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Y-Not
17-04-2011, 11:21 PM
Well the change over onto the new trailer went fairly smoothly with minimal adjustment to the roller heights due lots of measuring and adjusting before I left home.
Theone thing I did not think of was that the whole setup seems very front heavy and sags the suspension more then the old setup did.

Is there any easyway to calculate how far forward to move the axle to to get tow-ball weight back to were i want it ie. about 150 kg. (tow vehicle rated to 225kg):-[

Feral
18-04-2011, 04:39 AM
Old trailer still around? easiest way would be to measure the distance the axle on it is back from the towball.

Otherwise the easiest way to weigh the down load is to wait until the missus is out an knock off her bathroom scales and cutting board. Use an axle stand on top of the cutting boat on top of her prized bathroom scales. (Tow hitch on top of axle stand obviously) lot of weight though 150kg, missus scales might not be up to it.

There probably is an easy way to calculate how far to move it, but if your axle assembly is moveable I'd just do it the hard way, trail and error. Try moving it a foot to start with. (Eventually I had to move mine 18 inches, could have gone more but that was a far forward as it would move)

NAGG
18-04-2011, 05:18 AM
150kgs seems like a hell of a lot of weight on a tow ball ...... are you going by the 10% method :-?

Chris

oldboot
18-04-2011, 08:47 AM
remember the 10% of overall mass is approximate and some recommend 5 to 10%.

yep I second the bathroom scales....... piece of thick ply or cutting board under the jocky wheel works fine.

There probaly is a way to do it mathematicaly...but trial.
and error would be the most common method

cheers

cormorant
18-04-2011, 10:18 AM
Get your axel stands
Flat area
Jack up axel
Put stands on chassis in front of wheels ( you may need a 4*2) .
Basically the stands act as your new axel pivot point - takes 10 minutes and you determin if your axel will actually move far enough forward. If it doesn't you may need to move winch post back and look at the support under your hull at stern..

If you boat doesn't have it's fuel tanks in middle of boat can be a trick. I towed a couple of boats that were great empty but full they were a nightmare ( towing vehicle didn't help)

When you move your axel you must ensure it is square otherwise you trailer will crab on the road or chew out tyres and be very careful of moving brake lines or cables. Regardless you don't want your axel too far forward.

Look at a photo of your boat on your old trailer . Just measure it up with a ruler and you will get it the same.

Good opportunity to put sone rust protection on all the ubolts while you do it and between the chassis and axel bearers.

Measuring towball weight-
Can use a brick and a piece of 3 foot 4*2 if the range is greater than the scales.
Brick one end of wood and scales ( suitably protected ) on the other and jockey wheel in the middle. Do the maths Weight supported by 2 points weight shown on scale will be half of real weight approx.

Trailer manufacturer could do it really quickly for you with air tools and covered by their warranty if something were to go wrong later??