Redco Sportsman Trailers

[fisho8]

Hey guys I have a Redco Sportsman Dual Axl Braked trailer with the sensor brake system I have since replaced 1 brakeline on this trailer as the line had cracked and now the other side has gone. I have come from a car background and not a marine background as far as profession goes. In my experience a brakeline should last alot longer than 4 years most line can last a lifetime on a vehicle. This seems to me that it is some type of design fault or fault with materials. They now make these lines with a flexible material and not a had material so I am thinking should I get the dealer to hit the trailer manufacturer up for a new one free of charge because this does not seem right. Any thoughts as to weather any of you think this is fair as they must be made from a pretty weak material to only last that long fun part is now I have to drive to the dealer with no trailer brakes which should be fun>:(.

[wrxhoon]

Buy a new flexi line kit and replace the whole lot, if you can't buy localy at a reasonable price buy from USA .
You can't win with bundy tube , if you use steel it will rust, if you use copper ( not legal now) it will crack , if you use S/S its expensive.

I have used flexi brake lines on my trailers for years, they work well and will never rust.

I even used them with sensabrake.

[fisho8]

Thanks mate I have the flexible line on one side they did not do the other side becuase it was ok at the time. I wanted it done but the boat was there over christmas last time and the trailer dealer was closed. The Marine Centre only had 1 in stock I was lucky they had one line there becuase that got me back on the road.

[Almako]

fish08 do you have issues with the brake callipers seizing? I had to get all 4 done after about a year, but admittedly the trailer was in the back yard for a few months without use and the boat was on the dry dock. I have used the boat all the time since i got it fixed $980 later. Now there squeaking again and i'm told that it is likely i'll have to do it again. Not even 12 months later.

Anyone with Redco trailer with this issue please respond. It's got a CCraft on top.

[SUPERDAFF]

fish08 do you have issues with the brake callipers seizing? I had to get all 4 done after about a year, but admittedly the trailer was in the back yard for a few months without use and the boat was on the dry dock. I have used the boat all the time since i got it fixed $980 later. Now there squeaking again and i'm told that it is likely i'll have to do it again. Not even 12 months later.

Anyone with Redco trailer with this issue please respond. It's got a CCraft on top.

Almako
In my experience, short towing trips at low speeds (less than highway limits) will carve through brake systems like a hot knife through butter. Put simply, the pads inside the calipers simply don't get moved enough by the pistons and consequently rust out from the back. Unfortunately, you can't really hose the salt water off in there... access issues. The exposure to disc rotors is pretty obvious. So if you live just a few kilometres from the ramp, it's likely to be a tough and expensive scenario... and yes, I'm in that position. In a related vein, one really can't make comparisons between a car's brakes and a boat trailer (unless you're dunking your car in salt water on a regular basis).

[The-easyrider]

I think you would be hard pressed after 4 years to have the trailer manufacturer come to the party. Mind you I have the same trailer and it is 8 years old and the copper break lines are still going strong. I did think I was going to have to replace them this year when I did a full break service but all went well. If I was to replace them I would talk to Titan brakes down at Cleveland they have all the flex line hoses you would need.
Without wishing to hijack the thread the issue with the Sensor Brakes, regular servicing is the only to keep them or any boat trailer brakes at their optimum and it is not that hard. Every 4 months or so drop a wheel of and check the condition of the backing plate and I give the backing plate a spray with grease and make sure the piston is not to gummy looking. Then once a year, give the brakes a good service this is not to hard and because I am a tight ass I do it my self.

[johncar]

Can't really blame any one manufacturer, they pretty much all use similar brake components unless you specify something different and pay accordingly when purchasing.
You can take preventitive steps to extend the life of all your brake components but it involves disassembly, marinising all the components as best you can using quality sealers on fixed parts and good marine grease on moving parts. Wash down thoroughly asap after launching and retrieving your boat and then spray down everything once dry with inox/lanox or WD40. Try and avoid dunking the brake calipers and or rotors even better.
At the end of the day if you just submerge the whole trailer and a bit laxed about maintenance well you will have no brakes within a short time and a big expense fixing them every 12months unless you have a full SS system but not sure if you can buy SS backing plates on your brake pads.
I have the SS flexible brake lines and a couple of years old now, so far so good and the boat has had over a hundred launchings. The rest of the system is A1 like new also and my gear is nothing special.

[fisho8]

Thanks for the advice guys. I have had all the brakes serviced last year 2 new piston's and 2 sets of pads replaced and the other 2 pistons reconditioned and the wheel bearings regreased. The boat was second hand I doubt the guy that owned it before me did anything to the trailer at all. So $1200.00 later all fixed as far as that goes. Speaking with the service Tech who is a mate of mine he has said when you take the boat out of the water wash the wheels down with fresh water if you have access to it which I do as the Scarbrough coast guard has a hose there you can use for a gold coin donation as I use the hose for this purpose rather than flushing the engine I give them a little bit more. Then take the trailer for a good drive and getting heat into the brakes as this burns alot of the salt residue away so I basically take the long way home trying to use the brakes as much as I can. There is an issue with these lines as far as I have been told as due to the brake system I have the line flex when the brakes are applied as the air is going through and the constant flexing is what has caused them to crack they also have a plastic casing around them which holds moisture which is not good either. So basically now it will have the 2 flexible lines on it. I am happy to say that Redco have come to the party and supplied the flexible brake line for free which I was very surprised they did which has saved me $180. I am very happy to see that they have done this for me and seeing this they will have a customer for life. Northside Marine have been very helpful in getting this decision for me to. I will be picking the boat up next week after the new light are fitted and this line has been replaced. Next thing will be parking my boat up on a mate of mines pontoon and taking the trailer home and Lanexing the whole thing.

[fisho8]

fish08 do you have issues with the brake callipers seizing? I had to get all 4 done after about a year, but admittedly the trailer was in the back yard for a few months without use and the boat was on the dry dock. I have used the boat all the time since i got it fixed $980 later. Now there squeaking again and i'm told that it is likely i'll have to do it again. Not even 12 months later.

Anyone with Redco trailer with this issue please respond. It's got a CCraft on top.

Yeah mate as said I had 2 Sieze on me and yep it is not a cheap exercise to replace them. It has been a bit of a learning curve for me so I now know what I need to do to make sure this does not happen again.:)

[fisho8]

I think you would be hard pressed after 4 years to have the trailer manufacturer come to the party. Mind you I have the same trailer and it is 8 years old and the copper break lines are still going strong. I did think I was going to have to replace them this year when I did a full break service but all went well. If I was to replace them I would talk to Titan brakes down at Cleveland they have all the flex line hoses you would need.
Without wishing to hijack the thread the issue with the Sensor Brakes, regular servicing is the only to keep them or any boat trailer brakes at their optimum and it is not that hard. Every 4 months or so drop a wheel of and check the condition of the backing plate and I give the backing plate a spray with grease and make sure the piston is not to gummy looking. Then once a year, give the brakes a good service this is not to hard and because I am a tight ass I do it my self.

Well looks like I have to put a carton of Beer on then Easyrider and you can show me what I need to do. I really do not like mucking around with brakes but with what the dealers charge it will be worth doing myself. Thanks mate.

[fisho8]

Can't really blame any one manufacturer, they pretty much all use similar brake components unless you specify something different and pay accordingly when purchasing.
You can take preventitive steps to extend the life of all your brake components but it involves disassembly, marinising all the components as best you can using quality sealers on fixed parts and good marine grease on moving parts. Wash down thoroughly asap after launching and retrieving your boat and then spray down everything once dry with inox/lanox or WD40. Try and avoid dunking the brake calipers and or rotors even better.
At the end of the day if you just submerge the whole trailer and a bit laxed about maintenance well you will have no brakes within a short time and a big expense fixing them every 12months unless you have a full SS system but not sure if you can buy SS backing plates on your brake pads.
I have the SS flexible brake lines and a couple of years old now, so far so good and the boat has had over a hundred launchings. The rest of the system is A1 like new also and my gear is nothing special.

Thanks Johncar I am going to be on to all of this now I usually dunk the trailer about half way up the wheels. A good quality system might be the go if this happens again but for now I am going to do all I can to look after this one.

[The-easyrider]

Well looks like I have to put a carton of Beer on then Easyrider and you can show me what I need to do. I really do not like mucking around with brakes but with what the dealers charge it will be worth doing myself. Thanks mate.

That sounds like a good plan feel free to call on me if beer is involved

[wrxhoon]

Do it once do it right and it will save you money on the long run.
Any of you that have problems with rotors and calipers, replace the lot with S/S and you won't have to worry again for many years to come.
I have Kodiak vented S/S rotors, S/S calipers and even S/S mounting brackets, this trailer is now 6 years old and the only maintanence, new brake pads .
I don't have the S/S backing plates on the pads but thye still work even when they rust, no efect on the pistons ( they are S/S ) . You can now buy pads with S/S backing plates , they are not much dearer about $20 extra per set ( 2 wheels).
I dunk my trailer almost up to the top of the guard every time and I olny wash it when I get home .

I know you think they are very expensive to buy, I can buy the full set for 4 wheels, including gal bubs for about $2200 landed, if you just spend $1200 this time anohter $1200 in two years time , you bought yourself brakes that will work, oh the 23mm vented rotors work much better than the local 15 mm solid ones.

At the very list use S/S calipers and normal mild steel rotors, if you use the trailer all the time the rotors will not get the chance to get thick rust on them that will rip your pads off.

[fisho8]

Do it once do it right and it will save you money on the long run.
Any of you that have problems with rotors and calipers, replace the lot with S/S and you won't have to worry again for many years to come.
I have Kodiak vented S/S rotors, S/S calipers and even S/S mounting brackets, this trailer is now 6 years old and the only maintanence, new brake pads .
I don't have the S/S backing plates on the pads but thye still work even when they rust, no efect on the pistons ( they are S/S ) . You can now buy pads with S/S backing plates , they are not much dearer about $20 extra per set ( 2 wheels).
I dunk my trailer almost up to the top of the guard every time and I olny wash it when I get home .

I know you think they are very expensive to buy, I can buy the full set for 4 wheels, including gal bubs for about $2200 landed, if you just spend $1200 this time anohter $1200 in two years time , you bought yourself brakes that will work, oh the 23mm vented rotors work much better than the local 15 mm solid ones.

At the very list use S/S calipers and normal mild steel rotors, if you use the trailer all the time the rotors will not get the chance to get thick rust on them that will rip your pads off.


Thanks mate I will definatly look into this for sure if these brakes shit themselves again as I know what you are saying I have learn't a bit by this now and will know what I need to do next time around. Thanks for the advice.