The dreaded Suzi white wire

[wardy40]

Last weekend I was 30 mile off Mackay when I noticed my Suzuki 115 wouldn't go above 3000 rpm.
After a slow trip home I searched the all knowing internet and came across the common issue with the ECU supply wire (white wire). I inspected my cabling today and yes it is connected to the starter motor but I hadn't had an issue for the last 2 years I've owned the boat so thinking something else could be causing this issue I found that there was a little corrosion on one of the connection bolts on the 60 amp fuse in the top left side of the control box which the white ECU wire connects to. I pulled the fuse and found one side of the fuse was burn't (see pics). This was obviously giving me the voltage drop to the ECU putting it into safe mode.
So after cleaning everything up and replacing the fuse all is good now. Just hope this helps someone else out having the same issue.

Cheers

fuse1_zps3ffa3c3f.jpg (http://i1353.photobucket.com/albums/q677/maddizig/fuse1_zps3ffa3c3f.jpg)
fuse_zps1a0e150f.jpg (http://i1353.photobucket.com/albums/q677/maddizig/fuse_zps1a0e150f.jpg)
fuse2_zpse555b37b.jpg (http://i1353.photobucket.com/albums/q677/maddizig/fuse2_zpse555b37b.jpg)

[Moonlighter]

Well done on finding the issue, it is great when you can find info like that thru forums such as this and THT and the Suzuki parts forum.

Might be worth relocating that white wire connection from the starter motor to the positive side of the battery where it properly belongs. Possibility that the damage to that fuse holder may have been due to the spiking when the starter motor kicks over?

[wardy40]

Certainly will Moonlighter. Going to run it back to the motor side of the battery isolator. These fuses don't feel as they have a positive connection. Pushed in still wobbles a bit. I did bend the tangs a bit, but might replace with a water proof blade fuse holder. Just have to find some slow blow blade fuses to replace the oem fuse.

[Marchy001]

I think I had a similar issue yesterday out in Moreton Bay. Trip out was great and after a few hours fishing decided to move. Started fine anchor up and away we go.... However 8-10 knots was it. Could not get anything more out of it. Turned it off waited 30 seconds and started it again. Good as gold for the rest of the day. Sounds like I need to investigate this fuse/white wire thing. I'm assuming it would be similar on a 2004 DF140 of the johnzuki variety??

[wardy40]

Certainly could be Marchy001. A few things I've read would cause this. I mean mine ran fine for 2 years (2002 DF115) with the white wire coming of the starter motor, but I had installed new batteries, so maybe the voltage drop across the starting cables may only show up when the batteries start to lose some capacity. Another culprit is the neutral position switch. Plenty of good reading on THT and other sites.

Cheers

[Noelm]

I am not exactly sure why this is referred to as 'dreaded" if the motor has been installed as it should have been, there is no issue, if it's been done wrong, it is not the dreaded wire, it is the dreaded dealer, and they should be dealt with by 50 lashes from a piece of white wire so they never do it wrong again.

[Fed]

Maybe Suzuki deserve the 50 lashes for having to use the embarrassing white wire connected to the battery in the first place.

[Noelm]

yeah, maybe, but the installation calls for the position of the wire quite clearly (later models do not have this by the way) and fitting it correctly is not hard or requires any special tools or time, but most are not done properly, some survive OK for years, some are still OK today, but a lot fail.

[Marchy001]

I had a good look around and everything looks ok. I reinstalled the white wire and other open connections and used conductive grease on them so hopefully I don't get any issues. At least I know what to look for if it happens again.

Spent today up to my elbows in grease doing everyone's favourite job wheel bearings! Got 18 months and around 4k out of these and out of all 4 wheels only 1 had signs of water and only in the small bearing (outside) which surprised me. Every other trailer bearing I've done it's been the inside bearing that gets wet first. The flange sealant on the inner seals must work ok. I think it was the dust cap that leaked on this one so that's now been given a dose of sealant too.

Oil change tomorrow for boat and Triton then enjoy 3weeks of boating (hopefully)

[wardy40]

Here's hoping Marchy, Gotta love changing bearings. I reckon they should have "bikini clad babe bearing changing" just as messy as mud wrestling :)
I assume you're using jap bearings. I do and get yonks out of them.