Am I the biggest noob you have ever met?

[mrhappi]

Hi all, when it comes to boats I know absolutely NOTHING, NA-DA, ZILCHO.

Well that's not entirely true. I know enough to want to get into the lifestyle and I know enough to know my boys (three under 10) love the fact that Dad's just bought an old boat (even though he knows NOTHING about it) and they can't wait to get out on the water.

That's right, I've put the cart before the horse after a few weeks of classified browsing and purchased an '86 (i think) Seafarer Ventura with a '98 2-Stroke Mariner 90hp. I had a professional boat inspector give it the once over and his comments were basically "she's original, needs a bit of TLC and some elbow grease but a good buy for $5K".

Whilst the boat and motor are almost ready to get wet. The dual axle trailer on the other hand is going to need a bit more attention before it does any work. So that's where I'll start, and I'm hoping like hell there's enough generous old salty souls around here to guide me along the way.

So let's start here:

a) The front hubs/rotors and calipers look shot, but I reckon the springs should live to see another day.
(https://flic.kr/p/pQR9Sz)https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7478/15648987805_2928691436_n.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pQR9Sz)https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7497/15028827403_4680ecc653_n.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oU3EMR)

b) the rear springs are clearly shot. Would you say the hubs are as well?
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3956/15625275536_3aa73f9309_n.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pNKC3m)https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3948/15028233154_1062e5bef8_n.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oTZC9b)

c) Anyone know why the front axle would be square and the rear round?

d) The trailer has an ATM of 1260. Therefore how much load does each leaf spring need to be rated at. e.g would a 500kg rated leaf be suitable all round?

Apologies in advance if these questions have insulted the senses of anyone. :anxious:

[Crocodile]

Hello mrhappi,

Firstly, please tell me that you some blocks or a jack stand supporting the trailer and not just the jack when you were under it taking photos.

Secondly, welcome to the never-ending world of boat maintenance.

[JulianDeMarchi]

Definately need new front hubs. Calipers might clean up, they look like they're gal. I'd also say replace the rear hubs. I will guess about the axle and say that maye one was replaced.

I can't answer the suspension question however.

[mrhappi]

Hello mrhappi,

Firstly, please tell me that you some blocks or a jack stand supporting the trailer.
Yeah Croc. Had a hefty jack stand just out of shot. Also kept one tyre on when I removed the other.
If Murphy's going to visit anyone, then he'll visit me so I gotta take all precautions [emoji1]


Secondly, welcome to the never-ending world of boat maintenance.
Thanks...I think.

[mrhappi]

Definately need new front hubs. Calipers might clean up, they look like they're gal. I'd also say replace the rear hubs. I will guess about the axle and say that maye one was replaced.

I can't answer the suspension question however.

Cheers mate, will be great if I can salvage the calipers.

From what I've read there's two types of hubs out there. Ford or Holden - can anyone tell me how I work out what these are?

[MyWay]

I think you need 4 hubs ,4 calipers , 4 disks ,4 springs and 2 axles.
New set of brake pads and new brake cable, this should be trouble free for a long time.

[Gon Fishun]

This might help, also Google has a wealth of info.
Cheers.

106041106042

[dnej]

Camper Trailers Tech Tipsaxles & bearings



SQUARE OR ROUND AXLES
For the same nominal size a square axle is some 70% stronger than a round axle, yet only 27% heavier. When fitted with brakes the square axle is better for transmitting brake torque to the spring system as the axle seat sits flat on the axle.
STEEL & BEARING LOAD RATINGSThree things effect the strength of basic axle1. the diameter of the steel2. the design load of the bearings3. the design load of the spindle machining

STEEL SIZE (4045 MATERIAL)


MAXIMUM AXLE LOAD (tonnes)
DISTANCE FROM CHASSIS TO TYRE CENTRELINE (mm)*


39 round
1.0
150


45 round
1.3
170


40 square
1.6
170


50 round
1.5
190


45 square
1.9
190


50 square
2.6
200


60 round
2.6
200


65 round
3.3
200




* If the chassis to tyre centreline is greater than shown the allowable axle load is reduced in proportion

BEARINGS




BEARING TYPE

MAXIMUM BEARING LOAD (tonnes)

SPINDLE LOAD (tonnes)



LM (HOLDEN)
1.7
1.3



SL (FORD)
1.8
1.8



SLM
2.1
2.0



VT
2.7
2.7



TF9
3.1
2.9



VC
3.3
3.7





AXLE/BEARING SELECTION
The table below shows the optimum selection for the given maximum loading in tonnes under normal operating conditions.




MAX TYRE DIA (mm)
39 round
45 round
40 square
50 round
45 square
50 square
60 round
65 round




LM (HOLDEN)
630
1.0
1.3
1.3
1.3
1.3






SL (FORD)
710 (790)

1.3 (1.2)

1.5 (1.4)
1.8 (1.6)
1.8 (1.6)





SLM
710 (790)



1.5 (1.4)
1.9 (1.7)
2.0 (1.8)






VT
790





2.6
2.6




TF9
790





2.6
2.6




VC
790







2.6
3.3







1.0
PREFERRED



1.3

NON- PREFERRED




Keeping to preferred sizes offers best strength.



http://www.campertrailers.org/glitter.gif

[Moonlighter]

Happy

i agree with the others, new hubs and springs rear, you might be able to salvage the front springs. At the right price, axles as well. Fix it all up and fix it once, then you know what ypu have got and that it is up to a decent standard.

Its not a bad idea to state your location in your avatar, that way people can point you to potential local suppliers that they have used and would recommend.

You can pay silly prices for trailer parts, or, if you know the right places in your area, very good prices. But we dont know where you are.....!

[Dignity]

Mrhappi, it appears a set of springs has snapped and been replaced including axle and probably you would have a mix of bearing types also, at first I thought MyWay was a bit ruthless but on reflection he is probably right, replace the lot and then you will know what you have.
You might be able to replace the lot with an undercarriage already set up with load sharing springs, much safer, depending on the frame dimensions. The frame of the trailer appears sound although hard to tell as it appears to have been over painted with kill rust or some such paint.
Do block the trailer well before you start any work as you will be exerting some force in all directions and Jacks are notorious for slipping sideways, after all we would prefer to see you out enjoying yourself with your family. Good luck on your project.

[aussiebasser]

This webpage could be your friend

http://www.boattrailerspares.com.au/

They are normally a bit cheaper if you shop personally.

[LonxBW]

Sounds like a similar situation to my own. I just bought a Southwind SR565 and the trailer is relatively good (although a few suspect rollers and positioning needs a bit of work). Trailer running gear however? Laughable. Needed new hubs, bearings, pads and only had a 40mm axle. Ended up biting the bullet and ordering a full hydraulic marinised kit from Huntsman, fitting it this week and then out on the water!... and then fix the rollers/setup. Fun and games...
If decide to fix what you have, depending on existing hardware, I have a pair of mechanical al-ko callipers you are welcome to.

[Fed]

Drop the boat off the trailer on to the grass.

[Scalem]

These guys are sensational on the south side http://www.activefabrications.com.au
As far as buying new hubs/ rotors, consider buying 1 extra braked hub and one extra Lazy hub, pack a spare of each. A bearing issue on the side of the road should not take me any more than a few minutes to jack the boat up, straighten a split pin and undo the retainer nut. Changing over the axle is one more step I personally would get a professional workshop to do, it's a bit beyond my capabilities. Why change axles if they are still in servicable condition? Give them the bash test with a hammer and if big chunks of rust fall to the floor, use your discretion, solid axles will grind back and paint up quite well so long as the rust is still only superficial. If having different bearings is the worry, just read the stamp on the current bearings and order as required.

Scalem

[JulianDeMarchi]

These guys are sensational on the south side http://www.activefabrications.com.au


I can vouch for these guys. Great price, great service!

[boognfish]

Don't bother get a new trailer, if your new to this world we call B bring O out A another T thousand. Wasted time. Start fresh, less problems

[boognfish]

An don't get a braked trailer

[Scalem]

An don't get a braked trailer Not an option if the weight exceeds 750KG.

Scalem

[boognfish]

Ahh say no more

[Scalem]

I learned ( courtesy of great advice on this site) to spray Inox or similar on the disk rotors after a trip, it will preserve them.

Scalem

[madmaskbass]

If you shop online spinnythings is a great site. I recently bought a whole new axle and suspension set up with hubs and axle all delivered was still cheaper by over 40% to the local stores here in Mackay...

[mrhappi]

Thanks for all the great advice. I'll swap out all the running gear (incl Axles). Cost for parts is going to be somewhere in the vicinty of $700.

[mrhappi]

If decide to fix what you have, depending on existing hardware, I have a pair of mechanical al-ko callipers you are welcome to.

Bloody kind offer Lonx, but I think we're about 10hours apart so I'll let someone south of the border benefit from your generosity. [emoji106]

[tjotter]

When I did my first trailer reno, I did not do the Spring Ubolts up tight enough and after a couple of trips things had moved, now they are very tight.

http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/archive/index.php/t-69755.html