25 Hp Johnson Bottom Leg

[Danstu]

Hi All

Hadnt run my little creek boat for ages so took it out and it was running like a pig. So decided I would try and do a bit of mantenance on it myself. (Big mistake but taking it to a mechanic would cost more than it is worth) Anyway cut a long story short I cant get the bottom leg off. I also pulled a screw out next to the sump plug screw that seemed to have stopped the prop free spinning in neutral and now it wont go in reverse. I think I have totally stuffed it. Was thinking if I can get the leg off I will be able to fix it (or make it worse). I took the bolts out that hold the leg on and it drops down half an inch but wont come all the way off. Please help I'm a mechanical retard! Motor is a 25 Hp Johnson Tiller steer 2 cylinder 2000 model.

[finga]

Did you undo the gear change linkage?

Where are you?

Cheers Alfred

[bf90]

If you have not un done the gear change linkage it is located below the carbe

[Danstu]

Hi Finga and Sunchaser

Does undoing the gear change linkage help drop the bottom leg off. Am determined to fix my own bugger up rather than taking it to a mechanic.

Cheers

[Fed]

Buy a genuine omc manual.

[finga]

Hi Finga and Sunchaser

Does undoing the gear change linkage help drop the bottom leg off. Am determined to fix my own bugger up rather than taking it to a mechanic.

Cheers

It won't come off until you do.
Where are you?

Here's a diagram. Your aiming at undoing items 15 and 2.
To keep the adjustment right undo the lock nut (item 15) 2 full turns before undoing item 2 so you know where the adjustment is meant to be when it's all put back together.
Tape item 15 into position after undoing it if need be.
http://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/57426.cfm

[tunaticer]

The linkage on the 25's (if identical to my 25 Rude) is behind the water intake grille on the leg. Unscrew that link and it will drop off.
The biggest hiccup you now have is getting the axle screw back through the linkage for your gear selector. Get that tongue hanging out to the left and your right toes crossed and it will pop back in.........hopefully.
Be careful with the water pump bolts on the johnos and rudes, they have a tendency to corrode in worse than most other brands i have had.

Good luck getting your linkage axle back in the right spot and through the aligned linkage pieces, I have fixed it twice before on mates motors and its usually frustration central.

[Spaniard_King]

Jack is on the money unless it is the 4 stroke model.

take the inlet screens off the gearcase (1 screw either side)
then using 2 x 1/2 "spanners seperate the union joint, it is best to undo the top whilst holding the bottom as moving the bottom may change the shift adjustment.

once seperated push the top nut up a little to uncover the plastic tappered key(note the correct angle of the key), using a sharpish tool in the split of the key remove the key beeing very carefull not to loose it.

after removing all the visable bolts on the gearcase you can now remove the gearcase from the leg.The top nut will fall out on removing the gearbox.

Installation is the exact reverse but you should install the top nut onto the shift shaft before pushing the gearbox all the way home... carefull to alighn the water tube and the shift shaft as you install the gearcase....

Best advice is do not force anything..... as if force is required you have something wrong.

even experienced people have trouble with these boxes

http://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/57328.cfm
Item 49 and 66 are the 2 nuts Items 73 are the split/tappered keepers

[Danstu]

Hi Guys

Thanks for the help, it was invaluable. (Specially spaniard king) Got the leg off and back on. Lucky the wife was out as she would of learnt some new swear words! It was frustrating the first time but would be easier to do it again. How much gear oil should go back in. The oil that came out looked like diesel oil and there didn't seem to much. Once again thanks for all the help.

Cheers

[cormorant]

Use the propper gear oil. Evinrude dealer will have a 500ml bottle and it will come with a pump and fitting that screws into the bottom drain hole. Pump it till it comes out the top hole with the motor leg vertical. Put in top gearbox drain screw. Disconnect pump and fitting and then you put in the bottom gearbox drain plug. If the plugs have small plastic washers grab a couple $0.75 each approx and check the surface they seal on is clean and smooth. This method ensures the correct gear oil level and no airlocks in there as you are filling from the bottom. The drain plugs will be magnetic so wipe off teh oil on them and confirm there are few if any filings on them. They don't take much oil as they are full of cogs.


If your oil was Ok it will not have been whitish or airated- emulsified - ie water in it it means your seals are Ok. If it is ever witish and gluggy it has water in it and you will need seals looked at.

That motor is worth looking after . They do a heap of hours so don't be scared to spend the money to make sure it is tuned correctly and has fresh thermostats , clean fuel pump screen,anode and waterpump impellers in it. Take the prop off, clean the old grease from it, check there is no fishing line around the shaft and replace prop with fresh marine grease. Grease the tiller points and the tilt tube , steering with a grease gun and dab of grease on linkages. Fresh plugs won't hurt either.

Have you seen the price of a new one - the above maintainance is cheap. Do a compression check and you will simply see if the motor is worn or not.

Run good oil from now on , flush it with fresh water , fresh non ethanol fuel and at it's service next service get them to decarb it ( or do it yourself with engine tuner) and it will last regardless of how it looks. As good as a new one.

Utube will have clips of the above. Be careful to make sure bolts are replaced with some evinrude marine grease and done up firmly not overtightened to silly amounts.