Advice Needed On Pride Montego - Transom / Stringers

[Dave666]

As you can see the attached pictures show a bolt at the top of the transom which is encased in wet cardboard. I was also able to use my finger to dig out the wet rot from the bung. Fair to say the transom is "gone like last weeks pay".

I started to worry about the stringers and floor. Unfortunately I cannot access the stringers without cutting the floor. I noticed the serial plate in the splash well said "International Marine", which is also known as Carribean Boats. So I contacted them and they told me the floor and stringers are fiberglass only (no Timber).

I thought the "Pride" brand was a result of a couple of guys leaving international marine to build boats themselves. I know they copied the Carribean Baron and called it the Pride Montego. But did they use timber in the stringers?

Does anyone know if the Pride Montego has timber in the stringers or floor?

PS - before anyone says "you will find out when you repair the transom" I am wondering if I should replace the transom from the outside if stingers are ok. Therefore no cutting the floor up.

Thanks for your Help.

[burleygu]

mate go buy 2x 200mm inspection hatches cut them in down the back under your transom well.

it will allow you to check a small portion of your stringers close to the transom which will determine if they have timber in them for starters and it will also allow you to open those inspection hatches after use to ensure the bottom of the hull dries out properly

[Noelm]

either way, repair the transom from the inside anyway, it is the best way to do it.

[Dave666]

Thanks for the replys guys.

Do you really think that replacing the transome from the inside (if floor and stringers are ok) is the right way to go? If I go from the inside I will need to cut & lift the back top and splashwell. Then cut through the floor. Its not the cutting that concerns me, it just seems like 3 times the fiberglassing to put it back together, rather than going in from the outside. Some picture to give a better ider of the molded floor shape with curves - difficult to refiberglass?

Thanks again.

PS - burleygu, given your recent transome experience and quality work, I might need to hire you as a consultant while I do the work myself (fiberglass experience to date = Nil, but keen to learn)

92683 92684

[myusernam]

cut the deck off in front of the splashwell, along the gunnel. cut the floor up a foot in front of the trasom. It wont be that much extra work if you deem the floor ok. BTW my money is on untreated ply stringers with stuff all glass on them.

[burleygu]

need to determine what actually needs replacing if your stringers are gone the floor will be coming up anyway. the only advantage to doing the transom from the inside is you will retain the original finish on the outside of the boat. For example my haines is going to have a nice new shiny bum on it cause ive opted to do it from the outside. This can detur people if you ever wanted to sell or in my opinion it shows that it has been repaired. If I was to do the transom on your boat from the outside I would gelcoat the whole transom in white so you would have orange sides and a white transom. But as mentioned by a few guys see whats buggered first. I pulled the floor up in my haines and everything was stuffed. Because of the poor fibreglassing job

[Noelm]

the reason to do it from the inside is varied, one being of course looks, you do not touch the outside, so it still looks original, but the big reason is... if you do it from the outside, you cannot lay the glass along the sides and floor sections, you are relying on (in a way) just glueing the new transom material to the old (and possibly weak) internal glass, whereas from the inside, you lay the glass along the bottom, stringers, sides and so on, it is a bit more work, but not as much as trying to get a good finish on the outside (in my opinion) either way works of course.

[Dave666]

This all started with the idea that I would repaint the total boat in 2pack. Thought I better check the structural side before painting, and thats how I found the rot. An experienced eye would have found it earlier. Up side is now I know how to properly check for rot.

Given that I will do all the prep for painting myself, I am starting to think I should remove the top half of the boat so that I can flip it over and work on the bottom of the hull, and paint, while upside down. It also means I dont need to cut & repair the gunnel.

So if I remove the top of the boat then I would definitely cut the floor across the back to (1) check stringers properly, and (2) replace the transom from the inside.

Does this approach sound right (removing the top of the boat)? Or is removing the top, and moreso replacing the top, a problem?

As you can see I am not sure on the overall approach, given that I want to paint the boat also.

Thanks again.

[Noelm]

removing the deck (top) and flipping it over will be tricky, the sides will be quite weak and wobbly without the deck attached.

[fandtm666]

i flipped mine over when i was doing all my restoration and as
mentioned it can be tricky but the thing the caught me out was
under estimating the weight factor when flipping.

[Dave666]

Thanks Noelm - Hmmmm, so if you dont flip her over, how do you do all the filling, sanding and painting underneath?? Dont forget she is a very heavy 19ft boat. Weight is an issue.

I know this is different to my original question, but before I just start cutting madly, I need to be clear on how I am going to deal with both transom and painting.

Nolem, your comments about transom strength when replacing from the inside makes a lot of sense. I agree and therefore I am 95% sure I will replace from the inside.

Now its a question on should I "cut" the rear gunnel and lift the splashwell, or should I take the total top off?

If I can find a simple solution to preping and painting the hull "without removing the top & flipping" then I wont. But how the hell do you do all the prep work and paint underneath while she is on the trailer??

[Rip it up]

Dave I do a few boats each year for refurbishing. Transom are always easier from the inside. Also when you look at a cross section of the transom it is always has thicker glass on the outside skin. Then timber then a thinner layer of glass inside.

Removing a deck will normally cause a wrapping of the hull somewhere and if a new set of stringers etc is install on a warped hull it will stay hooked.

Some methods of repairing a hull underneath are easier than others and depend or your repair location and tooling. I have flipped small 14fters. And used cradles on bigger ones.

Maybe a frame can be used like an engine stand bolted into the motor mounting holes on the transom to secure the boat off the floor at the back and then a chain block to the apex of a shed from the front anchor cleat.
Put safety blocks underneath in area you are not working on like the chines strakes etc. A mechanics creepy crawler is handy to get underneath. It's not fun sanding upside down but there is good respirators out there to use.

If possible a gelcoat finish with a few minor repairs is my preferred bottom finish. Wet and dry sanding and a compound polish comes up great if done properly. Then it can be sprayed from chines up.

Ask any questions you like and between the wealth of knowledge on AUSFISH we can help you out.

Remember that the main reason for transom rot is poorly sealed bolts and screws and those hideous aluminium transom caps not being sealed. If possible remove it altogether and fibreglass a solid cap over the new timber. Epoxy resin if you can stretch the budget

Good luck and work clean. Itchy dust CAN be avoided.

[Noelm]

OK, if you don't like/want to work upside down, then how about a completely different approach, flip the boat over with deck still attached, do all you upside down work, right to the spraying stage (or even spray the bottom) and then, back upright and start on the transom repair. I might add, getting the deck off is no picnic either, not impossible, but sometimes it can be a tedious jo, depending on how well it was done from new. OR.... remove the deck, fix the transom, refit the deck, then upside down for painting?

[ozynorts]

Never having done this before this may be completely wrong, but can you do all the glass work (transom, stringers etc) and then after it is solid flip it for the prep and paint work?

[Rip it up]

Yes repair first if the transom is really bad. Always easier to flip before the cosmetic approach is started on the top deck. Because sometimes a little persuasion with a piece of timber is needed to feet upside down. And easier to sand back bumps and scratches when you prep for top paint.

I think you have the right idea. Transom structural. Flip repair hull. Flip paint. But never get under your hull without a safety approach for supporting the hull weight.

[Dave666]

Thanks for the reply’s everyone.

Yes, you are right RipItUp, the knowledge here is amazing. I just hope I don’t become a serial poster / pest while I go through this project. Asking for and receiving quality advice without cost just dosnt sit right with me. Before the end of the project I would definitely like to “give back” to the Ausfish community in some way – more on that later.

Regarding the under hull work & paint, & following from RipItUp’s suggestions, how about a stand at the transom (using the bolt holes) to hold up the rear, while simply leaving the front on the first two rollers of the trailer (with extra support). I could work from underneath and paint up to the underside of the top chine & do about 75% forward from the transom. For the last 25% I could sit the bum down on some carpet & sandbags, which would send the front of the hull up in the air & finish it off?

I realise its not going to provide the best paint job, but its just the underside, no need to flip it over (I would need a crane) & it will still be 100 time better than now?

Any thoughts - sound reasonable?