Cruisecraft outsider 575 porpoising 135 optimax

[Hillbillyfish]

Hi All, so I recently purchased a second hand outsider 575 with a 135hp outboard. It's porpoising alot a high speeds and especially if I run into low long intervel swell. I probably need to move more weight forward, however I also feel as though I cannot trim my bow down enough. I don't want to lower my outboard further as it seems to be throwing alot of water as it is. I'm also running a mercury vengeance prop 17 pitch. Any ideas will help. Thanks.

[gofishin]

... I probably need to move more weight forward, however I also feel as though I cannot trim my bow down enough. I don't want to lower my outboard further as it seems to be throwing alot of water as it is...Hillbilly, If you feel you can't trim your bow down enough, and the motor is throwing a lot of spray, you certainly don't want to lower your donk. You need to raise it. This should also help reduce/stop porpoising.


... I'm also running a mercury vengeance prop 17 pitch. Any ideas will help. Thanks. How much grip does this prop have? How far can you trim out before it starts to ventilate? And does this change much between a rough day and a calm day?

Take a mate out and check height of A/V plate. Plenty of posts on here lately about this [emoji1].
Cheers
Brendon

[Hillbillyfish]

Thanks for the reply,

I seem to be able to trim it out a long way before if vents. When u talk about how much grip the prop has I'm not quite sure what your meaning.. I'm finding in the rough as soon as I slow down to a comfortable speed my bow is to high in the air and i'm landed on the middle to arse end of the boat. Maybe the outboard being to low is dragging the rear of the boat down and forcing the front up?? Also I find when I'm doing high speeds in calm water the boat will be okay until I hit the tinniest amount of swell and then off she goes porpoising like crazy until I slow down a bit and settle it out.

I'm going to shift some weight forward, if I was to cut the boat into half there would be so much more weight at the back. Especially being a walk around cab I think it makes it worse (because the cab is further back in boat and therefore forces people weight ect further back. I might try some sand bags in Toilet area up front and also sand bags in anchor well plus outboard up 2 holes just to see how it performs.

Also do you think I should consider a 4 blade prop, Or for an extra $700 just go for trim tabs. I'm thinking the cruise craft would appreciate the trim tabs as I would be able to lean into or away from side swell better. I'm not to worried about top end speed I just want to be able to cruise at 20 knots in sloppy conditions with the v doing its job.

Cheers

[Chris Tucker]

ah no stop......

Here we go again...........

A boat porpoises when its centre of gravity is forward of the centre of lift. This is why really fast boats often have a large engine pod. It moves the centre of lift forward without the centre of gravity moving. So if you add weight in the front of the boat you'll almost certainly make the problem worse. Likewise putting the engine lower will cause the boat to trim more which moves the lift aft and makes the porpoising worse.

Step one. remove any crap you've got in the bow especially if you're carrying excessive amounts of chain.
Step two. Jack the engine up. I'd go all the way and then drop it back down a bit if you need to. You might find it still porpoises even with it all the way up. In which case you'd be wasting your time with halfway measures.
Step three. fit a hydrofoil to the engine. In this case think of the foil as the tail of a plane, it works automatically due to its location to offset changing in trim (or attitude) of the boat.

[scottar]

I suspect there was a slight communication issue when Hillbilly posted " I don't want to lower my outboard further as it seems to be throwing alot of water as it is". Personally I took that as I don't want to trim it in any further.

As the lads above have posted - the issue may well be the engine is mounted too far down on the transom. Getting this right may well cure your issues in regard to the porpoising. If once your engine height is correct, you then have a problem with the prop "blowing out" or losing grip in swelly conditions, a different prop will be on the cards - possibly a 4 blade or a large blade 3 blade.

A foil is then an option or a set of tabs. The foil being the cheapest and easiest. The trim tabs providing the most versatile solution.

[Hillbillyfish]

Okay I just assumed a little extra weight in the bow would help hold in deeper in the water when It was rough. I cant seem to trim the nose of the boat into the water as much as I would like. Other boats I have owned have been heavier in the bow and have seemed to ride better, or at least had the capacity to dig the nose in when the going got tough. I don't seem to have that option at the moment as the boat seems to flighty up front.

[Tim_N]

Hillbillyfish,
Put a True Tracker Plate on it, and the rig will be transformed.
I can't speak highly enough of these foils.
Go to www.solas.com.au and check them out.
Tim

[terryc]

I had the same on a Cruisecraft 500, the previous owner had put a 25" Outboard on a 20" transom, when i finally got the height right everything was good.

[Moonlighter]

I know some people are devotees of foils, and i certainly believe that they have a role to play.

But before you go throwing foils on, you really should try to address the real cause of the issue, not just the symptoms. And rhere's a fair to good chance that the root cause is an engine that is buried too deep. It all about the physics and angle of thrust.

It is a somewhat chronic problem, as lots of dealers mount engines too deep - typically they seem to do this to avoid possible complaints about props ventilating. But getting the engine height right will significantly enhance the way the boat rides, and can address issues like a "bow up" attitude and porpoising.

So please listen to the people saying to address the engine height issue.

Its not that difficult to lift the engine height yourself with a couple of mates. Using the trailer jockey wheel method. Done it on a few boats, as have many others. If your're keen to give it a try let us know and we will explain how it works. Quite simple, and safe, with a bit of sensible care.

[Chris Tucker]

Okay I just assumed a little extra weight in the bow would help hold in deeper in the water when It was rough. I cant seem to trim the nose of the boat into the water as much as I would like. Other boats I have owned have been heavier in the bow and have seemed to ride better, or at least had the capacity to dig the nose in when the going got tough. I don't seem to have that option at the moment as the boat seems to flighty up front.

Having the engine too low will also make the bow seem light. Imagine your boat when viewed from side on with a pin put through the middle of the boat at the water line. When you apply horizontal thrust at the props the boat will spin around the pin and the bow will lift. Lift the engines and the lever arm becomes smaller so the same amount of thrust wont lift the bow as much.

[Hillbillyfish]

I will definatly be lifting the outboard. The only thing is the vent/cave plate is level with the bottom of the boat.

[cwcarter]

I will definatly be lifting the outboard. The only thing is the vent/cave plate is level with the bottom of the boat.

You can definitely go higher if that's the case. Mines at about an inch above the bottom, not the same boat as yours though.

[scottar]

On mine I am about 50 mm higher than the V. The Cruisecraft having a plank at the stern rather than a V may well not let you lift as high (Brendon may have a better idea here - pretty sure he has played with props on a bigger one quite extensively). The thing to do is go one hole at a time unless it is glaringly obvious it is miles too low. The longest wait time in the whole lifting process is waiting for the sealant to dry. If you have a compressor and an air ratchet, you can have the whole job done inside half an hour once you know what your doing.

[Moonlighter]

I will definatly be lifting the outboard. The only thing is the vent/cave plate is level with the bottom of the boat.

That's not a reliable way to assess correct engine height.

I will probably cop a flogging, again, but ..... Here goes:

The best way to assess engine height is to get the boat onto a medium/fast planing speed, engine trimmed out to optimum, then get someone trustworthy to hold the wheeel while you go down to the transom, look over the back and try to see the cav/anti-vent plate (the largest flat plate above the prop).

If is buried DEEP under water so you cant see it at all, the motor is too deep and should be raised. Especially if currently there is little tendency for the prop to lose grip in turns, following seas etc. so raise one hole, and test again. If still too deep and prop still hangs on real good, you can go up another hole, and then test again.

Now there are some varied opinions on this forum about how this plate should be running relative to the water surface when the boats on the plane like described above. One says 12mm below the surface, many others say generally skimming the surface or getting splashed, others say theirs runs perfectly well when its 12mm clear above the surface.

But I havent heard anyone, yet, suggest that its a good idea for it to be buried any deeper than 12mm under the surface, at least not on a fibreglass offshore V hull like yours.

So its probably safe (i hope!) to say it should be running close to the surface.

Then, once you get it there, things like prop selection and specific hull characteristics tend to be the determinant of the final engine height selected.

(Standing by for incoming.....)

[Moonlighter]

By the way, the following describes how I and others I know lift motors using the trailer jockey wheel.

Lifting outboard motors to higher hole - the jockey wheel method.

This method can also be used to lower motors, just adjust which way you wind the jockey wheel.

Doing it this way you dont even need to disconnect anything, (steeering, cables etc) provided of course you assess that nothing is going to foul anywhere during the process. Ive never had to disconnect anything using this method.


Resources required:
- Spanners/socket correct size for nuts and bolts holding engine on.
- You, plus 2 mates, preferably reasonably solid units! No wimps please.


Park boat-trailer on a flat surface and chock the wheels, front and back, so it wont move. Then:
- Trim motor down so it is vertical, maybe just a little bit trimmed out.
- Place a block of solid wood on ground under the skeg. You may need to put some bricks etc under it to make a stable platform, so the block of wood is just 1 or 2 cm below the skeg.
- You go to front of trailer and wind jockey wheel up - this means that the engine lowers at the back, so that its weight is now solidly taken by the skeg sitting on the block of wood. The skeg is plenty strong enough to carry the weight of the engine. The wood acts as a cushion.
- Now go back to the motor.
- Loosen off nuts. Your 2 mates are steadying the motor from each side while you do this. Bear hugs. Keeping it balanced is the idea. Not very difficult to do. Just be careful to not let it overbalance.
- Depending on the motor bracket, you might have to take the top bolts all the way out but may be able to leave the bottom ones in, but with nuts removed or loosened if they are in slots in the bracket.
- Mates now carefully tilt the motor back just enough so the bolts are able to get out and you can scrape/clean the old sika from around the bolt holes and engine bracket.
- You then go around to the jockey wheel again and wind it up a bit more, your mates tell you how far to go so the bolts will line up with the new holes on the bracket that you want to use.
- You come back round to the motor, apply fresh sika around the bolt holes and bracket as required, then you and your mates gently tilt/slide the motor back over the bolts and get the nuts back on and tightened up.


Done.

[Hillbillyfish]

Okay sounds easy enough. As I also mentioned i'm running a mercury vengeance stainless prop with a 17 pitch. Does this sound right for this outboard boat combo. I did hit the rev limiter alarm once when I had it trimmed out and running on smooth water. Cheers

[Moonlighter]

Wait till you lift the motor to optimum height, because apart from the other benefits, an engine set to correct height also can deliver increased WOT rpm and speed. So, get the height right first, then play with props. If you are hitting the limiter occionally now, fair chance that you will hit it more after lifting, so a prop change might be considered, or getting it cupped.

I had a Vengeance on my Tohatsu. Good props, but they are regarded as a kind of entry level stainless prop by most people.

See todays post by cwcarter re setting the Merc up and you will see that he lifted motor first then changed props. His eco props are a higher end prop, as are the powertech 4 blades he ended up using.

He also put up really excellent videos that show you how he set his engine height, the difference it made lifting it, and how he checked and could see the cav plate when it was optimised for his boat.

[gofishin]

Having the engine too low will also make the bow seem light. Imagine your boat when viewed from side on with a pin put through the middle of the boat at the water line. When you apply horizontal thrust at the props the boat will spin around the pin and the bow will lift. Lift the engines and the lever arm becomes smaller so the same amount of thrust wont lift the bow as much.You should have been round on here a few years ago Chris, I had all sorts of dramas convincing some people that a low prop/thrust line creates a higher more flighty bow, and vice versa [emoji1].


Hillbilly,
Cruisy's love a highish prop, especially the Outsiders (and a 4 blade).

Cheers
Brendon

PS. Follow Moonlighter's post above re changing motor height and you'll be sweet. If you have access to a shed/overhead lifting point & rigging (forklift?), one less man required.

[Hillbillyfish]

Hey thanks, I checked out cwcarters post and it was very very helpful. Cant get over how much the 4 blade prop stopped the arse end digging in when he took off. It's looking very likely ill be going the outboard lift + 4 blade + Trim tabs (one day). Once again thanks to everyone for there input. Others please feel free to add there experience.

[scottar]

PS. Follow Moonlighter's post above re changing motor height and you'll be sweet. If you have access to a shed/overhead lifting point & rigging (forklift?), one less man required.

I do this on my own.......One less man it gets tricky:P

[gofishin]

I do this on my own.......One less man it gets tricky:P

Yeah, been there too Scotty (well not 'no men' I mean [emoji1]), it's just a pain getting in & out to free up & move the damn spanner [emoji1].

[Gimme5]

I used to own the CC Outsider 575 with a 150hp OB for 6 years and had the same problem as you when it first came out of the showroom. From my experience, you don't need tabs or foils. I raised the engine by 2 holes (cav plate ended up a good 2-3 inches above the keel) and stuck a Rev4 on it. It was a completely different boat. Gone were the porpoising, I could keep the boat on plane at much lower revs in rough seas, trim the motor 3/4 way up, never had a problem with the prop blowing out, higher WOT and speed and better economy. I would echo Moonlighter's advice. Good luck.

[gofishin]

On mine I am about 50 mm higher than the V. The Cruisecraft having a plank at the stern rather than a V may well not let you lift as high...This is true Scott (and BTW the keel plank runs near full length too).

You can get it up there (~50 above or more), but it is more difficult (than a Std V hull) and generally/mostly relies on a very good 'and' suitable 4 blade prop, not just a large blade area 3 bld.

Hilly, a CC (post ~2000, 625's & 685's, current style) with any decent SS prop in good/new condition (not tip dinged or even slightly bent), with Yams or Mercs, should have the plate ~20-25 above the plank (when parallel to it) 'as a starting point'. This is how they are set up at the factory if they fit the motor. I don't expect the 575's to be any different.

Can't say this holds for Zukes, E-TECS and Hondas, haven't played with these combos) . As yours is level (??), one hole will give you approx 19mm lift depending on the Opti hole centres. You will probably not get 2 holes out of the Vengence. But, if you do bounce on the limiter after the lift (at neutral trim), get an inch of cup added (and prop tuned for pitch). It won't be the best option, but will get you thru while finding the right one, and can then keep as a spare.

As you will read a lot about, what prop works very well on one boat may not necessarily work as well on another with a different donk (and I am not talking about gear ratio differences either).


... The thing to do is go one hole at a time unless it is glaringly obvious it is miles too low...Yep I agree 100%, unless glaringly obvious or you have done it so often you have a good feel for it, absolutely the best method for most guys starting to play with engine height, as it provides a progressive change and hence a reference to go back to if you end up with unwanted traits from being too high - or while you are obtaining different props to try [emoji6].
Cheers
Brendon
PS. And forget a good stable plane just at 20kn, want to get much lower than that - which you will do.

[scottar]

Yeah, been there too Scotty (well not 'no men' I mean [emoji1]), it's just a pain getting in & out to free up & move the damn spanner [emoji1].

I'm lucky. My bottom bolts are that well sika'd they don't move so I can do the whole lot from the outside - just keep a very close eye on them as I tighten them up. Have thought about making capture plates for the inside if it ever does become an issue. Deep series sockets and an air ratchet are king when it comes to winding the top bolts out. You do usually need to crack them manually first.

[gofishin]

... and stuck a Rev4 on it. It was a completely different boat..I have found that the REV 4's are by far the best prop for the 685's (with yam 250/300's) too Gimme, in 17's and 19's depending on donk and gear ratio. Awesome grip & great performance. Same for 250 V-rod I was told by another chappie also playing with props on his 685.

Initially Mercury did not recommend them on less than 200's, as they are a big heavy 'wheel' and obviously impose decent inertia loads. A few years ago a mate put one on the new 150 Merc 4/ with the dealers blessing, who advised Merc had relaxed their stance on the min HP limit. Maybe it had the Flo-Torq IV hub to help reduce loads on the box, not sure.

What donk was yours Gimme and what pitch? Any harsh clunking/rattles in/out of gear and at low speeds?
Cheers
Brendon

[Duckfish]

Hi Hillbilly. Been thru the same problem when I had my 550 Outsider with the 150 Opti. This was my fix. I had trim tabs already fitted. Diidn't fix the porpoising unless I trimmed then down enough for that to stop but of course my speed suffered but in terms of leveling the boat, great. The next thing I did was to fit a Permatrim foil and that fixed my problem. The cav plate or whatever its called was riding just a bit higher then the bottom of the boat so when it was travelling you could just see it. Anyway that was my fix so good luck in your endeavors.

[Gimme5]

Hey Brendon. Had a Zuke and ran a 21P with a Flo Torq IV. The FT IV reduced the shift clunk and rattle but did not totally eliminate it. Learned to live with it after a while but it did initially drove me nuts! Then came the Yammy F150 on my next boat and it too clunked and rattled between 700-1200 rpms regardless of stock 3 blade or 4 blade Solas. I came to the conciusion that most of these SST props are OK but just a tad heavy for a 150hp. You won't get clunks and rattles with an alloy prop or the Yammy black SST 3 blade prop which is a lot lighter.

I have found that the REV 4's are by far the best prop for the 685's (with yam 250/300's) too Gimme, in 17's and 19's depending on donk and gear ratio. Awesome grip & great performance. Same for 250 V-rod I was told by another chappie also playing with props on his 685.

Initially Mercury did not recommend them on less than 200's, as they are a big heavy 'wheel' and obviously impose decent inertia loads. A few years ago a mate put one on the new 150 Merc 4/ with the dealers blessing, who advised Merc had relaxed their stance on the min HP limit. Maybe it had the Flo-Torq IV hub to help reduce loads on the box, not sure.

What donk was yours Gimme and what pitch? Any harsh clunking/rattles in/out of gear and at low speeds?
Cheers
Brendon

[Hillbillyfish]

Hi Duckfish, What sort of prop were you running. Did you try adding extra weight to the front of the boat? Also what type of trim tabs were fitted and were you happy with them?

Cheers

[Duckfish]

Hi Hillbilly. I have sent PMs.

[The Black Unicorn]

Top boat those cruise crafts:-?

[scottar]

Top boat those cruise crafts:-?

Nothing wrong with them at all. Like all boats, if the dealer doesn't get the set up right, you can turn the best hull into an absolute dog. This is/was one of the determining factors in the decision made by the Cruisecraft management team that all their boats would now be factory fitted with engines and come on a factory spec trailer.

[FisHard]

Top boat those cruise crafts:-?
Better than (some) Seafarers!
Oops did I say that outloud?

[scottar]

Better than (some) Seafarers!
Oops did I say that outloud?

Well. Up until now this Seafarer owner had been defending Cruisey's. Just remember - you started it......:P

[gofishin]

Well. Up until now this Seafarer owner had been defending Cruisey's......:PAwww, don't be like that Scotty... don't stop now... we need help sometimes... :) [emoji1]

[scottar]

Awww, don't be like that Scotty... don't stop now... we need help sometimes... :) [emoji1]

Hopefully just not like the blokes down the pin yesterday

http://www.abc.net.au/news/2016-07-19/boat-capsize-polair-rescue-two-men-south-stradbroke/7641498.

Just for the record - don't think it was a Cruisey or a Seafarer. Was probably a Haines :-X

Oh sh*t....now I'm thinking out loud as well.........

[Gon Fishun]

Just for the record - don't think it was a Cruisey or a Seafarer. Was probably a Haines :-X

Oh sh*t....now I'm thinking out loud as well.........[/QUOTE]

Wash your mouth out. :smash:

[Hillbillyfish]

Hi all, so quick update. Just checked and the outboard anti cave plate is around 40mm above the keel at paralell. I also have an se sport 300 mounted and it still seems to porpoise and throw water. I'm reluctant to lift outboard any more because it already seems quiet high. Any further ideas?

[Gon Fishun]

Hi all, so quick update. Just checked and the outboard anti cave plate is around 40mm above the keel at paralell. I also have an se sport 300 mounted and it still seems to porpoise and throw water. I'm reluctant to lift outboard any more because it already seems quiet high. Any further ideas?


On the plane, where does the anticav plate sit. Out of the water? in the water? Is it bow up? bow down? You need to ascertain that before altering things.

[Hillbillyfish]

It's just in the water. But not much. Bow always seems to be up. I drive almost everywhere with outboard tilted all the way in. Even then it feels like it's still not trimmed in enough. Becomes very flighty when it gets rougher.

[gofishin]

Something doesn't sound right Hilly - big time! 40mm up sounds good, one hole higher will probably be too high unless you have a very good prop for your setup.

How was your transom replaced. Was it cut off completely, or glass left in place and work done from the inside?

Can you post a photo from the side with the plate parallel to the keel plank?

[scottar]

Is there a pin that sets the lowest trim position that may have been moved from the lowest setting. With the foil on and trimmed right in it should just about have the bow glued to the water.

[Hillbillyfish]

Transom was done from the inside so hull shell in original condition. Was a great job. He beefed the transom up so maybe some extra weight. Also the trim and tilt is set to the lowest setting. Im thinking i will try put 80kg up from of boat and see what happens. There is so much weight in the back half of boat and nothing towards the front.

[scottar]

Might be worth taking a pic side on with the engine fully trimmed in if you can. Certainly there is a lot more weight at the back but there is a lot less buoyancy up front.

[Hillbillyfish]

Okay, when I get home from work next week ill take a few snaps and upload them.

Cheers

[ozynorts]

Just a suggestion, have you tried talking to Cruisecraft directly?

[NAGG]

Okay I just assumed a little extra weight in the bow would help hold in deeper in the water when It was rough. I cant seem to trim the nose of the boat into the water as much as I would like. Other boats I have owned have been heavier in the bow and have seemed to ride better, or at least had the capacity to dig the nose in when the going got tough. I don't seem to have that option at the moment as the boat seems to flighty up front.

I've got to say - I'm with you here ...... my 5m Seajay with the old 70 yammi & big (60kg) battery in the nose never porpoised . I swapped the motor to a 100 yammi (more weight) & moved the battery back a meter plus added a duel battery really changed the balance . I ended up with a boat that porpoised at mid revs (not bad but you had to trim down) . At speed no issues .
I've just fitted a foil & get to test it over the next 3 days in flat water and at sea ...... So we will see what the outcome is.

Chris

[Hillbillyfish]

I assumed cruise craft wouldn't be interested as it was purchased as a second hand boat. Nagg let me know how you go with your new foil added. I'm thinking I may have to look at outboard wedges to help me get more trim (nose down).

Cheers

[Gon Fishun]

Could it be under powered? Read on the net 135hp to max of 150hp. I have no knowledge of this model boat, but looking at them on the net they appear to need a large motor.

[Hillbillyfish]

It seems to have plenty of power. Gets on the plane easily. Sits on 68km wot, so I have assumed the power is okay.

[terryc]

Years ago when i had a cruise craft i phoned the manufacturers for some advice and found them really helpful

[Hillbillyfish]

Okay i'll give them a call. Anyone in particular I should speak to?

[gofishin]

Okay i'll give them a call. Anyone in particular I should speak to?They are normally a very helpful manufacturer and are very passionate about their boats. I have heard many times about them helping people who have bought 'pre-loved' CC's.

Ask for Justin or Nathan Nicols (owners) or Peter Benston, there are a few others who are very helpful too, but their names escape me ATM. Kevin Nicols (dad) is not around much any more but he is also very helpful if you get hold of him on the off-chance.
Cheers
Brendon

[bden]

I have a 135 opti running the same prop and when I first got it it also did the same thing. Solution and that was 12 years ago fit a SE300 foil. Problem solved. No issues since.

Brett

[Hillbillyfish]

I put a se300 on it a month ago and didn't seem to help. How high above your keel is your cav plate? Also do u have extra weight up the front of your boat??

[Andy56]

Would a jack plate help? It would move the center of gravity back giving you more trim control. You can optimise engine height too. The yanks are heavily into jacks where as we ignore them. Just my thought to what seems to be a long running issue.

[GBC]

You've changed 2 things instead of one. Personally if a foil fixes something on an 18 ft boat, it's masking a symptom that could be fixed better. Get rid of the foil - they don't need them, no good hull does.
Second, the flightiness of the bow and not being able to jam the nose into chop is all about the hull shape - they have broad shoulders and a planing plank - they do that. Tabs will help - expecting to fix it with trim won't. It's a (relatively) little boat and won't stay in the water if you try to run it on the plank in anything but small chop. I had that hull for a few years. They are great at rest, brilliant at slow planing under 20 kts, and a pain in the arse trying to keep up with sig/haines/seafarer equivalent length hulls in chop or offshore - it won't do it, they fly out of the water, but that's how they were designed. You'll come home in a cyclone at 18 MPH in one while seafarers are pointing their noses at the sky.
It sounds a lot to me like you are trying to trim against the planing plank trying to get it to do something it just won't.
As others have said, drag it down to the Hemmant factory or to the showroom and see the boys - you won't find a company with better after sales service. It isn't under powered with a 135. The 550's (same hull) mostly ran 115's.
I'd also run a straightedge along the rear of the hull where it was repaired and confirm it is still true.

[Andy56]

I am thinking about what Chris Tucker said. "porposing happens when the center of gravity is forward of the center of lift".
He then explained that pods are used to bring the center of lift forward. Surely another angle to this is to move the center of gravity back by using a jacking plate. This allows the motor to sit much higher and further back in clearer water The leverage on the plane would make it more responsive to trim. and less to "bump porposing"
I am no expert here, but seems logical to me. The only limitation is the bum heavy look.

[Hillbillyfish]

Hi All, So I just thought id give an update on progress for eliminating cruise craft outsider porposing. So firstly I lifted the motor 1 hole and this helped reduce the proposing, however I still couldn't get the nose of the boat into the water enough. Then I added a "fast tail" hydrofoil and instantly noticed the extra trim I received. I went offshore last week and what a difference, boat just cruised through the 0.5-1m chop with ease no banging at all, the v of the boat is now doing what it was intended to do. The boats ride has been completely transformed. thanks for everyone's help and insight.

[Crunchy]

Foils - awesome bits of kit, wish I could get one.

[Scott79]

Hi All, So I just thought id give an update on progress for eliminating cruise craft outsider porposing. So firstly I lifted the motor 1 hole and this helped reduce the proposing, however I still couldn't get the nose of the boat into the water enough. Then I added a "fast tail" hydrofoil and instantly noticed the extra trim I received. I went offshore last week and what a difference, boat just cruised through the 0.5-1m chop with ease no banging at all, the v of the boat is now doing what it was intended to do. The boats ride has been completely transformed. thanks for everyone's help and insight.

Just curious mate, after raising 1 hole did you try the SE3000 Hydrofoil or just go straight to the "Fast Tail"? Was there a recommendation from someone to try the Fast Tail or was it just a bit of good fortune?

[Hillbillyfish]

I tried the se3000 hydrofoil before I raised the outboard, it made no difference in trim and made the boat handle even worse. Im assuming this was because the se3000 was to far into the water and the curved corners made it bite in. I'm a real fan of the "fast tail" because it seems to be a natural progression from the outboard anti cav plate, just increases the surface area. I would highly recommend the fast tail after using both on a different amounts of boats. Super happy owner now.