Ignition Circuit

[dadstinny]

Hi all, I have an older suzuki and on doing a compression test I think we blew the ignition circuit.

She cranked over a few times then stopped, now when you turn the key you get nothing just a few little clicks and nothing else.

Electric Tilt / Trim works and so does all other electronics just no kick.

Was considering it was the starter but its not even engaging.

Where should I start looking on the ignition circuit?

Thanks!

[hakuna]

Between the ignition key and the motor there will be a fuse, that's the one you have to find, if wired properly it will be just behind the ignition key, if not near the motor

Cheers

[dadstinny]

Thanks for that, failing the fuse being the culprit as I suspect there is no fuse (could be wrong) but looking the motor over there is not much usage of fuses.

I guess the next steps is to measure the voltage at either side of the solenoid and starter and check where the drop is to see if we blew the solenoid or possibly have an over arching starter issue?

By not disconnecting the ignition circuit are they the likely culprits or could it be something else?

Thanks again!

[Fed]

If the solenoid is clicking then you haven't blown the fuse.


I guess the next steps is to measure the voltage at either side of the solenoid and starter and check where the drop is
You're on it Dad.

[Roughasguts]

Dirty contacts on your ignition switch when you turn it to start!!!!!

Ofcourse provided the battery is good and all other contacts are clean and tight.


what model year old Suzuki???

Cheers.

[dadstinny]

Cheers all, up till know I have not heard the solenoid tick. It was reported by the helper as I turned the key there was clicks but I didn't personally hear it as I was turning the key.

Battery is ok, but I think I will check everything in this order

1) Turn key listen for clicks
2) If no clicks check for fuse from wiring from the switch back to the motor

If no joy -

1) Measure each side of solenoid
2) Measure starter motor
3) Look at figures

I don't think its battery or contacts as it was starting fine prior to the compression test. When doing the compression test the starter was engaging but seemed to be a bit light on if that makes sense. Then it stopped, so we put plugs back in and reconnected and then just nothing, we tapped the starter a few times and it gave us a few more kicks but then its just stopped. It was starting fine when we purchased it on the weekend so I am guessing we either shorted a fuse but I have doubts there is even one in this motor but will double check. Failing that I am guessing we blew the solenoid and or burnt out the starter motor in the process of doing the compression test without disconnecting the ignition circuit.

Are there any other components I can look at? Going to do this all this afternoon but guess it depends a great deal on the motor age. I am Not sure on age its a suzuki 60hp twin cylinder, its older model which is a greeny colour casing if that helps. Will grab the model number of it and see I can determine age.

[Fed]

If you have no clicks the fuse should be under the motor cowl, it's there to protect the wiring running up to & back from the controller.

[Noelm]

just because it was working before, does not mean it does not have a dirty battery connection now, almost everything is " OK before it broke" as with all trouble shooting, do the very simple stuff first, remove and clean the battery terminals, test the battery, measure the voltage at the solenoid (as mentioned) do not start by pulling things into a million bits.

[Fed]

I completely agree with using a multimeter Noel, I only mentioned the fuse location in case he started pulling his controller apart looking for it.

[dadstinny]

Totally agree, nothing will be ripped into a million bits :)

Just will clean all the contacts, then multimeter everything looking for the problem and will post back the numbers.

[Fed]

Use the multimeter first to find the fault, if you do the clean up first you may never know where the problem was and that's frustrating.

[dadstinny]

Hi all, figures as follows from the multimeter test.

The solenoid clicks once for every turn, it doesn't click repeatedly. So if you turn key to run you get one click of the solenoid and if you are holding the key you get no more clicks. To get a click you have to turn back the key to the off position and then back to the run position

1) Battery reading = 12.1v
2) Positive battery terminal on solenoid = 12.1v
3) Little terminal on solenoid (from ignition circuit) = 10.8
4) Starter motor side of solenoid = 11.9v
5) Starter motor positive = 11.9

So I am guessing foobarred starter motor?

There is a black wire going down at the base of the solenoid but I couldn't get the meter on that. I am guessing this is negative?

[dadstinny]

Can anyone ID this motor year or model number?

Its a suzuki 60hp with a green colour cowl and body.

74106

[Fed]

So you're putting the positive lead from the multimeter onto the positive terminal of the starter motor right?

Where are you putting the negative lead of the multimeter?

Your 'clicks' are wrong, are you sure you don't mean the 'start' position instead of the 'run position?

I can't help with model ID, does it have a nameplate somewhere?

[dadstinny]

Hey Fed....

Yes you are right its the start position as it not running yet!!

I tried a few different locations for the negative lead of the multimeter with the same readings as follows, one direct to the battery negative, the block itself and another ground point all providing the same readings.

Positive terminal of the multimeter connected to the positive terminal of the starter motor reads 11.9v.

Do you think its the starter???

I am thinking its the starter as clicks aside the solenoid is delivering voltage to the starter motor. It is dropping from 12.1 from the battery side of the solenoid to 11.9 at the starter motor but I wouldn't think .2v drop would cause it to not start at all????

I am not electrician but I would assume so.....;D

[Fed]

Well it has to be the starter motor Dad, probably needs some brushes.

They are easy to fix if you're at all handy or an auto electrician can fix it if you couldn't be bothered.

[dadstinny]

Cheers fed I am guessing so, if I am right its a big learning curve about electrics and as much as I am pissed it happended it probably better it happended in the yard and has now given me some confidence with diagnosing issues if and when it does happens.

I think I have managed to get a rough ID on the motor.

http://www.justboating.com.au/Starter---Sierra-S18-6428.html

That looks like the start motor I have as it has the leg on the bottom of it and its a 60hp so that would put it at an 84 - 85 model motor.

Dam what a sting for a starter OUCH! :)

[Fed]

$1100 for a starter motor, wow the whole outboard must be worth $50K.
They don't miss you eh.
Fix the old one mate.

[dadstinny]

Yep its bloody insane 1100???

Fingers crossed an auto sparky will be prepared to re bush it.

I have removed the starter motor and will do the ring around tomorrow morning.

[cobiaman]

Yep its bloody insane 1100???

Fingers crossed an auto sparky will be prepared to re bush it.

I have removed the starter motor and will do the ring around tomorrow morning.

Where abouts are you located mate?

[dadstinny]

I am in Sydney!!!! Looking at your profile your in Gold Coast? If you have anyone you can recommend up there it would be apprecaited as we holiday up there a bit so if it goes again would be handy to have some details of some one!!!

Will be doing the ring around this morning not sure how it will go but I am honestly surprised Suzuki doesn't have an oem model for this starter motor or at least a parts back up service.

When you go to the suzuki site and you click spares you get a blank page!!!! :-X

[dadstinny]

Arghhhhhhhhhhhhh!

Had the starter motor tested by a sparky and he said the starter is working perfectly (At least I don't need a rebuild / new one).

He suggested to put the starter back in apply power directly to the starter from a set of jumper leads, both negative and positive with nothing else hooked up and see if she will start that way.

He mentioned some other things like bad earth, wiring fault etc.....

Back to the drawing board!

[cormorant]

My guess s you battery is stuffed. Under load it will not produce voltage but on a static multimeter test it looks OK

Try another battery or the car battery

Where in Syd are you?


Edit Just read your reply . Miles away from me . Just work through the issue step by step. If you have a good battery and you know the starter is good it is the wiring in between. Not sure if the autoelec tested teh starter under load or had a good look at it but sometimes a ride in teh car will free up a soloniod or testing not under load won't show a fault. Powering teh starter directly from your fresh battery is the next step to prove both battery and starter are OK.

[dadstinny]

Hey mate, Western Sydney Liverpool area!!!!

Will try a new battery this afternoon.....

[Fed]

You got 11.9 Volts between the terminal of the starter motor and the block but the starter motor doesn't spin.
The starter motor is faulty, end of story.

All bets are off if you told us fibs dadstinny.

[Fed]

One tiny other possibility is that the starter motor wasn't earthed to the block but I very much doubt it.

[dadstinny]

Hi Fed, no word of a lie I did the test about three or four times with the same results.

I took it to a very nice auto electrician today and he put it on the bench in a vice and put a set of jumpers on it and it spun right up. He said it is working perfectly and seemed excellent.

I know about this test but don't have a vice and was not confident at doing it in the boat just yet so didn't do this myself and wanted an auto sparky to test it properly which he did.

He said to me its a possible scenario with what I am experiencing but suggested as I mentioned bad earth or faulty wiring. I can't understand the faulty wiring bit as there is voltage getting to the starter. One other thing he said is sometimes you can get power to the starter but its just not strong enough to get it to spin.

He suggested to do this.

1) Put starter back in but don't connect anything. Disconnect battery and to connect jumper leads to the starter directly from existing battery and see if it is giving enough to start and work backward from here ie earth first then positive.

[Fed]

11.9 Volts is plenty enough to spin a starter motor and I can guarantee your 11.9 Volts is as good as the 12 odd Volts he put on it.

Perhaps you gave it a bit of a shake up and dislodged a stuck brush, that would account for what's happened so far.

I should have told you to test between the starter motor positive terminal and the outer case of the starter motor to ensure the case was earthed but that's a real long shot.

I've been letting the smoke out of wires for 45 years so I've seen it all.

I live in Chipping Norton so if you get really stuck I can help you.
Don't get frustrated with it you're nearly there.

Edit: Put it completely back together again and test between the starter motor terminal and the starter motor case with your voltmeter.

[dadstinny]

Hahahahahaha you are like 10 minutes from me :) small world.

I have a marine mechanic coming out tomorrow to service the motor but looks like he will be fault finding first off :)!!!!

I am going to put the starter back in and just double check the battery and let him have a go at it and try and learn something from him.

It will probably end up being something either really easy or I missed something, either way a learning curve for sure :)...

Cheers for the support mate it is appreciated!

[Fed]

No worries mate.
Another thing I thought of was you said you tested at the starter motor terminal, was it the terminal or the cable lug? There is a difference.

[Noelm]

take some meter reading when someone is turning the key to the start position, we need to see if the voltage drops to nothing (well nearly nothing) you can have a full 12V with the key just to "on" and get bugger all when the starter/solenoid tries to engage.

[dadstinny]

I tested the terminal itself sticking out of the starter. :)

[Fed]

Just to clear up what Noelm asked, you had to be testing with the key in the start position because that's the ONLY time the starter gets power, right?

[Noelm]

OK, here is a (very) brief rundown on what happens in a starter circuit, from the main battery positive, there is a thick cable that runs direct to the big terminal on the solenoid (this always has 12V) the solenoid also has a smaller thinner wire, this is connected to the ignition switch and has 12V only when the key is in the start position, the solenoid is just (sort of) a remote switch, when you turn the key, the solenoid "energises" and pulls a big contact to make a circuit from the big battery terminal ( the "click" you hear) on the starter to the starter motor itself, which then spins (when it is working that is) so, if you have 12V at the big wire (you will) but when the key is turned to start, the 12V drops to nothing you have either a dud battery, or a crap connection either end of the thick wire (or the wire itself is stuffed) now if you get a short "jumper" wire (or a screwdriver is often used) and short the thin wire to the big wire, you are in effect bypassing the ignition switch and associated wiring!, be careful doing this, becuase a spark can often ignite petrol fumes, and that will make life very intersting for a while. can anyone follow what I just said? I kind of confused myself.

[Noelm]

I am such a dumb ass, I forgot, the negative return to the battery is via the casting of the motor itself, which is connected to the negative of the main battery via a bolt and another thick wire, this side can also be affected by bad connections and cruddy wire, so make sure you test both "legs" + and -

[dadstinny]

Thanks Noelm make perfect sense.

Yes I was testing with a helper I had the multi meter and they had the key.

I got 10.8v from the ingition wire when turning the key, I read anything about 9 volts was enough but I am suspect on this reading a little.

Either way I have voltage all the way to the starter so not sure!!!

[Fed]

Either way I have voltage all the way to the starter so not sure!!!
Is that when you test between the starter motor terminal and the starter motor case?

If you're getting that 11.9 Volts then the starter motor is faulty.

[dadstinny]

Sorry Fed not following?

I get 11.9v at the terminal that is sticking out of the starter. I have not tried the lug but will do.

I have not tested the case at all, are you suggesting to check the case itself??

[Noelm]

I think we have slight bit of confusion here, the big terminal on the starter/solenoid, has 12V all the time, it is a direct feed via a big thick wire from the positive on the battery, the smaller wire has 12V ONLY when the key is in the start position, hence when you short the big wire to the small one, the starter engages (if it is working) what it actually does ( when the key is in the start position) is energise an electro magnetic gizmo inside (the click) and that in turn moves a big copper contact inside the starter to complete the 12V for the starter to turn, the whole electro magnetic "gizmo" is called a solenoid. It is used because without a solenoid, you would require a big battery sized cable from the battery, up to the key, then a huge switch capapble of carrying the current, to another thick cable all the way back to the starter, get the idea? the solenoid is simply a remote. electro magnetic switch.

[Noelm]

so to sum up, you turn the key to "start" it then supplies 12V to the thin wire on the starter, this then "clicks" and pulls a big heavy contact inside into contact with the thick wire on the solenoid, in doing so, it supplies 12V and high current capability to the starter motor, which is needed to spin the motor over. Jesus i am finding it hard to put into words what I want to say/type.

[Fed]

Noel you're saying starter instead of solenoid sometimes, I know what you mean but it could be confusing.

Dadstinny, yes, test between the terminal and the case, that is as close as you can get to the starter motor without pulling it apart.

[Noelm]

yes, I guess when I read it, the descriptions do get a tad confusing, and as I said way back, the CASE is the negative return, so it (or anywhere on the motor that is metal) becomes the negative side of the whole circuit, there will be some sort of bolt that has the negative cable attached to it. I guess it would also be prudent to ask if you have battery main switch in there somewhere, that "COULD" also be a potential customer to check out.

[dadstinny]

Hi all, its definetly the starter motor!!!!

Put it back in, measured voltages no cranking.

Gave it a few good wacks and a bit of spin on the gear with a screw driver, cranked again and we got a little bit out of it.

Don't understand how it test fine on the bench but on the boat its no good. Maybe the starter and motor don't like one another?

Cost for a rebuild is around the 200 - 300 mark but I may be able to get a new one for some around the $750 mark.

The suzuki starters have a leg a the botom of it where it mounts to the block and because of this the standard oem models don't fit it and the suzuki after market parts made sierra etc are $$$$$$.

Ho hum!

[Noelm]

still not 100% convinced it's the starter, but you never know hey!

[dadstinny]

I must mention the person who did the last testing was a marine mechanic :)!!!!

He is 100% convinced its the starter motor.....

[Noelm]

OK, thats just about sealed it then hey! off shopping you go.

[dadstinny]

Shopping is the hard bit!!!!

$1000 for a new starter motor absolutely ridiculous.

[Fed]

Did he test between the starter terminal and the case, if so then the starter is 100% faulty.

Pull it apart & see what's wrong with it, can you buy replacement brushes?

[dadstinny]

They can rebuild it cost is 200 - 300 but worried it might stuff up again! Parts can be ordered but are not easy to obtain.

My main concern is I don't want to spend $300 then in four months time have it break down on the water. So leaning towards forking out for a new one.

Its the design of the unit, it makes it a unique part so making a mould for it is specific to that model starter motor. Unlike other brands merc etc hence the costing!!!

In terms of testing essentially he tested the same thing I did then gave the starter motor a bit of a whack and also pushed the gears with the screwdriver then I turned the key and it cranked for about a second then stopped repeated the same thing whack, push the gear and crank then stop.

So it is getting current its just foo barred!

[Aussie123]

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/caltric/m.html?_nkw=suzuki&_sacat=0&_odkw=suzuki&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3911.c0.m270.l1313

Have a look through this guys ebay shop and if your starter is not listed shoot him an email.
You should get a new one for around $200 or maybe less delivered.
My Tohatsu one was $140 new and delivered to my door and he is great to deal with.

[cormorant]

At any time did the mechanic power the starter directly with jumperleads from a fresh known to be good battery? Until that is done don't buy anything. There are a couple of cheap internal bits in a starter that can be checked and replaced , soloniod, contacts and brushes , bushes that only take a few minutes to pull down and confirm that is the problem.

$200 for a rebuild by a auto leccy ( who already say sit is ok) is a good option compared to chasing a "unknown "one.

[dadstinny]

Hi all, marine mechanic has the starter motor and is getting it repaired / replaced but I am leaning towards getting a new one.

Only reason I am leaning towards new is just for the fact that any part on these motors is like gold.

I don't want to be in a position of having to replace it in 3 months time again as I may just not be able to then.

The new starter motor has a full 12 month warranty in Sydney so although expensive I can get it repaired / replaced quite easily.

I was speaking with a dealer yesterday and he said the genuine part is $900 and will take a week to get here as well. He also unwilling said what I had suspected and if this was a merc I would only be up for $200 or $300.

The marine mechanic checked the entire circuit as I did, then he loosed the starter by moving the drive at the top and gave it a few wacks with a big screw driver and she kicked over a couple of times when he did this. It only kicked once or twice but was enough. He did the same thing a few more taps and pushed the teeth then we kicked it again and she got a few kicks and stopped. He has the starter now and is going to get it repaired / replaced.

Just a bummer a new part costs so much, I am also very hesitant as I have done a few starter motors in older cars and re brushed / refurbished units just don't seem to hold up as long as new parts.

[rayken1938]

Try wacking a screwdriver across the 2 large terminals on the solenoid and see if the starter turns.That will eliminate the solinoid.Next step jumper lead from positive side of battery direct to starter motor an see if it spins up. To my mind if it spins up on test bench its either a wiring problem or the solenoid.
Cheers
Ray

[dadstinny]

Hi all spoke with the mechanic, starter was checked out needs a complete overhaul and no gaurentee can be given on the rebuild.

Its completely cactus apparently....

So my option is to buy a brand new one at a cost of $1000 or rebuild this one without a warranty. I am going on a trip in a few weeks so don't want to risk it obviously.

I am absolutely astonished and mods feel to remove it but I will never buy another suzuki product in my life again and I will be writing a letter of complaint to Suzuki on their price gouging and complete lack of parts for older model outboards.

Sorry for the rant but just cannot believe the price gouging on suzuki parts. Its absolutely disgusting, I asked around and a comparable Merc / Yamaha starter is a max of $300 and available anywhere.

[Fed]

If you get it back off him I'll take a look at it & give you an unbiased evaluation on it's condition.
I might even fix it for you for free if you get any parts needed.

[dadstinny]

Hey Fed thanks heaps for the offer it is appreciated.

I already told him to order it as I have no time left as we are leaving on a trip shortly and I just want the boat back on the water and trouble free whilst on holidays. At least this way if he puts in and it doesn't start he is not getting the cash out my pocket so this way I am guaranteed a fix if you know what I mean.

If we weren't going on a trip probably wouldn't worry about it so much and just cop the no warranty but just don't like the idea of it.

I will probably save the one he gives me back and get it rebuilt but keep it for a spare unit just in case.

I am intending on replacing the motor next year and will be looking for a very different brand I can tell you! 8-)

[Fed]

OK the offer still stands for the old one as a spare.

[Fed]

Did you edit your last post or maybe I misread it?
I understand you're between a rock & a hard place but really why don't you grab it off him, cancel the new one for tick and give me a look at it.

[dadstinny]

Hey Fed, will hit you up once I get back with the old one :)!!!!

I just called and its already ordered and I am booked in to have it installed, motor service and compression tested.

[dadstinny]

I am also considering contacting the guy I bought the boat off and see what he has to say about it to!

[Fed]

OK just send me a PM if you want to do anything later.

[dadstinny]

Cheers mate, like I said really appreciate your help I have learnt alot and especially how kind and understanding members can be on this forum!!!!

Will PM you when I get back, off to look at a new 60hp mercury online and start saving for an off season swap over :)!!!

[dadstinny]

Ok bit of an update!!!!

Got the new starter motor and a new battery and some new connections......

Boat now cranks, starter engages and flywheel spins.

But, no firing.....

I check compression and I am getting 115 and 119 roughly, getting spark from the spark plugs, I have fuel but just no bang.

Am I just cursed????? :)

[Roughasguts]

You using full choke??????
Most two bangers will never start without it!

Cheers

[Fed]

I bit of history might help too, is the motor new to you, why were you compression testing, how did you test for spark, how did you test for fuel, how did you try & start it etc?

[dadstinny]

Hey, I got her firing and running YAHOOO!

But alas its not meant to be, she is running like absolutely crap.

Whenever you move from the fast idle lever to accelarate the boat just stalls.

If you jam the fast idle up to choke full and then quickly back of and accelerate you get a bit of a put but nothing else.

Had a bit of oil coming down the leg and a bit of petrol hanging around in the water.

Bit of history, I only bought the boat a week ago and water tested it and it was running fine. Age old story got it home went to compression test to check it out and then everything that has happended has started since this compression test.

For me I am done with this boat, only bought it a week ago with hopes of getting through a season in it and repowering the old girl but now I have locked it up out the back and don't even want to look at again! :-[

[Fed]

Well you've got compression and it was running fine a week ago so there shouldn't be much wrong with it.
Fuel & oil running out is only unburnt fuel and typical of a cold cranky 2 stroke.
At your current rate of progression you should be good to go by tomorrow night.

[dadstinny]

hahahahahahaha love your positivity fed :)

I have now laid down the tools!

I am looking at two options now with the impending trip coming up....

1) Getting another tinnie / inflatable for this trip

2) Getting the marine mechanic back out to check everything.

The only reason I am hesitant to do any more work to it is as to purchase any part for this motor they are either non existent or you are paying $$$$$..

Its already cost 1k today for a bloody starter motor and battery. :) I can spend anymore or may as well just buy another bloody motor.

[dadstinny]

I am also a bit suspect on the coil packs to, they are working but not positive on their condition overall.

I went looking for a coil pack replacement and Suzuki strikes again and nothing can be found for the motor without importing it into the country or paying suzuki premium prices and waiting a couple of weeks for them to arrive............

[Roughasguts]

Sounds like it's barely running on one cylinder!

Put new plugs in, drain the fuel bowls on each carb, then prime the fuel bulb to flush out the crap fuel put the drain screws back in. prime the fuel bulb again and see if it goes tight and you can no longer prime. Put fresh fuel in the tank and see what happens.

Let the motor idle for a while to heat up then gradually increase power until the motor is warm and burn't off some of that oil sitting in the crank case, then run around 1500 Rpm for 10 minutes.

Good luck with it.

[dadstinny]

Cheers mate, that's what it felt like one cyclinder...

I did put new plugs in after I got her running as the old ones looked pretty crap.

As mentioned I am suspect on the coil packs but can't get them easily.

Will check on monday if anyone has them.

[Fed]

If you want to throw parts at it then a genuine Suzuki manual would be the most cost effective, then you could test the coils and be happy.

[Roughasguts]

Nah your doing something wrong here I'm just guessing but your motor has electric solenoid choke as all DT 60's circa 1983 - 1984 have.

To start your motor push your key in!!! not turn it! you should here a click from the choke solenoid under the engine cowl once you here the click! turn to start the choke will stay on full by itself for around 10 seconds if the engine stops push key in to choke again. Like I said two bangers need there choke and they need plenty of fuel until warm.

That there lever you mention is just the warm up lever no choke involved with that there lever.

You don't have to start the boat to here the click! and with the cowl off you can see the solenoid move the choke linkage.
Don't give up yet !!!!!!

Cheers.

[dadstinny]

OK multimedia ausfish boat testing is about to happen!

I put the tools down and the boat away but I couldnt resist another tinker.

Went outside and low and behold first kick she starts up nice and tough, idles a little rough but putting it into gear and accelarating caused no stalling.

Well ill be buggered as this is not how it was behaving at the boat ramp.

I have a couple of therioes.....

1) Fuel mix that the boat was supplied with is wrong, the new plugs are black with oil suggesting to much oil in the mix.

74254

2) I found a linkage loose on the carby can you tell what or where this goes?

74253

I was looking at this - and it seems to be wrong compared to what's in the book there doesn't seem to be anywhere for it to connect to?

74255

3) Accelartor cable seems loose.

4) Here is a video of the motor idling....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPexX_GuL90

So from all this I am thinking the following

1) Fuel that was pre mixed when I bought the boat is wrong mix type to much oil. I am going to drain the tank, the carby and replace the plugs again. Refil the tank with 50:1 and plug it back in.

2) Find out what the carby link is and why its missing?

3) Get the marine mechanic out and get him to tune it and service it and repair speedo cable.

Thoughts?

[Roughasguts]

Carby link is the top carb choke should be conected via the bottom carb to that solenoid electric choke looks like only one choke linkage conected.

Plugs look about right wet and black!

That little lever with the thumb tab is the manual choke.

But you should be able to choke the carby via pushing the ignition key in that will move the solenoid and choke both carbys for 10 seconds.

[Roughasguts]

By the way you have either a DT 60 CLD 1983 or DT 60 CLE 1984.
The way you can tell is if the engine no after the 06001-301001 means 1983 with the 06001-401001 means 1984.

[Swanie1975]

like roughasguts said you will hear the choke solenoid click when you push the key in. next time from cold try the fast idle lever halfway up and push the key in (choke) while trying to start. i had big problems with my old suzi 2 stroke until i got the starting method right and it never looked back after i worked it out.:-?
i later sold mine to a wrecker on the goldie so it might be worth trying 2nd hand parts if you are still having issues. gutsy motors normally and the comps are reasonable for and old beast so take a deep breath and give it another crack;D

cheers ryan

[dadstinny]

Thanks everyone for the help and support it is appreciated I am feeling slightly more confident....

So would not having the linkage connected cause the motor to not idle / stall under load? Or is it a choke item only to assist in cold starts?

If that is the case I can breath as I don't fancy having to track down a replacement for this part.....

The motor seems to play up in the water but on muffs idles and accelerates fine, on the water it struggled. Could there be something else going on to cause it to misbehave when it has back pressure from being in the water vs on muffs?

[Roughasguts]

Do both spark pluugs get warm when the motor is running the top one will be slightly hotter than the bottom one! but you should be able to hold a wet finger on the plug or cylinder head for at least 7 seconds before it gets un comfortable and you have to take it away.

The idle might be set a little low for it to run smoothly with the back pressure when in the water.

But I wouldn't adjust anything until you have put premium fuel in it not E10 and given the motor a desent flogging on the water a few minutes top speed will do it the world of good.

[Roughasguts]

Just thinking that top choke lever is flapping in the breeeZ not restrained by any other linkage so the choke could be comming on just by the butterfly in the carby's venturi being sucked closed.

And that alone could stall the motor when giving it throttle.

[dadstinny]

WINNER!!!!!! I found the missing linkage it had dislodged and fallen forward, I hadn't really looked for it but you can see it in the picture. Curiosity got the better of me and I went and had a closer look at it and I have hooked it back up now.

I am going to adjust the speedo cable as it is a bit loose, reconnect the carby linkage and put some new fuel and mix in it.

What fuel should I use premium or normal unleaded??? You mentioned premium but is it better to run it all the time on premium?

Ill get the marine mechanic I had helping do a full service on it and get him to adjust the idle and carbies.

I am going to try and get a drum, bucket or collapsible bucket to put the motor in to simulate have it in the water vs having it on the muffs and give it a run on this and see how she handled compared to being on the muffs.

Marine mechanic is due back on Tuesday for the service so ill start hunting around for the bucket etc so I can give it a good run in the bucket before he comes.

Just need to put some fresh cold water into the bucket every now and again so she doesn't overheat.

[Roughasguts]

Any kind of good marine mechanic should have his own bucket! or run tank.

[dadstinny]

Yer the guy I am using is a mobile guy and he doesn't appear to have one with him......

[dadstinny]

Going looking for bucket / tub today to see if I can replicate the on water test fault.

Was just wondering if the ignition pack can be replaced by a generic unit on the older model outboards?

Whilst my ones are operating I just want to put some new ones in as the cables and connectors look pretty bad.

Also good bad spark cause it run rough / stall under load but ok on muffs?

[dadstinny]

Okay today's update I now lay the tools down and give up officially :).....

Got the bucket, put the motor in it and it just will not start. Tried all methods suggested pushing key in etc but just nothing cranking and then nothing.

So I pulled one plug to check for sparks and the other half decides now is a good time to turn the motor over and what do you know she fires. I had one plug in and one plug out and it fired. It was not my intention to do this and was just simply a mistake by the person turning the key. They quickly shut the motor of but it was the only time the motor fired and ran.

I tried to connect the missing linkage and you can see it engage now when you start the motor but no firing.

I changed the plug on the cylinder that no spark plug in it when it started but same response.

I also tried in the bucket and on muffs and no joy.

My feeling is the motor is just to hit and miss and I don't think I really feel comfortable using it on the water.

So not sure where to next and even if I get it running right wether I would trust to be more than 10 metres from the shore with it.

[dadstinny]

Just a question would a 40hp be ok on a 4.7m boat???

Not looking for a rocket ship but now considering just getting a cheap motor to get us by and part out the suzuki before spending any more money on it.

[krazyfisher]

i would think 50hp min but 60hp+ would be much better. I have a 4.95 glassie side console and the 75hp is about right I could get away with a 60hp but no less for me

[dadstinny]

Ok bummer, I think I might be stuck with a 40hp until I can save some biscuits for a decent motor.

I can get a good second hand 40 for around the 2 - 3k mark which will get me through the season from a dealer.

Might be a bit slow but will at least get us moving.

Is there anyway to find out the specs for a yalta craft 1600? I am wondering what the max hp is and transom weight. Its an 89 model, I am need to contact yalta craft and talk to them.

I saw a Johnson 115 second hand that I could afford.

Also I am not sure what the steering types are could someone let me know wether my steering gear will swap over to another motor or are they all specific to the motor it is on? Its got a bracket and cable at the front of the motor I think its simply cable steering?

[tunaticer]

I am sorry Dad but this motor should fire and run quite well. Are you sure the choke solenoid id moving both choke butterflies enough? Seeing the linkage was fully disengaged is it possible when you reconnected it the two butterflies are opposing each other giving one full choke and the other a fully open throat?
Is the solenoid arm between the lower choke linkage and that brown contraption to the left (choke solenoid) actually moving when you press the choke on the key? Does it return when you release the key?

I suspect your problems are opposing choke vanes and possibly an inactive choke or a third possibility is a sticky reed valve from the motor being sitting for a length of time.

I would not lose my cool with it, the solution is simple, you just have to find the spots that need attention.

The fact that it will fire on one and not the other is most likely because they choke vanes are opposing each other. One carb being choked the other not.

The motor does not look neglected, but the fact that the choke linkage is completely unscrewed is enough to wonder if a home service was done and it was not reconnected as an oversight. The problems began and they ditched the boat to you.

Good fuel, good compression and spark and it will run.

[dadstinny]

Thanks everyone for your support, I just checked spark and she has it.

I then did a compression test and the top cylinder is now reading 90 psi where yesterday it was reading alot higher.

Not sure if the new battery is starting to get flat from all the cranking and not running but every time I touch it either it does something completely different or something else appears to break.

Not to mention all the stress I am causing you guys who are trying to help its like russian roulette ;D

Aside from this the biggest problem with this motor is even if we get it going the parts are super expensive for everything so if something else buggers up then we will have to spend a fortune on parts and they may not be available either.

To date these are the costs I have spent / about to spend.

1) Starter motor - $800
2) Service and troubleshooting - $400 (Not spent yet but due to spend on tuesday)
3) Time stressed out on the water - PRICELESS

My intention was always to put another motor on in the winter next year something like a new 60hp or 70hp as for the price of the boat it makes sense.

So I can just cut my loses, save the $400 I was going to spend on the marine mechanic and get a second hand 40hp for around the 3k mark with a 3 month warranty installed. I'll chuck the starter motor on ebay and give some one else like me a good deal and get some money back for tackle!

The company I get it from will also trade the motor back, obviously a reduced price but will give me something of the new motor when it comes to winter next year.

I have an engine crane available so I can remove this motor and store it for now then decide what I am going to do with it.

At least this will get me going for the holiday and provide me a fishing vessel. Its an Evinrude VRO and the cost of a starter motor for this is about $200 - $300 but its under warranty so doesn't bother me.

[Roughasguts]

Dude I think you need to offer one of the blokes here a carton of P!ss and take all the advise given on board and sort it out on the water for you.

To me it seems an easy fix just a little bit of logic and following given instructions. ( EG a damn good flogging at wot) Suzukis are a solid motor no problems with CDI or oil Injection maybe some rust in earlier models but that's it a good solid donk with plenty of guts.
Also give up your marine mechanic and maybe do it your self but listen to what the guys here have to offer and take it on board no need to throw parts or money at the motor just listen and learn from these guy's on the forum, and you will be better off safer on the water with your family on board and you will save plenty of dollars.

Don't mean to be harsh but just slow down and take it all on board and do exactly as sugested by these guy's that have been with outboards, boats, inboards, for decades.

Cheers

[dadstinny]

Cheers mate, I have been listening :)......

It's what has gotten me to this point with a semi running motor!

So I just tried what was previously suggested looked over the choke linkages and by holding the choke open (the one on the left that was connected) I can get it to fire now on the top cylinder.

The electric choke is working it actuates the linkage on the right and this seems to be the problem the linkage on the left is not connected to any of the electric choke components.

So it seems like its as suggested carby / choke adjustment is required. It will not fire the top cylinder due to no choke. By pushing down on the linkage it fires right up.

I let it idle for 5 minutes and did another compression test and both cylinders have come up a bit to 105 psi.

Still short of what it was yesterday but its up there.

I appreciate the efforts of everyone, I am listening to everything everyone has said and think more of the advice I have gotten on here than anywhere else (even from my mechanic :) ).

Whilst I think it should be relatively small to fix I just don't want to end up with another $1000 bill to repair anything else on the motor that may go wrong.

If it was a jonno, merc or similiar and parts where a dime a dozen I would stick with it and get it fixed but just for the fact that suzuki parts are so dam expensive on this motor it just does not make economical sense for me to proceed.

I have not thrown any parts at it right now other than the starter motor which was required and some plugs.

I may be able to get away with spending the $400 on the marine mechanic and getting him to fix it and service it but if something else decides to go wrong then I am stuffed as I would have no other option but to pay the bill.

Could be the choke is foobared, could be the carb needs a rebuild but the cost and availability of parts to repair this is just far to much.

I am on a trip in a week and a bit hence why I am in a bit of a rush but overall I just want to enjoy the trip and take the boat.

[STUIE63]

I would persevere with this motor a little bit more .

[Roughasguts]

Have you done what I earlier sugested with the carbs prime until hard drain and see what comes out should be 40 ml from each carb (if none then you have a blockage) then prime again to flush needle and seat Etc. you do this to eliminate E10 fuel blockage from the carbs needle and seat or you could pull the carbs down but no need if you you do the above E 10 is crap in a outboard and will kill it in no time. All that should only take a couple of minutes and that then eliminates most fuel related problems.
Then you do the spark plug heat test with your finger (7 seconds) if both have even temp then you have good spark, remember top cylinder will be hotter as heat rises.

Now whats left is clean plugs now there only as good as what cold built up oil is left in the crank case the only way to remove the built up oil is a good flat out flogging on the water with clean premium fuel cleaning al the fuel lines crank, bores and hopfully cleaning some of the carbon out the head.

But thats another thing if you need to clean that out get some carby cleaner and spray through the spark plug hole until wet let it sit for a few minutes the plugs back in and start up ASAP that will remove a lot of old carbon buil up. But no need for you to do that at this stage think we should just get it going for you to give it a good flogging.

He he maybe Suzuki parts are dearer cause there ain't much call for them My Suzuki hasn't had a part put in it for over 10 years and those were only anodes and plugs filters, oil change gearbox Etc.

Cheers

[krazyfisher]

i would think you are best to stick with this motor till you can buy the right motor, otherwise you will be wasting your money on a motor that will not do the job.

[dadstinny]

Have you done what I earlier sugested with the carbs prime until hard drain and see what comes out should be 40 ml from each carb (if none then you have a blockage) then prime again to flush needle and seat Etc. you do this to eliminate E10 fuel blockage from the carbs needle and seat or you could pull the carbs down but no need if you you do the above E 10 is crap in a outboard and will kill it in no time. All that should only take a couple of minutes and that then eliminates most fuel related problems.
Then you do the spark plug heat test with your finger (7 seconds) if both have even temp then you have good spark, remember top cylinder will be hotter as heat rises.

Now whats left is clean plugs now there only as good as what cold built up oil is left in the crank case the only way to remove the built up oil is a good flat out flogging on the water with clean premium fuel cleaning al the fuel lines crank, bores and hopfully cleaning some of the carbon out the head.

But thats another thing if you need to clean that out get some carby cleaner and spray through the spark plug hole until wet let it sit for a few minutes the plugs back in and start up ASAP that will remove a lot of old carbon buil up. But no need for you to do that at this stage think we should just get it going for you to give it a good flogging.

He he maybe Suzuki parts are dearer cause there ain't much call for them My Suzuki hasn't had a part put in it for over 10 years and those were only anodes and plugs filters, oil change gearbox Etc.

Cheers

Cheers mate, didn't drain the carbs but I let the motor run till it stalled no fuel tank attached. Replaced fuel with a good mix of unleaded I had, no premium but it was not e10.

That's when I tried to start it dead cold today and it wouldn't start.

All that was required to get it started on both cylinders was to hold the left linkgage down.

74274

I have not tried the spark plug test yet I will try it out tomorrow but don't you think as it started by holding the choke linkage down it suggest something with the carby?

[dadstinny]

i would think you are best to stick with this motor till you can buy the right motor, otherwise you will be wasting your money on a motor that will not do the job.

Cheers for the comment mate.

I know the 40is slow but I can get a 115 Evinrude second hand 99 model just not sure if the yalta craft is rated for it. Will looking into this tomorrow.

And unfortunately the wife does not trust this motor anymore :)....

She would rather have a slower motor but something that is going to start and run once out on the water.

At the moment the suzuki has not instilled any faith into the minister for finance, war and peace other than to stick another motor on the old girl and move on.

[tunaticer]

Dad, immediately to the left of that disconnected choke link is the throttle link between top and bottom carbs, those two links should look identical with a brass threaded connector between them so top and bottom choke butterflies operate together as one unit. the one solenoid will operate both. Find that brass connector and tune them so both butterflies operate simultaneously at the same orientation and your motor will start and most likely run sweet. One cylinder getting choke will fire it and not the other leaving it running like a tick.

[dadstinny]

Dad, immediately to the left of that disconnected choke link is the throttle link between top and bottom carbs, those two links should look identical with a brass threaded connector between them so top and bottom choke butterflies operate together as one unit. the one solenoid will operate both. Find that brass connector and tune them so both butterflies operate simultaneously at the same orientation and your motor will start and most likely run sweet. One cylinder getting choke will fire it and not the other leaving it running like a tick.

Thanks mate, that is what I was looking for but looking at the manual diagrams there is nothing that links them?

74286

When you press the key in and the choke kicks in the linkage that is disconnected moves up and down but the one that is connected does not.

Just need to find out what links these two I suppose.

[tunaticer]

Item 17 is the brass connector that is missing, unsure if it is threaded onto the bottom link or rides on a shoulder in the bottom arm, definitely threads onto the top arm and locks in place with a lock nut to keep the setting right. Find that and it will run sweet.

[dadstinny]

Gday mate, I found item 17 and hooked that this morning.

What I found was when I went to start her dead cold 17 was actuating when I pressed the key in but she would still not start.

I pushed the number 19 rod down and this caused the motor to idle high and start.

My thinking is number 17 should be joined to number 19 so when the choke kicks in it moves both rods.

The electric choke though seems to only actuate 17 and with this connected she would not start.

I had to push down on number 19 to get it to start and this seemed to be the sweet spot for it.

I will try this again tomorrow to confirm once its dead cold but I am pretty sure this has alot to do with the issue at hand.

[dadstinny]

Now that I have read this a couple of times I had to go outside and double checking everything....

The one on the right is the choke, the one on the left is accelerator.

Although I reconnected the part that was missing its out of whack and adjustment wise hence the choke is not working.

So by me yanking on the left one I am giving it gas and its starting up.

So get the choke working and I should be able to get her to fire cold.

When she was in the water and stalling, stop starting it could have been because the choke lever was not connected which could have caused her to stop firing on one cylinder / stall / run like a pig / not start as the flap in the carby was just flapping about closing of air supply etc? Is that to far fetched?

My only other thought, is if that is the case why was she not starting by using the fast idle lever as that would have given her gas to?

[Roughasguts]

Using the fast idle lever won't give the motor more gas on start up, it does the opposite by opening the venturis in the carbs, giving more Air.

Choke closes the venturis therfore the motor has no air to suck only the fuel sitting in the float bowls of the carbs, two strokes have weak suction and the fuel air mixture has further to travel with many more bends than a 4 stroke EG: around the crank case through many ports, all full of air until you have the motor running! that's why they need choke until the corect fuel air ratio is acheived! otherwise your just giving the motor air!

Cheers.

[dadstinny]

Makes sense, so fast idle lever is doing pretty much nothing to help get her started.

She needs to be started first on both cylinders before fast idle even comes into it.

So that pretty much seems to be it, the cause of the grief is the choke is not working and by me hoping on the accelarator manually its getting her going from cold but the choke should be doing this.

It would seem then as well the choke not being connected could be the cause of the stalling etc as the venturis where probably being closed / open at random times as they where just flapping about.

Alot of this has been mentioned before but now with all the pieces to the puzzle it seems to be the fundamental cause of the running issues.

So plan is this,

1) Going to pull the front of the carby of so I can see the venturis properly and adjust the lever I had disconnected to see if it will start from cold with a fully functioning choke. I am assuming the venturis need to be in a fully open position when the motor is off so as long as they are open and connect and tighten this lever then when the choke kicks in it will close them (At least that's the hope). ;D

2) If it won't start ill hop on the gas and see if this gets her to kick over

3) I also found the accelerator cable seems to need adjusting so I am going to pull the cable a bit tighter.

Ill the get the marine mechanic out tomorrow and hopefully he can tune her up properly in a bucket not muffs.

I had a bucket but I split it yesterday so I am going to grab another a tad bit bigger this time.

And I will get him to do his own compression test on it and see how it all comes out.

Hopefully this will sort it out but not sure if the marine mechanic will still be able to come out with the rain as I have no garage.

If he can't make it then I am pretty much stuffed as I only have a few more days to sort this out.

So failing all this and if the rain stops the mechanic from coming out I have a 50hp Tohatsu brand new lined up to install and will fiddle with the suzuki and get it running when I get back and then sell it off as a runner.

[cormorant]

Use ya garbage wheelie bin - or your neighbours. If you look under the lid there is a list of things that can't be used for. Outboard testing is not on the list so they were obviously designed for it!!!;D

NSW mechanics aren't scared of the rain not a couple of weeks out from chrissy when santa needs to put food on the table- they ain't from QLD ya know. Gotta say your mech worries me a bit. Melb ones have a sombero so don't even notice the constant rain.

Get that old starter back as well. Got a feeling $10 and 2 new bushes, brushes or contacts will have it reborn but depends on what beer Fed drinks.

let the mechanic do all the adjustments. Don't fiddle now when it is at least running.

[dadstinny]

SUCCESS Today, ok so I got a flush bag the one that collapses and yes it does collapse at all times guaranteed :)!!!

So I had the motor in the flush bag which was filled with water to replicate some back pressure to present the motor with a cold start at the ramp in some way.

I adjusted the choke so the carby was open with the choke lever disengaged and closed with the choke lever engaged. I didn't touch any other adjustments just this.

Pushing the key in to actuate the choke I gave her a kick in the guts and nothing, gave her another kick and bang it started from dead cold in the flush bag full of water.

Idling a little rough but started up ok from dead cold!!!!

So I let it run for about 5 minutes to warm her up and then I engaged drive and accelerated with the drive lever a tad (This is where the word collapsible bucket needs a rethink :) ) and she coughed and spluttered and the conked out.

So I turned her back over and she started up again, this time I pushed down on the accelerator linkage with my hand a slight bit to increase the idle and had a helper engage drive and accelerate with the drive lever a tad. She now pumped water quite well and kept running YAHOO.

The bucket however was another story :) and next time I think I will wear thongs not joggers when using the bucket.

So I took the motor out of the bag and put it on muffs, she engages drive and accelerates without me increasing the idle manually due to no back pressure.

So she runs well and engages drive on muffs but in the bag with back pressure she needs an increase in idle to get her going.

She is bouncing a little whilst idling and running a bit rough so I am thinking a tune up and once over and we should be good to go.

Will await the mechanic tomorrow with baited breath and cross my fingers for a good compression test and carby service.

Really hope it is A OK!!!


Use ya garbage wheelie bin - or your neighbours. If you look under the lid there is a list of things that can't be used for. Outboard testing is not on the list so they were obviously designed for it!!!;D

NSW mechanics aren't scared of the rain not a couple of weeks out from chrissy when santa needs to put food on the table- they ain't from QLD ya know. Gotta say your mech worries me a bit. Melb ones have a sombero so don't even notice the constant rain.

Get that old starter back as well. Got a feeling $10 and 2 new bushes, brushes or contacts will have it reborn but depends on what beer Fed drinks.

let the mechanic do all the adjustments. Don't fiddle now when it is at least running.

Hahhahahaaha no comment on the mechanic is all I am going to say but if you know some one in Sydney who is mobile and good at the tools PM me the details. Its a crappy time of year as everyone is booked up as most people are like me getting ready for the holidays!

I adjusted the choke lever its pretty simply to reverse what I have done but just wanted to test this. I left everything else alone.

I will make sure I got the starter back and have a look over it to.

[albey]

When this is all over Ill be somewhat dissapointed,happy for you dad,but a little unhappy that the serial has finally finished.
This,to me,is what these forums are all about,putting your hand up cause youre in trouble,and then people with nothing to gain except for helping someone out,and even offering their labour to help out a fellow fisher.
This has been a good learning experience for me and many others I'm sure,on outboard mechanics from those with years of experience,a lot of which I'm sure was gained from similar disasters in years past.
Enjoy your holiday dadstinny,a little poorer monetarily for the experience,but I'm sure richer at the same time.
Well done guys---loveit----have a great Christmas

[STUIE63]

it is good to hear that it runs now . it won't be long and you will end up trusting this motor again

[tunaticer]

Good deal Dad, Give it a tune up and adjust the chokes to work at the same level in unison and splurge on a set of plugs and you will be sweet.

Personally I use surface gap plugs in my two strokes, they do not suffer from carbonisation and never wear out. 15 yrs so far on the plugs in my Rude and still runs fine.

If your fuel lines do not have an inline filter yet, fit one with a clear glass section so you can see the quality of the fuel it is picking up. Lots of crap comes out of old tanks as a rule.

http://www.biasboating.com.au/product_p/5036.htm cheap and effective fuel filter for inline installations.

[dadstinny]

Thanks to everyone who has followed the thread and most of all helped me steer through this mess of wires, plugs, chokes and gauges its been a whirlwind!

I have learnt alot in a few short days from all the responses and bits of information and have gone from looking under the cowling and being very intimidated to now being somewhat confident although certainly not skilled :).

From the previous comments its definetly what this forum is about and thats bringing like minded people together and helping some one out in need. ;D

I now have a running motor, although it still needs some fine tuning its a long way from where it was.

Fingers crossed tomorrow the compression looks good, the mechanic shows up, the weather plays the game and the mechanic can actually tune carbies!!!!

There is alot still to come but without the assistance of everyone on here tomorrow just would not be a reality!!!!

Huge thanks to everyone for sticking with it and yes some lessons learnt in this thread my three favorites are AIR, FUEL & SPARK!!!! I now have a deeper appreciation for how engines work.

Happy christmas to everyone as well and Ill post up as soon as the results come in from tomorrows mechanic visit and maybe even another multimedia session of hopefully a running tuned motor :) in a completely collapsible bucket. :D

Cheers!!!!!

[dadstinny]

Hey all, the mechanic was out today......

Compression is an even 115 so all good there.

He adjusted the choke, the idle screw was missing which he replaced and then turned the idle up.

He was going to do the water pump but couldn't get the housing to seperate and he would have needed to heat it up to do so but didn't have the torch with him to do it.

He checked it out running and said she is pumping water and its not overheating so he was ok to leave it like that until after the trip. He did put a little chip in the driveshaft housing :-[ trying to seperate the gear case but siliconed over this and it is sealed now but what can you do!

He changed case oil, fuel filter, cleaned the carbies, checked the stator was charging the battery, put new plugs in, lubed steering etc etc.

The only thing he recommended was the following

1) Give the fuel tank a complete clean out, which I will do but will put I am going to put a new tank in it and keep the old one as a reserve tank and fit one of those filter things that was previously mentioned
2) The steering trailing arm needs replacing, its steering fine just the wrong trailing arm was put on it and it will make the steering easier. It seems the motor turn all the way when you turn the steering wheel full lock to the left but turning the steering wheel full lock to the right the motor only turns about half way
3) Possibly a second battery to run the accessories and not to flatten the battery

Other than that she is good to go in the bucket tomorrow once the silicon dries on the chip in the case and the fuel tank is replaced.

He said once in the bucket / out on the water if she is idling to low to turn the idle screw up a quater turn until it is set right.

Other than that he said the motor was fit and healthy and should be right for the trip and that I should call him when I have finally caught some fish on it and let him know ;D!!!!

So thanks to everyone for making me persevere with it and for all the help through this mess!!!

As I said I have learnt alot and that is invaluable in experience so thanks to all of you for sharing the knoweldge and getting us to this point!

So I will hopefully get through the season with this one :)!!!!!

Will keep you posted with the on water test results and the collapsible bucket escapade and hopefully a video or two.....

[cormorant]

You need to check that the temperature alarm works on your motor if it has one and if not you need to keep a very close eye on your telltail coming from the motor to ensure it is being cooled. It usually takes a fair while for a lower unit or shaft to seize so that in itself means the impeller may not be in the best condition or the person that installed it didn't lubricate teh correct bits as impellers deteriorate with age or being left unused. Note any little things that don't seem right with motor and the electrics on the boat so you an get them seen to.

Get out there and use it now in a local waterway and get a feel for it so you know what to expect over the holiday period.

Double check all your safety equipment as neglected boats often come with neglected equipment.

be safe and introduce your family to enjoyable boating slowly

[dadstinny]

Cheers mate, will keep an eye on it all. If that's the only thing I need to deal with when we get back / up there then I will be happy :)!

All safety gear is from our tinnie so is quite newish!!! Just going to put in a 27 meg radio until I do my VHF course for some peace of mind.

Only question I had is oars, they are needed but how in the heck does one row a half cabin boat? Is it even possible?

Will be taking her out tomorrow after the silicone dries and hopefully I can sort the steering out so fingers crossed but its looking good.

[Noelm]

oars are a pretty silly requirement in some cases, a tiny useless paddle will also pass inspection, even though you would never row/paddle the thing anywhere for too long.

[cormorant]

Ya can't row . It is a dumb regulation - my feeling has always been that if it can't be effectively rowed then it should have a auxillary motor.. One person either side paddling is the truth of it. Unless it is a tinny we have always had long handled paddles as they are easier to store and possibly usefull if stuck on a millpond and we were 20 feet from shore

Go straight for the VHF.

[albey]

I have a 5m again which you cant row,so to satisfy regulations I stow a pair of collapsible oars,they go in my forward hatch with the collapsible bucket,cast net etc etc totally out of the way and utterly useless.

[Fed]

Twp people with paddles can't row my 5.2 boat against anything.
Well done dadstinny now you can hopefully build some confidence in the motor.

[dadstinny]

Howdy all, so was looking at the steering tonight and when you turn the steering wheel all the way to the left it stops but the motor is only turned about 1/2 way compared to the right.

If you yank on the wheel a little bit, you hear like a clunk sound and the steering wheel then moves about a further 5 cm now giving you about 3/4 of a full turn of the motor.

Its like a knot in the steering, you turn it a certain amount and it stops as if you have reached your limit. Give it a bit of a yank and it lets you move the full another revolution to the left.

Does this sound like the steering control box is buggered or the steering arm.

Was going to remove the steering arm and then turn it full lock and see if knots up to determine if it is the arm as the mechanic suggested.

[tunaticer]

Is it a Morse cable or pulley cable system??
If it is a morse cable check the cable shape when you reach that point where you have to nudge it harder, is there a tight bend accentuating the problem somewhere? Unlikely to be in the control box where the problem is.

[dadstinny]

Hey mate, its morse cable mechanical steering!

I will check the cable and see, the mechanic did say he thought the trailing arm or steering arm I think its called looked wrong so I am suspect on this.

I will check the cable and if no luck finding anything with this I will disconnected the trailing arm temporarily and see if it is the trailing arm.

When disconnecting the trailing arm do you need to turn the steering to dead centre before disconecting it so it goes back together correctly?

[Fed]

Just remember which hole it was in the tiller arm coming out of the motor.

I'd disconnect the drag link then move the motor by hand from left to right to make sure there's no tight spots in it.
Then full lock your steering wheel to the right & left to make sure there's no tight spots in it.
Then at full left lock check the position of the steering tube where it exits the tilt tube.
Then at full right lock measure the position of the steering tube to see how much it moved.
Halve that distance and set your steering wheel at that.
Centralize your motor and see if the drag link holes line up.
It could even be that the PO changed the tiller hole which would make the drag link either too long or too short.
Having said that I bet there's 1000's of boats running around that aren't quite right and having no problems at all.

[Noelm]

yep, it is pretty common to have more "lock" one way, sometimes it is just bad luck, sometimes it is just put together wrong, sometimes it is something faulty, the general way to do it is, disconnect the motor end, turn the wheel lock to lock and count the turns, then move wheel to centre postion and then move the motor to the centre position and see how it all lines up, some boats have an adjustment to allow for this, some do not, you may need a longer or shorter drag link to get the desired result. (or put up with it)

[dadstinny]

hahaahaha, might just need to learn to approach the boat ramp / wharf on the side that has good steering.

It just makes for an interesting experience when you can't get full lock left when you need it :)!!!!

The mechanic had a quick look at and said the drag link is not the right one but just didn't want to replace it without being sure.

Ill try the methods mention out tonight...

I am going to be doing a bucket run test tonight to so I can prep for the water test on Saturday as I have new fuel tank, lines and petrol now!!!

[Fed]

Both ways work out the same mate, there's nothing tricky about it just plain old common sense.

[dadstinny]

Ok had a look at stering and it still has a knot.

So close to the splash well with the trailing arm disconnected ifcthe trailing arm would extend that far it would be fine.

I think its as the mechanic suggesred they have put the wrong trailing arm on.

I am going to reset it as suggested and see how it goes.

Otherwise ill look for a replacement arm.

[Fed]

I'd disconnect the drag link then move the motor by hand from left to right to make sure there's no tight spots in it.
Then full lock your steering wheel to the right & left to make sure there's no tight spots in it.
So where's the knot, in the motor or in the steering?

[dadstinny]

In the steering, full lock turning the wheel towards the right the extension tube stops about 5cm from the end of the splash well.

Give it a bit of shove and it keeps going all the way to touching the splash well.

You would probably not want it to go any closer to the splash well anyhow but the trailing arm is not the right size. Its way to long even when you have the steering about 5cm from the splash well wall the trailing arm does not meet the bracket on the motor its about 7cm's off.

Moving the motor gives no knot just the steering.

[dadstinny]

Its alive!!!!

Water test went quite well.....

The pee hole keeps blocking up, my mechanic gave technical support at 8.30am on the water by phone :)

He advised to unblock it and give it a good run and it should clear soon but he suspects its got some build up in it that needs to be cleared.

I used a pin to clear and it started "peeing" again :)

Its pumping plenty of water out the back, the pee hole is working just blocks every now and again.

Aside from that she is running great, like a whole new boat.....

Holiday is on, thanks to everyone who helped get the suzuki back into fine form and gave support throughout the thread the video of us crossing botany bay this morning shows how much power a forum like this can have to get people back on the water and fishing!!!!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8tH0jdGF-8&feature=youtu.be

[STUIE63]

thanks for coming back and letting us know how it went . it is real good to hear all's well

[Gon Fishun]

Sounds sweet mate. Congrats on your perseverance.8-)

[Roughasguts]

Get some thick fishing line and run down the pee hole while the engine is running to help clear the crud out. He he sounds good ! you could trim the motor down just a tad to get the nose down a bit more and the bum out the hole in the water! of course that will give you more speed and rev's. ;D;D

Cheers

[Fed]

I don't think you need that new coil pack.