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View Full Version : New Yami 60HP 4S EFI - FLushing



Splash
21-07-2012, 02:38 PM
SHoudl I use muffs on leg or plug the hose straight into the housing if I want to flush this motor?

SPlash

Dan5
21-07-2012, 02:46 PM
When i had mine i would do both..........if not there where be salt left at the top flush port.........

Dan

Splash
21-07-2012, 03:18 PM
thanks dan

Giffo65
21-07-2012, 06:47 PM
Splash

I use the hose connector port on the side of the motor,so easy.How is the 60 going on the 4.1,very fast I expect !

Splash
22-07-2012, 10:17 AM
Thanks Giffo.

Do you ever use muffs?

Not used the 60HP yet.

Waiting ot have a ducer placed on my transom before I head out..

SPlash

JB
22-07-2012, 02:13 PM
If you dont warm up the motor does the thermostat heat up enough to get clean of salt? Im still using the flush muffs myself.

lucee81
22-07-2012, 02:15 PM
You should run it till it heats up I reckon also use both flush points

WalrusLike
22-07-2012, 02:48 PM
I can't seem to get my Yammie115 2str to heat the water.... I idle it, or fast idle it, for 15 mins or longer with muffs and it still hasn't got warm out of the tell tale. Should I maybe engage gear? That make a difference?

Giffo65
22-07-2012, 07:50 PM
I don't use muffs on the 4 stroke,I use the external hose connector,but I flush as soon as I get home from the ramp so motor is still warm and thermostat may still open.I used to put the old 50 2 stroke in a tub of water as the old neighbour was a whinger about any noise over the volume of a fart.Now I do not have have any neighbours within cooee.

Dan5
22-07-2012, 08:37 PM
Empty your PM box Splasher

hellfish
23-07-2012, 12:20 AM
I hav found with mine that if i use the cheap muffs that have only have the water inlet come from one side that the engine will sound the over heat alarm. i bought a pair that the hose plugs on the front and has a Y section that supplys water to both sides of the muffs and all is good. Anyone else found this? I always run the motor on the muffs for about 15mins and only ever use the hose atachment if i come home late at night so as not to upset the neibours and run on the muffs asap in the morning as with out the muff flush the intake side of the cooling circuit dose not get flushed and the thermostat is shut as soon as cold tap water touches it giving a very poor flush.

cormorant
23-07-2012, 12:48 AM
15 minutes flush??? Hell you'll wear it out.

Whats the manual or the dealer say about the top flush port. Some motors don't like being run with only water from the top flush port as the waterpump runs dry?;D:o

WalrusLike
23-07-2012, 07:16 AM
It doesn't take much to confuse me.....

I read that it can take 15 mins of flushing to get salt dissolved.... and that is with warm water. In my case I have never got the water warm yet. My drive home is a long one so motor is always cold.

I think I will try the bag idea.... The exhaust should warm the water in the bag maybe?

I would also be inclined to trickle in new water the whole time it runs.

thelump
23-07-2012, 07:49 AM
I have the F115 and use both. My dealer told me that the top hose connector is fine the only thing better would be to use warm water????. So I now use the Muffs. I reckon it needs to get warm to get rid of salt. My telltale is cold too Walrus but that doesnt mean your engine is not warm just that your cooling system is good.

Tangles
23-07-2012, 07:50 AM
The Yamaha manual is a bit each way on the water hose but as i understand it there is no perfect option but best option is:

1: Best option Run it in a water bin/bag
2: Next best option is muffs
3: If you must with the water hose attachment with engine not running! ( maybe if travelling or dont want to wake the neighbours and do it properly next day)

spelchek
23-07-2012, 07:55 AM
For what its worth I only use the hose attachment on my 40 efi yammi. Never had a problem. I'm not sure why some people think yammaha would make a flush system that doesn't work. They probably tested it at the design stage once or twice I'd have thought.

Dan5
23-07-2012, 08:11 AM
The top flush port is for on water use,,,,,,,example on a houseboat etc where the engine can't be practically flushed,

The top flush port is to be used with the engine OFF.......thus meaning a cold engine and a closed thermostat.

I always use muff's......on the Yamaha 60hp in particular if you used muffs and ran the engine for say 5 mins and it got up to running temp then you shut it down and went on to remove the side flush port the water trapped in there would still be salt........then i would use the flush port for 30secs or so to rid it with the theremostat hopefully open.

Using the top flush port alone does NOT flush the lower end unit/waterpump and gallerys etc........I have taken this up with Yamaha mechanics as i was doing all the maintenece on 4x 60hp Yamahas.......they all agreed that muffs and port flushing were the only way to be sure.

A flush tank is another good way but you will still need to flush the small amount of saltwater trapped at the top flush point........A flush tank/bucket in my situation was not practical as the engines i was servicing were mounted on the roof of a mothership,

spelchek
23-07-2012, 09:05 AM
The top flush port is for on water use,,,,,,,example on a houseboat etc where the engine can't be practically flushed,

Please provide documentation for this 'fact', Dan.

Dan5
23-07-2012, 09:08 AM
Please provide documentation for this 'fact', Dan.
Ring and ask your Yamaha dealer "mate'....

spelchek
23-07-2012, 11:11 AM
Funnily enough, I have checked with my mechanic. He's adamant that the flush port is the way to go. And after 350hrs my engine (according to him) is in great nick. No need to get all shirty fella - if you can't provide any yami documentation, tech bulletins or other proof of your claims that the top flush port is designed for "on water use" then all you're doing is reporting heresay. You should at least be honest enough to admit it.

preso
23-07-2012, 12:03 PM
Damn, I just use the hose port with the motor running, how much damage have I done in the last 7 years.

Scott Ashe
23-07-2012, 12:24 PM
Hi, I have the 30 Yam, 4 stroke 09 model, and I was given a flushing bag, (with the hose fitting on it), that I use to flush my motor for between 5-10 minutes, and that works quite well. The only problem is you have to make sure you don't put a hole in the bag.(done once), but we patched it up well, and it's been working a treat for the past two years.
Cheers

Dan5
23-07-2012, 01:56 PM
Funnily enough, I have checked with my mechanic. He's adamant that the flush port is the way to go. And after 350hrs my engine (according to him) is in great nick. No need to get all shirty fella - if you can't provide any yami documentation, tech bulletins or other proof of your claims that the top flush port is designed for "on water use" then all you're doing is reporting heresay. You should at least be honest enough to admit it.


Whoo up there buddy........i'm not getting "all shirty'......Having been talking to Yamaha here about self servcing as in our case was the motors may have been hundreds of miles from a Yamaha dealer and wanting to look after the engines and roll them over every 2 years the dealer and mechanics here told us use to muffs and port flush.

Sorry no documentation all word of mouth and considering the dealer was trading the engines back in every 24 months we just did what they told us.

If you don't agree......don't do it......simple.


Ps..... This what i am lead to believe.....seeing as they were Yamaha mechanic's i saw no need to really question them..........on the other hand they could be wrong and my information would also be wrong......Maybe a PM to Spaniard King will determine......he will possibly read this thread and reply.
Dan

TheRealAndy
23-07-2012, 03:19 PM
Using the top flush port alone does NOT flush the lower end unit/waterpump and gallerys etc........I have taken this up with Yamaha mechanics as i was doing all the maintenece on 4x 60hp Yamahas.......they all agreed that muffs and port flushing were the only way to be sure.

It does on my 50hp yammie.

Anyway, six of one, half dozen of another. Every person I speak to says something different. Ask one mechanic he says muffs, as the next he says port.

stevej
23-07-2012, 03:41 PM
Please provide documentation for this 'fact', Dan.

I was told the same by reps from yamaha Australia at the rosehill boat show this year

Muffs for a full flush with engine on, hose port if you cannot run the engine for some reason

cormorant
23-07-2012, 04:01 PM
Can someone please explain to me how water gets to the waterpump when flushing via the top port?

So we have a waterpump with rubber impeler spinning away and pumping air ( if it is in good condition) all the way up the tube to the base of the block. It sucks in air from the usual spot. So the waterpump is dry !!!!????

Now the flush port and the thermostat. Which side of the thermostat does it enter? Just checking if by any chance the thermostats are bybass ones so the hose pressure actually opens them?

I don't have a yammi to see how they are set up but please get the yammi mechanics to explain how when using the flush port with the moor running the impeller isn't spinning dry?

I think some mechanics need to be careful with their advice and go the extra step and say that if port flushing then they should not have motor running depending on size and brand?

Muddy Toes
23-07-2012, 04:26 PM
I'm not sure if they're the same kind of set up but when I bought my new Yamaha F300 the dealer I bought it off and my local service agent both told me there was no need to use flush muffs and that using the hose attachment on the top was sufficient.They both told me that's what that attachment is designed for.....the need not to use muffs.For all the doubters the two places in question were Broardwater Boating Center and Wynnum Marine.
Oh......yeah as a side note they told me to never run the motor using the hose attachment.

spelchek
23-07-2012, 04:31 PM
Whoo up there buddy........i'm not getting "all shirty'......Having been talking to Yamaha here about self servcing as in our case was the motors may have been hundreds of miles from a Yamaha dealer and wanting to look after the engines and roll them over every 2 years the dealer and mechanics here told us use to muffs and port flush.

Sorry no documentation all word of mouth and considering the dealer was trading the engines back in every 24 months we just did what they told us.

If you don't agree......don't do it......simple.


Ps..... This what i am lead to believe.....seeing as they were Yamaha mechanic's i saw no need to really question them..........on the other hand they could be wrong and my information would also be wrong......Maybe a PM to Spaniard King will determine......he will possibly read this thread and reply.
Dan

Apologies then Dan - i took your reply ('mate') to be a bit snarky, quite wrongly as it turns out. My belief (that flushing port use is fine) is also based on information from my yammi dealer and two of his mechanics (who I chatted to seperately on 3 different occasions about it). I would have thought that [with no mention in the manual of using muffs] that if it was considered better (by yamaha) to flush with muffs then a service bulletin would have been issued to dealers/mechanics.

Seahorse
23-07-2012, 04:35 PM
I was told that if use port then the water enters from behind thermostat and opens it. I have 50 hpn4 st yammie. I have no ideas. I again only confirmed this with the boys at stones corner marine.

thylacene
23-07-2012, 04:39 PM
For what it is worth, I got the sameadvice for our Suzuki. Muffs rinse the whole system including waterpump, flush ports will rinse the block only. Do not run engine with flush port to avoid impeller damage. The suzuki has two flush ports, I understand that one is for the block,the other for the leg. http://media.suzuki.com/marine/uploads/df175-150.pdf

I like to give ours about ten minutes with the muffs on, and ensure that hot water is coming out of it. Have had a look inside when the service was done, and even with a religious flushing regime there is still an amount of salt buildup. Have been using salt-x since the last service to see if it makes a difference. One thing that I have noticed is that the sacrifical anodes cop a hiding, and it is reasonable to say that services should not be left beyond the 100 hour mark.

I can only assume that yamaha are of equivalent quality. Your best reference is the owners manual with regard to flushing instructions. If you dont have one, look for one online.

Spaniard_King
23-07-2012, 05:12 PM
For those with 50 and 60 yamies they dont have popet style thermostats and will not be opened by water pressure alone.

99% of engine have the flushing port feeding the water pump side of the block, hence this backfeeds the water pump. If you run the engine when using the flushing port there is no flow of water through the water pump and you risk overheating and damaging the impellor and melting the housing.

Even tho the flush port may clean most of the engine the only way to ensure the best possible flushing is to use the muffs and run the engine or if available back it into a freshwater dam :)

TheRealAndy
23-07-2012, 05:41 PM
FWIW, the merc 50 we have on the yacht club rescue boat, the manual says to run the engine on idle when using the flushing port.

spelchek
23-07-2012, 06:54 PM
I don't have a yammi to see how they are set up but please get the yammi mechanics to explain how when using the flush port with the moor running the impeller isn't spinning dry?

I think some mechanics need to be careful with their advice and go the extra step and say that if port flushing then they should not have motor running depending on size and brand?

For what it's worth, I was specifically told by the dealer on delivery of the new boat NOT to use the flush port with the engine running.

spelchek
23-07-2012, 06:57 PM
For those with 50 and 60 yamies they dont have popet style thermostats and will not be opened by water pressure alone.



What about a 40 yamie, SK?

Spaniard_King
23-07-2012, 07:50 PM
Not %100 certain on certain late model but I doubt they would have changed the cooling path too much, near all of the yam 4 strokes have standard thermostats and they all would have a popet releif valve which does not allow water flow to the regions beyond the thermostat

WalrusLike
23-07-2012, 07:53 PM
SK I appreciate any words of wisdom you can supply.... On my Yammie 115 2stroke....

Should I wait till the telltale warms up? Or is it ok as mentioned above?

Spaniard_King
23-07-2012, 08:46 PM
Walrus,

When you have an opertunity take the engine cowling off and run the engine on the muffs, at the top of each cylinder head towards the rear of the engine will be a cover plate with 4 bolts in it (each side) this is where your thermostats are housed... after 5 mins of iodling these should be warming up if they are not then you most likely have thermostats which are jammed open not allowing the engine to warm up... if this is the case get the thermostats serviced

Your tell tail is being fed water from the supply side of the cylinder block and should never be hot

WalrusLike
23-07-2012, 08:58 PM
Ah... Great stuff SK, many thanks... Will do so as soon as I can.

I appreciate the advice you just gave me, and all the other good advice I have read of yours on here. Many thanks.

Splash
24-07-2012, 06:35 AM
Damn, I just use the hose port with the motor running, how much damage have I done in the last 7 years.

what condition was your impellor after a service?

splash

Spaniard_King
24-07-2012, 06:47 AM
Spalsh the Impellor is not a true indication of the actual condition of the pump. The housing needs to be inspected as when the housing has been melted it usually allows air to be drawn in to the cooling system. This is mopst evident at higher rpm where the actual water flow drops off and will start to cause over heat situations. The tel tale may still look good at idle.

Splash
24-07-2012, 07:16 AM
interesting - thanks sk.

is the housing plastic?

splash

TheRealAndy
24-07-2012, 10:37 AM
Straight from the horses mouth. I enquired about my 50hp Yammie.



Thank you for contacting Yamaha Motor Australia with your question.

We can advise that both systems of flushing are recommended in your
owners manual. The TOP flush allows you to clean the internal cooling
passageways of debris and salt residue quietly in built up areas.
While the traditional method of using ear muffs is as effective at doing the
same task but allowing you to run your motor (noisy), which some owners
prefer to do.

We suggest that should you operate in high silted areas or an accidental
grounding on a sand bar occurs. Then "Top" flush first, the higher pressure
from most taps help to remove any build up, debris etc.
Then follow on with a 5 minute flush with the ear muffs to ensure system is
cleaned and no blockages have been caused.

Just to quickly summarise, both procedures or combination thereof are
recommended when flushing your motor.
It is really a matter of the operators preference and location that determines
which they will use.

Once again, thank you for contacting us, we hope this brief explanation
is of assistance.

Dan5
24-07-2012, 10:57 AM
Good work Andy..........Thats in a "round about" way what we were told by our local dealer..........use both methods to flush allthough their answer still really is not definitive on wether or not top flushing alone reaches the lower leg unit.

I have seen plenty of silt/sand trapped up in that top flush port on theses engines aswell.........enough to block the flushing hose at times.

Dan


FWIW my Suzuki manual recommends using the muffs to flush the water passages........but this is Suzuki and not Yamaha ofcourse.

spelchek
24-07-2012, 11:54 AM
Thanks Andy and SK.

SK - is there a specific area I should be asking my dealer to check (to see if I have any/potential problems with using the flush port alone) on it's next service? Every service it has come back with good reports wrt it's general condition. I've never needed an impeller changed (but I do have them changed regardless at every service).

Splash
24-07-2012, 06:36 PM
Straight from the horses mouth. I enquired about my 50hp Yammie.

No mention made of having the motor running or not whilst using the TOP flush method??

splash

Splash
24-07-2012, 07:53 PM
can someone confirm if the tiller 60HP Yami has an audiable alarm? If so, where is it located?

I have checked underneath the tiller arm and do not see any plastic piece...

SPlash

Spin
24-07-2012, 08:11 PM
They say take the "keys" out of the ignition and
remove the safety lanyard"
when you use the top flushing port

Or you can "run" the engine on earmuffs?
Mines a 2007 90 hp 2 stroke Yamaha?
that's in the operators manual.

Linedropper
24-07-2012, 09:33 PM
Mines a 2003 Yamaha 60 4S. Always flushed it with muffs only. No probs here and a dozen or more flushes have been skipped between trips.

I'm more worried about the trim and tilt pump motor on the engine that is covered in rust and looks like it will bust sometime soon.

cormorant
24-07-2012, 10:14 PM
Mines a 2003 Yamaha 60 4S. Always flushed it with muffs only. No probs here and a dozen or more flushes have been skipped between trips.

I'm more worried about the trim and tilt pump motor on the engine that is covered in rust and looks like it will bust sometime soon.

Check the price of that motor and it is well worth the weekend cleaning it up and epoxy painting it to protect it. The price will scare the hell out of you

WalrusLike
27-07-2012, 05:50 PM
I bought a collapsible flush bag from BuggersCantFish and unfortunately the thing is too small. I was considering getting the larger one but thought of the water usage so went mid sized.... 115 liters but it is too small for the 115 HP Yammie 2 stroke.

Has anyone ever used the BCF bigger bag on 115 sized motors or upwards?

WalrusLike
29-04-2013, 11:11 AM
Walrus,

When you have an opertunity take the engine cowling off and run the engine on the muffs, at the top of each cylinder head towards the rear of the engine will be a cover plate with 4 bolts in it (each side) this is where your thermostats are housed... after 5 mins of iodling these should be warming up if they are not then you most likely have thermostats which are jammed open not allowing the engine to warm up... if this is the case get the thermostats serviced

Your tell tail is being fed water from the supply side of the cylinder block and should never be hot

Sorry to drag up old thread but just wanted to check.... SK is this the thermostat housing?

They heat up pretty quick for mine when on the muffs.

91914


(Using Tapatalk on iPhone so can't easily 'thank' or 'like')

Malcolm W
29-04-2013, 02:08 PM
Yes , thats one of them. The yamaha thermostats have the temperature marked on them. My 115 2 stroke (using a heat gun ) takes approx 60 seconds to reach full temperature (50°). The thermostat only lets more through. Behind the thermostat in the head is a hole that lets a constant stream of water through, with the thermostat just trimming the extra water needed.

The pink wire you see just to your right is the overheat alarm sensor. You can unplug that one to test it. I put mine in water and heated it up, the alarm goes off at 85°.

WalrusLike
29-04-2013, 05:38 PM
Thanks. That's good to know.


(Using Tapatalk on iPhone so can't easily 'thank' or 'like')