BEP vsr

[captain red beard]

Hey guys I have one of those BEP dual charging clusters looking after my dual batteries and it has stopped working. Just wanting to know if I can just buy the vsr unit or do I have to buy the whole lot.
I still dont understand how the vsr unit can switch over the batteries the way they are wired up to the isolation switch. Any help would be much appreciated.
Cheers Red Beard
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Relay directs all power into first battery until it reaches 13.7V then closes to charge two batteries together. When engine is stopped, relay opens separating batteries. 100 amp/12 volt. Size 69 x 69 x 50mm.http://www.biasboating.com.au/v/vspfiles/templates/biasboating/images/Bullet_MoreInfo.gif (http://www.biasboating.com.au/product_p/2330.htm)


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http://www.bepmarine.com/media/product/pro4d2e2e961425a.pdf

[Floating Rib]

My thoughts would be you can just replace the VSR, you should be able to determine the switch is working ok with a multimeter across the contacts or not having one of those just a few pieces of wire to connect a nav light/12v light of any sort across the contacts to check the switch works.

[captain red beard]

I have put a multimeter on it with the engine running it doesn't switch over at all. I have the switch on the battery one posistion and it just keeps using the main battery, wont charge the second battery.
I let the engine run for a while and it got to 14.2 volts. The manual I downloaded said that when the main batterty is being charged and reaches 13.7 volts the light will come on the vsr unit and it will charge both batteries.
This system with the isolation swith seems to work different to what a car would normally have with a solenoid that opens and closes?

I think I just need a new one but still a bit confused on how it works??

[Chimo]

My 180 amp relay that is fitted in conjunction with my Auto Battery Coupler died and it was all that had to be replaced so if similar principles apply only the relay or other stuffed bit would need to be replaced. The ABC is locally made (Gold Coast) so maybe that makes it easier for the maker to sort it out.

Cheers
Chimo

[truth stretcher]

Just change out the VSR only . it with have 2 studs on the back sense battery positve ( this is your start or main battery) and a secondary battery stud ( this is you auxillary power battery) .
Just unscrew the old VSR and swap in new one .

heres the wiring daisgram from BEP

http://www.bepmarine.com/media/product/pro4c27c846d96d1.pdf

When the voltage on stud 1 is higher than 13.7 it should join the contacts and charge the 2nd battery as you know but it wont open circuit until the voltage drops below 12.8 . This wont happen straight away when the engine stops because the main battery will hold a higher than 12.8 voltage for a little while.
By loading up the system by running bilge , lights etc will drop this voltage faster and it should open circuit faster.
If you have a multi meter check these voltage with it.

[truth stretcher]

Hey captain is the isolation switch you have ( the manual one ) a straight single battery isolator ? its not the one that allows you to switch between off , battery one , then battery both batteries (2) is it?

[Fed]

I have put a multimeter on it with the engine running it doesn't switch over at all. I have the switch on the battery one posistion and it just keeps using the main battery, wont charge the second battery.
I let the engine run for a while and it got to 14.2 volts. The manual I downloaded said that when the main batterty is being charged and reaches 13.7 volts the light will come on the vsr unit and it will charge both batteries.
Did you test it right at the VSR terminals?

[captain red beard]

Thanks for the replies. I had a moment there and couldn't think how it worked but my brain just started working again and I realise how it works now. Thanks Truth Stretcher.
It does have the two battery switch and now it all makes sense. The vsr unit is buggered, it just wont close. I have tried it both ways. No good. It does make a clicking noise for a second and the light will flash when i disconnect the batteries but still wont switch over when its all hooked up properly.
Looks like i need to go shopping for a new vsr unit today.

[Carry]

G'day Captain red beard,

I have the twin vsr setup on mine and they failed second trip out after being brand new. I replaced them both under warranty and as soon as I fired the engines up the light came on within 5 seconds (13.7 volts).

Cheers

Carry

[cormorant]

BEP have been good with warranty so may be worth a call and send it to them. Worst case is you end up with a spare if you buy one in teh meantime.

They should last a very long time and are sealed so nothing a user can do should make them fail early.

[GBC]

I have one in my car. If the thin earth wire isn't 'excellently' earthed the vsr will fail to operate. Might be worth another look before shelling out?

[banksmister]

I had one in last car that developed cracks in the front of it and died after 5 years

Only the back of them is resin filled so i found out after i pulled it apart

I replaced it with an Enerdrive one [ same shape, screwholes, size]
http://www.enerdrive.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=28&Itemid=230 (http://www.enerdrive.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=28&Itemid=230)

The main reason i went with it was it cuts in at 13.3

Some types of alternators when hot on high temp days will struggle to get to 13.7 if you turned the car off

[captain red beard]

Thanks guys. I replaced mine yesterday and all is working well again. I replaced the earth wire before I got the new one but still couldnt get it to work. When I pulled the old one out I found a small crack in the bottom of it with a bit of a rust stain coming from it. Must have got some moisture inside it and killed it.
I also found that the way my batteries were wired up everything ran off the first battery, which included all the accessories as well as the engine. The second battery would just get charged while the engine was running but nothing actually drawed off it. only time it would get used was if you had to join the batteries to start. Not sure why it was like that or if that is the norm?
I have now put all the accesssories on the second battery so that the engine has its own battery for starting and when it is off all the accessories keep running off the second one. Only problem now is I cant isolate the second battery.
Just wondering how everyone else has theirs wired up?
I only found the problem because one battery was completely dead.

[honda900]

captain Red beard,

there has been a bunch of threads in the electronics section and a lot of them have wiring diagrams, both dual battery and house battery configurations. probly worth a search.

Regards
Honda.

[Fed]

I'd put it the accessories back to the common on the switch.