Merc 50 blue stripe starting issue

[malby]

Hi there all,

I have a 1980 Quinny Fishabout with a 50 Merc Blue Stripe and forward controls. Been going great for years but the last few outings I have had problems with starting the boat on ocassion. I tried all sorts of things as the tilt motor worked fine and finally fiddled with the 'forward/reverse' controller. Moved it back and forth and into Neutral again and Bingo! It worked again. This has unfortunately happened again a few times and is really annoying/dangerous as I go outside at times. I have unscrewed the controller and have it split open trying to see what can be done. Can't tell much from looking. Grease looks old as do the wires but has anyone had this problem and if so how did you fix it??

Thanks, Mal:'(

[finga]

Is that the square boxy controller with the tilt switch up the top of the handle and the button you have to press to be able to use the fast idle feature??

[Roughasguts]

De-Grease the controler find the neutral switch! clean it up and clean the contacts with solvent or a light rub with wet and dry. Try strating several times before re asembling.

Cheers.

[malby]

Is that the square boxy controller with the tilt switch up the top of the handle and the button you have to press to be able to use the fast idle feature??
It's a rectangular box and the rest is as you have described.

[malby]

De-Grease the controler find the neutral switch! clean it up and clean the contacts with solvent or a light rub with wet and dry. Try strating several times before re asembling.

Cheers.
Thanks for that. What does the neutral switch look like?

I can take a photo of the inside of the controller now I have disassembled it if that would help?

Also, after degreasing it should I regrease it?

And what sort of solvent can you use to clean electrical contacts without affecting the plastic coating on the wires? Getting to the contacts may be difficult as you will see if I can get a good enough photo.

[Jarrah Jack]

Is that the square boxy controller with the tilt switch up the top of the handle and the button you have to press to be able to use the fast idle feature??


I think he wants to know about his boat Finga not your manly control mechanism.:D:D


BTW A good boat those quinney"s I've go a 79 version which would make yours the younger brother Malby. Still going strong.

[finga]

Matey...I have one of those control boxes in the shed believe it or not.
I'll pull it apart tomorrow to see what switch it is.
Does it look something like this?? If so then a new switch will need to be shoved in but they are common as seagulls at a picnic.

As for greasing her up again then just use a marine grease like what you use in the steering or wheel bearings.
They gum up after awhile and it's normal they get all stiff.

PS: Terry....I worry about you sometimes http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Thinking/thinking-023.GIF

http://www.1st-product.com/uploads/4/2212/micro-switch-578.jpg

[Roughasguts]

I like the export degreaser from suoer cheap but even once off and I mean once!! is WD 40 cause in time that will rot plastic.

Cheers.

[finga]

Another thing to consider is the kill switch.
Has your controller got a toggle switch towards the rear of the controller on the lower front face that has like a shroud around both sides and across the top??

[malby]

I have photo's ready to go in the appropriate size but can't seem to upload the as it asks me where the url is? What the? I have uploaded photo's before selling fishing gear and it was totally different. What do I do?

[malby]

Another thing to consider is the kill switch.
Has your controller got a toggle switch towards the rear of the controller on the lower front face that has like a shroud around both sides and across the top??
Yes it does and I have only just noticed it as I took the photo's.

[malby]

Hope that this works. Helps having a son who is a computer geek.

[malby]

She is actually a 1979 boat with a 1980 engine and is a very rare 16 foot model with wide coamings. Been an awesome boat that has given many great hours of fishing. My plan is to fix her up and sell her soonish if you know anyone interested.

[finga]

Dad has the 13' model with original Evinrude and trailor. All 1970 models.

The reverse switch is near the little spring towards the centre of the controller under some of the steel bits.
If I have a free moment tomorrow I'll pull mine apart and see exactly where it is and take a picture of it..

Now...when you say it did not start did it not wind over at all or did it wind over without firing?

[malby]

It did not wind over at all. Just went dead. It has done it now about 3 times. Had the young fella and his mate on board and was a tad distressing for them. Not great when you are trying to encourage their enjoyment of fishing and boating. Rest of the day it went fine. Strange but dangerous as next ti me I could be outside.

[Jarrah Jack]

My plan is to fix her up and sell her soonish if you know anyone interested.

I paid 3.5 for mine with a young 40 tohatsu. Otherwise much the same.



Scott....I was going to say something about that email this morning but its only humor mate. Not need to worry.

[finga]

Scott....I was going to say something about that email this morning but its only humor mate. Not need to worry.
I sent that to TOL's Gwenda too.
I wonder if she got some use, or ideas, out of it?? ;D

But back to the problem.
I can't remember if the kill switch will let it wind over or not. I might have to shove a battery in the big boat and 'remember' how it's supposed to work.
Yep, I have your motor's big brother. The mighty Tower of Power.

It's actually a bit of a pain finding a problem that intermittent. Usually when she's all pulled apart it'll work fine.

I have jury duty today but of I'm let out early I'll investigate with mine to see what the go is.
Not a big problem to fix. Biggest problem is pulling the buggers apart to get to the switch.
Lucky I have a couple of spares in the shed to 'experiment' with ::)

[malby]

I sent that to TOL's Gwenda too.
I wonder if she got some use, or ideas, out of it?? ;D

But back to the problem.
I can't remember if the kill switch will let it wind over or not. I might have to shove a battery in the big boat and 'remember' how it's supposed to work.
Yep, I have your motor's big brother. The mighty Tower of Power.

It's actually a bit of a pain finding a problem that intermittent. Usually when she's all pulled apart it'll work fine.

I have jury duty today but of I'm let out early I'll investigate with mine to see what the go is.
Not a big problem to fix. Biggest problem is pulling the buggers apart to get to the switch.
Lucky I have a couple of spares in the shed to 'experiment' with ::)
Thanks for helping out Finga. I'll look forward to seeing what you discover. I am reticent to pull it apart for fear of being like one of those complex baitcasters you start pulling down to have springs pop out and washers fall down and you have no clue how to reassemble it. Be good to get your feedback first.

[finga]

No time yesterday but today should be a goer.

Or I'll give you $1,000 for the package as she is not going ;) :D

[Jarrah Jack]

Or I'll give you $1,000 for the package as she is not going ;) :D

Cheeky bugger..the cat wants somewhere else to sleep in eh.

[finga]

Bloody controller I had did not have a neutral lockout.
After pulling it apart (thinking...bloody hell they've hidden it well the b@stards) it dawned on me there's no switch at all and the two wires I thought went to the switch go to the choke switch. It should be the same as yours.
It shows which coloured wires you need to find. Straight yellow my the looks.
If the switch looks like the one they have here then they do play up and replacement is easy as. Jaycar or someone like that should have them in stock.
http://www.maxrules.com/oldmercs/Wiring/1966ona/500_76_78eL.jpg

[finga]

Cheeky bugger..the cat wants somewhere else to sleep in eh.
Yeah matey. It's a bit cold now and Meow the cat wants somewhere to lie in the sun. And I ain't leaving 'Junior' in the sun. I just can't afford that much sunscreen:P

[malby]

Bloody controller I had did not have a neutral lockout.
After pulling it apart (thinking...bloody hell they've hidden it well the b@stards) it dawned on me there's no switch at all and the two wires I thought went to the switch go to the choke switch. It should be the same as yours.
It shows which coloured wires you need to find. Straight yellow my the looks.
If the switch looks like the one they have here then they do play up and replacement is easy as. Jaycar or someone like that should have them in stock.
http://www.maxrules.com/oldmercs/Wiring/1966ona/500_76_78eL.jpg

Wow that is great. Thanks so much for going to all of this trouble for me. Now I just have to figure out what to do with this info? Is the Interlock switch the one you are referring to? I must admit I am still a tad confused even after looking at this diagram. Not much of a sparkey. Any further advice would be most appreciated as am a challeged sparkey. Thanks again, Mal

[finga]

Righto now.
By the looks the micro switch (neutral start interlock or neutral switch or more commonly referred to as the buggered thingo your looking for) is gotten at (how's that for Queen's English??) from the front of the controller.
Now to get the plastic face off and see what you can find.

Step 1: Swear. Why?? Because you might as well get it over and done with.
Step 2: Take the forward/reverse/gear selector handle off. This is done by undoing the grub screw at the bottom of the handle. You'll need a 5/32 allen key to do this. Best to have the handle in neutral to do this so you know where the handle needs to go when you shove it all back together.
Step 4: Locate 3 screws that hold the plastic face on. These can be seen from the 'guts' side of the controller. There's one near the little spring, one under one of your control cables and it looks like one is missing on your controller.
Step 5 (hopefully): After removing the plastic cover you should be able to see the switch. Follow the yellow wires. They should take you to the switch.
The switch seems to look like the switch I put up earlier but with a little arm on it.
Step 6: Take switch to Jaycar or someone similar to get new one.
Step 7: Re-assemble
Step 8: Try. Say Woohoo if it works. Say sh!t if it doesn't.

The end.

Cheers Scott :)

[Fed]

Hey there Finga, is that switch adjustable from within the controller and is there a neutral indent within the controller, what I'm getting at is that maybe the shift cable needs adjusting at the motor connection because there is (by memory) an indent in the gearbox on that little stepped cam.
I just can't remember mate it's been too long since I've pulled one apart.

[finga]

There is an indent and the adjustment could be out.
An excellent suggestion Fed fella.

[malby]

Hey there Finga, is that switch adjustable from within the controller and is there a neutral indent within the controller, what I'm getting at is that maybe the shift cable needs adjusting at the motor connection because there is (by memory) an indent in the gearbox on that little stepped cam.
I just can't remember mate it's been too long since I've pulled one apart.
Hi Fed. Thanks for your input. I am a tad unsure what to do with your info but it sounds like you know something about this. So I think what your saying is that the neutral position on the gearstick is somehow adjustable within the motor if you can get in there (and then know what to do). Any further advice would be most appreciated. Much thanks, Mal

[finga]

How often does it happen matey?
Can you feel a definite clunk as the lever goes into neutral?

The adjustment is purely so the gearbox is in neutral at the same time as the control box.
If the indent spring in the controller is weak then it may, just may, over power the indent setup in the controller.
The indent tension in the controller is adjusted through a little hole in the front of the controller. But this is purely a tension adjustment not a come in or out of neutral adjustment.

How did you go in locating the switch Mal?
If the problem happens often you can just join both the wires that are on neutral lockout switch together and it should go IF the switch is the problem.

Or I'll give you $700 and problem solvered ;)

[malby]

Thanks Finga. I have not gone any further with it as yet due to busy weekend. There 'is' a definite clunk as I put it in Neutral. I'm guessing from your description that is more likely to be either in the gearbox or the electrical switch starting to play up. I hope to get to it later this week so will keep you posted.

[malby]

How often does it happen matey?
Can you feel a definite clunk as the lever goes into neutral?

The adjustment is purely so the gearbox is in neutral at the same time as the control box.
If the indent spring in the controller is weak then it may, just may, over power the indent setup in the controller.
The indent tension in the controller is adjusted through a little hole in the front of the controller. But this is purely a tension adjustment not a come in or out of neutral adjustment.

How did you go in locating the switch Mal?
If the problem happens often you can just join both the wires that are on neutral lockout switch together and it should go IF the switch is the problem.

Or I'll give you $700 and problem solvered ;)
Thanks Finga.

Your sure were right about swearing first!

It was a proper bugger but me and a few mates nailed it today. We also uncovered a large amount of wiring in the engine that was corroded and needed replacing so we did. One mate is a computer systems guy and he fixed the throttle controller by replacing the switch which when he tested it, it was intermittent. My other mechanic mate pulled the top off the engine inc the magnito and replaced a whole bunch of the wiring.

In all it took us most of the day but she runs great now and we have probably averted an on-water dissaster/break down so I'm very relieved.

So thanks heaps for your help.

Turns out the wires in question were yellow and not green. The switch we got was a 10 amp and not a 15 (as it was due to availability). We re-wired the gutts of the engine with 2mm wires instead of 3 (as we could only get 2mm). But we have heat shrinked all joins and in all it is vastly improved.

The switch ended up looking just as you described

Anyway all the best to you and all who threw threir 2 bobs worth in. All's well that ends well,

Mal;D