Submersible Trailer Lamps

[Jasinex]

Hey guys,

we have had our current set up of 'Submersible lights' for about 3 years now.. but now it seems everytime we go to use the boat the lights are working then not working etc... so its time to replace them.. i am after a set of submersible lights with a pre wired trailer lead that i can run down each side of the trailer... i am having trouble deciding / finding suitable lights... i dont really want to go to LED as keeping things simple is the key to boating.... if the led's fail... then its a whole unit... worst that can happen in incandescent lights is have to replace a $2 bulb.

so i am asking for some suggestions.. this is our current set of lights which have worked well... however the water sometimes splashes up inside them and its corroding the insides out of it now...
http://www.whitworths.com.au/products/90209_lg.jpg

http://www.whitworths.com.au/products/90209_lg.jpg


the sets i am looking at so far are the following

A)

http://www.whitworths.com.au/products/90205_lg.jpg
http://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?cat=138&item=90205&intAbsolutePage=1


B)

http://www.biasboating.com.au/images/PRODUCT/medium/2018.jpg
http://www.biasboating.com.au/p-2018-submersible-airlock-12v-trailer-light-pair.aspx


these are really all i can find...

i just want a fully sealed set that theoretically no water can get in... the airlock ones only work to a certain extent..

Thanks guys... looking forward to some good replies :)

Jason

[=Wookie=]

I find with the top airlock ones I just put a seam of hot glue around the edges of the insert to seal it up, if you need to replace the bulbs the hot glue comes away pretty easy.

[LoungeLizard]

I've had one similar to the second set you've shown. Worked OK but I did silicone the crap out of it :) I took it apart and siliconed every seal/gasket I could find and then some more where it's mounted on the trailer. Lasted for several years until I sold the boat.

[charleville]

If you are going to spend $50 on new lights, might you consider spending an extra $50 on LED ones?

I don't have LED ones myself but I suspect that they would be good.

I know what you mean about your existing lights. i have the same and they always seem to need attention. Mine are replacements and not that old either but with bumpy roads, it is not that hard for the bulbs to pop out of them.


.

[deckie]

After a prolonged period of battle with submersibles i am here to inform you that the war is over.
I lost.
No matter how much money you throw at them.
No matter which waterproof connector you are told will work.
No matter if you have no connections at all from light to plug.
No matter what brand.
No matter where you purchase them.

They are all absolute crap.

There is a very simple solution to the rip off that costs boaties a recurring average of $50 per annum....for rubbish that can cost $150-200 every yr or three.

You cannot dunk cheap electricals into saltwater twice an outing and expect joy for long. The damage is done whilst you are on the water...same as corrosion on your trailer and these stupid things are often just adding to the corrosion on your trailer with a residual current.

The simple solution u ask ? What is it ?

TAKE THEM OFF..OLD SCHOOL STYLE !!!

Dont be sucked into the rubbish and dont get caught up in a battle u cant win...trust in others that have fought the war and taken the pain...take the grand total of 10-20 seconds to take them off along with your tiedowns etc...save your frustration, save your money and save your trailer.

Not exactly difficult is it.

LED's are great for many things but when u truly think about it there is not one iota of benefit for them as trailer lights as opposed to bulbs. Not as tho u need to save current draw from your tow vehicle...not as tho u can submerge them either.

They are one of those things that are purely technology for the sake of it...and its costing.

Think of this as a community service announcement.

Deckie Out

[JB]

http://www.ledautolamps.com/

[Spaniard_King]

These are quite commonly used now. http://www.bla.com.au/index.php?fn=productView&dId=1&id=12822&eId=10&sId=e0007944e86a2c3f1941cfda18f785ab

[Geoff-]

I've used the ARK ones you listed under (A). They have allowed a small amount of moisture in that has fogged the inside of the enclosure, but I haven't taken then apart to see how corroded the inside is. The lights still work.

Likely when these ones die I will buy another set to replace them. These are about 9 months old and even if they last 1-2 years it's still easier than pulling the light bar off every launch and putting it on every retrieve. One less thing to worry about at the time. Cheaper to replace these ones than expensive LED lights.

The ARK ones do look solid in the way they are made, the problem with moisture may not be a design fault of the ARK as I had a join in the cable that got water into it - quite possible that some of that wicked down the cables and into the enclosure. The ARK has a plug that you feed individual wires through and it then clamps down like a cable gland, but if water is wicking through the inside of the wires then you're screwed anyway.

[Heath]

I've got the LEDautolamps ones.
Been on the boat for near on 6 years... no problems.

[bluefin59]

I have had narva LEDs for 3 years without a hint of trouble and they are fully sunk twice a week usually and have full length leads so no joins ....Matt

[ozscott]

I have always used submersalite and never looked back on two boats (well only looked back to check they were working...). They are excellent and very bright for non-led. Its funny I run German made lenses for my running lights and people think they are led from a distance cause they are so bright. Good quality fitting, lense etc are a good buy. From memory they are about $60 or so. Their water proof fitting is very good and they are very tough.

Cheers

[Spaniard_King]

I have had narva LEDs for 3 years without a hint of trouble and they are fully sunk twice a week usually and have full length leads so no joins ....Matt

LOL Bluefin I got the first one you posted ;) .. was gunna sink the boot in too ;D

[Ratman]

I would have to agree that using a light board with normal bulbs or leds was the way to go BUT some trailers require side lamps (ADR) and have connecting electric breakaway brakes connected to the one vehicle fitting.

In my case I need submersibles and have side lamps so a light board to out. Bugger.

Mick

[Toddy_again]

Jason...I have thought about replacing my standard lights(same as the first pic) with LEDs a couple of times and I have come to the conclusion that I will stick with what I have got.
My reasoning is that if an old lady tries to make her car go somewhere it physically wont at the shops and smashes a lens,or the boat cracks a lens loading it on in crap weather and current or one of the kids bikes hits and smashes the lens its only $26 to replace it.
I spray inox on mine every month or so and they are still going after nearly 5 years.
Hope that helps.

Toddy

[Mike Delisser]

Jason I had sub lights the same as the one in the top photo, I looked after them inc spraying with Inox and they were great for a couple of years then they started playing up. I'd fix them when I got home each time, then I'd hook up the trailer at 3am a week later and something else would be wrong with them. I waste valuable fishing time fixing the buggers. They're now replaced with a set of LEDs ($80 total cost) fully potted with resin and totally sealed. Havn't looked back, even put some sealed LED clearance lights on the guards for $10 each.

Not sure about the whole LED unit being stuffed if there's a prob, I noticed on a mate's trailer that 2 of the individual LED bulbs were out on one of his tail lights, as each unit was made up of at least 1 doz tiny bulbs it didn't make much difference at all. He's towed it from Briz to Wiepa and back once a year for the last 4 years so I guess thats not too bad.

[bluefin59]

Yeah S. I put Hrs instead ofyrs that's what you get posting with an itouch 3 hrs wouldn't make thm a credible option ha ha...... Matt

[wrxhoon]

I have LED fully sealed made by LED Autolamps ::http://www.ledautolamps-uk.com/productshow.php?catid=13&productid=53
I had them on my trailer for 3 years now, never any problems and they have 5 year warranty , I use the brand marker lights .
They can be bought from about $80 per set and the drivers side has a number plate light as well.

Before LED's I use to have the bell lights , still good but I use to spray them after every trip and the globes go frequently.

LED is the only way to go, in the years to come thats all you will be able to buy and they will be in every car and home . The old incadecent globe is dead for many reasons...

[ozscott]

You watched that Quantum show on the ABC too mate...?

Cheers

[wrxhoon]

You watched that Quantum show on the ABC too mate...?

Cheers

If that was refering to me, NO I haven't but I know the advantages of LED, like long life , no heat , all energy goes to light.
The incadecent globe has had its day thats for sure ..
I don't have one incadecent globe in my house that I built in 1987. I have a few LED's on trial right now and I'm hoping to convert to LED's in the near future.

If the LED's in my boat trailer fail , I will use bell type lights with LED globes in them .

I have Hella LED's in my twin Jetski trailer , had them for about 6 years now , trouble free. the reason I didn't go for Hellas in my boat trailer, the LED brand are less than half the price with 5 years warranty.

Many years ago I had removable lights my boat trailer ( like most people did then) but they are a pain in ass to remove everytime when you have clearence lights , Iwould't go back to them ever.

Others don't agree that LED's are worth it but each to their own ...

[Bowser]

The only choice is the solid state LED units. Never change a light bulb again!

[Fishnwell]

I've had three sets of LEDs in two years and wouldn't touch them again. With bulbs you either have earth or bulb problems - with LEDs once water gets in the circuit board they do all kinds of crazy things. which will take hours to figure out before cutting thenm off and repalcing. Agree with deckie to be absolutly sure, don't put the your lights in salt water!

[ozscott]

I have found the submersalite to be excellent. I just did a bulb - first time in 5 years. Just blown. No ingress of water. They are hard hard lenses too. http://www.whitworths.com.au/print_friendly.asp?strItem=90191

I like the fact that you can change a bulb...cant do that with LED and they still drop led's with age.

Cheers

[Strewth]

+1 for submersalite. Just replaced a set after 8 yrs of solid use.

[Jasinex]

wow.. so much useful information... i looked at the submers-A-lite as well... there a strange looking setup... is the red bit on the top a reflector or a lamp??

also.. we need a number plate light under the RHS lamp... do you think option A is the best replacement.... i still dont want to go to led as at 3am in the morning i can put in a new bulb in 2 mins or fiddle with the earth and away we go...

[ozscott]

Mate thats a reflector and you can put the number plate light on either side.

Cheers

[deckie]

Dont do it...they're evil !!

At least take em off.

[ozscott]

Dont do it...they're evil !!

At least take em off.


What - submersalites? Mate when they are fitted properly (I fitted a set to my Haines many years ago and about 5 years ago to the Vagabond's trailer) they DO NOT leak...cant say it any clearer than that. I just took off one of the covers to change my parker - first time. The light cover was hard to twist off cause it binds so well against the rubber seal, but no water ingress at all and I always dunk the trailers. This one I have been driving on lately and when I came back the other night it was nearly dark and driving on is easy with these baby's glowing under the water to show you where the rear outriggers are.

Cheers

[wrxhoon]

Mate thats a reflector and you can put the number plate light on either side.

Cheers

To comply with ADR you will need two number plate globes if you put them on the side of the number plate. Actualy its hard to comply with ADR if you have one globe even if the light is in the middle of the mumber plate .
have a look at your cars number plate light it has 2 globes.
I use LED lights that have number plate light on the bottom on each side of the rectangular light..

[Volcano]

These guys are brilliant.
http://www.brightlightautoparts.com/NEW_LED_LIGHT_COMBINATION_LAMPS.html
I've ordered nav lights, trailier lights, flood lights, interior lighting, under-gunwhale lighting, and mood lighting. Fast delivery and only a phone call away.

[White Pointer]

G'day,

I have Trojan LEDs on both boat trailers. Bought from REPCO.

Wiring harnesses are sealed from the lamps to the trailer plug. Both work fine.

Regards,

White Pointer

[Mike Delisser]

Actualy its hard to comply with ADR if you have one globe even if the light is in the middle of the mumber plate .
have a look at your cars number plate light it has 2 globes.
I use LED lights that have number plate light on the bottom on each side of the rectangular light..

In Qld our trailer number plate is just small enough to require only 1 light, any larger (like a car number plate) it would require 2 lights, that what I was told a couple of years ago by Q/Trans when I was building a trailer.
Cheers

[Jasinex]

currently its on the drivers side... it will stay there.. but just wondering if there is a required side for it?

[deckie]

I've had three sets of LEDs in two years and wouldn't touch them again. With bulbs you either have earth or bulb problems - with LEDs once water gets in the circuit board they do all kinds of crazy things. which will take hours to figure out before cutting thenm off and repalcing. Agree with deckie to be absolutly sure, don't put the your lights in salt water!
Amen Brother.

I have fought the eternal war against supposedly submersibles and come to a few conclusions.

1. When placing electrical components into salt water they have a strange habit of f'king up. No idea why.
2. Gal steel trailers left for hours with salt water and electrical components attached have a strange habit of corroding faster. No idea why.
3. When just one little problem strikes u gotta throw the whole lot out.
4. Who the hell cares if they draw 0.5A or 1.5A when its off the vehicles battery and only drawing current whilst a 50-100A alternator is working.
5. Water...it eventually finds a way in no matter what u do. No idea why.
6. For a $150 item i expect a hellova lot more than "been 3 yrs trouble free now , fingers crossed".
7. General life expectency no matter how vigilant you are with connections is anywhere between 5minutes and 3 yrs if used frequently or not. You may get lucky in which case you tend to tell everyone they must be an idiot and didnt connect/w/proof them properly....or tell people they must have a continuous cable run..or better still need an underground irrigation connector.
8. Who the hell cares if they are a fraction brighter ?. They are 6m+ behind me facing the other way...and if someone is gonna ram up your arse they're gonna do it anyway no matter if they are 0.456 lumen brighter or some crap anyway.
9. Strangely enough by the time i've taken off the tiedowns off, put some gear onboard, double checked everything, taken the donk off the support, etc etc there's every chance my mate has found the approximately 15-20 seconds it takes to remove 2 little lights and shove em in the boot.
10. If i'm THAT bloody lazy that i cant take em off..then i really need to start using tiedowns and safety chains that automatically attach themselves with some sort of remote control.
11. To use new technology and pay triple the price there really needs to be at least a single benefit to it.
12. Its really not that difficult to keep a cpl of spare bulbs in the glovebox or remove a set of LED lights.
13. I;m not a bloody woman so i dont give a rats how "pretty" they look.


Yeah i fought the war and lost. 3 sets in 5 yrs including a spanking new set of "trojans" which at least lasted a bit longer than average.

Yes i went to school too...so i aint totally stupid and have a rough idea that i need to keep water out of them with w/proof connectors, w/proof sheathing, silicon and anything else. All it does is delay the inevitable.

Dont do it !!! Dont become a casualty like me...blubbering away on my favorite website trying to warn people from walking into the minefield ;D. By all means purchase LED's ...just take the bloody things off before dunking the trailer...it truly isnt that difficult and men have survived centuries of trailerboating doing just that. In fact i saw a picture on the tv of an ancient chinese book showing a man bending down undoing some trailer lights and putting them in the back of a rickshaw.

The crowning glory came when last at my trailerguy for some new springs when i spotted a shiney new Haines that couldnt be more than 6 mths old...."Nice rig" i said "whats the problem ?" "Those stupid lights" was the answer "I fix more of these things than anything else"

They're evil i tell ya !!!
As you were
Whinge over ;D
Deckie Out