Volvo D3 160HP

[BigE]

Looking at a boat with 2013 Volvo D3 160Hp turbo charged diesel stern drive with low hours, Not having owned a stern drive before I thought i would ask for anyone experience with stern drives and specifically anyone experience with the D3 volvo power plant.

Seems to be a mixed bag on google seems like some issues with early models and some good feedback on the later models/versions.

Plenty of old salts on here, thought someone may have some experience with these.

any comments experience appreciated.


BigE

[PROS]

What size/weight is the boat?

[BigE]

6.7 meter trailer boat , don't have a weight hull is rated as 130 -225 HP.
BigE

[DATCOL]

I think not enough horse power will be slow, I took a Fjord 6 meter with a Volvo turbo 165 HP With duo prop for a test run was very smooth but so SLOW with good economy

[PROS]

6.7 meter trailer boat , don't have a weight hull is rated as 130 -225 HP.
BigE
Make sure to take it out for a test drive before ignoring or committing.
I moved from a fast outboard, mid weight 6mt mono to heavy cat with inboard diesel recently.
Very happy with my choice however there were some sacrifices and gains.

Comfortable ride, amount of space, economy and purchase price was the major upsides.
No more bashing as the cat is heavy and rides well. I don't feel exhausted anymore after a day trip.
Purchase price was low as people have tendency to stay away from inboards, especially an inboard cat.
Great economy, very low fuel consumption compared to petrol outboards combination.
Diesel is safe and cheaper to buy than 95-98 octane I was using for the outboard.
Having inboard gives you more floor space in the boat and back. You get to use the full boat length and no large outboard sticking out.

Speed was pretty much the main and only downside.
Low down, diesels have lots of torque, surprisingly easy to get the boat on plane however you are limited with top speed.
I was out fishing yesterday with the diesel cat and cruising at 17knts with great economy, feels slow but ride is great. I just set the speed and forget, use the auto pilot and walk around the boat comfortable if needed.
I need to find another 3knts without increasing the rpm to be acceptable performance for my needs. Boat has a very dirty bottom currently. Possibly cleaning the hull, removing antifoul and painting the bottom will get me there hopefully.

Check out the noise level, I was hitting 95db yesterday on cruise, 70-75db on idle, feels noisy and I can improve this by modification to engine box and sound absorbent sheets.

Have a sea trail first. You will most likely be disappointed with the speed performance if you are used to fast boats. Evaluate the negatives against positives and see where it gets you.

Max

[BigE]

Thanks for the replies, I'm with you max ... getting to old to be bashed about for an extra 10 kph , it takes me old bones to long to recover.

I never had a stern drive so i really don't know what i'm getting into, I like the idea of diesel but haven't owned one in a marine environment so again i'm in the dark.

anyone had a D3 Volvo engine?

BigE

[Seahuff]

Had a 21' Savage Bluefin with a Turbo charged/Intercooled Volvo sterndrive ( cant remember if it was a D3) but would be similar vintage and horsepower.
What i found was it was noisy (even wiith extra insulation i put in the engine cover/cowling) bit like having a tractor in the middle of your boat!
But the worst thing was getting it on and off the trailer at the boat ramp, at highish revs driving the boat on and off the trailer, the amount of black shit that came out from the exhaust and ended up in the water around the boat and on the boat at water level (unburnt fuel and carbon) was seriously embarrassing and bordering on pollution regs
I spoke to numerous diesel mechanics and was told there was no way of avoiding this with old tech diesels/and a trailer boat situation/ maybe on a mooring it would be better, but would be still noisy.
I fished out of a 26' Seaswirl striper with a Volvo diesel 260hp and that was a great boat and nothing like my old one, but that was a new modern diesel and really quiet.
Now i have a 6m Fisher plate centre console with twin 60hp yammy 4 strokes which is quiet and sweet !! Wouldnt go down that road again!!

[Seahuff]

Hey Big E,
Just dug out some old paperwork, mine was a 2.4 litre Volvo AD31 4 cylinder direct injected turbo charged/intercooled Duo prop (for memory i think around 130hp)

[BigE]

Thanks seahuff , I'm not sure what i'm getting into so I'm a bit out of my depth. The diesel i'm looking at is 2013 model so I think it is a late model common rail.

BigE

[Smithy]

The D series Volvos are the common rail electronic version I believe. I am skeptical about common rail in the marine environment when you are relying on electricity to keep things going. Also very pure fuel. I think they would be nice engines to live with, clean fuel burn, economical etc,, I'd just want a couple of big Racor fuel filters in line before the secondary fuel filter and also a couple of auto bilge pumps in your engine bay. Any salty mist getting around your engine box is going to cause green death on any of your harnesses/terminals etc. That will be your issue down the track I reckon. A lot to be said for old school diesels where once you get them going, hard for them to stop if you keep the air, fuel and water up to them. I think common rail is better for the big boats with big engine rooms with big bilge blowers etc to stop salt air misting.

[BigE]

thanks Smithy

[PROS]

The D series Volvos are the common rail electronic version I believe. I am skeptical about common rail in the marine environment when you are relying on electricity to keep things going. Also very pure fuel. I think they would be nice engines to live with, clean fuel burn, economical etc,, I'd just want a couple of big Racor fuel filters in line before the secondary fuel filter and also a couple of auto bilge pumps in your engine bay. Any salty mist getting around your engine box is going to cause green death on any of your harnesses/terminals etc. That will be your issue down the track I reckon. A lot to be said for old school diesels where once you get them going, hard for them to stop if you keep the air, fuel and water up to them. I think common rail is better for the big boats with big engine rooms with big bilge blowers etc to stop salt air misting.

- bilge blower -
I am assuming this is an isolated blower picking up air away from possible salty mist area of the back of the boat and forcing into the engine bay rather than openings on the engine box to suck air in?
If so, where does the blower sucks the air from?

[scottar]

- bilge blower -
I am assuming this is an isolated blower picking up air away from possible salty mist area of the back of the boat and forcing into the engine bay rather than openings on the engine box to suck air in?
If so, where does the blower sucks the air from?

Not unusual for large commercial vessels to run engine room fans to force feed air to keep the engine room cool. Typically the intakes are up high either integrated into the towers that house the exhaust stacks or behind the accomadation so as to shield them from water. No standard position as such - just the least likely area to cop salt water

[Alchemy]

Personally I think a 160hp diesel in a 6.7m that is propped correctly would be just ok. You won't have the top end of an outboard but it doesn't sound like that will bother you. I have a 240hp diesel in a 7.5m platey and it goes very well. Optimal cruise is 22 knots, fast cruise is 25 kts and flat out is 30 kts.

Smithys comments on electrical concerns are valid and I experienced multiple starter motor failures and one alternator failure within the first three years of my new engine. All related to saltwater ingress in engine bay due to a manufacturing floor in the exhaust elbow, which cracked a number of times. Since that has been fixed, I haven't had a single issue. Note well though, that these failures wouldn't be unique to a modern common rail engine. All other electrical components and sensors have rubber seals protecting connections. I also give my engine a good spray of lanolin every so often. I reckon the high tech outboards would be just as likely to be effected by salt air as the common rail. Re fuel concerns; make sure you run a good pre filter. I use a Racor with a 2 micron element.

The last time my starter motor was replaced, my mechanic had the bright idea of getting it rhino coated so it would be sealed. Given the starter motor is low down on the engine, and close to the bottom of the bilge, I think this was a great idea. He also left me with the old starter motor, which I had rebuilt for $150 or so and I now carry this as a spare.

Re misting concerns; I had two vents on my transom, which I have blocked off, and I have four in the front sides of the engine box. I have added three bilge blowers but these draw air from high in the engine bay to remove heat. My theory is that by removing the hot air, cooler ambient air is drawn in via the front vents. To aid corrosion resistance I leave the engine hatch slightly open when not in use to help air circulation and to keep everything dry.

As as others have suggested, your true test is to go for a run in it. Also look hard at access for servicing. If I built my boat again, I'd sacrifice another 100mm of deck space all round it to make access easier.

Regards,
Dave.

ps, is it the boat at JCM?

[BigE]

Thanks Smithy and Dave, your on to the right boat Dave, looks like there are engine vents in the cockpit and on the out side of the transom, really feeling out of my depth about inboards.
BigE

[Alchemy]

Thanks Smithy and Dave, your on to the right boat Dave, looks like there are engine vents in the cockpit and on the out side of the transom, really feeling out of my depth about inboards.
BigE

With respect to that particular boat, a couple of things stick out as potential difficulties. The leg and hull appear to be anti-fouled. Legs that live in the water are notorious for being problematic, whereas mine that lives at home on the trailer looks almost new. They don't mention the leg as being replaced with the engine, so it may be the original.

Access around the engine looks extremely tight, and I particularly hate stern drives that have the transom opening to provide access to the rear of the engine. Imagine being perched out there with the transom open while trying to fix or inspect a problem in a rough sea! Perhaps there is nothing down the back that would cause grief, but on my engine there is the return fuel cooler, and any hose connection is a potential problem. I cracked a hose clamp on my fuel cooler, and all my return diesel went into the bilge. I didn't realise till I got home and pulled the bung! It was an easy enough repair at home though.

If you're mechanically inclined then I would look into it further. It seems reasonably priced to me, but then I haven't seen it in the flesh. Perhaps you could bargain them down based on some of the concerns I've raised?

Good luck,
Dave.

[gofishin]

I have no experience with the D3, nor with that boat Ian - so in that regard not much use to you sorry! However, grew up in all sorts of I/O Volvo powered boats, with 'old gen' petrol and diesel donks, and used to do up to three times more hours in one year in these than I have done in my current O/B powered boat after 8yrs!

My 2c... just because you are not familiar with them shouldn't put you off I/O's if 'the package' ticks all the boxes and has more +'s than -'s. Not too familiar with recent pricing but I would guess that in 2013 the D3 itself would have cost about what they are asking now for the whole boat! That must be a big +, but don't let that cloud the judgement [emoji6].

Some good info in the prev posts, and Dave's comments are spot on, especially in regards to access for maintenance, and legs that have lived in the water (if that is the case). I also despise that sort of transom design for the very reason Dave mentioned (used to fit them and work on them - a long time ago). However, many trailer boat builders use this sort of transom, with hatches both sides, so hard to get away from.

In terms of very economical cruising at a comfortable 20-22kn, I think that donk would be spot on too, so long as you don't want her to go above 30-31kn flat out!

A lot of people look at the sticker HP of a diesel and say 'nah, way too small...' etc but they obviously have no experience with diesels, nor know the importance of the torque they provide (torque = thrust), and walk away without giving it a second thought.

You can also look at 'the numbers', as these don't lie. Also, don't forget the extra propulsion efficiency and speed provided by the Duoprop.

The boat you are looking at would provide very similar cruising speeds, at their respective best/optional economy, if it were powered by a Yam 3.3L F250A or B .... but the fuel consumption would be halved with the D3-160. Guaranteed the yam will give it an extra 7-8kn more top speed though... but how often do you need this?? (Note; I chose this yam because i know it very well, and it provides an excellent comparison at cruise revs).

Compare attached D3 data, vs EPA extracts I got years ago for the F250B. Note the D3 has a nice flat torque curve, and nearly 50 more max N.m than the F250. No n/aspd. petrol will provide a flat torque curve like this.

Optimum efficiency (at a decent speed) for the D3 will be around 2.8-3k (end of the flat peak), and the peak torque of the yam is at 4k- which I know is its 'sweet spot', +/- 1-200 revs. Also note both donks provide roughly the same HP at the cruise revs as stated. (F250 speed & fuel data from my boat, and know that the D3-160 would provide similar cruise at optimum efficiency).

I can also confirm that in life the above comparison is true, even with old school petrol and diesel donks, as we repowered many twin petrol I/O boats with single diesels, and the consumption dropped to half/60% on average for the same cruise speed - so long as donk selection was good.

There is only one reason that I don't currently have a diesel I/O... we'll two actually... 1) my boat couldn't have one fitted, and 2) sand bars and very shallow waters (legs used to have limited trim allowance when in gear... but maybe in the last 27yrs the new legs have changed ???[emoji4] ). What trim angle can you run in idle Dave?

Cheers & happy decision making.
Brendon

PS, the performance figures (scribble on torque graph) from the petrol OB are from my boat, under ideal 'prop testing conditions' and vary depending on the prop selection.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170131/ae6da39f561f23a42eef395acf7c279c.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170131/ae5c63fc6f37996c1ecddfd35d8c6ea0.jpg



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[Smithy]

What Dave said. Engine access looks tight. Mine isn't too bad all things considered on my Yanmar but I still have to do my oil filter by feel as it is below deck level and my raw water pump is also a pain, below deck level. Like Brendon said, it would do the job I reckon. The 170hp is the derated one and that motor is also done as a 220hp. As for those boats, you'd have to take them for a test drive. Their videos look good but I think Hydrofield were the only ones to get the tri hull formula right and maybe some of the Tradewinds etc. All other ones I have heard about bang in the tunnels.

[Alchemy]

Brendon, I can idle my bravo 2 fully tilted up, though it doesn't do much as all the thrust is upwards! Just trim down a tad and I'm moving. I can navigate 600mm of water, though that is probably closer to a metre as my transducer is a through hull and not far off the keel.

Your comment on diesel torque is spot on. During my gulf trip of 2011, I towed my 3.9m tinnie with electric, 3 pob, 600 odd litres of diesel, 200 of petrol and over 200 of water, plus food and beers (lots) for a two week journey; at 18 knots. What surprised me was how easily the boat climbed onto the plane, and my fuel consumption for that was just over 1 litre per km. Normally I do around 0.6l/km.

[PROS]

Another benefit with diesel is range, it is significantly increased with diesel inboard which gives many other options.

[gofishin]

So true Max.

Sounds like a memorable trip to the cape Dave, I’d like to do similar one day…but maybe in the next ‘diesel’ boat hey [emoji6]. However, the guy I sold my last boat to (140 zuke) did a trip from Cooktown up round the top and down to Karumba I think, with 5 or 6 other tinnies, and sent me a DVD of the footage… bloody marvellous trip & country! Reminded me of the good old days…

We used to do big trips when we were in PNG, hence the progression to diesels for range & reliability (compared to the alternatives in those days). Never had to replace a starter motor on the water, but used to take one with us just in case, no VMR or Coastguard up there [emoji15]. I guess this is one area that has changed significantly these days … reliability! Any of the mainstream outboards are so reliable these days that breakdowns maybe less than diesel I/O’s (well from your experiences with starter motors it seems???)

Sorry Ian, I digress… This thread has sparked some interest so I tried googling for some performance comparisons between D3 diesels & petrol O/B’s in the same boat – which I though Peter Webster had done some years ago with one of the larger Sigs…. but didn’t find anything. Found this though… same boat with petrol and diesel I/O’s, but the 170hp D3 version...

http://www.redbook.com.au/boat-reviews/2014/cuddy---half-cabin/whittley/sea-legend-22-sd/whittley-sl-22-sd-petrol-v-diesel-46458?csn_tnet=true

Seamedia did do a test on the L/style 670 though Ian, didn’t read it all but they gave it a good wrap from the bits I skimmed over. Excerpt of their summary attached fyi...
Cheers
Brendon

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170201/a3a964bae81a1c8a185255c46063084f.jpg


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[BigE]

Still thinking hard on whether to buy or not, thanks for sharing thoughts and experience on diesels and stern drives, look like the boat has air intakes to the engine hatches both inside and outside the boat and does not appear to have any sort of bilge blower. looking at have a water test but to be honest i dont really know what to be looking for from the diesel /sterndrive side of the show, have been boating for about 30 years ( Jesus just realized how old i am) but I've never been in a stern drive all my boating has been in outboards, I've done some hours in a cat and a hydro-field up north so I am familiar with the handling traits.

I think the engine will have enough drive but most likely not be a speed boat which should be an issue in my experience with hydro's as they seemed to me to be more comfortable at a cruise where as the cat seemed to like more speed to make the tunnel work.

I really like the boat layout (so does the minster) and i have an appropriate tow vehicle and shed, but i keep coming back to what happen if the diesel is a dud or has issues, would be a big job to convert into a outboard and would also be expensive to replace a diesel and /or leg.

My understanding is the original engine died from water ingress and a new long motor was install via insurance and installed. pretty sure the leg is original and the engine had a no start issue which was caused by a stop switch not being connected.

Could be buying a low hour gem or someone else's nightmare.

any other thoughts ?

BigE

[BigE]

Brendon

Thanks for the D3 data really appreciate that, sounds like you have plenty of real world experience with inboards. you were spot on with the $$ comments and it is a big + but i suppose that is only if it doesn't turn into a money pit night mare. if it is reliable then it will be a good thing if bits start falling off it could get expensive real quick, I'm handy but by no means a diesel mechanic/ technician.

BigE

[BigE]

BTW
Spoke to the boat builder this is the only diesel stern drive they have made, he did say he liked the boat and it went well.

I suppose he would have some bias though. LOL.

BigE

[PROS]

Always good to get a marine surveyor/mechanic to check the hull and engine thoroughly.
Ask the seller to split the cost of the inspection, it will help to sell his boat still should you decide not to go ahead as a result of inspection.

[MyWay]

Take boat for test run and test it for 1 hours not just 10 min ,make sure the engine don't overheat ( keep eyes on temp gauge and oil pressure ) also when you testing boat take it with a few friends with you (4 on board if you can ) as boat will be most likely have 1/2 full with fuel and it will paint a better picture of the performance once you put some load in .
D3 is good engine bit more expensive for maintenance then some similar engines in size, but that is Volvo .
if the boat ticks all the boxes buy it with cofidence .Just one more ting take a mirror with you to check oil sump for corrosion .
I had 21f with 120 hp turbo diesel and I loved it .
was slow in beginning but after some time you just get use to economy

[BigE]

How long is to long for diesel to sit in the tank? If diesel has been in the tank for an extended period what needs to be done ? obviously remove the diesel from the tank but what else ? do the injectors need to be cleaned? Is a chemical treatment required?

BigE

[BigE]

My way

any more thoughts or knowledge on the D3 engine would be appreciated, I have no experience at all, what makes the servicing dearer that others is it the actual engine model or just that it is a Volvo? any ball park on what temp range and oil pressure is acceptable?

Thanks for the mirror tip , was going to use a selfie stick.

BigE

[gofishin]

I would suggest that you also seriously consider engaging an experienced Volvo guy to check the engine over, as you might not find a marine surveyor that knows the current Volvos. Might cost more but it will be money very well spent. Don't know anyone to suggest but if you are stuck I might be able to get a recommendation for you.
Cheers


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[Smithy]

I have just started using a diesel additive called Fuel Right. Expensive but working for some friends of mine who did suffer a bout of algae. They have a US import which all seem to get it for some reason. Maybe the few months coming over on the big ships. Fuel Doctor did nothing for them but this Fuel Right has seen their filters coming out perfect and nothing in the centrifuge, not full of stringy algae like it was. They like it so much they have taken over the Qld distibutorship. I can get about 10-15mm of sludge in my Racor and both filters will be black on my boat with tiny bits of algae on my primary Racor after say 3-400 hours. I look forward to see how mine look this next change.

[Seahuff]

I agree with gofishin, get someone with D3 Volvo and sterndrive experience to check it out, they will also give you an idea on likely costs if something does go majorly wrong, leg problems for example.

[BigE]

Thanks gofishin and smithy

Don't know any Volvo specialists but think that having someone with D3 experience would be an advantage. Thanks for the tip on diesel additive have heard about the diesel issue but never had any experience with dealing with it or how it affects engines.

BigE

[terryc]

One question i would be asking is what caused the original motor to ingress water, is it likely to happen again or has the problem been fixed. If it was Reversion, where there is not sufficient riser height in exhaust & suddenly stopping can cause water to flood back into the motor this may be a design flaw. I may be totally off course but worth considering. I don't mind the sterndrive setup works well for me. The diesel could be a great asset if all is well, good luck.

[gofishin]

Since I have read recent posts...

... I really like the boat layout (so does the minster) and i have an appropriate tow vehicle and shed, but i keep coming back to what happen if the diesel is a dud or has issues...Given that it seems to really suit your needs, maybe you should look at it from another angle Ian. Firstly, consider how close the likely purchase price will be to the max budget you originally set yourself. If on the limit, and any inspections raise more questions than allay fears, time to walk away.

However, if well under your original budget, and assuming everything checks out fine now, snap it up at a great price for a diesel cruiser, and offset any unexpected costs - if they arise - against the budget surplus. The Volvo man should be able to provide ideas on possible 'unexpected items' etc, and also advise re bilge blowers and any dry/cool air supply improvements, which can be added relatively cheaply.


...
My understanding is the original engine died from water ingress and a new long motor was install via insurance ...Like Terry suggested, need to find out more. Water ingress as in wet moist air into the engine bay, or back up the turbo, or thru the universal boot and into engine ??? etc...



...#Thanks for the D3 data really appreciate that...Got the full doc off the net, let me know if you want it and can't find it. 


BTW
Spoke to the boat builder this is the only diesel stern drive they have made, he did say he liked the boat and it went well...The boat tested by Webster, in the excerpt I provided, only had a 130 Honda!!! So the D3 should be a speed demon in comparison .


One question i would be asking is what caused the original motor to ingress water.... x 2.

Does the tank (and floor) have an access hatch into the tank?

Cheers
Brendon



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[BigE]

water ingress was supposed to be from rain while the boat was moored, rain drained into the motor bilge and eventually the bilge pumps drained the battery and water filled the engine compartment which is lower than the self draining deck. So there is a design fault if the boat is moored, on a trailer with bungs out no design issue.

Tank is under the floor but does have access via a screwed down deck panel which i am assuming is the same size as the tank.
BigE

[Alchemy]

On the water ingress issue; I make sure my engine is running before it slides off the trailer. The exhaust pressure stops water being forced back up. In reality, I need to give mine a few revs to get moving off the trailer, so I have no option but to have running, but worth keeping in mind if you do buy it.

Exhaust blowers are cheap and easy to install too, so don't let that put you off.

[BigE]

any thoughts on what is acceptable oil pressure ? I am thinking with the low hours it should be reasonable high. same for water temp any thoughts on acceptable temp.

BigE

[Alchemy]

any thoughts on what is acceptable oil pressure ? I am thinking with the low hours it should be reasonable high. same for water temp any thoughts on acceptable temp.

BigE

i reckon you need to get info from someone in the game. Maybe Jim from Aqua Mobile Marine? I can tell you that my engine runs 90-95c when cruising. The mob in Italy confirmed this is within spec. My cruising oil pressure is about 6 bar which I think is about 75/80psi.

I googled the D3 160 and found it is a 3 litre 5 cylinder which only weighs 215kg due to an alloy construction. My engine is a 2.4 litre 5 cylinder with cast block and weighs from memory about 320kg (both are engine weights only) and pushes out 240hp. Clearly some big differences between these engines, so my running stats may not have any relevance to the D3.

[The Woo]

A relative had a pair of D3's in a semi displacement cat..... if only you could turn back time and not spec those engines. One especially notable failure was an engine oil cooler, killed an engine, and took a mammoth bill to repair it while travelling up on the west coast of the Cape.
Not cool. Tread very carefully.

[BigE]

Thanks Woo
any real world feedback on D3's is very welcome as i am very new to the diesel inboard world so any experiences good or bad are helpful.
any info on oil pressure water temp and cruising economy would be welcome.

BigE

[myusernam]

i recently looked into and missed out on boat with a kad32 (older motor) apparently the d3's when they came out were a bit of a disaster. the old story i guess never buy the new model
Same same with the new yanmar.
here read this thread from kiwi land on the d3.
http://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/surtees-67-sports-fisher-with-diesel-inboard_topic76152.html

[Smithy]

Which Yanmars are they? The V8 turbo 350/380s?

[myusernam]

Which Yanmars are they? The V8 turbo 350/380s?

the 6by2. there were massive recalls etc. they ended up recalling every gen 1 and making them a gen 2 I think.
the older one thats basically a 6 cyl toyota landcruiser engine is meant to be awesome (mechanical). the 6by2 is based on an alloy bmw m3 car engine? not so much. (even the yanmar guy told me) but they have by and large got their issues sorted out i think. . missed out on that boat too!
6by2 issues all over net.
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?232732-Volvo-vs-yanmar

[MyWay]

BigE
So many of the D3 don't have oil pressure gauge they come with just alarm , if this boat got oil pressure gauge the oil pressure it will depends on so many tings like temperature , RPM and oil may have additives in, or could be new ,or old ,etc etc so it is hard to say to till some expert have look .
You just have to go on that boat test 8-)
you will just love the diesel sound and the way the boat with inboard ride.
good luck

[Smithy]

myusername, where do you stand on the KAD or KAMD Volvo 260s with the compressor? I've heard there has been a few failures with them if used at idle. I was looking at a boat with one but he had a switch that you could turn it on or off so at idle it was off but if you wanted more herbs cruising he could turn it on. Another guy then said that was risky as you risk overfueling and then liners picking up etc, etc. and compressors were only $4K. That's still $4K you have to come up with every now an again. I'm getting my Yanmar turbos rebuilt for $900-1,200 by comparison.

[myusernam]

hi smithy im really no authority at all having never owned one, just did a bit of checking as i was thinking of buying the boat. Bit dirty I missed out on it. anyhoo from what I could find out they are pretty good - Older engine. Hull truth seemd to agree they were ok. But the usual disclaimer that any volvo has rediculous part prices. Everyone it seems laments the dying out of the mechanical diesel (even my farmer mate reckons he can't by a non electronic tractor anymore) Driven by emission laws i think I read. Even the yanmar guy said they held out selling the toyota based one for as long as they could/ stocked up etc.
Do you use toyota parts for yours?

[The Woo]

Don't do it Smithy.

[Smithy]

Yep been reading all the links off this thread. NZers don't seem to like their "green devils"! Only know of one boat with the new V8 Yanmars. Too early to tell yet with it. It doesn't fish hard enough. I'm at 12,800hrs on my 4lha-STP. Gav from Seaprobe Charters bought up his 10,000hours on his 6LY2A 440hps through the year. Going good for us!

[BigE]

Guys
thanks for all the reply's and opinions, I have decided to keep looking as i am just not comfortable with the power plant and the info i can get on the boats history but i do appreciate everyone's input and thoughts.

BigE