Oils aint Oils

[the baker]

hello to you all,

Got one question on 4stroke oil is it worth spending extra dollars on Yamalube oil
or is there some others that are worth trying and a bit cheaper.
I would like to hear what you are using and is doing the job.

Thanks Dave

[Spaniard_King]

Here you go, start reading

http://www.nmma.org/certification/certification/oil/fc-w.aspx

[Dan5]

hello to you all,

Got one question on 4stroke oil is it worth spending extra dollars on Yamalube oil
or is there some others that are worth trying and a bit cheaper.
I would like to hear what you are using and is doing the job.

Thanks Dave

I found the yamalube price comparable to a good engine oil in price anyway...........i just went with the yammie gear.

I used to use Penrite hpr50 in my older df70 4strk suzi with no trouble tho.....but it's not a "cheap" oil either.

Dan

[the baker]

Thanks Spaniard King & Dan

[trip01]

Found this penrite semi synth that I am interested in for my Yam F60.

http://www.motofluid.com/product/marine-outboard-four-stroke-engine-oil

And gear oil.

http://www.motofluid.com/product/marine-outboard-gear-oil?utm_source=getprice&utm_medium=cpc


Would like to buy locally as freight is $$.

Kind Rgds
Dave

[Spaniard_King]

Found this penrite semi synth that I am interested in for my Yam F60.

http://www.motofluid.com/product/marine-outboard-four-stroke-engine-oil

And gear oil.

http://www.motofluid.com/product/marine-outboard-gear-oil?utm_source=getprice&utm_medium=cpc


Would like to buy locally as freight is $$.

Kind Rgds
Dave

Does Yamaha specify semi synthetic for your engine??? you may void warranty if not

[Si]

Here you go, start reading

http://www.nmma.org/certification/certification/oil/fc-w.aspx

hey mate, thats a fair bit if reading. you got a shortened version? I couldnt find anythng in there that it was worth spending extra dollars on Yamalube oil. i most likely missed it.

[Noelm]

I guess to be fair, the difference in cost for genuine oil over "cheaper" stuff is not a real big deal when you consider you only change it every 100 hours (or there abouts) to look to save $20 over those hours maybe false economy "IF" something does happen to fail, now I am not for one minute suggesting the genuine Yamaha/Quicksilver/whatever oil is better than some other name brands, but for the difference in price, you have to weigh up the real difference over all that running time and decide if it is worth it, a new motor is a big dollar item, no two ways about it, so do what you feel 100% comfortable with (in my opinion)

[Stik-ugly]

Spaniard I have a 1999 40 Merc 4 stroke which is a Yamaha power head and last service I used 10w30 Yamalube .I prefer to use slightly heavier oils in my engines. Can you see any dramas moving up to the 20 W 40 in the Yamalube or stick with what I have been using?

[Stuart]

Going up in oil weight wont offer more protection but it will rob you of some HP.

[Spaniard_King]

Wont be any Issues with using the 20W40 some Merc/Yammy powerheads specify 25w-50

Really cant see it robbing you of any HP either, yoiu might get me interested in that if you use 90W oil:-X

[Stuart]

Garry,

I’m not insulting your intelligence as an outboard mechanic mate but thicker oil will always requires that bit more power to drive the oil pump and to push it through the oil galleries and bearings. While I have seen plenty of tests and dyno results on V8’s and straight sixes in car engines I haven’t seen any done on a 4 stroke outboard. I do suspect it would be much the same result though. The difference between thick and thin oil isn’t all that big but there certainly is a difference in performance. In an outboard I would always run the suggested oil weight that the manufacturer specifies.

Stu

[Mudlicker]

Found this penrite semi synth that I am interested in for my Yam F60.

http://www.motofluid.com/product/marine-outboard-four-stroke-engine-oil

And gear oil.

http://www.motofluid.com/product/marine-outboard-gear-oil?utm_source=getprice&utm_medium=cpc


Would like to buy local
ly as freight is $$.
Kind Rgds
Dave

I find the word semi synthetic is a misnoma , synthetic oil base is made from mineral oil .With any mineral oil the base is all the same , and then the manufacturer adds a package which brings it up to a standard , with yamalube i think it is a TC 3 standard which is older than the current standard . if you decide to go with a diifferent oil just make sure it meets or exceeds the standards required by the manufacturer.As for brand well thats a personal choice I guess if different brands meet the same standard then you have the same oil , the difference may be in the cleanliness , never assume that new oil is clean .As for synthetic it is more hydroscopic , ( soaks up moisture ) maybe an issue for marine use .
hope this helps a bit

[FishHunter]

For starters car oils wont have the same anti corrosion additives a marine oil has.
Higher viscosity oils are harder to pump and take longer to get around a motor on a cold start, never discount the amount of power it takes to pump oil through a motor. Try turning a oil pump by hand to build up oil pressure the force needed will shock you.

The newer 0w30 oils were designed exactly for the above reason

[Stuart]

Yep already know that.

[Spaniard_King]

Garry,

I’m not insulting your intelligence as an outboard mechanic mate but thicker oil will always requires that bit more power to drive the oil pump and to push it through the oil galleries and bearings. While I have seen plenty of tests and dyno results on V8’s and straight sixes in car engines I haven’t seen any done on a 4 stroke outboard. I do suspect it would be much the same result though. The difference between thick and thin oil isn’t all that big but there certainly is a difference in performance. In an outboard I would always run the suggested oil weight that the manufacturer specifies.

Stu


hence My answer to the above Question 20w40 falls within them manufacturers spec