen after I get the rope on and figure out just how much I need to remove. I'll have it overwinding to keep it clear of the front lip of the well, just need to work on the lid.

[552Evo]

Sounds good - re the hatch.
So with the Reef Runner what style anchor do you use ?
That split section design on the nose of the bow sprit is nothing I’ve ever noticed anywhere before ?


Saltwater fishing, boat mad but has a job that gets in the way.

[ranmar850]

That style of bowsprit is common to all Caribbeans , up to the 2700, at least--I didn't think it was an uncommon design for larger glass boats? The split is deep enough for it to work well with a power winch, apparently.
I'll likely be using a #2 Sarca I have here already . I also have the 20lb plough that came with it, plus a 15lb plough, and a 16lb heavy -pronged Grapnel--I'll have to see how the Sarca goes, it may require a #3. I'll likely fab up a dogbone to go in front of whatever I use to make sure it comes up the right way every time.

[scottar]

Depending on what sort of seas you are likely to anchor in it might be worth thinking about a hoop at the front too. I found the rope had a tendency to jump out of the roller when it was rough

[ranmar850]

Yes, I was thinking about that. The bowsprit design will make that an easy installation if necessary.

[myusernam]

how do you find the tuffwinch? about to buy one myself...

[ranmar850]

Well, I haven't had a chance to use it yet, so can't really comment. Certainly a heavy piece of kit, at least in the bigger version I bought. I've since added a hoop to the bowsprit to keep the rope in the general vicinity of the roller, as below.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-xmCXsnN/0/c03e3f30/XL/20180617_144532-XL.jpg


ran the rope on--100m of 8mm double braid nylon, which was supplied in the kit, plus 30m of 6mm dyneema, then 20 m of 12mm silver rope on top, for abrasion resistance. And 9 m of 6mm chain. It should go on a bit better, moving across that tapered roller, with weight on it, I was just applying a bit of friction with gloves. Need to run it all out at sea .

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-VCsSCvr/0/396f65c0/XL/20180602_164734-XL.jpg

[ranmar850]

I've done a bit more lately. Installed a power outlet/USB charger over by the passenger seat.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-5rdSxNz/0/c8e74540/L/20180617_110336-L.jpg

And finally got around to fitting the outriggers. The Rupp Top Guns were my biggest single indulgence on this boat--I'd avoided outriggers for years, but after seeing how easy a good top mount could be on a hardtop, bit the bullet. Once the telescopics are out , you don't need to adjust anything, if you get the attachment point for the halyard right. it will just swing back and forward, keeping the same tension.



https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-542Bxhm/0/e35bd3ef/XL/20180620_150349-XL.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-B8q46w2/0/adef4e1e/XL/20180621_115802-XL.jpg


I changed the rigging slightly since I took that last pic--the clip was a little high, so I pulled the Hal-lock through that eye, rather than clipping it on, and clipped it lower down, so the clip is within easy reach.

[552Evo]

Just a small tid bit of info regarding your USB charger, I installed one very similar.
I left a lightning cable for the iPhone on the boat, I ventured on the water maybe 3 times in a few weeks then found the plug end of the cable rusted, it was only a cheapie cable but I did keep it under the helm. The sea air obviously got to it.
I don’t know if expensive cables are any better but I gave the last one a squirt of lanex or whatever it’s called. So far so good.


Saltwater fishing, boat mad but has a job that gets in the way.

[myusernam]

I turn power off to accessories outlets when not in use. I think with power applied in a misty salt environment you get accelerated corrosion.

[ranmar850]

Finally thought to get some photos of the trailer with the boat off. Dropped it at the local ramp and took the trailer home for a check over. note to self--drop the gain on the brake controller right back with the boat off, as a dab on the brakes results in a blue-smoking trailer lockup when unloaded :o
The standard trailer supplied with the base price is a 2200/1999 kg job, overide brakes. Whih is fine for towing it around suburbia without loading it up. But I do some long runs, with bits of it on atrocious roads/tracks, heavily loaded, so i went up to 2900/2700, electric over hydraulic. Drives on well, although my local ramp is not cnducive to this as the base of the ramp is mud/sand, and I can't see the point in filling up the cooling passages with sediment just before I shut it down. I have a Boatlatch to fit, may get around to it, may not.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-tnVk4Tg/0/b321a633/X2/20180622_095434-X2.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-9MZLK7H/0/eac3123e/XL/20180622_095506-XL.jpg



The whole thing is channel or angle, with the exception of the actual drawbar.

[gazza2006au]

Nice trailer Ranmar you sure do have a lovely BMT package a few people have tried talking me out of building a all welded alloy trailer but i see businesses selling them so surely it can't be that bad?

i towed a brake trailer 2.5-3 hours home the other night in the pissing down rain i never gave the latch on the coupling a thought i did flip it over and off so the brakes would work can u imagine how many times the wheels would have locked up in the rain lol i must have looked like a total idiot haha

[scottar]

Mechanical over rides are a bit different to electric hydraulic Gazza. How hard they brake is more or less dtermined by the load pushing on the car. Less load equals less braking force.

[Noelm]

What's the chance of those short over hanging pieces of skid material near the rollers, on the side guides getting broken or damaging the boat if hit hard? not knocking anything, just curious, because pictures sometimes don't show what it is really like, and it seems like they hang out quite a bit.

[Muzza]

Hey Ranmar,
Nice trailer and great boat/setup. Ever thought of getting some carpet or padding that could velcro onto the rear crossbar either side of the first roller just to have on while loading? Then rip it off once boat is on and away you go, nothing to hold water on the crossbars. I know when it's windy at the ramp the bow does not always target that roller as well as we would like.
cheers
Muz

[ranmar850]

What's the chance of those short over hanging pieces of skid material near the rollers, on the side guides getting broken or damaging the boat if hit hard? not knocking anything, just curious, because pictures sometimes don't show what it is really like, and it seems like they hang out quite a bit.

it's a bit of an optical illusion, they only overhang enough to cover the very end of the supporting bracket. There is nothing, short of running up onto a mudguard, that can damage the hull when you bring it on. It slides down onto the rollers nicely if off-centred, whether driving on or winching.


Nice trailer and great boat/setup. Ever thought of getting some carpet or padding that could velcro onto the rear crossbar either side of the first roller just to have on while loading? Then rip it off once boat is on and away you go, nothing to hold water on the crossbars. I know when it's windy at the ramp the bow does not always target that roller as well as we would like.

The white material on the crossbar is slippery, hard and non-marking, you can hit it anywhere and it just slides down into the centre without any hull damage. Those crossbars/sidebars with the white material don't actually support anything once the boat is on the trailer--they are just there to centre the boat down onto the keel rollers. When the boat is fully on, all the weight is on the keel rollers, rear bunks and front side rollers. It appears to be a good setup. Made by Easytow in Melbourne. I could have had alloy for a similar amount of money, but I'm just not sold on them, as a) I'm not close to towing limit and weight is not a consideration, b) Most of them seem to come with rubber torsion suspension , doesn't suit my useage, OK for all-highway use , and c) still too many stories of them cracking. All of my current away favourite fishing spots are at the end of often badly corrugated, potholed roads and tracks. In contrast, my local favourite ramp is only 1.4km away. There is one closer, but I don't like it. ;D

[swof63]

What's the chance of those short over hanging pieces of skid material near the rollers, on the side guides getting broken or damaging the boat if hit hard? not knocking anything, just curious, because pictures sometimes don't show what it is really like, and it seems like they hang out quite a bit.

Yep, I’ve got any Easytow as well and managed to clip one of the “eyebrows” above the tail lights when driving on in a chop, made possible by someone next to me firing up on their trailer and gunning it in gear, pushing me off course at the critical time. Got to learn how to patch gel oat from that one!!!

Needless to say those eyebrows now have Teflon deflectors installed.

Probably not so much a problem for ranmar as by the sounds of it he’s not planning to drive on.

Just a note on the trailer load-bearing. With those carpeted bunks, all the weight should be on the keel rollers and the bunks should just be adjusted up to steady/balance the boat. Too much weight on the bunks can make it difficult to launch and is not necessary.


Sent from my iPad using Ausfish mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=91595)

[Muzza]

Ranmar,

sounds like you've got it covered :-)

Cheers
Muz,

[gazza2006au]

I have looked for the old style fibreglass boat carpet replacement and cannot find it, ranmar u mentioned your using the white stuff that is PVC for alloy boats isnt it? i have seen that stuff everywhere listed with the blue and red PVC plastic sliders but the sellers mention its for alloy boats

is this it? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BOAT-TRAILER-SKIDS-BUNK-POLY-WHITE-BUMPER-1-METRE-AUSTRALIAN-MADE-40x30mm/122909628148?epid=1351912736&hash=item1c9dfc16f4:g:fn8AAOxy4YdTSxUg

[Noelm]

The blue and red stuff is what you buy at boat places, a proper plastics place will sell you the right stuff for your purpose, and cut it to size if you like, just to add, it is not Teflon, and it is not the same as cheap cutting boards.

[gazza2006au]

Noel do u know what the correct name is for glass boats?

[ranmar850]

I have looked for the old style fibreglass boat carpet replacement and cannot find it, ranmar u mentioned your using the white stuff that is PVC for alloy boats isnt it? i have seen that stuff everywhere listed with the blue and red PVC plastic sliders but the sellers mention its for alloy boats

is this it? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BOAT-TRAILER-SKIDS-BUNK-POLY-WHITE-BUMPER-1-METRE-AUSTRALIAN-MADE-40x30mm/122909628148?epid=1351912736&hash=item1c9dfc16f4:g:fn8AAOxy4YdTSxUg

No, that isn't it. Its a profile like some of the blue stuff i've used, flat on one side , convex on the other. It just has to have the boat slide off it as you load,it's just for centring, because it doesn't actually come into contact once you are on the keel ( rubber) rollers and resting on the carpeted bunk and front wobble rollers.

[Muzza]

Yeah mate my eyes aren't great on pics , thought it was straight metal, glad it's protected.

On the side supports, not sure how they work on a big glass boat, my last one 20 foot heavy bitch.was all roller as is our 6m yellowfin now, but if it does take a hit on rough roads the pressure will be along that line of the support. . I cracked the floor in a little tinny towing to gladstone once with front to back supports so rejgged it to side to side 'blue' supports, which spread any load across the hull where the strength is not vertically hoping to hit a 'stringer'.but spread across all the hull and its stringer strength
Hope that makes some sense, sounds like yours sits well on the keel and side supports are wider so may not be an issue.
Muz

[CT]

Any updated fuel consumption figures from the Monties trip etc?

[Noelm]

Noel do u know what the correct name is for glass boats?
Take a trip to a dedicated plastics place and ask them to advise you on material, I used to have a mate in the industry and he could get me bits and pieces, I know in the Steelworks here they used to have a stainless chute thing that some kind of material used to slide down, maintenance was never ending, he supplied them with a "plastic" that lasted much longer, was cheaper and required less maintenance.

[ranmar850]

Any updated fuel consumption figures from the Monties trip etc?


49nm (90.7km) to the anchorage at Home Lagoon from the mouth of the Fortescue, started out good, went a bit sh***y, then a lot, tide running against 15 knot easterly on the stern quarter, used 77.5 litres total. On the AP, one hand on the the throttle, making the odd adjustment. This was carrying 300 litres of fuel on board in jerries, plus the 225 underfloor, plus our camping gear and a rubber ducky and 3.3 hp outboard. And 55 litre water tank full. I thought that was pretty good. Coming back , with the underfloor tank full, 20 litres in a jerry, others all empty, water mostly gone, used 75. But it was a really hard trip, spent a lot of time on and off the throttle. My more normal useage , full fuel and all fishing gear/ice, is more 0.8-0.9 NM per litre. ( 1.5 to 1.7 km/l)., at around 22 knots, and 3900 rpm. its just on 2 tonne on the water fully fuelled with two on board.

[CT]

Thanks Ranmar,
Geez you were carrying a load! Interesting that the return trip economy was essentially the same, albeit with crappier sea conditions.

Cheers
Craig

[ranmar850]

Much crappier conditions, 20-25 knots on the bow port quarter, strong tide running on an almost full moon. And still had all the empty jerries, and a full one, full fuel, and the camping gear, rubbish, and the rubber duckie and outboard. So we weren't really light. Odd one was standing up over wheelhouse height, I was on and off the throttle for quite a while, auto pilot on one hand on the grab rail, one on the throttle. Eventually I settled down to a steady 12-13knots, because, with the tabs, it genuinely planes at that, but still had to stop every 20 minutes as the Barcrusher 615C travelling with us kept falling out of sight behind. They were copping a real flogging, soaked even with the hardtop down, peering through that tiny slit of a windscreen. That was definitely the worst conditions I've ever had to endure in a pleasure boat for an extended period. The Reefrunner handled it really, really well, nothing under 28 ft would have been making any kind of speed across that crap, so safe and stable. Hell, the workboat drivers I know who do the crew change runs across that same stretch to the rigs reckon they pound in 28 metre cats built for the job.
A calmish trip would probably realistically see 55-60 litres for the same trip at good speed.

[Dirtyfuzz]

Still happy with your axioms? I’m thinking of going a pro for the fish finding ability and flush mount my standard axiom to use for maps and gauges etc or go something different like a Garmin or Furuno 588!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Paul071978]

Is the reef Runner 6.4 LOA or actual hull length?

[chocolatemoose]

Best just go the full hog and go to the 2400 :D

119559

[ranmar850]

Still very happy with the Axiom/Axiom Pro network. Tend to use 9" Pro for charts on the way out on a long trip, with the 7" RV for dashboard. Then swap to 9" for fish and 7 for charts. So customisable, haven't found anything that frustrates or limits me. Now to get the UAV app working with my Mavic Pro . Wait, one thing that refuses to be sorted. There is an issue with getting a sea surface temp up with the motor on, Merc 150 4 stroke. Fine with the ignition off. Raymarine forum mods , after looking at it for a while, advised me to find someone who knew the Merc gateway, to get that input disabled. The problem is that the source for seawater temp cannot be selected manually, as most other inputs can be. The seawater temp is there, but I have to go into the Transducer menu to see it when the motor is running. So there is that one thing.

[ranmar850]

I'll measure it tomorrow, I think that is hull length.

[ranmar850]

49nm (90.7km) to the anchorage at Home Lagoon from the mouth of the Fortescue, started out good, went a bit sh***y, then a lot, tide running against 15 knot easterly on the stern quarter, used 77.5 litres total. On the AP, one hand on the the throttle, making the odd adjustment. This was carrying 300 litres of fuel on board in jerries, plus the 225 underfloor, plus our camping gear and a rubber ducky and 3.3 hp outboard. And 55 litre water tank full. I thought that was pretty good. Coming back , with the underfloor tank full, 20 litres in a jerry, others all empty, water mostly gone, used 75. But it was a really hard trip, spent a lot of time on and off the throttle. My more normal useage , full fuel and all fishing gear/ice, is more 0.8-0.9 NM per litre. ( 1.5 to 1.7 km/l)., at around 22 knots, and 3900 rpm. its just on 2 tonne on the water fully fuelled with two on board.

Found my misplaced dashboard screenshots. These are with the 15x15 Enertia I am now running. These numbers were normally loaded, full fuel, ice and fushing gear. Wind was 15-20 knots almost beam on, 2 metre swell, but blowing offshore and I was only 400 metres off the beach, so not much sea. These numbers would be typical, but I have seen it go to 1nm/litre. WOT in those conditions, that day, was 5600, 35 kts, 0.6nm/litre.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-LC4T6hD/0/2d6b4d31/XL/Screenshot%20dashboard%20fast%20cruise15x15-XL.png



https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-build/i-hFd2LLk/0/e369c122/XL/ScreenShot%20dashboard%20medium%20cruise%2015x15-XL.png

[Dirtyfuzz]

Good numbers for the conditions! Did you test the 4 blade revolution props at all? Think I might go that way if I end up getting mercs!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CT]

That seems pretty reasonable for a 150 on a 24 ft boat. Where did you start with props?

[ranmar850]

Started with an Enertia 14 1/2 x 17. This seems to be accepted for this motor and hull combination over here, quite popular. I know one guy who went 14 1/2 x 18, and got excellent numbers light, 42 knots @5600 IIRC. But then the real fitout started and and he was well overpropped, went down to the 14 1/2 x 17. My intial seatrial, which i covered earlier, gave pretty good numbers with the original 17P, dealersaid we should go down an inch, so gave me a 26P, and all we did was lose significant speed for the same RPM. :-? he rang around, said stick wih the 17P, gave it back. I was really happy with cruise speed numbers and consumption, butas i added more gear to get to completion, I was struggling to get the minimum 5200. So i tried a 15 x15 Enerria picked up s/hand, seems to fit the bill. but I have never seen the 5800 max rpm. It lifted onto the plane with all that Monties trip load with no hesitation and no tabs, so I reckon it's right enough.
loking at the comparison figures for the 200 Yamaha on the same boat, they were identical rpm vs speed until you hit the rev max, and the Yamaha then went four knots more, with more rpm. Would I buy the same motor again , for the same boat? The only time I would like more HP is when it is absolute glass, somewhere like Exmouth gulf where you run a long way. Then it would be nice to have a fast cruise of 30 knots vs 26 knots. New 200 Merc would get the nod. Otherwise, if you are looking at the dollars, I'd stay the same. Low 20's cruise is all you generally need or can use over here, anyway.

[CT]

Thanks mate, I've just picked up a new 225 so will be keen to see how it compares. Current prop is a 17" Enertia. Hoping to get it wet for the first time next week.

[Paul071978]

That seems pretty reasonable for a 150 on a 24 ft boat. Where did you start with props?

24ft boat?

[ranmar850]

Is the reef Runner 6.4 LOA or actual hull length?


Just measured it as close as I could get. From the point of the bow (minus bowsprit) to to top of the transom, it comes to just on 6.4 metres. Bowsprit is an extra 400mm.