Flushing Drum for F150

[Scott79]

Guys,
Can anyone recommend a flushing drum for a 150? I find the muffs alone inadequate to maintain a solid stream, and am currently using a cut-down 200L drum but it is a very tight squeeze and a bit of a pain. Considering trying to reshape the drum to make it more oval shaped which may make it a bit easier.
What is everyone else using?

Thanks,
Scott.

[rexaway123]

the earmuffs that feed water both sides have no problem on my F150 at all for steady jet stream of water flushing through

[PROS]

Looking forward to hearing about drum options too.

I am sick of dealing with lack of pressure from double entry ear muffs to 200hp.

[Jsmfun]

i have a df175 i changed to using 3/4 inch hose and have great pressure give this a try first if you dont have that size hose

[Scott79]

i have a df175 i changed to using 3/4 inch hose and have great pressure give this a try first if you dont have that size hose

That is a good point mate and no doubt part of my problem. I don't have great pressure at home, but I am only running 10mm garden hose which is probably making things worse, hence why I am using a drum. I might see if I can dig up a larger diameter hose and see if that helps, but the pressure is definitely poor to begin with.

[odieman150]

Don't know if it's ok to have an opinion seeing as i only have a piddly 115hp but i changed from garden hose to 18ml on my earmuffs and solved the same problem. Apparently it's more to do with volume and not so much pressure. ;D

[Cape Crusader]

Absolutely makes a difference with a bigger hose. Double the size of the hose and you get quarter the friction loss = much more volume.
I run 2 x 140'sat the same time off a 35 l/p/m pump. But use 25mm hose
A while back I had to drain a rain tank to clean it, then transfer water back in from another tank. I knew from my work that the larger hose would make a difference but thought I'd do a comparison to know what the difference was. Both, hoses similar length, both running off the 35 L pump
12mm hose produced 10 l/p/m
25mm hose produced 30 l/p/m
GIve it a go, a lot easier than messing around with some sort of tank
Cheers
Rod

[Dignity]

The bigger hose sounds great. I have a yammie F150 and both my mechanic and Yamaha themselves say I should just use the direct bypass and not run the motor. The problem I had obviously with low pressure and 12 mm hose was not enough pressure/volume and this caused the plastic housing that the water pump sat in to start melting as it can get quite hot in only a few seconds. My mechanic when he services my motor does run it in a big water container because he can not trust clients water supply.

Question - running a larger diameter hose from a 12mm supply, would this require a manifold to build up volume/pressure or can you run it direct.

[Scott79]

I have a yammie F150 and both my mechanic and Yamaha themselves say I should just use the direct bypass and not run the motor.

You are opening a tin of worms now mate!! There have been a few threads on the same subject, and if I recall correctly some big corrosion issues from using the same procedure.

[Cape Crusader]

Question - running a larger diameter hose from a 12mm supply, would this require a manifold to build up volume/pressure or can you run it direct.

Good question
Perhaps, see how much you can get straight out of the tap and then compare that to what you can get from the end of the hose.
Cheers
Rod

[Nick H]

Not sure how old your house is, but majority of houses have pressure limiting values after the meter or before the main feed into the house. Remove that and you will be amazed. I tried a drum on my 225 could not find one big enough that could fit under the leg. Now I duct tape up the extra intakes once I get home from the ramp while the leg is dry. Deffinetly helps with water coming out the tell tail.

[hungry6]

I use a wheelie bin with a cut out. Found it floating out back after the last flood.
I just guage it with my 140 and cut to suit. Just have to top up the water if you want to run it long.
I used to have a kiddies pool that was filled by a storm water pipe. It was deep enough and I can flush both 140s at the same time. Just got to back ger up with the legs up and trim her down, it was too easy.....

[Scott79]

Not sure how old your house is, but majority of houses have pressure limiting values after the meter or before the main feed into the house. Remove that and you will be amazed.

Interesting, thanks mate - house hasn't yet had its 10th birthday so that could be a possibility.

[Scott79]

I use a wheelie bin with a cut out. Found it floating out back after the last flood.

That is something I might look into, at least it will be strong enough to last a while. I am not sure it will be much wider than the 200L drum I have though.

[Jsmfun]

my house is under 10 years old and the pressure is good no limiters.

Question - running a larger diameter hose from a 12mm supply, would this require a manifold to build up volume/pressure or can you run it direct.

just change all your fittings then you have a 3/4 supply and the motor will not be trying to suck all the water as it should only be idling

[Dignity]

my house is under 10 years old and the pressure is good no limiters.

Question - running a larger diameter hose from a 12mm supply, would this require a manifold to build up volume/pressure or can you run it direct.

just change all your fittings then you have a 3/4 supply and the motor will not be trying to suck all the water as it should only be idling

The water pressure here has been dropping and is inconsistent a d Unity aren't too interested in doing anything about it. When they build that new Aura satellite city behind us with 80,000 more people I can't see it improving.

[Chris Tucker]

https://www.facebook.com/brian.stephensen.5/videos/1506281839619337/

[The Black Unicorn]

113439

There are, or were, some canvas type bags with 4 x vertical conduits that hold them up. Pull the conduits out and you can collapse the bag to get under the engine. Put the pipes in and start filling via the hose connection at the bottom of the bag. Honda900 on here uses one on his DF175. Works a treat. After he is finished he adds another hose to the fitting on the bottom and runs it to his yard to water it.

[Dignity]

You are opening a tin of worms now mate!! There have been a few threads on the same subject, and if I recall correctly some big corrosion issues from using the same procedure.
I was a bit concerned as I had read previous posts however after 15 months of just using the bypass system on the last service my mechanic checked it all out and found no corrosion at all, and he is very thorough. I suspect there are other things at play when it does occur so I am happy to continue with my current set up.

[MikeyS]

I bought a second hand plastic commercial laundry tub which has been great. Probably holds about 450 litres in total, but I don't need to fill it that much to get enough depth to properly flush my 150. I store water in a separate tank and transfer it into the tub with a bilge pump. Takes about 1 beer's time to do- I'm usually cleaning up something else on the boat in the meantime. I transfer the water back to the tank when I'm finished. I keep changing the water bit by bit so it never gets any real amount of salt in it- still pure enough to put on the garden.

[Mad Fish]

The bigger hose sounds great. I have a yammie F150 and both my mechanic and Yamaha themselves say I should just use the direct bypass and not run the motor. The problem I had obviously with low pressure and 12 mm hose was not enough pressure/volume and this caused the plastic housing that the water pump sat in to start melting as it can get quite hot in only a few seconds. My mechanic when he services my motor does run it in a big water container because he can not trust clients water supply.

Question - running a larger diameter hose from a 12mm supply, would this require a manifold to build up volume/pressure or can you run it direct.

My F150 lasted till 800 hrs flushed it every time i used it every two weeks like showroom finish external even pulled off the cowl and sprayed the motor with inbox but the block complete corroded out. Because i followed the instructions in the manual to NOT start the motor.....
Disappointed.
But i now have a Suzi

[PixieAU]

So do you still follow manufacturer's instructions?

[Dignity]

What I don't understand is how the block would corode if the water is still going through the block using either the drum flush or bypass system if following manufacturers instructions.

Just a question how many times have the anodes on the block been removed and the mating surfaces been buffed to ensure good contact, if not then this would be a reason the block has corroded. My mechanic does all of the anodes every service and it can be seen that the surfaces are doing their job when he removes them but for how long if not cleaned etc.

[scottar]

It's an interesting subject. My take from personal observations - where ever possible I run a motor on earmuffs - in a drum to create back pressure. All of my small motors have always produced a lot more water coming from the various exhaust mixed outlets when running in a drum. The difference with a 40 Evinrude was quite obvious - bit like comparing a dry spit to Niagra falls. I have never been a huge fan of recycling salt so I use the muffs and always, right or wrong, run a mixing unit of a non corrosive formula car wash through the engine to break down the salt followed by a straight fresh water flush. On my big "rude" I also then give it a couple of minutes using the flush fitting as well. Not a Yammie I know, but with the G1 Etecs it has apparently been proven that courtesy of the thermostats not opening if the engine isn't actually being run, that some of the internal passages either get no or a very limited flush by only using the flush port.

[Scott79]

I have just re-read the manual for the 150, and it clearly outlines the 2 separate procedures for flushing, page 59 for flushing the Cooling System (muffs) and page 60/61 for flushing the Power Unit (using the screw on fitting).
I am not sure where the ambiguity lies for only using the screw in fitting as the only means of maintenance.

For me personally, it is the muffs/drum followed by the screw in fitting every time. No point taking any chances for the sake of 15 minutes and some extra water on the lawn.

[Dignity]

I have just re-read the manual for the 150, and it clearly outlines the 2 separate procedures for flushing, page 59 for flushing the Cooling System (muffs) and page 60/61 for flushing the Power Unit (using the screw on fitting).
I am not sure where the ambiguity lies for only using the screw in fitting as the only means of maintenance.

For me personally, it is the muffs/drum followed by the screw in fitting every time. No point taking any chances for the sake of 15 minutes and some extra water on the lawn.
You've now got me hunting for my manual, moved house since I bought the motor and now can't find it

[Axl]

I just brought a brand new F100LA 4 stroke yammy, the manual says you can flush the motor either way bypass or muffs. The dealer recommended to use the bypass mostly but every now and then put the muffs on and start the motor.

I have only used the bypass up until I came back in at 1 in the morning on the weekend, after a sleep I used the muffs and started the motor to warm it up and it worked a treat.

After ten minuets or so I shut the motor down and did another 10 minutes of flushing through the bypass.

[Lucky 1]

I could never get enough pressure for the ear muffs to work for my Yammy 150 so I bought a large plastic container on Gumtree. Sorry I havent got the link, it was a few years ago. I think they got a big shipment in from China. I prefer to use the container to the flush port,