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Dave666
16-05-2014, 07:10 PM
Just wondering if there is any reason why you would not run all electrics via a fused switch panel? Following is a list of what I am considering - via two fused (AF blade) 6 switch panels

Boat is a 19 foot half cab.


- Bilge pump - float operated
- Spare Bilge Pump
- Am/FM Stereo
- VHF Radio
- GPS / Sounder
- External Bilge / deck wash
- Anchor light
- Nav Lights
- Cabin Lights
- Under Gunnel Lights
- Deck Lights
- Auxiliary ( cig sockets / cabin fan)

Cheers
Dave

juggernaut
16-05-2014, 07:54 PM
That's what I would do and have done.

However, there are two schools of thought with the float switch operated bilge pump with some preferring to run directly off the battery (fused) so that it can't accidently be turned off via the switch panel. However I would think this really depends on how the boat is used i.e. overnighters, etc - I can see the benefits.

scottar
16-05-2014, 08:22 PM
No right or wrong ways. Juggernaut has raised a valid point with the bilge pump. In my rig the float switch is fed from the battery master switch through it's own in line fuse. That way the auto pump can't be accidentally turned off. The switch on the dash provides a manual overide for the float switch.

Personally, none of my electronics run through switches except those that dont have an "off" switch. In a marine environment, connections in electrics are inevitably the most common point of corrossion related failure. By running devices such as radios, GPS units and sounders through switches you are introducing possible failure points. I have lost count over the years the number of times a faulty switch has ultimately been the cause of a "faulty" electronic item. If however you can guarantee to keep your switch gear dry this issue is a lot less prevalent.

There is nothing wrong with doing it either way. Ultimately it is personal choice.

stevemid
16-05-2014, 09:16 PM
IMO a fused switch panel is the ideal for most things. Nothing worse than having to search through a jumble of in-line fuses for a device that is on the blink. Other than the bilge pumps, the other exception I have made is for the fridge. I was told by the original Ozefridge guy that since the compressors run in a pure contaminant-free environment, the motor bearings exhibit no wear after 10-15 years, therefore, since I like to have cold beer always on hand, I run my fridge on the sailboat directly off the solar regulator. The regulator protects the batteries against over-discharge. It has been running this way continuously since 2007.

Steve

TheRealAndy
16-05-2014, 10:02 PM
Everything should be fused and switched. 2 reasons, fire and failure. Fuses stop fires, and if there is a failure in your alternator then you want to be able to isolate everything. Same as if you have an engine failure, you want to save the battery for your radio.

Plus, a well wired up boat is easy to fault find when you are on the water..

scottar
16-05-2014, 10:57 PM
In line fuses are best used in isolated spots where only 1 fuse is required - feed for float switch, Master fuse to protect accessory supply main or where water will be an issue( provided you use the right fuse holder). If you are going to have electronics fed from distribution posts or blocks, use a fuse block - easier to keep tidy. I actually prefer to have a fuse block(s) under the dash away from spray and simply a basic switch panel up on the dash if there is any chance of water damage. It keeps as much of your system dry as is possible. All devices do require fuses for both fire prevention and minimisation of damage should a fault occur.