Rusty Rotors

[Scalem]

Should I concede defeat? I was told on my last service that the front brake pads on the dual axle dunbier were in need of replacing, not because of worn pad material, but the backing of the pads had all but rusted away. Not bad for 3 years hey? Is this the normal life expectancy of a set of brake pads on a trailer? But the guys had sold their last set of pads in the workshop, otherwise I would have had them fit them while the boat was there, so I bought a set myself and decided it can't be too hard...... Until I realized while dismantling the disk rotors are rusted through and delaminating so there is no point in fitting new pads just yet.

No big deal, braked hubs are easy to find a relacement for and fitting won't be too difficult, but I am surprised that a 3 year old trailer is already in need of new rotors. EVERY time the boat comes back it gets a good hose down, crawling underneath with the Karcher high pressure water blaster, and its not as if I am going to spray the rotors with Inox after every trip. What does everyone else do?

Scalem

[scuttlebutt]

Umm, actually I do spray my rotors with Lanox after every trip. Doesn't seem to affect the braking and they're rust free after 12 months.

[wrxhoon]

I use stainless steel rotors and calipers.

[Fed]

Scalem I've found that my rotors only rusted when I hosed them down, if i left them alone they stayed shiny. I think if you could hose them down then take them for a drive they would stay good, or maybe hose them down at the ramp before driving home.
How about one of those 12V pressure cleaners (water cube?), they come with their own water tank and do it all at the ramp?
Wash at home and hit it with the leaf blower?
I'm over the whole trailer maint thing, if it dies I'll buy a new one just like my car floor mats.
I launch in brackish water so that probably helps a lot too.

[Chimo]

Scalem

Same thing with Tinka when I was drowning the trailer. Washed brakes at the ramp then drove home, mind you it wasn't very far so they didn't get very hot. Rust still and issue and brakes that work and are legal when you travelling through traffic / tourists / who ever so I stopped dunking and used the 912 winch with an extra pulley block / hook and double cable. No more dunking at all eith with boat in or out. Also no mere rust and barkes that work no matter when I use the trailer or how long it sits between uses. QED really just takes a bit longer to pull it out but minor cf to the cost and pain in the bum trying to beat rust from dunking. WRXhoons solution appeals too and would have been practical had it happened from the start. Not worth it now as the the trailer only does it thing once in a while.

Cheers
Chimo

[Scalem]

Scalem I've found that my rotors only rusted when I hosed them down, if i left them alone they stayed shiny. I think if you could hose them down then take them for a drive they would stay good, or maybe hose them down at the ramp before driving home.
How about one of those 12V pressure cleaners (water cube?), they come with their own water tank and do it all at the ramp?
Wash at home and hit it with the leaf blower?
I'm over the whole trailer maint thing, if it dies I'll buy a new one just like my car floor mats.
I launch in brackish water so that probably helps a lot too.

I like this idea, need to find one of these water cube things to hose down the layer springs as well as the rotors once the boat has been pulled out of the water, then leave it alone once home. I'll still wash the rest of the trailer and boat once I get home being sure not to wet the brakes again as they will have heated up and totally dried out by then. You've got me thinking, I'm sure that water would otherwise sit between the pads and the rotors when I wash her down at home.

Thanks Fed!

Scalem

[Fed]

Car cube mate, I knew it was something cube.
http://www.carcube.com.au/

[midcoast learner]

"Scalem I've found that my rotors only rusted when I hosed them down"

You have answered a problem i have.Only live 500 from ramp.Wash trailer down , including brakes , but still rust on brakes.

[peterbo3]

"and its not as if I am going to spray the rotors with Inox after every trip. What does everyone else do?"

There is the problem, as others have said. My electric over hydraulic brake assemblies are washed with a garden sprayer (water & car wash mixture) immediately after every launch & recovery, then hit with WD40. The Lanox gets sprayed on after I get home. Tlr is four years old & pads were replaced, discs machined at one year due to rust. No problems since I have started the rinse/WD40/Lanox routine.

[timddo]

I hardly wash my hubs and bearings and it's all rusted. Time to look for some replacement - just the braked ones need replacing and the brake pads are all but warned out

If anyone knows a good price for ford hubs with ford bearings ( disk brakes) let me know.

[Stuart]

Yep saltwater will kill everything. Care and maintenance is a major part of the solution, if you don’t do that every rip then you can’t complain really. Not being a smart arse mate. The longer you can prevent replacing the brakes by way of maintenance the more money in your pocket.

[bigjimg]

I give mine a complete drowniing every launch,flushed with a hose at home and then given a blast with compressed air from the air gun.After that i give them a dose of spray lube liberally and that is that.After four years I have replaced the pads once from being nearly worn out and the rotors are good as gold.I coat the back of the pads with lano grease and marine grease the caliper sleeves and push block.Pretty cheap maintenance i reckon.If yer rotors are rusting your either at Fraser for a couple of weeks or you need to up the anti.Jim

[wags on the water]

Replace the pads, if anything, for peace of mind.

[Scalem]

I give mine a complete drowniing every launch,flushed with a hose at home and then given a blast with compressed air from the air gun.After that i give them a dose of spray lube liberally and that is that.After four years I have replaced the pads once from being nearly worn out and the rotors are good as gold.I coat the back of the pads with lano grease and marine grease the caliper sleeves and push block.Pretty cheap maintenance i reckon.If yer rotors are rusting your either at Fraser for a couple of weeks or you need to up the anti.Jim

As originally stated, I have thought long and hard about spraying Inox or any other rust preventative "liberally" around brake parts and in this case, rotors, but I don't know the legal implications of doing that should I need the trailer brakes to perform at 100% of their design the 1st time I throw on the anchors on my way to my next fishing trip. I imagine that the heat will burn off any grease or WD40 which is on braking surfaces, but how long will that take? 1 km down the road? 5K? Do you consciously apply brakes to help dry the rotors and pads knowing that the last time you applied rust preventative measures, your trailer brakes may not perform as well as they should? I agree with greasing calipers and push block, but err on the side of caution where it comes to lube on braking surfaces.

Scalem

[johncar]

I understand your concerns re the lube on the brakes Scalem but hey I do as many others do and give it all a good spray between trips. The thing is that I give them a spray after use and a washdown and have totally dried, usually the next day or two. By the time I get to go out again any excess has gone from the surfaces and just the thinnest protective film is left, that's what this stuff does and only takes a few days to do this. Then as soon as I hit the road out of my driveway, I give the brakes a few good hits and by the time I get to the end of my street they are pretty much fully functioning and have wiped or burnt any residue off. I wouldn't think of it as lube as such but more of a protective film to preserve the brake parts from corrosion.
The thing is that on the safety and legality side my brakes always work and not out of service like well over half the trailers I see at the ramps with corroded up pads. discs, calipers and my guess is that legally in the case of any road accident I will be fully in the clear as far as negligence goes and fully covered by my insurance. Anyone with poorly maintained brakes just being involved in a crash your fault or not, well I wouldn't want to be in their shoes as it could be extremely expensive depending on the severity to loss of life, injury and property.
Imagine running over a child running out on to the road, it won't matter who was in the wrong, the vehicle, trailer and driver will be fully investigated and I don't think that your insurance can wipe you for maintaining your trailer brakes, but neglecting them will be a different matter and in fact if Transport dept were serious they would visit any boat ramp and put half the trailers off the road with brakes that obviously haven't worked for a long time.

[johncar]

I use stainless steel rotors and calipers.

Hi wrx, would love to have the SS gear, little less looking after no doubt and I would like to convert over if I ever have enough cash saved up. Are yours still running fairly trouble free?

[Scalem]

I hardly wash my hubs and bearings and it's all rusted. Time to look for some replacement - just the braked ones need replacing and the brake pads are all but warned out

If anyone knows a good price for ford hubs with ford bearings ( disk brakes) let me know.
Hey Tim, I bought 2 new braked hubs in Gal, cost of $61.50 each inc bearings and seals. These are HT with Ford stud, not exactly the same as yours but should be similar price Link below

http://www.activefabrications.com.au/



Hi wrx, would love to have the SS gear, little less looking after no doubt and I would like to convert over if I ever have enough cash saved up. Are yours still running fairly trouble free?
John, I consulted my boat servicing agent on this topic. This is how the conversation went.
So how do I minimise rusting rotors, spray them with Inox or WD40?
Reply : Brake pad material is absorbent and the use of ANY of these types of chemicals and lubricants are LIKELY to be absorbed into the brake pad material - not a good outcome.
So if the trailer is a drive on design, getting it dunked into salt water is a regular occurence, how else can I preserve the life of rotors and pads?
Reply: avoid submersing axles past the hubs and get yourself a low range winch and get the boat onto the trailer that way, instead of driving on requiring submersing deeper than the hubs or .... Take up a different hobby like skydiving if you are not happy with regular replacement of rotors and pads. Some galvanized hubs these days are better quality than the hubs I am replacing.
Stainless? They are a lot of coin, $500+ per hub as a ballpark figure I didn't go into much further.

Scalem

[bigjimg]

As originally stated, I have thought long and hard about spraying Inox or any other rust preventative "liberally" around brake parts and in this case, rotors, but I don't know the legal implications of doing that should I need the trailer brakes to perform at 100% of their design the 1st time I throw on the anchors on my way to my next fishing trip. I imagine that the heat will burn off any grease or WD40 which is on braking surfaces, but how long will that take? 1 km down the road? 5K? Do you consciously apply brakes to help dry the rotors and pads knowing that the last time you applied rust preventative measures, your trailer brakes may not perform as well as they should? I agree with greasing calipers and push block, but err on the side of caution where it comes to lube on braking surfaces.

Scalem
Weii you did ask what we all do,and this is it.Protecta Spray Lube dries and doesn't leave a greasy film of oil,in my opinion it is hand over fist better than WD or CRC or even Inox for that matter.It goes on under the cowl as well.My brakes perform the job they're designed to do,what i have done only improves their performance and prevents them from malfunctioning,it is what maintenance is all about.Do what you like to your trailer,if you want to replace your rotors every few years keep doing what your doing,that is a hell of alot more dangerous than what i am doing.
Don't take this the wrong way,it is not an attack,get those calipers apart and grease those sleeves and push blocks and if you can,get the pads with the stainless backing.Protecta Spray Lube you can get from Mortons Hardware in Singer St Wynnum.Couplemate Trailer Spares in Glenora St have all things trailer,shop online and see what they got.Jim

[Scalem]

All good Jim,

Your response is packed with a lot of experience, so thanks. I liked one suggestion that the trailer needs to be used more often so that the rotors and what is hopefully only superficial rust is rubbed away with the use. I need to come up with a better solution than what I have so far, this will include

** Getting the brakes wrinsed with fresh water at the ramp just prior to the trip home so normal heating of the braking surfaces will dry the pads out. If I can't do that I will take the trailer for a drive around the block after washing at home. After this, I will consider Protecta Spray Lube so long as it dries and I can apply to rotors accurately without soaking the pads in the process.

I will also look at launch and retrievals without dunking hubs past the height of the axle



Scalem

[wrxhoon]

John,
The current trailer has Kodiak S/S brakes, 23 mm vented rotors, 275 mm diameter, solid Kodiak S/S calipers, S/S mounting brackets that bolt on the axle flange, S/S mounting bolts and S/S sliding bolts, the hubs are hot dipped gal, I didn't bother with S/S hubs as they are not the problem normaly. This set up has been going on close to 5 years now many dunkings and many k's , enough to wear out truck tyres and pads once. I don't spray anything on them, I do rinse the trailer when I get home , never on the ramp. I don't have springs either, I have torsion axles, hot dipped gal.
The brakes always work, I can lock the trailer wheels anytime if i pull the trailer lever on the controller. Dexter 1600 psi actuator.

I have set up several trailers with these brakes, all still going strong, some people that don't want to spend the $ on a complete S/S set up I set them up with S/S calipers and silver cad rotors, if you wash the rotors when you get home you have to drive the trailer to get them hot, they will last longer this way. fresh water will rust them too, wash your cars wheels and don't drive the car for a few days and you will see.

I first used S/S brakes about 20 years ago ( much dearer then) but Kodiak didn't make them then, I used Tiedown S/S rotor and ally calipers with S/S sleeves and S/S pistons . Worked well but the rotors were very thin ( not vented) and were getting very hot on heavy trailers.

The rotors I'm usung are good for 1750kg per axle, for heavier loads they have 320mm rotors, but you need 15" wheels minimum. Besides not many trailers in AU over 3500 kg because we don't have the pick up trucks they have in USA.

I have a new boat on order with new trailer, should land here in June, the brakes on my current trailer will come off ( more than likely) because no one will want to pay me extra for them. I will sell them separate.

[Mr__Bean]

I have a freshwater ski boat trailer and a saltwater fishing boat trailer (both about 8 years old), both have the same disc brake set up.

The freshwater ski boat trailer is still on original discs, the saltwater fishing boat has had about 3 full sets of rotors over that period and would be close to needing a new set again by now.

Now for the important bit...... Even though we all rinse our brakes, I don't think that is enough to get the dried salt resdiue off. I reckon the earlier post about using detergent is probably the key to preservation without introducing a lubricant based preservative.

I have a garden sprayer that I keep truck wash mix in to rinse the boat off with when I get home but I have never truck washed the brakes, but will from here on.

If clean of salt they won't rust, otherwise my ski boat ones would too.

We just have to get all of the salt off I reckon.

Darren

[WalrusLike]

Darren's post got me thinking..,. I am now going to take a garden pump with truck wash in the back of the ute and spray the wheels in the trailer park immediately after launch/retrieve.

I will have to do it quickly so I don't hold up ramp users.

Also it occurs to me that the yanks throw salt on their roads in winter. Wonder what they do to avoid rust? Must look it up sometime.

[Chimo]

Darren / Mr Bean
I reckon your correct about getting rid of the salt. Yrs ago in a different life with another boat that was used in the sea but when brought home (several hundred kms from the sea) after each trip the boat and trailer were were sloshed up and down the boat ramp in the river to wash the boat and trailer and run and flush the motor. After 9 yrs of this treatment there was no rust on anything. Mind you the gal brake cable was painted with fish oil before it ever got wet and that may have helped it a bit too.

No river with fresh here so I just use the winch and keep the brakes and hubs out of the salt.

Cheers
Chimo

PS Walrus
Those with salted roads have old F trucks with big holes in the body and ditto for cars until they are forced to get new ones. In Canada the rego on old stuff is higher than on new ones as an incentive!

[timddo]

For the price of the rotors, i would aim at replacing them once every 3 years.
I'm going shopping on saturday to purchase new rotors and rollers.

[Getout]

In my opinion, brake systems supplied on trailers should be able to survive regular dunkings in saltwater. It will cost more. The current situation is ludicrous.

[bigjimg]

The main thing is to get them dry after an intensive flushing.I have the luxury of a compressor for keeping the tyre pressure spot on and i just blast the whole brake setup dry with the air gun.To be on top of everything they should be stripped down and regreased every 6-12 mths depending on use.This is what I do and doesn't take that long really.Scalem you would have the same trailer as I do,easy job for a Saturday morning.Jim

[Spaniard_King]

A big part of the rust process is the moisture/dew that sits on the boat/trailer in the colder months... wet/dry/wet/dry = rust

people who wash well and keep in a shed have the least issues.... me I just spend the time every 12 months and pull them apart.

[jag078]

I took my rotors into work and had the machining section take a skim off each side to remove the rust scale but a mate brought a set from trailers direct in lawnton/strathpine for about $40ea galvanised with bearings. Hardly worth the effort of doing what i did for that price.

[WalrusLike]

I sprayed the whole lot with inox but later found that it was running down on to the tyre.

It says it may affect natural rubber if used regularly so I am not too worried. Anyone got any reassuring words?

[johncar]

I sprayed the whole lot with inox but later found that it was running down on to the tyre.

It says it may affect natural rubber if used regularly so I am not too worried. Anyone got any reassuring words?

It probably won't hurt the tyre. I have used the stuff pretty liberally for years with no exploding tyres or anything but to be on the safe side you can use Lanox instead which I believe to be safer around natural rubber.

Although I have been a trailer dunker for many years, deeper the better to avoid that painful winding on, even my 680 Haines was wound up on the trailer at 1:1, kept the bakes nice and clean with a wash down and INOX. Never replaced a hub, pad or bearing but gave the seals a bit of care and attention while servicing. My current boat courtesy of the previous owner who set it up with a 9000lb Warn 4x4 winch does not need to be dunked any deeper than just barely covering the rear tyres and just up to the rims.
I was very skeptical that this could work but well it does although I go a little deeper than he for safety but not enough to wet the brake disc unless some maniac roars past. So yes this is working and I seem to get the boat in and out just as quickly as driving on/off. Trailer is still as new after two years so it may be an alternative to full submersion. Get some funny looks at the ramp though and been told "Ya can't launch her like that mate, not deep enough" I just say "she'll be right thanks, just watch this"
I still give it all a good wash down with fresh water and spray inox over it as with my other trailers.
I have not noticed any detriment to the brake pads with the use of spays around the discs but I have seen heaps cake up with rust and fall apart with no treatment so which is the best evil?? Although I know it may not seem like good practice to get any sort of muck on your brake pads, until I know otherwise I think I will keep doing what works for me and gives seemingly reliable enough brakes.

[Fed]

One thing I did notice about my rotors when they were new is they looked very rough & porous, without a doubt they were Chinese knockoffs made of old Holdens.

Maybe there's a case for searching out better quality cast iron ones, pay a bit more but not $500 each like SS.

[Chimo]

Why not just just tart up the rollers and fit a decent winch with wiring from the battery to an anderson plug on the tow bar. If you have bunks then the die is cast and you may as well go ss.

[Fed]

The ramp I use must be a lot flatter than the one you use Chimo.
For me to keep my brakes dry I'd be launching & retrieving on concrete.
Single axle doesn't help either.

[fisho8]

Been through this with my trailer I have spent about $1500 so far on servicing. Mind you I bought my boat S/H and the trailer had not had an issue in the 3 years prior to me purchasing it. I have been told by the dealer to flush the brakes with fresh water which I do at the ramp after I pull the trailer out of the water and I then take the long way home making sure I get a good amount of heat into them. Like a outboard trailer need to undergo a annual service. I am an Motor Assessor for XXXXX Insurance. As far as insurance goes if there is a fault with a trailer in which it has a brake system fitted...If it is found there is an issue by the repairer claim implications will occur as far as the trailer repair goes.If the trailer brakes fail and it results in an accident the trailer and any damage it does to the brakes will not be covered....However the car or object it hit's will be...bit like brakes failing on a vehicle we will not cover the cause but we will cover the result of the damage it has caused. As there is no sceduled servicing required on a braked trailer there is a loophole there as long as the vehicle is correctly rated to tow the boat and trailer you will not have a drama if you damage someone elses property but you will be up for the cost of any reapirs you need to do to the trailer and brake system.

[Stuart]

Thats a good point youhave made fisho8. While most look at brake axle and spring maintanence as a cost preventative measure, it should realy be veiwed more from a saftey aspect. I have lost count of the amount of disconeected brakes at the boat ramp over the years. That’s a good point you have made fisho8. While most look at brake axle and spring maintenance as a cost preventative measure, it should really be viewed more as a safety aspect. I have lost count of the amount of disconnected brakes at the boat ramp over the years from rust or seized calipers. Insurance companies will look for the smallest detail to avoid paying out. That also goes for the tow vehicles max allowable towing capacity. Most of my mates are towing boats well in access of the vehicles rated towing capacity and they know it. I asked them what would happen if you ran up the arse of someone? Im a good drive. Its not always your driving that causes accidents mate, it’s the other dickheads on the road.

[Chimo]

Fed

Standard Qld standard ramps ie Tidal work that is a boat ramp is designed in accordance with the minimum design criteria . Boat ramps for vehicular use
(For both private and other than private purposes) Minimum width: 3.6 metres Gradient: Between 1 in 8 and 1 in 10

Constructed for / by Gold Coast City Council in accord with Building and engineering standards for tidal works as per Operational policies that provide a framework for consistent application and interpretation of legislation and for the management of non-legislative matters by the Department of Environment and Resource Management. Operational policies are not intended to be applied inflexibly in all circumstances. Individual circumstances may require a modified application of policy. This policy provides the minimum building and engineering criteria for tidal works approved under the Sustainable Planning Act 2009.

Cheers
Chimo

[WalrusLike]

Off topic: I found that ramp angles varies and the shallow ones are harder to use. Can't drive on because cant sink trailer enough.

On topic:

Had some bad luck and some good luck. The bearing budy on the right hand side came off. And it got hot and smelly and scary bad looking. The good luck was I didnt know till I stopped to pay ramp fee at Ruudys. So while we are boating Gordon is fixing it. Hope it's ok and he can fix it.

I know it was at about half full of grease mark which is where the dealer said to keep it. Too full and you risk blowing it out the back.

I know nothing about replacing bearings etc although I am able to learn. I need to do my own and get intimate with them. I also need to carry spares and tools and grease it seems.

I will report on what Gordon says was the problem.

[Fed]

Thanks Chimo that's interesting.

I just did some checking on my rig & at 9:1 slope my axle is clearly underwater.

I launch with the bung plug at water level which is about 50cm above ground, any shallower & I fear my bow would bonk the concrete when it dropped off the trailer.

I retrieve with my rear roller at water level (drop down style) which is about 30cm above ground.

Maybe I could launch shallower but it's not the kind of thing to trial & error when there's a bonk possibility.

[finga]

I launch with the bung plug at water level which is about 50cm above ground, any shallower & I fear my bow would bonk the concrete when it dropped off the trailer..
Easy fixed.
Use the winch to restrict the speed of departure of the boat off the trailer. Simply wind it backwards. But caution must be exercised as the ratchet won't work. I have one of these braked winch and it's brilliant for getting the boat on and off safely
http://www.marinedirect.com.au/catalogue/c3193/c3252/p378670

Using the winch to get the boat off allows me to not even get the rims wet (let alone the brakes or axle) on the big boat.

Also handy if you use ramps that aren't used that often. It's saved me from breaking something because of a submerged branch I couldn't see.

[Chimo]

Fed and Finga

Re shallow launching. As well as using a winch to launch which in my case is difficult, as I use a 912 winch with doubled cable and pulley block to retrieve the boat; I use a climbing eight and line to hold and lower the Vagabond into the water in a controlled fashion. The handle on the 912 and a normal manual winch can be a wild animal if it slips out of ones hand and it has no manners and will gleefully break ones wrist or any other bodily part one places within reach.

Hence the eight is the boring method of choice for this GOM.:P

78903

Cheers
Chimo

PS
Finga $843 is a bit too rich even with a brake cf to the climbing eight and line.

[finga]

Finga $843 is a bit too rich even with a brake cf to the climbing eight and line.
Maaaaate. Do you really reckon I paid that much???
I didn't just one of them. For the the price I paid I got two of the suckers..
I just wished they had more then two because I would have brought them as well.
And the lighter one (lifting capacity of 500kg. I wonder what the rolling capacity is?) are a lot cheaper too. :)

[Fed]

I haven't got the temperament for a controlled launch I'm a splash & dash kind of guy.
Don't know if this link will work or not, maybe for some.

http://www.comcen.com.au/~fed/launch.avi

Come on Finga tell the truth, Mega rich QLDers with their white sandshoes $843 for a manual winch then grinding the poor old seller down to peanuts.
Good looking winch mate.

[timeout]

This is what I am going to try with my new trailer I recon,easy to make you're self


http://youtu.be/wTI9KnVgnRM

[WalrusLike]

Re this mornings bearing failure:

So it turns out the bearings have been thrashing around and everything was chewed up. I saw the worn and shredded bits.

Gordon at Rudy Maars sorted it out and replaced it with a new buddy and bearings while we were out boating. Bloody good service.

Apparently it's been that way all along... I had felt a slight warmness on that side from the very first trip home. I was too dumb to realise that bearings shouldn't get warm. It never got hot but it was always slightly warm.

The buddy was greased ok but the bearings must never have been on properly from the start. There was some hub wear from the fault, but not so bad it needed replacing.

Being all new I thought it would be fine... Lesson learned.

Gee we were lucky it worked out the way it did. The brake pads and rotor kept it all together till i got to the marina thank god.

[Jarrah Jack]

A good lesson Walrus, I've had a few over the years. One thing to check is what type of bearings he put in, hopefully not Chinese.

[WalrusLike]

I was wondering that.... But forgot to ask. Is there any way to tell from the outside after they are installed?

[WalrusLike]

[..double post... Sorry...]

[johncar]

OK, I know this isn't for everyone but for anyone interested in not submerging the trailer or as least as practical, this is how I do it these days. The previous owner set this up because he didn't want to destroy his trailer and I quite like the idea now. He used a portable battery but I have since mounted a permanent on on the drawbar or you could use the tow vehicles battery with some heavy duty cabling but I prefered to make the trailer stand alone and not vehicle specific.
This uses a 9000lb 4x4 recovery winch and being a tinny a little occasional bump on the ramp wont hurt it and you would need a self centering/leveling multi roller or skid setup for it to work properly.
At the depth shown at launch in the pics below the boat did not cotact the ramp at all but not far off so I do go a couple of inches deeper but the rear discs are still out of the water. A busy ramp with waves breaking on the ramp would be a different matter and requires a bit better wash down but I still keep a protective film of Inox over the hubs, springs brakes etc just in case.
She is over two years old now with perhaps a hundred or so launches and all is still looks like new. I am about to service the trailer shortly for it first service so I will report and take some pics of all the components.
The winch takes only a minute or so to launch (powerout) so fully controlled and a couple of minutes to retrieve and no sweating or risk orheart attacks around a manual winch, all very controlled and steady but still fuss free. If I am beside a "drive on guy" who is on his own I am faster launch and retrieve but a well organised team of two is faster with drive on but not by much.
Any way I have probably done it all ways over the years and there are merits for different methods for different situations and boats and no one solution for all. My next rig, if there is one, I may do it differently again. I would certainly prefer to submerge the trailer if not for the damage and pursuing upkeep.
Pics are of previous owner the day I water tested the boat so hope he doesn't mind.

http://s610.photobucket.com/albums/tt187/johncar/Fisher%20660/launching%20fisher/?albumview=slideshow

[Chimo]

I like it and do similar. Next to no trailer maintenance is nice.

Cheers
Chimo

[Scalem]

So maybe this thread has done its final lap, but I'll just tell you the upshot of my experience replacing the rotors myself. In a nutshell, the message is check, check and then check things over again.

Part ordered was ht bearings, Ford wheels. Start packing the bearings with grease when I noticed the rubber seal was larger than what was on the trailer.... Sales staff at the counter invoiced correctly, but pulled stock to be reverse to what I ordered. They gave me Ford Bearings, holden wheel. No problems exchanging, the guys were good about it. I needed a new return spring.... they didn't have the part, but I got it elsewhere. That's two trips now...

Get everything installed, final turn on the bottom caliper bolt and I get that sickening feeling something just cross threaded.... Yep, she is stuffed now, down to the auto shop to buy a tap and die set. Upsize to M12 bolt, all good. Take her for a run around the block, the bearing buddie has fallen off on the passenger side. I retraced my footsteps and find the BB in the gutter down the road. I thought that the BB didn't go in far enough..... Pulled the whole thing apart again and tap out the outer race..... there is the problem! The supplier installs both races installed into the hub, and the bore of the hub where the outer race goes is scored to buggary causing the race to be about 1mm out, which is why the bearing buddy would not install all the way in. Quick hone, clean her up again, repack and finally have a perfect pair of braked rotors. What a drama!

For you more trained mechanics, you're probably having a chuckle at my expense, but that's OK, go ahead.. does not matter! I enjoyed the experience and now know my place.... I'll just book it in to have done professionally next time::) But if I ever live the dream of taking my rig onto Frazer, I reckon this experience has served me well, I can pull apart and reassemble faster than a v8 supercar pit crew can!! And I have all the spare bits and pieces including a new tap and die set to go with it;)

Scalem

[Nicko_Cairns]

So main drama up here is that there's a lot of crocs, I see plenty of people standing in the water but personally I'm not going to do that, I always drive on and off. One one river there's a fairly big croc at around 3.5m less than 50m upstream. I've seen one bloke there standing up to his waist...wtf?

I liked that trailer sprinkler system, have seen a similar homemade job and think that I should do the same on my boat. A mate of mine uses saltoff to flush his motors, he got a bit to try on his reels first and raved about it, apparently he didn't realise just how much salt was stuck on his reels despite rinsing etc.

I'm thinking that new calipers etc are par for course every few years with me dunking a fair bit of the trailer, I'll start hitting them with saltoff then let them airdry before doing a quick blockie and hitting the brakes a few times. I might look into the s/s setup but that's fairly pricey.

Good thread thanks.