Trailer problems almost fixed :)

[Cheech]

Been out of the water for a very long time. Last time I used the boat the trailer failed on the way back from Hervey Bay. Closer inspection and it was clear there was too much rust to repair. So set about making a new frame.

Fortunately the wheel/axle/spring/guard assembly is all in good condition, so reusing that and the winch post.

Started out drawing it all on the floor, which made life really easy to square everything up. I used the old trailer as a base, but made a number of improvements and changes.



Wabble rollers a bit closer together and more towards the stern.
An extra cross support near the bow to support the bow and cover that the rollers are more towards the stern.
Extra bracing on the bend of the main railing.
Extra plate on the bends of the second from back cross member. This had given out first on a previous repair.
lugs. One on the drawbar and one the other side of the winch point to add in a safety chain to the winch point.
A walkway from the wunch post area down to about where the front of the guard goes. I decided to make this out of 20mm box section and utilise the main railing for the width and adding minimal extra weight.
Shorter solid brackets to hold the wobble assembly to the frame. As I was customising the frame to my boat I was able to shorten a number of the brackets, which strengthens it all, and has the boat in the same relative position.

Then off to my new best friends for galvanising. Industrial Galvanising at Pinkenbar (thanks for the info Tim). As the very back set of rollers is detached and hinges, it made the main frame just under 120kg, so they charged me less than they ordinarily would have. $470.00 for galvanising.

I spent about $550.00 in metal, $50.00 in welding wire, $100.00 in new ubolts, $150.00 for an elcheapo metal cutoff saw, so about $1400.00 all up.

Now just need to get the boat off the trailer and swap over the bits that are being reused.

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p351/craiggrendon/DSCF1742_zps8c2e93d1.jpg (http://s344.photobucket.com/user/craiggrendon/media/DSCF1742_zps8c2e93d1.jpg.html)

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p351/craiggrendon/DSCF1744_zpsbd543807.jpg (http://s344.photobucket.com/user/craiggrendon/media/DSCF1744_zpsbd543807.jpg.html)

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p351/craiggrendon/DSCF1745_zpse6688124.jpg (http://s344.photobucket.com/user/craiggrendon/media/DSCF1745_zpse6688124.jpg.html)

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p351/craiggrendon/DSCF1748_zps58870ded.jpg (http://s344.photobucket.com/user/craiggrendon/media/DSCF1748_zps58870ded.jpg.html)

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p351/craiggrendon/DSCF1751_zpsa26f9419.jpg (http://s344.photobucket.com/user/craiggrendon/media/DSCF1751_zpsa26f9419.jpg.html)

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p351/craiggrendon/DSCF1754_zps8c30b8ca.jpg (http://s344.photobucket.com/user/craiggrendon/media/DSCF1754_zps8c30b8ca.jpg.html)

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p351/craiggrendon/DSCF1755_zpsd50e4804.jpg (http://s344.photobucket.com/user/craiggrendon/media/DSCF1755_zpsd50e4804.jpg.html)

[johncar]

It look's like it came up well, bet the boat will feel a lot safer on the highway..

[Matt76]

Looks like a pro job, well done!

[fandtm666]

looks great , how long is the draw bar and what size

[burleygu]

Mate make sure you drown that trailer in penetrol before you put the boat back on or before you put it in the water cant speak highly enough of the stuff

[macmac]

Hi, just want to ask do u need the trailer sandblasted before take the trailer to get galvanized? Or it's ok to leave the primer on the metal surface and will be dissolved in galvanizing process.
Regards, Phil

[SunnyCoastMark]

Hi, just want to ask do u need the trailer sandblasted before take the trailer to get galvanized? Or it's ok to leave the primer on the metal surface and will be dissolved in galvanizing process.
Regards, Phil

Hey Phil,
There is no need to have it sandblasted. They acid dip all jobs prior to hot dipping. This gets rid of any contaminants - grease paint oil dirt etc.

Mark

[ozscott]

Nice mate - very nice. At a guess that drawbar is 75mmx75mmx4mm? My trailer is 15 years old and had the same size drawbar. I have just increased that to 5mm wall on the same design re-build, but then again mine is a dual axle and weighs a total close to 2 tonns with boat.

Whats the plan with the axles, springs etc?

Cheers

[Cheech]

looks great , how long is the draw bar and what size


Thanks guys, I am pretty happy with the result.

The drawbar is 1350 long. 75 * 75 * 3. Same as the old trailer. Just looks longer due to camera angle.

[Cheech]

Mate make sure you drown that trailer in penetrol before you put the boat back on or before you put it in the water cant speak highly enough of the stuff

Shall do Tim.

[Cheech]

Hi, just want to ask do u need the trailer sandblasted before take the trailer to get galvanized? Or it's ok to leave the primer on the metal surface and will be dissolved in galvanizing process.
Regards, Phil

As long as there is no rust, then just as it appears in the pictures. They acid bath it first which takes off the blue paint. Preference is to use the painted tubing so you don't have to worry about rust. I also sprayed the welds and any non painted surfaces with inox during the build so that rust did not start. The only thing you have to make sure of is to have your holes in the right places so no airpockets during the dunking.

[Cheech]

Nice mate - very nice. At a guess that drawbar is 75mmx75mmx4mm? My trailer is 15 years old and had the same size drawbar. I have just increased that to 5mm wall on the same design re-build, but then again mine is a dual axle and weighs a total close to 2 tonns with boat.

Whats the plan with the axles, springs etc?

Cheers

Same with this. It is a tandem and a bit under 2 tonne over the weigh bridge. I kept the same size and wall thickness as it seems to have been ok for the original trailer.

The whole wheel/axle/spring assembly from the old trailer is bolted to the main frame with 4 ubolts. There is a length of angle that the springs and guards all connect to, making it a complete unit. As it is in good condition I am reusing. I am planning to just unbolt, lift off the old trailer frame, and then slot the new one straight on.

[burleygu]

What did it end up costing for galvanizing mate?

[propdinger]

Burleygu it says he paid $470 for gal in the first post mate

[macmac]

As long as there is no rust, then just as it appears in the pictures. They acid bath it first which takes off the blue paint. Preference is to use the painted tubing so you don't have to worry about rust. I also sprayed the welds and any non painted surfaces with inox during the build so that rust did not start. The only thing you have to make sure of is to have your holes in the right places so no airpockets during the dunking.

Is that mean galvanizing can't remove rust? I asked bcoz I'm planning to build a tandem cage trailer using downgrade RHS/SHS which have a lot of rust inside them. It seems pain in a ass just to remove rust inside tubes. regards, Phil

[Feral]

Very professional looking job.

Whats your plan for doing the swap over? (moving Boat from one trailer to the other)

[lee8sec]

Is that mean galvanizing can't remove rust? I asked bcoz I'm planning to build a tandem cage trailer using downgrade RHS/SHS which have a lot of rust inside them. It seems pain in a ass just to remove rust inside tubes. regards, Phil

Would need to sandblast it clean. They dont do rusted metal.
Why give the trailer a head start in rusting from the inside by using low quality material? Leigh

[SunnyCoastMark]

Is that mean galvanizing can't remove rust? I asked bcoz I'm planning to build a tandem cage trailer using downgrade RHS/SHS which have a lot of rust inside them. It seems pain in a ass just to remove rust inside tubes. regards, Phil

Do it right Phil. - The downgrade material might save you a few bucks, but it can and will give you problems.
The galvanisers won't touch anything that is made with some of the rubbish that is out there, as the acid dip either doesn't strip the blue primer off properly or the seams in the RHS split during the galvanising process.

As for trying to remove rust inside the RHS - don't even bother.

Sounds like you should probably talk to your local galvanisers before proceeding any further......

Sorry Cheech - not trying to Hijack your thread;D. Looks like you have done a pretty good job - well done.

Mark

[macmac]

Do it right Phil. - The downgrade material might save you a few bucks, but it can and will give you problems.
The galvanisers won't touch anything that is made with some of the rubbish that is out there, as the acid dip either doesn't strip the blue primer off properly or the seams in the RHS split during the galvanising process.

As for trying to remove rust inside the RHS - don't even bother.

Sounds like you should probably talk to your local galvanisers before proceeding any further......

Sorry Cheech - not trying to Hijack your thread;D. Looks like you have done a pretty good job - well done.

Mark

Thanx for advice. I'll go for new steels.

[Cheech]

What did it end up costing for galvanizing mate?

$470.00. I would have saved compared to your trailer due to not having the guards, and winch post, as well as you had an extended draw bar. Pretty happy with the price.

[Cheech]

Is that mean galvanizing can't remove rust? I asked bcoz I'm planning to build a tandem cage trailer using downgrade RHS/SHS which have a lot of rust inside them. It seems pain in a ass just to remove rust inside tubes. regards, Phil

That's just what I have been told. If there is rust inside the tubing then it would be rejected. Best to give them a call and check. I found the service very good from this company so I expect they would be happy to answer any questions.

[Cheech]

Very professional looking job.

Whats your plan for doing the swap over? (moving Boat from one trailer to the other)

Good question. I have considered dropping the boat off on the grass at home. But that idea does not appeal to me as it is a 21 ft boat and pretty heavy. I can see it being a pain in the arse getting it off, and then back on with non fully adjusted rollers. Or, taking the boat to the ramp mid week, tying it up on the pontoon (north side and is a quiet ramp), leaving someone with the boat, and then taking the trailer home, do the swap, then back to the ramp. Or, taking both the boat and the new trailer to the ramp and do the swap at the ramp.

Either option 3 or 2, but I like 3. Being at the ramp I will be able to re-launch the boat as much as required to make adjustments to the rollers.

Whatever I do, I will have everything ready within a week, so need to make a decission pretty soon.

[Gon Fishun]

Slide it off onto old car or truck tyres.