Left the bungs out, does insurance cover this

[desertislander]

OK, we have all done this at least once, left the bungs out that is (you have so don't lie)
Yesterday morning I wanted to replace a couple of keel rollers on the trailer that had seized solidly with rust and which were obviously heeding my launching and recovering. It was a perfectly calm morning so ideal to drop the boat off at the ramp and leave it sitting quietly near by while I did the quick fix on the trailer. So, backed her down the ramp, all 5.4 meters of glistening white signature, gave her a gentle shove out into the calm water and let her drift off with the current having tied her securely to the side of the ramp out of harms way. I then pulled the trailer back out just off the ramp and began hammering, thinking how great my boat looked sitting in the morning sun light. It was then I remembered, F***K !!!, the bungs, you forgot the f...ing bungs..I raced back and frantically pulled her back in and noticing her back end was a lot lower in the water than normal, finally got her in, quickly fumbling under water managed to get the bungs in. By this time half the floor was under so I hit the bilge pump and started to bail. That was a close shave and once I had drained her and finished the trailer, taken her home and flushed her several times it was all good, no harm done. Later, as I recovered from my mornings excitement over a cold lunch time beer, I did wonder, would my insurance have covered me for that momentary lapse or would I be kissing goodbye 30 grands worth of drowned boat :o

[Dan5]

Don't know about the insurance....I suppose they would have to really but you might be in for a fight...

A certain mate of mine has done this more than his fair share of times.......We have now cable tied a spare bung to his key so gets a little prompt every time he starts the motor....

Dan

[Crunchy]

"Accidental loss" so yes it would be covered. Why didn't your bilge pump come on automatically?

[scottar]

Why didn't your bilge pump come on automatically?

They won't unless they are an auto one or have a float switch and have a direct source of power installed (not via a switch).

[Crunchy]

They won't unless they are an auto one or have a float switch and have a direct source of power installed (not via a switch).

Yeh well I knew that just thought everyone would be set up like that

[MTAQ/BTAQ]

Something similar - my jet ski and trailer was stolen, got it back in 30 minutes (long story go to the "Stolen" menu in Ausfish for full story) but after this I contacted the insurance agent and said what if ?

He stated that I would only receive 80% of insured value as it was due to negligence (no lock on trailer ball) - I feel same would apply in this case.

[desertislander]

Thanks guys, I was lucky this time, and I don't think there will be a next time but will be taking no chances in the future, a bung dangling off the ignition switch sounds a good idea Dan5 and I think I might invest in an auto bilge pump as well, any recommendations.

[mitc69]

depend on your battery... some boat owner like myself have dead switch so bilge pump wont be auto but with insurance pending on your policy and how you claim it lol.. i wont lie i know load of ppl lie on there claim but it'll make do...

like the recent hali storm... some people put parked in garge on the policy... but no it was on street out in font of the house and hali took it out lol then they tell them that when they try to claim... but if they said they were driving at the time and had to tail out then, the claim would be more vaild, has i know some claim were rejected however most boat motors stay above the deadzone so it's cheap to re wire without insurance anyway since my first boat in 1997 my quintrex did something like that too.. we were 500m out from ramp before i notice the plug... got back to ramp... just had to rewire but yeh close calls happens

anyway AAMI and allianz cover mistake like that if it were to happen, not sure about others

[Dan5]

I run 2 bildges...........1 fully auto hard wired to the battery with a float switch and no manual switch so you can't leave it off..........another switched manually one just for piece of mind.

As far as brands......well I've had most of them and only 1 has let me down a TMC cheapie but it did run dry as the float switch got some shit in it and kept it up so I can't really blame the brand for that one.........been using Johnson's lately and seem fine with Rule switches........Most important thing to do when wiring up is to use water proof glue lined heat shrink on all terminations......I put a double coat on mine and have never had an issue doing it this way.

Dan

[Crunchy]

Each time I pump the primer I flick the float switch up to make sure the pump comes on...essentially I check on every trip....float switches do seem to fail

[scottar]

Crunchy is right, float switches are certainly not a set and forget item. I like the Rule gear but all brands are subject to failures. I wouldn't necessarily replace the pump - just fit a good quality float switch and the necessary wiring. It can either be hooked direct off the battery so it can never be turned off or hooked to the battery switch so it is active as soon as the batteries are connected. Either way it will need a fuse in a good waterproof fuse holder as well. The only thing you will need to check is the amp draw of your pump so you can get a switch that is spec'd to handle the current - the Rule switch should handle most pumps that are installed in a trailer boat but worth checking all the same. As Dan5 has mentioned, waterproof heatshrink with glue is a good idea for the joins and secure the joins so that they are well above the level the water will get to before the pump kicks in.

[tjotter]

I added an extra auto-bilgepump as an "early warning" system,
an upgrade from the previous feet-wet? "late warning" system.

fishing111 wrote in http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/archive/index.php/t-195982.html
that a single 2 inch hole takes in 78 gall a min at 1 foot under,
ie almost 5000gph.

[cormorant]

Reminder on direct to battery bilge pumps to have a fuse and as pumps are so silent add piezzo alarm on the circuit works a treat so you know if you are sinking. No use it going off and flattening your battery and you sleeping unaware overnight. Set the normal pump lowest in the bilge and the auto a inch above on a bracket. You can test it easily with a small bucket of fresh water and hose every month so you know it is a goer. Pumps with the integral non moving switches are better IMO and buy size and quality as it won't be in the water unless you really need it. Smooth bore pipe and decent hose clamps to a non restrictive through hull outlet make a huge difference when you need it. be realistic a pissy little bilge pump is useless if you have any sort of real hull breach so look at the waterproof puttys and foam plugs and consider them in your safety kits. Foam sheet for a hull crack as well.


http://www.forespar.com/products/sta-plug.shtml
http://www.selleys.com.au/putty/epoxy/knead-it-aqua/
http://www.prenco.com.au/Spill-Containment/leak-sealant/stay-afloat-emergency-sealant-and-plug-198g
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvorHXLZbIQ

[TheRealAndy]

If you are like me, ie brain dead, then write a little check list and get it laminated. You just need to discipline yourself to go over the checklist everytime, and that is the hard part.

[desertislander]

LOL Andy, brain dead for sure mate, I leave notes to myself all over the show, trouble is I forget to read them ....