Mustang 24 rebuild [Archive] - Ausfish fishing Australia, Australian Angling Forums

giddyup58

06-08-2014, 11:17 PM

May be ok with the weight, as the outboards are literally half the weight (each) of the sterndrive.
I'm in the process of mounting them at the moment and it looks like a 300mm clear water pod is going to be the way to go. A bit of modification to the back of the deck should see it all looking factory.
I may run into problems with weight of fuel.
I have 2x160 litre tanks outboard and a single 140 liter mounted as far forward under the rear floor as I can get it - hard up against the transverse cabin. There's only 50 litres of water in the nose to balance it...
The 140 should be ok for running around the bay, with the extra 320 for going wide. I should be collecting the tanks on the weekend and I'll post a pic so you can see what I mean.
Still, a lot of weight there. Just have to wait and see how it goes. May have to rethink the pod and make it into a hull extension to pick up some buoyancy.
But it's all good fun, but for the fact that in the last week I've developed a sensitivity to the vinyl-ester or the darn gloves, which is playing havoc with my hands.

battleon

07-08-2014, 05:40 PM

Looking forward to seeing the pics!!

mal555

12-08-2014, 07:44 AM

same as a jenks?

Yep, the hulls are the same, different deck structure.

Yobbo70

12-08-2014, 06:19 PM

Just out of curiosity what is your budget on this? because fixing up an old boat can be incredibly expensive even if you are doing a lot of the work yourself, you may be better off buying something thats ready to go, there are some good buys out there if you have the readies, anyhow like the others Im keen to see some pics

giddyup58

12-08-2014, 09:18 PM

Yobbo 70 - Thanks for the thoughts, but I've done this a few times before and I really enjoy the challenge of turning a sows ear into a silk purse.
Labour is the major cost of any boat refurbishment, and luckily, I can handle all the timber work, glassing, paint prep, painting and trailer repairs myself.
Also, I will end up with exactly what I want.
As to the cost, not as much as buying one, but I will have to work my butt off. Which is OK.

giddyup58

12-08-2014, 09:46 PM

Don't quite know how those photos got there....

photo 1: the day I bought it - 22.4.14. The seller kindly towed it 60km to my place
photo 2: Got it home, took it off trailer and set it level and 4 degrees tail down.
photo 3: Had to cut out most of the moulded interior to check/replace stringers.

I stood a bulkhead on stb'd side to form a new head/shower compartment, and started rebuilding the mid cabin:
104692

Here's the before, cabin and cockpit:
104693104694

Here's the middle, cabin and cockpit:
104695104696

Here's new girders and transom, ready for sub floors:
104697

Sub-floors in:
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Mid-cabin progressing:
104699

Mid cabin floor framed up and dry fitted:
104700

Open heart surgery on one of the side tanks:
104701

Trial fitting-up semi-pod. I had to hang the top 1/2 of a 200 merc behind the boat to physically check clearances.
It's under 300mm long and it projects 400mm into the boat.
Not a really clear photo, but I'm playing with it tomorrow and I should have the mould attached, which will make it all a lot clearer.
104702

Still_Dreamin

13-08-2014, 07:18 AM

Coming along nicely! Keep the pictures rolling in

giddyup58

19-11-2014, 10:23 PM

Hi all.

Been a while since my last post, but unfortunately I developed a sensitivity to the gloves I was using and my hands swelled up, wrinkled, the skin became tissue thin and all cracked and bleeding. Quite horrid really.
Anyhoo, all better now, so I've managed to get a bit done.

When I left off, I was mucking about with a pod and fuel tanks. Glad to say it has all been solved...

Here's the mould for the pod
http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/asset.php?fid=98867&uid=582453&d=1416394947 http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/asset.php?fid=98866&uid=582453&d=1416394757

Add a bit of glass and resin:
http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/asset.php?fid=98868&uid=582453&d=1416395969 http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=106432&d=1416396618&thumb=1&stc=1 http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=106434&d=1416396848&thumb=1&stc=1

Some heavy duty alloy strap and
S/S nuts and bolts all epoxied in place:
http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/asset.php?fid=98872&uid=582453&d=1416397038

Laminating schedule - Should hold together
123718
http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=106436&d=1416397157&thumb=1&stc=1

Stb'd underfloor 140 litre tank fitted:
Obviously, there's a mirror tank on the Port side.
http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=106437&d=1416397452&thumb=1&stc=1

Centre 130 litre day tank fitted; and
Floors fitted over outboard tanks
http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=106438&d=1416397641&thumb=1&stc=1

Lid over day tank giving shallow storage space,
with deep storage behind:
The bulkhead that the tank is against to the
left of the photo is the back wall of the transverse berth
http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=106439&d=1416397880&thumb=1&stc=1

I didn't like how narrow the cockpit was in the old girl, so I decided to remove the side decks where not necessary, and reattach the sides.
The exercise only picked up 250mm more width, but the cockpit feels much bigger now and I think the boat looks a bit more modern.
I based it on an 80's Haines 635L:

Side deck and cockpit combing, GONE!
http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=106440&d=1416398499&thumb=1&stc=1

Combing/side ready for permanent reattachment:
http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=106441&d=1416398704&thumb=1&stc=1 http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=106442&d=1416398791&thumb=1&stc=1

Bit of glass and a little bogging and it should all look lovely...

I have a couple of ideas regarding the back of the boat. The pod is only 300 deep, but recesses 400 into the boat, giving enough room (just) for the twin Mercs to tilt.
Should have that finished in the next few days, so I'll try not to be slack and post the photos.

The cockpit floors are nearly done and the access hatches sorted.
I wasn't 100% happy about the placement of the batteries and oil tanks, but they should be OK.
I'll await your feedback when I get those pictures up...

ozynorts

20-11-2014, 06:56 AM

Photo's haven't worked mate. Need to use the "go advanced" button and import the images into Af then insert inline in your post.

giddyup58

20-11-2014, 07:25 AM

How odd - they showed up on my computer.
I'll try again, but I think they will load opposite to the original post:

LittleSkipper

20-11-2014, 01:03 PM

Now that's a lot of work? Good Luck with the reno?

Look forward to seeing the end result.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

jeffo

21-11-2014, 05:45 AM

Are you laying the glass up inside the laminated sheet on the transom then removing the sheet after for a solid glass finish?

The Woo

21-11-2014, 06:33 AM

I looks what you're doing with the coatings mate, a big improvement. Will there be sufficient space to install rod holders?
Keep up the good work!

giddyup58

21-11-2014, 07:16 AM

ozynorts

21-11-2014, 09:12 AM

Looks good mate.

The Woo

21-11-2014, 10:57 AM

Jeffo, the Melamine sheet was the mould - gone now. I'll have to put up some pics. It turned out really neat, but will still need the whole epoxy bogging and fairing treatment to look factory.
The Woo - I'll most likely run a targa arch with rod holders.
There's room across the back for rods, but not much in the "new" side combings.
I will be running rails around the cockpit, so I could maybe incorporate rod holders there.
Had it in the back of my mind when I attacked the side decks with the 1mm cutting wheel, knowing that I wanted to go wide and chase pelagics', that i would need to find a spot, or else the outriggers will be useless...

Where there's a will there's a way.
Maybe consider molding a spot for coaming rod holders on the outside above the gunnel rubber? Bit hard to explain what and where I mean but I'm thinking a half-moon mold outboard of the top of the coaming that would allow the fitment of a couple of rod holders.

Harmytage

21-11-2014, 11:01 AM

That really cool, I am envious as I have neither the courage or skills to start a project like that, good luck.

giddyup58

21-11-2014, 12:48 PM

Couple of clarification pictures:

300mm clear-water pod and rear coaming restored
106462 106463 106464

New floor almost finished, also showing better view of increased interior beam.
The cut-out on the rear combing to facilitate the Stern Drive has been filled in, and the inner combings have been cut down.
I'll probably add a storage shelf set 100mm up off the floor.
The intention is to have a fold down bench seat across the back, with a backrest of "D" shaped foam attached to the front of the rear combing ie. where the S/D repair was made.
Batteries will go under the floor on either side, and oil bottles on top
106465 106466 106467106468

So that's it, totally upto date.

Now I just have to get inspired and rip into it again...

PixieAU

21-11-2014, 01:29 PM

Might be a dumb question but why a clearwater pod?

Would you not need the buoyancy to offset the motors being further back?

giddyup58

21-11-2014, 01:53 PM

Might be a dumb question but why a clearwater pod?

Would you not need the buoyancy to offset the motors being further back?

The boat was originally a Stern Drive, but I didn't want an engine box in the way, so decided to go for twin outboards.
The 2 x 200 mercs' weigh exactly the same as the single 351 Windsor sterndrive.
According to the antifouling lines, the boat floated with the chines just in the water, so the small cantilever won't make much difference.
I didn't want a huge ugly pod or hull extension hanging off the back of the boat, and I realised that if I cut into the wasted space at the back, I'd only need a short pod.
Two schools of thought on hull extensions and clearwater pods, but I decided that mine would have such little set-back, that a hull extension would be way too much work and unwarranted and I would be able to set the motors 1" (25mm) higher with the 12" set-back. That allowed me to run XL shafts (25") instead of XXL (30"). My motors are both XXL's, but looked silly sitting so high, so I'm hunting for a 25' counter-rotating box to suit a 200 and we'll cut down the other 30, unless someone wants to do a swap...

Another thing was to add extra rake to the pod - 25mm longer at the top than the bottom, measured square off the transom.
The idea was to give the motors more -ve trim for an easier hole shot.

TheRealPoMo

21-11-2014, 03:18 PM

Out of curiosity, why ditch the inboard in favour of 2 Outboards?
More power, more room or just a preference thing?

Love the sound of a V8...

Hope it goes well.

giddyup58

22-11-2014, 07:15 AM

Out of curiosity, why ditch the inboard in favour of 2 Outboards?
More power, more room or just a preference thing?

Love the sound of a V8...

Hope it goes well.

Yes, agreed - the V8's do sound amazing, especially this one. It had un-muffled above water exhaust! But I wanted all those things you suggested.

The 351 would be lucky if was anywhere near 200hp. It was a Mercruiser 233, meaning when it was new 25 years ago, it was flywheel rated at 233hp.
The compressions were a bit low on 2 cylinders - (I still have the entire drivetrain and I have had it running) and I thought for a while of using it. All I had to do was a quick ring job, reco the heads while it was apart, find a good 4bbl manifold and original merc 4bbl carb, and hey presto, 255 flywheel hp. Still not enough.

When I got this one, I knew I'd either fit a Mercruiser 496 Bravo3 that I knew of, or a huge outboard.
The fishing space was so compromised by the engine cover, which would need to grow even bigger to cover the 496, that, coupled with the fact that it would be significantly heavier that the old 233, I decided to go for an outboard.
I'd already finished the transom repair at that stage, so to stop myself from debating the matter further, I took to the back of the boat with a cutting wheel and rough cut for a pod.
The original intention was for a 750mm hull extension, but the short semi recessed clear-water pod won in the end.

I had wanted a 250 - 300hp single, but a pair of 2.5 200 mercs came up for the right money, so that's what I've got. A bit more power than I had originally anticipated, but I'll learn to live with that...

Now, I have a big trailer boat that is a bit different, should go like stink, will look pleasant with the modifications and a good paint job, will fish better due to the wider unobstructed cockpit and will better suit my girls with a separate wc and shower.

At the end of the day, it's custom built to suit my needs, which is very hard to buy off the shelf. Just need to add a hell of a lot of work!

Sorry for the essay, but it was a quite involved decision.

TheRealPoMo

22-11-2014, 10:58 AM

Ok, I'm sold.
Guessing the 496 would be a big block and quite a bit bigger than the windsor.
I like twin outboards too.
Cheers

burleygu

22-11-2014, 12:02 PM

I cant wait to hear how much fuel it uses!!!

giddyup58

22-11-2014, 05:38 PM

I cant wait to hear how much fuel it uses!!!

That's about the only bit that I'm not looking forward to.
I've got a flowscan to fit, so I should be able to find it's best mpg revs. Will still be a hideous figure...

giddyup58

30-12-2015, 11:43 AM

Hi all.
Quick update of the progress on the Mustang 24.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I needed to fit a wc/shower to the boat, so I came up with this

:111889 111890

which was totally glassed and faired in, You would not believe how long that took!
Not totally happy with the POS sink, so I moulded and fitted my own:

111891

You may recall from earlier photos that the interior furniture had to be butchered and removed in order to replace the stringers.
Next job was to make good the repairs and make it all fair again:

111892 111893 111894

So that was all going nicely, if very slowly as it is a horrid job, when, for some reason, I needed to go up on the cabin top.
To my horror, I discovered that the deck was spongy and needed repair. Closer inspection revealed that the ply core of the cabin/deck had delaminated, so simply injecting epoxy was not going to fix it. A major repair was needed.

On the up side, I did get a build date for the boat.
I found this scrunched up newspaper stuffed into a cavity as insulation:

111895

May 2, 1976.

At l;east I now have a target date to work to. In May 2016, the old girl will be 40 years old, so it would be nice to get her back in the water by then...

Anyhoo, the deck problem really slowed me down, as I knew that by far the best way to do the repair, was upside down, preferably in the garage.
After a lot of thought and one pathetic attempt to turn the boat over, I finally decided to build a frame on the outside of the deck to hold its proper shape, and to then cut the cabin from the boat and do the repairs in the garage.
Big deep breath, just do it.

It ended up taking 4 full days in total from decision to remove the offending part to reinstalling it. Quite painless in retrospect. I could even lift and move the assembly after my son helped me get it off the boat.
I didn't use timber as the core material. It only lasted 40 years! Coremat was much easier. Full vinyl-ester layup for strength. It's a little bit bouncy, but will stiffen up a lot when the side windows go in.

111896 111897 111898

The boat looked a bit bare without the cabin:

111899

But it all went back together again, epoxy glue on the gunwale joint. The joins have been glassed since the photo.

111901

So what's left to do?

2 more hits of high-build and sanding the interior in preparation for gloss;
Sand blast the antifouling off the hull, then prep the hull and topsides (the sides of the hull - everything between the chine and the gunwale), for paint.
Prep deck and cabin for paint.
Gloss it all outside.

Put on motors, go catch fish!

Piece of cake. I'll let you know how it goes...

The Woo

30-12-2015, 09:28 PM

Great update! Thanks for keeping us in the loop.
We've recently launched our six year long refit. What a ride.
Be strong brother! Lol

gofishin

30-12-2015, 10:20 PM

Great job! Not an easy feat to take on a job like this when you also have to earn a crust too, time disappears quickly eh.

Woo, you should put together a thread of your OB33 rebuild. They would have to be the sexiest looking mono around, and the work you guys did was fantastic.
Cheers
Brendon

FisHard

31-12-2015, 06:31 AM

The Woo

02-01-2016, 10:03 PM

It's on THT gents.... Click the link for all the pain, suffering, and joy :p

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/412375-father-sons-love-their-boat-refit.html

gford001

03-01-2016, 04:45 AM

It's on THT gents.... Click the link for all the pain, suffering, and joy :p

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/412375-father-sons-love-their-boat-refit.html

Hey mate, been reading through your build, looks awesome. At page 6 on my shitty work internet, but getting through.
Is this at kippa ring? Can't remember the road, but I get my cars serviced at Brian Swain automotive and always stop to admire a boat up on stands just up the road......
Looks a lot like this, will have another look when I get back from work in a couple weeks.....

gford001

03-01-2016, 08:35 AM

Hey mate, been reading through your build, looks awesome. At page 6 on my shitty work internet, but getting through.
Is this at kippa ring? Can't remember the road, but I get my cars serviced at Brian Swain automotive and always stop to admire a boat up on stands just up the road......
Looks a lot like this, will have another look when I get back from work in a couple weeks.....
Got to about page 18 in that thread and saw Brian swains in the background. Always did like the look of that boat as I went past, good job mate.

The Woo

03-01-2016, 09:01 AM

Yep right near Swainy's it was. Thanks bud.

Giddyup, maybe I missed it mate but did you decide on a colour yet?

giddyup58

05-01-2016, 11:32 AM

I've done a couple of repaints, and I really like "Oyster White" - an old U.S. Paints colour. Close to "Eggshell".
Black covers, boot topping, gun'l rubbers and merc outboards look really good with Oyster..

The Woo

06-01-2016, 12:12 AM

Can't go wrong with Oyster White mate. Nice choice!

giddyup58

06-07-2016, 05:35 PM

Hi all - time for another update.

When I left off, I had just reattached the deck and was about to get into fairing.

I decided to fair the outside walls of the Shower/WC room as opposed to y original intention of laminating 4mm teak ply over the top. Didn't get a good shot, Sorry.
I cut the top of the icebox out to fit a SS kitchen sink with drainage recess.

Next step was to get into the cabin repairs, where I had to rip screws out by their thread, through the finished glass. These screws held the chipboard mould in place so the cabin didn't lose its shape while removed from the hull for rebuilding.
While I was at it, I also repaired all the star fractures - the boat is 40 years old after all - and all the now apparent moulding defects.
I also addressed the non-skid issue.
When plugs of boats are made, the non-skid is cut to shape off a roll and glued onto the plug.
When the mould is taken, the non-skid stands proud by a few mm and is essentially impossible to repair if damaged.

I chose to fair in the step up to the non-skid and to do my own non-skid in the paint - glass beads. More much later...

Structural repairs and fairing with a grinder:
113492 113493

Epoxy mixed with microballoons for fairing: Then 2 coats of highbuild to protect the bog.
113496 113498 113499 113500

Onto the outboard pod:
113501 113502 113503

Then the cabin sides and decks:
113504 113505

giddyup58

06-07-2016, 06:07 PM

Oops. Pressed Submit instead of Preview.

Anyhoo, continuing with cabin sides and deck: Added a bowsprit for the anchor:

113506 113507 113508 113509

All faired and in highbuild.

Next in line was removal of the antifouling.
Tried to do it manually and I spent 12 hours and did about 3m2 - see 2nd picture above, both sides. Absolute agony...

Only easy way was to load the old girl onto the trailer and go to the local friendly sandblaster:
113510

Got it home and back onto the hard.
Lots and lots of sanding to get it right.
Decided to do topsides at same time.
113511

View from house:
113512

So, it's getting there.

Slowly.

But it is progressing...

Cobbo1

07-07-2016, 03:52 PM

That looks awesome mate cant wait to see the finished product

ozscott

25-07-2016, 07:49 AM

Beautiful boat mate. I love the Mustang 24. Nice tow vehicle too.

Cheers

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

The Woo

25-07-2016, 10:40 AM

Looking great and seeing some progress which is awesome.
Top idea getting rid of the molded-in no skid. We did ours in sand too. So good underfoot.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q301/bennythewoo/Illusion%2033%20OBrien/Foredeck_zps6fea09ab.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/bennythewoo/media/Illusion%2033%20OBrien/Foredeck_zps6fea09ab.jpg.html)

giddyup58

31-07-2016, 06:52 PM

Hi all.
When I put up the last post on 6.7.16, I had just started getting the hull and topsides ready for paint.

Here I've put the 1st epoxy highbuild on the Stb'd side and now onto port side:
This photo is part way through highbuilding the topside. The prep was to wet 120 sand the blue and make all signs of gloss disappear.
113788

After it was all in highbuild, the whole lot was wet rubbed with 120 grit.
This shot shows the horrid condition of the bottom.
The creamy light white is the original boat, and the blue/gray white is what is left of the highbuild after sanding. Spot repaired all the lows.
113789

Next was 3 coats of highbuild and repair of the stress fractures. Oddly enough, they were in the exact same spot on Port side, so must have been a trailer issue.
I also spent a lot of time repairing the chines (chipped and dented) and the running strakes - 40 years of hitting things....The hull did take a lot to get right.
Last shot is of the topsides after 120 grit sanding. Now we're getting closer...
113790 113792 113793

Final coats of highbuild prior to hand sanding with 400 wet:
113795

Hull and topsides painted. Finally!
113798 113800

Pretty happy with the paint job. Bit disappointed that we couldn't find a formula for the particular oyster white that I like, so I decided to paint the boat in it's original colour, which i think looks quite good.

Spent the last few days preparing the decks and cabin for paint.
The bog work had been completed and faired and the 1st highbuild had been applied.
It took me 2 days (!!!) to 120 grit wet sand the highbuild, spot repair and re-highbuild.
113803

But it should be right now for a 400 wet rub and paint.
Hopefully later in the week.

Then onto the cockpit to prep for paint.
May take a bit longer, as I have to make some modifications to the dash layout to fit everything, and I haven't fitted any side pockets yet or thought about widening the rear combing
to fit a live bait tank and to better situate the batteries and oil bottles.

But, it will happen. Eventually...

ozscott

31-07-2016, 07:15 PM

Awesome mate!

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Moejoes

31-07-2016, 07:33 PM

Looking good.
A lot of work in that rebuild.
Well done.

The Woo

01-08-2016, 06:13 AM

A you've been a busy boy! Fantastic...

scottar

01-08-2016, 07:43 AM

Way more patience than me. Massive effort. Great job.

giddyup58

16-08-2016, 07:11 PM

Hello again all.
I've been busy the last couple of weeks, taking advantage of the good weather.

When I left off, the hull and topsides had just been painted.
Only way to finish the job is to suck it up and just go hard, so this is what I had to make pretty:

113978
This shows the hull and topsides painted and the cabin and decks in highbuild.
The prep method was 240 wet sand, spot repair, re highbuild, 400 wet sand, spot repair and spot highbuild, 400 wet sand.
Sounds easy enough, but the cabin and decks took 10- hours each time to sand. But I guess if it was easy, everyone would do it.

I decided to do all the modifications I needed in the cockpit while I was at it, and started with this:
113977
You can see I've already fabricated a little projection for the engine controllers. Biggish boat, so little room...

Progress:
113979 113980 113985
Original paint removed, glasswork done and faired with grinder
Liberal application of epoxy bog and boarded off, ready for highbuild treatment.

Decided that I needed to widen the rear deck (?) to fit the batteries and a live bait tank, so a bit of surgery was needed:
113981 113990 113984

Got all involved with racing to beat the weather, so no progress shots, but after a LOT of sanding and spot filling and getting it
right, it's now painted!
113986 113987 113988 113989

A bit over sanding and painting at the moment, so I'm going to have a bit of a play with the trailer. From earlier photos, you can see it sits very high and will be a total pain at the launching ramp. And I need to get the brakes working again and the trailer registered.

So next for the boat?
The interior is in 2nd highbuild, so it will get painted next. Then onto the non-skid, which will finish all the painting, and I can start fitting things.
It's just that everything is like 40 years old and knackered.

But, 1 foot in front of the other....

giddyup58

03-09-2016, 10:54 AM

Hi all.

Time for a quick update... Trailer woes!

Decided to get the trailer happening, and given that the one that came with the boat had major issues, I looked for a while to buy a repairable known brand to refurbish.
I found a suitable Tinka trailer in Phillip Island, but it was going to cost a bomb to get it up to Brisbane, so I opted to modify what I had.

Mistake.

Tinka and the like have had decades of experience building boat trailers and have learned what makes a good product. I don't.

The original was very well built and very heavy, but not galvanized and not really a contemporary boat trailer design.
Looked like an engineering workshop put it together (very well) but with no thought to modern things like self launching ability or aesthetics.

There was also a mixed bag of parts used. The rocker springs were only rated to 2500kg, the wheel spacings were for 16" offroad wheels and tyres, the whole sub-frame was too light, the guards were hideous and too heavy, there was no handbrake fitted and the coupling was only rated to 2050kg.

Here's what I started with: Cut off the rusted bit: Closer picture of hideous sub-frame and guards.
114147 114148 114149

It was obvious that the trailer needed rethinking. The cross pieces could all go as the new sub-frame would hold the main bearers apart.
A new sub-frame needed to be built from scratch to sit the frame lower.

Here's the beginnings. Correct sized (3,500kg) roller rocker spring set, with proper wheel spacings, fully refurbished electric drum brakes and galvanized drop frame
114150

Here it is, fitted to frame: Frame repair underway.
114151 114152

Next, I cut out all the cross braces and set about fitting the rollers.

I temporarily fitted some keel rollers so I could get the boat on the trailer, and found that it was too low!!

114153

I got rid of the electric winch and bow stop and have fabricated a new version with a manual 15:1 winch and V block.
Also, first shiny thing has been fitted to boat - new towing/bow eye!

I've fitted a few wobble rollers but I'm having a bit of trouble actually working out how to do the rear sets. That's today's task.
Cant permanently fit guards until the engine/s are on, as I don't conclusively know where the wheels will sit, height wise.

Also, a 300hp Suzi has come up that I'm tempted to get, as it will solve a lot of potential problems - not the least of which will be fuel economy from the 2 old 2.5's.

Will know more about that motor in a few days, so for now I'll keep on with the trailer.

And just for the record, I really regret not spending the extra few dollars and getting the repairable Tinka from Phillip Island... Just couldn't see the forest for the trees... Lesson learned.

ozscott

03-09-2016, 06:33 PM

Mate looks great. Can I suggest you seal the box completely with welded plates and then put holes on the top of each rail and tap a thread for a bolt with nylon washer... Same at the bottom of end plates and fill with fisholene or similar and let is slosh around. I recommend Xtroll Rust Conqueror UV and then their Easy Gal over the top for the outside. Cheers

PS. See my build up thread here. http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/showthread.php?t=191562

In 3 years of salt use with no Hot dip she remains rust free on the springs, axles, frame, everywhere. Cheers

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

giddyup58

03-09-2016, 06:49 PM

Thanks for the tip. Sounds easy enough and can't complain about the result!

scottar

03-09-2016, 09:25 PM

Electric drum brakes ? :-? rest looks great

ozscott

04-09-2016, 02:28 PM

Good for vans... Not so sure about salt water... Cheers

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

giddyup58

05-09-2016, 02:21 PM

Not my 1st choice, but they were there.
Quick tickle, and they should now be working, so at least I can get the trailer registered and take my time working out electric/hydraulic discs.

scottar

05-09-2016, 02:49 PM

If you are stuck with them, make sure you put some sort of fitting into them so you can connect the hose to it to give them a really good flush or you will be doing it much sooner than later.

giddyup58

10-10-2016, 10:13 PM

Hello again.

Managed to get a little bit more done in the past few weeks.

Trailer is now basically ready for registration. Still have crappy electric drums and hasn't been rust proofed, but I'll hold off on any of that until I've had a chance to launch and retrieve a couple of times to see if it's going to be acceptable. I managed to get the boat to sit nice and low, but had to widen the track by 200mm to clear the guards. Seems to have equal weight on all the rollers, and tows OK, but impossible to tell if it will continue to do so when fitted with motors and all the extra fit-out bits and pieces.
Managed to do a complete re-wire with new LED lights and new electric breakaway system. Also new winch and bearings. Not my idea of fun, but at least it's another job that can be crossed off the list.
Maybe...

So here it is, all shiny and sitting on a tow-able trailer. Got stuck into it with the 2000 wet and dry. Lots of sanding (again) and machine polish. Came up quite well.

114540

Agonised over the non skid, and finally bit the bullet and got it done.
I was panicked over my choice of colour, but I figure it should be a nice contrast to black covers and striping. Fingers crossed...

Here is the decks masked up and ready for paint
114541 114542 114543

And here is the end result:

114546 114544 114545 114547

Next on the agenda is to 2000 sand and machine polish the cockpit paint work, then do a bit more timber work.

In my rush to get it painted and fix the trailer, I kind of glossed over fitting the port cabin bulkhead, or fitting the side pockets. Can't paint the interior of the cabin until that bulkhead is in and faired, so that's the first job.

Then I guess paint the interior and get serious about getting the motors refurbished and onto the boat.

But it's all good fun.

mal555

21-10-2016, 08:07 AM

Good for vans... Not so sure about salt water... Cheers

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Apparently the UK trailer boaters mostly use electric drums, something to do with laws requiring hand brakes. When you read their forum stories, besides the obvious chronic corrosion issues, they try to launch without getting the hubs into water or have the boat lifted off the trailer with a crane and slings?!

giddyup58

09-04-2017, 06:26 PM

Hi all.
Been a while since my last update.
My Mercury mechanic mate decided he needed a full foolscap page of parts to refurbish the twin 200hp 2.5 Mercs, so it took a while to amass the parts.
He has since pulled everything apart, I've two packed all the black bits, and they're almost back together again now.

115530 115531

Took a while to finalise the hydraulic steering and tie bar, but I'm happy with the results.

Tried to fit the controllers and all the gauges to the dash, but it was never going to look factory, so I built a mould for a better more practical dash, stripped out the old version and laid up and fitted a new dash:

115532 115533 115534 115535 115536

Pretty happy with the results. Plenty of room for gauges and GPS & Fish finder screens, switches,fuse panel etc.

While I had the spray gun out, I modified the rear deck, which was holding dirt and grime. Literally ground out a place for water to flow out from, on both sides. The photos were taken before top coat was sprayed on.

115537 115538

I fitted the electric trim tabs, after a bit of modification. They didn't hold their shape as well as I'd like, so we strengthened them and set up a teak block on each tab to set the ram at the correct angle, given that the hull has such a deep V, the semi pod encroached where the ram needed to be. It now does the job properly without binding up.

We welded studs to the tabs so no bolt heads protruded. Mainly because it wasn't that hard and because we had to fill a couple of holes which were no longer being used.

115539

Another little project was to remove the cockpit floors and get rid of the outboard S/S fuel tanks and the Alloy centre tank.
I never liked the idea of 3 tanks, so I think I'll go for a 400litre plastic centre tank, and keep the outboard voids for live bait and/or kill tanks, or storage or flotation or something...

Also, I really disliked the fact that it only carried 80 litres of fresh water, so I fitted a 120litre Vetus rubber (?) triangular bow-tank.
I fitted it all in, but the 120 litre Vetus will only let out 90 litres. Admittedly, that was gravity feed and not being drawn out bu a pump.
I may just bite the bullet and glass in the fore-peak and form a larger built in tank. I think I can get over 150 litres which will give plenty of weight forward to compensate for the twin outboards and will give plenty of water for showering...

Just spent the last few days working on the interior paint prep. It's a horrid job and I have been putting it off for so long, as my poor old bod doesn't like all the odd angles and tight spaces.
This is the 3rd highbuild that I've rubbed back. and it's now coming right. Just takes a long time to rub it back properly.
And then there's the problem with painting it. The cabin itself will be easy enough, but the bathroom presents difficulties because it's very tight and I'm kinda ... large...

Hopefully, more soon.

inveratta

09-04-2017, 06:40 PM

just wanted to thank Giddyup58 in the forum and glad to have the opportunity with this update ...he answered a couple of questions from me at length and was very helpful.....I am very grateful to find such expertise is so openly shared.Thank you.

giddyup58

12-04-2017, 08:04 AM

16-04-2017, 08:33 PM

Electric drum brakes are a decent option for boat trailers. Often they are configured with short lengths of hose per drum (anchored to the mudguard) and a standard garden type male fitting so a hose can be connected to flush water through them. Be it discs or drums, salt water is savage regardless. An electric drum setup will usually cost less than an electric over hydraulic setup (talking 2 ton plus setups). I have operated both setups.

To the OP, fabulous resto mate! Been there and done that repeatedly and I know how it feels! From my perspective, especially when your customer puts in a magazine! Twice!

An excellent labour of love dude! Well done.

giddyup58

20-04-2017, 10:11 AM

Hi all.
Bit of an update.
Stopped groaning and being a big sook, and finally got serious about painting the interior.

Here's the interior finally sanded. In a perfect world I would have hit it one last time with a coat of high-build, but I honestly couldn't face sanding it for a 4th time,
so I went wet on wet - highbuild where needed, immediately followed by top coat before it cured.

115569

Painted out the bathroom first:

115570 115571

Next, glossed the cabin:
115572 115573

Then, non-skid to cabin floor:
115574

And now I'm going down to non-skid the bathroom floor, so, but for parts, (electrics/dash access panel, bathroom door, ceiling infill, anchor locker door, water tank cover etc), that's the painting done.

Next, I'll fit the side windows (frameless acrylic, double sided taped to cabin), and have a new screen fitted, which will go a long way to weather sealing the cabin. Fitting the cabin door as well would help.
Then, probably fit gunwale rubber and get the boys at Sea-Dog to modify, polish and help fit the stainless.

Which only leaves... everything else!

Still agonising over outboard(s) and fuel tank size.
I'm not totally happy with the twin 1993 200hp Merc 2.5's that we've refurbished, as I think they will go through unacceptably huge amounts of fuel, compared to a modern 4 stroke.

My original idea was for a single 300hp Suzuki, so we will see what transpires in the next few weeks.
Lots of fit-out to go on with prior to motors becoming critical.

But, the end is getting closer...

And BM, I'll definitely have a better play with those electric drum brakes.
I really don't want to add $2750 to convert to discs.

Dirtyfuzz

20-04-2017, 11:16 AM

The rebuild is looking smick mate! sorry if I missed it in previous posts but what sort of non slip paint are you using on the floor/walk areas
Thanks
Fuzz

Sent from my iPhone using Ausfish forums

giddyup58

20-04-2017, 06:30 PM

[QUOTE=Dirtyfuzz;1630836]The rebuild is looking smick mate! sorry if I missed it in previous posts but what sort of non slip paint are you using on the floor/walk areas
Thanks
Fuzz

The paint is Concept 2pac 600, which is what I used for the rest of the boat, just tinted a lightish gray.
Method is to mask out the area you want in non-skid, light sand with 240 grit or so, wipe over with prepwash, then a heavy coat of the desired colour at low pressure (so you don't blow over-spray over the whole boat).
I then added AwlGrip paints "Griptex" to the wet paint, (punch a few holes in the top of the can and use it like a salt shaker), then let it all tack off a bit before applying another heavy coat. Always works out nicely.
If you don't have spray gear, it can be done with a paint roller. Just don't be tempted to add the glass beads to the paint - shake them on as I said, then roll on a thick coat. Your roller sleeve will be a throw away.

Hope that helps.

Dirtyfuzz

20-04-2017, 06:38 PM

Awesome thank you very much

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giddyup58

22-04-2017, 10:43 AM

So, got all of the non skid finished.

Couple of pix:

Bathroom masked out:
:115582

All done and de-masked:
115583 115584 115585

Now, time to get the old girl closed up and get stuck into the interior fit out. Lots of timber work to do, which is always very satisfying. Pity that teak is so expensive.

I have the cushions that came with the boat and from memory, they were in pretty good condition.

Other things will be:
fitting the electric loo;
plumbing in the sink & shower;
plumbing in the HWS. (I have a 12v system for it, but more on that later);
Insulating and lining the ceiling.

Plenty to play with for a while.

giddyup58

28-04-2017, 07:25 PM

Hi all.

Been very busy with the ol' girl for the last week.

Plenty of time spent painting parts:
115613

Then, a big 4 stroke outboard came up locally for the right money and I couldn't say no.

Had to repair the transom holes previously drilled for the 2 x 200hp 2 stroke Mercurys:
115614 115615 115617

Then, fitted the 300 Suzuki.
I built the new pod transom to suit twin 25" legs, and as it happened, the height at the centre was exactly 30", which was a match for the XXL Suzi.
You will note that it is raised to the 3rd hole, which is 1 1/2" up. This should be the right height, as the 300mm (12") pod needs the engine to be raised 1", and the cup on modern props should easily cope with the extra 1/2".

115618 115619

So, I'm pretty happy with where it sits.

Bit disappointed that I've lost 100hp,but really pleased that the 300 will be significantly more economical than the mercs' and at the end of the day, probably not that much slower.
Given that it should be relatively cheap to run and still have a good turn of speed, it should get used a lot more than the 2 stroke set-up, so it's all good and finally stops me agonising about my previous choice.

Fitted the motor yesterday, and spent the day today going over all the paint defects and I started rubbing the whole boat down with 3000 wet&dry and re-cutting and polishing.
I got the entire cockpit and dash done and stb'd half of the hull and decks. Should get the rest done tomorrow, as I really want to get the perspex side windows in to weatherproof the cabin. Haven't been able to do it until now, as I needed to keep the window holes uncovered so I could spray the interior and have a bit of ventilation.
115620

Next, gunnel rubber, a new flybridge screen and then on with the fit out.
Naturally, it will be new fuel system, batteries and engine wiring and steering first. Champing at the bit to take it for a run!

All I have to do now is sell off a pair of counter-rotating fully refurbished 200's and a garage full of spares!

Any takers?

ericcs

29-04-2017, 10:21 AM

the lighter weight with only 1 motor will another bonus!

giddyup58

29-04-2017, 04:50 PM

the lighter weight with only 1 motor will another bonus!

Roger that!

giddyup58

19-05-2017, 03:50 PM

After fitting up the motor, I set up the hydraulic steering and routed all the engine wires and fuel hose.
It has all turned out quite neatly.

115689

Fitted the dashboard out:

115691

Obviously, there's still more to go on, but everything that came with the motor is now mounted.

Fired it up and what is really remarkable is how quiet it is and how easily it started...

I then got rid of the 3 under-floor tanks with a total of 400 odd litres, to be replaced by a single 300 litre unit under the centre cockpit floor section.
That tank should get under way in the next week or so.
Biggish job pulling up the floors which had been epoxied down, making good any collateral damage and refitting the outer floors, but I was never happy the way I had set it up.

Now the outer two compartments can be used for live bait or kill tanks, so I'll get the boat on the water and see what's needed..

115692

Attended to a few paint defects and than finally got the gunwale rubbers on:.

115696

Hooked it up and took it to have the windscreen and cabin side windows fitted.

115693 115694

While getting that done, I pulled out all of the teak parts that came with the boat so they could get some attention.

Here's an example of the condition of the parts.
I think it's going to take a little bit longer to fix them than I had originally thought...

115695

But, getting closer every day...

Donutmaster

20-05-2017, 12:40 PM

I love the look of this boat. You're doing an amazing job!

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Ausfish mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=91595)

scottar

20-05-2017, 03:44 PM

It has come up great. Are you going the full monty with a hardtop and full screens?

giddyup58

21-05-2017, 04:56 PM

Scottar :
In the past on this size trailer boat, I have gone for a standing height bimini with removable screen infill and side curtains, an overhead S/S rocket launcher to hold the outriggers, rods, anchor light. steaming light , and cockpit flood lights. I've never been a fan of full camping covers.
Regarding a hardtop, now that I'm thinking about it, I don't think it will work with the bridge-deck layout. It will be a flat structure set way too high to look right aesthetically.
I used the bimini system on a Pride Sunseeker (Bridge-deck model) I had over 20 years ago (was it really that long ago??), and it looked really good and was super practical.

Donutmaster: Thanks man. I kinda like it too...

Now i"m just waiting for it to come home from the screen guy.

Waiting, waiting...

giddyup58

26-05-2017, 09:40 PM

Got the boat back yesterday, and I'm quite happy with the new windscreen and cabin side perspex. Wiper sits a bit low, but hopefully I'll get used to it.

115749 115747 115748 115746

I managed to get the bow roller and bow rail on, after fully polishing the boat again to get rid of all the black sikaflex smears from fitting the gunwale rubbers and the side windows..
May modify the bow rail and figure out how to incorporate a "Jacobs Ladder" for boarding over the nose from the beach.
The bow roller is from Lone Star and is a nice bit of kit.

115750

The intention is to get a 9kg Rocna anchor and a Lone Star drum winch.

Apart from making the side pockets and fitting the transverse bunk windows/ports, the major "boat building" is just about done and I'm having a nice change of pace with fit out, making it all pretty and most importantly, putting on the jewellery!

The teak that I played with over the last week came up OK, but it doesn't look new, so I'll have to give that a bit more consideration. I'll get some on the boat tomorrow and see how it looks fitted...

I put the boat and trailer onto the weigh bridge on the way home and I was very pleasantly surprised to find that it only weighs 2200kg on the trailer. That's about half a ton less than I was expecting.
The prop calculator is giving some very exciting performance figures with the 300 Suzuki...

giddyup58

20-08-2017, 09:09 PM

Hi all.

It has been quite a while since my last update, as things have been very busy.
But I did manage to get a bit done on the boat.

I removed the old tank and had a new alloy 320 litre tank made. I fitted 18mm breather so it would fill quickly without spitting back, as often happens with a single 1/2" breather.

The tank area had to be properly prepared - all the end grain has been sanded and given 3 good coats of "everdure" to totally seal the timber.
116099

Next, flow-coated the whole area and fitted the tank onto a few small nylon spacers so air can circulate.
116100
You may notice that the tank has been plumbed and the wiring well underway.
Also, there is water everywhere, as I had just finished hoseing the cockpit out. It is by far the best way to get rid of the itchies...

There's a 750 auto bilge pump in the sub-floor sump, and a 2000gph in the plastic enclosure.

On either side, 100mm up off the deck, are the floors of the the side pockets. They have been glassed in and the end-grain everdured.
I have built the side pockets, but no pictures yet,

So, as things have quietened down again, I hope to have a big push in the next few days and make some progress.
I'm waiting for an air stapler and S/S staples to turn up from the States, so I can have a go at some simple upholstery - the side pockets and head-linings maybe...

Next is to finish the side pockets, start trimming and finish the wiring, which will take me a while as it's not my favourite part of building boats...

giddyup58

11-09-2017, 07:05 PM

Hi all.

A bit of progress on the old Mustang.
The cockpit was looking so unbelievably daggy, that I had to do something about it.
My intention was to put carpet down, but it's a real shame to spill fishy bits on new carpet, so I decided to fair and paint it all.

So it would look factory, I dry fitted 12mm x 12mm x 1.4mm alloy angle around all the floor hatches. By far the easiest and quickest way to get perfect lines, but it still took the best part of a day to get right,

I then got out the grinder and the epoxy and micro-balloons and prepped the area in readiness for high build:
116230 116231

Lots and lots of masking, then highbuild, sanding and highbuild again:
116232 116233

All sanded again, more masking, and gloss painted all the boarders.

Next, left it to cure properly, lots more masking then spray the non-skid:
116234 116235

The hatches were done off the boat:
116236

Strip the masking off and start to fit up the pre-made alloy dress rings, but the cruddy old inner hull sides spoil the effect.
116237

I had intended to line the side pockets, but for some reason I decided to flowcoat the offending areas.
So another few hours produced this - (there is a spare piece of alloy half under the stbd side pocket, in case you wondered):
116238 116239 116240

Now, I'm happy!

Hopefully, more soon,

552Evo

11-09-2017, 07:27 PM

Very nice. Good work it looks great. Can you still access ( from the new hatch ) to run cables etc
Jamie

Saltwater fishing, boat mad but has a job that gets in the way.

brett62

13-09-2017, 08:01 AM

giddyup58 the boat is coming up better than new and have been watching this post like many. I know its hard to put a time on these types of projects as its very much like restoring a vintage car in some ways. You really don't know what you will find until you start to open things up and your best plans go to crap in a heart beat. You had a firm plan from the start unlike my project which keeps growing and start to wonder if I will ever get to the end.

Love watching the transformation and take my hat off to you, keep the photos coming.

giddyup58

04-10-2017, 06:44 PM

Hi all.

Couple of quick snaps:

Took a while to wire up the trailer breakaway system properly and the tow vehicle electric brake system, but finally done.
116358

Everything else on the trailer was ready, so I got a RWC and took off to Cleveland MRD to have trailer measured.
Pleasantly surprised with how well it tows, but the truck's a bit gutless...

I was supposed to get it all into this car-park, but that was never going to happen. I parked across the road, but they refused to inspect it unless it was in the car-park.
116359 116360

Up anchor, and off to Zillmere. No sweat - registered trailer and boat!

I managed to upholster the side pockets in the cockpit and fitted the seats. Notice, a gas suspension base on my side:
116361

So, a couple of small things to finish, then sea-trial time!

super56r

04-10-2017, 09:59 PM

Can't see the attachments mate.

Sent from my iPhone using Ausfish forums

giddyup58

10-12-2017, 09:00 PM

Hi all.

Update time.

After registering the boat and trailer, I took the boat to a timber interior specialist to help out with the teak fit out.
I was in a hurry to get it done and with work commitments I wasn't going to get to it any time soon, so I farmed it out, however that turned into an expensive disaster. It's being remedied now, but at the expense of nothing else being addressed for weeks.

I won't even post photos of the disgraceful job that was presented.

Anyhoo, heaps else to get done...

I was very keen to get the boat in the water to make sure everything was in working order and that the fit up was right regarding engine height and prop selection. We did a major service on the Suzuki which took the best part of half a day and continued with the wiring. My deepest thanks to my good mate Cyril who has been invaluable in his assistance with all things mechanical for the past number of years. He looked after the service and the wiring.
http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116571&d=1512900909&thumb=1 (http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116571&d=1512900909)

Fitted dual batteries and battery switch, tidied wiring and essentially got everything working properly.

I had to spend a bit of time on the front hatch to make it weather proof and I think that's just about right now, which is an odd thing to say considering I have it taped down with green tape in the photo!

So, no more excuses - time to launch:

116572

Trailer lived up to expectations and was not a joy to use. It's going to need a bit of fettling before I'm happy with it.

The boat however, was amazing!

Handles fine at low speed
116573

Handles even better at high speed
116574 116575

We half filled the fuel tank - 160 litres, but didn't add any water to the bow tank, which takes 120 litres.
The prop that came with the motor was a Suzuki 16x18.5" which we thought was not enough pitch, so I bought a hub kit for a Mercury Laser II 21" prop, thinking it would be a better fit.
The pitch was close, but the motor hit interrupter, so we may need another 2" of pitch, but the diameter was definitely too small - 14.5" as opposed to 16".
It didn't want to hold the plane under 4,000rpm (which was a respectable 25 odd knots). The bigger blade area of the Suzuki style propellers should help it hold on at much lower revs.
Also, the trim tabs weren't connected. When they are, a touch of down tab will help greatly.

So, the $64,000 question: How fast does it go?

Straight out of the box, no tabs, wrong prop, hitting interrupter - 43knots.

Not bad in a 25 footer...

Next - trailer mods, finish teak work, finish wiring, fit VHF, fit drum winch and anchor gear, more wiring, fit live bait tank plumbing, finish stainless work, canopy, clears and cabin soft furnishings.

Still quite a bit to do.

shakey55

11-12-2017, 07:01 AM

Giddyup58

I have just this morning read your entire rebuild thus far.

Although I haven’t worked in my trade as a shipwrights/boatbuilder for more that two and a half decades, I take my hat off to you.

I would love to have the time, the money, the dedication and skills that you have shown to undertake and complete such a rebuild.

Fantastic job and can’t wait for the completion, launching and final review on its performance.

Sent from my iPad using Ausfish forums

brett62

11-12-2017, 08:40 AM

43 knots zooooooooooooooooom

Well that should have you at spot X quickly.

Looks great and look forward to the final photos and results. Great work.

Angler Fish Lover

19-12-2017, 03:55 PM

Wow! (https://plus.google.com/u/0/116177373565796032643)!!! This is Amazing. (https://www.ausfishwarehouse.com.au/) You've done such an amazing job from where it came. (http://www.facebook.com/AusFishWarehouse/) Well done Sir. (https://www.ausfishwarehouse.com.au/):) (https://ausfishwarehouse.blogspot.com.au/)

giddyup58

17-02-2018, 11:58 PM

Hi all.

I manage to get a bit done to the boat overt Xmas.
Wiring is basically finished, but for the electric loo and the anchor winch, and the fresh water system is done.

Pump room, where WC would usually go,
Pipes running under port side cupboard,
Heat exchanger, still needing hot water feed from motor,
Sink filling...
116763 116764 116765 116766

I'm talking with upholsterers at the moment to get the Bimini happening and the rest underway...

You may recall my earlier worries about my drum-braked trailer...
Well, I bit the bullet and purchased a very lightly used Tinka 3500kg trailer which was sitting under a 773L for the past 25 odd years. No rust whatsoever, and electric/hydraulic disc brakes! I admit, I was very taken with it and was definitely wearing those legendary rose coloured glasses.

Unfortunately, it was not until after I had paid for it and taken possession, that I realised the calipers were totally rusted and were going to cost $600 to refurbish, the 11" top hat discs were unusable and totally unavailable new and the hubs with their monster parallel bearings were worthless without new discs.

The wheels were 14" Landcruiser 6 stud and nothing was going to be easy to get the brakes operational, so eventually after much research, I decided to lose the lot except for the wheels and tyres, and replace with new gear from Active Fabrications at Beenleigh.

Further, the SensaBrake unit on the trailer was an old original (and probably faulty) and needed a proprietary in car controller to work. My Tekonsha P3 (the latest and greatest controller available), was totally incompatible, and a new bespoke in car controller (requiring a pressure pad on the brake pedal!) cost around $500 plus installation.

I had no real choice other than to completely rebuild the brake system, which included removing the existing overlay stub axles and fitting new stub axles and caliper mounting plates with parallel Dexter bearings, new gal hub discs and new gal calipers. I also put my hand up for a new AlKo IQ7 controller, which although paid for and promised last week, may turn up next week...

Here's a couple photos of the drum braked "Franken-Trailer"

116756 116757

It tows really well and I went to a lot of trouble to keep it very low, but it just didn't "look" right and I was never happy with drum brakes on a boat trailer.
Turns out I could have changed over to disc brakes with the IQ7 for under $2,000...

Here's the replacement when I got it home.
Note the 3" American style tow hitch. It didn't last long...

116758

Refurbishment begins:

116759 116760 116761 116762

Given that I had decided to strip it to its component pieces, it made sense to give it as much protection as possible, and in that regard, I followed Ozscott's advice used a 125mm grinder with wire brush fitting to surface prep the entire structure, scrupulously cleaned and degreased it with Aqua Clean, sprayed 2 coats of Xtoll rust buster followed by 2 coats of Xtoll easy gal, the 2 coats of spray gal to get the colour right.

The axles got the Xtoll treatment followed by a coat of red paint, and the springs and hangers got Xtolled and black spray gal.

I gave the fiberglass mudguards a spray job and 2 pac'd the wheels as well.
Fitted all new Viking rollers and 63mm bearing buddies, and modified the winch post to suit the Mustang.

New LED lights, new brake lines and a new tow hitch and except for the new stickers, it's all but ready.
Wired the tow Disco to suit the IQ7, now just waiting for the actual IQ7 so I can fit it, then take it to Leo at United to commission it.

AlKo will give a 12 month warranty if you fit it yourself, but will extend it to a 3 year warranty if one of their authorised/approved distributors does it and sends in the paperwork. Fair enough.

So...
There's still a bit to do yet, but at least it is useable.

One foot after the other...

giddyup58

18-02-2018, 12:07 AM

Pic's of the completed trailer:

116769 116770 116771 116773 116772

shakey55

18-02-2018, 05:58 AM

Coming together very nice. A great project

Sent from my iPhone using Ausfish forums

inveratta

18-02-2018, 05:17 PM

I always click on this project when its updated.......like so many of us, I am really impressed at the attention to detail and the patience involved in working round the bits that didnt work out first time ..but are fixed..Thanks for sharing this journey......old boats.....so much work to get back ..but some people manage it .

poonabayking

18-02-2018, 06:38 PM

from a young bloke to a seasoned fisho.. Mate, if i get half the knowledge and a quarter of your passion when i hit the magic 60s ill be a happy man. Thanks for the read and fantastically presented. I hope you get a bucketload of good time in your rig

giddyup58

18-02-2018, 07:49 PM

Crooked

20-02-2018, 09:41 AM

This project is looking great, thanks for all of the updates. I'm about to start doing a rebuild myself, bit smaller though it will be a 5.5 cruise craft rambler. I'm just gutting it at the moment and still tossing up whether to use polyester resin or epoxy. I've read all the info on strengths etc and obviously epoxy is much more expensive. What have you used in your rebuild and how has it worked for you?

giddyup58

20-02-2018, 07:02 PM

Stick with poly.
Epoxy is much harder to work with and significantly more expensive.
Look at it this way - your Rambler is how old?
The glass is still good, I'd venture.
Just the timber has gone rotten?
So poly lasts, and lasts. The timber doesn't, but it has taken how long to get to the point where it needs replacement?
My vote is Polyester resin (from AA Fiberglass supplies at Brisbane shiplifts) and CD construction ply from Bunnings.
That combo will probably outlive all of us if done correctly. You do not need the synthetic wood replacements...
Let us know what you decide.
I used poly everywhere for fiberglassing resin, except for the pod construction, which was done with vinylester asI wanted the extra strength and waterproofing that Vinyl brings.
Everything that had to be glued was done with epoxy and cabosil, and all fairing "bog" was epoxy and micro-baloons.
Just remember, you can't poly flow coat over epoxy. It won't stick.
If you need to know more, PM me. Happy to help.

giddyup58

04-03-2018, 06:09 PM

Hi all.

Finished the trailer last week.
A huge thanks to Leo at United, who fitted and commissioned the !Q7 brake controller for me.
Very knowledgeable and very reasonable in his charges.

Went to the ramp and swapped trailers yesterday.

I was very surprised how good Frankentrailer has ended up. It towed really well and the boat launched very easily by hand.
When building it, I went to a lot of trouble to get the boat as close to the ground as possible, so it was a huge shock to see how high it sits on the replacement Tinka.
But, as I have bleated about previously, Frankentrailer was fundamentally flawed by the drum brakes and now I can drop the leg in the driveway without hitting the skeg.

We got the boat onto the trailer with a bit persuasion, but it was listing about 10 degrees and heavily nose down, so rather than be "that guy" at the ramp trying to set up the trailer, I bolted for home (only 3k's) and spent 4 hours today adjusting the rollers... 56 of them...
116820

Pretty happy with the result, except for the fact that the tow hitch is now 200mm higher than I am happy with. That in itself is not too bad, as to make it all work, I had to flip the towbar tongue upside down and remount the ball to gain the height, but that completely blocks the reversing camera's view of the tow hitch... Which is inconvenient.
OK, probably easier to remount the camera, but I tow more than the Mustang and I was happy with the height of the ball, so I will modify the trailer to suit. All good fun...

116821 116822 116823

So now, proof will be in the launching. Hopefully, it will work as well as Frankentrailer. Theoretically, I should just have to back it in a bit further, but the back of the Disco was so far from the water that I don't think it will be an issue.

And I do admit, it was a delight to tow a 2,500kg rig that had powerful brakes. I had the Tekonsha P3 set at 7 volts. I needed 14 with the drums, and they still didn't work as well. Also, the Tinka "looks" right. But Frankentrailer definitely had character...

Plenty to go on with, now that the trailer diversion is all but over. More soon.

catshark

04-03-2018, 07:02 PM

credit to you , amazing finish and looks a real head turner, admire you blokes with the patience to do big jobs like this, again well done.

ozscott

04-03-2018, 07:46 PM

Wow!

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

DAVE_S

04-03-2018, 07:57 PM

Seen it in tow today made my head turn

giddyup58

04-03-2018, 08:08 PM

Seen it in tow today made my head turn
Was it sitting nicely on Frankentrailer, or munted on Tinka? ;)

DAVE_S

05-03-2018, 07:40 PM

Black tinka

ranmar850

06-03-2018, 12:48 PM

Did you do the re-prop yet? performance was impressive.

giddyup58

21-03-2018, 12:30 PM

Did you do the re-prop yet? performance was impressive.

I tried a 14.25 x 21 Mercury Laser 2, and it dropped 300rpm but kept the same top speed.
I'm thinking the motor needs to go up a hole, as I can't figure the drop in revs but same top speed.
Got the tabs working and they level the boat nicely without affecting speed.
Don't know if it's BS or not, but someone on this site reckons his "dad's" Haines Formula with a 300 Suzi does 50knots dead.
If that's for real, I'm thinking mine should do the same, as it's a very close copy of the Formula - same length, beam, deadrise and similar weight.
Maybe the clear-water 300mm pod is slowing it down, but I really don't think so.

Regarding the trailer, I modified the draw bar to drop the hitch 175mm and fitted a 25mm higher goose neck, so it all sits at the right height now.
Put some more air (18lb!!) in the rear left tyre of the Disco and suddenly, it tows better. Still gutless...
116889

Looking at fitting the anchor winch in the next few days. Bloody rain...

ozscott

30-03-2018, 05:47 AM

Nice work m8. Is that a D1 Tdi?

Cheers

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

giddyup58

07-04-2018, 08:18 PM

[QUOTE=ozscott;1641591]Nice work m8. Is that a D1 Tdi?

Cheers

Aye, that it is. '98 manual.
Had the fuel pump recalibrated and it found another 15% power - Up from 50hp to 65hp at the wheels!
Pathetic really.
Looks nice, is (oddly) reliable, and is kind of comfortable, until you sit in a late model X5 or ML.
Struggles a bit with the boat when taking off (no surprises there), but I won't upgrade until I decide if I'm keeping the boat or not.

giddyup58

09-06-2018, 05:01 PM

Hi all.
Haven't done much in a while as I've been a bit engrossed with the old Haines SO rebuild, but I did manage to rearrange the dash to cater for the new 9" Lowrance,
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Not quite as simple as it looks, as I had to remove the old compass, fill the holes and repaint the dash,
I took the opportunity to matt-black the horizontal surfaces and I'm much happier with the current look.
Just need to fit the drum winch circuit breaker and a compass and that should just about see the dash done.

giddyup58

13-06-2018, 06:56 AM

Hi all.

Just got the boat back from the trimmers. Bimini, front and side clears.

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Waiting on new helm chairs.

The little Haines has upset the time-line somewhat, but the Mustang is getting very close now...

19-06-2018, 06:11 PM

Fabulous job mate! Very well done!

giddyup58

25-08-2018, 06:58 AM

Hi all.

Just got back after a couple months of away time with the family, and fitted new seats.
I wanted armrests and a bit more "stately" appearence.
Found these at Sam Allens and I really like the look.

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I also managed to get the circuit breaker for the anchor winch in, so no excuses not to finish the wiring...

The little Haines is taking a lot more work than expected because it was so badly hogged, but it's all straight now and I'm "blue printing" the hull.

Shouldn't be much longer now.
Famous last words...

gazza2006au

25-08-2018, 03:49 PM

I remember this thread, That is a great looking boat Giddy wish i was around to see you doing the build mate, A+ class build brother :)

giddyup58

10-10-2018, 06:07 PM

Little Haines is ready for paint, so I should be able to get back onto Mustang soon...
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gazza2006au

11-10-2018, 05:44 PM

Giddy thats a first for me to see a keel like that i suppose i am use to alloy boats, are u going gel cote or 2k paint mate?

giddyup58

18-10-2018, 06:06 PM

Giddy thats a first for me to see a keel like that i suppose i am use to alloy boats, are u going gel cote or 2k paint mate?

Sorry for the late reply.
I'm using Jotun paint this time. I was really happy with the undercoat and it has been designed specifically for boats.
Actually painting it at the moment in a mates booth.
117961
That's it getting final highbuild before sanding and putting it on the trailer.
Should have it home by next weekend...

giddyup58

16-11-2018, 08:50 PM

Finally got back into the Mustang.

My mate Cyril finished the wiring for the WC and the Drum Winch, so all I had to do was cut the hawse hole in the deck, fit the rope/chain roller, thread the chain cover over the chain, buy a 6kg Rocna anchor and fill the anchor line onto the drum.

Anchor from Gold Coast, so that was easy.
Fitting hawse and roller, 2 hours. Don't ask me why it took so long. It's just not that complicated.
Threading chain through cover - 2 hours. But now that I know how, it could be done in 10 minutes...
Loading the drum - 1/2 hour. Almost impossible on your own. Luckily, wife rolled up just befor I had a tantrum.

118212 118213

Next, finish mounting the sounder/plotter. Shouldn't take too long - transducer bracket already mounted, transducer cable penetration done all I need to do is run the cable and neaten everything up.

Almost out of excuses not to actually use the boat...

giddyup58

17-12-2018, 07:53 PM

Have a look at this:
https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/urangan/motorboats-powerboats/24ft-mustang/1197317114
I really need to keep off Gumtree. Too much sillyness...

giddyup58

03-01-2019, 08:59 PM

I took the family for a cruise up the river in the Mustang last week to try out a new prop. The motor came with a 16x17 Lexor, which I thought would be way too small, but it turned out to only be 2" or 3" too small. Engine went straight to 6200rpm at about 3/4 throttle
The problem, is that the prop is LH and the boat really prefers RH rotation. Consequently, the whole trip mwas spent buggerising around with the trim tabs. PITA.
Im lucky that the Suzuki gearbox is happy to swing either way and can be converted very easily from Left swing to Right. It's as simple as unpluging an electrical component and pluging in a different one.
Borrowed a couple of large diameter Suzi props - 18.5" and 20" to get the pitch worked out, but I really think we need to run a 4 blader.
Obviously, a lot more testing to do...

ozscott

03-01-2019, 09:22 PM

Photos mate?

Cheers

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

giddyup58

07-01-2019, 06:55 PM

118510

Looks to be sitting about right - 150 litres fuel, 100 litres water up front, 165kg of passengers and chines just in the water. I'm happy with that.

Tried a 16X20 Suzuki prop on Saturday. but it had been modified and had a monsterous amount of cup added.
The good news, is that it was a RH swing prop, so the boat was a lot more balanced.
Gave it about 1" down on both tabs and trimmed the motor right out and it was the steadiest I have felt it.
I was about to fit a perma trim, but after reading the heated discussion elsewhere here abouts, I decided to get it as good as I can and Then try the foil.

So the 20" was too much pitch, and I got lucky and picked up a good 16x18.5 Suzuki prop today.

I know that one should only do 1 modification at a time, but I'm convinced that the motor needs to go up 2 holes, so I'll do that and run the 18.5 and see where that takes me.

118511
Mmmmmm - Shiny...

giddyup58

19-01-2019, 04:46 PM

Hi all.

I fitted the 16x18.5 and lifted the motor 3 holes, giving a total raise of 60mm from keel to cav plate.

118569 118570

Totally different boat, but if it needs to go any higher, I will have to change it from an XXL to an XL, which apparently is not that hard.

Took it to Tangalooma last Sunday in 15kts of ENE, and the ride really impressed me.
Very smooth, as one would expect from a 25' boat weighing 2 ton with 24 degrees deadrise.
Also very surefooted. It didn't steer from the bow at all, even when tabbed down and trimmed in.
And an absolute joy when running with the weather.

Only problem, was that the friction control on the hand throttle wasn't resistant enough, and hard landings opened the throttle a little every time, until I was blasting through nasty Moreton bay chop at 42 knots!
That little problem has since been fixed.

Last problem is the trailer.
My very burley son and I launched from RQYS, where we had the ramp to ourselves, so when it came time to retrieve, we took our time and tried every combination of trailer depth to get the boat to drive on.

118571

5 attempts, and still no luck, so I will have to seek outside assistance from a trailer manufacture/repair firm to set up the rollers correctly.

Still, confidence is so high that it's a good thing, "She who must be obeyed" is coming for a run to Peel tomorrow.

catshark

19-01-2019, 09:12 PM

Bit of a bummer 5 attempts to drive on,, looks good on the trailer i thought, youve a long boat and a heavy one, you have plenty of rollers to accomadate so whats happening ...would the boat be steering off course half way on the trailer? the trailer in the water looks about right .... trust you find the solution good luck..

scottar

19-01-2019, 10:04 PM

Noelm

20-01-2019, 04:10 AM

What are you pointing to in those last pictures of the bottom of the boat and motor?

giddyup58

21-01-2019, 12:09 PM

What are you pointing to in those last pictures of the bottom of the boat and motor?

Where the bottom of the motor brackets originally hit the transom.

giddyup58

21-01-2019, 12:16 PM

Not uncommon for a roller to catch a srake and "steer"the hull to one side. My Redco has chamfered rollers to allow the strakes to ride up over rollers as required. Can't see well enough in the pic on the mobile to see if yours is similar

No, they are square shouldered and what you are saying makes a lot of sense.

But I think it's still a question of adjustment.
I've had a lot of big trailer boats over the years, and this is the only one that has caused grief coming onto the trailer.

I took it out yesterday, got it on 1st go. Felt fine...
Pulled it out of the drink to find it totally on the pi55, rear right roller group vertical and about 250mm off centre!

Perhaps Leo at United can sort it out.

giddyup58

21-01-2019, 07:02 PM

Shock! Horror!

Leo has sold out!

Any idea where he's gone?

Marchy001

21-01-2019, 09:35 PM

My seafarer comes up the trailer off to one side at times. Mine is a roller catching a strake as Scottar mentioned above. Some ramps/trailer depths fine, some terrible and take multiple attempts. I too think it could be rectified with slight roller adjustment but so far I’ve been too lazy to do anything about it.

scottar

21-01-2019, 09:54 PM

118587

An option if you get no joy elsewhere.

giddyup58

17-04-2019, 08:36 PM

I've been so busy with the little Haines SO and the Ventura rebuild that the poor old Mustang has taken a back seat.

As I was preparing the Seafarer for paint over the last few days, I decided to finish what I had started on the Mustang.

You may recall that I had just about maxed out the height adjustment on the motor, so I decided to remove it from the boat and reconfigure the 30" XXL to a 25"XL, as I needed the motor to go higher yet.

While I had the motor off, I took the opportunity to modify the pod. I needed the transom height to come down 50mm so that the XL shaft length would work. Sounds easy, yeah? NOT!

Anyhoo, I rebuilt the entire top of the pod, which really didn't take that long once I figured what I needed to do.
119077 119078 119079

But I did procrastinate for weeks about fixing the paintwork.
I'm glad to say that it has now all been faired and painted, (I had a couple litres of the original paint hidden away, so colour matching wasn't a problem), and the new engine mounting holes have been drilled. I still need to fit a couple of spin-outs (so I can get to the bottom bolts), redo the non-skid and to refit the Suzi.
119047119080 119048

It will be nice to finish the Ventura and start using the Mustang again. We were on a roll with the Mustang and had just about sorted out engine heights and propeller sizes when I got caught up with rebuilding the little Haines and the Seafarer. When the Ventura is done, I'm all for using the boats instead of building them.

But I still have to fix the trailer issue with the Mustang. I noticed that the Tinka has provision for 4 x keel rollers.
I'm going to set the boat up on the keel rollers (when I fit some), and use the multi rollers to literally hold the boat upright. I've done a bit of research and this seems to be the accepted way now. Back in the day, we were all for multi rollers without keel support, but that may well have been proven to be incorrect.

We'll find out soon enough...

ranmar850

17-04-2019, 10:34 PM

giddyup58

19-04-2019, 06:39 AM

my last boat had a fully-rollered tilt cradle just like yours, it could be fussy about going on the trailer right if you weren't the right depth into the water, and I would have never even considered driving it on, just too easy to get a wobble roller wrong side of a strake. I believe you need keel rollers to centre them, and the fully tilt-rollered type are just not really suited to drive-on. not saying it can't be done, just more potential for stuff-ups. My current trailer has keel rollers, with skids running down onto each roller to ensure the boat will always want to slide down to centre. The rear is supported by bunks once it is fully on, and the only wobble rollers are right up the front--you can feel them rolling as you drive it up, and them, once the forefoot is on the vee guide in front of them, they only lightly touch. Took a while to get it adjusted perfectly, but now works a treat. See it here http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/showthread.php/207995-Weighbridge-BMT-figures?p=1654332&viewfull=1#post1654332 Looking at your trailer, I notice some of those wobble pairs are sitting almost vertical--is there any way of keeping them within the range of movement they need, which is a lot less? Not fitted wrong way around? One of my front pair was fitted arse-about, and it would get the wrong side of a strake. Took me a while to work out that they should only be fitted one way around, due to a small internal stop that was meant to restrict movement and make sure it always fell inwards, not outwards.

Love that trailer!

I have been thinking for a while now that centre rollers are the way to go. My trailer has provision for only 4 which I will install, and if I see improvement, we can quickly add a cassette with a roller every 18" over a 4M length. I really like the "nanny" skids which keep the keel directed to the rollers.

But I'm still so disappointed in my trailer as it is. In the mid 80"s, I had a bertram 25 on a monster tri-axle vac/disc set up with no center rollers, and it was the easiest boat ever to get on the trailer. Even if it got blown about at crazy angles, as soon as the 1st set of rollers engaged, the boat could be steered straight by merely turning the steering wheel.

It has to be a matter of adjustment with my current trailer...

shakey55

19-04-2019, 07:11 AM

118587

An option if you get no joy elsewhere.

Scott

Are those roller brackets coated/covered in plastic (the red). If so where did you get them.

Not seen them before

Sent from my iPhone using Ausfish mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=91595)

ranmar850

19-04-2019, 10:45 AM

I'm sure you have thought of this, but I think the general principle, if you have a need for sdjustment, is to get each wobble roller as far from a strake as possible when it is loaded, ie, try to get the wobble roller sitting halfway between two. If its adjusted so that they are close to a strake, more chance of getting it the wrong side.

I had one of those eazi-loaders on a previous trailer, it was gold for getting things centred. But, it was an ali boat, don't know how they would go with glass. You had to keep an eye on the top roller bobbin on each side, as that was where all the wear/stress was, and, if it wore through, it was metal to the hull. Cheap and easy to replace.

scottar

19-04-2019, 11:31 AM

Scott

Are those roller brackets coated/covered in plastic (the red). If so where did you get them.

Not seen them before

Sent from my iPhone using Ausfish mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=91595)

Mayfairs Wholesale Shakey

http://www.mayfairmarine.com.au/accessories/

Any Redco Tinka dealer should have access.

giddyup58

15-07-2019, 07:02 PM

My work on the Ventura is about done, so I have spent a bit of time back on the Mustang.
I still haven't sorted out the trailer, but that is def next cab off the rank.

Had a look at the outboard install and made a few modifications to the set up - previously discussed, raising the pod transom height 50mm and shortening the engine from an XXL to an XL. Won't know if anything is improved until the next water test, but we did find that the -ve trim had been reset way too high by the original owner of the motor so now holeshot should be much better.

Last time we took the boat out in mid January (has it really been that long!!!), a problem with the new drum winch cropped up.

When I rebuilt the boat, part of the exercise was to remove the front half of the deck/cabin so I could turn it upside down and strengthen it in the garage.
While it was off, I looked at the (then) Very accessible anchor locker floor, and decided, through sheer laziness, not to replace it.
Big mistake.
Every piece of timber in the boat was dead. How could I possibly think this one wouldn't be?

On the maiden usage of the drum winch (19.1.19) - which is an absolute ball tearer by the way - the anchor locker floor gave way...
I knew it. I heard and felt it. Confirmed when we got home, so I ran away and rebuilt the Seafarer instead.

I knew it was going to be a nasty repair, as the boat is all but finished and I had to do a big-ish interior grind. So I have managed to put it off. Until now.

Remove all loose upholstery, the drum winch, water tank filler and hose and all electrical wiring, mask up a "tent", literally, inside the cabin, suit up, full face respirator, gloves, safety thongs, and just do it. Most unpleasant...

Here's the removal in progress:
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Tent:
119668

After removal, grinding, vacuuming and hosing out:
119669

New floor, 3 laminates of epoxied 12mm marine ply drying:
119670

giddyup58

20-07-2019, 08:39 AM

Finished the locker floor repair.
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The top was epoxied down, glassed to the hull with epoxy on top, and a 25mm epoxy glue cove underneath.

Now I'm happy.

Just need to sort out the problem of the burst water tank, then get onto a bit of upholstering...

giddyup58

20-07-2019, 05:53 PM

You may recall the the Mustang has been put seriously onto the back-burner over the past few months, with my obsessing over the HH 1600 SO ski boat and the refurbishment of the Ventura.

I'm very pleased to say that I'm back onto the Mustang.

Obviously from the past couple of updates, the 300 Suzi has been removed, converted from an XXL to an XL and refitted after the pod was modified.
The damage caused by my slackness and the anchor winch has been repaired and future proofed, and the trailer adjustment will be happening soon...

But the biggest hold up with actually finishing the boat is the upholstery and the trim. The vinyl on the new seats is totally unavailable. There are several vinyls that are close, but nothing that is exactly the same.
I have now accepted the fact that I am going to have to have the new seats recovered in order to have the cockpit look like it has been thought about and not literally thrown together. I think the end result will far outweigh the inconvenience and cost of recovering perfectly good seats...

For the interior, I decided to go with the light grey backless carpet that we used in the Ventura for the ceiling and charcoal for the cabin sides and storage shelves. Lessons were learnt on the Ventura, so I made a quick MDF mold of the outline of the ceiling and used that to cut out the carpet:

119691

It worked really well. One piece, 2m wide and near 3m long, up in one go, no joins and no creases. Quite happy with it:
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Just need to get a bit more charcoal carpet to finish the main cabin, then lots more grey to do the transverse bunk room. That will be lots of fun!

The whole process is made so much easier and cheaper by using a suction gun and spray contact purchased in bulk. It is wonderful that the carpet actually sticks and stays when put in place.
Those stupidly expensive spray cans of contact are really not suitable for doing this type of work. They just do not go far enough and the cost would end up prohibitive.

The soft covers (cushions) will be getting done soon. The piping is blue, and it just doesn't work. Needs to be black, which will (should), then tie the cockpit and the interior together.

We'll see.

Chimo

20-07-2019, 06:45 PM

Really great job.

giddyup58

27-08-2019, 07:23 PM

Seeing the Ventura is done, I managed to spend some time on the Mustang.

It hasn't been in the drink for months, because I never managed to get the trailer looked at.
A couple of suggestions from some kind folk here steered me to make a few phone calls to alleged set-up geniuses, but unfortunately, none replied.

My poor long suffering mate Cyril (the friendly outboard mechanic), made a few suggestions re trailer set-up.

I took his advices and spent 5 hours on the weekend re-adjusting the rollers and adding keel rollers.
Nasty work for an old bloke with a bung knee, but I got it done and managed to talk No.1 son (now the proud skipper of the Ventura), into coming for a run.

On the way to the ramp, we stopped at the Weigh Bridge off the Port of Brisbane expressway, and still attached to the car, it weighed in with half fuel (160 litres and no water 150 litres), at 2540kg. So fully loaded we are well within the 3,500kg limit.
Given that the trailer is 840kg, the boat on the water on the day weighed 1,700kg.

Put in at RQYS, where the ramp is never busy, and launched and retrieved several times with not too much difficulty.
On a couple of occasions, the 2 front roller arms were staying perpendicular, which was upsetting the loading process. I think perhaps replacing the rubber stops under the roller arms may well fix that. So at least it is now useable. Although I do think fully keel rollered and skids will be the go.....

After the pod rebuild and outboard modifications, I was interested to see if the performance/handling was in any way improved.

Oh Boy.

It leapt out of the water like never before. We had noticed that the trim limiter had been set too high at it's lowest setting, so we were not getting enough tuck under.
Well, that's not the case anymore, and it is much better.

It still has the typical 24 degree deep V problem of laying into the wind, but a little down tab on the low side side quickly fixed that.
Trimming out was a revelation.
Lifting the motor (raising the height of the prop), has all but cured the porposing, and trimming out has had a marked effect on ride and speed.
It now feels more stable and somehow lighter, and is definitely quicker.
It still porpoises, but at least I can get some +ve trim out before it starts, which has made a big difference...

Previously, we got a best speed on a flat day on the river at 42.1knots
Now, on a choppy Moreton Bay, we got 44.8 one way and 45.2 the other.

It feels as if it could come up another hole...

giddyup58

04-11-2019, 09:15 PM

Hi all.

We have been using the Mustang a bit over the past few weeks, and decided that I have to stop it porpoising as it is tiring and uncomfortable.
At high speed, the cav plate was only just visible, and small amounts of trim would cause the dreaded porpoising. I could get away with about 25% +ve trim.

So I had a chat with ol' mate Cyril, and we decided to come up 1 more hole, fill the front water tank (100 litres) and 2/3 fill the fuel - 210 litres.

Took it for a run yesterday on the river. I can't believe it, but the porpoising has totally disappeared. I can trim the motor out so far that it throws a rooster tail behind the boat, with no porpoising. I can trim +50% with no slip and with NO ill effects, and top speed has climbed a bit more to 46.2kts. (with tide and wind...)

3,500rpm = 25kts @ 24lph = 1.91km/l
4,000rpm = 27kts @ 30lph = 1.66km/l
4,500rpm = 34kts @ 40lph = 1.57km/l
5,000rpm = 36kts @ 50lph = 1.34km/l
5,500rpm = 40kts @ 67lph = 1.10km/l
6,000rpm = 44kts @ 95lph = 0.86km/l
6,100rpm = 46kts @ 112lph = 0.75km/l

The most economical speed is 3500rpm, but the most economical fun is at 4,500rpm. The boat really settles nicely at speeds over 30kts, and the biggest jump in efficiency seems to be between 4,000 and 4,500 - 7 knot increase for 500 rpm, as opposed to roughly 3-4 knots per 500rpm just about everywhere else.

And the beauty of that speed, is the hull is so aggressive, the speed can be maintained in quite heavy conditions...

Luckily, now I do not have to fit the permatrim.
As has been discussed many times on these boating forums, foils are best seen as a "bandaid" for an incorrect design/set-up.
Best practice is to change set up - engine height, weight distribution trim angles etc. to cure the porpoising and if that doesn't work, fit a foil.

Setting up this boat has been a chore.
You will recall that we had to try about 5 propellers before we settling on the genuine Suzuki 3x16x18.5 as the best prop, change the leg of the motor to an XL from an XXL, redesign the pod height and play with weight distribution to get to this point. And thankfully, no foil...

The boat would be horrible without the trim tabs, as there is so much torque generated by the motor and the V is so acute (24 degrees), that on flat calm water she always runs portside depressed. Which is a bit annoying, and which a foil may well fix, but I'm ok to put the port tab down a touch to level things out...

Now that it is finally sorted out, it's time to finisht the rest.
Hopefully, some stainless and upholstery work in the next couple of weeks, then I may get into finishing the teak work.

ericcs

05-11-2019, 02:56 PM