need some advice please

[hardworking]

Hi Guys,

So I recently purchased a new boat and when I did, I knew the trailer was dodgy and it would need replacing. All well and good, and I have a new one on order. My problems is between getting the boat to be serviced, and back the front of the trailer (where the winch is) is FUBAR and I am worried that the next time I try and tow it float the boat onto the new trailer, It's going to collapse completely, and I am not sure what would happen in that instance.

Any advice would be great. The boat is a FibreGlass Sea-Ray 180 Sport, so not light.

See the pic and you will see what I mean. Not sure what do to now. The nearest boat ramp is a good 45 mins away.

Thoughts?107959

[stockhorse]

This may sound a little odd but I have done it many times.

When you get your new trailer back it up to the old trailer with the boat on it. Front of old trailer is on the ground and new trailer goes over the top of it. Securely chock the old trailer and if necessary put some jack stands under it, leave the new one attached to the tow vehicle. Remove the winch post on the old trailer and attach winch from new trailer to boat .Wet down the rollers and/or skids on both trailers and winch boat from old trailer on to new trailer.
Slow and steady and job is done.

[Kero]

You could get your self a new winch post: http://www.boattrailerspares.com.au/winch-post/
Cheaper than picking your boat up off the road.

[stockhorse]

Looks like the winch mounting plate in that pic not the winch post. remove mounting plate remove winch and get plate welded.
Looks like boat may have moved forward on the trailer at some time or winch too tight and bent mount.

[hardworking]

This may sound a little odd but I have done it many times.

When you get your new trailer back it up to the old trailer with the boat on it. Front of old trailer is on the ground and new trailer goes over the top of it. Securely chock the old trailer and if necessary put some jack stands under it, leave the new one attached to the tow vehicle. Remove the winch post on the old trailer and attach winch from new trailer to boat .Wet down the rollers and/or skids on both trailers and winch boat from old trailer on to new trailer.
Slow and steady and job is done.

Holy crap!! Talk about not seeing the forrest for the trees! I guess I would have to remove the winch post etc, and obviously be very careful that the boat does not fall sideways as it traverses off the old trailer.

I have a way of securing the old trailer so that it can't move during the transition, so that's all good there.

My only concern is once it clears the wobble rollers at the rear, there is not much that will stop it from falling sideways - although thinking about it, the new trailer wobbles should stop that from happening as I can back the new trailer virtually right up to the nose of the boat.

Thanks man! Great solution!

[Fed]

It's easy and risk free to simply dump the boat onto grass and winch it onto the new trailer.

[hardworking]

I don't know if I want to dump my glass boat onto the grass and drag it up onto a new trailer. I am liking the transfer method above I think.

[Fed]

Whatever you feel comfortable with, if you go from trailer to trailer make sure the side support is there as you transfer.
I could see a time where the side support maybe in no mans land.

[Darren Mc]

Maybe get a few mates on each side just for back up?

[Chimo]

If you drop the boat onto grass you actually drop it on to tyres along the keel and double or tripple tyres on either side to keep it stable.

When you winch it back onto old or new trailer wet the rollers, lube the centre roller pins and unhitch the trailer so the trailer slides under the boat as you winch.

Slow and steady and no risk or damage to boat or boater

QED

Cheers
Chimo

PS That bracket just needs to bent and re-welded.

[mitc69]

nah drop it on the grass, most of us all do that when we repairing/replacing the trailers... no1 that crazy to goto the ramp each time for repair.. it'll get dirty but no dmg will be done.. just remember to tilt the motor up... otherwise afew friends of mine has used wood and tyres to support the ground base

[hardworking]

Thanks guys for the input - Much appreciated. I will have a few mates on hand for sure.

[hardworking]

Hi Guys,

So we have the new trailer here and this weekend it looks like we will have ago a transferring the boat over to the new trailer.

Question... How do I know where to set the rollers? This is a new trailer, and I am sure the rollers are not going to be in the perfect spot. So... is there a method to follow?

Here's a pic. It has wobbles at the back that pivot etc.

Any assistance is appreciated.

http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=108487&stc=1

[trevs1979]

i followed this worked well and had a few things i wouldn't have thought about without the guide

so links dont work here ill inbox the link

[hardworking]

Hi Trev - The link in inbox doesn't work either. :(

[Chimo]

Load the boat (winch it on off the grass with the car uncoupled so the trailer rolls under the boat and the boat more or less stays in one place) tie the boat down at the rear as for travel and then crawl under the trailer and jack up or lower all the rollers so they are all equally easy or hard to turn

Have fun but its worth doing well.

Cheers
Chimo

[Fed]

I've reloaded both ways & leaving the trailer connected to the car is by far the best way.

[Chimo]

I disagree, too hard on the arms and the trailer lifting it up off the ground.

On the other hand if you slid the boat off so its been stored at trailer height ie sitting a couple of feet off the ground then maybe...........

[gofishin]

I've reloaded both ways & leaving the trailer connected to the car is by far the best way.


...On the other hand if you slid the boat off so its been stored at trailer height ie sitting a couple of feet off the ground then maybe...........
My 2c...
There are many ways to 'skin the cat', so to speak... It really depends on the type of boat, size of boat, same for the trailer, AND to a large extent the capability and experience of the dude/chick in charge of the task.

Have a real good think about it first, think some more, then choose the method that best suits your situation!

I grew up in a family boating business where we regularly slipped glass boats to ~33ft off trailers for various reasons.

Always had the boat 'secured/anchored' to something for getting off (and on - until the boat was 'stable enough'), and mostly always at trailer level for getting off and on, mostly used the car hooked to the trailer - otherwise a trolley jack under the front and/or back of the trailer (as required). Never had an issue, BUT we had the luxury of a big workshop with level slab and lots of anchor points cast into slab, lots of stands, beams, cradles etc, and 99% of the time the boat was coming off the trailer for some time, not just to swap trailers.

If you leave the boat on tyres for some time be wary that both rubber and gelcoat are petroleum/carbon based. Black marks can appear and can sometimes be very difficult to remove without minor abrasive work & a cut & polish etc.

I have also worked for a major tinny manufacturer for 5 yrs where we regularly had to dump boats (up to 6.5m) , change boats, change trailers etc, and sometimes very quickly. Majority were 'motored' boats, all were on to hardstand (concrete or bitumen), and many times just a few strips of timber for protection. Cars hooked on, cars off, sometimes with tyres under boats, all dependant on the situation and number of people involved etc. Obviously as the boat got bigger, and if motor was installed, the task needed more care.

All methods stated in this whole thread (and others too) will work safely so long as enough thought goes in to the process. Sometimes one method may suit best, but under a different situation, another method may be better.

'Ave a beer' and have a good think first. If things start to look ugly, don't go past the 'point of no return' before you pull the pin and try another method :)
Cheers
Brendon


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[hardworking]

Thanks guys - Great input.

Looks like we are going to give it a whirl this week. Have some mates coming over to assist.

[hardworking]

Hey - Here's a question....

Am I right in thinking that the winch post takes all the weight of the boat during braking and accelerating?

Yes, there is a strap that holds the rear down - but that just keeps it from bouncing. But when you hit the brakes while driving, all the weight moving forward appears only to be stopped by the winch post! Seems like a lot to ask of when the boat weighs over a tonne! Even worse considering the boat is on all rollers!!

Am I missing something?

[Fed]

Your car can't brake or accelerate enough to hurt the post or plate.

[hardworking]

Really?? So doing 100 and throwing out the anchors won't hurt the post? When the boat just wants to roll forward. Wow!!

[Dan5]

There should be an extra tie down point at the front just near the base of your winch post you can attach another safety chain to......This will be the point that will take a lot of the inertia out of the heavy braking situation.......Most people will run a chain from this point to the hull tow point of the boat with a turn buckle/rigging screw....it is usually angled back a little so it's already under a bit of load.........Have a look on your trailer for something like an extra chain link welded to either the base plate of the winch post or directly on the main draw bar.......You'll work it out.
Dan

[Chimo]

http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=108507&stc=1
This is the sort of thing that will assist to hold the boat on the trailer when you stop suddenly. Not sure if it should be totally relied on when you run head first into a tree or similar object but for all other situations worth having

Cheers
Chimo

[hardworking]

Ok cool! Mine doesn't have that, but nothing a welder won't fix.

[Fed]

A while back there was a pretty good thread about load restraints and by memory the forward/reverse restraints have to be rated at 50% of the weight of the load.
For a 1000Kg boat that means forward/reverse restraint of 500Kg so your winch post is fine.
Don't tighten any tie down straps simply take the slack out otherwise you risk hull or trailer damage.
The picture Chimo put up is problem waiting to happen, see the gap between the boat and the bow stop rubber...

[hardworking]

Ok Lads - We have successfully completed the transfer from one to the other. We took the winch post off and pulled it from one trailer to the next. Not as easy as I would have liked - it took some working out, and a trolly jack was much needed, and helped.

We have set the trailer up as best as we think with roller heights etc, have the rollers where we think they should be. If you guys want to have a look at the pics and let me know your thoughts, I would be grateful.

I have the boat sitting so the last roller is about 100mm from the back end of the boat. The winch looks awfully low, but it seems to be right.

Can I ask - re the rollers, we have most of the weight on the centre spine rollers, and the wobbles just there to stabilise. Would that be right?

Cheers
J
http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=108590&stc=1http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=108588&stc=1http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=108587&stc=1http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=108586&stc=1http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=108589&stc=1

[PixieAU]

Well now I've seen a photo i understand how that solution works

Thanks for posting

[Chimo]

Even weight on all if you want it to roll on and off easily.

Dont forget to rig up a means of slowly releasing the boat into the water when on the ramp. I use a climbing "8" to control the rope and he boat. Rollers do roll!

[hardworking]

Thanks guys!

Yeah - It was not as smooth as I would have liked. Mainly because the old trailer was screwed and the rollers were shot! You have to be careful as you move forward and it drops off each roller. A trolly jack was used to to take the weight, and then lower it down onto the next roller that was actually too low. Slow and stead, and easy done.

I have the weight distributed pretty evenly. We rolled it up onto the wobbles and the adjusted all the other rollers around them, as the boat was sitting nicely above the guards, at what looks to be the right height!

I used a trolly jack under each of the keel rollers to lift and put weight on them one at a time. I also lowered the nose roller so that the boat looks to be sitting level on the trailer when winched all the way up. A trolly jack is a must for adjusting the rollers, so you can really put some weight on them. The rear is about 100mm or so in from the arse.

We had to grind some bits off as they got in the way, but the old trailer is screwed anyway. So it' didn't matter.

I must mention - At no time did the boat feel or act like it was going to fall off the trailer. It was supported by the wobbles from the get go, so no chance of that.

[Fed]

When you drag the old trailer out from under it with the car & winch the boat onto the new trailer straight off the grass you don't have to worry about the bum plopping off the centre rollers as it clears each one.
No jacks, no risk, no worries, 20x20 hindsight for free.

Slack trailer manufacturers for not angle cutting the winch plate and setting the bow stop roller height.

[hardworking]

Slack trailer manufacturers for not angle cutting the winch plate and setting the bow stop roller height.

Hi Fed,

What do you mean?

[Fed]

The winch plate should be parallel to the ground and the bow stop roller height should be set to line up with the height of the cable on a ~full winch.
Just little details that cost nothing to do right.
I bet all the hardware is electroplated too, at the very least hop under it & change all the split pins to stainless steel while you're still in the mood.
Did they grease the centre rollers?

[hardworking]

Hi Fed,

Thanks for the reply.

I wouldn't use grease on my rollers. I already know grease will attract everything under the sun and just become a crusty mess. Everything I have read to date advises against grease.

The trailer is Gal Dipped.

[Fed]

I've tried both grease and no grease and found grease is always better.
It's nice to have a boat that will roll off the trailer under it's own steam because when it's like that it's so much easier to pull up.

Your trailer is gal dipped but the nuts & bolts & split pins etc aren't.

[hardworking]

Ahh yep! We have already spoken about changing the pins and rollers (and whatever else we can) to Stainless. So that will happen in the very near future.

[Dignity]

Hardworking, glad to see you had a successful transfer, new method to me but makes sense.
It's the bolts and welded nuts that hold your wobble roller brackets that will need attention. In the old days the bolts were threaded smaller to accommodate the extra thickness of the galv, no so anymore, soon as the bolt goes in the nut most of the galv is stripped off and the bolt becomes vulnerable to rust, you will find that the bolts and u bolts will be the first thing to rust. With my new trailer once I was happy with the setup I cold galv all the bolts and nuts then silver painted them. My entire trailer was finally painted with xtroll rust preventer inside and out, , I couldn't get any tectyl at the time but I am happy with the xtroll as it doesn't look as dirty as the tectyl.