First go at making an Esky

[Cobbo1]

Decided I would have a go at making my own esky thats suited to the boat to save on space without compromising esky space, we usually have a low 130l tropical ice box but it takes up too much deck space for my liking, so I decided to make a taller chest type which will sit in the middle of the deck with space to walk on all sides, with a padded top to double as a seat.
It will also have a removable rod rack for transporting rods safely while the boats on the trailer, I hate having it all float around on the floor. The size I've gone with is 900 long x 550 wide and 700 to the top of the pad, inside it will also have a separate section sealed of from the main section for whatever else, this size will give me an overall capacity of just under 230L, the smaller section itself is 24L.

I started with a 1200 x 2400 x 38mm sheet of polyurethane refrigeration foam, this cost 103.50 inc. gst

I then simply worked out the size of my esky, cut all of the panels out with a filleting knife, pinned it all together with bamboo skewers to be sure it was all right, then glued it all together with a hot glue gun.

http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w473/coreymenear/Mobile%20Uploads/540CBCE9-BFE8-47B7-B57C-C2DAB7D4F417_zpsjjzjscmi.jpg (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/coreymenear/media/Mobile%20Uploads/540CBCE9-BFE8-47B7-B57C-C2DAB7D4F417_zpsjjzjscmi.jpg.html)

http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w473/coreymenear/Mobile%20Uploads/C4353CC8-03E0-445F-90E3-DE86F9A65119_zps1xbej6de.jpg (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/coreymenear/media/Mobile%20Uploads/C4353CC8-03E0-445F-90E3-DE86F9A65119_zps1xbej6de.jpg.html)

http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w473/coreymenear/Mobile%20Uploads/DE64A2F8-A6D3-4904-9574-5E6220BD3164_zpsl1j5otjx.jpg (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/coreymenear/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DE64A2F8-A6D3-4904-9574-5E6220BD3164_zpsl1j5otjx.jpg.html)

http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w473/coreymenear/Mobile%20Uploads/1CAC3112-483C-4A5A-9617-1BA82C44D73C_zpsplvwx2dl.jpg (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/coreymenear/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1CAC3112-483C-4A5A-9617-1BA82C44D73C_zpsplvwx2dl.jpg.html)

http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w473/coreymenear/Mobile%20Uploads/A15E36BA-354C-46BD-9C49-6F2DDDEEEC63_zpsfghl8rxa.jpg (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/coreymenear/media/Mobile%20Uploads/A15E36BA-354C-46BD-9C49-6F2DDDEEEC63_zpsfghl8rxa.jpg.html)

http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w473/coreymenear/Mobile%20Uploads/FA89BCB6-2600-4A0B-8782-D6C1C5AA89F9_zpsbwvb2kco.jpg (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/coreymenear/media/Mobile%20Uploads/FA89BCB6-2600-4A0B-8782-D6C1C5AA89F9_zpsbwvb2kco.jpg.html)

http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w473/coreymenear/Mobile%20Uploads/0C842CB2-1E38-461A-85BF-94437EDD58E8_zpswxeqig9z.jpg (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/coreymenear/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0C842CB2-1E38-461A-85BF-94437EDD58E8_zpswxeqig9z.jpg.html)

Unfortunately ran out of foam to do the lid, I'll have to see if I can buy an offcut or just bite the bullet and buy another sheet, either way not a big problem.

Next up is to paint it all in fg resin, otherwise the panels with bow when I go to glass it all up, once its all glassed and I am happy with it, I want to buy the hinges and bungs and other fittings so I can see where everything will go, I can drill a large hole there and fill with resin, so the screw will have something to bite to, and water can't get into the foam.

I have to wait until Friday to go and get more supplies so the next update will be a little while.

Everything has been bought from Coldesign at Rocklea, the bloke there has been extremely helpful and guiding me through this a bit, couldn't recommend him enough.

[rtp1984]

Looks good mate.
Might just want to have a think about how you are going to lay up the under side of the sealed box. It looks almost impossible.
You may have to take the bottom off, glass that section, them out the bottom back on?

with hinges ect. We generally sick some squares if ally onto where anything needs to be screwed, then glass over. seems to work a treat.

Cheers
Rob

[mitc69]

that alot of sinkers your using lol but good project

[ranmar850]

I've made a number of these over the years, anywhere from esky size to over a ton of fish and ice, you are on the right track. I normally use 10mm dowel to locate the pieces, then glass around the outside corners, 1 lamination, first. That way you have a fairly solid box to work with. Then, work out where you want to locate your hinges, catches, handles, etc BEFORE you start the rest of the glassing. I normally use some good hardwood, 50x25 is big enough, and rebate it into the foam so it is flush. This way the fixing of hardware later on is dead easy and secure. Getting the top, where it has to seal against the lid, absolutely straight can be a challenge, I find it easiest to cut a hollow square of structural ply exactly to the dimensions of the top, and glass over that. Flat surface guaranteed. Cut a hole where the bung is going in and glass a piece of poly pipe, electrical conduit, whatever, in the hole first, easier to work the laminations around it later. And glass in more poly pipe either end for rope handles (unless you are putting timber in and screwing folding handles to it ) and dont forget to glass one small piece inside, and one in the lid, for the limiting cord so you don't rip your hinges off. Don't skimp on the inner and outer laminations, if you only plan on doing one, use the heaviest chopped mat available, but I always go two. I see some of your edges are a bit proud, sand that back before you glass, or it will show.
For finishing, sand the glass down before you flowcoat. For rough finishing the very best thing I have found is actually worn-out flap discs. When they are too worn to be much good on metal, save them for glassing. Then tidy up with an orbital sander, couple of layers of flowcoat, done.:) And that box will murder anything poly for keeping abilities.
And what the other bloke said about that little side box, makes the laminating pretty awkward.

[Cobbo1]

Yeah I was worried about that but the picture doesnt really do justice to size, when its on its side I can easily lean in and get my whole torso and both arms in there, shouldn't be too hard really

[Cobbo1]

Thanks for the tips, I think I might have misunderstood the bloke at the store when he said about drilling after glassing I think he meant what you are saying so I will be doing that, the electrical conduit is a good idea I'll be using that one, I was going to go with 2 layers of 450gsm mat, will this be enough? I did a bit more sanding and all my edges now line up I hadn't quite finished in the photos, also I have been very careful to keep the top edge straight, it is dead level all the way around and as straight as possible - lets hope I can keep it that way.

Do you spray your flowcoat or brush? I'm a spray painter so I was hoping to spray it, but can't find much on the subject.

[GBC]

I'd arrice the outside edges of the foam so the mat sits square on the corners.

[cwcarter]

Does the inside small compartment need to be insulated? You could use a piece of folded aluminium or stainless. This will give you more room and transfer the coldness better into the smaller section.

Looks good though.

-Craig

[ranmar850]

I've always brushed or rolled (better) it on, there are issues around spraying flowcoat, apparently, but it can be done. Pretty thick stuff. The pros that I knew who used to make these did a really nice job with roller and brush. Just don't bother trying to clean them after you are done ;) two coats should do it no worries.. 2 laminations of 450gsm should be enough. Having that small section as a removable ali box sitting on supports would mean that the cold will transfer better, and you could lift it out to clean, which would also make the whole bottom easier to access for a scrub after a big trip.

[Cobbo1]

I like the idea of the removable section but I think sealing it off seperately could be hard

[Rip it up]

Have you considered running a double thickness lid. One piece of foam that slides down into the opening. And another thickness on top.

All internal corner will need a radius to glass to bend around. A mixture of resin and talc powder will do it. Use and old spoon or a plastic spreader cut into a round tip around 40mm diameter.


Damo's dodgy boat building repair centre.

[Cobbo1]

I was going to use bog for the internal corners, being a spray painter I've got shitloads here

[Rip it up]

Yep fair call cobbo. After all it is only a polyester boy you guys use the most.

A wet on wet approach is best. If you can keep that big from setting rock hard before you start glassing


Damo's dodgy boat building repair centre.

[Cobbo1]

Small update - I have a lid

http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w473/coreymenear/Mobile%20Uploads/7A2B8301-E76F-44B9-9916-8BBDC22FB805_zpslwppwobx.jpg (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/coreymenear/media/Mobile%20Uploads/7A2B8301-E76F-44B9-9916-8BBDC22FB805_zpslwppwobx.jpg.html)

[Rip it up]

And a pail of resin too.

May your eyes water and your nose run when the sytrene emissions smack you with you head inside the esky.

Looking good by the way.

A few tips on the finishing. You mentioned spraying the gelcoat/flowcoat. A cheap nasty HVLP gun x 2 is needed and plenty of acetone to cleanup.

2.5mm tips.

Styrene monomer is the thinner recommended. Although some guys use acetone for this too.

5-10% styrene is heaps. 1-1.5% catalyst. This catalyst gives you a very poor pot life. So the rush is on.

Two people are very helpful for this task. One prepping and mixing then cleaning ASAP. 2nd on the spray-gun task.

1st and 2nd coat needs to be unwaxed. This will remain sticky and leave a chemical bond for the final coat. Final cost can have 5% wax in styrene per volume to turn gelcoat into flowcoat. This will cure to a hard surface.



Damo's dodgy boat building repair centre.

[Cobbo1]

Yep, think I'll be wearing my respirator for this one, i've got styrene monomer for the thinner, and an old gun here to spray it, looking forward to seeing how it goes

[Rip it up]

Be prepared to live with a bit of orange peel straight off the gun. Wet and dry back to a full polished surface.

Just lay it up think on the first few coats to give a decent film thickness.

Gelcoat layers can be 1mm thick on production boats.


Damo's dodgy boat building repair centre.

[odes20]

I was going to use bog for the internal corners, being a spray painter I've got shitloads here
DONT BOG ANYTHING IN THE INTERNAL CORNERS!! Thats rubbish. And its adding to the weight for absolutely no reason at all! Jeepers! Just a lot of extra work for nothing gained.
You dont need a radius on any internal corners as the matting presses into them perfectly! You need to radius the EXTERNAL CORNERS! so your matting folds over them comfortably. Also there is no need whatsoever to use the foam on that internal partition. Its a lot of unnecessary space taken up and difficult to lay. Just make a slide in and out partition later. Then if you have a big catch you can pull the partition out.

[Cobbo1]

Too late, internal corners bogged, total weight difference would not be less than a kilo, and I've already brushed resin over it all, I'm happy with the seperate section and wouldnt change it

[FisHard]

By the looks of all this work, I'm just gunna buy an Evakool 😎

[ranmar850]

LOL. I've made a few of these, as I said before, some of them over 20 years ago and they are still going strong with other pro owners. The last two times I've needed a new box for a new boat, I've been very time poor, and just grabbed a poly one of the right size. Although I did make one for a camping freezer a few years back. There is a bit of work in them, and materials aren't cheap, but they kill anything else for holding power, if you make them 75mm ( or 100mmm )wall thickness. I certainly wouldn't goto the trouble of spraying and radiusing inside corners, that is just overkill and making yourself a lot of work for purely cosmetic ends. if your glassing job is good, and well sanded back, the flowcoat will go on very well with brush and roller--it's the easiest part of the whole job.

[Cobbo1]

I've gone overboard on materials and will probably have enough left over to make a smaller one after this and I have still spent less than what it would cost to buy an esky of equivalent size, plus I couldn't find one that suited what I wanted.

The internal corners took me about 10 mins and will now be easier to sand, easier to glass and they look better

[Rip it up]

I don't see any new pictures. This thread needs pictures!


Damo's dodgy boat building repair centre.

[Dignity]

Nice work Odes, I've used chop strand and find it awkward which is probably my inexperience, I did need to use some in a awkward place and ended up buying some multidirectional cross ply glass,or some such name, I found it gave me a nicer finish than chop strand. Is it structurally weaker than chopped, I think it was dearer but I found it easier to use.
I do agree with others, insert timber, Meranti is a good dense non shrinking timber and double the thickness of the lid, the extra to sit inside the box, higher amount of coldness escapes through the lid plus if using it as a seat you will need the extra strength.

[Chris Tucker]

Nice work Odes, I've used chop strand and find it awkward which is probably my inexperience, I did need to use some in a awkward place and ended up buying some multidirectional cross ply glass,or some such name, I found it gave me a nicer finish than chop strand. Is it structurally weaker than chopped, I think it was dearer but I found it easier to use.
I do agree with others, insert timber, Meranti is a good dense non shrinking timber and double the thickness of the lid, the extra to sit inside the box, higher amount of coldness escapes through the lid plus if using it as a seat you will need the extra strength.

Depending on what you bought your cloth is between 5 and 10 times stronger than chopped strand for the same weight.

[Dignity]

Thanks Chris, it was too strengthen the bulkhead before installing a new anchor winch, it was around 400 gm and the cloth had vertical, horizontal and diagonal weave.

[Cobbo1]

Sorry but nothing worth updating on yet guys, I haven't had much of a chance to work on this so it's going a little slow at the moment

[Lovey80]

Pics! More pics!

[lembo]

hows the esky going? any progress?

[Beard1705]

This is a really great post. Want to make a insulated fibreglass lid to sit over internal well inside the console of my 580 HH prowler to give me an internal esky. Much appreciated to the author and contributors.

[Cobbo1]

Sorry guys, haven't had a chance to work on the esky as I've been tied up with changing jobs and another project, a 1947 Kelvinator model 209, I had to completely rebuild the bottom 6 inches of the door, lucky these were made from real steel
http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w473/coreymenear/Mobile%20Uploads/3F2473A5-56B5-4417-90F0-202B81DCF9CF_zpsjiapgd1z.jpg (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/coreymenear/media/Mobile%20Uploads/3F2473A5-56B5-4417-90F0-202B81DCF9CF_zpsjiapgd1z.jpg.html)

http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w473/coreymenear/Mobile%20Uploads/158A8834-7F7F-4813-B1E6-A59F47B2D43C_zpszjuqndep.jpg (http://s1077.photobucket.com/user/coreymenear/media/Mobile%20Uploads/158A8834-7F7F-4813-B1E6-A59F47B2D43C_zpszjuqndep.jpg.html)

quick rubdown and paint now and I can get back into my esky

[Cobbo1]

Ok guys been a while I know, I've had some personal issues I needed to get sorted and I've also finished the fridge, had a decent day today to get back into the esky and it now has 2 laminations of glass over the whole lot, unfortunately my phones camera is buggered and cant get a photo for a while, but I'll get one soon hopefully.

[Rip it up]

Thanks for the update. Plenty of people still interested.


Damo's dodgy boat building repair shop.