Seized Steering Teleflex

[PROS]

Hi,

I have the old school Safe-T version1 teleflex steering in the boat currently.
It has always been a bit stiff, but recently got completely stuck.
I managed to open it by wobbling the engine and steering wheel at the same time, however got stuck again after 2 weeks not using the boat.
This time its completely stuck.

I removed the steering cable out of the helm. Helm seems to be working in good condition, without the cable steering wheel turns freely.
Engine turns freely as well with the steering tube disconnected.

With the help of couple of wice grips on the steering tube twisting and pulling, I managed to free it.
It seems the issue is the outer steering tube. The inner cable seems to be fine.
When I slide the outer tube, it leaves a rusty looking residue over the inner tube.
Tried to flush the tube by applying wd40 and moving the tube back/forward with cleaning each time. It seemed to work as tube now moves freely.
I applied a bit of yamaha marine grease to the inner tube at the end, not sure if this was a good idea.

I would prefer to just buy a new cable assembly and replace it however this model of Safe-T is discontinued, need a complete new set with the helm to replace it all.
All a bit costly considering current helm and inner cable seems to be working, but the issue is outer steering tube.

Question 1) Is there any way to remove the outer steering tube and change it?
The outer tube end has a hole where the bolt goes to trough to attach to engine.
I tried vice grip on outer tube and another wise grip over the hole to turn it, the inner cable turns but tube doesnt get separated.
I though this tube is stainless, how the hell it gets rusted inside...

Question 2) The cleaning and greasing that I have done sufficient?
Although i tried to clean as much as possible not sure if I used correct grease.

If I forget anything or your comments.

Many thanks for your help.

Max The Turk

[CruiserV8100]

Dont stuff around with steering in a boat, be safer to put a new system in it and know you have steering when you need it which is always. Put yourself in your car, would you risk the saftey of the steering in that to save a few dollars. Do the smart thing the first time otherwise it could cost your twice as much going the cheaper option if the quick fix dont work.

[ozscott]

Mate cleaning is a short term and time consuming thing. New NFB cable and helm if you want to spring for it. Thoroughly recommend that set up. Otherwise new cable only.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4B0eSHiIzM&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Cheers

Ps fill with auto trans fluid not oil and use the newer type gland nut that is felt lined and impregnate with oil.

[Fed]

PROS the rust is coming from the inside of the tilt tube which is part of the motor and not stainless.
Keep the grease up to it and you'll be fine.

[Jarrah Jack]

I soaked my old cable in inox and its been perfect since. You need to unattach the steering wheel end, make a cone that will sit over in and fill with inox. The inox will seep down through the tube and into the tilt tube and free everything up. There's a thread on it if you want do do an advanced search.

[Crunchy]

PROS the rust is coming from the inside of the tilt tube which is part of the motor and not stainless.
Keep the grease up to it and you'll be fine.

One of the worst bits of advice I ever got on Ausfish was the put grease in my tilt tube....

[Fed]

Grease didn't work for you eh Crunchy, that's unfortunate.

[LittleSkipper]

Hi,

I have the old school Safe-T version1 teleflex steering in the boat currently.
It has always been a bit stiff, but recently got completely stuck.
I managed to open it by wobbling the engine and steering wheel at the same time, however got stuck again after 2 weeks not using the boat.
This time its completely stuck.

I removed the steering cable out of the helm. Helm seems to be working in good condition, without the cable steering wheel turns freely.
Engine turns freely as well with the steering tube disconnected.

With the help of couple of wice grips on the steering tube twisting and pulling, I managed to free it.
It seems the issue is the outer steering tube. The inner cable seems to be fine.
When I slide the outer tube, it leaves a rusty looking residue over the inner tube.
Tried to flush the tube by applying wd40 and moving the tube back/forward with cleaning each time. It seemed to work as tube now moves freely.
I applied a bit of yamaha marine grease to the inner tube at the end, not sure if this was a good idea.

I would prefer to just buy a new cable assembly and replace it however this model of Safe-T is discontinued, need a complete new set with the helm to replace it all.
All a bit costly considering current helm and inner cable seems to be working, but the issue is outer steering tube.

Question 1) Is there any way to remove the outer steering tube and change it?
The outer tube end has a hole where the bolt goes to trough to attach to engine.
I tried vice grip on outer tube and another wise grip over the hole to turn it, the inner cable turns but tube doesnt get separated.
I though this tube is stainless, how the hell it gets rusted inside...

Question 2) The cleaning and greasing that I have done sufficient?
Although i tried to clean as much as possible not sure if I used correct grease.

If I forget anything or your comments.

Many thanks for your help.

Max The Turk

Max!!

What do you you want to do? Save your existing setup? Buy a new or secondhand cable steering kit? Or go Hydraulic?

The reason I ask is because I have just replaced my 3 year old mechanical steering setup with hydraulic and still have the existing Teleflex 'Safe T' steering mechanical setup I'm wanting to sell (Helm, Cable, Steering Arm to Outboard) PM me if interested?

[wayno60]

mate what lenght is the cable?? if max is not interested let me know.

cheers
wayne

[johncar]

Whatever you do make it safe. Take it from me, a broken steering cable at cruising speed or higher is no fun. Not my boat but the skipper thrown from the helm, lucky someone on board was able to get to the kill switch on the engine. I find it hard to have faith in them not being able to see what's going on inside given their design. Maybe a one off and faulty cable where it had rusted through and broke but certainly left a lasting impression.

[LittleSkipper]

mate what lenght is the cable?? if max is not interested let me know.

cheers
wayne

Not sure on the exact length, would have to whip out the tape measure to measure from end to end but the cable/steering was setup to suit a 4.8mt boat, if you can wait until next week I can measure the cable exactly for you if interested? Will post actual pics this arvo!

[zoot01]

100% with Joncar. First rusty and stiff then progress to broken cable. At speed this could do serious harm as the boat takes an instant hard turn and you have zero control. Luckly I was not going too fast at the time I had to motor home with my mate sitting on the transom steering the motor. I would agree with oiling at the first sign of stiffness but if the cable has been repeatedly seizing only one choice IMO. Dont want to get too picky, but if you have passangers on board think of them..... and your liability as you know about a safety issue onboard.

[Malcolm W]

Pros, bought this one off Ebay when my steering got stiff. Works well, just tie the bottle up higher than the steering wheel and work the wheel backwards an forwards. I used bottled Inox(any thin oil will do). I left mine on for a couple of days and went out every now and then to work the oil in. The oil is forced into the tilt and cable through the sealing nut.

Dont forget the hole (If your motor is a Yamaha) that is covered by the black clamp central to the tilt tube. These leak water and can be the source of the problem. Need to reseal this one as the motor gets older. I used a rubber plug and another clamp.

Japanese motors are 7/8 and American 1" nuts. The nut replaces the origial sealing nut while you are lubricating. Search cable lubricator on Ebay.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/$T2eC16ZHJF8E9nnC8G5iBQSScy0GTQ~~60_1.JPG

[Fed]

Cable length is the last 2 digits stamped on the cable sheath usually about 18" in from the helm end though I have seen them on the outboard end.

Anyone who drives a boat that pulls hard one way deserves to get chucked into the water, don't be fooled by NFB all it does is hide a poor setup.

[ozscott]

I use nfb for a good helm experience. No torque steer and set and stay. I agree though that motor and boat should be set up properly regardless.

Cheers

[johncar]

Cable length is the last 2 digits stamped on the cable sheath usually about 18" in from the helm end though I have seen them on the outboard end.

Anyone who drives a boat that pulls hard one way deserves to get chucked into the water, don't be fooled by NFB all it does is hide a poor setup.

Well it's actually not possible to adjust the engines prop torque counter acting trim tab for all speeds and engine trim so it's only an average setting that can be achieved which is ideally at the boats regular cruise speed.
Anything other than that will defeat the trim tab setting to some degree.
In the case where I was in a boat where the cable broke I wouldn't know whether it was optimum or not but it broke or at least revealed itself as a problem when the skipper went into a turn and the turn became full lock with no warning.
I don't think it would be wise to assume that just because all is set up as neutral as practical the engine wouldn't go to full lock once there is nothing to stop it. I am not about to try it anyway.
If I had one of those cables I would be pulling it out annually, checking it and servicing it for sure.

[PROS]

Many thanks for your help guys.
Ended up replacing the cable and helm with a new nfb unit since the old one kept seizing still after lubricating again.

Regards

Max The Turk

[LittleSkipper]

mate what lenght is the cable?? if max is not interested let me know.

cheers
wayne

Wayne!

I still have my existing cable steering setup if your still interested?