View Full Version : Cruise Craft Reef Raider with origianl 87 6 cylinder 115 Mariner? Thoughts/input??
malby
24-07-2011, 09:36 PM
Hi all,
I am currently seriously looking at getting a Cruise Craft Reef Raider with an original Mariner 115 6 cylinder 2 stroke engine.
This boat has a pristine/original hull with no soft spots and good transom etc, full covers/clears, is a 1 owner, has a new looking Dunbier Trailer (bought in 04 but you'd think it was new) but...
It has an 87(yet to confirm but will be that or 86) model Mariner 115 6 cylinder 2 stroke engine which came with the boat. It has though been regularly serviced with receipts from a local dealer and started every 2 weeks for the duration of its life (according to the owner). This is an older style mix the fuel yourself type engine ( I currently have a blue stripe merc 50 1980 model and have had a great run with that). I should be able to get a print out of every service it has had for the last 10 or so years. To look at it, you would think it is almost new, as with the hull and trailer.
Other perks are:
an 80 litre under floor tank,
an electric winch
a Koeden CVS 106 sounder? Not sure if these are a perk as its very quite.
I plan to get it all fully tested this week.
Cost: under $14000
Just wanting some feedback on this setup for all that was mentioned in my last post re Seafarer Viking vs V Sea.
Also: if I do get it, what major servicing would people suggest I do to bring it up to top speed?
PADDLES
24-07-2011, 09:45 PM
hi malby, even though it'd be a great boat, i'm going to be brutal here and say that the motor is worth next to nothing in the purchase price of that boat. even if it's a great motor, add up the value of the rest of the boat and the trailer and if it's not more than $14k then think long and hard about what you're buying. the trailer would be maybe worth $2-3k so that means the hull/fittings would have to be worth more than $11k to you to be worth it. at the end of the day it's a boat with a 25 year old motor.
malby
24-07-2011, 09:49 PM
No probs. Be as brutal as you want. I am looking for some genuine feedback. When you say the motor is worth nothing I know where you are coming from. I am just thinking though, that is will do for me if it comes up trumps after tests etc.??
sleepygreg
24-07-2011, 10:49 PM
bloody amazing how values go for boats. I bought one of these new in '86, but with a 90hp evinrude vro. though i got the beefed up dual axle trailer (towed the thing between eden and coffs harbour and all points in between). total brand new cost was $14,500. They are an amazing hull, solid as a brick dunny, probably the most solid transom an any 5m boat I have seen, though they are a heavy hull - especially in the rear end. I had a custoom made kill box incorporating tackle lockers and padded top made to fit slightly forward of amidships, and had a second battery installation put in under the front - I wont call them bunks lets call them sheltered seats. I also had the fuel tank moved futher forward to balance it out. Now keep in mind 50% of my fishing was done solo offshore and I am 5'8" and in those days weighed in at about 70kg, and the rest of the time my main deckie was my sister - same height 55kg. so not a lot of weight happening up front. with all the balancing done re fit out and weight distribution - it remains one of my all time favourite seagoing/offshore fishing boats in that size range.....and we got 35 knots out of it in calm waters with full tanks, full box, and the crap load of gear that always went on a fishing trip. Had many trips back from the Peak to Botany or Port Hacking in nasty southerly busters and never felt unsafe. If I had my choice between the v-sea, viking, and the reefraider.....I would go reefraider every day of the week - and yes I have fished a lot out of v-seas and vikings - they are also great hulls - but the cc just felt more solid and was a dryer boat.
On the package you are looking at - I would be thinking the price is a little over the top considering the age of the engine, as I would be thinking of repowering with something like a 90 zuke or 4stk yammie - the hull will cope with the weight - they were rated to 140 from memory. and mine coped ok with a custom made live bait tank in the slopwell that held 60lt water.
The cons of the boat are - they can be a pig on the drift if you have a bimini and full clears happening.
Cheers
Greg
Jarrah Jack
24-07-2011, 11:18 PM
Hello again Malby..When I brought my 16 ft Haines two years back it had a '85 115 yami on it. Frightened me how much fuel it used 1 ltr a k so I put it on ebay and got 4.2 k for it. I didn't expect that much but got lucky.
Good boat the reef raider.
Malby,
If the engine is nice and clean and is a good runner I would put a value of about 2K on it.
If you think about someone with an older boat that has blown his 115hp engine, what can he get his hands on to replace it with quickly and cheaply? A new motor will be out of the question for many people and for 2K a good running replacement is money well spent.
Be good to see some pics of the whole rig to give a better valuation but the price is probably OK overall and consistent with average pricing for such a rig. Some negotiating could be in order due to being the off season.
I have noticed of late on here and other boating forums that there seems to be some weird thing occuring where carby 2 stroke engines are being considered junky rubbish. And that the new technology engines are the ONLY thing to own.
Likewise there seems these days to be a radical over emphasis on the fuel economy of an engine. Have a massive number of accountants Australia wide joined the boating game or something????;D;D
I wonder if this over the top fuel economy emphasis is placed on all aspects of boating? I mean, those that are so concerned about fuel economy, are they also incredibly concerned about the cost of the bait, the ice for the esky, the best price for the slab of beer, run all over town to save $5 on their rod or reel or terminal tackle purchases etc and so on??
If it all checks out ok, then get it for 14K or less if you can and go out and enjoy your boat with its 2 stroke tower of power and have FUN, coz thats all that counts.
As far as fuel goes - yep, it goes in the tank and gets burnt by the engine and thats as much thought in my opinion that needs to go into fuel.....
Cheers and toss up some pics if you can.
malby
25-07-2011, 06:56 AM
Thanks sleepygreg. I plan to only pay $12000 and you would absolutely love this original condition model. I am actually 6.6" and weigh 70 kg so similar short and light person. The guy who owned it did outside fishing, scuba diving and general skiing etc and loved it. Is in his 70's now and time to let her go. I would get rid of the clears etc and just leave the bimini on most fishing days. What do you mean about them being a pig on the drift? The front windscreen is crazed so would need to replace that which could cost some. As for fuel costs ppl are commenting on I will see how I go affording it but with a mate on board and splitting costs I figure a run out to Moreton and back may cost $50-$70? What do you reckon?
malby
25-07-2011, 07:06 AM
695276952869530
Wow mate looks like a gem....very retro.......get yourself a nice mint cond HX Kingswood wagon to tow her around and you'll have the set LOL.
Looks like someone has had a secret hiding away in their shed for a long time.
Dan
finga
25-07-2011, 07:26 AM
I have a 5m Bertie with the 90hp inline six Merc. (basically the same motor).
The motor is a beauty. Plenty of power when you needed it and if you just cruised along at around the 3200rpm mark we got around 40km across the ocean for about 25-30 litres of fuel.
The biggest worry was the exhaust fumes when those motors are cold. Nearly put you off your cuppa tea they would and we tried different brands of oils.
Personally I'd be offering a lot less as it's an old outfit (but a good outfit).
I'd be looking at offering 6-$9,000 or even less if I could fault it at all. But I'm a tight @rse
Things to ponder if the motor and hull are good.
Wiring....might work but for how long and how is it bodged up to get it going. Best to rip out and start again-$1,000 up. Best to assume a rewire is needed for something of that age.
Electronics.....who knows how old the electronics package is ie radios, sounder GPS lights?? Best to allow to replace the lot.
Battery or batteries....allow $400-$500 to replace two of the suckers
Age of canopy and it's stitching.....may look OK now but how brittle is the canopy material and how rotted is the stitching? It may look OK now but what about after it's been towed a few times at 100km/hr up the freeway and had some flapping happening? Cost...$??
And the list goes on for things that may fail soon after buying if it hasn't been on the water for a while (and they would fail if I brought it)
Windscreen...$???
Steering....$?? (probably old and stiff or buggered if not used or serviced well all the time by now)
Those motors had troubles with the insulation on the wires inside it.
The insulation dropped off or split all the time. Sometimes it's easy to find the buggered wire but usually a complete rewire was required.
WD40 was very popular to be sprayed everywhere around under the cowl on motors of this vintage. WD40 destroyed the insulation on the wires. Grab a wire near a heat source and bend and bend and bend it to see if the insulation cracks or breaks.
Insulation breaking down did not necessarily stop the motor but it could and it could make them run funny.
finga
25-07-2011, 07:32 AM
Wow mate looks like a gem....very retro.......get yourself a nice mint cond HX Kingswood wagon to tow her around and you'll have the set LOL.
Looks like someone has had a secret hiding away in their shed for a long time.
Dan
HZ would be better....and it's in my shed :)
As an example...your all round white light is illegal how it is (may not be a problem but you could be booked for it...but new boats have illegally placed all round white light from new too) and what sort of spotlight is that one it and how is it mounted. It may have all stainless bits in it but those lights most commonly came with just cad. plated bolts and fittings and would last about 2 weeks in the salt.
All in all looks like a winner though :)
PADDLES
25-07-2011, 08:27 AM
yep, it looks fantastic, and that's the way to buy older stuff, off old roosters that look after it. full credit to the old bloke it looks like new. my issue with the motor is not that it's an old technology motor, it's more that it's 25 years old and corrosion stops for no man. the previous owner could have come up with some genius method of slowing it down, but it's only a matter of time before there's a corrosion issue i reckon. that's why i think the motor has veru little value and the price is a smidgin too high, put it this way i'd be thinking in the high teens to low twenties for that boat with a newer technology motor a few years old. i reckon finga's bang on the money with his value of $6-9k, you'd go $9-10k if the motor checks out in real good condition. remember that the current market is good for buyers not sellers.
Noelm
25-07-2011, 09:19 AM
the motor has gone for 25years, and could well go for another 25 (or blow up first trip) the old tower of power was a very resilient engine and could take a ton of abuse without missing a beat (all the Abb divers used them) but as mentioned, it is still 25 years old and been used in salt water, I would reckon buy it with repower in mind, and if it goes for another 25 years, good luck, if it goes for 2 years, then so be it.
finga
25-07-2011, 09:28 AM
At least with to old tower of power you can take the jackets off and have a bo-peep for corrosion.
If the baffle isn't corroded and there's no corrosion on the sides of the cylinders then the likelyhood is everything is dunky-dory.
The plates are supposed to be removed, cleaned and resembled every 4 years if I remember. Ours were done every 12 months so I'd notice any difference at all.
It's a relatively easy job to check the water jackets on them.
Top and bottom seals should have been changed on this one as well. If I remember they should be done every 4 or 5 years too
Check the receipts to see when they were done last and that could be used as an indicator as to how thorough the services were done.
Jarrah Jack
25-07-2011, 10:38 AM
I love the condition of the boat, much the same as my Haines when I brought it.
I think I may have touched BM's nerve there about fuel use. My decision had just as much to do with range as the boat only had a 25 ltr tank. I tripled my range by changing to a 4 banger. What size tank has the boat got?
Finga brought up some good points about the wireing and steering. I'd also be checking the underfloor tank if it has one.
I love the condition of the boat, much the same as my Haines when I brought it.
I think I may have touched BM's nerve there about fuel use. My decision had just as much to do with range as the boat only had a 25 ltr tank. I tripled my range by changing to a 4 banger. What size tank has the boat got?
Finga brought up some good points about the wireing and steering. I'd also be checking the underfloor tank if it has one.
Nope, all fine JJ. It's a general observation across several boating forums spanning the last several years. It's a very dramatic change from the way boating has always been.
6-9K Finga? It would be a steal at that price!! As long as it checks out ok I think even 12K is quite ok buying. Retail value down here in Vic would be 15K or more in a yard.
I'm not near a computer to have a better look at those pics (only got phone screen) but there appears to be no rust on the tiller arm at all which for an old Merc is pretty amazing. I have a 20hr old 83 model Merc 115 here at present that looks brand new in every way but that engine looks super clean also.
Malby, pay to have an inspection done (or do yourself if capable) and if all checks out ok it looks to be a boat that will be a good purchase. I don't see you harming yourself at 12k.
Cheers
oldie
25-07-2011, 06:32 PM
12k is a bargain for that boat.
Steeler
25-07-2011, 06:48 PM
Those inline 6's and in particular the later ones with internal t/trim still bring between 2 - 2.5k.
Only 3 things really kill them off and one has been mentioned already.
1. Bottom crank seals, some people are just to lazy to check the bottom spark plug regularly. Much easier to get plug out with your back to the motor.Try it Finga you will see what i mean.
2. Quality of the fuels these days means back the timing off a degree or two.
3. Outright neglect.
Great motors and a healthy ones got a great crispy sound to it.
malby
25-07-2011, 07:08 PM
My mate whois a diesel mechanic just re-wired my Merc 50 blue stripe (nearly completely) and now it runs like a new engine. Yes and as an 1980 Merc it had started to break down badly. Cost was a fishing weekend with my mates on my boat...ouch. And I'd say he could prob do it again if required with (now) all of that experience. Yes all of your points are well taken. It has no GPS, an old sounder, and a buggered windscreen. Oh well, I'll see how I go with the master check this week.
krazyfisher
25-07-2011, 07:10 PM
looks like a great boat even worth running for a while than repower
malby
25-07-2011, 07:15 PM
Thanks Oldie. Good to see someone with a positive slant on things (not that I'm too worried about negative stuff as I fully asked for feedback). I'll know more after the full checkup later this week but after looking about for a few months I'm pretty happy with my choice thus far. The dealer that works on the motor says the guy's cars are all immaculate, just like his boat. They reckon the engine should come up trumps no probs.
malby
25-07-2011, 07:57 PM
Thanks Steeler. You sound like a bit of an expert on this. Do you reckon I should pay to get the head off and do (get them done by a dealer) the bottom crank seals inc exhaust gaskets and inner deflector. The dealer (head of the workshop) who is checking it out reckons I should not touch it until something starts to go amiss as taking them off often leads to broken bolts and all sorts of other trouble. I have been told/quoted $6-800 for the above job from a local (to me) Merc dealer. From what I can tell looking at receipts this was last done in 10/96. The receipt reads: supply and install oil seals, remove, supply and install new exhaust side plates and gaskets. Drain and fill gear lube/case (I think the word here is case or lube???), fit new drain plug gasket. Back then this cost him the grand sum of $275 parts included! It seems from the receipts that the powerhead was again removed in 98 to remove the exhaust sandwitch plate, cut out broken mounts, remove them and install new mounts and mount hardware. The base gasket was replaced and everything put back together again. The 2 Power Packs were replaced 18 months ago. A new steering cable was fitted in 98. The power tilt motor had the brushes replaced and other internal parts done in 04. Not sure how far down you have to go to do this? In 99 he had a trim fault and the engine was taken off the boat, the seized steering tube was removed and a new tube steering kit was added to the boat. They tested the power trim system (whatever that is??) and it was all sweet. This was done because the steering cable was replaced in 98 but obviously things kept stuffing up. Well that's a full run down of receipts I have seen so far. Seems pretty thorough but maybe I'll still need to do the lower unit etc. asap. What are your (and other people's) thoughts??
malby
25-07-2011, 08:14 PM
696776967869679696806968169682Thanks BM. I will post some more pics up so you can have a better look at things.
malby
25-07-2011, 08:20 PM
BM I am paying $260 to have a full inspection done (more mechanical - they will inspect the hull but are not fibreglass experts) and will know more later this week.
malby
25-07-2011, 08:32 PM
Thanks Finga. Have a look at my receipt/service run down. Not nearly as good as you suggest but has had a bit done on her.
malby
25-07-2011, 08:47 PM
Thanks JJack. It has an 80 litre standard (I think back then) tank and he has added a 30 litre back up one down aft in case you need it. Hopefully I could get out to deep tempest and back from Scarborough on this lot?? Trippled your range...wow! The mechanic at Yamaha the other dau told me 4 bangers only get about 20% better fuel consumption the 2's. Maybe he was comparing new 2's to new 4's? Hopefully this boat will get 40 ks for 30-40 litres of fuel too?
malby
25-07-2011, 08:53 PM
I'm not sure just how far they go in a 3 hour inspection but they do pull the leg off the motor they said. Will they get a look at the baffle and sides of the cylinders if they do this or not. Bottom seals have been done in 96 and 98 but no eveidence of the top ones being done from looking thus far?? Unless this would have been done when the power packs were replaced in 09?? Did you do this yourself? Is this a hard job for a mechanic as I have a mate who is not a boat mechanic but is a diesel one and pretty cluey. Maybe we could get a workshop manual?? How much for these are where do you get them?
Steeler
25-07-2011, 09:12 PM
Thanks Steeler. You sound like a bit of an expert on this. Do you reckon I should pay to get the head off and do (get them done by a dealer) the bottom crank seals inc exhaust gaskets and inner deflector. The dealer (head of the workshop) who is checking it out reckons I should not touch it until something starts to go amiss as taking them off often leads to broken bolts and all sorts of other trouble. I have been told/quoted $6-800 for the above job from a local (to me) Merc dealer. From what I can tell looking at receipts this was last done in 10/96. The receipt reads: supply and install oil seals, remove, supply and install new exhaust side plates and gaskets. Drain and fill gear lube/case (I think the word here is case or lube???), fit new drain plug gasket. Back then this cost him the grand sum of $275 parts included! It seems from the receipts that the powerhead was again removed in 98 to remove the exhaust sandwitch plate, cut out broken mounts, remove them and install new mounts and mount hardware. The base gasket was replaced and everything put back together again. The 2 Power Packs were replaced 18 months ago. A new steering cable was fitted in 98. The power tilt motor had the brushes replaced and other internal parts done in 04. Not sure how far down you have to go to do this? In 99 he had a trim fault and the engine was taken off the boat, the seized steering tube was removed and a new tube steering kit was added to the boat. They tested the power trim system (whatever that is??) and it was all sweet. This was done because the steering cable was replaced in 98 but obviously things kept stuffing up. Well that's a full run down of receipts I have seen so far. Seems pretty thorough but maybe I'll still need to do the lower unit etc. asap. What are your (and other people's) thoughts??
Not at all an expert just pulled down heaps of these things and quite often its one of those three issues that stopped it.
Money well spent and be sure they use genuine Merc seals, a few bob more but the ones you get from a bearing store just don't seem that good a fit. I think from memory there is enough space for three seals at the bottom.
Don't forget also to have that timing backed off just a couple of degrees or it will go through pistons.
There a bloody good motor and there is a mob in the states that pretty much specialize in fully rebuilding/conditioning these things back to showroom condition including paint and decals and retail them for about US $4500.00. such is there popularity and demand for good examples.
Put it this way if you don't want the motor i will let you store it here;D;)
Malby,
I wonder if this over the top fuel economy emphasis is placed on all aspects of boating? I mean, those that are so concerned about fuel economy, are they also incredibly concerned about the cost of the bait catch my own, the ice for the esky make my own in mums freezer, the best price for the slab of beer make my own moonshine, run all over town to save $5 on their rod or reel or terminal tackle purchases nah the internet is far quicker etc and so on?? even make my own fuel for the old GQ Patrol
I.
BM you picked me in one ;D
have to a be tight arse on the pension with a family (two teenage daughters) and a house mortgage ;)
cheers Murf
sleepygreg
25-07-2011, 11:21 PM
HI Malby,
What I mean by 'a pig on the drift' is that they have a high profile on the water and are more affected by wind than current, so you will need to play around with sea anchors etc. My comments about 4 bangers are more out of the fact that 2stk fumes make me crook when i am on the water.......took me a while to figure out that my seasickness was directly related to 2stk fumes. have never been crook fishing from a diesel powered or 4stk powered boat...of any size...but still get queezy when in a lumpy sea and get a whiff of 2stk fumes.
Mate - if you are launching at Scarby and heading to Tempest - that set up would p$ss it in. I had a 100 lt tank in mine - and used to do Greys Point to the Peak for a session on the kingies, then troll out wide for a couple of hours, then back to the peak for the afternoon bite of kingies, then head back in.......never had to go to the reserve tank I always carried. Thats probably equivalent to going to Deep Tempest, shooting up to Wide Cal, heading out to the 100m line for a troll, then back to shallow tempest for a drop before heading in.
That looks a cracker of a rig - if you can get it for about 11-12k your on a winner. If you get it - let me know when your going to put her in the drink - I want to check her out and bring back the memories. You can do heaps to these to pimp them.
Greg
malby
27-07-2011, 06:28 PM
Hi Greg it would be good to chat with you further about things as you are local and I'd appreciate some tips on pimping her. I have not done the PM thing or know much of how to do that. What is the best way to get in contact with you as I'd like to chat some more about the boat. Hopefully (all things being positive with the water test etc) I will pick her up this Saturday. Mal
oldie
27-07-2011, 07:02 PM
So did you buy the boat or still procrastinating? just remember its not a new boat mate 12k for a boat of that size and condition is fair price, so much rubbish out there for the same money, why not keep motor for while then sell and update the donk, the boat will last a long time if looked after and hold its value for sure.
I searched the net and found the boat online, so anyone out there looking for a quality cruise craft is now on the trail
Y-Not
27-07-2011, 07:44 PM
I am the proud and very happy owner of one of these beauties and have never regretting buying it. I have had it since 2002and repowered it in 2005 with a 90hp 3cyl merc. That is the one bad choice I made. I should have stuck with 115hp on the re-power despite what the mechanic told me.
The hulls are heavy but in sloppy seas that is a help in a boat of this size 12K...maybe a little high but still a damn good boat and if you can get a couple of years before re-powering with something new/newer than probable not to bad.
Hope this helps
malby
27-07-2011, 08:35 PM
My plan is to have the engine stripped down and fully checked over and go from there as to what to do with it. I have had a quinny fishabout 16 footer with a 50 blue stripe merc 80 model that still go's gr8 so based on that I may get more than a couple of years but not counting my chickens just yet. Will see how I go. Have you taken yours out to Moreton Island, Temepest/deep Tempest etc? If so how does she handle and how about in a serious Sea? Also petrol consumption?? What sort of fuel would I use (leaving Scarby) out to Moreton, fishing around for a bit and back to Scarborough?
malby
27-07-2011, 08:45 PM
So where are you based again Oldie? And what sort of boat have you got again? I remember you commenting on my bar boat quiz. Hopefully this boat should do the job through a bar ok? Re the purchase I am making steady progress with compression test and water test just around the corner. Re competition for purchase I reckon there's some pretty good deals out there at present and with all of the 'overpriced comments' I got on this thread I should not imagine I would get too much hurry up from others just yet.
malby
27-07-2011, 08:46 PM
Also meant to ask...how are they in a following Sea? Do they broach going down a swell or are they ok?
oldie
27-07-2011, 09:20 PM
the Cruise Craft will be fine for the bar due to the cuddy style and should be good vision too. Following sea trimmed right will be fine, much better than the fishabout as the flare seems to broach pretty heavily even going thru boat wakes. Though such a great old boat aren't they, i had a 13ft tiller steer fishabout when i was a young fella i fished the crap out of that boat!!
deckie
27-07-2011, 11:03 PM
Would be a terrific choice Malby...looks in great nick credit to the owner. Always been one of the best all round fishing rigs ever made here...not much it cant do. The fwd hatch is bigger than most and they made a reasonable attempt at helping with anchoring on cuddy's but the point in the floor makes it hard to get your feet fwd. Better than most though. Some foam cushioning on the anchor locker bulkhead helps. At least that hatch is a fair size and goes way fwd. Was a regular one at my local ramp for yrs i used to admire with the way he'd set it up...really versatile and practical with a capital C. He had a 9hp aux clamped next to a 115 evinrude from memory. Might be an option to go the old school aux option and just keep that donk going. Every chance its been perfectly maintained and last well, going by the look of the rig and trailer.
Someone will buy it. If its overpriced its not by much coz smart buyers pay a little premium for condition and history. Classic fishin boat in great nick at maybe 1/4 of new replacement value and does exactly the same thing ? Good find i reckon.
sleepygreg
28-07-2011, 02:21 AM
Mal they are fine in a following sea. Learn to trim correctly and have the weight distributed right and they can handle almost anything....in the hands of someone who knows what they are doing. I wouldnt go the auxiliary motor on the back though.....they are already arse heavy....anyway....would love to have a chat with you about the boat. If you can't figure out the pm thingy....give me a ring ......my phone number is 0407 010957. Not concerned about keeping it hidden - there are more than enough people on here who know who I am - I dont hide behind a fancy nic playing keyboard warrior.
Cheers
Greg
sleepygreg
28-07-2011, 02:21 AM
hmmmmmmmm - double post - well I'll be buggered!
Y-Not
30-07-2011, 07:15 PM
My experience is that they are fine in a following sea. Get the weight distributed nicely and they WILL handle anything the bay will throw at it (if you drive to match the conditions). As for an auxiliary motor FORGET IT NOW!! They are very tail heavy. A trip to Moreton and back heading out from Scarbough with a trip to shallow tempest and hutchies will normally work through the best part of 80 litres for me up to about 110 if I head to Deep tempest for the day. this is based on avg sort of conditions. If you get one of those rare glassed out trips all ofa sudden the fuel usage issues settle right down. I use about 13 to 15 litres an hour when cruising at 20-22 knots but mine is only 90HP. My boat is set up with 2 tanks 80 litre underfloor and an extra 60 litre under the outboard well. makes trimia bit tricky but run the 60 litre tank first and it improves as the tank empties out.
sleepygreg
31-07-2011, 01:10 AM
Sorry Mal, got your phone message but was tied up with a bit of crap happening. Will give you a ring Sunday some time....probably in the afternoon.
Greg
finga
31-07-2011, 07:38 AM
Is it in the shed?
You won't be sorry buying it and no matter what the price was it it is a good choice.
I have to admit that particular boat seems to be in amasing condition and is well worth a premium price.
Hopefully you'll get a clean bill of health for the motor and it'll be all systems go.
Did you have a water test?
Those old inline 6's have an amasing amount of torque. It's great if you want to pull kids around on a biscuit or cross bars.
I have found with ours that if we sit on about 3300 revs or so the motor just sings along.
We get about 35-40km's of ocean going for 25litres of premix fuel but if we use the throttle and load her up (like pulling skiers) and open the throttle we can hear the fuel go down the 3 carbi's.
Experiment with oil brands and try and steer away from the old school oils like Valvolene from Super Cheep. They smoke terribly and the stink first thing of a morning can nearly turn your wheetbix into burley.
Y-Not
31-07-2011, 07:48 PM
Its the OIL!!!!! and here I was thinking I had drunk to much the night before. I use Shell nautilus oil. I buy it in 20 litre? (need to check when I go to the shed next) drums from a distributor at Springwood. and your right I don't feel as sick in the belly from the fumes.
malby
31-07-2011, 10:28 PM
Just lost a massive post so will try again....Doh!
Yes I bought it and so now the proud owner of a CCraft Reef Raider 166 1985 model with 115 Mariner tower of power also 1985 model with internal tilt and trim!!!
So here's the run down on the engine which is the only real issue I can see tus far.
The PSI readings were: about 135 for the bottom 4 cylinders and 125 for the top 2. Hopefully within the ok range??
This was 'after' running it for about 5 mins which we did to just check out the tell tale again and put her in forward and reverse gear etc as could not do a water test due to ill health of the owner. Not sure if having run her for 5 mins would have made a difference to the PSI on the top 2???
It did have rust on the outside of the bottom plug but the inside was 'sweet as' with no little beads of water etc. My mate who was a mechanic for many years said the bottom 4 plugs looked the best when we removed them. ie clean etc.
There was also rust on some of the bolts at the bottom of the (I guess) head. If you stand at the back of the motor and look at the boat they were on the left side closest to the back and closest to the bottom and were more rusty as you went down. Only 4 of them were rusty (progressively worse as you went down the line) and I cleaned them up today and it was all surface rust though I could not really get to the bottom one properly.
I checked the gear oil and it was as black as the ace of spades so no milky substance indicating water etc. Also no iron filings like in mine whenever I open her up on my blue stripe 50.
I have removed the outer shell that sits on top of the motor and runs down the back of her protecting the plugs etc to get to these bolts and clean them up which I did with Inox and a tooth brush and they all look pretty good now. I have also Inoxed all bolts in prep for the big seals and gaskets job I am anticipating??
Are any outboard mechanics on here? If so should I try to remove the head bolts myself (photo's would be good here?? in the lead up to having them strip it down) and if so where are they? Also, what prep should I do more than spraying them with Inox?? I have already sprayed all the bolts I could see. The shell bolts were all pretty dam tight I'll tell you.
The old guy started the engine at nearly full revs and with the choke on full and then pulls it off and down asap.
The trailer is a Dunbier full roller trailer and is worth $4000 replacement and it looks like new! Only some surface rust on the wheel nuts. Amazing as its an 04 model. They must have hot dipped it??
The hull is also perfect! We swung on the motor with it in the horizontal position and the transom did not budge one mil! You can jump about on the floor and its solid as a rock!!
Just the Bimini needs a re-stich, the windscreen needs renewing (got a quote for $320 to do this) and may need a new sounder etc as the old one is a Koeden colour TV screen type version??!!
Only the engine to do and I'm thinking I'll get it fully specked up by a mechanic inc removing the power head and doing the gaskets, inner deflector and seals etc. Any thoughts from mechanics, ideas etc all welcome.
A very happy boat owner who finally took the plunge after years of looking/procrastinating etc
Anyone out there wanting a one off 16 foot Quinny Fishabout (only 100 made with wide coamings etc) with a Merc 50 Blue stripe that has 140 PSI reading right down all 4 cylinders...$4000 asking price with sounder, radio, ariel, spare wheel, good trailer, new bimini etc. ph. 54985075
malby
31-07-2011, 10:32 PM
Could you please send me a name and number and cost for these 20 litre drums. I'll be keen.
Jarrah Jack
31-07-2011, 11:32 PM
You've done Malby. Very hard to find such a good rig. Hope it lasts you for many years. I've got a 14 ft fishabout and the're a great and very cheap bit of kit too. You shouldn't have trouble selling it at that price.
sleepygreg
01-08-2011, 12:36 AM
Isnt it amazing how much info a personal chat can yield. Thanks for the call tonight Mal. From our discussion it sounds like you have landed an absolute perfect buy. The model you bought was the year prior to mine, with some slight differences - but the same hull config - just a few internal changes. I cant wait to see the rig. Will let you know who did the re-stitching on my bro in laws canopy as soon as I can. That trailer sounds like a cracker. The trailers that were sold as part of the 'package deals' when these were new, were way under spec for the boat (which has a much heavier dry weight than most other glass boats of that length), so that trailer contributes to the value of your purchase.
Greg
malby
01-08-2011, 07:02 AM
Thanks for the chat Greg. Very encouraging to talk to someone who has actually owned one of these rigs and can give me the low down. Speaking to an older fibergass guy at a repairs place at Caboolture last week he raved about CCrafts and esp the 80's models saying they did an excellent/solid job on the build. Just had to watch out for holes etc in the glass as they used Berni Board on the transom and floor...no probs though on this baby. Anyone out there with thoughts on a good Merc Mechanic close to Morayfield?? I was thinking of Cunninghams as they (the workshop manager) were very helpful on the phone in the lead up and gave me some solid advice etc.
Also if anyone knows anything about Koden colour sounders and what they are like this one is a CVS-106 and originally cost $1657 and was the bees knees. Apparently it works fine.
Well done on your purchase Malby sounds like you got a ripper,Proberbly nothing wrong with using the Koden sounder...colour video is still acceptable you don't have to have HD structure scan 100000watts of power wizz bang to catch a fish....
Your trailer will be hot dipped galvanised mate they all are......it's the only way to go.....spray some Lanolin in and on it to keep it rust free
.
Good luck with it mate
Dan
ozscott
01-08-2011, 07:26 AM
Great stuff mate! Now the fun starts with lights and wiring and accessories. I really enjoyed this thread. It reminded me of the hunt then the find of my Vagabond. The trepedation and excitement there at the same time. Mate you will love her. Cheers
malby
01-08-2011, 07:39 AM
Thanks guys for all of the encouragement. I've really appreciated the input both positive and negative. Helped me way it all up sensibly. Re my Fishabout, there is some old pics of her minus the new Bimini and not really cleaned up available if you click on view malby's photo's.
PADDLES
01-08-2011, 08:08 AM
good on ya malby, that's one nice boat. there's a number of good mobile techos in our area but there is one that i'd personally avoid, i'll pm you his name. alternatively, if you are happy to take it to a dealer i think you'll find any of the long term businesses in our area are real good ie. cunningham's and northside.
finga
01-08-2011, 09:27 AM
So here's the run down on the engine which is the only real issue I can see tus far.
The PSI readings were: about 135 for the bottom 4 cylinders and 125 for the top 2. Hopefully within the ok range??
This was 'after' running it for about 5 mins which we did to just check out the tell tale again and put her in forward and reverse gear etc as could not do a water test due to ill health of the owner. Not sure if having run her for 5 mins would have made a difference to the PSI on the top 2???
Compressions are not too bad. less then 10% difference between the cylinders isn't too bad at all.
All ours are 135
The compressions might get closer together as it's used a bit more but it might be an idea to check the mixture of the top carb out. Were all the plug colours the same?
It did have rust on the outside of the bottom plug but the inside was 'sweet as' with no little beads of water etc. My mate who was a mechanic for many years said the bottom 4 plugs looked the best when we removed them. ie clean etc.
No worries there as that plug can get briney water on it from water splashing up the motor when in reverse or rough seas
There was also rust on some of the bolts at the bottom of the (I guess) head. If you stand at the back of the motor and look at the boat they were on the left side closest to the back and closest to the bottom and were more rusty as you went down. Only 4 of them were rusty (progressively worse as you went down the line) and I cleaned them up today and it was all surface rust though I could not really get to the bottom one properly.
If your looking at the long plate on the left hand side then that's the water jacket.
Again, they'll be rustier as you go down.
When I first saw that bottom bolt I thought....good time for new top and bottom seals...and took the power head off.
Once it was off I made a funny looking spanner that would fit into that recess and undo the bolt when the power head is on.
The big thing will be when you take the water jackets off. If there's no pitting or corrosion your home and hosed.
If the bottom bolts have only surface rust then they should be OK to remove
I have removed the outer shell that sits on top of the motor and runs down the back of her protecting the plugs etc to get to these bolts and clean them up which I did with Inox and a tooth brush and they all look pretty good now. I have also Inoxed all bolts in prep for the big seals and gaskets job I am anticipating??
Are any outboard mechanics on here? If so should I try to remove the head bolts myself (photo's would be good here?? in the lead up to having them strip it down) and if so where are they? Also, what prep should I do more than spraying them with Inox?? I have already sprayed all the bolts I could see. The shell bolts were all pretty dam tight I'll tell you.
I wouldn't worry about undoing them until your ready to do the job. A spray is always good though
The old guy started the engine at nearly full revs and with the choke on full and then pulls it off and down asap.
We only have to open the neutral throttle a bit to start ours...but they're all different I suppose
Has yours got the "press the button three times" for the choke or is it a butterfly? We just have to hit the choke button three times on our Merc.
The trailer is a Dunbier full roller trailer and is worth $4000 replacement and it looks like new! Only some surface rust on the wheel nuts. Amazing as its an 04 model. They must have hot dipped it??
Spray with Lanox. It's like Inox but when some Lanolin in it. It seems be a bit thicker and it seems to stick better and for longer
Mate. I'd be changing the impeller and then using her a bit to see if the compressions get any better and then if they stay down I'd be considering a new set of rings in her when the power head came off.
If you want to have a gander in the bore to see if there's any marks or scores I have a flash bore camera you can borrow and if you want a manual I can loan you one.
A very nice member from here (Dignity...thanks again matey) gave me a manual which I'd be more then happy to lend you.
About the only thing I'd be worrying about at the moment is the top two plugs. I'd be checking the mixture out. Were the plugs showing signs of burning lean or rich?
There is also a spot on those motors where you can put a water temperature and/or water pressure sender units.
I have a water temperature gauge but I have not got a clue of the top of my head what normal operating temperature is. I have marked a line on the gauge. That way every body knows what normal is (and my brain cannot remember things like that)
From that point we also another another tell tale running from about an 1/8 of an inch OD plastic tube. It runs into the engine well. It's easier to see then the one running out the right side.
oldie
01-08-2011, 01:58 PM
Great upgrade from the Old Tinny mate you wont know yourself thru the choppy bay!! if you can sell it and get the 4k makes that Cruise Craft a cheap up grade thats for sure, i'd run that koden till it craps itself then get into a n ice new HD Lowrance or similar. You got yourself perfect boat for the summer mackerel season too. I reckon you'll be getting plenty of comments at your local ramp mate. Good work
Scott Ashe
01-08-2011, 04:35 PM
All the best with the new rig mate, it's a credit to the previous owner, hopefully you'll bring some fish aboard soon.
Cheers
Malby, that engine does not have a cylinder head that you can remove. They are a blind cast bore so it's all one piece. To do the sideplates it's easier to remove the powerhead and work on it on the bench. Only about 8 bolts and a few wires and cables to get it off.
The inner sideplate is the important one to reseal or replace as this is the one that will leak water into the cylinders.
The compression difference I would not even worry about.
Knock the timing back a couple of degrees and definitely should be run on premium fuel. You can also change the main jets in the carbs up 1 size for added protection.
Cheers
finga
01-08-2011, 05:15 PM
Malby, that engine does not have a cylinder head that you can remove.
Cheers
There's a water jacket thingo and gasket there though. Looks a bit like a headcover
Here's an exploded diagram of one
http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/parts/278_15.cfm
Yep, there's a water jacket cover plate with a gasket beneath. Not really worth pulling it off unless it's leaking. Very likely to break bolts getting it off and same goes for the outer sideplate bolts too. Inners also can break and need heli coiling also.
Steeler
01-08-2011, 06:31 PM
2 strokes gain compression as they are running,as previously stated no greater than 10% difference across all 6 and your sweet.
As BM says, get that timing knocked back a couple of degrees or you will have detonation issues.
malby
01-08-2011, 09:11 PM
Not sure if anyone knows the answer to this problem?
I bought the rig in NSW. Due to ill health etc they could not locate the current trailer or boat rego docs....they 'really are the owners in case you are doubting'. The stickers on the trailer and boat are current but they could only find the previous year's rego documents. The wife signed the boat one and said she called dept of transport/motor registry and they said that I could do the transfer with just that and a proof of purchase document which I have (ie a private sale contract we drew up which acts as a receipt also). I have a feeling she should have signed over the trailer papers also even if they are the previous year?? She seemed convinced that after her chat with the rego people that I would be all go. Has anyone transferred a boat across into Qld lately and know the current rules around this issue? What will I really need?? I don't fancy waiting in one of those massive lines for ages to discover I don't have what's needed. I can mail her back the trailer rego if required etc?? Any thoughts??? I think I also need a rego person to check my trailer etc??
Malby, all you should really need is your proof of purchase receipt which contains the make and model of the hull and any identifying numbers on the hull along with the make and model of the trailer and any identifying numbers on it. Also the make, model and serial number of the engine.
You cannot transfer a registration interstate. You need to re-register the boat and trailer. In Qld you need a safety certificate I believe for the trailer.
Having copies of the previous rego papers for both boat and trailer is advisable. Some states will require this, some won't.
If you only have the boat papers then it would pay to grab the trailer papers also as they are two independent items and if Qld Transport require the docs then you'll need both.
It should not matter that they are previous year docs. Qld Transport can quickly check the rego info if they need to.
Cheers
IcyDuck
02-08-2011, 09:44 AM
Yes Malby, you will need to get the trailer inspected and a Qld safety certificate issued before you can register it here.
I bought a second hand BMT from SA a few years ago. I didn't need the rego papers, but as BM stated, you need the proof of purchase, safety cert for the trailer and all the details of the BMT for Qld Transport. Any previous rego papers wouldn't hurt though as the more info the better. There is nothing worse than spending half your day at one of places only to be turned away because you were missing one piece of info.
Regards Phil.
mate, thats a nice well looked after boat but agree with others in saying to think long and hard about what you want from your fishing boat b4 you purchase. i have the same engine, same year i think on my boat and it basically costs a small fortune to run. i get roughly bout 1km per litre give or take. plus the oil aint cheap these days either. they are noisy but have plenty of punch. i actually like the noise it makes.
I have a very simliar boat too. i like to fish in the bay and rivers mostly and it doesnt really suit my way of fishing. they arnt too stealthy!! in hindsight i wouldnt have purchased it but on ther hand it has been great and has helped me catch some nice mackerel but given their high fuel consumption a run past moreton will take a fair bit of fuel. what type of fishing do you want to do mostly?
malby
02-08-2011, 03:16 PM
I have been doing lots of Estuary stuff but was frustrated that I could not really get outside to chase the bigger stuff so wanted a boat I could do all of that with. I also wanted a boat I could get the wife on and take the older 2 sons out wake boarding occasionally. A centre console was not pretty enough and not really very family friendly (at least that's what my wife had said). My old/other (currently for sale) boat is a very rare 16 foot Quintrex Fishabout which is a Runabout and was great for all of the Estuary stuff and even sneek outside occasionally. It was an ugly smelly fishing boat but did the above things well.
Thanks heaps for the feedback as I am currently weighing up whether to keep the engine or sell and upgrade. Sounds like you are suggesting I sell and upgrade straight away, maybe to a 4 stroke??
Where have you been getting the Macks?? In the Bay? Also, what would it cost you in juice to go out to Moreton Island (say Tangalooma), drive around for a bit and come back?
Re your engine: Did you check your PSI ratings?? How did they come up?? Was your engine a clean one with no probs? If you got things done to it what were they? Also, what is your boat and what did it set you back if you don't mind saying so? I'd be interested as this/my boat weighs 600 kg plus the engine. Is your boat that heavy? Another reason I went for a boat as big as this is that all the feedback is that when you go outside you want a heavier boat as they sit better in the swell. My Fishabout was plain scary in a swell so thought I'd go bigger rather than smaller.
Everything is a compromise so I'm sure this boat will do some of what I want well and other things not so well.
Stealth is not so much of a problem outside but sure would be in shallower water so maybe another point for a 4 stroke?
Thanks again and please let me know some of your thoughts,
PADDLES
02-08-2011, 03:32 PM
don't replace the motor until it's wrecked mal, you've just paid for it and it's really worth more to you now than it's worth to the market so just use it till it starts to play up and then move it on for parts or repair.
I have been doing lots of Estuary stuff but was frustrated that I could not really get outside to chase the bigger stuff so wanted a boat I could do all of that with. I also wanted a boat I could get the wife on and take the older 2 sons out wake boarding occasionally. A centre console was not pretty enough and not really very family friendly (at least that's what my wife had said). My old/other (currently for sale) boat is a very rare 16 foot Quintrex Fishabout which is a Runabout and was great for all of the Estuary stuff and even sneek outside occasionally. It was an ugly smelly fishing boat but did the above things well.
Thanks heaps for the feedback as I am currently weighing up whether to keep the engine or sell and upgrade. Sounds like you are suggesting I sell and upgrade straight away, maybe to a 4 stroke??
Where have you been getting the Macks?? In the Bay? Also, what would it cost you in juice to go out to Moreton Island (say Tangalooma), drive around for a bit and come back?
Re your engine: Did you check your PSI ratings?? How did they come up?? Was your engine a clean one with no probs? If you got things done to it what were they? Also, what is your boat and what did it set you back if you don't mind saying so? I'd be interested as this/my boat weighs 600 kg plus the engine. Is your boat that heavy? Another reason I went for a boat as big as this is that all the feedback is that when you go outside you want a heavier boat as they sit better in the swell. My Fishabout was plain scary in a swell so thought I'd go bigger rather than smaller.
Everything is a compromise so I'm sure this boat will do some of what I want well and other things not so well.
Stealth is not so much of a problem outside but sure would be in shallower water so maybe another point for a 4 stroke?
Thanks again and please let me know some of your thoughts,
yeah no worries. for a run out to tanga from home port of shorncliffe including a typical look see at a few beacons and other spots in that area i would use about 60-70 litres of fuel in generally nice conditions (5-10kts). sounds like the boat is a good choice for what you plan. i do majority of my fishing in shallower waters which is why i personally find not adequete MOST of the time. its perfect offshore in nice conditions or in the for a beacon bash with family followed by anchoring at the wrecks for lunch.
i agree with paddles in maximising your outlay and use the existing motor until you can no longer afford the fuel costs, want to venture further or it carks it.
spotty and schoolies (mackerel) are common in summer around the beacons near tangalooma. actually they will pop up anywhere really but the beacons are a good start. many guys on here do really well on them. stealth is still important in the bay when chasing schools of tuna as any motor noise will make them skittish and difficult to approach. can be frustrating at times.
i did get a compression test and it came back sweet. In fact the motor has been great for me and starts generally first time every time which is pretty awesome i think for 25 years old. i use every two to three weeks which is one reason why it still runs well imo. my boat is a haines signature 17 and half foot half cab and i paid $5000 for it which was about 2-3 grand cheaper than market value. The reason why i got it cheaper is it was a family boat from new and i bought it off my cousin. It handles beautifully and makes mince meat of small chop. i think if you do buy then it will be a good boat for what you want to do, i.e family etc. good luck and tight lines.
malby
03-08-2011, 07:31 AM
I was already thinking along those lines so good to get some confirmation Paddles. I have a 14 yr old son and don't want to freak him (or me) out by getting stuck out at Sea. That is the only niggling thought in the back of my mind. Thanks again for input.
PADDLES
03-08-2011, 07:47 AM
i understand you mal, half of the pleasure of recreational boating is having peace of mind and the last thing you want/need is for family members to lose confidence in the boat and then not want to go out in it. you've now got a good seaworthy boat, make sure you have got a good radio and safety equipment (and learn how to use them properly), have good batteries )charge and check them constantly), become an associate member of the coastguard, ensure you do whatever is necessary to make sure your engine is as serviceable as you can make it. whilst our end of moreton bay is a dangerous place when the wind blows, help is usually not that far away for any failures you may have in the bay itself, out the front of moreton however is that little bit further/longer.
malby
03-08-2011, 08:01 PM
Thanks Finga. I would be most keen to have a loan of both the manual and the flash bore camera. Do you ever come down Morayfield/Caboolture way. PM me for further info on how to go about loaning this stuff as it would be good to check and see.
malby
03-08-2011, 08:05 PM
Thanks BM. So are you suggesting I take the powerhead off/get it done. I'd really prefer to spend whatever is requird up front to ensure I don't strike any major probs down the track whilst out at sea with my family. Any tricks to removing the 8 bolts without breaking them?
malby
03-08-2011, 08:10 PM
I went in today to Qld transport and they said I only had to fill in the paperwork and self register the trailer as long as it was under 750Kgs. I needed stacks of facts and figures on the boat, the trailer and and what the previous outboard mechanic ate for breakfast. So much info required so I ended up taking all of the paperwork home and will need to go back again to sort it. No mention at all of any safety certificate being required. Maybe the ppl I got never thought of this. I hope they won't expect it next time I'm in as they never even brought that up!!
malby
03-08-2011, 08:13 PM
What is Heli coiling?
robothefisho
03-08-2011, 08:37 PM
They will expect the safety certificate and it will be required.
Jarrah Jack
03-08-2011, 09:07 PM
Looks like Vic is much easier than Qld to do changeovers. Here it was just a matter of showing the dodgy looking sale document. One thing that made it easier was that they could cross reference rego details on the NSW data base.
Helecoils are just an inserted thread that you can replace stripped threads with so you can use the same size bolt.
Wow!!! What a difference!
Here in Vic, Vicroads act as "an agent" (translation, the fee collector and fee collector only) of Marine Safety Victoria and as such, they really don't give a shit about the details!!! Literally. Oh ok, its a boat. No probs....
Helicoils have been apropriately explained and are common and certainly nothing to get remotely concerned about.
Re powerhead removal. If you broke the bolts and nuts holding the powerhead on I would fall off my chair..... We used to remove an inline powerhead in under 15 minutes.. That should give you some idea as to how easily it is removed.
Malby, I think that you really need to realise that your engine could very well run trouble free for many many years to come! Just because it's an older engine doesn't mean its a piece of crap. However, the adjustments suggested (timing, fuel grade and carb jet size) are learned items to give your engine prolonged life. They are not workarounds for engineering failures. Your engine was built when fuel quality was quite good. Fuel today is SHIT compared to back then (got bad about 1987). Thats why your engine ran well back then. To achieve the same performance today you require premium grade fuel.
As a new engine to you (just like any engine to a 'new' person) it needs a couple of inshore runs to satisfy your reliability concerns. After that, off you go and don't look back.
Your brand new replacement engine could shit itself in the first couple of hours use too which would put you right back to where you are now in terms of reliability concerns.
Give it a few runs to get used to it and then off you go and enjoy yourself mate!
Cheers
Y-Not
04-08-2011, 08:08 PM
The 750KGincludes boat etc. so you WILL need a saftey certificate and they will possibly want you to drag the rig in for them to inspect. They wanted me to take my new triler there to get it registered earlier this year even though it dint have the boat on at the time.
IcyDuck
04-08-2011, 09:11 PM
You can only self assess and register the trailer if the ATM (Aggregate Trailer Mass) is 750kgs or less. ATM is the combined weight of the trailer and its full load (ie boat) when it is not coupled to a tow vehicle. If it is over 750kgs you need a safety certificate. When I did mine 2 years ago (ATM 1400kgs) I had to take the trailer, safety certificate and details into a Qld Transport service centre. They actually came out and ran the tape measure over the trailer to check various dimensions.
If you do a search for for registering caravans and light trailers on the Qld Transport web site, you will find all the details.
Regards Phil.
malby
04-08-2011, 10:47 PM
I live in the same area as yourself IcyDuck. Where should I go to get my trailer inspected?
Gon Fishun
04-08-2011, 10:52 PM
Malby.
A vehicle inspection place should be able to handle your rwc certificate, and I am pretty sure you don't have to get an insurance permit as it is covered by your car insurance.
Cheers .
Bob.
IcyDuck
04-08-2011, 11:47 PM
Not all inspection stations do trailers. I took mine to Brisbane Isuzu. They're on the Eastern Service Road at Burpengary. I'm pretty sure that they still do them Malby, but give them a call to check.
Regards Phil.
PADDLES
05-08-2011, 08:31 AM
there's a number of trailer and caravan places in the industrial estate behind the sundowner as well. maybe try the trailer joint on morayfield road, they do repairs and servicing so might do safety certificates.
malby
06-08-2011, 01:58 PM
All fixed I have found a few places and it can be as cheap as $38 which is my best price thus far.
malby
06-08-2011, 02:01 PM
Thanks Phil. I am having it inspected next week. Just wondering, am I able to bring the trailer in with the boat on it or does the trailer have to come in minus the boat? It would be a real pain if they expect me to come in with just the trailer???
malby
06-08-2011, 02:38 PM
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Some pics of the guts of the engine...thoughts....??
IcyDuck
06-08-2011, 03:19 PM
Thanks Phil. I am having it inspected next week. Just wondering, am I able to bring the trailer in with the boat on it or does the trailer have to come in minus the boat? It would be a real pain if they expect me to come in with just the trailer???
Yeh, with the boat is fine Malby. Those prices you quoted are quite cheap too. I'm sure I paid more than that 2 years ago.
finga
06-08-2011, 04:43 PM
Mate...do as BM suggests. Get the small adjustments done and go for a few trips close in or with friends until you get confidence in the motor. This would be a must for any engine not just an older one.
The chances are the motor will run for years to come.
I have a lot older Merc. then yours (78 model) and I would not swap it for quids.
We did what BM said but to start with we had a mechanic check it all out properly and do a major service.
We then did a few trips close by until the engine earned it's reliable tag and off we went.
We've had the boat and engine since 2001 and the only thing that's happened to it in all that time is the normal servicing and we had a sticky needle in the top carb one day. A tap on the bowl and she came good and never a problem since.
So that's close to 11 years of service for us with no drama's.
The only picture that doesn't not look like a champion is the first one.
Is that silicon they've used as gasket goo? If so then clean her up, shove on a couple of new gaskets and you'll be good to go.
The rest of the pictures look really, really good.
It has been well looked after if the pictures are anything to go on.
finga
06-08-2011, 04:46 PM
Thanks Finga. I would be most keen to have a loan of both the manual and the flash bore camera. Do you ever come down Morayfield/Caboolture way. PM me for further info on how to go about loaning this stuff as it would be good to check and see.
PM sent :)
malby
07-08-2011, 09:39 PM
I started and ran the motor for about 10 mins on Saturday before taking it all off to the Trimmer for new bimini and covers re-stitch. It took a while to start - in fact several go's. Eventually it kicked off and I ran it at idle speed and I noticed a few things by comparison to my old blue stripe 1980 50 Merc.
1. It blew a fair bit of smoke for the whole time.
2. The tell tale remained cold the whole 10 mins?? My Merc 50 gets quite warm after just 3 or 4 mins.
3. Some oil began dripping down the leg when I raised the engine to get it ready to drive off.
Keep in mind that this engine probably has not been run much for the past 18 months. Also that the petrol mixture was not made up by me so I have no idea how rich he had made the fuel mixture?
One question...After running my blue stripe 50 I always finished by disconnecting the fuel line and running her dry to keep the carby's clean and oli free. Should I be doing that with this inline 6 115?
PADDLES
08-08-2011, 08:07 AM
g'day mal, with regards to the cold watercheck your thermostat is working properly.
smoking when cold is what 2 strokes do best, my old black max used to leave a good solid smoke screen at the ramp. that being said, if old mate didn't use it that much i'd be having a good hard think about maybe getting all the old fuel out of the system (including carby, lines and filter etc.) and replacing it with new stuff. if it's been sitting for a while and only ever idled on the muffs between trips there's probably a turdload of oil in the crankcase and a heap sitting in the carby bowls which needs to get sucked through and burnt. i reckon after checking your thermostat works ok, just take it down the river and go for a good blast to get it good and hot and clear it out. all that oil dripping off the leg should only be the half burnt oil being sucked out the crank case.
What's your starting procedure Malby?
Check to see if you have choke plates or an enricher device. If choke plates, when you press the choke button you will here a click and see the choke plates cover the carby throats (cowl off of course).
If choke plate model proceed as follows:
1) raise warm up lever to 3/4 height or thereabouts
2) hold key pushed in to activate choke and keep held in whilst cranking. It is only choking whilst the key is held in.
It should fire within a couple of seconds. When it does quickly bring the fast idle lever back down a bit so it doesn't rev it's tits off. If that stalls it then repeat the process. Work the warm up lever to keep it at a fast idle for around 30 seconds then you should be able to drop the lever all the way down.
If an enricher model the procedure is very similar except that the enrichener works like a bucket with a hole in it. Press and hold the key to activate the enricher. Hold it down for 5 seconds BEFORE releasing and then cranking. The 5 seconds allows the enricher device to drain one of the carbs float bowls into the crankcase.
The cold telltale is not a concern.
There is no thermostat in your engine per se. The block has restrictor holes in the outlet that control the flow rate of water exiting the block, hence acting as a thermostat.
Oil leaking down the leg I wouldn't be too concerned about as mentioned. What it needs if it's been owned by an old codger is a nice big, hard, hi speed, flat knacker, screaming run! That's not a flippant remark but a genuine comment. Drain the fuel if it's old (older than 8 weeks) and put fresh fuel in using Quicksilver oil and take it for a hard long run.
Whenever I bought boats in for yard stock I always took them for a good hard run but would always stay close to shore. Like, 200m offshore and run for 5-10 k's down and then back. It's a good shakedown which will let you know how the engine performs, is it propped right and is the engine height right and are there any odd behaviors from the hull (eg: porpoising, burying the nose, heavy heavy steering pull etc)
You can run her dry (at idle) each tine you put her away if you like. Not really an issue if you use it regularly but it's fine to do that. Little bit old school though!
Cheers
Starting these engines is nothing more than the correct technique Malby.
Once you get it right it will start very quickly every time.
I used to get customers ring to say 'we are having trouble starting the engine'. They would bring it back down and be amazed at how quickly it could be started - with the correct technique. That used to happen often.
Wouldn't hurt also to learn how to pull start it. It's pretty easy and I don't say that in relation to just your engine. Everyone should know how to pull start their engine in case of battery failure.
It's simple and provides real comfort knowing if your battery is dead you can still start your engine. A mate of mine (marine repairer for 45 yrs) at the age of 75 could still pull start a Merc V6.
Cheers
PADDLES
08-08-2011, 10:41 AM
disregard my thermostat comment then malby if it doesn't have one. i agree with BM, get the knack right for your starts, the old mercs were notorious for cranky starting if you didn't use the exact right procedure, or at least my old one was.
our blackmax was an enricher type choke and the procedure BM says is spot on, i used to only count to 3 though with the key pressed in. i found out the hard way at first with the blackmax (because i initially thought it was a restrictor type choke) that if i held it on too long it just flooded the krap out of it and when it did start there was a good smokescreen.
malby
24-12-2020, 11:01 PM
Well after 9.5 years, 2 engine upgrades ( currently a 100 Yammy 4 Stroke), floor and custom designed transom replacement, new seats and Wave Master pedestals, new seat upholstery on the forward seats, a bow rail, a step and ladder, various sounder and GPS upgrades as well as transducer upgrades, custom live bait tank, deck wash, new steering wheel and dashboard area she is looking slicker than ever. She has given me and my family and mates many hours of joy and countless fishing adventures. But I am finally considering an upgrade in size. I am considering going up to either a Reef Ranger, Explorer 570 and Outsider just to name a few. Anyone ever owned a Explorer 570? If so feedback would be great as well as any of the others stated. If I can fit a photo or two on here with the small picture requirements I will. Like many I have been using Facebook groups for many years now but thought I'd check in on good old ausfish to get your thoughts too. Cheers, Mal122868122869
ranmar850
25-12-2020, 01:53 PM
She sounds a bit like the proverbial Irishman's axe, if you have heard the joke...;D Merry Xmas :thumbsup:
malby
26-12-2020, 08:43 PM
Sorry Ranmer, no I haven't ??
gazza2006au
27-12-2020, 02:52 AM
Geez u had a good run Malby 2011 to 2020-2021 did u ever replace the plywood floor, stringers or transom?
ranmar850
27-12-2020, 04:04 PM
The joke goes-- the old irishman was talking about his axe. "Had it since I was a boy. Lasted all me life. Seven new handles and two new heads, they don't make them like that anymore" ::)
Dignity
28-12-2020, 09:03 AM
The joke goes-- the old irishman was talking about his axe. "Had it since I was a boy. Lasted all me life. Seven new handles and two new heads, they don't make them like that anymore" ::)
The longer version goes "Twas handed down to me from my father, who got it from his father, who got it from my great grandfather ......"
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