Looking at putting in a Livewell into my 12 foot Punt for Tournaments. Ideas needed

[Parrot_King]

Hi All,

I currently have a 12 foot square nose Punt and have been thinking about entering in some Bass Tournaments. My only issue is i don't have a livewell to keep the fish in.

Can anyone suggest some simple ideas on how i can achieve this? From memory the minimum size in 60 litres.

Look forward to hearing and seeing your suggestions and ideas on this. Photos would be much appreciated.

regards Mike

[Coontakinta]

I found the easiest and cheapest way to achieve this was to get a 60 litre esky and pipe up a bilge pump with a spray bar to recirculate the water.
Sure you had to manual fill and change the water but it worked and was far cheaper than the alternative. Besides, it was also removeable when not needed and the esky was still useable for its proper use of keeping things cold.
Otherwise look at some of the kayaking sites for ideas on how to make up a fully kitted job. Reckon there is a good one in Indepth angler

[Parrot_King]

I found the easiest and cheapest way to achieve this was to get a 60 litre esky and pipe up a bilge pump with a spray bar to recirculate the water.
Sure you had to manual fill and change the water but it worked and was far cheaper than the alternative. Besides, it was also removeable when not needed and the esky was still useable for its proper use of keeping things cold.
Otherwise look at some of the kayaking sites for ideas on how to make up a fully kitted job. Reckon there is a good one in Indepth angler

Thanks Coontakinta,

Sounds fairly easy, very doable and it can be used for drinks also.

How often would you do a water change?

Regards Mike

[Coontakinta]

I live in SA mate so might be different to you blokes in the warmer climes, but on a hot summers day, maybe 2-3 hourly but i used to just gauge the temperament of the fish & feel the water temp by hand. If I thought a change was warranted, then I would bucket most of it out & refill with fresh.
Thought I had a picture of my set up somewhere, but must've deleted it coz I cant find it and my new boat has one built in.

Here's the IDA article I mentioned.
http://www.indepthangler.com.au/diy/diy-hobie-kayak-livewell-electric-pump-upgrade/

Whilst doing some research on a livewell for my kayak, I found this.
https://www.google.com.au/search?tbm=isch&tbs=rimg%3ACckfJgZR9vI3IjjhsQiCepLlxVmI_1T5fH3uRtT JBdKrXNCO-xXkO_1OOw-b8npyn_1Ro7kcdHKwO9r8tX0qRv-myw6QSoSCeGxCIJ6kuXFESlCSZTova4IKhIJWYj9Pl8fe5ERJy us4AQLXW0qEgm1MkF0qtc0IxFNuOvJPqI8RyoSCb7FeQ7847D5 EatXhDJO3uJMKhIJvyenKf9GjuQRdNUWfaaMhyAqEglx0crA72 vy1REvBWYG2GNMlCoSCfSpG_16bLDpBEb6zj7iSZEde&q&bih=979&biw=1920&ved=0ahUKEwjkzcDL1sLOAhUONpQKHWgXCMcQ9C8ICQ&dpr=1

lots of images there. Hope it helps

[Dignity]

Parrot king, just remember that is around 55kg you will be adding allowing for some space at the top. Years ago when I used to have to keep, fish live for the Fraser Island comp we had a live fish tank on the back of the cruiser, to change the water we would bring clean water to the truck and replace the aerator with a hose over the side and the water will pump out and when the water gets down a fair bit then syphon in the clean water. One thing with salt water fish in particular is the build up of ammonia from their waste and this is what kills most fish and bait so if you can try a set up that gers rid of the bottom third of thd waterfolumn.

[Parrot_King]

I live in SA mate so might be different to you blokes in the warmer climes, but on a hot summers day, maybe 2-3 hourly but i used to just gauge the temperament of the fish & feel the water temp by hand. If I thought a change was warranted, then I would bucket most of it out & refill with fresh.
Thought I had a picture of my set up somewhere, but must've deleted it coz I cant find it and my new boat has one built in.

Here's the IDA article I mentioned.
http://www.indepthangler.com.au/diy/diy-hobie-kayak-livewell-electric-pump-upgrade/

Whilst doing some research on a livewell for my kayak, I found this.
https://www.google.com.au/search?tbm=isch&tbs=rimg%3ACckfJgZR9vI3IjjhsQiCepLlxVmI_1T5fH3uRtT JBdKrXNCO-xXkO_1OOw-b8npyn_1Ro7kcdHKwO9r8tX0qRv-myw6QSoSCeGxCIJ6kuXFESlCSZTova4IKhIJWYj9Pl8fe5ERJy us4AQLXW0qEgm1MkF0qtc0IxFNuOvJPqI8RyoSCb7FeQ7847D5 EatXhDJO3uJMKhIJvyenKf9GjuQRdNUWfaaMhyAqEglx0crA72 vy1REvBWYG2GNMlCoSCfSpG_16bLDpBEb6zj7iSZEde&q&bih=979&biw=1920&ved=0ahUKEwjkzcDL1sLOAhUONpQKHWgXCMcQ9C8ICQ&dpr=1

lots of images there. Hope it helps

Thanks coontakinta,

That's great. I'm wondering if there is an easier way of emptying the bottom half of the water out other than bucketing it out? Something quick as every minute in a tournament is precious to find that big one.

Cheers mike

[Parrot_King]

Parrot king, just remember that is around 55kg you will be adding allowing for some space at the top. Years ago when I used to have to keep, fish live for the Fraser Island comp we had a live fish tank on the back of the cruiser, to change the water we would bring clean water to the truck and replace the aerator with a hose over the side and the water will pump out and when the water gets down a fair bit then syphon in the clean water. One thing with salt water fish in particular is the build up of ammonia from their waste and this is what kills most fish and bait so if you can try a set up that gers rid of the bottom third of thd waterfolumn.

Thanks dignity,

Yes I have thought about the extra weight but there's no way around it unfortunately. Yes the bottom half of the water must be replaced regularly if the fish are to stay healthy but I'm still trying to work out the fastest w as y of doing this. Any ideas?

Cheers mike

[myusernam]

I have an 80l esky as a livebait tank. Depending on how much you load it and how sensitive the baits are (herring and prawns for example) there really is no substitute for fresh water. You can try and extend recirculated water with ice. Its not so much the aeration thats the problem (I have a keepalive unit that aerates very well), its the heat and all of the pee or whatever they emitt when they're stressed. I have had dead loss even when I am driving from my bait spot to the water. raw water intake is the go. (I just plumb my raw water intake to said esky. Hose tucks out of way when not in use / esky removed. Doubles as a deckwash
'

[Parrot_King]

I have an 80l esky as a livebait tank. Depending on how much you load it and how sensitive the baits are (herring and prawns for example) there really is no substitute for fresh water. You can try and extend recirculated water with ice. Its not so much the aeration thats the problem (I have a keepalive unit that aerates very well), its the heat and all of the pee or whatever they emitt when they're stressed. I have had dead loss even when I am driving from my bait spot to the water. raw water intake is the go. (I just plumb my raw water intake to said esky. Hose tucks out of way when not in use / esky removed. Doubles as a deckwash
'

Thanks myusernam,

Yes fresh water is the only real solution from what ive been hearing/reading. So i would need a pump on the transom with a hose connected to the esky and on a timer so it automatically fills and empties water at each set interval. is this correct? Is it better to have the new water coming into the tank at the bottom or the top? Should i have the new water coming in via an aerator system?

cheers Mike

[myusernam]

Thanks myusernam,

Yes fresh water is the only real solution from what ive been hearing/reading. So i would need a pump on the transom with a hose connected to the esky and on a timer so it automatically fills and empties water at each set interval. is this correct? Is it better to have the new water coming into the tank at the bottom or the top? Should i have the new water coming in via an aerator system?

cheers Mike
fresh water from bottom. waste water from top. Timer optional ($60) i just turn mine off and on manually or leave on. Aeration not required. Cheap non return valve close to tank good idea. Also where waste water exits try and rig up some sort of long filter as herring blocking the drain grill all the time pisses me off. I am experimenting with a long piece of pipe with long cuts

[Parrot_King]

fresh water from bottom. waste water from top. Timer optional ($60) i just turn mine off and on manually or leave on. Aeration not required. Cheap non return valve close to tank good idea. Also where waste water exits try and rig up some sort of long filter as herring blocking the drain grill all the time pisses me off. I am experimenting with a long piece of pipe with long cuts

Thanks myusernam,

That's what i thought too. a timer is just an added luxury that isn't really required so ill leave that one out for now. are all non return valves suitable or are there some better than others? As for the long filter do you mean a price of PVC pipe sitting horizontal at the top of the water line with slits cut in it as the overflow to try and stop any blockages?

regards Mike

[myusernam]

Yep. Double your discharge pipe dia to intake. I used cheap plastic skin fittings from boat shop. Any 1 way valve. Mines a cheapy. $3 ball type. Stops syphoning tank empty when you switch off pump

[scottar]

If you run the inlet in high and then down internally and have a small hole to break any siphon, you don't need a non return valve.

[Parrot_King]

Yep. Double your discharge pipe dia to intake. I used cheap plastic skin fittings from boat shop. Any 1 way valve. Mines a cheapy. $3 ball type. Stops syphoning tank empty when you switch off pump

Thanks myusernam,

I will take not of the double size outlet. time to start looking for parts as the esky sounds like the most expensive item.

cheers Mike

[Dignity]

Here is a document that Scottar sent me a while ago which gives you an idea of what it looks like plumbed in, you may need to put a T section in somewhere with a tap so that you can divert water from the bottom. The main difference with this setup is that this is taking in clean oxygenated water, pushing ammonia and crap up from the bottom to overflow, your set up depends on aerating the existing water and will always be compromise. Yakkas will live forever, slimmies and herring are less hardy and do need the extra care. I found best not to overcrowd them and with herrings a round black bucket is much better than a white one, they seem to settle more.

[Parrot_King]

If you run the inlet in high and then down internally and have a small hole to break any siphon, you don't need a non return valve.

Thanks Scottar,

Thats a good point as i already have one of those flowrite aerators that run down internally and aerate the water. could i use that?

Its this one https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?cat=136&item=66762&intAbsolutePage=3

regards Mike

[Dignity]

Oops, there's been a few posts since I last read it at lunch time, got visitors, so ignore what doesn't apply

[Parrot_King]

Here is a document that Scottar sent me a while ago which gives you an idea of what it looks like plumbed in, you may need to put a T section in somewhere with a tap so that you can divert water from the bottom. The main difference with this setup is that this is taking in clean oxygenated water, pushing ammonia and crap up from the bottom to overflow, your set up depends on aerating the existing water and will always be compromise. Yakkas will live forever, slimmies and herring are less hardy and do need the extra care. I found best not to overcrowd them and with herrings a round black bucket is much better than a white one, they seem to settle more.

Thanks Dignity,

The diagram is very detailed and looks good. A black bucket doesn't sound like a bad idea if chasing Mangrove jack for the day. Should be able to keep around 10 slimies/herrings in there easily?

cheers Mike

[scottar]

Thanks Scottar,

Thats a good point as i already have one of those flowrite aerators that run down internally and aerate the water. could i use that?

Its this one https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?cat=136&item=66762&intAbsolutePage=3

regards Mike


Perfect for the job Mike.

[Smithy]

I just used to use an 80l Evakool. A good fibreglass box is good start. Their thermal properties will keep them from heating up too much. I just had a bilge pump and a spray bar set up on a bit of alloy that was like a Z shape if you can imagine that. It could hang off the top of the esky, spray bar at the top and bilge pump mounted on the bottom section.

[ozscott]

http://www.keepalive.net/guide.htm

I have this system. I got the one that you dunk in an esky. Tiny bubbles work best versus most on the market. Cheers

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[myusernam]

Yes i have a keepalive unit when not using raw water. The best imho

[ozscott]

From memory keep alive do a system for permanent mounting where fresh water is also cycled through. Those little bubbles are the key to getting oxygen rich water to the fish... Plus if my hand is anything to go by the fish will feel calm and massaged by those little bubbles... . Cheers

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[Parrot_King]

http://www.keepalive.net/guide.htm

I have this system. I got the one that you dunk in an esky. Tiny bubbles work best versus most on the market. Cheers

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Thanks ozscott,

what are these keepalive systems worth?

If i use the one i currently have that will mean a hole must be drilled in the esky which i am reluctant to do.

cheers Mike

[ozscott]

Hey mate it was too long ago to recall. But no holes for esky use required. Cheers

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[Parrot_King]

Hey mate it was too long ago to recall. But no holes for esky use required. Cheers

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Thanks ozscott,

sounds like the go and perfect for what i need.

Regular water changes are still required right?

regards Mike

[ozscott]

Mike I haven't had stuff swimming in mine long enough to say but it would be species dependent. I think the Web site says something about this. Cheers

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk