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View Full Version : Advice for underfloor esky/chill box needed please



dogsbody
19-07-2013, 05:45 PM
Gday viewers, I"m making a dead carcuss box under the floor in the tinny. I've glassed 2 single layer panels that need gluing to the foam. The question is what's best for the job? was gonna use contact adhesive but unsure about it. Talc resin bog mix perhaps?

It's going to be glassed over the top once these have been glued on and the side walls put in. Got some narrow woven stuff for the underside bits where the ribs sit in between the foam. I did it this way because to much room taken up if laid on top of the ribs, only need chillin for the day so not gonna lose to much coldness.

Glassed panel sitting in position

94771

Insert fancy pants esky in here

94770

Dave

Shark Poker
19-07-2013, 05:54 PM
So.... a shaped panel of ply underneath some pvc foam, and it will be glassed over and under?
And then walls and a floor board for a lid? Am I on the right track?
Pauly

dogsbody
19-07-2013, 06:00 PM
No ply, just rounded corners on the underside of the foam then glassed over, lid will be attached to underside of the false floor.

Shark Poker
19-07-2013, 06:22 PM
Ok sorry.
The 3 foam panels have spacings for the ribs and foam walls as well.

What type of foam is that -PVC or Klegecell?

At first I thought you should fibreglass underneath, but that is debatable in this application isn't it?
And do you plan to use exopy or perhaps polyester resin in both waxed and unwaxed?
Throw an extra layer of mat on the top surface to prevent breakage or wear thru from ice or whatever.

dogsbody
19-07-2013, 06:23 PM
Ahhhh ok, you're thinking gluing foam to ply, I'm with ya now. I just need to glue the sheet of preglassed panel to the foam, the panel of glass in pic isn't glued down yet, did it that way because the glass would sag in between the foam if done any other way I presume.

Shark Poker
19-07-2013, 06:31 PM
Ok so a pre made fibreglass sheet.
And do you fibreglass over the joins and walls at a later stage?

dogsbody
19-07-2013, 06:32 PM
Not sure what the foam is called, is goodo for esky type stuff. I'm using resin that sets hard without a coating (is that waxed?) Will flow coat once done.

I have glassed bottom of panels, none where the ribs will sit yet until I glue top panels on. Then use woven stuff for that.

dogsbody
19-07-2013, 06:33 PM
Ok so a pre made fibreglass sheet.
And do you fibreglass over the joins and walls at a later stage?

Yes to both

Shark Poker
19-07-2013, 06:36 PM
I think you should build it in such a way that you can take it out at a later date.
That way you can check under the floor for salt build up or corrosion.

A coat of resin and some foam tape is probably all you need underneath.

dogsbody
19-07-2013, 06:44 PM
It will be removable for cleaning etc, There's rubber on the rib edges that touch the floor that it will sit on, aid in protecting underside.

Gluing panels to foam, what would you recommend?

Shark Poker
19-07-2013, 06:55 PM
The easiest product is a hot glue gun.
Which is quick and effective and a cheap one from somewhere like bunnings should be fine.
Or you could use any adhesive or sealant really.
It is not a structural bond so there is no need to use resin.

dogsbody
19-07-2013, 07:00 PM
Cheers Pauly, much appreciated mate (beer) Never done glassing before but I love to give things a red hot crack.

Dave

Shark Poker
19-07-2013, 07:11 PM
Start on some off cuts or spare bits first!
Don't worry about "itching" which wimps suffer from. It wont hurt you.
I am here if you need help, but in the meantime will make room for other members to make suggestions for you.
Pauly

Rip it up
20-07-2013, 08:44 AM
I would tackle it like this.
Hot glue panel to the underside of each foam piece. Place in the hull with all rubber packers in place.
Grab a roll of brown packing tape. Cover all ribs between each foam section. Keep the tape smooth with no creases. Extend the tape 2" under the foam but on top of the rubber if that makes sense.
Resin won't stick to the packing tape. Therefore creating a mould surface. Use carbanuba car wax on the tape to help release.

Now fill the void between the rib and foam with a little talc bog and when still wet lay your full glass layer x2/3 over the foam and bog. Let cure. The key is to keep the resin to a minimum.

You should now be able to pop the glass off the tape with a gentle lift from a corner. You will have a neat fitting esky that won't slide. Add any sides with a hot glue gun and use talc bog the radius the internal corners wet on wet.

Flip the underside and apply 1x sealing layer over the whole area. Sanding the external corners to a radius for the glass.

It would be good to glass the exposed foam on the top of the sides. Then flowcoat inside to finish.

Sounds like a bit of work but the finish will look like a factory item that is designed to fit there.
Good luck.

dogsbody
20-07-2013, 07:20 PM
I like the wet on wet corners idea mate, will have a crack at that.

Panels glued with contact. Dropped into position, no movement forward/backwards (beauty newk!)
94797

Underside glassed
94798

Woven stuff between ribs, will do 2 layers I reckon
94799

to be continued...........

WalrusLike
20-07-2013, 10:57 PM
You may have the body of a dog.... But at least you don't have Muddy Toes. (Pic no.2)

Looks good. Hope it goes well for you.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

dogsbody
28-07-2013, 05:54 PM
Got sides on and started doing the bog rounded bits. Level the sides and I can start the glass inside.

How to tackle the inner glass when doing the corners, ie how should I cut the matting?

95022

Dave

Rip it up
28-07-2013, 07:58 PM
Hey dogs,

I would tackle it with a layer that looks like a cross. So basically cut/tear the corners to join on the vertical. Then patch over the verticals with a 6" torn strip of CSM.