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markbxy
11-01-2011, 07:06 PM
I have a haines 565l i am looking at poding the back to give me some more room in the boat and build the back up to take a 25inch motor. i am worried that if i pod it it will loose its good handling, the pod will be a full fibre glass job and it will follow the chimes of the hull it will be about 600mm wide ( not a bolt on pod).
any one that has done this could u please let me now your thoughts
thanks

Duckfish
11-01-2011, 07:21 PM
Hi Mark.
Be interested at how the project will go. I've got a mate who has a 580SF and the handling was not affected at all. The 580SF is a 565L with an extended transom from the factory.
Duckfish

markbxy
11-01-2011, 08:27 PM
The pod should look like this when all is done but not as wide
http://www.edencraft.com.au/images/formula/gallery/ph_233formula23.JPG

adam sharkcat
13-01-2011, 07:09 AM
I have a haines 565l i am looking at poding the back to give me some more room in the boat and build the back up to take a 25inch motor. i am worried that if i pod it it will loose its good handling, the pod will be a full fibre glass job and it will follow the chimes of the hull it will be about 600mm wide ( not a bolt on pod).
any one that has done this could u please let me now your thoughts
thanks
Hi,i had a 565L Edencraft back in 2000 and it had a long pod on it 800mm long,and found it to porpis alot! I then had a short pod made for the boat 350mm long and this had made a huge diffrence the way the boat rode. much better trim responce.so all in all dont go too long.this boat was powered with a 175hp yamaha 2 banger.
Also Edencraft have now gone away from pods on there bigger boat the Formula 233. something to think about?:o Adam.

myusernam
13-01-2011, 08:38 AM
why not have the pod extend the whole waterline length (full width of the hull).

markbxy
13-01-2011, 12:39 PM
it should look like the pic above this is following the line and chimes underneith the vessel is that what u mean

markbxy
13-01-2011, 01:07 PM
Hi,i had a 565L Edencraft back in 2000 and it had a long pod on it 800mm long,and found it to porpis alot! I then had a short pod made for the boat 350mm long and this had made a huge diffrence the way the boat rode. much better trim responce.so all in all dont go too long.this boat was powered with a 175hp yamaha 2 banger.
Also Edencraft have now gone away from pods on there bigger boat the Formula 233. something to think about?:o Adam.


Did ur pod look kike this one

http://www.edencraft.com.au/images/sports/gallery/ph_565sports14.jpg

adam sharkcat
13-01-2011, 05:20 PM
Did ur pod look kike this one

http://www.edencraft.com.au/images/sports/gallery/ph_565sports14.jpg
yep,same colour too,royal blue.great boat for its size.

wayno60
13-01-2011, 08:19 PM
Please use the picture below to follow along with this description.

Ultimately we want to figure out the distance labeled h. This value is the distance from the point of the keel to the top of the bracket deck as measured directly on the surface of the transom. Figuring this distance is complicated by the height adjustment for the motor required by the offset from the transom by the bracket and the transom angle.

The rule of thumb I used to get the ball rolling is: “The cavitation plate on the motor lower unit needs to be 1” higher than the keel for every foot of bracket set-back.” Keep in mind that this is a rule of thumb, different hull shapes may need slightly more or less adjustment of the cavitation plate location. This can be addressed later on by choosing different mounting holes on the outboard.

First we have to locate the cavitation plate relative to the keel, motor mounting holes and bracket mounting holes:

On the outboard, measure the distance x from the top of the cavitation plate to the center of the middle mounting hole on the outboard. From the distance x, subtract the distance y measured from the center of the mounting hole on the bracket to the top surface of the bracket deck.

If you add the height adjustment that you calculated from the rule of thumb you will end up with the distance z. The distance z is the location of the top of the bracket deck relative to the keel of the boat.

(x-y) + (offset height adjustment) = z

Because the transom is angled, you can’t directly transfer z to the transom. You have to take into account the angle, A. If you sort through the cobwebs in your skull that used to be your knowledge of high school geometry you will remember that the cosine of angle A is equal to z/h. If you rearrange the equation to solve for h you end up with:

h = z/cos A

There is a very easy way to measure the angle A that uses a standard carpenters square. Click on THIS LINK (http://www.dadmarine.com/angle2.htm) for instructions.

Once you have the value of h you can just slap a tape measure on the transom and mark off the spot where the top deck of your bracket needs to be located on the transom.

I got lucky and the rule of thumb worked out perfectly. Chances are once you get it all set up and sea trial the boat you will need to go up or down a bit using the motor mounting holes. The goal is to get the cavitation plate riding at or just above the surface of the water when the boat is on plane.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v412/G0Fish/BracketMeasurements.jpg
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