alloy trailer

[mick.j]

hi all
looking at have an alloy trailer made but dont no where to start when it comes to engineering plus also have no glue on the components such as break type good brands or bad, axel type again which ones to stay away from, I beam, box ,or C channel which is best, the boat and trailer weight will be pushing 2t if that helps any.I am hoping not to just get sold by the local sales rep and buy something that is wrong so i wish to arm myself with some knowledge before i set out with cash in hand.
Any advice would be great thanks
tight line Mick

[ozynorts]

Hey Mick, what's your budget? Are you doing the work or are you paying someone to build it for you?
I got a quote for a Ali trailer from the states for a 2.5t boat and it was just over 5k. It may be cheaper to import if you feel inclined. I got my quote through Rob at Leisure Freight and Import, they import the magic tilt trailers. Portsea Marine import the Peterson trailers. Give them a call, you might be surprised at the price.
Cheers
Ozy

[johncar]

I think that are too many pitfalls to go out and get an ally trailer made without both you and your builder having a lot of experience with the material. It is not as forgiving as steel and can be big failure if done wrong.
My suggestion is to go with one of the experienced trailer builders such as Ozy suggested.
Some local builders such as Origin Boats would build a nice custom trailer or even some of the bigger builders like Dunbier's glider series should also be OK.
Without knowing your budget it is hard to suggest axles, brakes etc but at the end of the day it is best to try and buy a fully galvanised suspension with stainless steel discs an calipers, shoes etc if you go over the 2 Tonne, but if under then I would just use galv disc hubs and mechanical calipers with SS backing plate brake shoes.
If you can realistically keep it under 2 tonne you will save perhaps $3000 or more on your braking system so it can be worth it but in saying that, it is not worth taking the risk if you do weigh over and have an unfortunate incident down the track.

[Heath]

Go with an I-beam setup. Brakes use hydraulic Kodiaks. Hydraulic setup use Hydrastar with a Tekonsha controller. Suspension/axel go for a Torsion Axel. Go for a bunk trailer instead of rollers.

[braders83]

I've got a 3 yr old stacer 5m boat. It has a stacer alloy trailer with it. Biggest piece of crap ever made(the trailer). I would recommend you check the m out if you haven't already done so. Shake the boat on it and watch the trailer wobble all over the place ( no matter how well tied down). That will be a lesson on how not to do it!

[mick.j]

thanks for some info guys, ozy i did get a quote from portsea for a peterson to carry grady white and they quoted 11k so i think you got a very good deal at 5k.Heath the brands you have thrown up i have heard around the traps before so i think i will look into those a little more. i was looking at importing one from usa to save on price but i was hoping to have one done and hear for under 10k at least.
If you think of anything else please post.
Mick.

[Mister]

Go with "C" section, all welded, 2t is nothing to worry about, don't get conned with USA bolt up jobs, very limited with oz trailer manufacturers who know their stuff re alloy

[ozynorts]

thanks for some info guys, ozy i did get a quote from portsea for a peterson to carry grady white and they quoted 11k so i think you got a very good deal at 5k.Heath the brands you have thrown up i have heard around the traps before so i think i will look into those a little more. i was looking at importing one from usa to save on price but i was hoping to have one done and hear for under 10k at least.
If you think of anything else please post.
Mick.
Mick a grady white would need a bigger trailer than you are looking at now if I have read your first post correctly so it would be cheaper this time. Can't hurt to try again IMO.
Ozy

[wrxhoon]

Mick ,
Even if you have the baby GW (20 footer) she will be well above the 2000 kg fueled .
I have the 228G Seafarer and she is close to 3000 kg.
You can order an ally trailer from USA most manufactures would have a templet for your GW , all you have to do is give them the model.
You can get a 5000lb trailer for as little as $3000 and as much as $6-7 k depending on what you want.( they measure load there so she will carry 5000 lb load) , that should be fine for your boat .
This is what I would get , Ally I beam 5.5" with ally bunks , an extra crossmember, 3500 lb torsion axles , make sure they have S/S sleeves where the seals run, 14" or 15" gal or alloy wheels and radial light truck tyres ( not trailer bias tyres) 5 stud and 4.5" pcd ( Ford so you can replace wheels easy if you need to. Make sure you have the forward guide bunks as well, I don't use carpet its to sticky, use teflon bunk slides and she will slide off like rollers. All fasteners should be S/S including U bolts and any other bolts , some places will supply Aussie 50mm coupling and Aussie LED lights . None that I know use duralac when they bolt them together, if you don't want galvanic reaction you ahve to remove them all and use duralac I also use nylon washers under the S/S washers . You only want rubber flexi brake lines and Kodiak full S/S brakes or Dee Max all S/S . Hydrastar or Dexter actuator are both fine 1600 PSI.
You can buy all that in USA for about $6500 + shipping + GST all under $9 k if you are not in any great hurry.

[ozynorts]

Hey Mick, what boat is the trailer for? It helps to know so that we can give you accurate help.
Cheers
Ozy

[Noelm]

my neighbour has made quite a few custom alloy trailers (for alloy boats only) and he uses big box section, fully welded, no rollers at all, just a custom V setup to suit the boat, his own trailer is around 6 years old now, and is still like new, all the 'add ons" like brakes and so on are personal, there is some good stuff on the market (and some cheap crap too) so I would reckon almost any engineering shop could build you one.

[Jarrah Jack]

My mate makes these out of stainless. Some are bolted and some are welded. Although the axles with his own suspension system are rated 3 tonne the trailers are 2 tonne.

http://www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/trailer-boats/stainless-steel-boat-trailers/93439

[Noelm]

that is a similar setup to what my neighbour builds, in so much as the V is cutom fitted to each boat, no rollers at all, but I guess those ones would need to be adjustable to suit different buyers hulls.

[mick.j]

thanks wrx very informative i have a little to work with now, ps your grady has a beam width of 2.5 or under ? this is the boat i am looking at importing next year sometime ,that is why i am starting to do some home work on the trailer,i will more than likely have to dump the one thats it come on and have one made for aus specs.Also what do you mean by 4.5' pcd? and is your trailer all bolted up with a gal draw bar?
Mick ,
Even if you have the baby GW (20 footer) she will be well above the 2000 kg fueled .
I have the 228G Seafarer and she is close to 3000 kg.
You can order an ally trailer from USA most manufactures would have a templet for your GW , all you have to do is give them the model.
You can get a 5000lb trailer for as little as $3000 and as much as $6-7 k depending on what you want.( they measure load there so she will carry 5000 lb load) , that should be fine for your boat .
This is what I would get , Ally I beam 5.5" with ally bunks , an extra crossmember, 3500 lb torsion axles , make sure they have S/S sleeves where the seals run, 14" or 15" gal or alloy wheels and radial light truck tyres ( not trailer bias tyres) 5 stud and 4.5" pcd ( Ford so you can replace wheels easy if you need to. Make sure you have the forward guide bunks as well, I don't use carpet its to sticky, use teflon bunk slides and she will slide off like rollers. All fasteners should be S/S including U bolts and any other bolts , some places will supply Aussie 50mm coupling and Aussie LED lights . None that I know use duralac when they bolt them together, if you don't want galvanic reaction you ahve to remove them all and use duralac I also use nylon washers under the S/S washers . You only want rubber flexi brake lines and Kodiak full S/S brakes or Dee Max all S/S . Hydrastar or Dexter actuator are both fine 1600 PSI.
You can buy all that in USA for about $6500 + shipping + GST all under $9 k if you are not in any great hurry.

[mick.j]

those trailer look great pitty they cann't do 3t
My mate makes these out of stainless. Some are bolted and some are welded. Although the axles with his own suspension system are rated 3 tonne the trailers are 2 tonne.

http://www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/trailer-boats/stainless-steel-boat-trailers/93439

[Noelm]

PCD ( Pitch Circle Diameter) refers to the stud pattern for the wheels.

[Jarrah Jack]

that is a similar setup to what my neighbour builds, in so much as the V is cutom fitted to each boat, no rollers at all, but I guess those ones would need to be adjustable to suit different buyers hulls.

They're a very simple design Noel. He explained that because the main frame is under tension where they are bent to meet the draw bar they are stronger than untensioned.

[mick.j]

ok thanks for that pcd pitch circle diameter.

[Mister]

Appears many are stipulating alloy "I" beam, what is the justification and reasoning behind this recommendation?

[Noelm]

not too sure, for a steel trailer I would use I beam, so no rust can build up inside the tube, but for alloy??? I think you can get I beam in high tensile strength??

[Mister]

Do you think then that we have inherited to much Americanism with "I" beam trailer construction, from a thinking that has not yet progressed on from clamped and bolted designs which "I" beams are very well suited to, the same country that generally still views alloy boats as a fresh water boat only?

[wrxhoon]

thanks wrx very informative i have a little to work with now, ps your grady has a beam width of 2.5 or under ? this is the boat i am looking at importing next year sometime ,that is why i am starting to do some home work on the trailer,i will more than likely have to dump the one thats it come on and have one made for aus specs.Also what do you mean by 4.5' pcd? and is your trailer all bolted up with a gal draw bar?

My 228 G is under 2.5 mtrs wide ( one of the reasons I bought this boat) and she has a very well built and very heavy duty bracket for the engine ( pod),, the bracket is welded alloy painted and when you first look at it you think its F/G like the rest of the boat, thats how good the finish is. The boat is a bit over 22' long but has more deck space than a 23 footer and as much as some 25 footers. This is the boat 228 not 226 : http://gradywhite.com/226/

The only down with GW's is the price, other than that very well made boats, hand laid F/G, if you look in US boat sales you will find small GW's fof sale up to 30 years old, some on their 3rd 4th or even 5th engine. All post mid 90's GW's are fitted with Yamahas from factoty not dealer fitted and none of them have cable steerings, all have seastar hydraulic and most have the tilt helm.

All USA built ally trailers are bolted together using I beams ( high tensile ally) in various sizes depending on the ATM, they all use Gal draw bar but its only about 300mm longer than the I beam just enough to bolt the coupling on to. Don't worry you will never break the drawbar . some use gal xmembers ( cheaper) stay away from them.

Someone else has explained the PCD to you correct , for anything up to 3300 kg ATM use Ford hubs 5 stud, 4.5" (113.4MM) PCD , the Yanks call it 5 on 4.5.

I bought my boat in GA from a guy that lived on the lake front and had an older trailer just to pull her out of the water and keer her on , I had a new trailer made to AU specs.
To the surprise of most on this forum , I'm not a great fan of Yammies of 4 bangers for that matter so I replaced the 250 Yam with a new 250 opti, the boat is rated 300 hp. The other thing I go up to 80 km offshore so I like to have a new engine . On a day's fishing I do about 200-250 km and I never turn the engine off, even bottom bashing at Browns (400-500 mtrs deep) I keep the engine going to hold on to the spot.

[mick.j]

thanks wrxhoon you have been helpful, do you happen to know what gauge I beam you used. When the trailer company said we will use X type gauge I beam you were happy with that or did they give an option to up size?it would be good to know what gauge would be minimum and what would be plenty for a tow weight of 3t because the travel i intend to do can involve some nasty roads. It reads like your in sydney if so i would love to have a look at your rig one day let me know when you are fishing and i will meet you at the boat ramp and have a gander.
Your boat being from Georgia did the whole precess run smoothly and who did you use to bring it in to oz?
cheers Mick.
My 228 G is under 2.5 mtrs wide ( one of the reasons I bought this boat) and she has a very well built and very heavy duty bracket for the engine ( pod),, the bracket is welded alloy painted and when you first look at it you think its F/G like the rest of the boat, thats how good the finish is. The boat is a bit over 22' long but has more deck space than a 23 footer and as much as some 25 footers. This is the boat 228 not 226 : http://gradywhite.com/226/

The only down with GW's is the price, other than that very well made boats, hand laid F/G, if you look in US boat sales you will find small GW's fof sale up to 30 years old, some on their 3rd 4th or even 5th engine. All post mid 90's GW's are fitted with Yamahas from factoty not dealer fitted and none of them have cable steerings, all have seastar hydraulic and most have the tilt helm.

All USA built ally trailers are bolted together using I beams ( high tensile ally) in various sizes depending on the ATM, they all use Gal draw bar but its only about 300mm longer than the I beam just enough to bolt the coupling on to. Don't worry you will never break the drawbar . some use gal xmembers ( cheaper) stay away from them.

Someone else has explained the PCD to you correct , for anything up to 3300 kg ATM use Ford hubs 5 stud, 4.5" (113.4MM) PCD , the Yanks call it 5 on 4.5.

I bought my boat in GA from a guy that lived on the lake front and had an older trailer just to pull her out of the water and keer her on , I had a new trailer made to AU specs.
To the surprise of most on this forum , I'm not a great fan of Yammies of 4 bangers for that matter so I replaced the 250 Yam with a new 250 opti, the boat is rated 300 hp. The other thing I go up to 80 km offshore so I like to have a new engine . On a day's fishing I do about 200-250 km and I never turn the engine off, even bottom bashing at Browns (400-500 mtrs deep) I keep the engine going to hold on to the spot.

[wrxhoon]

I send you email with details.
They have a standard that they stick to but you can upsize if you wish, the gauge will depend on the I beam size and size will depend on ATM.

[Originboats]

Buy Aussie welded not imported bolted!!

Cheers from an aussie boat builder

OB






87213
87212

[Noelm]

so then, why do you use C section material? seems to be much harder to work with than nice neat rectangle tube? not trying to denegrate you in any way, jusy interested, that's all. Good looking trailer by the way.

[Originboats]

They are pressed channel from structural plate not extrusion.
Looks, strength, easy to look after same material as the bottom of the boat.
Not hard the way we do it.
So far so good after 3 years of building them the way we do.
Just get over the imported stuff a bit :)

Cheers OB

[Luke G]

Origin can you clear your pm's? Cheers!

Great looking trailer btw!

[mick.j]

hi wrxhoon did you happen to email me details about the trailer you purchased?

[Captain Seaweed]

Mick are you importing a boat? I got my trailer built over there for Australian design requirements worked out under 10k for a tri axle cat trailer 70mm towball coupling. I got a Magic Tilt trailer. FTI

Cheers
Marty

[fisho64]

I got a quote for a Ali trailer from the states for a 2.5t boat and it was just over 5k. It may be cheaper to import if you feel inclined. I got my quote through Rob at Leisure Freight and Import, they import the magic tilt trailers. Portsea Marine import the Peterson trailers. Give them a call, you might be surprised at the price.
Cheers
Ozy

then add 2K freight, about $1K port charges etc. Costs much the same to bring in 2 or 3 as one though as long as all in the same name.
Watch some of the yank trailer companies-known for boosting the price to Aus after paying your 50%.

[wrxhoon]

I emailed you a couple weeks ago.

[ozynorts]

then add 2K freight, about $1K port charges etc. Costs much the same to bring in 2 or 3 as one though as long as all in the same name.
Watch some of the yank trailer companies-known for boosting the price to Aus after paying your 50%.
Nope that was the landed price in aust. It was through an aust importer.

[cormorant]

What happens in australia if the imported trailer fails and kills someone?

I have seen some very well made ones and some that I think will have fatigue problems in the future with Aussie roads and the loads they are certified for considering unlike steel they will not be replaced every 5-10 years or so?


I understood that the importer took all the risk on the product and can't pass it off to a overseas manufacturer? If you import privately yourself are you taking on that risk even if you sell it? So when you import it do you have a Aussie engineer to run the specs and certify it meets standards and is suitable for purpose? The process of registration is pretty much a joke as we all know and most mechanics have no structural training so will not pick up issues.

I know that in NSW the RTA ( or whatever they are called now) has a list of all engineered trailers in Australia that are production models and outside of they they are registered as Homemade.

I know that recently I have heard of insurers asking for the manufacturers details of the trailer and avoiding non australian prduction models in regards to box trailers.
Just wondering what happens when a insurer decides they are not happy and leaves a boat trailer owner in the lerch? Guess the same question goes if Origin boats goes belly up and 5 years don the track their trailer fails and is it the engineer who signed off or is there a trailing insurance policy?