replacing floor boards - form ply

[timddo]

Ok. After years of - It's on my to do list , i finally took the floor boards out that needed replacing. (:'() . The deckie put a hole in his corner ( FAT Bast...d) ::)

Now i have notice that there is the Black form ply and Brown (F14) - Is there any difference or is it just like pink and blue fishing reels?

I will be treating the cut sides with Endure primer and sealer - as per instructions from a good Ausfisher.

However - i thinking of reusing the carpet as there is nothing wrong with it.???
I'm only replacing two floor boards for the moment but will work on others as i have time.

( too replace all my floor boards it likes 4 Sheets of ply 2.4x1.2 :o

The problem i have with carpet is i can' get the original colour for now??

Any more tips that i need to consider???

Will be using that Seally quick slap?????? cement aheasive

[lucee81]

I used form ply when i replaced the floor and the only advice is scuff up the black paint on it a bit as not much sticks to it, concreters use this wood when concreting (ie. a wall, box etc) so that the concrete does not stick to the wood. On a small piece just test the Glue. with an off cut of carpet, i found i had to scuff it up a bit before it stuck and i used the selley's, well actually i ended paying $60 to get an upholsterer to glue it all together for me in the end (the whole floor and seats etc) could have saved money on glue cause he used his own for that price.

[tunaticer]

I am about to replace my timber floorboards with 3mm ally thats carpetted top and strips glued under where it rests on the substructure, will reduce the weight by 2/3rds and never rot out again, currently on its 2nd set of boards.

[TheRealAndy]

WE had form ply in a boat at the yach club. Lasted about 10 years before it started to rot. I have been researching this lately cause I want to make a faux rendered block fence! Best bet is to use external grade ply, as it uses the waterproof glue same as marine ply with the only difference being that marine ply is garanteed not to have any internal flaws.

[leeroy1]

The only difference between normal(interior grade) and Marine ply is the glue that they use to form the ply.
If you want to save money get an exterior grade ply using marine grade glue and then seal all faces with a 2-pack polyurethane clear coat.
As mentioned the outer coat is applied for use in the building trade by concreters etc.
Depending on the spacing between the cross members on your floor you could probably go down to 15 or 12mm ply to reduce weight and cost.
This is what i have done after talking to our ply supplier and based on what they supply to boat builders.
Also contact cement will not stick properly over time to any surface that is to glossy or too smooth?(needs to be sanded with a rough grade sandpaper).

[sleepygreg]

I am not sure how many times I have answered this question......but here goes again. The difference between 'marine' grade ply and all other plys is that marine ply has NO core gaps, and usually has a hardwood exterior laminate. The same glue is used that is used on Form Ply, CD, BB, DD. Form ply has a glossy top laminate to perform its primary function.....release it from concrete that it has been used to 'form up'. Geeez im glad i dont have to deal anymore with the f'wits that insist on going through a pack of form ply looking for a sheet with no 'scratches' on it. (but if its imported from china....all bets are off...they dont recognise ASA....though they have the stamps)

[timddo]

The form ply i puchased cost $69.30 for a 12mm sheet, Bunnings only stock the 17 mm at $72.

After using the rotten ply as a template i cut the form ply into the sections. I notice it is joined by 2 hardwood layers and a tin layer of what looks like pine. It's solid and heavy. The only thing holding the board together was the carpet.

Looks like another trip to pickup another piece of ply to do another section of the boat.

Hopefully it should last 10 + years.

I have been thinking of ali for a while now ( checker plate) But decided not to. Heat is a major factor and it would still need to be carpeted.

More money down the drain:-[.

[lucee81]

The form ply i puchased cost $69.30 for a 12mm sheet, Bunnings only stock the 17 mm at $72.

After using the rotten ply as a template i cut the form ply into the sections. I notice it is joined by 2 hardwood layers and a tin layer of what looks like pine. It's solid and heavy. The only thing holding the board together was the carpet.

Looks like another trip to pickup another piece of ply to do another section of the boat.

Hopefully it should last 10 + years.

I have been thinking of ali for a while now ( checker plate) But decided not to. Heat is a major factor and it would still need to be carpeted.

More money down the drain:-[.

Have you thought about putting a fiberglass resin over the wood instead of carpet.. i seen a mates boat with this after i had already replaced mine.. itr is what im doing next time. keeps the water out alot better than carpet as well. not too sure of the cost but they do spray it on instead of hand applied so it cant be to labour intensive..

[timddo]

I'm actually trying to cut down cost as replacing the boards as it is getting expensive

Retail price

1. 2X form ply sheets $140
2. Sika Contact ahesive $50
3. Wood preserver $120
4. Carpet $80 - Reuse old carpet to match the colour.
5. Stainless steel screws?????.

[Dignity]

If you want to save money get an exterior grade ply using marine grade glue and then seal all faces with a 2-pack polyurethane clear coat..

Doesn't this defeat the purpose of cheapness. Last time I pried 2 pack it wasn't worth the difference.

[cormorant]

WE had form ply in a boat at the yach club. Lasted about 10 years before it started to rot. I have been researching this lately cause I want to make a faux rendered block fence! Best bet is to use external grade ply, as it uses the waterproof glue same as marine ply with the only difference being that marine ply is garanteed not to have any internal flaws.


Andy - fibre cement board ( won't warp if supported well) is the go for rendering or use acrylic paint / render. Can lay it out flat and use the concrete templates and if you know a driveway sprayer just a quick change of mix and colour in the airless sprayer. A sealer coat if there is grafitti about to make it easier to remove.

As for ply. Check the stampings on it not just the lable on the bay it came from. Lots of sub grade ply out there.

There are guys doing ply encapslated by epoxy that they use for caravan sides . As it is vac formed it should last a long time structurally.