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Dean1
19-12-2011, 08:37 PM
Hi ive purchased a 560 Sharkcat with a mate recently. We pulled up the carpet and want a bare non slip deck ( no carpet) . I was thinking about applying flowcoat with sand to the floor but is there some other product that does the same job that will be as hard wearing as flowcoat? Thanks in advance for any tips. Deano.

Dan5
19-12-2011, 08:55 PM
What about still using flowcoat but put it on thick and just before it goes off go over it with the roller and let it "spike" up.
When it goes off hit it with the sander and knock the sharp top off of it.
We did it with a charter boat i worked on and its still there to this day after almost 10 years and it gets very heavy foot traffic.

Dan

Noelm
20-12-2011, 07:08 AM
there is lots of products available to do exactly what you want, a guy I know builds cats and on the decks he uses flowcoat and special "stuff" that you sort of trowel on and it makes a fantastic non slip surface that can be hosed and washed with no effort at all, my boat is going to be done very soon, and instead of doing the whole floor, I am getting sort of rectangles done in a light grey over the off white floor, I will be seeing him this afternoon, he is launching another 8m cat so I will ask him exaclty what it is and how it is applied.

Noelm
20-12-2011, 07:09 AM
OH, I forgot, after having carpet for years, I doubt I will ever go back to it after having a flow coated floor for nearly a year now, carpet is almost always wet, stinks like hell and is generally a pain.

Dan5
20-12-2011, 07:18 AM
I think it maybe TALC that they put in the mixture.

Dan

Noelm
20-12-2011, 07:55 AM
no, talc is used to make "bog" a sort of paste to use as a glue or filler, the proper stuff is some sort of abrasive, like coarse sand kind of, but you dont paint it on as such, it comes out very professional looking (well I guess it has to, thats what they use)

Noelm
20-12-2011, 07:59 AM
Dean, there was another boat I saw that the guy did his own non slip, he used plain old flowcoat over the entire floor, then used a "splatter" gun to speckle the flowcoat and sprinkled the non slip "stuff" only on the speckles, that also came out pretty good, you can use a cheap sand blast gun to create the speckle effect, you just need to muck around with the nozzles and pressure to get the desired effect, then mix up your flowcoat with hardener and speckle away! when you are finished, just toss the $20 gun, it will cost more in acetone to clean it.

Nathan Tuskes
20-12-2011, 10:29 AM
Guy that I know that works at haines said you can flow coat then sprinkle sugar wait until it goes off then hose it off so its dissolved

deckie
20-12-2011, 01:13 PM
Anyone see any reason you couldnt throw Intergrip in with flowcoat ?

Just havent seen it done, only with paints mainly on yachts. Cant imagine whynot as long as frequent stirring, perhaps slightly thin the flowcoat with maybe 5% monomer ??
Sand with some fresh flowcoat is a good option, i;d avoid subs like sugar.

Horse
20-12-2011, 02:22 PM
The sugar trick works fine but is hard to get an even finish. Its best to use really big crystals like the fancy coffee stuff. I find sand and other abrasives hold dirt and are hard to clean. I much prefer TreadGrip. It is a latex paint with rubber particles in it used on a lot of larger cruising vessels
http://boatcraft.com.au/Shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5_52
It is available from Boat craft Pacific

I also use tubemat in areas where I stand a lot as its easy on your feet

Noelm
20-12-2011, 02:25 PM
the stuff the pros use is "garnet" the same sort of stuff used in "sand" paper, it is applied mixed along with flowcoat, so as such does not have a really rough surface that will retain dirt, or tear your skin off if you slip, but it is a very non slip coating, I have seen it, walked on it thousands of times.

Dean1
20-12-2011, 08:46 PM
Some good ideas here thanks fellas. Noelm did you get a chance to ask that guy what he uses on his floors? Or is it Garnet? Only want to do it once so hopefully i make the right choice. The rubber particles idea sounds appealing and would be easier on the knees if you slip up pulling in a big cranky fish :)

Noelm
21-12-2011, 06:48 AM
yep, I saw him yesterday at the launching of his 8M centre cab new cat, and it is garnet that is used, it is applied kind of like the stuff they put on rendered houses, and it is fantastic, I will be seeing him again on Saturday and I will see if I can take a close up photo of the surface for you.

finga
21-12-2011, 09:51 AM
What about a heap of those non slip self adhesive ducks mum has in her shower??
Look nice.

FishHunter
21-12-2011, 05:10 PM
I used normal deck paint as in patio, I then sprinkled raw sugar over it and washed it off when the paint dried. Its very grippy however that paint is a bitch to clean as its very matte and holds the dirt.

Thunderace2
22-12-2011, 07:53 AM
what about this stuff, I got some samples of this stuff and it looks pretty good
http://www.regupol.com.au/au/products/sports-leisure/marine-applications/overview-marine-applications.php
I didn't use it in the end as it would have been too hard to get around the hatches of my casting deck

Noelm
22-12-2011, 09:07 AM
I have some very wide (about 150mm) aluminium non slip "tape" that was supposed to be used as road markings, instead of paint when lanes are changed temporarily (so I was told) it is white and reflective, I can tell you, once it goes on, it cannot be removed, I was going to try that at one time, but never did. There is lots of very good stick on tpaes around, some rough as, some smoothish, not too sure how that would go long term though.

Goochi
23-12-2011, 09:54 PM
I used glass beads embeded in the the flowcoat. I guess it's just a more consistant size than sand. Used a roller to apply the flowcoat so that it had some texture and sprinkled the glass on with an old salt shaker while it was still wet. Put another coat over the top to smooth it out and hold it in place. A mate did the other way that has been mentioned - he two toned his floor by flicking a different colour onto his base coat. Just used a stiff(previously used and dried) brush and skillfully flicked speckled blobs over his floor. Looks great and works reasonably well.

tunaticer
24-12-2011, 05:29 AM
If you are going to use a paint, I suggest a two pack epoxy paint like Amerlock, it is extremely wear resistant and will last for decades. We have the insides of some 60 tonne sand bins painted with amerlock because it is so abrasive resistant and lasts for about 3 years before the sand finds the steel work. I would be using Amerlock with the sugar personally. Use coffee sugar for the larger grain size.

oldboot
24-12-2011, 12:00 PM
I've realy given this issue a read hot go in the past & it keeps comming back to some form of sand.

There are heaps of traction products out there, and there are heaps of granular things that people have used.

I spoke to a couple of people who build boats.

I also had a long chat with a mate who has a 40 foot catamaran and hangs arround with the yachty types......he's seen most of em and tried a fair few....remember these yachties are re-serfacing their decks every 2 to 5 years...so plenty of em have tried plenty of options.

Every single option has the issue that they all wear and need refinishing.

The high build texture paints like emerclad, decktred are fabulous while they are in good nick, but when it comes to refinishing or getting them off they are a nightmare.....they are gummy & resilient and they don't sand redily, so they either have to be scraped/chiseled off or atacked with very agressive abrasives at high speed........I have been involved in a couple of these operations and I would avoid it at all costs.

There are lots of things you can put in as a texture.

Sugar in any form is a bastard, becuase it leaves voids and not all the sugar comes off, so of it gets incapsulated in the paint and continues to be released as things wear, can result in a fungal nighmare...besides the texture it leaves is only as durable as the paint you use.

Coffee grounds....too soft and causes ongoing staining.

Ground nut shells or any similar wood product...not hard enough and wears rapidly...is easy to sand back though.

Any of the powders you mix with paint, to make a non slip surface..tend to be far less agressive and far less non slip than realy needed on boat surfaces...my mate used poly carbonate granules last repaint and it was plainly unsatisfactory before the boat even got back in the water.

It keeps comming back to sand....but the type of sand and how you apply it makes all the difference.....I've done a bit of it now and have I think got a pretty good process.

Start with a paint of your preference, something relativly slow drying is an advantage..something reasonably thin and low build ( normal paint viscosity) is good too, so the gell coat or any of the high build paints may work but it is at a disadvantage.

My preference at the moment is single pack marine polyeurathane....but two pack may work wel too.

First, lay down a properly prepared surface, and that includes sealing the timber with a suitable product like epoxy or other wood impregnator or on metal a good etch prime.

Lay down a proper paint finish as you would if you were not doing a traction finish.

within the recoating time limit, mask up sections where the traction is to be...it makes it easier to be in sections you can complete before the paint starts to go off.

Lay up a liberal coat of paint in the masked up traction areas....and without hesitation and being previously prepared, immediately lay down an even, heavy, full and generous coating of sand..you are looking for total coverage of sand.....I put it on thru a sieve.

the more even the paint and the more even the state of the paint going off and the more even the layer of sand the better the job will come up...evenness is the key followed by speed.

Once the paint has gone off well and within the recoating time, remove all masking brush vacume or blow off the excess sand, preferably without heavy contact with the surface.....gently does it...you want all the not adhered sand removed but you don't want to dislodge any stuff that has a chance of sticking well.

then lay up one or two thin but even full coveage coats over the whole surface.....one coat will give the best traction, a second coat will give better wear.

NOW
The sand, I have used ordinary sand, but it needs to be clean, well dry and of an even grain size..a fine sieve is a big help.

I have pregressed onto using garnet grit supplied for sand blasting, it is supplied dry and is reasonably even in grain size.

The other thing is garnet is a reasonably soft abrasive, so when you came to sand back to redo the whole thing it wont tear your abrasive up anywhere near as badly as other grits and sands.

One disadvantage of garnet is that it will taint the colour of the paint, either a pinkish or darkish colour because it is not a white or clear grain.....but it can make a nice contrasts and shows where the traction is so you know where to tread.

hope this helps

cheers

albey
24-12-2011, 02:03 PM
There are a number of solutions for non skidding a deck,
The very best but expensive, is to use a product called Emma Clad,basically a flexible coating which will move with the boat and will not crack,it is applied with a roller of varying degrees of coarseness,we use a fine roller for non skid work,it is available from a Bris Co called Parchem in Hemmant.

My second choice would be an additive available from the likes of Wattle,and is a box of Silica for around $17-18 and you add this to whatever paint you are useing,if we use silica,then we use it in the first coat then overcoat that with paint with no additive in it ,to take off the sharpness.

Third choice and the cheapest is to sprinkle salt which is finer than sugar onto the paint then when all is dry wash it off-let it dry-then top coat it because it will be extremely sharp,and is quite capable of removing skin.

have fun

deckie
24-12-2011, 02:26 PM
Guys, just a short word regarding garnet and silica from an old geologist.
Garnets hardness varies between about 6.7 and 7.3, practically identical to quartz. Almost identical abrasive qualities as quartz.
Silica is SiO2 which is the most common mineral on the planet...quartz.
Sand is just quartz, or another name Silica.

On a scale of hardness/abrasiveness Garnet wont be any softer than sand, nor easier to remove. Oldboot...if it seemed easier to get off that will be more determined by the paint it is embedded in.

Check the packet albey, that $17-18 box of silica might have come from a kids sand bucket. If u see "pure silica" thats like saying "cleaned sand" Sand has been marketed in all kinds of ways to make a buck, but basically varies only in cleanliness, grain size, and rounding of the grains...its all just silica and should be the cheapest product on earth...the opposite end of price from platinum/gold.

Beach sand is generally a very rounded grain sand...if i had a choice i;d look for a fine grained beach sand, clean it thoroughly then dry it thoroughly before using.
Steve.

oldboot
24-12-2011, 04:00 PM
From a simple geological point of view garnet may seem just as hard as quartz or common silica or glass for that matter, but if you have done any reading on or use of a variety of abrasives garnet breaks down more redily that other abrasives.

The reason you select garnet as an abrasive is that the grains easily fracture into sharp, jagged smaller particals, where harder grains will remain in one piece and get blunt.

Garnet sand paper is not common these days because it simply does not last as well in use as aluminium oxide or silicon carbide which are the majority of commercial abrasives these days.
Garnet paper is only used by those who specificaly require its properties.

Silicon carbide and ALOX both have a hardness of arround 9+

Common sand will tend to tear the grains out of your abrasives where garnet will tend to break off and break down.......don't kid ya self you will get good life out of your disks, you will still go thu em at a fair rate till you get past the grit, but the garnet will be a significantly easier job.

This is one reason you use garnet for sand blasting is that as it breaks down it remains sharp and usefull......let me tell you there is a big difference between garnet and ya basic sand for sand blasting..appart from ordinary sand not being good for ya health garnet hits a lot harder and cuts much better.

I've cleaned and dried common cheap sand in the past for a variety of uses......it is a slow labourious process......and depending on where it comes from it can be far from pure silica, beach sand for instance may a significant amount of calcium in the form of shell and coral particals ( which effects it PH) and all maner of other things, mineral components like zircon.
River sand can also have a variety of grains in it.

Yeh I played that game and $30 for a 25Kg bag of clean, dry, 100% garnet of a consistent partical size, looks pretty good to me.

As for the Emmerclad..yep been there too....I have painted and texture coated plenty of speaker boxes with a very similar product (some say its a badge job), it builds well, is very resilient and you can work a huge variety of textures with it.....great stuff till you have to get it off.

That is what my mate used last time he did his traction areas on his cat.....and it was great...best traction product he has seen or used.......that is until you need to get it off.......it was an unpleasant excersise in butchery.......he will certainly never use the stuff again.

As far as anything you mix with paint.....played with some of them.....unless they contain a gelling or suspending agent it all sinks to the bottom very quickly, so you constantly have to agitate the container.....because the grit is in the paint you cant spray and the paint wont flow nice with either a brush or roller...... then getting an even distribution can be a PITN.......been there tried it and even on small areas it is a fiddle.

OH and then there is the cleaning of the equipment.....ya might as well throw the gear out as you go.

As far as the finish being sharp.........I'd rather loose a bit of skin ocasionaly than end up sliding over the side on my @r$e...if it wont take the skin off ya nuckles, it aint non-slip enough for my liking.

cheers

deckie
24-12-2011, 04:44 PM
oldboot...with all due respect we're looking for non slip, not abrasion.

In terms of the aluminium oxides/silicon carbide etc you're now starting to talk about carborundum, which is a hardness of 9 out of 10. Yes its much harder/stronger abrasive and largely man made.
Aluminium oxide in corundum form is more a natural mineral and used as "corundum paper" and also for contact spray abrasives. Same hardness as tungsten carbide..widely used as the alloy with impregnated diamonds as the toughest drill bit we use for drilling quartz (effectively silica/sand) rich formation which are horribly abrasive.
Rubies for instance are simply corundum or "aluminium oxide", a ruby has a trace/impurity of chromium making a rarer red form, and the sapphire is also the same thing "aluminium oxide" but with a trace of titanium creating the blue.
You're getting into harndness of the grains, once u get above sand (quartz/silica) its pointless really...what you are using to apply it will be making the difference, not the extreme hardness of the grains used or whether they somehow fracture.
Beleive me..a sand grain may round/weather over time but your feet/shoes arnt going to make a trace of difference on the grains...but will abrade the paint that is holding them for sure.
Quartz (sand) is pretty tough stuff matey..certainly more than capable of a bit of non slip and roughly free to acquire from the local beach. As u say..what we use to apply it with is the key to longevity.

oldboot
24-12-2011, 05:05 PM
As I said...ready to go, clean, dry, size graded garnet can be had for less than $1.50 a KG.

And that is the best grit I have been able to come up with to this point, and applied as I describe, is the best non slip surface option, I have been able to come up with after quite a lot of looking and experimenting.

cheers

mungindi
27-12-2011, 06:54 AM
Morning,
I have used this stuff " Kiwigrip" it is easy on your feet not hard to clean it has a soft feel under foot and if you kneel on it and it works you can get it in Australia through the dealer in the West. http://www.pachena.com/KiwiGrip_Links.asp.
Gary

finga
27-12-2011, 08:57 AM
Why use garnet if it stains or discolours?

I use pulverised glass (silica) in the big bead-blaster and I've used it as a non-slip surface because that's what I had there at the time.
I just paint (usually 2 pak) and use the little portable bead-blaster to spray the glass beads on when the paint is tacky.
I hold the iddy biddy blaster away from the surface (well over arms length) and the spread of glass is very even and consistent.
But on my boats I just paint without any grippiness as cleaning any gritty stuff is a pain in the butt.
I use camping mats as the grippy thing to stop me from slipping.
They just come and and get washed and the floor is all smooth to make the washing of the floor easier.

oldboot
27-12-2011, 11:43 AM
I did not say garnet stains, and almost any grain will change the appearance of the paint, particularly if it is a light colour.

AND the reasons FOR the garnet are as I have discribed.

cheers

finga
27-12-2011, 12:01 PM
One disadvantage of garnet is that it will taint the colour of the paint, either a pinkish or darkish colour because it is not a white or clear grain.....but it can make a nice contrasts and shows where the traction is so you know where to tread.

hope this helps

cheers

Why use garnet if it stains or discolours?


I did not say garnet stains, and almost any grain will change the appearance of the paint, particularly if it is a light colour.

AND the reasons FOR the garnet are as I have discribed.

cheers
I also said discolours....Isn't that taint??
Taints, stains. It's all a discolouration of the original paint and simply semantics.
Why use it when other products are available that work just as well, if not better, for the slip resistance without discolouring the finish at all. ie glass beads or pulverised glass or white washed sand??
Just because it's cheap is not a good enough reason when you consider the cost differentiation between garnet and say glass beads. Glass beads are about $40/25kgs.
The discolouration that is evident when using Garnet is reason enough NOT to use it.

And the idea that there is any difference is removal of paint with either garnet or silica or glass embedded in it is just crap.
If Garnet breaks, or fractures, off in the manner you have described then that is another reason not to use it as a durable no-slip additive. It simply won't be durable if it breaks down easily. It simply would not be long until it's broken down to the paint height if there is heavy use....wouldn't it??

oldboot
27-12-2011, 12:42 PM
Arguing purely for the sake of arguing again are we finger...or is it arguing simply because I have posted something.

Either way by doing so you display your lack of basic english comprehension.

Marlin_Mike
27-12-2011, 01:03 PM
What happened to the good old days........... whack some paint down then sprinkle a hand full of sand through the paint?????????? Instant non slip surface.

oldboot
27-12-2011, 01:08 PM
Yeh done that too, Of course it works..but..if you don't put another coat of paint over the top, the grit breaks away from the paint and the whole job does not last long.

And its very hard to get a nice even consistent texture.

cheers

Aussie123
27-12-2011, 01:09 PM
For ever and a day the fishermen along the NSW coast have used beach sand on their decks.
They collect the sand from the very back of the dunes where it has been washed through for years with rain water and is virtually salt free.
I have helped do many decks with beach sand and it seems to be a perfect grit for doing them.
We also did one in a sand blasting grit and if you fell over hard on the deck it would rip so much skin off you.
That was the worst deck I had ever been on.

oldboot
27-12-2011, 03:16 PM
Regardless of what grit you use..if you are finding it too agressive, another coat of paint will soften the texture.

If couse, how agressive the finish is will depend on how big the grit and what the material is....some blasting grit is very big.......using alox or silicon carbide will make a very sharp grit and when you go to refinish your abrasives will not last at all.

cheers

albey
27-12-2011, 07:08 PM
All we are trying to do here fellas is to break the gloss surface so that slipping doesnt occur,its surprising how little the roughness has to be to acheive a non slip surface.There is no need to produce a surface with volcanoes all over it and thats the reason that the Wattle product I suggested earlier works so well,the product is extremely fine(about castor sugar size)and not from a kids sand bucket as was suggested by someone who obviously hadnt used the product and just chose to criticise for criticisms sake.Because it is so fine it also wont settle to the bottom of a paint mixture due to the low weight of the individual grains,(maybe it will in time but not during the application time).

deckie
27-12-2011, 09:21 PM
yanno ...one day someone in here, just one maybe, might understand that when contradicted it isnt a personal thing and it might simply be to help.
Albey, you understand what you're saying and advocating dont you..you understood what i said too. You have purchased and are recommending what is effectively SAND from wattyl. Fine grained SAND. Understand ?
Oldboot...you also understood what i said regarding garnet...it is POINTLESS using it because it will perform identically to sand unless used as an abrasive which we arent doing. Its a scientific nonsense that it will somehow wear better than sand underfoot. It just cannot and is therefore a complete and utter waste of time whether you like to hear it or not.

All you need to do is figure out what to put the sand on with...what holds it best and what weathers and wears the best.

So forget the bloody grains ..sand/quartz/silica, its the SAME THING. There's a 100 ways to market the same thing. Garnet ?..for god sake it makes no diffrerence whatsoever.

You will not wear down sand particles underfoot...you can and will dislodge them over time from the matrix holding them, and you can and will wear the product used to put those particles onto the deck.

So for a grit non slip surface all you need to decide upon is how to apply some sand, and what size grains you want. Arguing over names of products or some of the other stuff is like saying "my sand is better than your sand". It is freely available at very low cost down the beach.

Why be pigheaded about something so mind numbingly basic.

That "kiwigrip" suggested above is looking better by the minute.

oldboot
27-12-2011, 10:04 PM
Different people have differenet expectations about the fished product, some people have longer term view than others.

If you recon that all you need to to break the gloss..yeh fine...but for some people that simply is not enough.

Not just me but other people I have spoke to have tried the fine particles & powders that just about every boating finish supplier will have and found that they do not give enough grip for their liking.

There are heaps of products that will do the job..and they all have pros and cons.

But so many of us keep comming back to sand of some discription.

There are two reasons I prefeer garnet.....and sorry but it is obvious that some people don't grasp it....the first is convieninece and consistency...the second is that when you do come to attacking it with abrasive when it needs refinishing it does give you an easier run and it does not knock your abrasives arround as badly as most of the other availble grits.


The pros and con of a variety of methods are here.....you can make your choice.

I have tried a number of methods on verandahs, stages, ramps, walkways, stairs and a couple of boat decks..and the method I described earlier is in my opinion the best all round method I have found to this point.

In my serach I was given the name and number of a retired shipright who still runs a small boat yard....he is a customer of my abrasives supplier.....he kindly and eagerly described exactly the method I described earlier and said that he had also tried many methods and products and that he keeps comming back to the method described..although he has simply used sand from the builders yard.

Don't slip & fall on ya @r$e.

cheers

finga
28-12-2011, 07:22 AM
Arguing purely for the sake of arguing again are we finger...or is it arguing simply because I have posted something.

Either way by doing so you display your lack of basic english comprehension.
How does it display my lack of basic English??

Yeah. I argue a lot of your posts. Why??
Because they're worth arguing about. You just keep harping on trying to justify what you've said....even if it's wrong.
You said a disadvantage of garnet is it will taint the colour of the paint. I said why use it if it stains or discolours and you said I did not say Garnet stains. I also said discolours. What does taint mean?? Who's argumentative??

You argue with people with professional qualifications in every thread you post in (Deckie is a prime example in this thread) and I'm the argumentative one.
You argue with people who have been doing the job for a long time with no complaints but they're wrong because you've talked to a dude.

Deckie is been very polite. I've seen enough not to be polite.

oldboot
28-12-2011, 10:26 AM
Don't worry finga there are other forums where people value my contribution, and can discuss different points of view happily and amicalby, without arguing for no good reason.

I watched this board decend from a point where there was some vibrant, decent and helpfull technical discussion....where the goal is establishing the facts or what works well.
I keep comming back to see if anything has changed......its hasn't.

I go onto other forums where there are people who used to post here, but no longer do.

By the way if you don't know the difference between the word "taint" and the word "stain", I sugest you get some one to explain....perhaps a plumber.........or perhaps try a dictionary.

cheers

bigjimg
28-12-2011, 11:00 AM
Stipple the surface of the coating you are applying as it starts to go off.You just have to time it right and there is no need for any additive of any kind. I thought KiwiGrip was contact cement,in that case glue a pair of shoes to the deck and step into them when fishing.I've laid down a product called "SureGrip" on many a surface that the general public travels over.It is as tough as hell and comes straight out of the drum.Jim

finga
28-12-2011, 05:10 PM
By the way if you don't know the difference between the word "taint" and the word "stain", I sugest you get some one to explain....perhaps a plumber.........or perhaps try a dictionary.

cheers
Well bugger me. I did a google and had a gander at the first cab off the rank from the search results and guess what a synonym of taint is.
STAIN
Other synonyms of taint are:
noun. stain - blemish - blot - spot - smirch - smear - smudge
verb. contaminate - pollute - spoil - corrupt - foul - infect

Maybe my basic English is not that lacking??

Actually my English skills maybe lacking as I had no idea of the second cab off the rank.
Urban Dictionary: Taint-The area between the nutsack and ####### that prevent a man from shitting on his nuts.

rogerb
28-12-2011, 06:53 PM
Having built and run several charter boats I have been through several treatments for a non slip deck. Being at sea 200+ days a year gives the deck a pretty good workout and I found sand would wear out in heavy use areas in a year. Whilst building my last boat I came across some ceramic blasting grit, this was white in colour, a bit coarser than granulated sugar and had been used to blast aluminium castings.

When I sold the boat 7 years later it was still in great condition. To apply I rolled about 1 metre sq with flow coat. sprinkled the grit over the area using a sieve then gave it a quick roll to bed it in before moving on. Don't forget to add waxing styrene to the flowcoat. Try Googling grit blasting supplies, it comes in different grades, you don't want it too coarse.

Cheer, Rog

finga
28-12-2011, 08:13 PM
Wow. I never knew about the ceramic media.
I may have to look for some of that.
Here is a bit of a blurb and differences between the different medias.
http://www.abss.com/abrasive-sand-blasting-equipment.php

preso
28-12-2011, 09:50 PM
Get better shoes.....

oldboot
29-12-2011, 10:41 PM
Well bugger me. I did a google and had a gander at the first cab off the rank from the search results and guess what a synonym of taint is.
STAIN
Other synonyms of taint are:
noun. stain - blemish - blot - spot - smirch - smear - smudge
verb. contaminate - pollute - spoil - corrupt - foul - infect

Maybe my basic English is not that lacking??

Actually my English skills maybe lacking as I had no idea of the second cab off the rank.
Urban Dictionary: Taint-The area between the nutsack and ####### that prevent a man from shitting on his nuts.

there ya go again.
A synonym, is a word with a similar meaning...but not necessarily the same...back to english class again.

The words as used definitely have different meanings... and that has always been your problem.......failure to comprehend english in context.

If you took time to understand what I post before you decide that it is wrong we would not have a problem.

OH, and google fails you again.

cheers

finga
30-12-2011, 08:59 AM
So what's the difference between taints and discolours??
What is the definition of taint?
What is the definition of stain?
Teach us oh wise one??

Why can't we use ceramic as a non slip deck additive as Rog has suggested?

Spaniard_King
30-12-2011, 10:30 AM
This is almost as good as an Etec Thread :)

bigjimg
30-12-2011, 10:55 AM
I take my hat off to the both of you.What good old fashioned entertainment.How about this Oldbootasaurus and Fingationary.And take it in the context in which it was written......Humour.Jim

finga
30-12-2011, 03:43 PM
What else do you do when the winds blowing?

I could go and weed the garden I suppose.

Spaniard_King
30-12-2011, 04:08 PM
What else do you do when the winds blowing?

I could go and weed the garden I suppose.

Take the Mrs shopping to build up the browny points :) (mind you the browny point jar is overflowing with all this weather)

finga
30-12-2011, 04:59 PM
Take the Mrs shopping to build up the browny points :) (mind you the browny point jar is overflowing with all this weather)
The cook's like me. She hates people especially those in shops.
She was in Brisbane yesterday and had to go to the Hyperdome. She went there and left before she stopped the car.
I'm full up with brownie points too Gary.
The cook has just had her blind dad with us for a week. He doesn't speaka da Engwish and is a handful. A big handful for the 2 of us. Did I mention he's a handful??
I could go and dig the garden but...
Or I could go and wash the wheely bin but...
Or I could do something to drain the browny point bin out a bit. Know any wooden boats for sale???
That'll drain it quicker then look at it :)

Horse
30-12-2011, 05:33 PM
I wonder how the Garnet would go in a Cat in north QLD if it was powered by E-tecs?

I have used sand in various forms for over 30 years. It wears unevenly and looks shabby in big deck areas. The Shipwrights from Gilberts gave us some fine glass beads to be sprinkled on some flowcoat. You dont roll them in or anything and they have been the best in terms of grip and being able to be cleaned easily. I still prefer the rubberised finishes but the glass would be my second choice.

finga
30-12-2011, 06:09 PM
I wonder how the Garnet would go in a Cat in north QLD if it was powered bt E-tecs?.
Now that would have to depend on the chop wouldn't it??

Dean1
17-01-2012, 06:06 PM
Gee it sounds like a few of you boys need a good fish!! Thanks for all the input. I have all the gear except 'the sand' :) The ceramic blasting getup sounds good i may go down that path. Just waiting for this rain to leave so i can tackle the job. Got 10 ltrs of grey flowcoat to do the sides (insides) and the floor should be enough. Ill put some pics up when im done. Keen to get this cat into some of that nrth Qld chop and if Pete tags along in his 18 SC we will have an etec powered cat in nrth Qld chop so we will have lots to talk about!

deckie
17-01-2012, 07:47 PM
Whatever u choose from sand to diamonds...if u apply with a poor batch of flowcoat dont blame the grit. If you look down and half the sand is gone from certain areas...its all about how u applied it and what u used. If you decide on Kimberley pink diamonds its just as likely to be patchy in 3 months time coz guess what..its all about what u applied it with. Sandstone for instance weathers by the matrix/cement between grains breaking down, releasing the grains in exactly the same way. When you see a well worn convict sandstone step..the wear comes from the grains being released, not the grains wearing down.
What u apply it with is the weak point of the operation.
Silica/Quartz/Glass/Sand is all just SiO2, same thing, same abrasion, same hardness, only varies in grain shapes and sizes. Yes they make glass and glass beads straight out of sand. You can go up in hardness if you somehow believe the grains themselves are wearing...but guess what, it'll still be all about what u apply it with and knocking the grains out of its matrix.

Dont prep it, mix a crappy batch of cheapo flowcoat, dont overcoat it, etc and there's really not much point blaming the grit if it looks a bit patchy. Varies from boat to boat. The difference between it lasting or not aint the grit you're using.

Dean1
17-01-2012, 08:40 PM
Whatever u choose from sand to diamonds...if u apply with a poor batch of flowcoat dont blame the grit. If you look down and half the sand is gone from certain areas...its all about how u applied it and what u used. If you decide on Kimberley pink diamonds its just as likely to be patchy in 3 months time coz guess what..its all about what u applied it with. Sandstone for instance weathers by the matrix/cement between grains breaking down, releasing the grains in exactly the same way. When you see a well worn convict sandstone step..the wear comes from the grains being released, not the grains wearing down.
What u apply it with is the weak point of the operation.
Silica/Quartz/Glass/Sand is all just SiO2, same thing, same abrasion, same hardness, only varies in grain shapes and sizes. Yes they make glass and glass beads straight out of sand. You can go up in hardness if you somehow believe the grains themselves are wearing...but guess what, it'll still be all about what u apply it with and knocking the grains out of its matrix.

Dont prep it, mix a crappy batch of cheapo flowcoat, dont overcoat it, etc and there's really not much point blaming the grit if it looks a bit patchy. Varies from boat to boat. The difference between it lasting or not aint the grit you're using.Ye that sounds like a fair point deckie. Well i have a bag of prewashed sand downstairs for the dogs sandpit so i mite just use that then. I am going to sand the floor up properly and use flowcoat i got from FGI. Heaps of people use FGI gear so it should be fine hey? I will roll on a coat sprinkle the sand on with a sieve (or if anyone else has an idea here) let it dry then do another coat over it? Sound right?

deckie
17-01-2012, 09:07 PM
Dean, i'm no flowcoat expert, just reminding us all the reality of a job a thousand have done before..everyone with different results and for some strange reason they always blame the grit, rather than what was used to put it on.

If flowcaot isnt as tough as quartz/sand/glass/silica, would it not make sense that is what is causing the wear ?

The type of questions we SHOULD be addressing is whether or not something like flowcoat is tougher wearing than polyurethane, 2 pac, or whatever is available.

Just like as cement/concrete wears/abrades, you tend not to see a pile of sand/grit in a corner or in the bilge, it just magically disappears and u dont even notice it most of the time.

Water is also surprisingly abrasive, especially salt water. You get some guys blasting away cleaning decks, then pissed off that their grit is patchy already, but they go searching for some sort of tougher grit for some silly reason. Every pro boat does it differently, and i dont know whats best..all i know is what is dumb.

Think of this topic as like rustproofing trailers..u need a good 3-5 years before any truth comes out and by then noone ever returns to give it a thumbs up or down...plus no guy likes to spend time and money then tell everyone it was a waste and been a dill. In this case if its a grit floor they just blame the actual grit used and dont come back saying "it was no better than the last one".

Sounds like you;re on the right track. I'll be soon putting on either a heavy slab of regupol velcro'd in corners, that sits under its own weight, or some seadek coz i'm not far off 50 and like a bit of comfort under the dogs. A nice helm pad and i'm sweet coz i drive standing up. There's a water based hydrocarbon resistant non slip around like a paint...might have already been mentioned in here...wouldnt worry me at all reapplying it every now and then, get a fresh looking deck anyway, thats defintiely an option for me too. Same as you, i hate carpet, stinks, wont dry fast enough, bastard that snags anything needs to be glued or press studs in the deck which i hate the iddea of too.
Good luck
Steve

finga
18-01-2012, 05:25 AM
What u apply it with is the weak point of the operation.
Silica/Quartz/Glass/Sand is all just SiO2, same thing, same abrasion, same hardness, only varies in grain shapes and sizes.
Are you sure?? ;)

Shawn 66
18-01-2012, 05:58 AM
:P
The cook's like me. She hates people especially those in shops.
She was in Brisbane yesterday and had to go to the Hyperdome. She went there and left before she stopped the car.
I'm full up with brownie points too Gary.
The cook has just had her blind dad with us for a week. He doesn't speaka da Engwish and is a handful. A big handful for the 2 of us. Did I mention he's a handful??
I could go and dig the garden but...
Or I could go and wash the wheely bin but...
Or I could do something to drain the browny point bin out a bit. Know any wooden boats for sale???
That'll drain it quicker then look at it :)
So what your trying to tell us is , he is a handfull , is that right?:P
Shawn::)

deckie
18-01-2012, 08:35 AM
Are you sure?? ;)
yeah why ?..u discovered some sort of super silica i need to know about ? Could be a few (hundred) million in it for you if its as hard as corundum but can be found in the cats litter box. Think of all the fancy concrete we could mix whilst having a beer...plus glass that the kids cant put the foooty thru. Deck grit is just the tip of the iceberg my new best friend ;D

CCDrifter
20-01-2012, 09:00 AM
I just finished reading all of this thread and let me tell you it hurt!!!!! I now know that Finga and oldboot have a fetish for getting up each others nose......I think Administrator needs to put up a new forum section called "strong wind warnings". So Dean did you actually come up with a way to do the floor and hav you had achance to complete it?

Dean1
22-01-2012, 10:00 AM
I just finished reading all of this thread and let me tell you it hurt!!!!! I now know that Finga and oldboot have a fetish for getting up each others nose......I think Administrator needs to put up a new forum section called "strong wind warnings". So Dean did you actually come up with a way to do the floor and hav you had achance to complete it? Ha ha yeah its spiced the thread up a bit no doubt! Im having a go at it tomorrow mate if this rain pisses off, got a day off work and keen to have a big day on her. The new 585 furuno turned up so she may get fitted up too. The inhull tranny will be a task but we'll get there and get into some fish soon hopefully! Cheers..

Dean1
25-01-2012, 09:14 AM
What a mission with the rain but with a tarp set up we got the floor sanded and a layer of flowcoat down and then some clean beachsand. When we get a dry day a layer of flowcoat will go over this. It looks good so far and im pretty confident ive made the right choice.

I mixed the flowcoat in 2 lots instead of doing it all in one go only because it was my 1st attempt but wish i did it all in one go as you can see a line where the 2nd lot joins but i think it wont be as noticeable when the layer goes over the top but its a fishing boat so some blood and scales will soon hide a bit of that!