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melony
28-07-2011, 12:31 AM
Hey Guys

I am about to start to re-wire my tinnie (goodbye spaghetti) and i have seen a lot of people using Buss bar's and i have a couple of questions in regards to this.

things to be re-wired are, Sounder, Nav lights, Livebait tank, Livewell, LED Lights, Bilge Pump & Spot Light.

Question 1
Is the postive buss bar "jumpered" from 1 wire socket to the next ???.

Question 2
Would the same apply to the negative buss bar as well ???.

Question 3
The unit i was thinking of are these below are they ok or is there a better option ???.

Any suggestions of diffirent idea's would be great.

Pics of others wireing setups would be awesome.

Thanks Tony.

http://media.supercheapauto.com.au/bcf/images/116499.jpg

Feral
28-07-2011, 05:46 AM
Yeah, you can do it that way, or you can in effect use a fuse block for the positive side to do the same (no Bus bar, the fuse block serves the same purpose). Basically good size cable coming from battery to either the fuse block or bus bar, then equipment appropriate from there to the individual units.

Make sure you use wire thick enough to supply power all along the bus bar as you jump from one to the next. (IE dont bring in 40 amp cable to supply the power, then use 5 amp cable to jump the power down the bar, )

I also like a fuse near the battery. I use those auto reset 50 amp ones. (I run 60 amp cable from battery to bus bars and fuse block) Basically just insurance against a dead short.

You might run several bus bars / fuse block combo's if your running a few different things at different points of the boat so you dont run to much wire. IE put one pair near the battery and one pair at the other end of the boat, so you only running two cables the full length of the boat for power.

PADDLES
28-07-2011, 07:45 AM
g'day melony, that stuff you've got pictured isn't busbar, they're tunnel terminals. if you're going to use them you you'll just need to "buswire" across the back of the terminals and then drop each individual circuit out of the bottom. may i suggest an easier and neater way would be to just buy a piece of bar, it'll have all the holes tapped out and connection screws all ready to go. don't forget to protect each circuit with a fuse.

thelump
28-07-2011, 07:46 AM
Mate the picture you have there is a terminal strip not a Bus Bar. You would need to bus it up yourself. You can buy positive and negative (different colour only) bus bars that you would run a main wire from your battery thus livening up all ports. I just rewired my Yalta craft and used a positive and negative bus bar under my dash and then another negative behind my switch panel. The idea being the things that run from your switch panel i.e lights, bilge, tank pump etc can be wired straight to behind that panel and are easier to keep neat. The positive of each cable goes to the switch panel and the negative to the negative bus bar near the panel. Just goin back a few steps once you have the main wire to your bus bars take a good size negative wire between the 2 negative bus bars and take the main wire from the switch panel to your positive bus bar. The sounder etc wires straight to the bus bars with an inline fuse (radio as well)

Hope this helps.

Please note that with a tinny and depending on the setup you may not need the extra negative bar. It just made my job neater.

Cheers Jason

ozscott
28-07-2011, 10:08 AM
Mate as above you dont have a bus bar there and yep would need to jumper each one which is not ideal in my view. The bus bar will give you the ability to stack up more than one circuit per screw and over time as you accumulate more electrical stuff this is a good thing.

I run everything from my bus bars except my anchor winch that runs straight from the battery and has its own breaker in the switch.

I ran 5-6mm (cant recall now) from the dual batt switch up front to the bars and then from there dual core to everything. I recently built up new switch box with its own bus bar arrangement behind the driver's seat because it controls lights for fishing and I wanted it to be accessible to me when fishing. It has a main wire fuse running to it and then each circuit is fused from there also.

Bus bars are cheap from chandlers.

Cheers mate

timddo
28-07-2011, 10:34 AM
Cheaper at JayCar

Angla
28-07-2011, 05:00 PM
This is the better type of bussbar. Stainless steel and tinned copper is the sort of materials you could be looking for to give longevity in a saltwater environment


http://www.marine.com/blue-2301-busbar-gang-common-p-2446.html

Cheers
Chris

melony
28-07-2011, 05:27 PM
Hey Guys

Firstly thanks for all your input and advice whilst looking through my whitworths catalouge I found these power post (see below) would they be a better product to use or am I best to stick with a bus bar.

Also thanks to the guys that clarified the original device I planned on using is not suitable.

Input on the power post would be great

Thanks Tony

https://www.whitworths.com.au/products/33495_lg.jpg

Jarrah Jack
28-07-2011, 05:36 PM
If you go through Opti's thread on his formula 233 you'll see some very neat wireing to give you a guide. Things like using tinned wire and the right crimps help a lot.

ozscott
28-07-2011, 09:52 PM
Depends on what room you have Tony and what configuration you want. I haven't seen these - should be called a busround :). Cheers

PADDLES
29-07-2011, 07:20 AM
g'day again melony, that round doover will do the job ok but may not be as neat as the piece of bar with all the circuit wires pointing in the same direction. some of your loads will require switching and some won't (ie. sounder, gps, radio don't require control) do your wires to these devices already have fuse holders? can you get to them easily? maybe look at a using a pre-made switch panel or fuse panel, it'll combine your busbar +24VDC commoning, circuit protection and also switch controls in the one panel and might work out cheaper and easier and take up a bit less real estate. if you've already got all the switches and controls installed on your dash then look at a fuse panel that will combine commoning and protection. try to get something with a readily available type of fuse (i personally like the plastic blade type) so that you can replace them at pretty much any servo.

No Fear
29-07-2011, 08:48 PM
Mate, if you can wait until next weekend, I will show you a pic of my new wiring that Pete (aka Grand_Marlin) is completing next week.
It is for a 6 metre boat but will include a buss bar and all the electronics you have mentioned (plus a few extra)
Or you could just do what I did and drop it on Pete's front lawn and get him to do it!!!

melony
29-07-2011, 10:28 PM
Hey No Fear

I would love to see some pics of Grand Marlins work as I know he does an impressive job, So I am looking forward to seeing them.

Paddles, I agree with what you said, I think I will stick to the bus bar and not the round bus as Ozscott has now called it LOL.

Jarrah Jack Thanks for the heads up with Opti's thread some great pics and info there.

Thanks again for everyones comments and input

Tony