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View Full Version : New trailer frame needed - buy or make



blairv70
04-04-2013, 11:26 PM
Hi all

My trailer frame is reaching the end of itslike and needs replacing.

Last year I fitted a new axle, wheels, springs etc so the are fine but the frame is in bad nick.

From the research I have been doing it seems quite hard and allot more expensive than I thought it would be.

I am now wondering if it is worth getting one fabricated? I really only need the frame and can fit all the roller etc myself.

Interested in peoples thoughts/tips and the number of a good metal fabricatior.

Specs are to carry a 4M Clark runabout single axle and I am looking at C Channel

Thanks

Blair

trymyluck
05-04-2013, 05:04 AM
Hi all

My trailer frame is reaching the end of itslike and needs replacing.

Last year I fitted a new axle, wheels, springs etc so the are fine but the frame is in bad nick.

From the research I have been doing it seems quite hard and allot more expensive than I thought it would be.

I am now wondering if it is worth getting one fabricated? I really only need the frame and can fit all the roller etc myself.

Interested in peoples thoughts/tips and the number of a good metal fabricatior.

Specs are to carry a 4M Clark runabout single axle and I am looking at C Channel

Thanks

Blair

Maybe have a look for a cheap second hand unit that has a good frame and swap your gear over. Other then that you need a mate that can weld. Not a lot of $ if you can do the work yourself.

Mark

burleygu
05-04-2013, 08:36 AM
making a frame will set you back a few hundred bucks biggest expense you will encounter is galvanizing unless you where going with c channel to avoid galvanizing as mark mentioned hit up your mates and see if any of them have experience welding

ozscott
05-04-2013, 08:52 AM
Duragalv section? Save on galving later. I am getting my trailer re-done at the moment and an 8m length of 75x75x5mm duragalv box is just under $200.

Cheers

charleville
05-04-2013, 09:13 AM
Duragalv section? Save on galving later. I am getting my trailer re-done at the moment and an 8m length of 75x75x5mm duragalv box is just under $200.




Is Duragalv up to repeated saltwater immersion? I have no expertise to make a judgement but I thought that it was only a pretty light layer of zinc offering adequate protection in buildings against rain water but maybe not in saltwater.


I would have thought that a couple of thick coats of galvanic type paint on uncoated steel might be just as effective.

ozscott
05-04-2013, 09:27 AM
Hi Charlie...mate I dont know for sure. From what I read the benefits of Duragalv is even coasting inside and outside and increased tensile strength from the process. Welding is easy and requires only coldgalv application over weld (I do it when very hot to suck it into the pores). It also means no twist that can be found with hot dip. I think hot dip might last longer, but I dont know and for my money I reckon I will get the same out of it just by washing it down properly - well at least 10 years and its much cheaper than galving later.

Cheers

blairv70
05-04-2013, 11:50 AM
Hi Charlie...mate I dont know for sure. From what I read the benefits of Duragalv is even coasting inside and outside and increased tensile strength from the process. Welding is easy and requires only coldgalv application over weld (I do it when very hot to suck it into the pores). It also means no twist that can be found with hot dip. I think hot dip might last longer, but I dont know and for my money I reckon I will get the same out of it just by washing it down properly - well at least 10 years and its much cheaper than galving later.

Cheers

What is the price difference between duragalv and normal c channel?

I was thinking of c channel and then cold galv and paint

burleygu
05-04-2013, 12:07 PM
you will find with any galvanized steel if you weld it and paint it the protection will be lost in those places especially if its box section cause not only does the weld destroy the outside galv it also takes it away from the inside also. which leads to having to oil fill trailers etc etc which can be messy and when left unmaintained pollutes the water such as pin hole leaks out of trailer etc. By all means you can make a trailer out of c section give it a really thick paint then re paint touch it up every 3 months to extend its life. If this was your preferred method I would heavily paint trailer frame in penetrol before painting it with topcoat.
From memory to have my trailer galvanized to suit a 4.75 Bluefin It was around $700.00

ozscott
05-04-2013, 12:53 PM
Yep with mine I am capping and oil filling to stop corrosion inside from condensation.

Cheers

Volvo
05-04-2013, 01:01 PM
Do a websearch "Sydney Trailers" n give them a ring regarding price for a newie, might be surprised which way is best to go..What i did ey:)..

tunaticer
05-04-2013, 02:46 PM
Duragal and Allgal are not suitable for long term use as a trailer that will get immersed. The gal coating is remarkably thin and it suffers from damages wherever it is welded, ground drilled or scratched.
Spend some time looking at what features you want in your trailer first.
Fabricating a Channel trailer frame is quite easy but costly to hot dip gal due to its size.
Smart people these days are following the alloy trailer designs and bolting the trailer together.
This means the galvanizing is much cheaper because it takes up much less room in the bath.....you pay a 3d rate for an assembled trailer frame, roughly 2.5 times the price.

Mr__Bean
05-04-2013, 09:30 PM
Just had my trailer frame re-galvanised and it was an easy exercise, but it is an I-Beam trailer so they had no hesitation to accept it with the very start of surface corrosion in places.

I would have no hesitation sending a frame off for hot dip galvanising now that I have done it myself.

I am now thinking of making a more suitable (custom) size double jetski trailer and will get that hot dipped if I go through with it.

Unless hot dip is out of reach geographically, I think you are cutting yourself short given all of the other effort.

Darren

ozscott
05-04-2013, 09:50 PM
How would 5mm box duragal go provided it was cold galved where welded and painted with enamel all over then.sealed and.filled.with oil? Surely provided it didn't get damaged it couldnt corrode when washed down after each trip??

Cheers

lee8sec
06-04-2013, 06:46 AM
Duragal and Allgal are not suitable for long term use as a trailer that will get immersed. The gal coating is remarkably thin and it suffers from damages wherever it is welded, ground drilled or scratched.
Spend some time looking at what features you want in your trailer first.
Fabricating a Channel trailer frame is quite easy but costly to hot dip gal due to its size.
Smart people these days are following the alloy trailer designs and bolting the trailer together.
This means the galvanizing is much cheaper because it takes up much less room in the bath.....you pay a 3d rate for an assembled trailer frame, roughly 2.5 times the price.

The last trailer i had Hot galvanized,18ft inboard ski boat trailer, the charge was done on weight of gal used. They weigh it before & after hot dip & thats what you pay for.
No surcharge for size.
You have to make sure you have vent holes in the correct spots to allow the gal to flow through the frame inside or you will waste your money.

The biggest problem is the logistics of getting the frame there & back, worse as size increases.
Will look at alloy for the next one i build.Leigh

ozscott
06-04-2013, 09:25 AM
Reading up on the product specs Duragal is inline hot dippee galv while the steel is formimg and Allgal is just blue zinc painted...im going to go ahead with the duragal and paint it...I might cold galv it first for added comfort. At the rear of my trailer I welded some flat bar on for lights. That was about 5 years or more ago. I stick welded with good quality WIA rods...slag started to peel off and I tapped the rest away and sprayed immediately with cold galv...it has never even looked like rusting in the weld...gets immersed each time. Rest of flat bar untreated and rusty.

Cheers

Cheers

charleville
06-04-2013, 09:39 AM
I tapped the rest away and sprayed immediately with cold galv...it has never even looked like rusting in the weld...gets immersed each time.


That is very interesting. I have never used cold galv in a immersed marine environment but I have always been impressed at its longevity on welded projects around the home. That is why I wonder if, to get a few extra years out of a faithful old trailer, simply welding on new members made out of blue steel and cold galvanising them might do the trick well enough. For box sections, that necessitates welding a nut on top over a hole and pouring oil into that and sealing with a bolt.

charleville
06-04-2013, 09:42 AM
Just had my trailer frame re-galvanised and it was an easy exercise........

I would have no hesitation sending a frame off for hot dip galvanising now that I have done it myself.



What preparation on the trailer is necessary for galvanising, please? eg sandblasting or anything like that?

johncar
06-04-2013, 10:16 AM
I think that there are plenty of ways to build and protect your trailer. A "C" channel for the home builder makes good sense particularly if you want to save on hot dip galv costs.
I think anyone building one just needs to consider the reduced strength of C compared to box and build in additional strength and bracing. The great thing about building in C section is the ability to easily paint it inside and out and a good industrial coating can be as good if not better than hot dip.
Thinking back to a Quintrex fishabout I owned was 20 or so years old still on it's original trailer I was told, a tilting C channel trailer painted in grey killrust not a sign of rust in the frame anywhere.
So if I had to build a new trailer frame on a budget I would build the frame and cross members out of suitable size for the boat and intended use Duragal C section with a compatible size duragal Box section drawbar. Definitely a bit trickier to build than using Box but should last a lot longer.
Cold Gal primer thoroughly all the cuts, joints and welds, then paint the whole thing with a quality paint, more coats the better.

Doing what ozscott is saying about using box, sealing and filling with oil has been done too heaps and should be fine but you just have to consider a few things like wiring and any future work, drilling, welding, little stress cracks and the oil may be inconvenient in those situations. I would probably prefer an open style construction where its easy to wash and maintain but plenty of ways to consider doing the job.

blairv70
06-04-2013, 09:17 PM
I think that there are plenty of ways to build and protect your trailer. A "C" channel for the home builder makes good sense particularly if you want to save on hot dip galv costs.
I think anyone building one just needs to consider the reduced strength of C compared to box and build in additional strength and bracing. The great thing about building in C section is the ability to easily paint it inside and out and a good industrial coating can be as good if not better than hot dip.
Thinking back to a Quintrex fishabout I owned was 20 or so years old still on it's original trailer I was told, a tilting C channel trailer painted in grey killrust not a sign of rust in the frame anywhere.
So if I had to build a new trailer frame on a budget I would build the frame and cross members out of suitable size for the boat and intended use Duragal C section with a compatible size duragal Box section drawbar. Definitely a bit trickier to build than using Box but should last a lot longer.
Cold Gal primer thoroughly all the cuts, joints and welds, then paint the whole thing with a quality paint, more coats the better.

Doing what ozscott is saying about using box, sealing and filling with oil has been done too heaps and should be fine but you just have to consider a few things like wiring and any future work, drilling, welding, little stress cracks and the oil may be inconvenient in those situations. I would probably prefer an open style construction where its easy to wash and maintain but plenty of ways to consider doing the job.

Johncar thanks for the sound advise - thanks everyone actually I have learned a thing or two.

Now who is a welder out there who wants to help me? Payment in whatever currency you like

johncar
07-04-2013, 08:48 AM
blairv70,
If you have the skills and gear to do your design, procure and accurately cut and prepare all your materials ready for tacking up and welding. It shouldn't cost much to get it welded up even if you have to go to a shop. Most of the cost is in the prep making sure all your joints are good with no or minimal gaps and finishing. Who ever is welding it may prefer that the edges to be welded have the gal sanded off too.

Someone on here may be happy to weld it up for you or as I said should only be a couple of hours or more for a shop to weld it up depending how complex you design it. I think the Welding Shed at Caboolture charges about $90 per hour.

blairv70
07-04-2013, 07:29 PM
blairv70,
If you have the skills and gear to do your design, procure and accurately cut and prepare all your materials ready for tacking up and welding. It shouldn't cost much to get it welded up even if you have to go to a shop. Most of the cost is in the prep making sure all your joints are good with no or minimal gaps and finishing. Who ever is welding it may prefer that the edges to be welded have the gal sanded off too.

Someone on here may be happy to weld it up for you or as I said should only be a couple of hours or more for a shop to weld it up depending how complex you design it. I think the Welding Shed at Caboolture charges about $90 per hour.

Johncar, unfortunately though I have most of the skills it is the time I lack :-(

But will give the welding shed a call and make some enquires

Thanks

Blair